**Custom Pistons for Your 2JZ Engine: A Guide to Choosing the Right Part**

When it comes to building an engine, one of the most critical components is the piston. A good piston can make all the difference in terms of performance and durability, while a poor one can lead to costly repairs down the line. In this article, we'll take a closer look at three custom pistons designed specifically for 2JZ engines: the Diamond Pride 96mm piston, the RS 1600 piston, and the RS 2000 piston.

**Diamond Pride 96mm Piston**

The Diamond Pride 96mm piston is a great option for builders looking to add some performance to their engine. This piston features horizontal gas ports, which allow for improved combustion efficiency and reduced emissions. The pistons also have coated skirts, which help to reduce friction and improve wear resistance. Additionally, the pistons have underhead milling, which removes unnecessary material from the bottom of the piston, making it lighter and more efficient.

One of the things that sets this piston apart is its fast turnaround time and excellent value. According to the manufacturer, Diamond Pride takes pride in providing a quick turnaround on custom parts while maintaining an affordable price point. This makes it an attractive option for builders who need a high-performance piston without breaking the bank.

**RS 1600 Piston**

The RS 1600 piston is designed for builders looking to push their engines into the 1200-1600 horsepower range. This piston features horizontal gas ports, which are ideal for running on pump fuel and don't require the same level of setup as vertical gas ports. It also has a cp groove at the top, which allows for additional combustion to occur behind the top ring and push it against the cylinder wall.

The RS 1600 piston is a go-to part for builders in this horsepower range, and we can attest to its quality. The pistons are forged from high-strength steel and feature dual pin oilers, which provide excellent lubrication and cooling. The coated skirt adds an extra layer of protection against wear and tear, making it a reliable choice for demanding engines.

**RS 2000 Piston**

The RS 2000 piston is designed for builders who want to push their engines into the high-stakes world of nitrous oxide racing or track-focused builds. This piston features horizontal gas ports from top to bottom, which allow for maximum combustion efficiency and power output. It also has a vertical gas port at the bottom, which provides additional compression and power.

However, this piston is not suitable for builders who want to reach higher horsepower ranges. The RS 2000 is designed for aluminum rod dry sump setups with big turbochargers and high-RPM engines. Its heavy-duty design makes it perfect for engines that will be subjected to extreme stress and abuse.

One thing to note about the RS 2000 piston is its unique coating. Unlike other pistons on the market, this one features a long-haul coating that's designed for durability rather than break-in. This coating provides excellent wear resistance and helps to prevent metal-to-metal contact, making it an attractive option for builders who want a reliable piston.

**Piston Pins: A Critical Component**

A good piston pin is essential for ensuring the reliability and performance of your engine. Piston pins are responsible for holding the piston in place, and a weak or poorly designed pin can lead to costly repairs down the line.

When it comes to choosing a piston pin, there's no substitute for strength and durability. We recommend using a through-hardened pin with a wall thickness of at least 225,000. These pins are stronger and more resistant to wear than surface-hardened pins, making them ideal for high-performance engines.

We also recommend coating the piston pin with DLC (diamond-like carbon) to provide excellent low-friction properties and wear resistance. The DLC coating offers a large amount of protection against surfaces coming into contact, which can lead to scarring and wear over time. This makes it an attractive option for builders who want to minimize maintenance and repairs.

In conclusion, choosing the right piston for your 2JZ engine is crucial for ensuring optimal performance and durability. By considering factors such as horsepower range, fuel type, and engine design, you can select a piston that meets your needs and provides reliable results. Whether you're building a high-performance engine or simply want to squeeze out every last bit of power from your existing engine, the right piston can make all the difference.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhi i'm jay from real street performance today we're going to talk about selecting the correct set of pistons for your 2jz build at the time of this video there's nearly 300 piston options and if you use the drop down menu correctly you can quickly navigate to the right set of pistons for your build by the end of this video you'll be able to make an educated decision on what piston is right for you based off of engine size bore size compression ratio and a host of other options although we're talking about turbocharged engines the displacement of the engine does affect the engine's output with great influence the larger the engine the faster it's going to spool the turbo and the more average power it will make if you ask yourself the question should you be interested in a larger than stock displacement engine the answers are pretty easy what you're going to get if you increase the stroke of the engine is an engine that has more average power so that means instead of that thing needing to be right at 6000 rpm to be able to get into the throttle and have the turbo respond quickly and have a fast car right then you gain flexibility so you have this thing that makes power around 4500 whereas before it was just kind of dead the additional displacement will spool the turbo sooner adding more low-speed torque and then perpetuating up from there for me personally i was sold on the strokers early on when i first put my anthracite car together it was a 94 millimeter brian crawer crank and it helped mitigate some of that lag so i would take somebody for a ride in the car and before you had this very lazy unassuming boring thing that turned into a kind of a madman when it was up on boost when the turbo spooled but off of boost it just wasn't very cool and with the stroker it added this personality that now that the power came on sooner and smoother which made it easier for me to mitigate traction and the car was just more enjoyable to drive around because it would get in the booth sooner and when it wasn't in boost it had more torque now increased displacement doesn't come without some downsides and the first one is costs these are aftermarket crankshafts they're extremely nice most of them have improved oiling but they come at a heavy price so that could be enough when you're shopping for engine parts that say nah i'm going to take that option off the plate if you can work through the cost option and you're ready to continue to have an increased displacement engine the next downside would be there are stroke configurations that are not right for 8 500 plus rpm now some of the numbers i'm going to give here are just based off of my experience it's not like you turn an engine 90 100 rpm and it just shatters into pieces i mean i've turned 94 millimeter is 10 000 rpm and they didn't blow up they just don't live as easily because of the internal leverage and having that piston pull down further out of the bore and the rod having to be more angled to push it back up the board it's just internal friction it's it's that simple it's why super high rpm engines have low stroke and low rpm engines have high stroke what we're trying to do is find the best balance we can in the rpm window we're going to operate the engine in if you're coming to me for advice and you have a synchronized transmission and a stock style oiling system but you have the budget for the stroker i feel completely confident saying get into that 94 millimeter crank it's gonna make for a better averaging more enjoyable car on a day-to-day basis if you're a guy that has a dry sump and a dog box or sequential trans or a dry sump and a very loose torque converter that you're going to be operating the engine say 8 000 rpm to 10 000 rpm then i don't really want you in a 94 millimeter crank i would say get into a 90 millimeter crank or a stock 86 millimeter crank the reason why we select the engine configuration first is it dictates where the compression height is on the piston so the compression height is the center line of the pin bore to the top of the piston if the compression height is wrong the piston can be down below the deck of the engine block or up above the deck of the engine block either case doesn't work out so the stroke and the rod length dictate the compression height of the piston along with the deck height of the block so select your configuration that narrows your field down and you can move on to bore size and compression ratio moving into bore size the 2jz comes with an 86 millimeter bore it can be bored out to 87.5 but you wouldn't want to go from 86 to 87.5 in one shot because you wouldn't leave any rebuilds in the future another thing is the more material that you remove from the bore the thinner the cylinder wall becomes in order for that cylinder to stay round and keep shape during the dynamic state of the engine running you want to remove the least amount of material it takes to get a perfectly round hole that's the right size for your new pistons and has the right finish for your new rings supplying lubrication to the ring set and the piston and providing a good seal for the engine moving forward it is my opinion along with many other engine builders that you wouldn't take a well-used block and put a new set of standard sized pistons in it just getting the home finish right is going to be one to two thousands if there's no scoring so you end up with this larger than necessary larger than recommended larger than what you should be allowing piston wall clearance which is going to create an engine that is noisy has oil consumption problems and does not have very good ring seal if you're working on an air compressor that blew up putting a stock piston back in the air compressor is okay it has one job it's just going to do its thing as an air compressor we're talking about building a performance engine and we should do the steps accordingly to have a successful program now that we're through engine configuration and bore size we can talk about compression ratio if you go back in time 40 or 50 years engine compression ratios were lower because the fuel quality was not that good as fuel has gotten better in japan introduced turbocharged cars to the u.s market through the 80s and 90s most of them settled on a high 7 to mid 8 compression ratio and the reason why they did this is they needed the engine to live not only through warranty but beyond so the factory 2jz is an eight and a half to one compression ratio and if you use premium fuel in it it's a really hard engine to tear up so if you're rebuilding your 2jz and you're going to be using say u.s market pump fuel the factory compression ratio is a really nice place to be if you're going to marry a alcohol-based fuel like ethanol or methanol you can step that compression ratio right up to 10 to 1 the engine will make more power at the same boost level because you've got more cylinder pressure and more heat in the cylinder but what you don't want to do is build a 10 to 1 2jz that you're going to run on us market pump fuel because by the time you get the boost level low enough that the engine isn't going to be knock prone you'll be making less power than had you just left the stock compression ratio and let the thing eat 18 or 20 pounds of boost on pump gas so you're balancing this act but you're going to pick compression ratio based off of the fuel you're going to run in the engine you don't want to build an engine that you're stuck to one fuel and can't make a change because then if that fuel becomes inaccessible or expensive what will you do with the car this is a long haul question you have to think hard about this and you have to make the right decision here on the table i've grabbed some pistons out of inventory we can kind of look over them and see the differences it's worth noting that these are all full skirt pistons none of these have a shrunk down slipper skirt design that you would see in a lightweight max effort naturally aspirated piston and the reason being is you want a turbo piston or a supercharger piston to be pretty beefy with a lot of material and its ability to keep shape small skirt pistons like those slipper designs they're good in any engines but when you're dealing with the loads inside of a boosted engine a round part is a longer living part moving through that we can talk about what's here on the table this is a je ultra they have done a really nice job with these parts it comes with a horizontal gas port comes with a coated crown and a coated skirt it's a nice part high value part a lot of the things that if you went into a full custom piston you'd option for is in a shelf component here in this je ultra this is a manly it comes with a coated skirt it's done on a very high level machine that if you look there's some notches in the undersides of the skirts and that's how the piston is held and this piston does not come out of the machine a bunch of times and manley's reasoning is that all of the machining parameters can be held to a better standard if the part doesn't get taken out of one machine and put into another this is a proven part we used this part and helped develop it in a engine dyno video many years ago and i've taken it to bonneville and gone over 300 miles an hour with it it's a tough part it's a good resource for all of us the next piston is the wiseco this is the only part on the table that's hard anodized so if you look at it it's got quite a different color than the other pistons on the bench top fuel has been using hard anodizing for a number of years it helps in a few different ways the first train of thought is that it prevents micro welding in the ring land so any friction welding that can occur from the ring chattering in the ring land it protects against that it rejects heat out of the piston into the cylinder wall and into the combustion chamber where they think helps the efficiency of the engine and it also is an overall hard coat on the piston making it a harder part all around it also has a coated skirt and it has these what they call anti-detonation grooves on top between the top of the piston and the top ring it's got these really small grooves and what they're thinking is that it slows down the out of control pressure ratios that happen during detonation and pressure waves traveling down the sides of the piston that can damage the top ring the next part on the table is this cp shelf piston these are really nice parts uh don't let the fact that it doesn't have a coating on it deter you from having confidence in this brand this has been a go-to brand of mine since the early 2000s and it's the only shelf part of the table that has dual pin oilers which is a great option for a forced inducted part so it's going to be using oil from the oil ring directed right into the piston pin bore and that will help keep gallium from happening on the pin as the part changes shape during operation these are really really nice pistons a lot of people equate them to the jewelry of pistons because the finish work is incredibly nice they really do a knockout job out there at cp the next piston we'll look at is a diamond this is a custom part it's going to go into a 2jz with a 96 millimeter crank this piston has horizontal gas ports a coated skirt it has underhead milling and what they're doing there is just removing what they value as unneeded weight out of the bottom of the piston these are nice parts and the guys up there at diamond pride themselves on a fast turnaround on custom parts while providing an excellent value the next one on the lineup is our rs 1600 this is the part that i'm proud of to say the least we've been building a lot of engines over the years here a lot of 2jz's and a lot of abuse and this part's been really really solid to me for those guys that want you know 1200 to 1600 horsepower this is a go-to part it's really a tough forging horizontal gas ports so if you're running it on pump gas you don't have to worry about setting up the gas ports like you would on a vertical gas port and it also has the cp groove at the top which they're just allowing additional combustion to get behind that top ring and push it against the cylinder wall again with the dual pin oilers and a coated skirt this is a nice part and if you're in that 1200 horsepower 1600 horsepower range this is a go-to for me and i can't say it will let you down this is a very solid piston the last one is the rs2000 i would say that this is not for guys that are going to be making you know 1500 horsepower you can do that with this piston just fine this is for guys that are aluminum rod dry sump big turbo chargers 10 000 rpm the guys that are really really going to be bringing the abuse you wouldn't want to use this part in a lesser engine because it's it's a heavy part that's designed to deal with a heavy level of abuse it also has a coated skirt and it has vertical gas porch which if you look at that the gas ports are from the top of the piston down to the top ring and with an alcohol-based fuel this is the way that i prefer to do it if you're going to be using a pump fuel i would have in horizontal gas ports i wanted to jump back onto coatings for a second not all of these pistons have the same style coating the cp coating is more for break-in and conforming to the cylinder wall whereas this mainly has like a long haul coating that the oem started to adapt in the late 90s early 2000s the skirt coat is a valuable thing anytime that you have lubrication that is marginal or displaced a coating can buy you time before you have metal and metal contact so any of these pistons that have a skirt coat on there take that as an add-on it is a benefit to you and and worth having as you build your engine now that we've covered pistons let's take a minute to talk about piston pins piss and pin job is pretty simple holds the piston to the connecting rod in an engine like a 2jz that's going to make 1000 horsepower or more very easily you want to make sure that you're using a pin that's strong enough that it's not going to bend or break i wouldn't use a piston pin with a wall thickness thinner than say 225 thousands if you're going to be using the engine in the thousand to 1200 horsepower range above that i like the insurance of these trend pins this is a custom piston pin and it's a through hardened pin instead of a surface hardened pin so if you had a surface hardened part and a through hardened part in the same wall thickness the through hardened part is considerably stronger they're available coated or uncoated and we order ours with a dlc coating the dlc coating offers a incredible low friction coefficient so it's a very slippery coating it's a very hard coating and it offers excellent wear resistance so while you're running the engine and the part is flexing like this you can get going in the pin boards which we've seen over the years in a number of engines well with a coated pin you just polishes that pin board up so when the lubrication is displaced because the parts are flexing the dlc coating offers a large amount of protection from those surfaces that are touching from becoming scarred and becoming wear items where they can then start to deteriorate so it's a good value adder inside of your engine i hope this information has been helpful and you're able to select the pistons that you need for your build i know that that nearly 300 number is pretty complicated and as you narrow it down you'll be able to use the information that we've provided to make a good decision if you still need some help feel free to reach out to us it's why we're here youhi i'm jay from real street performance today we're going to talk about selecting the correct set of pistons for your 2jz build at the time of this video there's nearly 300 piston options and if you use the drop down menu correctly you can quickly navigate to the right set of pistons for your build by the end of this video you'll be able to make an educated decision on what piston is right for you based off of engine size bore size compression ratio and a host of other options although we're talking about turbocharged engines the displacement of the engine does affect the engine's output with great influence the larger the engine the faster it's going to spool the turbo and the more average power it will make if you ask yourself the question should you be interested in a larger than stock displacement engine the answers are pretty easy what you're going to get if you increase the stroke of the engine is an engine that has more average power so that means instead of that thing needing to be right at 6000 rpm to be able to get into the throttle and have the turbo respond quickly and have a fast car right then you gain flexibility so you have this thing that makes power around 4500 whereas before it was just kind of dead the additional displacement will spool the turbo sooner adding more low-speed torque and then perpetuating up from there for me personally i was sold on the strokers early on when i first put my anthracite car together it was a 94 millimeter brian crawer crank and it helped mitigate some of that lag so i would take somebody for a ride in the car and before you had this very lazy unassuming boring thing that turned into a kind of a madman when it was up on boost when the turbo spooled but off of boost it just wasn't very cool and with the stroker it added this personality that now that the power came on sooner and smoother which made it easier for me to mitigate traction and the car was just more enjoyable to drive around because it would get in the booth sooner and when it wasn't in boost it had more torque now increased displacement doesn't come without some downsides and the first one is costs these are aftermarket crankshafts they're extremely nice most of them have improved oiling but they come at a heavy price so that could be enough when you're shopping for engine parts that say nah i'm going to take that option off the plate if you can work through the cost option and you're ready to continue to have an increased displacement engine the next downside would be there are stroke configurations that are not right for 8 500 plus rpm now some of the numbers i'm going to give here are just based off of my experience it's not like you turn an engine 90 100 rpm and it just shatters into pieces i mean i've turned 94 millimeter is 10 000 rpm and they didn't blow up they just don't live as easily because of the internal leverage and having that piston pull down further out of the bore and the rod having to be more angled to push it back up the board it's just internal friction it's it's that simple it's why super high rpm engines have low stroke and low rpm engines have high stroke what we're trying to do is find the best balance we can in the rpm window we're going to operate the engine in if you're coming to me for advice and you have a synchronized transmission and a stock style oiling system but you have the budget for the stroker i feel completely confident saying get into that 94 millimeter crank it's gonna make for a better averaging more enjoyable car on a day-to-day basis if you're a guy that has a dry sump and a dog box or sequential trans or a dry sump and a very loose torque converter that you're going to be operating the engine say 8 000 rpm to 10 000 rpm then i don't really want you in a 94 millimeter crank i would say get into a 90 millimeter crank or a stock 86 millimeter crank the reason why we select the engine configuration first is it dictates where the compression height is on the piston so the compression height is the center line of the pin bore to the top of the piston if the compression height is wrong the piston can be down below the deck of the engine block or up above the deck of the engine block either case doesn't work out so the stroke and the rod length dictate the compression height of the piston along with the deck height of the block so select your configuration that narrows your field down and you can move on to bore size and compression ratio moving into bore size the 2jz comes with an 86 millimeter bore it can be bored out to 87.5 but you wouldn't want to go from 86 to 87.5 in one shot because you wouldn't leave any rebuilds in the future another thing is the more material that you remove from the bore the thinner the cylinder wall becomes in order for that cylinder to stay round and keep shape during the dynamic state of the engine running you want to remove the least amount of material it takes to get a perfectly round hole that's the right size for your new pistons and has the right finish for your new rings supplying lubrication to the ring set and the piston and providing a good seal for the engine moving forward it is my opinion along with many other engine builders that you wouldn't take a well-used block and put a new set of standard sized pistons in it just getting the home finish right is going to be one to two thousands if there's no scoring so you end up with this larger than necessary larger than recommended larger than what you should be allowing piston wall clearance which is going to create an engine that is noisy has oil consumption problems and does not have very good ring seal if you're working on an air compressor that blew up putting a stock piston back in the air compressor is okay it has one job it's just going to do its thing as an air compressor we're talking about building a performance engine and we should do the steps accordingly to have a successful program now that we're through engine configuration and bore size we can talk about compression ratio if you go back in time 40 or 50 years engine compression ratios were lower because the fuel quality was not that good as fuel has gotten better in japan introduced turbocharged cars to the u.s market through the 80s and 90s most of them settled on a high 7 to mid 8 compression ratio and the reason why they did this is they needed the engine to live not only through warranty but beyond so the factory 2jz is an eight and a half to one compression ratio and if you use premium fuel in it it's a really hard engine to tear up so if you're rebuilding your 2jz and you're going to be using say u.s market pump fuel the factory compression ratio is a really nice place to be if you're going to marry a alcohol-based fuel like ethanol or methanol you can step that compression ratio right up to 10 to 1 the engine will make more power at the same boost level because you've got more cylinder pressure and more heat in the cylinder but what you don't want to do is build a 10 to 1 2jz that you're going to run on us market pump fuel because by the time you get the boost level low enough that the engine isn't going to be knock prone you'll be making less power than had you just left the stock compression ratio and let the thing eat 18 or 20 pounds of boost on pump gas so you're balancing this act but you're going to pick compression ratio based off of the fuel you're going to run in the engine you don't want to build an engine that you're stuck to one fuel and can't make a change because then if that fuel becomes inaccessible or expensive what will you do with the car this is a long haul question you have to think hard about this and you have to make the right decision here on the table i've grabbed some pistons out of inventory we can kind of look over them and see the differences it's worth noting that these are all full skirt pistons none of these have a shrunk down slipper skirt design that you would see in a lightweight max effort naturally aspirated piston and the reason being is you want a turbo piston or a supercharger piston to be pretty beefy with a lot of material and its ability to keep shape small skirt pistons like those slipper designs they're good in any engines but when you're dealing with the loads inside of a boosted engine a round part is a longer living part moving through that we can talk about what's here on the table this is a je ultra they have done a really nice job with these parts it comes with a horizontal gas port comes with a coated crown and a coated skirt it's a nice part high value part a lot of the things that if you went into a full custom piston you'd option for is in a shelf component here in this je ultra this is a manly it comes with a coated skirt it's done on a very high level machine that if you look there's some notches in the undersides of the skirts and that's how the piston is held and this piston does not come out of the machine a bunch of times and manley's reasoning is that all of the machining parameters can be held to a better standard if the part doesn't get taken out of one machine and put into another this is a proven part we used this part and helped develop it in a engine dyno video many years ago and i've taken it to bonneville and gone over 300 miles an hour with it it's a tough part it's a good resource for all of us the next piston is the wiseco this is the only part on the table that's hard anodized so if you look at it it's got quite a different color than the other pistons on the bench top fuel has been using hard anodizing for a number of years it helps in a few different ways the first train of thought is that it prevents micro welding in the ring land so any friction welding that can occur from the ring chattering in the ring land it protects against that it rejects heat out of the piston into the cylinder wall and into the combustion chamber where they think helps the efficiency of the engine and it also is an overall hard coat on the piston making it a harder part all around it also has a coated skirt and it has these what they call anti-detonation grooves on top between the top of the piston and the top ring it's got these really small grooves and what they're thinking is that it slows down the out of control pressure ratios that happen during detonation and pressure waves traveling down the sides of the piston that can damage the top ring the next part on the table is this cp shelf piston these are really nice parts uh don't let the fact that it doesn't have a coating on it deter you from having confidence in this brand this has been a go-to brand of mine since the early 2000s and it's the only shelf part of the table that has dual pin oilers which is a great option for a forced inducted part so it's going to be using oil from the oil ring directed right into the piston pin bore and that will help keep gallium from happening on the pin as the part changes shape during operation these are really really nice pistons a lot of people equate them to the jewelry of pistons because the finish work is incredibly nice they really do a knockout job out there at cp the next piston we'll look at is a diamond this is a custom part it's going to go into a 2jz with a 96 millimeter crank this piston has horizontal gas ports a coated skirt it has underhead milling and what they're doing there is just removing what they value as unneeded weight out of the bottom of the piston these are nice parts and the guys up there at diamond pride themselves on a fast turnaround on custom parts while providing an excellent value the next one on the lineup is our rs 1600 this is the part that i'm proud of to say the least we've been building a lot of engines over the years here a lot of 2jz's and a lot of abuse and this part's been really really solid to me for those guys that want you know 1200 to 1600 horsepower this is a go-to part it's really a tough forging horizontal gas ports so if you're running it on pump gas you don't have to worry about setting up the gas ports like you would on a vertical gas port and it also has the cp groove at the top which they're just allowing additional combustion to get behind that top ring and push it against the cylinder wall again with the dual pin oilers and a coated skirt this is a nice part and if you're in that 1200 horsepower 1600 horsepower range this is a go-to for me and i can't say it will let you down this is a very solid piston the last one is the rs2000 i would say that this is not for guys that are going to be making you know 1500 horsepower you can do that with this piston just fine this is for guys that are aluminum rod dry sump big turbo chargers 10 000 rpm the guys that are really really going to be bringing the abuse you wouldn't want to use this part in a lesser engine because it's it's a heavy part that's designed to deal with a heavy level of abuse it also has a coated skirt and it has vertical gas porch which if you look at that the gas ports are from the top of the piston down to the top ring and with an alcohol-based fuel this is the way that i prefer to do it if you're going to be using a pump fuel i would have in horizontal gas ports i wanted to jump back onto coatings for a second not all of these pistons have the same style coating the cp coating is more for break-in and conforming to the cylinder wall whereas this mainly has like a long haul coating that the oem started to adapt in the late 90s early 2000s the skirt coat is a valuable thing anytime that you have lubrication that is marginal or displaced a coating can buy you time before you have metal and metal contact so any of these pistons that have a skirt coat on there take that as an add-on it is a benefit to you and and worth having as you build your engine now that we've covered pistons let's take a minute to talk about piston pins piss and pin job is pretty simple holds the piston to the connecting rod in an engine like a 2jz that's going to make 1000 horsepower or more very easily you want to make sure that you're using a pin that's strong enough that it's not going to bend or break i wouldn't use a piston pin with a wall thickness thinner than say 225 thousands if you're going to be using the engine in the thousand to 1200 horsepower range above that i like the insurance of these trend pins this is a custom piston pin and it's a through hardened pin instead of a surface hardened pin so if you had a surface hardened part and a through hardened part in the same wall thickness the through hardened part is considerably stronger they're available coated or uncoated and we order ours with a dlc coating the dlc coating offers a incredible low friction coefficient so it's a very slippery coating it's a very hard coating and it offers excellent wear resistance so while you're running the engine and the part is flexing like this you can get going in the pin boards which we've seen over the years in a number of engines well with a coated pin you just polishes that pin board up so when the lubrication is displaced because the parts are flexing the dlc coating offers a large amount of protection from those surfaces that are touching from becoming scarred and becoming wear items where they can then start to deteriorate so it's a good value adder inside of your engine i hope this information has been helpful and you're able to select the pistons that you need for your build i know that that nearly 300 number is pretty complicated and as you narrow it down you'll be able to use the information that we've provided to make a good decision if you still need some help feel free to reach out to us it's why we're here you\n"