The Builder's Journey: Assembling a Motor Block from Scratch

The journey to assemble a motor block from scratch begins with preparing the necessary components and tools. The builder starts by acquiring all the required parts, including the main bearings, rod bearings, crankshaft, and flywheel, as well as specialized tools like plasti gauge and brake cleaner.

With the parts in hand, the next step is to clean and prepare the motor block for assembly. This involves spraying off the main bearings with brake cleaner to remove any residue or debris that may interfere with the installation process. The builder also uses a paper towel to apply more brake cleaner to any surfaces that need it, ensuring a smooth and even finish.

Once the motor block is clean and prepared, the builder sets about installing the main bearings. This involves carefully placing the bearings in their respective locations within the motor block and tightening them down securely. The builder then moves on to install the rod bearings, which are typically smaller than the main bearings but equally important for maintaining the overall performance of the engine.

As the assembly process continues, the builder begins to work on the crankshaft installation. This involves carefully placing the crankshaft in its designated location within the motor block and ensuring that it is properly aligned with the bearings. The builder then tightens down the crankshaft bolts to secure it in place.

One of the most critical aspects of assembling a motor block is ensuring proper clearance between the bearings and other components. To achieve this, the builder uses a plasti gauge to measure the clearance between the bearings and the crankshaft or rod bearings. However, in this instance, the builder has chosen not to use the plasti gauge, instead relying on standard size bearings that are known to fit together without issue.

With the main bearings and crankshaft installed, the builder moves on to install the flywheel and clutch. The flywheel is a critical component that helps to balance the engine's rotation and ensure smooth operation. In this instance, the builder has opted for a stage five clutch, which is designed to provide plenty of power and torque.

As the assembly process nears completion, the builder takes the opportunity to inspect the motor block for any signs of damage or wear. This involves checking the bearings for proper alignment and clearance, as well as ensuring that all bolts are securely tightened in place.

Finally, with the motor block assembled and all components properly installed, the builder is ready to move on to the next stage of the project. In this case, the focus will be on installing new oil seals and completing any additional modifications necessary for optimal performance. The builder takes a moment to admire their handiwork, knowing that they have successfully assembled a motor block from scratch.

The Builder's Toolbox: Specialized Tools for Motor Assembly

Assembling a motor block requires a range of specialized tools to ensure proper installation and alignment of components. In this instance, the builder has found success with a few key tools, including plasti gauge and brake cleaner.

Plasti gauge is an essential tool for ensuring proper clearance between bearings and other components. By using this tool, the builder can accurately measure the gap between the bearings and crankshaft or rod bearings, allowing for precise alignment and installation.

Brake cleaner, on the other hand, plays a critical role in cleaning and preparing surfaces for assembly. The builder uses brake cleaner to spray off the main bearings, removing any residue or debris that may interfere with the installation process. This ensures a smooth and even finish, making it easier to install components and maintain optimal performance.

The Importance of Proper Sealing: Oil Leaks and Performance Issues

One of the most critical aspects of motor assembly is ensuring proper sealing between components. Oil leaks can be catastrophic, causing damage to the engine and potentially leading to costly repairs.

In this instance, the builder has opted for new oil seals to replace old or damaged ones. By doing so, they are ensuring that the motor block is properly sealed, preventing oil leaks and potential performance issues. The builder takes a moment to inspect the seal installation, ensuring that it is secure and properly aligned.

The Benefits of Standard Size Bearings: A Simplified Assembly Process

In this instance, the builder has chosen to use standard size bearings instead of plasti gauge to measure clearance between components. While plasti gauge provides accurate measurements, standard size bearings offer a simplified assembly process.

By using standard size bearings, the builder can ensure that all components fit together without issue, eliminating the need for precise alignment and installation. This approach also reduces the risk of errors or misalignments, making it easier to complete the assembly process.

The Importance of Clutch and Flywheel Installation: Balancing Performance

Assembling a motor block requires attention to detail when it comes to clutch and flywheel installation. The clutch is responsible for transmitting power from the engine to the transmission, while the flywheel helps to balance the engine's rotation and ensure smooth operation.

In this instance, the builder has opted for a stage five clutch, which is designed to provide plenty of power and torque. By carefully installing the clutch and flywheel, the builder can ensure that the motor block operates smoothly and efficiently, providing optimal performance and efficiency.

The Final Touches: Completing the Motor Block Assembly

With all components properly installed, the builder takes a moment to inspect the motor block for any signs of damage or wear. This involves checking the bearings for proper alignment and clearance, as well as ensuring that all bolts are securely tightened in place.

Once the inspection is complete, the builder begins the final touches, including installing new oil seals and completing any additional modifications necessary for optimal performance. The builder takes a moment to admire their handiwork, knowing that they have successfully assembled a motor block from scratch.

The Next Step: Refining Performance and Efficiency

Assembling a motor block is just the first step in building a high-performance engine. In this instance, the builder will focus on refining performance and efficiency by making adjustments to the engine's calibration and tuning.

By carefully calibrating the engine's parameters, including ignition timing and fuel injection, the builder can optimize the engine's performance and efficiency. This may involve consulting technical manuals or seeking guidance from experienced builders or technicians.

The Finished Product: A High-Performance Engine

With the motor block assembly complete, the builder is now ready to take on the next stage of the project: refining performance and efficiency. By making adjustments to the engine's calibration and tuning, the builder can optimize the engine's performance and efficiency.

The finished product is a high-performance engine that is capable of delivering exceptional power and torque. The builder takes pride in their handiwork, knowing that they have successfully assembled a motor block from scratch and optimized its performance and efficiency.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enalright guys so today I'm fixing to get the block together for my WAGO over there right now I'm getting ready to notch the block I went to Harbor Freight today and got an electric die grinder so I've got some bits for it as well so what I just did for now is a I went ahead and marked with two lines with a sharpie where I need to kind of notch it out I just kind of place the rod down in there and marked on either side of it so I'm going to go ahead and knock that out with a die grinder along each cylinder on each side so once I do that I'll hopefully keep the rod from hitting on the edge of the block right there since these are the bigger h-beam rods they tend to hit on these so most of the time I guess with the D series when you put h-beam rods in there you got a notch um or else they will rub on the inside of the cylinder right here so that's what I'm going to do for right now go ahead and get the die grinder set up and get this notched out just got the block notched out I didn't really film any of it since I don't have anyone to help me film right now so I just went ahead and got it done and hopefully this is enough so that the rods don't fit but I really won't find out until I get it all put together and then just make sure it turns over okay but I'm pretty confident that I took out enough and every ship everything should clear just fine so I guess we'll see but first I'm going to take it outside and hose it off really good to get all the metal shavings out of there so I want to make sure I get all that cleaned out obviously then once I get done with that I'm going to start on the Pistons and rods so I'm going to get all the Pistons attached to the rods and start gapping the Rings and then once I get all that done then I can start putting the bearings in start assembling everything and then just checking to make sure nothing sitting on each other and it should be good to go so I already started to put one of these together I got the oil rings on there and the first bottom ring right here and what I did to measure this one I just just like we did on Charlie's just push them down in there and I was just using my angle grinder to grind off the ends there and then I just measured them with a feeler gauge but before I finish up all the rest I'm going to go ahead and put the little C clips in right here to hold the pin in there because I forgot to do that and might as well do that now before I try to get all the rings on there I'm just going to try to use these same pliers that Charlie made he sharpened the ends of them so that would fit into the ends of these see clips right here so hopefully I'll work for me that goes oh quiet do these things are a oh there we go got that side I just got to do the other side our little homemade snap ring pliers were pretty good I managed to get them all in so that was actually really easy and I went ahead and put all the oil rings as well so right now I'm gonna finish measuring all the rings like I said I'm going 20,000th on the bottom ring and 18-thousand s on the top so I'm just going to go ahead and get all those Rings gaps get them on all the Pistons and yeah should be good to go then I can slide them in and another thing I didn't mention when you put the rod on the piston you have to be careful which way it goes because there's these little tabs that catch on the rod bearings right here on the inside right there yeah right there got it focused on them those two little tabs need to be facing the exhaust side in the block and the piston also has to go in a certain way so you want to make sure that you got those on the right way as well on these Vitara pistons the arrow goes points to the so I just have to keep that in mind when I connected the rod to the piston all right so I got all the ring gaps good and I went ahead and put all the rings on all the Pistons and I went ahead and windowed them as well so what that is pretty sure we explain this in Charlie's too it's where the gap in the ring actually sits on the piston and Bret just helped me out with this so we just have the first gap here on the top ring then the second gap on the second ring right there and then this is the first oil ring gap right there and then the bottom will ring gap so he just told me to go to the corners like this and that's what I'm to do so I got all those set and now I just need to put the ring compressor on them and lube up the cylinders with some oil and then pop these guys in and then I can flip it over and start getting the crank together got all the Pistons in so what I'm going to do right now is take all of the main and rod bearings and I'm just going to go ahead and spray them off with some brake cleaner get any residue that might be on there off and then I'm also going to get a paper towel and get some brake cleaner on that as well and clean off any of these surfaces because oil like this one right here has some oil on it so I want to make sure I clean all that out of there because you don't want any oil in between this and the bearing nothing slippery because you want that bearing to not go anywhere and once I get everything cleaned off I'm going to set the main bearings in right here on this bottom half and put the rod bearings in this half of the rod right here set the crank down in there and then just kind of put everything together from there to make sure it kind of fits together right make sure everything seems fine normally like on my hatch I did plasti gauge all the bearing clearances so like once you put the bearings on put a little thing a plasti gauge and measure the measure the clearance in between the bearing and like the crank and then though in the clearance between the bearing and the rods as well but like on Charlie's we didn't even bother with that and everything I have is standard size anyway so I'm just going to kind of Yolo it and just not class you gauge it because I'm sure it will be fine but I guess if not then that's my mistake but so far all the motors we've put together if you just order standard size bearings on a standard size motor everything should just fit together so once I get everything cleaned off I will get the crank in there of all the rods torque down got the main bearing carriage thingy just tighten down right now it's not torqued yet we're just spinning it to make sure nothing's hitting and it seems to be good everything's clearing so now I'm just going to go ahead and torque this down and start putting it back together I got new main seals for the can't or crankshaft so got the new oil pump gotta throw all that on there alright so I'm also replacing the main seal on mine so I just got to get this old one out real quick just like that so we got everything torqued down got the oil pump on there this is a horbet oil pump that I got from Brent so everything's hooked up got the oil pickup and I put the main seal on there got the new one from O'Reilly's all I gotta do now is put the pan on and the bottom end is pretty much done I mean I still need to put like the pulley on and some other things but it's pretty much done once I get the pan on there so I'm gonna go ahead and zip the pan on real quick and then flip it over and I shouldn't need to get to the bottom of the motor from this point anymore alright guys I just got the Block back together so like I said all I really need to do now is put the crank pulley on and the block is pretty much complete I was gonna plug this hole right here because this is for the like it's a factory catch can or something and so it just pretty much catches extra oil or oil vapors and then just kind of returns them down into the block right there I believe but I know you can plug this hole if you plan on running an external catch can set up like I do on the hatch but I don't think I'm going to do that just yet so I'll probably put this ugly little box back on for now it should be fine but yeah block is pretty much all the way together and by the way I did get my flywheel it's in this box right here and the clutch which is over here so I did get these in actually pretty fast I was surprised so this is a stage five for puck clutch should be plenty to hold the power it's just an ebay one this thing was like let me think like 100 I think it was like 180 bucks for this clutch and then like another 90 bucks for the new flywheel so under 300 bucks for a new flywheel and a stage five clutch so I'm not complaining about that sorry if this video is a little boring I didn't really film a whole bunch like in detail I just kind of wanted to get it done but I mean you guys get the idea it's pretty similar to how we put Charlie's together but I am going to stop where I'm at tonight I think I got a lot done and I guess I'll see how far I get on it tomorrow\n"