**Borx Sauce: Building the Ultimate Exhaust System**

In this video, we're going to take a look at Borx Sauce's exhaust system and how it can enhance your car's performance and sound. Our team will be putting together an exhaust system that meets their high standards for quality and customization.

We begin by looking at each system manufactured in Johnson City, Tennessee, using the highest quality stainless steel. With various tips, finishes, and customization options available, our team works closely with Boer to tailor an exhaust system that best fits your unique style and sound preferences. Whether you want a bold performance sound or a more subtle tone, Borx Sauce has got you covered.

To push the limits of what's possible, we'll be installing a 2JZ swap in an E36, which was previously our most powerful car. This will not only increase horsepower but also introduce new challenges and opportunities for growth. With a target of reaching at least 550 horsepower, we're excited to see how this setup performs.

We strap on the exhaust system and get ready to hit the track, with Danny suggesting we start with 100 octane fuel. As we take our first runs, the numbers begin to rise, and the sound is nothing short of incredible. We manage a respectable 575 horsepower on our final run, leaving us hopeful that there's still room for improvement.

With the exhaust system now complete, it's time to hit the track in our reborn E36. The power boost from the 2JZ swap is undeniable, and we're eager to see how this new setup will perform against our previous high-performance car. As we take our first lap around the track, we notice a significant difference in feel and sound.

The E36 is now our highest horsepower car, thanks to the Borx Sauce exhaust system. We're excited to see how it stacks up against our other powerful cars, but for now, this 2JZ-powered beauty takes center stage. With its incredible sound and impressive power output, we can't wait to get back behind the wheel and continue pushing the limits of what's possible.

As we take a break from racing, we can't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to work with Borx Sauce and their exceptional products. From high-performance exhaust systems to top-tier tuning solutions, they're dedicated to helping us achieve our goals and exceed expectations.

Let's watch some steezy drift footage of the E36 as we continue to fine-tune this beast. With its newfound power and style, this car is sure to turn heads on the track and off.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enthis is our E36 this is one of my favorite cars we've ever built here at dut but unfortunately this little Fella's seen better days ever since then it's had an m52 sized hole right in its heart but today we're going to fix that we're doing open heart surgery and while we're at it we're going to build the highest horsepower car we've ever built here at donut what the panicking the goal is 500 horsepower and we've got just the engine to do it okay class wake up wake up everybody listen up today we're learning about how to make Power I'm sure you guys have all been wondering how to make more power in your project car there are three main ways you make more power up first we have turbocharging the way a Turbocharger works is forced induction and there's really two main forms of forced induction turbocharging and supercharging so supercharging is very similar to turbocharging we're forcing more air into the engine but in this case we're not using the exhaust to do it we're using the spinning of the engine okay let's move on to the last form of making more power chemical charging or nitrous oxide the way this works is you put it into your engine the tank here is full of nitrous oxide it's pressurized and you run a line from the bottle to your engine and at a certain temperature that nitrous oxide breaks into its parts and basically becomes oxygen now that we've got that down we're going to move on to what we're going to be doing which is known as an engine swap now if you're looking to add a Turbocharger to your existing engine that can come with a lot of complications there's a lot of modifying that'll need to be done and if it's not a car that is commonly turbocharged you're going to have to DIY a lot of stuff so sometimes it makes more sense to just do a whole dang engine swap so that's what we're going to do we're going to take the 2JZ a very known reliable engine and put it in our car so we don't need to worry about adding a Turbocharger to this engine to make more power we just need to worry about getting this engine into our car so that we can make more power whatever man I don't need a diagram to have someone tell me what a 2J is do you even know what a 2J stands for probably not ah this is our 2JZ and if it looks familiar that's cuz we've had this engine on this channel before Jerry and I tore this 2JZ down to look at what makes the 2JZ so robust and reliable once we took this engine apart for that episode we had it rebuilt by Dave over at six pin everything in this engine is built for longevity and can handle a lot of performance so I'm very excited to get this thing into the E36 and get that thing ripping again so there's only a few things we really need to do we got to get the engine ready for the car we got to get the car ready for the engine and then we got to marry them together it's only three steps this should take no time all right so we're just taking some stuff out of the engine bay that doesn't need to be here anymore uh like some of the air conditioning stuff just random odds and ends clean this thing up give our 2JZ a nice tidy new home so now I got it soaking in some Degreaser now we're about to go hose it off clean this thing up before we put that nice new engine in so while that dries I'm going to start to get the engine ready for the car first thing I'm going to do is work on getting our new fuel rail and fuel injectors installed which means taking off the stock throttle body removing some of these odds and ends to get down to the fuel rail pop that sucker out put the new stuff on easy we're going to kind of divide and conquer so I'm going to try to get the engine ready and he's got a fuel pump that's going to go into the car to supply this thing with all the juice it needs um and then okay I was going to say it's about time to throw it in but there's a lot that needs to happen before we're ready for that so we've got to upgrade our fuel pump and with that I've got one from dworks here it flows 420 lph this car came with a straight 6 naturally aspirated this is going to be a straight six turbocharge and it's just going to be begging for fuel so this one's going to just pump more fuel oh man it is dirty absolute perfection that was really easy so let's hope that Trend continues so we got the fuel pump out uh this is what the fuel pump is sub looks like it's relatively easy install which is great we've got our dishw works pump and rum actually makes this really cool adapter that slides over clamps down and you can just slip it in and it clicks into the Factory location other than that just crimp these wires on click it all back together and put it in and there you go there you go that's a complete unit pretty cool it's all just going to fit in there and it's going to be enough fuel to pump into our 2J leave it to the Germans to over engineer it so let's drop it inito so we got the throttle body out of our 2J and these guys are unique they're drive by wire and Drive by cable and that sucks all I want is drive by cable cuz I know that's what's going to work the whole time so let's get it deleted so literally all we're going to do is take these gears out because we don't need them anymore then we're going to put this wedge into the throttle body to fill up the dead zone and you're all good it's that easy now you have a drive by cable 2J okay so I got to pop these uh crank case vent tube things out uh and plug them they come with the kit the little plugs so I just got to wrench these out a little bit break them free like that and give them a little bit of Leverage all right with those plugs in place I can drop the mounting plate in and then the coil packs in and uh then we'll be good to go and just like that we've got a pretty trick ignition system installs done we've got R35 GDI coil packs on this 2JZ I just threw the throttle body back on now I'm going to pull out these crank case Vents and uh replace them with radiums press in crank case vents just to prepare for our catch can setup uh they're trick little pieces that basically pop into these Factory ports and give us a lines out so we can run those right to our catch can so I just got to yank these out those fittings are in the freezer shrinking down so the pop in a little easier dessert while these are frozen so they're shrunk as small as they can be it's still a press fit so really you need to be able to tap these in with a hammer and uh I don't have much Hammer space with the intake manifold here so got to take it off okay and just like that we got some a an10 fittings coming out of the valve covers those will go to our catch can it's engine's looking cooler by the minute okay up next I'm going to start working on actually mounting our rtech exhaust manifold and Turbo from Garrett it's got two v-bands one for the turbo Garrett 3576 uh with which should flow plenty of air for our power numbers and Beyond and what's really nice about this manifold is that it comes with a pre-made heat shield for the thing he's cold here you go little buddy so you want to keep heat where it's supposed to be and not everywhere else so this will help us do that okay now I'm going to throw on our wastegate this is a turbo smart uh 45 mm uh vband mounts in and out so it goes right on the top here on this manifold and we can clock it around however makes the most sense when we get that far bar eventually this dump tube from the wastegate is going to go out the hood which is pretty cool I'm going to put that on there then I'll put the turbo on then we can start thinking about routing oil and coolant to the turbo and uh coolant to the wastegate everybody got sound effects so to help with some of the cooling we're going to go ahead and use an external oil cooler for that we're going to need this block adapter to be put onto the motor and take off the old one easy work I'm still working on the engine I'm about ready to install this new radium fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator all right so it's time to put the injectors on these are from disw works these are 2200 CC injectors which is more than enough fuel going to cram this in the radium fuel rail and then put that on the motor over there and the reason you're going to want more fuel is because we're going to be cramming more air and more air need more fuel more fuel more power that was easy I think I just finished the last coolant line for the turbo perfect so we just got to get that drain extender and we're in business all right it is finally time to get the engine off the stand onto the ground and get the transmission and the clutch and flywheel installed uh for that we're going to be using the BMW ZF transmission that was already in the car we've got a cool Collins adapter kit to mate the 2JZ to the BMW transmission so in case you're wondering an adapter plate does exactly what it says it does you can bolt to an engine and a transmission that don't naturally match up and at this point they make adapter plates like these for pretty much every popular combo obviously the 2JZ is a hugely popular engine and the BMW ZF is also very popular in its own right another nice feature of the Collins adapter kit is that it does away with the factory starter mounting bolts which go inside the transmission so you have to take the transmission off to take the starter off on the 2JZ which is insane so the Collins adapter plate comes with these studs so you get to replace those bolts with studs and you just have to drill out the threads on your 2JZ starter and you can Chuck it on those studs and use some nuts take your starter out whenever you damn well please all right so we've knocked in the pilot bushing adapter and now we're putting on the flywheel all this is supplied by Collins and then this will basically be the last bit of the column's kit then it's up to us to put a clutch on this thing and our transmission and a nice dut yellow pressure plate this is basically the spring that engages the clutch to the flywheel when you hit your throwout bearing flips these Springs down and releases so now this just has to go on there the first things I need to do is just clean off this friction surface get all the oils off of it and then we can throw it on there bolt it down and then our clutch setup is complete well that's a problem no yep you're lying no I'm not this is the wrong pressure plate no it Ain yes it is okay so somehow we've got the wrong size pressure plate uh which is going to make installing it of a problem uh okay back to the drawing board let's see what we got and what we actually need so got this and the pressure plate I guess I should clean this first okay so in front of me I've got a BMW ZF 5-speed transmission and this is the transmission that we put in the E36 when we manual swapped it forever ago this just happens to be a pretty easy to acquire pretty small pretty light and pretty strong manual transmission so people use these in a lot of things that aren't necessarily BMWs just what the doctor ordered it's everything we need and we already had it now I just got to put it together so throwout bearings about to go in little dab of Grease dab of Grease pop her on there it's often quite annoying trying to get a transmission on the back of the engine uh especially if you're doing it by yourself um so I'm going to do a little trick here that should should make things a lot easier I've just got a couple random bolts that are the same thread pitch and diameter as the bell housing bolts so I'm going to cut the heads off of them so that the transmission can slip right over them uh and use them as dowels and this should make thrown a transmission on very easy okay now with those there now with those there we can just slip the transmission on and uh jiggle the output shaft a little bit to move the input shaft get our splines to line up and the sucker should slide right on okay engine transmission ready for car just like that it's time for step three marriage uh so right now we've got the car jacked up a little bit so we can see underneath because we still have the uh transmission mount crossmember in place on the car if we can do it with the crossmember in place great if not it's got to come out it's just so damn close right here and the problem is what it's super close to is very sharp yeah it's that perfect like puncture Zone oh good um I could see grinding those off I could also see just dropping the subframe here do you want to just Yank on it with this while I push on it from there Heber drop the subr all right okay we have now dropped the subframe about an inch to give us some more room to get the oil pan over it uh should be all we need hopefully push in Heber looking good my engine mount is pretty well lined up a so close I'm right there ah all right you don't have to ham it up over there do that what the are you panicking I was kind of bullet more back okay and we are resting in the car okay the engine's in there now we just got to mount it and stuff it's a Monumental moment in any engine swap when you get to put the crane away and we're at that point the engine is in the car the engine mounts are bolted down he's finishing up right now and the trans Miss mounts are in and tight so now it's on to all the rest of the stuff but first I'm putting the crane away okay I've got the radiator and intercooler Loosely mounted so up next I'm going to be working on mounting the oil cooler right in front of the intercooler while I'm doing that heber's working on installing a power steering kit from Chase Bay uh it's got a nice Reservoir a nice cooler uh it should clean up the engine bay a little bit and give us good power steering which will be important okay so I'm bending up some brackets to mount our oil cooler uh basically off of the intercooler just with some random 1-in bar I've got laying around just some scraps uh there are certainly cleaner ways to do this but this is what we got laying around and I'm in a bit of a hurry so I'm just going to bend these and uh we should be able to mount the oil cooler fairly sturdily well the oil cooler is nicely mounted to the intercooler but the intercooler leaves a bit to be desired it'll tighten up with fittings on it and tubes and stuff all right most of the time when you're switching over to uh Standalone ECU you'll often have to add an intake air temp sensor depending on what your car already has and what the ECU wants to use uh so I need to add a bung to our charge piping near the throttle body for an intake air temp sensor and that lets the ECU know what temperature the air coming into the engine actually is so you want to put it pretty close to the throttle body so I'm doing that and that's one of the sensors that the ECU uses to know what's going on in the engine and make sure that the engine's safe and making as much power as it's supposed to okay the bung is on there it's not exactly perfect or pretty but it is exactly on there and that's really what I was after so this is done all right we're back at I just got some new shifter bushings so I'm about ready to install the shifter carrier then I can install the shifter there go my new bushings dri line ink came out yesterday and measured for our drive shaft so they're busy making us a drive shaft we are waiting on a handful of odds and ends to tie up a bunch of loose ends but I think we're going to be able to make some pretty serious progress today which is good cuz we got a lot of progress to make uh we have the wiring harness pretty much totally installed on the engine so now I got to feed it through the firewall into the cab and install our ECU okay so now we're inside the car and I'm working on mounting our Digital dash uh from link to goes with our ECU plugs and plays with the ECU and shows us all of the engine vitals this is basically an allinone gauge like allinone pretty much everything that the ECU can see you can see through this so you can monitor all of your engine vitals your oil pressure temperature fuel pressure temperatures of everything okay so I whipped up some quick brackets to mount the digital dash and here so assuming everything fits should be a pretty easy install see if we can get it done okay so our Digital dash is mounted I haven't fully tightened everything down but the mounting is done and it fits and it looks pretty good so I'm happy with that now we got to do the less fun Parts which is the wires the digital dash will give us a view of pretty much any parameter we want with the engine but the real star of the show is the ECU so an ECU gives you control over the ignition time over you know your fuel injectors and how big they can be and everything going on under the hood and those are the things that determine how much power an engine makes so with the control you get from an ECU you can tune that sucker up or some smart guy on a dyo can and make you as much power as the parts you have will allow and I can't wait to see north of 500 all right so right now I'm working on installing our catch can from radium um I am going to try to make a little panel to mount off of these existing brackets and uh I think it should just clear our intercooler tubing and everything else looking at this engine bay you might think hey over there's a really good spot there's plenty of room right over there and I was tempted to put it there but generally speaking when you're mounting a catch can you want to mount it on the intake side of the engine just to be as far away as possible from the hot exhaust the turbo uh the manifold everything like that because the vapors that are in here are air and a little bit of fuel and oil and things that are flammable so if you ever spring a leak from your catch can you don't want it to leak onto your super hot exhaust uh lest you catch on fire so I'm going to do a little extra work and put it over here just to be safe yeah okay break these edges a little bit and we'll install this piece of sh okay catch cans mounted pretty pretty quick and easy just use some uh old no longer used I hope uh stock brackets hopefully this doesn't get in the way of anything else that we got to do now we got to measure some lines order some materials to make some lines and then make a bunch of lines Jimmy said he would do it I look I don't know anything about no goddamn lines I don't know you know no goddamn 2J and a goddamn BMW dude it's sa Jimmy and job huh okay we are getting close to starting this thing we've got a lot of stuff done buttoning up some little stuff I'm wiring up uh the radiator fan and the oil cooler fan at the moment I've got some random electrical things just kind of buttoning things up again it's all the Loose Ends that we're trying to tackle right now honestly we should be able to at least key it on and see if something fries yep yeah I think we might get to turn a key today we just got to button a bunch of stuff up did you get the shifter in halfway in okay maybe I'll finish it okay our drive shaft is here and it is installed uh Drive Line Inc whipped this up really quick looks real nice should transmit all the power from the transmission to the diff which is what a drive shaft does so that's great Adam is currently working on our chassis Mount shifter uh that just showed up today looks like a really nice bit of Kit and it should feel great on once it's all installed we've got it mounted to the chassis but now we've got to shorten our selector Rod the thing that the bottom of the shifter connects to the transmission via uh that needs to be shorter now so we'll have to cut it up take a little piece out of it weld it back together no big deal that should feel great oh baby oh hey thanks man dude what's going on oh I have no idea uh no we're close we're close there's a lot of stuff going on but we are very close uh we've got some coolant stuff left to tie up but let's leave that to the side for now uh we're very close to first fire up which I think we'll do without any Coolin in it it's got oil so Adam's in there playing with the ECU trying to get it fired up load up the base map um I think really uh all the wiring is uh in a place where it can start it should be startable right now I'm just kind of coming to terms with that as I'm saying that to you which is always sort of a nerve-wracking time just running through all the things you may not have done or tightened yeah um so I should probably give everything at once over and uh then I think we'll try to fire this thing up soon we do need to get some fuel it's really hard to see this gauge uh do you want to are you sure it's not like priming at all uh I can't hear but let's check I feel like you should be able to here but I can see the gauge now yeah nothing okay so it seems like we don't have spark I could smell a little fuel we've got fuel pressure so reasonable to think that we do have fuel uh we definitely have air I believe we have compression but I don't think we have spark no questions yeah so what we're going to do right now uh to find out whether or not we have spark is a very simple test that you can do on most cars uh we're just taking uh the coil pack off cylinder 1 we're going to leave it plugged in we've got a spare spark plug that Nolan is currently putting into the coil pack then we'll ground out the threads of the spark plug somewhere in the engine bay and then Adam will crank it and if we do have spark that plug will be sparking there's a lot of volts running through coil packs it's one of the few spots on a car that can really zap you um so don't hold it yeah I mean you can do it but when you get bit by it you don't like it nay sparkk no spark but I smell fuel okay well sometimes projects just don't run and that's when you give up so that's going to do it for us uh thanks for watching all right so we tested it the oldfashioned way which is cranking the motor over but what's really cool about linky suu or any aftermarket a lot of them you can just go into the computer itself self and then just tell it to spark tell it to Prime fuel all that without having to keep turning that over and messing up the starter itself so we've got spark but now we got to figure out why the computer is not telling it to spark when we want it to spark this thing is smart but sometimes too smart I'm telling you you just got to check the box that says I need spark to be fair I haven't checked that box so it's probably on me so right now I'm trying to get link to remote in to see if if all the parameters we have set are correct we're having a little bit of problems starting the motor but I'm pretty sure it's just a couple clicks away and that's really it cuz the wiring is good um and everything else looks good so let's see did you already set the base fuel pressure assuming um no I have no idea what it should be at you able to crack let's see what happens you know woo W so our ignition issue just ended up being a setting that we had set wrong in the uh ECU software which is a pretty simple fix now the car runs so all we have to do is get an exhaust made over at borla put some fluids in this thing and take it to the dyno to see if this is actually the highest horsepower car we've ever built or just a bunch of money pretty poorly spent all right so while the E36 is getting a new exhaust from today sponsor borla we figured it'd be fun to check out a car built by our friend and professional Drifter Matt Field Matt what is this so this is my demo car it's basically a stock vet with a Texas Speed engine and sequential gearbox and a Bor attack system is there any chance that uh maybe we could drive it a little have at it boys no one let's get in before he changes his mind for almost 50 years borla has been the go-to exhaust for all drivers around the world woohoo the patented Technologies give you perf sound balance and Cutting Edge performance with no compromises it's loud as hell on the track but quiet and refined at home plus there's no annoying drone that's huge each system is manufactured in Johnson City Tennessee using the highest quality stainless steel with many different tips finishes and other customization options Boer helps tailor an exhaust system that best fits your Unique Style and sound so if you want St art performance reliability and the best damn sound out of your car get a borx sauce today to learn more click the link below all right we are getting this thing strapped to the dyo because we're going to try to make this our highest horse power car Danny said that we should probably go with 100 octane we're going to Chuck it in there and see what it makes I'm really hoping for 550 or 600 Danny thoughts I'd like to see 600 600 is what he says so let's see if that's what we get all right so we got a couple runs in honestly I'm getting really really excited the numbers are going up and this thing sounds awesome so still going to hit some keys on the keyboard and hopefully we get that 600 Mark if not 550 I'd be pretty happy with but honestly the sound this thing makes just makes me smile all right so we just did one of our final runs and this thing sounds so sick we hit 575 but I think there's a little bit more room super happy with that it is really healthy it sounds good so there it is 603 highest horsepower donut time to hit the track let's go okay first time out in the reborn E36 see how she feels it's got three times the power it used to have so it's going to feel a little different sounds cool a okay definitely got more power so I guess I'm warmed up let's take it to the track see how it does all right so we've got the 2J in the E36 is now now our highest horsepower car oh boy de High car used to be our highest horsepower car our most powerful car in our Fleet now we're going to see how they stack up if the 2J swap was worth it I think so but man it's just so cool to see two of our favorite cars out here uh looks like Adam is having some issues already what the I think I literally dropped the transmission back there we just can't win but the 2J is doing great go Zach I got to fix this dude that was sick as hell good it sounds good so uh the transmission has fallen out of hey there's definitely something under the car we're going to go help it's really hot we got to rescue you what happened drop sh uh I think the transmission fell out I don't know if that's actually what happened but the whole shifter is like oh no the shifter broke huh I think the shifter broke yeah there's something just dangling down there just can't win 2J sounded sick though when it drove away into the sunset in classic donut fashion we came out here to do one thing but have opened a completely different can of worms now let's watch some steezy drift footage of the E36 maybe Jo's out on track in the E36 sounds really good we go go heyy hey oh that yeah that doesn't sound good it got hot yeah it's hot it's hot no we got to pull in and cool down we're like extremely hot okay copy pull in pulling all right we got half a lap in is still our highest horsepower car for now it still is he still made the power and it made all the noises we'll fix it and break it again sounds good sounds good well holy crap the E36 lives again and this time it's got a 2JZ in its face and not only did we break the 500 horsepower Mark but we also broke the 600 horsepower mark this car is an absolute handful it's got over three times the power it had before and I'm having so much fun driving it I got a little bit of learning to do but this is going to be a fun way to learn so thank you guys for watching this build I hope you had as much fun watching it as I had doing it now I've got some tires left to burn where' I put the key can we review the tape where did I throw the key did I throw itthis is our E36 this is one of my favorite cars we've ever built here at dut but unfortunately this little Fella's seen better days ever since then it's had an m52 sized hole right in its heart but today we're going to fix that we're doing open heart surgery and while we're at it we're going to build the highest horsepower car we've ever built here at donut what the panicking the goal is 500 horsepower and we've got just the engine to do it okay class wake up wake up everybody listen up today we're learning about how to make Power I'm sure you guys have all been wondering how to make more power in your project car there are three main ways you make more power up first we have turbocharging the way a Turbocharger works is forced induction and there's really two main forms of forced induction turbocharging and supercharging so supercharging is very similar to turbocharging we're forcing more air into the engine but in this case we're not using the exhaust to do it we're using the spinning of the engine okay let's move on to the last form of making more power chemical charging or nitrous oxide the way this works is you put it into your engine the tank here is full of nitrous oxide it's pressurized and you run a line from the bottle to your engine and at a certain temperature that nitrous oxide breaks into its parts and basically becomes oxygen now that we've got that down we're going to move on to what we're going to be doing which is known as an engine swap now if you're looking to add a Turbocharger to your existing engine that can come with a lot of complications there's a lot of modifying that'll need to be done and if it's not a car that is commonly turbocharged you're going to have to DIY a lot of stuff so sometimes it makes more sense to just do a whole dang engine swap so that's what we're going to do we're going to take the 2JZ a very known reliable engine and put it in our car so we don't need to worry about adding a Turbocharger to this engine to make more power we just need to worry about getting this engine into our car so that we can make more power whatever man I don't need a diagram to have someone tell me what a 2J is do you even know what a 2J stands for probably not ah this is our 2JZ and if it looks familiar that's cuz we've had this engine on this channel before Jerry and I tore this 2JZ down to look at what makes the 2JZ so robust and reliable once we took this engine apart for that episode we had it rebuilt by Dave over at six pin everything in this engine is built for longevity and can handle a lot of performance so I'm very excited to get this thing into the E36 and get that thing ripping again so there's only a few things we really need to do we got to get the engine ready for the car we got to get the car ready for the engine and then we got to marry them together it's only three steps this should take no time all right so we're just taking some stuff out of the engine bay that doesn't need to be here anymore uh like some of the air conditioning stuff just random odds and ends clean this thing up give our 2JZ a nice tidy new home so now I got it soaking in some Degreaser now we're about to go hose it off clean this thing up before we put that nice new engine in so while that dries I'm going to start to get the engine ready for the car first thing I'm going to do is work on getting our new fuel rail and fuel injectors installed which means taking off the stock throttle body removing some of these odds and ends to get down to the fuel rail pop that sucker out put the new stuff on easy we're going to kind of divide and conquer so I'm going to try to get the engine ready and he's got a fuel pump that's going to go into the car to supply this thing with all the juice it needs um and then okay I was going to say it's about time to throw it in but there's a lot that needs to happen before we're ready for that so we've got to upgrade our fuel pump and with that I've got one from dworks here it flows 420 lph this car came with a straight 6 naturally aspirated this is going to be a straight six turbocharge and it's just going to be begging for fuel so this one's going to just pump more fuel oh man it is dirty absolute perfection that was really easy so let's hope that Trend continues so we got the fuel pump out uh this is what the fuel pump is sub looks like it's relatively easy install which is great we've got our dishw works pump and rum actually makes this really cool adapter that slides over clamps down and you can just slip it in and it clicks into the Factory location other than that just crimp these wires on click it all back together and put it in and there you go there you go that's a complete unit pretty cool it's all just going to fit in there and it's going to be enough fuel to pump into our 2J leave it to the Germans to over engineer it so let's drop it inito so we got the throttle body out of our 2J and these guys are unique they're drive by wire and Drive by cable and that sucks all I want is drive by cable cuz I know that's what's going to work the whole time so let's get it deleted so literally all we're going to do is take these gears out because we don't need them anymore then we're going to put this wedge into the throttle body to fill up the dead zone and you're all good it's that easy now you have a drive by cable 2J okay so I got to pop these uh crank case vent tube things out uh and plug them they come with the kit the little plugs so I just got to wrench these out a little bit break them free like that and give them a little bit of Leverage all right with those plugs in place I can drop the mounting plate in and then the coil packs in and uh then we'll be good to go and just like that we've got a pretty trick ignition system installs done we've got R35 GDI coil packs on this 2JZ I just threw the throttle body back on now I'm going to pull out these crank case Vents and uh replace them with radiums press in crank case vents just to prepare for our catch can setup uh they're trick little pieces that basically pop into these Factory ports and give us a lines out so we can run those right to our catch can so I just got to yank these out those fittings are in the freezer shrinking down so the pop in a little easier dessert while these are frozen so they're shrunk as small as they can be it's still a press fit so really you need to be able to tap these in with a hammer and uh I don't have much Hammer space with the intake manifold here so got to take it off okay and just like that we got some a an10 fittings coming out of the valve covers those will go to our catch can it's engine's looking cooler by the minute okay up next I'm going to start working on actually mounting our rtech exhaust manifold and Turbo from Garrett it's got two v-bands one for the turbo Garrett 3576 uh with which should flow plenty of air for our power numbers and Beyond and what's really nice about this manifold is that it comes with a pre-made heat shield for the thing he's cold here you go little buddy so you want to keep heat where it's supposed to be and not everywhere else so this will help us do that okay now I'm going to throw on our wastegate this is a turbo smart uh 45 mm uh vband mounts in and out so it goes right on the top here on this manifold and we can clock it around however makes the most sense when we get that far bar eventually this dump tube from the wastegate is going to go out the hood which is pretty cool I'm going to put that on there then I'll put the turbo on then we can start thinking about routing oil and coolant to the turbo and uh coolant to the wastegate everybody got sound effects so to help with some of the cooling we're going to go ahead and use an external oil cooler for that we're going to need this block adapter to be put onto the motor and take off the old one easy work I'm still working on the engine I'm about ready to install this new radium fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator all right so it's time to put the injectors on these are from disw works these are 2200 CC injectors which is more than enough fuel going to cram this in the radium fuel rail and then put that on the motor over there and the reason you're going to want more fuel is because we're going to be cramming more air and more air need more fuel more fuel more power that was easy I think I just finished the last coolant line for the turbo perfect so we just got to get that drain extender and we're in business all right it is finally time to get the engine off the stand onto the ground and get the transmission and the clutch and flywheel installed uh for that we're going to be using the BMW ZF transmission that was already in the car we've got a cool Collins adapter kit to mate the 2JZ to the BMW transmission so in case you're wondering an adapter plate does exactly what it says it does you can bolt to an engine and a transmission that don't naturally match up and at this point they make adapter plates like these for pretty much every popular combo obviously the 2JZ is a hugely popular engine and the BMW ZF is also very popular in its own right another nice feature of the Collins adapter kit is that it does away with the factory starter mounting bolts which go inside the transmission so you have to take the transmission off to take the starter off on the 2JZ which is insane so the Collins adapter plate comes with these studs so you get to replace those bolts with studs and you just have to drill out the threads on your 2JZ starter and you can Chuck it on those studs and use some nuts take your starter out whenever you damn well please all right so we've knocked in the pilot bushing adapter and now we're putting on the flywheel all this is supplied by Collins and then this will basically be the last bit of the column's kit then it's up to us to put a clutch on this thing and our transmission and a nice dut yellow pressure plate this is basically the spring that engages the clutch to the flywheel when you hit your throwout bearing flips these Springs down and releases so now this just has to go on there the first things I need to do is just clean off this friction surface get all the oils off of it and then we can throw it on there bolt it down and then our clutch setup is complete well that's a problem no yep you're lying no I'm not this is the wrong pressure plate no it Ain yes it is okay so somehow we've got the wrong size pressure plate uh which is going to make installing it of a problem uh okay back to the drawing board let's see what we got and what we actually need so got this and the pressure plate I guess I should clean this first okay so in front of me I've got a BMW ZF 5-speed transmission and this is the transmission that we put in the E36 when we manual swapped it forever ago this just happens to be a pretty easy to acquire pretty small pretty light and pretty strong manual transmission so people use these in a lot of things that aren't necessarily BMWs just what the doctor ordered it's everything we need and we already had it now I just got to put it together so throwout bearings about to go in little dab of Grease dab of Grease pop her on there it's often quite annoying trying to get a transmission on the back of the engine uh especially if you're doing it by yourself um so I'm going to do a little trick here that should should make things a lot easier I've just got a couple random bolts that are the same thread pitch and diameter as the bell housing bolts so I'm going to cut the heads off of them so that the transmission can slip right over them uh and use them as dowels and this should make thrown a transmission on very easy okay now with those there now with those there we can just slip the transmission on and uh jiggle the output shaft a little bit to move the input shaft get our splines to line up and the sucker should slide right on okay engine transmission ready for car just like that it's time for step three marriage uh so right now we've got the car jacked up a little bit so we can see underneath because we still have the uh transmission mount crossmember in place on the car if we can do it with the crossmember in place great if not it's got to come out it's just so damn close right here and the problem is what it's super close to is very sharp yeah it's that perfect like puncture Zone oh good um I could see grinding those off I could also see just dropping the subframe here do you want to just Yank on it with this while I push on it from there Heber drop the subr all right okay we have now dropped the subframe about an inch to give us some more room to get the oil pan over it uh should be all we need hopefully push in Heber looking good my engine mount is pretty well lined up a so close I'm right there ah all right you don't have to ham it up over there do that what the are you panicking I was kind of bullet more back okay and we are resting in the car okay the engine's in there now we just got to mount it and stuff it's a Monumental moment in any engine swap when you get to put the crane away and we're at that point the engine is in the car the engine mounts are bolted down he's finishing up right now and the trans Miss mounts are in and tight so now it's on to all the rest of the stuff but first I'm putting the crane away okay I've got the radiator and intercooler Loosely mounted so up next I'm going to be working on mounting the oil cooler right in front of the intercooler while I'm doing that heber's working on installing a power steering kit from Chase Bay uh it's got a nice Reservoir a nice cooler uh it should clean up the engine bay a little bit and give us good power steering which will be important okay so I'm bending up some brackets to mount our oil cooler uh basically off of the intercooler just with some random 1-in bar I've got laying around just some scraps uh there are certainly cleaner ways to do this but this is what we got laying around and I'm in a bit of a hurry so I'm just going to bend these and uh we should be able to mount the oil cooler fairly sturdily well the oil cooler is nicely mounted to the intercooler but the intercooler leaves a bit to be desired it'll tighten up with fittings on it and tubes and stuff all right most of the time when you're switching over to uh Standalone ECU you'll often have to add an intake air temp sensor depending on what your car already has and what the ECU wants to use uh so I need to add a bung to our charge piping near the throttle body for an intake air temp sensor and that lets the ECU know what temperature the air coming into the engine actually is so you want to put it pretty close to the throttle body so I'm doing that and that's one of the sensors that the ECU uses to know what's going on in the engine and make sure that the engine's safe and making as much power as it's supposed to okay the bung is on there it's not exactly perfect or pretty but it is exactly on there and that's really what I was after so this is done all right we're back at I just got some new shifter bushings so I'm about ready to install the shifter carrier then I can install the shifter there go my new bushings dri line ink came out yesterday and measured for our drive shaft so they're busy making us a drive shaft we are waiting on a handful of odds and ends to tie up a bunch of loose ends but I think we're going to be able to make some pretty serious progress today which is good cuz we got a lot of progress to make uh we have the wiring harness pretty much totally installed on the engine so now I got to feed it through the firewall into the cab and install our ECU okay so now we're inside the car and I'm working on mounting our Digital dash uh from link to goes with our ECU plugs and plays with the ECU and shows us all of the engine vitals this is basically an allinone gauge like allinone pretty much everything that the ECU can see you can see through this so you can monitor all of your engine vitals your oil pressure temperature fuel pressure temperatures of everything okay so I whipped up some quick brackets to mount the digital dash and here so assuming everything fits should be a pretty easy install see if we can get it done okay so our Digital dash is mounted I haven't fully tightened everything down but the mounting is done and it fits and it looks pretty good so I'm happy with that now we got to do the less fun Parts which is the wires the digital dash will give us a view of pretty much any parameter we want with the engine but the real star of the show is the ECU so an ECU gives you control over the ignition time over you know your fuel injectors and how big they can be and everything going on under the hood and those are the things that determine how much power an engine makes so with the control you get from an ECU you can tune that sucker up or some smart guy on a dyo can and make you as much power as the parts you have will allow and I can't wait to see north of 500 all right so right now I'm working on installing our catch can from radium um I am going to try to make a little panel to mount off of these existing brackets and uh I think it should just clear our intercooler tubing and everything else looking at this engine bay you might think hey over there's a really good spot there's plenty of room right over there and I was tempted to put it there but generally speaking when you're mounting a catch can you want to mount it on the intake side of the engine just to be as far away as possible from the hot exhaust the turbo uh the manifold everything like that because the vapors that are in here are air and a little bit of fuel and oil and things that are flammable so if you ever spring a leak from your catch can you don't want it to leak onto your super hot exhaust uh lest you catch on fire so I'm going to do a little extra work and put it over here just to be safe yeah okay break these edges a little bit and we'll install this piece of sh okay catch cans mounted pretty pretty quick and easy just use some uh old no longer used I hope uh stock brackets hopefully this doesn't get in the way of anything else that we got to do now we got to measure some lines order some materials to make some lines and then make a bunch of lines Jimmy said he would do it I look I don't know anything about no goddamn lines I don't know you know no goddamn 2J and a goddamn BMW dude it's sa Jimmy and job huh okay we are getting close to starting this thing we've got a lot of stuff done buttoning up some little stuff I'm wiring up uh the radiator fan and the oil cooler fan at the moment I've got some random electrical things just kind of buttoning things up again it's all the Loose Ends that we're trying to tackle right now honestly we should be able to at least key it on and see if something fries yep yeah I think we might get to turn a key today we just got to button a bunch of stuff up did you get the shifter in halfway in okay maybe I'll finish it okay our drive shaft is here and it is installed uh Drive Line Inc whipped this up really quick looks real nice should transmit all the power from the transmission to the diff which is what a drive shaft does so that's great Adam is currently working on our chassis Mount shifter uh that just showed up today looks like a really nice bit of Kit and it should feel great on once it's all installed we've got it mounted to the chassis but now we've got to shorten our selector Rod the thing that the bottom of the shifter connects to the transmission via uh that needs to be shorter now so we'll have to cut it up take a little piece out of it weld it back together no big deal that should feel great oh baby oh hey thanks man dude what's going on oh I have no idea uh no we're close we're close there's a lot of stuff going on but we are very close uh we've got some coolant stuff left to tie up but let's leave that to the side for now uh we're very close to first fire up which I think we'll do without any Coolin in it it's got oil so Adam's in there playing with the ECU trying to get it fired up load up the base map um I think really uh all the wiring is uh in a place where it can start it should be startable right now I'm just kind of coming to terms with that as I'm saying that to you which is always sort of a nerve-wracking time just running through all the things you may not have done or tightened yeah um so I should probably give everything at once over and uh then I think we'll try to fire this thing up soon we do need to get some fuel it's really hard to see this gauge uh do you want to are you sure it's not like priming at all uh I can't hear but let's check I feel like you should be able to here but I can see the gauge now yeah nothing okay so it seems like we don't have spark I could smell a little fuel we've got fuel pressure so reasonable to think that we do have fuel uh we definitely have air I believe we have compression but I don't think we have spark no questions yeah so what we're going to do right now uh to find out whether or not we have spark is a very simple test that you can do on most cars uh we're just taking uh the coil pack off cylinder 1 we're going to leave it plugged in we've got a spare spark plug that Nolan is currently putting into the coil pack then we'll ground out the threads of the spark plug somewhere in the engine bay and then Adam will crank it and if we do have spark that plug will be sparking there's a lot of volts running through coil packs it's one of the few spots on a car that can really zap you um so don't hold it yeah I mean you can do it but when you get bit by it you don't like it nay sparkk no spark but I smell fuel okay well sometimes projects just don't run and that's when you give up so that's going to do it for us uh thanks for watching all right so we tested it the oldfashioned way which is cranking the motor over but what's really cool about linky suu or any aftermarket a lot of them you can just go into the computer itself self and then just tell it to spark tell it to Prime fuel all that without having to keep turning that over and messing up the starter itself so we've got spark but now we got to figure out why the computer is not telling it to spark when we want it to spark this thing is smart but sometimes too smart I'm telling you you just got to check the box that says I need spark to be fair I haven't checked that box so it's probably on me so right now I'm trying to get link to remote in to see if if all the parameters we have set are correct we're having a little bit of problems starting the motor but I'm pretty sure it's just a couple clicks away and that's really it cuz the wiring is good um and everything else looks good so let's see did you already set the base fuel pressure assuming um no I have no idea what it should be at you able to crack let's see what happens you know woo W so our ignition issue just ended up being a setting that we had set wrong in the uh ECU software which is a pretty simple fix now the car runs so all we have to do is get an exhaust made over at borla put some fluids in this thing and take it to the dyno to see if this is actually the highest horsepower car we've ever built or just a bunch of money pretty poorly spent all right so while the E36 is getting a new exhaust from today sponsor borla we figured it'd be fun to check out a car built by our friend and professional Drifter Matt Field Matt what is this so this is my demo car it's basically a stock vet with a Texas Speed engine and sequential gearbox and a Bor attack system is there any chance that uh maybe we could drive it a little have at it boys no one let's get in before he changes his mind for almost 50 years borla has been the go-to exhaust for all drivers around the world woohoo the patented Technologies give you perf sound balance and Cutting Edge performance with no compromises it's loud as hell on the track but quiet and refined at home plus there's no annoying drone that's huge each system is manufactured in Johnson City Tennessee using the highest quality stainless steel with many different tips finishes and other customization options Boer helps tailor an exhaust system that best fits your Unique Style and sound so if you want St art performance reliability and the best damn sound out of your car get a borx sauce today to learn more click the link below all right we are getting this thing strapped to the dyo because we're going to try to make this our highest horse power car Danny said that we should probably go with 100 octane we're going to Chuck it in there and see what it makes I'm really hoping for 550 or 600 Danny thoughts I'd like to see 600 600 is what he says so let's see if that's what we get all right so we got a couple runs in honestly I'm getting really really excited the numbers are going up and this thing sounds awesome so still going to hit some keys on the keyboard and hopefully we get that 600 Mark if not 550 I'd be pretty happy with but honestly the sound this thing makes just makes me smile all right so we just did one of our final runs and this thing sounds so sick we hit 575 but I think there's a little bit more room super happy with that it is really healthy it sounds good so there it is 603 highest horsepower donut time to hit the track let's go okay first time out in the reborn E36 see how she feels it's got three times the power it used to have so it's going to feel a little different sounds cool a okay definitely got more power so I guess I'm warmed up let's take it to the track see how it does all right so we've got the 2J in the E36 is now now our highest horsepower car oh boy de High car used to be our highest horsepower car our most powerful car in our Fleet now we're going to see how they stack up if the 2J swap was worth it I think so but man it's just so cool to see two of our favorite cars out here uh looks like Adam is having some issues already what the I think I literally dropped the transmission back there we just can't win but the 2J is doing great go Zach I got to fix this dude that was sick as hell good it sounds good so uh the transmission has fallen out of hey there's definitely something under the car we're going to go help it's really hot we got to rescue you what happened drop sh uh I think the transmission fell out I don't know if that's actually what happened but the whole shifter is like oh no the shifter broke huh I think the shifter broke yeah there's something just dangling down there just can't win 2J sounded sick though when it drove away into the sunset in classic donut fashion we came out here to do one thing but have opened a completely different can of worms now let's watch some steezy drift footage of the E36 maybe Jo's out on track in the E36 sounds really good we go go heyy hey oh that yeah that doesn't sound good it got hot yeah it's hot it's hot no we got to pull in and cool down we're like extremely hot okay copy pull in pulling all right we got half a lap in is still our highest horsepower car for now it still is he still made the power and it made all the noises we'll fix it and break it again sounds good sounds good well holy crap the E36 lives again and this time it's got a 2JZ in its face and not only did we break the 500 horsepower Mark but we also broke the 600 horsepower mark this car is an absolute handful it's got over three times the power it had before and I'm having so much fun driving it I got a little bit of learning to do but this is going to be a fun way to learn so thank you guys for watching this build I hope you had as much fun watching it as I had doing it now I've got some tires left to burn where' I put the key can we review the tape where did I throw the key did I throw it