Tub Shower Valve Mistakes and How You Can AVOID Them

**Avoiding Common Mistakes in Tub Shower Valve Installation**

When it comes to installing a tub shower valve, homeowners often make mistakes that can lead to costly repairs and wasted time. In this article, we will explore six common mistakes that homeowners make when installing tub shower valves and provide tips on how to avoid them.

**Choosing the Right Materials for the Job**

The first step in avoiding common mistakes is to choose the right materials for the job. When it comes to tub shower valve installation, the type of material you choose can make all the difference. In this project, we used 2x6 lumber for the backer board and tile attachment, as well as a 2x4 stud for the shelf support. We also used construction screws to secure the materials to the studs.

**Measuring and Marking**

To ensure accurate measurements and proper placement of the tub shower valve, it's essential to use a speed square to draw lines on the studs. This will help you determine the correct location and depth of the valve. We double-checked the valve's position by measuring it against the backer board and tile attachment.

**Shower Valve Height**

One of the most common mistakes homeowners make when installing tub shower valves is getting the height wrong. The copper tub spout should be about 4 inches above the tub deck to ensure there's enough room between the bottom of the spout and the tub for twisting and turning without hitting the tub. We placed a tape measure on the tub deck, raised the copper tub spout up to 4 inches, and checked that it was centered on the bath waist kit.

**Plumbing Connections**

When it comes to plumbing connections, homeowners often make mistakes when choosing the right type of tubing. PEX-A or PEX-B can be used for shower plumbing, but only copper should be used for the tub spout. We used PEX-A because it's more flexible than PEX-B and can bend without needing 90-degree fittings. However, we also need to avoid kinking the PEX-A tubing by making sure it's cut square and not bent in a way that will cause it to kink.

**Using Plumbing Tools Correctly**

Another common mistake homeowners make is using plumbing tools incorrectly. We used propex rings with PEX-A in the shower, which allow us to expand and contract the tube up to 5-6 times. However, we need to ensure that the ring is snug against the shoulder of the valve fitting before tightening it.

**Making a Blocking Plum for the Shower Drop**

To create a level surface for the shower head, we made a blocking plum using an 8-inch level and dropped it at the correct height. We also centered the drop ear on the valve to ensure proper placement of the shower head.

**Securing the Copper Tub Spout**

Finally, one of the most critical mistakes homeowners make when installing tub shower valves is not securing the copper tub spout properly. To avoid this mistake, we added wood blocking below the valve and used a copper tube strap to secure the spout in place. This ensures that the spout will not wiggle or become loose over time.

By following these tips and avoiding common mistakes, homeowners can ensure a successful tub shower valve installation that saves them time and money in the long run.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enin this video you'll see common tub shower valve mistakes and how to avoid them unfortunately many people install shower valves incorrectly and this causes water leaks and ugly tile installations today you'll learn how to avoid common mistakes and get a step-by-step plan that makes your tub shower valve installation easy and gives you a beautiful result in the end the first big mistake homeowners make is choosing the wrong valve your shower valve ought to last a very long time sadly that's not the case if you buy the wrong one I don't recommend cheap valves from Amazon or local home stores instead I buy shower valves from plumbing supply houses I buy them from build.com or supplyhouse.com in addition sticking with brand names is a good long-term investment for instance Delta shower valves warranty the cartridge as well as the trim parts like the tub spout escot in and showerhead over time this can save you a lot of money and aggravation furthermore the better the valve the more more likely the Trimm finish will last nobody should have to buy a new trim kit after only a few years but this is the risky take when buying a cheap Amazon valve here's a pro tip for tub shower valves get valves with the copper stub out pre-installed this saves you time and you won't have to solder copper to the bottom Port plus you can be sure the copper stub out will be centered on the tub drain trust me this is a huge advantage that you'll appreciate during the installation also get a valve that has the proper fit this Delta r10,000 Valve can be bought with PEX a or PEX B Barbed fittings and this means you don't have to thread fittings on for the PEX tubing once again this saves you time and money from the get-go so by choosing the right valve from the start you'll speed up your installation and you'll make your life a lot easier however you do need to avoid the next three mistakes to make it through your project unscathed the second biggest mistake is setting the shower valve to the wrong depth unfortunately this isn't isn't as straightforward as you'd think and definitely something even contractors might Overlook remember this important principle shower valve depth is critical for the tile shower wall if the valve is too deep you might not be able to put the trim on and if the valve is too shallow the trim will bottom out both situations would be very frustrating primarily since it's almost the last step in any tile shower so you don't want to make these mistakes I always consider the backer board Orient ation before setting the valve for instance in this shower I had to add 3/4 in strips of plywood to the studs this helped me bump out the wall and place the cie board on top of the tub flange by the way if you're wondering the board can definitely be above the flange I waterproofed it to the tub using thinset C fix and cie band but the details of how I did that are for a different tutorial the bottom line is this you need three things to set the valve to the right depth first you need to know the shower backer board thickness I was using 1/ inch cie board so that was easy to figure out second you need to know the tile shower wall thickness or have a tile sample and finally you need to guesstimate the thin set thickness for the tile so any tile is less than 3/8 in thick we'll probably use at most 1/8 in of mortar but if you dry fit the backer board and the tile on the studs that'll help you set the valve to the right depth I normally use either a 2x4 or a 2x6 for the tub shower valves I draw lines on the studs with my speed square then I secure the 2x4 to the studs with two 3in construction screws I use two screws on the left and two screws on the right then I double check the valv is at the right depth I dry fit the backer board and the tile against the plaster guard and if those are even or within an eighth of an inch I know the valve is at the correct depth and by the way this is for a Delta Valve the third biggest mistake homeowners make has to do with shower valve height I always get asked how far above the tub should a shower valve be and the answer is the copper tub spout should be about 4 in above the tub deck now here's the deal the Delta shower valve with the copper tub spout pre-installed makes this super easy I place the tape measure on the tub deck raised the copper tub spout up to 4 in and there you go that's the proper height of the valve 4 in is a good height because of the tub spout it ensures there will be enough room between the bottom of the spout and the tub so that when you twist the spout onto the adapter the spout won't hit the tub and it also won't look too far off the tub deck by the way I also always Center the valve on the bath waist kit as well as the drain the fourth big mistake homeowners make with shower valves is with the plumbing connections here's a common question I get can I use pecs for shower plumbing and the answer is yes PEX a or PEX B can be used for tub shower Val valves but only copper should be used for the tub spout and that's one reason I love the Delta valve with the copper already installed that said it's perfectly acceptable to use packs for the hot and cold water supplies I'm a big fan of PX a because it's more flexible than PEX B and this is a big Advantage for tight stud Bays like in this shower you can see how I can bend the PEX a without needing a 90° fitting that said the first Plumbing mistake is kinking the PC and still using it you can bend the pecs but if it Kinks You have to cut out that section the second Plumbing mistake is not cutting pecs properly I always make sure the pack is cut square and that way it'll fit tight up against the shower valve fittings the third plumbing mistake is using the plumbing tools incorrectly I use propex rings with PEX a in the shower and for the/ in PEX a I can expand the ring and the tube 5 to six times then I immediately push the ring and the tube onto the valve fitting I ensure the propex ring is snug up against the shoulder of the fitting and I hold it there for about 10 to 15 seconds once I have the hot and cold water supplies installed I do the Riser pipe and frequently I get asked if the Riser pipe can be PEX and the answer is yes because this valve already has a pexa fitting on the top so I used a 1/2-inch drop beer and I placed that at about 855 in off the subfloor this brings me to the fourth Plumbing mistake and that's not making the blocking Plum for the shower drop here I checked this using an 8 in level and it's important to have the drop ear Plum so that the shower arm is level for the shower head the fifth Plumbing mistake is not centering the drop ear for the shower head on the valve I always find the center of the tub and I place a drop ear at that Dimension then I screw the drop here to the blocking and get a measurement for the Riser this makes the Riser pipe insulation a lot easier I add the Riser pipe to the valve first again making sure the propex ring is against the shoulder of the top Port then I remove the drop ear from the blocking and install the pexa from the Riser pipe onto that the final step is to secure the drop here back onto that blocking the six Plumbing mistake is a critical one and it's not securing the copper tub spout if it's loose I added wood blocking just below the valve then I used a copper tube strap to secure the copper tub spout this makes the tub spout super secure so that it won't ever wiggle once it's inside the wall the main point of my tutorial is that you can avoid tub shower valve installation mistakes with a step-by-step plan this will help you avoid water leaks and save a lot of time and money in the long term if you're doing a bathroom a model like this and you want more tips and tricks visit home repair.com today thanks for watching and I'll see you in the next videoin this video you'll see common tub shower valve mistakes and how to avoid them unfortunately many people install shower valves incorrectly and this causes water leaks and ugly tile installations today you'll learn how to avoid common mistakes and get a step-by-step plan that makes your tub shower valve installation easy and gives you a beautiful result in the end the first big mistake homeowners make is choosing the wrong valve your shower valve ought to last a very long time sadly that's not the case if you buy the wrong one I don't recommend cheap valves from Amazon or local home stores instead I buy shower valves from plumbing supply houses I buy them from build.com or supplyhouse.com in addition sticking with brand names is a good long-term investment for instance Delta shower valves warranty the cartridge as well as the trim parts like the tub spout escot in and showerhead over time this can save you a lot of money and aggravation furthermore the better the valve the more more likely the Trimm finish will last nobody should have to buy a new trim kit after only a few years but this is the risky take when buying a cheap Amazon valve here's a pro tip for tub shower valves get valves with the copper stub out pre-installed this saves you time and you won't have to solder copper to the bottom Port plus you can be sure the copper stub out will be centered on the tub drain trust me this is a huge advantage that you'll appreciate during the installation also get a valve that has the proper fit this Delta r10,000 Valve can be bought with PEX a or PEX B Barbed fittings and this means you don't have to thread fittings on for the PEX tubing once again this saves you time and money from the get-go so by choosing the right valve from the start you'll speed up your installation and you'll make your life a lot easier however you do need to avoid the next three mistakes to make it through your project unscathed the second biggest mistake is setting the shower valve to the wrong depth unfortunately this isn't isn't as straightforward as you'd think and definitely something even contractors might Overlook remember this important principle shower valve depth is critical for the tile shower wall if the valve is too deep you might not be able to put the trim on and if the valve is too shallow the trim will bottom out both situations would be very frustrating primarily since it's almost the last step in any tile shower so you don't want to make these mistakes I always consider the backer board Orient ation before setting the valve for instance in this shower I had to add 3/4 in strips of plywood to the studs this helped me bump out the wall and place the cie board on top of the tub flange by the way if you're wondering the board can definitely be above the flange I waterproofed it to the tub using thinset C fix and cie band but the details of how I did that are for a different tutorial the bottom line is this you need three things to set the valve to the right depth first you need to know the shower backer board thickness I was using 1/ inch cie board so that was easy to figure out second you need to know the tile shower wall thickness or have a tile sample and finally you need to guesstimate the thin set thickness for the tile so any tile is less than 3/8 in thick we'll probably use at most 1/8 in of mortar but if you dry fit the backer board and the tile on the studs that'll help you set the valve to the right depth I normally use either a 2x4 or a 2x6 for the tub shower valves I draw lines on the studs with my speed square then I secure the 2x4 to the studs with two 3in construction screws I use two screws on the left and two screws on the right then I double check the valv is at the right depth I dry fit the backer board and the tile against the plaster guard and if those are even or within an eighth of an inch I know the valve is at the correct depth and by the way this is for a Delta Valve the third biggest mistake homeowners make has to do with shower valve height I always get asked how far above the tub should a shower valve be and the answer is the copper tub spout should be about 4 in above the tub deck now here's the deal the Delta shower valve with the copper tub spout pre-installed makes this super easy I place the tape measure on the tub deck raised the copper tub spout up to 4 in and there you go that's the proper height of the valve 4 in is a good height because of the tub spout it ensures there will be enough room between the bottom of the spout and the tub so that when you twist the spout onto the adapter the spout won't hit the tub and it also won't look too far off the tub deck by the way I also always Center the valve on the bath waist kit as well as the drain the fourth big mistake homeowners make with shower valves is with the plumbing connections here's a common question I get can I use pecs for shower plumbing and the answer is yes PEX a or PEX B can be used for tub shower Val valves but only copper should be used for the tub spout and that's one reason I love the Delta valve with the copper already installed that said it's perfectly acceptable to use packs for the hot and cold water supplies I'm a big fan of PX a because it's more flexible than PEX B and this is a big Advantage for tight stud Bays like in this shower you can see how I can bend the PEX a without needing a 90° fitting that said the first Plumbing mistake is kinking the PC and still using it you can bend the pecs but if it Kinks You have to cut out that section the second Plumbing mistake is not cutting pecs properly I always make sure the pack is cut square and that way it'll fit tight up against the shower valve fittings the third plumbing mistake is using the plumbing tools incorrectly I use propex rings with PEX a in the shower and for the/ in PEX a I can expand the ring and the tube 5 to six times then I immediately push the ring and the tube onto the valve fitting I ensure the propex ring is snug up against the shoulder of the fitting and I hold it there for about 10 to 15 seconds once I have the hot and cold water supplies installed I do the Riser pipe and frequently I get asked if the Riser pipe can be PEX and the answer is yes because this valve already has a pexa fitting on the top so I used a 1/2-inch drop beer and I placed that at about 855 in off the subfloor this brings me to the fourth Plumbing mistake and that's not making the blocking Plum for the shower drop here I checked this using an 8 in level and it's important to have the drop ear Plum so that the shower arm is level for the shower head the fifth Plumbing mistake is not centering the drop ear for the shower head on the valve I always find the center of the tub and I place a drop ear at that Dimension then I screw the drop here to the blocking and get a measurement for the Riser this makes the Riser pipe insulation a lot easier I add the Riser pipe to the valve first again making sure the propex ring is against the shoulder of the top Port then I remove the drop ear from the blocking and install the pexa from the Riser pipe onto that the final step is to secure the drop here back onto that blocking the six Plumbing mistake is a critical one and it's not securing the copper tub spout if it's loose I added wood blocking just below the valve then I used a copper tube strap to secure the copper tub spout this makes the tub spout super secure so that it won't ever wiggle once it's inside the wall the main point of my tutorial is that you can avoid tub shower valve installation mistakes with a step-by-step plan this will help you avoid water leaks and save a lot of time and money in the long term if you're doing a bathroom a model like this and you want more tips and tricks visit home repair.com today thanks for watching and I'll see you in the next video\n"