How to make a wooden tape measure _ I Like To Make Stuff
# DIY Custom Tape Measure: A Step-by-Step Guide
by Bob
Hey everyone! I’m Bob, and today I want to show you how to make something really cool—a custom tape measure. I’ve always been into woodworking and DIY projects, so I decided to take a basic, cheap tape measure and turn it into something that’s both functional and stylish. Let me walk you through the entire process step by step.
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## Step 1: Starting with a Cheap Tape Measure
I began my project by picking up a really affordable tape measure from the home center. It wasn’t anything fancy—it was just the kind you can find for a few bucks. The idea was to take it apart and rebuild it into something better.
First, I removed the two screws that hold the casing together. Be careful here because the tape is under tension due to the spring inside. If you’re not cautious, the tape might pop out when you remove the casing. To prevent this, I wrapped the exposed part of the tape in blue painter’s tape. This kept it secure and made handling it much easier.
Next, I used the opposite side of the original shell as a template to trace an outline on a piece of wood. This gave me the exact shape I needed for my new custom casing.
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## Step 2: Cutting the Wood
Once I had the outline traced, I cut out the shape using a band saw. After that, I measured and calculated the total thickness I wanted the final product to be. I decided to resaw the piece down to its final thickness on my table saw.
With the wood now at the desired thickness, I cut it in half lengthwise. Each half would serve as one side of the tape measure casing—front and back.
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## Step 3: Preparing the Edges
On the inside of each wooden piece, I drew a line around the outside edge. This gave me a clear reference point for where to cut and where not to. The goal was to create a clean shell that would house the tape measure mechanism.
I picked up an Inmills End Mill (not a drill bit—it’s designed for cutting metal and can be used on wood too). I mounted one of the wooden pieces in my vice and carefully routed out the area where the pocket for the tape would go using a Dremel tool with the End Mill attachment.
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## Step 4: Fine-Tuning the Pocket
Manual routing with the Dremel created a bit of a messy surface, so I cleaned up the edges with a chisel. However, I realized the pocket wasn’t deep enough. To fix this, I roughed out the other half of the casing in the same way but didn’t cut all the way through.
I then moved the bit from the Dremel to my drill press, setting it at a high RPM. By carefully moving the piece under the end mill, I was able to achieve a much flatter and cleaner surface on the bottom of the pocket. This step mimicked how CNC machines work, which is pretty cool!
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## Step 5: Finalizing the Casing
After cutting out the pocket for the tape, I lined up the two halves of the casing and drew a reference line to cut a slot for the tape to fit through. Using a cutoff wheel, I carefully made this slot, ensuring it wasn’t too large.
I also cut a small slot in the post left at the center of each piece—this is where the spring would lock into place later.
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## Step 6: Rebuilding the Tape Mechanism
Next, I removed the tape from the spring and gently pulled it out. I set the spring aside and carefully placed the tape into the newly cut slot in the casing.
I held the tape in place and fitted the two pieces of the casing together to ensure everything fit correctly and that the tape could still move freely. Once I was satisfied with the fit, I used a screwdriver to hold it down while I added some CA glue around the outside edges.
Unfortunately, I forgot to get a clamp for the CA glue, so I had to let it dry as is. After some time, the casing was ready!
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## Step 7: Sanding and Finishing
I took the finished casing to a belt sander to smooth out the edges and flatten the two faces that would be glued together. This step was crucial for ensuring there were no gaps between the pieces.
Once the outside was smooth, I moved on to an orbital sander to get a finer finish on the faces. Finally, I used a sanding block to achieve a polished look.
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## Step 8: Applying the Finish
To protect and beautify the wood, I applied a couple of coats of tung oil finish. This brought out the natural grain of the wood and gave it that classic, timeless appearance.
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## The Final Product
I’m really happy with how this turned out! It’s way cooler than the original tape measure I started with. Plus, it’s smaller—just 10 feet instead of my usual 6-foot one—and includes a little eyelet on the back so I can hang it on my keys.
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## Reflections and Next Steps
This project taught me a lot. While I used a combination of hand tools like the Dremel and drill press, I realized that CNC machines could make this process much faster and more precise. If you have access to one, you could even mass-produce these or add custom engravings to the casing.
If you don’t have a CNC, don’t worry—you can still achieve great results with basic woodworking tools like chisels, hammers, and sanders. It just requires some patience and attention to detail.
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## Final Thoughts
Overall, this was a fun and rewarding project. I love how it turned out, and I’d love to hear your thoughts! Did you find the tutorial helpful? Have you tried anything like this before? Let me know in the comments below or check out my website, [I Like Stuff](https://ilikethings.com), where I share more DIY projects and woodworking tips.
Thanks for watching (or reading!), and I’ll see you next time!