My CPU dropped _20 DEGREES_ after my first delidding

**Testing Liquid Metal Thermal Paste with Intel CPU**

Just to sort of model after just to see exactly how the IHS lines up with the substrate it's actually very handy alright so we're gonna drop this thing into a test system now this is actually gonna be the same test build that I put this guy into as soon as I realized it was overheating in the end - a leak build cuz I wanted to make sure that was actually the CPU and not maybe some sort of mounting mechanism with the monoblock or anything like that and sure enough even in this test build it was spiking up to TJ.maxx pretty much so let's go ahead and drop it into that same rig right now and see what happens.

**Boot Up and Initial Results**

alright so first things first we booted which means that there was no issue with like liquid metal touching any of the capacitors or anything else that it wasn't supposed to on the substrate so that's great the second thing here is that our idle temps are actually looking a lot better off the bat than they were before this whole process I think of as idling before it must have been like 45 55 as she was really bad and here we have in the 30s or so which is already a huge improvement I would say so things are looking good right now I'm feeling optimistic but you never really know what the sort of things so

**Testing Performance with Adobe Media Encoder**

I've got Adobe Media encoder CC 2018 open right here so we're actually gonna render a five-minute clip this is the same way that I was testing the CPU before this whole deleting procedure so let's go ahead and start keep an eye on those core temps cores for 13 and 17 I believe we're the sort of culprits those cores in particular were really overheating and causing the CPU package tend to just soar through the roof and right now things are looking pretty good but you want to give it a little bit of time with the W Premiere Pro or Media encoder it doesn't immediately start putting a full load on the system until maybe a quarter of the way through and then especially half half the way through is about as hot as a CPU will ever get at least in my experience so right now things are looking good though we're spiking up to around 68 69 mm-hmm we're actually clocking at 4 gigahertz that's right on the money and also the render is going a lot faster this time which means we're not we're not thermal throttling this five-minute clip took over 10 minutes to render before the deal it'd and now it looks like it's gonna finish it in about 5 minutes time which is which is normal it's pretty standard for a 79 80 XC r entering this at 4k I should also mention that the CPU is not overclocked we're running bone stock right now and it's being cooled by a three hundred and sixty millimeter thermal take ring plus I believe we're already more than halfway through the render but here we are hovering at around 80 degrees C so I think it's safe to say this worked it actually worked

**Conclusion**

I'm pretty stoked right now and I can't actually wait to pop this into the elite build now and see what kind of temps we get with a full-blown liquid cooled loop so yeh thank you very much Steve for all of your guidance and your help and the D lid tool and everything and yeah I guess this is all to say that if you are curious about D letting you should do it because I was able to do it and if I can do it pretty sure anyone can those are true words wifey sauce is nodding yes as well because she knows I'm inadequate it mostly everything but hey I feel good I feel good I feel good about myself

**Final Thoughts**

This was fun oh wait geez sorry I should probably let it finish rendering just to make sure that there's no last-minute things and no less minute issues but we only got like 10 seconds left of our render a t presea is is looking like it's the hottest at the cpu got that's down from a hundred and four so yeah it definitely worked and look at that we were able to render this guy in about four minutes or so as opposed to nearly triple that when it was overheating that's how thermal throttling works now the CPU is staying within its thermal constraints it doesn't have to down clock the frequency in order to stay within those operating boundaries so things are looking really good and I'm very happy that this worked out my first deal it was a success and liquid metal isn't quite as intimidating as some may think at least my experience so thank you guys for watching this video if you enjoyed it toss a like on and get subscribed for more stuff coming at you really soon and I'll see you guys in the next video

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enlevel up your game with the Corsair strafe mechanical keyboard featuring Cherry MX switches dynamic lighting control and endless program ability enjoy the comfort of premium contoured key caps and get connected with built-in USB pass-through click the link in the description to learn more alright guys so my sky like X Corps I 979 ATX e that was previously deleted by Steve from gamers Nexus is now overheating like a mother effer I wish I should have just said the whole word and then bleeped it out and post too scared of the algorithm now so to be clear Steve had nothing to do with why the CPU is now overheating when I initially got it back from him I was working perfectly fine temps were amazing and it wasn't until a couple months later when I actually drained the loop and I took the CPU out of its socket for a good cleaning and then I put it back in the system refilled the loop that's when it started overheating so I think in the process of taking it out of its socket that the retention clasp may have just alleviated enough pressure off of the IHS to sort of move move it around in a place that it shouldn't be or maybe kind of mess with some of the liquid metal that's underneath there could be air bubbles it could be a number of things I'm not sure but I'm pretty sure the very least that the issue started because of that that drain and fill procedure that I did so today we're actually gonna try to delete it again and reapply liquid metal and hopefully that'll get us back on track in the thermal Dept so what I have here is a delayed tool from your Bower wood she was actually sent to me from Steve he this is his and I'm gonna try using it today for the first time I've never deleted anything before guys so this could get I'm a little nervous just a little nervous but with Steve's guidance I also watched his tutorial I'm feeling pretty confident so let's just go ahead and do this alright so I put it in there I made sure that the triangle you know the triangles are matching there's a nice handy little triangle there for reference for free guidance and then you put it in there make sure that it's slotted in this isn't a tutorial by the way did go watch this video I'm just kind of walking you guys through what I'm doing here and then I'm going to start tightening this bolt so as I tighten the bolt it'll sort of push this lever and then this Smasher is Steve calls it is is the thing that actually puts pressure against your IHS so that's about as far as I can turn it with my fingers so now I got to use this allen key I'm gonna go ahead and turn it slowly I'm just gonna wait until I see the IHS shift maybe half a millimeter or maybe a millimeter or so oh I heard it I heard it kind of shift there so I'm gonna stop right there oh yeah it's already coming off I already saw it sort of a shift and hopefully I can just pry it off I believe you have to use vertical vertical pulling you can't like do a rotational type of spin it up there air it is ah oh boy Wow look at that all right we did it guys we did it my first deal and I'm so excited I feel giddy it's fun alright so it looks like there is some liquid metal in there we would hope but you know obviously I don't really know to look for as far as like signs I mean obviously I can't see any air bubbles or anything like that but I'm just gonna give it a good cleaning making sure not to mess with any of the the caps capacitors or other componentry around the substrate and I'm gonna reapply the liquid metal and hopefully once I reseal it everything will be working perfectly fine so the first thing to do is obviously clean off this liquid metal here using some rubbing alcohol and a q-tip just to make sure I'm gonna finish it off with a bit of paper towel here all right that is a clean looking guy right there shiny okay I'm gonna clean off the IHS now all right so both the IHS and the dye are clean so I'm gonna go ahead and apply some liquid metal now we've got conduct and not thermal grizzly this is the good stuff and I have also never done this before so yet another thing that I may potentially screw up it's a good thing that I'm recording all of this I believe Steve's tutorial said to sort of score it out a little a little just a tiny little drop first up there that might be it that might be all I need right there let's see if I can pick it up with my needle aha all right so I wish that I could just you know sandwich this little drop here with the IHS as is like we do with regular thermal paste but unfortunately that's not how this liquid metal works instead you got to sort of spread it out using a q-tip preferably I guess you could use your finger if you wanted to or like an actual spreader I'm just gonna go ahead and very carefully spread this across the entire surface of the die all right wifey sauce is taking over she she saw what I was doing and she was fascinated by it so team effort I suppose also if the CPU ends up dying or doesn't work for some reason okay I'm gonna say that looks good for now now I'm gonna do a close-up check here to see if there's any liquid metal on the substrate where it shouldn't be should literally only ever be on the die and it looks like looks like we're good and now I'm just gonna go ahead and remount the IHS onto the substrate we're not gonna do a permanent seal or anything I don't have any silicone on me anyway but what I've learned in recent weeks is that most people who delayed their CPUs opt out of permanently resealing the IHS just to make it easier to sort of get in there later down the line if they want to reapply liquid metal or whatever sort of material they're using and and you don't really need to honestly the actual pressure of whatever socket you're putting it into will keep it clamped down enough and as long as you're just careful when handling it in general you should be fine so I'm gonna go ahead and put this guy back on making sure that it is facing the same way of course is when I lit it it I've actually got another sky like X processor here just to sort of model after just to see exactly how the IHS lines up with the substrate it's actually very handy alright so we're gonna drop this thing into a test system now this is actually gonna be the same test build that I put this guy into as soon as I realized it was overheating in the end - a leak build cuz I wanted to make sure that was actually the CPU and not maybe some sort of mounting mechanism with the monoblock or anything like that and sure enough even in this test build it was spiking up to t.j.maxx pretty much so let's go ahead and drop it into that same rig right now and see what happens alright so first things first we booted which means that there was no issue with like liquid metal touching any of the capacitors or anything else that it wasn't supposed to on the substrate so that's great the second thing here is that our idle temps are actually looking a lot better off the bat than they were before this whole process I think of as idling before it must have been like 45 55 as she was really bad and here we have in the 30s or so which is already a huge improvement I would say so things are looking good right now I'm feeling optimistic but you never really know what the sort of things so I've got Adobe Media encoder CC 2018 open right here so we're actually gonna render a five-minute clip this is the same way that I was testing the CPU before this whole deleting procedure so let's go ahead and start keep an eye on those core temps cores for 13 and 17 I believe we're the sort of culprits those cores in particular were really overheating and causing the CPU package tend to just soar through the roof and right now things are looking pretty good but you want to give it a little bit of time with the W Premiere Pro or Media encoder it doesn't immediately start putting a full load on the system until maybe a quarter of the way through and then especially half half the way through is about as hot as a CPU will ever get at least in my experience so right now things are looking good though we're spiking up to around 68 69 mm-hmm we're actually clocking at 4 gigahertz that's right on the money and also the render is going a lot faster this time which means we're not we're not thermal throttling this five-minute clip took over 10 minutes to render before the deal it'd and now it looks like it's gonna finish it in about 5 minutes time which is which is normal it's pretty standard for a 79 80 XC r entering this at 4k I should also mention that the CPU is not overclocked we're running bone stock right now and it's being cooled by a three hundred and sixty millimeter thermal take ring plus I believe we're already more than halfway through the render but here we are hovering at around 80 degrees C so I think it's safe to say this worked it actually worked I'm pretty stoked right now and I can't actually wait to pop this into the elite build now and see what kind of temps we get with a full-blown liquid cooled loop so yeh thank you very much Steve for all of your guidance and your help and the D lid tool and everything and yeah I guess this is all to say that if you are curious about D letting you should do it because I was able to do it and if I can do it pretty sure anyone can those are true words wifey sauce is nodding yes as well because she knows I'm inadequate it mostly everything but hey I feel good I feel good I feel good about myself I'm gonna get my stuff little little round of applause there so this was fun oh wait geez sorry I should probably let it finish rendering just to make sure that there's no last-minute things and no less minute issues but we only got like 10 seconds left of our render a t presea is is looking like it's the hottest at the cpu got that's down from a hundred and four so yeah it definitely worked and look at that we were able to render this guy in about four minutes or so as opposed to nearly triple that when it was overheating that's how thermal throttling works now the CPU is staying within its thermal constraints it doesn't have to down clock the frequency in order to stay within those operating boundaries so things are looking really good and I'm very happy that this worked out my first deal it was a success and liquid metal isn't quite as intimidating as some may think at least my experience so thank you guys for watching this video if you enjoyed it toss a like on and get subscribed for more stuff coming at you really soon and I'll see you guys in the next videolevel up your game with the Corsair strafe mechanical keyboard featuring Cherry MX switches dynamic lighting control and endless program ability enjoy the comfort of premium contoured key caps and get connected with built-in USB pass-through click the link in the description to learn more alright guys so my sky like X Corps I 979 ATX e that was previously deleted by Steve from gamers Nexus is now overheating like a mother effer I wish I should have just said the whole word and then bleeped it out and post too scared of the algorithm now so to be clear Steve had nothing to do with why the CPU is now overheating when I initially got it back from him I was working perfectly fine temps were amazing and it wasn't until a couple months later when I actually drained the loop and I took the CPU out of its socket for a good cleaning and then I put it back in the system refilled the loop that's when it started overheating so I think in the process of taking it out of its socket that the retention clasp may have just alleviated enough pressure off of the IHS to sort of move move it around in a place that it shouldn't be or maybe kind of mess with some of the liquid metal that's underneath there could be air bubbles it could be a number of things I'm not sure but I'm pretty sure the very least that the issue started because of that that drain and fill procedure that I did so today we're actually gonna try to delete it again and reapply liquid metal and hopefully that'll get us back on track in the thermal Dept so what I have here is a delayed tool from your Bower wood she was actually sent to me from Steve he this is his and I'm gonna try using it today for the first time I've never deleted anything before guys so this could get I'm a little nervous just a little nervous but with Steve's guidance I also watched his tutorial I'm feeling pretty confident so let's just go ahead and do this alright so I put it in there I made sure that the triangle you know the triangles are matching there's a nice handy little triangle there for reference for free guidance and then you put it in there make sure that it's slotted in this isn't a tutorial by the way did go watch this video I'm just kind of walking you guys through what I'm doing here and then I'm going to start tightening this bolt so as I tighten the bolt it'll sort of push this lever and then this Smasher is Steve calls it is is the thing that actually puts pressure against your IHS so that's about as far as I can turn it with my fingers so now I got to use this allen key I'm gonna go ahead and turn it slowly I'm just gonna wait until I see the IHS shift maybe half a millimeter or maybe a millimeter or so oh I heard it I heard it kind of shift there so I'm gonna stop right there oh yeah it's already coming off I already saw it sort of a shift and hopefully I can just pry it off I believe you have to use vertical vertical pulling you can't like do a rotational type of spin it up there air it is ah oh boy Wow look at that all right we did it guys we did it my first deal and I'm so excited I feel giddy it's fun alright so it looks like there is some liquid metal in there we would hope but you know obviously I don't really know to look for as far as like signs I mean obviously I can't see any air bubbles or anything like that but I'm just gonna give it a good cleaning making sure not to mess with any of the the caps capacitors or other componentry around the substrate and I'm gonna reapply the liquid metal and hopefully once I reseal it everything will be working perfectly fine so the first thing to do is obviously clean off this liquid metal here using some rubbing alcohol and a q-tip just to make sure I'm gonna finish it off with a bit of paper towel here all right that is a clean looking guy right there shiny okay I'm gonna clean off the IHS now all right so both the IHS and the dye are clean so I'm gonna go ahead and apply some liquid metal now we've got conduct and not thermal grizzly this is the good stuff and I have also never done this before so yet another thing that I may potentially screw up it's a good thing that I'm recording all of this I believe Steve's tutorial said to sort of score it out a little a little just a tiny little drop first up there that might be it that might be all I need right there let's see if I can pick it up with my needle aha all right so I wish that I could just you know sandwich this little drop here with the IHS as is like we do with regular thermal paste but unfortunately that's not how this liquid metal works instead you got to sort of spread it out using a q-tip preferably I guess you could use your finger if you wanted to or like an actual spreader I'm just gonna go ahead and very carefully spread this across the entire surface of the die all right wifey sauce is taking over she she saw what I was doing and she was fascinated by it so team effort I suppose also if the CPU ends up dying or doesn't work for some reason okay I'm gonna say that looks good for now now I'm gonna do a close-up check here to see if there's any liquid metal on the substrate where it shouldn't be should literally only ever be on the die and it looks like looks like we're good and now I'm just gonna go ahead and remount the IHS onto the substrate we're not gonna do a permanent seal or anything I don't have any silicone on me anyway but what I've learned in recent weeks is that most people who delayed their CPUs opt out of permanently resealing the IHS just to make it easier to sort of get in there later down the line if they want to reapply liquid metal or whatever sort of material they're using and and you don't really need to honestly the actual pressure of whatever socket you're putting it into will keep it clamped down enough and as long as you're just careful when handling it in general you should be fine so I'm gonna go ahead and put this guy back on making sure that it is facing the same way of course is when I lit it it I've actually got another sky like X processor here just to sort of model after just to see exactly how the IHS lines up with the substrate it's actually very handy alright so we're gonna drop this thing into a test system now this is actually gonna be the same test build that I put this guy into as soon as I realized it was overheating in the end - a leak build cuz I wanted to make sure that was actually the CPU and not maybe some sort of mounting mechanism with the monoblock or anything like that and sure enough even in this test build it was spiking up to t.j.maxx pretty much so let's go ahead and drop it into that same rig right now and see what happens alright so first things first we booted which means that there was no issue with like liquid metal touching any of the capacitors or anything else that it wasn't supposed to on the substrate so that's great the second thing here is that our idle temps are actually looking a lot better off the bat than they were before this whole process I think of as idling before it must have been like 45 55 as she was really bad and here we have in the 30s or so which is already a huge improvement I would say so things are looking good right now I'm feeling optimistic but you never really know what the sort of things so I've got Adobe Media encoder CC 2018 open right here so we're actually gonna render a five-minute clip this is the same way that I was testing the CPU before this whole deleting procedure so let's go ahead and start keep an eye on those core temps cores for 13 and 17 I believe we're the sort of culprits those cores in particular were really overheating and causing the CPU package tend to just soar through the roof and right now things are looking pretty good but you want to give it a little bit of time with the W Premiere Pro or Media encoder it doesn't immediately start putting a full load on the system until maybe a quarter of the way through and then especially half half the way through is about as hot as a CPU will ever get at least in my experience so right now things are looking good though we're spiking up to around 68 69 mm-hmm we're actually clocking at 4 gigahertz that's right on the money and also the render is going a lot faster this time which means we're not we're not thermal throttling this five-minute clip took over 10 minutes to render before the deal it'd and now it looks like it's gonna finish it in about 5 minutes time which is which is normal it's pretty standard for a 79 80 XC r entering this at 4k I should also mention that the CPU is not overclocked we're running bone stock right now and it's being cooled by a three hundred and sixty millimeter thermal take ring plus I believe we're already more than halfway through the render but here we are hovering at around 80 degrees C so I think it's safe to say this worked it actually worked I'm pretty stoked right now and I can't actually wait to pop this into the elite build now and see what kind of temps we get with a full-blown liquid cooled loop so yeh thank you very much Steve for all of your guidance and your help and the D lid tool and everything and yeah I guess this is all to say that if you are curious about D letting you should do it because I was able to do it and if I can do it pretty sure anyone can those are true words wifey sauce is nodding yes as well because she knows I'm inadequate it mostly everything but hey I feel good I feel good I feel good about myself I'm gonna get my stuff little little round of applause there so this was fun oh wait geez sorry I should probably let it finish rendering just to make sure that there's no last-minute things and no less minute issues but we only got like 10 seconds left of our render a t presea is is looking like it's the hottest at the cpu got that's down from a hundred and four so yeah it definitely worked and look at that we were able to render this guy in about four minutes or so as opposed to nearly triple that when it was overheating that's how thermal throttling works now the CPU is staying within its thermal constraints it doesn't have to down clock the frequency in order to stay within those operating boundaries so things are looking really good and I'm very happy that this worked out my first deal it was a success and liquid metal isn't quite as intimidating as some may think at least my experience so thank you guys for watching this video if you enjoyed it toss a like on and get subscribed for more stuff coming at you really soon and I'll see you guys in the next video\n"