**The Handheld Game Console Project: A Step-by-Step Guide**

As I bring this project to an end, I want to share with you the process of creating a handheld game console from scratch.

**Gathering Components and Adding Tactile Push Buttons**

After desoldering all the wires from my prototype handhelds, I gathered the necessary components and added three tactile push buttons to the pile for the case. I went for a classical Game Boy housing that I found online for a pretty decent price. Mine came with the mandatory buttons and rubber conductive pads, but we're going to need two more additional buttons and obviously the fitting rubber pads.

**Mounting the LCD**

Since the LCD does not fit without modifications, I had to slowly and carefully remove the upper screw brackets, making sure to keep them for later. After flattening out the rest of the surface, the LCD did fits, but the cutout on the front was still too small. I measured the width and height of the visible screen of the LCD and compared them to the dimensions of the case indentation only to realize that a gap of 1 mm from each side was necessary to house the screen properly.

**Creating the Button Holes**

I marked the required cuts with a scalpel and used the rotary tool with a cutting wheel to enlarge the cutout. Then, I created the three holes for the tactile switches using a 3.5 mm drill. The buttons still worked fine after the procedure, so I snipped off the leads on one side and created once again a common ground.

**Attaching the Raspberry Pi**

Next, it was time to attach the Raspberry Pi inside the cartridge slots. I drilled the mounting holes for the Pi through the case and removed the metal podt as a template. Then, I attached the Pi using M3 bolts, which are more common than M2.5 bolts.

**Adding the Tactile Switches**

I marked spots 10 mm right and left from the battery compartments and another one 5 mm above it with a 3.5 mm drill. Then, I created the three holes for the tactile switches using a 3.5 mm drill. After the procedure, the buttons still worked fine.

**Securing the Battery Contacts**

I salvaged two metal contacts from a battery holder and pushed them in place to secure the battery compartment.

**Completing the Mounting Process**

I reattached my 3D print, attached the audio switch to the upper right recess, placed the volume control wheel underneath it, followed by the audio amp on the left side of the 3D print. Finally, I placed the RC filter circuit inside an indentation in the down-right corner.

**Wiring Up the System**

Once everything was mounted, I secured the Raspberry Pi and pushed the protection circuit inside the cartridge slots. Then, I flattened out the surface of the battery compartment and reattached two of the screw brackets to the LCD with hot glue. After plugging in the back batteries and flipping on the power switch, this project was finally complete.

**Conclusion**

This handheld game console project is definitely super fun to play. If you like this video, don't forget to like, share, and subscribe. Consider supporting me through Patreon to keep such videos coming. Stay creative, and I will see you next time!

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enlet's bring this project to an end after I desoldered all the wires from my prototype handhelds I once again gathered the necessary components and added three tactile push buttons to the pile for the case I went of a classical Game Boy housing that I found online for a pretty decent price mine came with the mandatory buttons and rubber conductive pads but we're going to need two more additional buttons and obviously the fitting rubber pads now let's start the mounting process with the LCD since it does not fit without modifications I had to slowly and carefully remove the upper for screw brackets but make sure to keep them for later after flattening out the rest of the surface the LCD did fits but the cut out on the front was still too small so I measured the width and height of the visible screen of the LCD and compared them to the dimensions of the case indentation only to realize that a gap of 1 mm from each side was necessary to house the screen properly I marked the required Cuts with a scalpel and used the rotary tool with a cutting wheel to enlarge the cutout afterwards the screen still didn't fit perfectly so I used a small file to complete this task but before gluing the LCD in place I removed another screw bracket of above the B button used white tape to cover the A and B button revealed their location and size with a pencil and connected their Center points with a line orthogonal to this line are marked two points with a distance of 15 mm from the center points and used an 11 mm drill to create two holes with the newly created markings as a center point now that we've got an X and Y button hole it was time to get the LCD in position and glue it in place with plenty of hot glue on all of its sides next I placed the speaker in its indentation and also secured it with hot glue as well as the 3D printed button wells around the X and Y button hole you can get those button Wells from the PSE sudomod markets or print them yourself with the STL file I continued by dropping the four buttons in their place and adding the rubber pads on top which were a bit too big at least one of them so I removed small parts of unne s robber and positioned them again this time successfully afterwards I hot glued the previously removed screw brackets next to the buttons and got myself a piece of perfboard with copper strips I placed it on top of the buttons and marked an outline that would include all the screw brackets but would not interfere with other components through the help of a cutter and boot Force I created the required shape snipped off the AIS of The Guiding rods for the rubber pads and placed place the perf boards once again on top with the help of a 2 mm drill I created holes through the perf board above the screw brackets and used the included screws of the case with a M3 washer to secure the board but needless to say my first attempt was terrible that is why I created a new piece of perf board and repeated the same procedure with much better results afterwards I drilled the other two holes and secured the perf board firmly by using the second and third screw brackets and just like that the ab X and Y button felt pretty authentic while pressing so I repeated this procedure by dropping the d-pads as well as the rubber pads in place shortening The Guiding rods and using the same cutting braking Drilling and screwing technique to mount the second button perf board to the case now all the buttons felt like they should work but there were no wires connected yet for that I marked the spot spots on the perf board where the black conductive material of the rubber pads were visible remove the boards from the case created a common ground by connecting one side of all buttons together through the help of silvered copper wire and added one wire of a ribbon cable to the other side of each button after remounting the boards to the case I hooked up the common ground and each button individually to my multimeter in order to measure its resistance if the multimeter presents a value when pressing a button we know that everything should work fine later on and after this first test one half of the handheld was complete time for the second one there I wanted to mount the over discharged protection circuits and the Raspberry Pi inside the cartridge slots but a big part of it is conductive metal so I removed this part and created a custom extended 3D model of it that was then 3D printed but I still needed to remove two more guiding rods in order to make the 3D print fit inside the case afterwards I used the metal podt as a template to drill the four mounting holes in the 3D print attached it to the case with the four screws and positioned the raspberry pie inside the cartridge slots I drilled the mounting holes for the pie through the case and remove the 3D print afterwards to drill the remaining two hols and by the way I extended the diameter of the mounting holes with a 3 mm drill because M3 bolts are just more common than m2.5 bolts next it was time to attach the three tactile switches which will be used for the TL TR and hotkey button I simply marked a spots 10 mm right and left from the battery compartments and another one 5 mm above it with a 3.5 mm drill I then created the three holes pushed the shaft of the switches through them and secured it all with hot glue after the procedure the buttons still worked fine so I snipped off the leads on one side created once again a common ground and Sol the wire to the other lead of each switch then I enlarged the holder of the 3.5 mm Jack with a file and used a small drop of hot glue to secure it in place now if you watch the previous part of this project carefully you might have noticed that there was something missing inside the battery compartment but thankfully you can easily Salvage those two metal contacts from pretty much every available ablea battery holder simply push the parts in place and secure it all without glue afterwards I placed the main power switch of the system inside its cavity used the 2 mm duel to create the mounting holes and use small wood screws to secure the switch in place for the last part of this never ending mounting process I reattached my 3D print Hot Glu the audio switch to the upper right recess the volume control wheel underneath it followed by the audio amp on the left side of the 3D print and finally the RC filter circuit inside an indentation in the down right corner right after I sold the necessary wires to the circuits and just like that both halves of the handheld were complete the only thing left to do was the wiring which was pretty much the same as I described it in part one of this project the only thing that is different this time was the increased number of buttons that only need to connect to the gpros of the Raspberry Pi but as long as you carefully follow the given connection diagram it should work out just fine once everything was wired up I secured the Raspberry Pi pushed the protection circuit inside the cartridge slots flattened out the surface of the battery compartment and reattached two of the screw brackets to the LCD with h glue in order to close everything up with the given screws after plugging in the back batteries and flipping on the power switch this project was finally complete and is definitely super fun to play I hope you like this video If so don't forget to like share and subscribe consider supporting me through patreon to keep such videos coming stay creative and I will see you next time