**Comparing Wood Finishes: A Deep Dive**

As any woodworker knows, choosing the right finish for your project can be overwhelming with all the options available. In this article, we'll delve into a comparison of different wood finishes, including boiled linseed oil, tung oil, teak oil, and Danish oil. We'll explore their properties, benefits, and drawbacks to help you make an informed decision.

**Boiled Linseed Oil: The Unsung Hero**

The first finish on our list is boiled linseed oil. One of the main reasons we chose this finish is its mild odor. Unlike some other finishes that have a strong chemical smell, boiled linseed oil has a subtle scent that's less likely to disturb those around you. In terms of color, it tends to give wood a warm tone. When applied to a test piece, we noticed that the boiled linseed oil blended seamlessly with the surrounding area. However, its subtle difference in appearance may not be noticeable unless you're looking closely.

**Tung Oil: A Close Second**

Next up is tung oil, another popular finish for wood. Tung oil has a distinct smell that's slightly more pungent than boiled linseed oil. While it's still a far cry from the strongest chemical odors, it's not exactly pleasant either. In terms of color, tung oil tends to darken wood over time, making it a great choice for projects where you want to achieve a rich, worn look. Our test piece showed a noticeable difference in appearance between the tung oil and boiled linseed oil.

**Teak Oil: A Dull Finish**

Now, let's talk about teak oil. One of the main drawbacks of this finish is its strong, chemical-like smell that can linger for days after application. In terms of color, teak oil tends to darken wood significantly, but it also has a tendency to bring out any imperfections in the wood grain. Our test piece showed a noticeable difference in appearance between the teak oil and boiled linseed oil.

**Danish Oil: A Range of Options**

Moving on to Danish oil, which is available in three different colors: light, medium, and dark walnut. Unfortunately, these finishes are often indistinguishable from one another, especially when applied to a large surface area. In our test, we were unable to tell the difference between the two darker versions, despite their claimed distinct characteristics. However, Danish oil does have its benefits – it's known for its ease of application and durability.

**Volunteer's Insight: Special Orders**

One question that arose during our testing was whether there is a clear Danish oil available. After inquiring with various suppliers, we were unable to find any information on a clear version of the finish. It appears that most Danish oils are tinted with walnut dye, making them less versatile than other options.

**The Big Question: Which Finish Should I Choose?**

So, which finish should you choose for your project? For our money, boiled linseed oil takes the crown due to its mild odor and subtle color effect. However, tung oil is a close second if you're looking for a darker finish with a richer tone. Teak oil, on the other hand, may be worth avoiding unless you enjoy strong chemical smells.

**The Unsung Hero: Volunter's Magic**

And finally, there's Volunter's Magic wax – a game-changer in our opinion. This wax adds an extra dimension to wood, making it look and feel more premium. It's like a magic trick that transforms your project from good to great. We applied this wax to our test pieces, and the results were astounding.

**The Final Verdict**

In conclusion, boiled linseed oil and Volunter's Magic wax are our top picks for any woodworker looking to achieve a high-quality finish. Tung oil is another strong contender, but its strong smell may be off-putting for some. Teak oil, unfortunately, has too strong of a chemical odor to recommend.

**Waxing the Truth**

With that said, we're now ready to wax on about the Volunter's Magic wax – the real star of our show. This stuff is magic (pun intended). We applied it to our test pieces and were blown away by its ability to bring out the natural beauty of the wood. The subtle texture created by the wax makes each piece look and feel premium.

**The Verdict Remains the Same**

Ultimately, our conclusion remains the same – boiled linseed oil is a great choice for any project where you want a mild odor and a warm tone. Volunter's Magic wax takes the cake when it comes to adding an extra dimension to wood. Tung oil is worth considering if you're looking for a darker finish with a richer tone. Teak oil, unfortunately, has too strong of a chemical smell to recommend.

**And That's a Wrap**

That concludes our deep dive into wood finishes. We hope you've learned something new and valuable about the various options available to woodworkers. If you have any questions or comments, please don't hesitate to reach out – we're always here to help. Happy woodworking!

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enwhat's up guys i'm nick and this is build that build a place where we believe that oil isn't just for strippers anymore okay guys if you're not familiar with my channel i'm the guy who burns things on the internet whether i like it or not so what we're going to do today is revisit a technique called shoshugibon where we burn the wood we brush the wood and then we finish you guessed it the wood in the past you see me use this technique both with a light burn and a dark burn i've made several other videos about this process i'll link those up here today we'll be working with pine we'll be burning it brushing it and then we'll be finishing with one of these oils i went to the big box store and i just picked up the oils that were readily available so i picked up some danish oil some teak oil a little boiled linseed oil and some tung oil in a previous video i'd use simple finish by maker branco i'll link that video right up here the reason we're checking out other oils is because one that oil is kind of expensive and two apparently it's out of stock lots so i get a lot of questions on what you can use if that's not available or it's not your price point so what i figured i would do is just kind of touch on all these oils which are of consenting age and see which ones we like the best during this process i'm also going to be using a new tool that i got for christmas this is a restorer this is meant to strip paint and things off of other things you can also buy this nylon bristle brush for it that will strip char off so basically this is just going to be like my nylon brushes on steroids this tool is an investment this is what i do for a living though so we're okay in investing in this tool i still use these guys i'll link to these in the description below as well these are nylox brushes by dieco they chuck into your drill and then you can use them to strip char off as well this is a much cheaper option but i'm hoping that the restore is going to save me a little bit of time for the majority of this video for any basics on shishugibon i would point you towards the playlist that i've put together because i go over the treatment in more detail however i do want to point out a couple of things because i get these questions on a regular basis one when you're picking your wood you have to look at your wood grain don't just go pick out any pieces of wood because if you don't have a variant in your wood grain your treatment is gonna look very plain i spent a lot of time picking through the lumber at the big box stores number two i get this question all the time on cupping i want you to pay very close attention if i can even get this in frame let's try to see how close i can get okay see how this makes a c right here at the end if i burn this side of this piece of wood it is going to cup it's going to make that sea more pronounced so this piece of wood is going to burn that way so when you're picking your wood and you're picking your side for your wood you want to burn this side because this side is less likely to make this more pronounced if that makes sense now they say do what you love you never work a day in your life i say lighting stuff on fire qualifies all right couple things one i started scraping that without a mask on don't do that okay it creates a big cloud of black stuff that will totally get in your nose and everything else and i don't recommend using any sort of dust collection when you're scraping char unless you've let those boards sit like overnight because the last thing you want to do is suck up like a little ember into either your dust collection system or your shop vac because you can start a fire that way speaking of fires that brings me to my next tip boiled linseed oil gets a bad rap for this but i think a lot of different oils kind of fall into the same category once you apply your oil don't just take that rag and wad it up in a ball and throw it in your trash can they can spontaneously combust there is like a chemical reaction that can happen what i suggest is taking your used rags laying them out like on the driveway or a concrete surface make sure they're flat and let them dry that way and keep an eye on them that spontaneous combustion or i guess it's really a chemical reaction it's not spontaneous combustion uh occurs when it's kind of bundled up and there's some kindling involved like sawdust or something which is why you especially don't want to throw your trash can in the shop but lay it out let it dry i also know some guys that like actually submerge them in water like a ziploc bag full of water put it in there seal it up and then throw it in the trash can take whatever precautions just know that like oily rags just in general wadded up in a ball and throw it in your trash can can cause some issues all right this has been my learning spaceship soapbox for today now it's time to ask yourself not unlike if you were at a good bachelor or bachelorette party where's the oil oh yeah and don't be a jackass glove up okay it is the next day i oiled those down they've sat for probably about 12 14 hours and the results are interesting i have heard woodworkers argue angrily over whose oil is better honestly between all of these i can't hardly tell a difference in any of them even the danish oil that's supposed to be dark walnut versus the danish oil that's supposed to be medium walnut like you'd think those would be different colors i can't tell the difference i can kind of see a difference in it's the boiled linseed oil it does look like it gives it a little bit of a warmer look what i'm going to do is i'm going to show you each one of them let you make your call and then i'm going to wax all of these and buff them out and see if we notice anything after that because right now my recommendation is if you want to use oil go with whatever's cheapest all right let's check them out we have tongue oil now let me say this they may all look the same but they all look amazing i think i just like the way that the oil looks on the wood so that is tung oil you've got that nice warm look about it it looks pretty good okay next we have the boiled linseed oil on initial inspection you're gonna say that this is a lot darker than the other ones let me just let you know that this portion of this board was darker to start out with so while i do see more of a golden hue up in the top that darker portion is from the torch and the wood grain being tight not the oil okay next up the teak oil are you guys seeing a pattern here smells delicious though so again the teak oil looks fantastic but i can't tell the difference between that and tung oil now before i get to the next two somebody tell me out there if there's just like clear danish oil because the only danish oils i can find are different tints of walnut so i don't know if that is just a thing for danish oil or there's a clear one out there and they don't stock it in my big box stores or if it's something you got a special order but all i've ever been able to find is light medium and dark walnut and i would think since those are three different classifications that those would be three different colors but can you tell me which one is which to me if if there's a difference it's so subtle i would never know i i would think that you could do half a piece of furniture with with medium and half a dark and you would never know the difference there they are under the ugly lights dark walnut medium walnut all right i will get to waxing them in just a second but i did want to put this out there if i had to pick out of all of these i think it would go with the boiled linseed oil and that is for one reason and one reason only it doesn't smell as bad as the other ones the other ones definitely have a chemical smell to them whereas the boiled linseed oil like it has an odor but it's not nearly as offensive i guess as the tongue oil and the t-coil and the danish oil this this to me kind of comes across as a little bit more all-natural i don't know if it is that being said this does have a a used extreme caution on the back of it and it says to hand wash the rags after you use them to make sure that they don't spontaneously combust i'm assuming since there's more of a warning on the back of this than there is on the other ones that it's more likely for this stuff to go up so just something to keep in mind if you're working with it now if there's anything that's really going to make these stick out it's going to be wax so what we're going to use is a little voltner's magic right here buddy of mine matt voltner sells this and this stuff is excellent for a wax finish on your wood all right guys we're gonna hit this little voltner magic and uh we'll check back in about an hour one hour later all right guys we are back it has been an hour and the wax has been buffed if you know what i'm saying don't be nasty i buff the wax and i honestly gotta say i still can't tell the difference but let's check them out again we have the tongue oil now the wax is making it look even more amazing but you be the judge can you tell any difference between that and the boiled linseed oil and the bullet linseed oil isn't even the best example because of that dark area i was telling you about but here's teak oil if i put that next to the tongue oil i can't see any difference in the two and then we have the two danish oils again with the wax on it i can't tell any difference they still look identical to me this is the medium this is the dark there might be a little bit darker right there and that's about it now what i will say is the real star of the show is that voltner wax the that boldner magic right there and take a look at that that wax definitely makes that board pop especially when you can see that green texture just looks awesome so my conclusion is this boiled linseed oil for the wind mainly just because of the smell it may give it a little bit more of a warm tone voltner wax also for the wind i think we can agree that that wax just adds another dimension to the texture of the wood and just makes it look just a little bit better okay guys that being said i think that's all for today and i'd like to say thank you to each and every one of you for hanging around till the end and seeing the results but especially all of my patrons you guys are the ones that keep the lights on in the garage meow baby especially nick the greek stephen mann eric weiss derek coates caveman ross chuck faulkner the weekend diyer puffy muffins chas thompson and mike penrod an extra special clinkies to you folks alright guys until next time i gotta get to work check out this shirt get to work microphone check one microphone check two mic check mic check the only thing i can is that grosswhat's up guys i'm nick and this is build that build a place where we believe that oil isn't just for strippers anymore okay guys if you're not familiar with my channel i'm the guy who burns things on the internet whether i like it or not so what we're going to do today is revisit a technique called shoshugibon where we burn the wood we brush the wood and then we finish you guessed it the wood in the past you see me use this technique both with a light burn and a dark burn i've made several other videos about this process i'll link those up here today we'll be working with pine we'll be burning it brushing it and then we'll be finishing with one of these oils i went to the big box store and i just picked up the oils that were readily available so i picked up some danish oil some teak oil a little boiled linseed oil and some tung oil in a previous video i'd use simple finish by maker branco i'll link that video right up here the reason we're checking out other oils is because one that oil is kind of expensive and two apparently it's out of stock lots so i get a lot of questions on what you can use if that's not available or it's not your price point so what i figured i would do is just kind of touch on all these oils which are of consenting age and see which ones we like the best during this process i'm also going to be using a new tool that i got for christmas this is a restorer this is meant to strip paint and things off of other things you can also buy this nylon bristle brush for it that will strip char off so basically this is just going to be like my nylon brushes on steroids this tool is an investment this is what i do for a living though so we're okay in investing in this tool i still use these guys i'll link to these in the description below as well these are nylox brushes by dieco they chuck into your drill and then you can use them to strip char off as well this is a much cheaper option but i'm hoping that the restore is going to save me a little bit of time for the majority of this video for any basics on shishugibon i would point you towards the playlist that i've put together because i go over the treatment in more detail however i do want to point out a couple of things because i get these questions on a regular basis one when you're picking your wood you have to look at your wood grain don't just go pick out any pieces of wood because if you don't have a variant in your wood grain your treatment is gonna look very plain i spent a lot of time picking through the lumber at the big box stores number two i get this question all the time on cupping i want you to pay very close attention if i can even get this in frame let's try to see how close i can get okay see how this makes a c right here at the end if i burn this side of this piece of wood it is going to cup it's going to make that sea more pronounced so this piece of wood is going to burn that way so when you're picking your wood and you're picking your side for your wood you want to burn this side because this side is less likely to make this more pronounced if that makes sense now they say do what you love you never work a day in your life i say lighting stuff on fire qualifies all right couple things one i started scraping that without a mask on don't do that okay it creates a big cloud of black stuff that will totally get in your nose and everything else and i don't recommend using any sort of dust collection when you're scraping char unless you've let those boards sit like overnight because the last thing you want to do is suck up like a little ember into either your dust collection system or your shop vac because you can start a fire that way speaking of fires that brings me to my next tip boiled linseed oil gets a bad rap for this but i think a lot of different oils kind of fall into the same category once you apply your oil don't just take that rag and wad it up in a ball and throw it in your trash can they can spontaneously combust there is like a chemical reaction that can happen what i suggest is taking your used rags laying them out like on the driveway or a concrete surface make sure they're flat and let them dry that way and keep an eye on them that spontaneous combustion or i guess it's really a chemical reaction it's not spontaneous combustion uh occurs when it's kind of bundled up and there's some kindling involved like sawdust or something which is why you especially don't want to throw your trash can in the shop but lay it out let it dry i also know some guys that like actually submerge them in water like a ziploc bag full of water put it in there seal it up and then throw it in the trash can take whatever precautions just know that like oily rags just in general wadded up in a ball and throw it in your trash can can cause some issues all right this has been my learning spaceship soapbox for today now it's time to ask yourself not unlike if you were at a good bachelor or bachelorette party where's the oil oh yeah and don't be a jackass glove up okay it is the next day i oiled those down they've sat for probably about 12 14 hours and the results are interesting i have heard woodworkers argue angrily over whose oil is better honestly between all of these i can't hardly tell a difference in any of them even the danish oil that's supposed to be dark walnut versus the danish oil that's supposed to be medium walnut like you'd think those would be different colors i can't tell the difference i can kind of see a difference in it's the boiled linseed oil it does look like it gives it a little bit of a warmer look what i'm going to do is i'm going to show you each one of them let you make your call and then i'm going to wax all of these and buff them out and see if we notice anything after that because right now my recommendation is if you want to use oil go with whatever's cheapest all right let's check them out we have tongue oil now let me say this they may all look the same but they all look amazing i think i just like the way that the oil looks on the wood so that is tung oil you've got that nice warm look about it it looks pretty good okay next we have the boiled linseed oil on initial inspection you're gonna say that this is a lot darker than the other ones let me just let you know that this portion of this board was darker to start out with so while i do see more of a golden hue up in the top that darker portion is from the torch and the wood grain being tight not the oil okay next up the teak oil are you guys seeing a pattern here smells delicious though so again the teak oil looks fantastic but i can't tell the difference between that and tung oil now before i get to the next two somebody tell me out there if there's just like clear danish oil because the only danish oils i can find are different tints of walnut so i don't know if that is just a thing for danish oil or there's a clear one out there and they don't stock it in my big box stores or if it's something you got a special order but all i've ever been able to find is light medium and dark walnut and i would think since those are three different classifications that those would be three different colors but can you tell me which one is which to me if if there's a difference it's so subtle i would never know i i would think that you could do half a piece of furniture with with medium and half a dark and you would never know the difference there they are under the ugly lights dark walnut medium walnut all right i will get to waxing them in just a second but i did want to put this out there if i had to pick out of all of these i think it would go with the boiled linseed oil and that is for one reason and one reason only it doesn't smell as bad as the other ones the other ones definitely have a chemical smell to them whereas the boiled linseed oil like it has an odor but it's not nearly as offensive i guess as the tongue oil and the t-coil and the danish oil this this to me kind of comes across as a little bit more all-natural i don't know if it is that being said this does have a a used extreme caution on the back of it and it says to hand wash the rags after you use them to make sure that they don't spontaneously combust i'm assuming since there's more of a warning on the back of this than there is on the other ones that it's more likely for this stuff to go up so just something to keep in mind if you're working with it now if there's anything that's really going to make these stick out it's going to be wax so what we're going to use is a little voltner's magic right here buddy of mine matt voltner sells this and this stuff is excellent for a wax finish on your wood all right guys we're gonna hit this little voltner magic and uh we'll check back in about an hour one hour later all right guys we are back it has been an hour and the wax has been buffed if you know what i'm saying don't be nasty i buff the wax and i honestly gotta say i still can't tell the difference but let's check them out again we have the tongue oil now the wax is making it look even more amazing but you be the judge can you tell any difference between that and the boiled linseed oil and the bullet linseed oil isn't even the best example because of that dark area i was telling you about but here's teak oil if i put that next to the tongue oil i can't see any difference in the two and then we have the two danish oils again with the wax on it i can't tell any difference they still look identical to me this is the medium this is the dark there might be a little bit darker right there and that's about it now what i will say is the real star of the show is that voltner wax the that boldner magic right there and take a look at that that wax definitely makes that board pop especially when you can see that green texture just looks awesome so my conclusion is this boiled linseed oil for the wind mainly just because of the smell it may give it a little bit more of a warm tone voltner wax also for the wind i think we can agree that that wax just adds another dimension to the texture of the wood and just makes it look just a little bit better okay guys that being said i think that's all for today and i'd like to say thank you to each and every one of you for hanging around till the end and seeing the results but especially all of my patrons you guys are the ones that keep the lights on in the garage meow baby especially nick the greek stephen mann eric weiss derek coates caveman ross chuck faulkner the weekend diyer puffy muffins chas thompson and mike penrod an extra special clinkies to you folks alright guys until next time i gotta get to work check out this shirt get to work microphone check one microphone check two mic check mic check the only thing i can is that gross\n"