I'll start by fixing this Kia. The whole can then pour the cool one in that came out and we'll start her up and pray the sealer works now what you want to do now is let it idle about half an hour shut it off the ceiling can do its thing let it sit for a couple hours and then basically drive it around and see what happens. Okay I got a transmission problem with this Kia check engine lights coming on well I got my scan tool in the dash it says P0741 torque converter clutch problem slipping or off so that's actually a very common problem with these keys as they age.

On a scan tool I looked at the recorded data for the trouble code and it showed that it happened at about 56 miles an hour and what's happening is the torque converter is either slipping or the lock up is not working right at higher speeds modern vehicles have automatic transmissions that get about the same gas mileage as a standard all automatic transmissions have a little slippage in them so when you come to a stop and you step on the brakes the engine doesn't stall in a standard transmission if you did it the engine would stall. You have to push down the clutch put it neutral automatic transmissions don't work that way they had some slippage but decades ago they started putting these torque converter lockups in the automatic transmission so when you're on the highway speed and this one was 56 miles an hour the solenoid locks it in place so there's no slippage at all. So you get the same gas mileage as you would in a standard one.

Well this system's starting to break down needless to say even in this 12 year old Kia it's all computer control there could be a ton of things wrong but often it's just the fluid i know this particular vehicle got over a hundred thousand miles of fluids never been changed so i'm assuming it's dirty first we're gonna check and see if it's low we start it up with the engine in park then we check the fluid reach in here wipe it off put it back in then check the level in this case it's full where it should be but as you can see it's also pretty dirty it's supposed to be red so we're going to take a gamble on this one change the fluid and add some of this lucas additive.

As you can see it says it's stop slipped i've used this stuff for years and then older transmissions like this i've often gotten lucky and it actually solved the problem. That just started out this guy's the original owner of the vehicle and it's the first time this coat has ever tripped so i'll jack it up in here and crawl under with a drain pan. Well forget this drain pan because as you can see up here the drain bolt right here is right above the frame so it's going to splatter all over so we need a bigger pan luckily i got a big one just for that so it can take a lot more fluid from a bigger area out of the way now these are often hard to get to so get a giant wrench that fits and a big hammer to hit it with then it wicks off.

Now you take it off probably going to make a big mess but that's life off it comes there it goes all over the place just like i said that's why you need the big pan brilliant design as you can see on the drain plug it's magnetic there's some little black filings on it not really bad but it shows there's wear inside then once it's done draining you put the drain plug back in and it goes and then tighten it up. Then since we already checked it with the gauge and it was full we measure how much is in here and put the same amount right back in as i said before i'm going to use the lucas chance fix 2 instead of one of the quartz i'm going to put this in drive it and see what happens so i'll pull out the stick put it in the funnel and pour in all the fluids and of course remember to put the transmission fluid in too then get rid of the funnel put the dipstick back in and don't forget to recycle the transmission fluid.

Then let the jack down and take it for a good half hour spin don't forget to close the hood now only time's going to tell if this actually fixes it but from my experience with these kiosks since it's the first time it happened fluid's never been changed i'd say i have at least a 50 chance that it'll stop slipping and tripping that coat. Now if the coat keeps coming back that means it's wearing out inside mechanically and it's going to cost a small fortune probably more than the 12 year old vehicle it's worth but this often fixes them for quite some time so if you never want to miss another one of my new car repair videos remember to ring that bell.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: ennow the first one is when you turn your car's key to start it and all you get is a click click click now that's a very common problem that has to do with the starter when you turn the key to start it it activates the solenoid the solenoid then pushes the bendix gear here out and when it goes out here then it meshes with the flywheel on the engine and spins the engine by the electric motor here turning and spinning it now all you hear is a click when you turn the starter and the car doesn't spin around that means you got a problem can be more than one problem that's why you got to figure it out if you have a battery that is low on electricity it has enough electricity to make the little solenoid go click in but not enough electricity to make the motor spin the engine first thing you do is try to jump start the car if it jump starts great then you just know you need another battery if there's any problem with the wiring you can do the same thing sometimes going click when you turn it be a loose battery terminal grab those terminals if you can wiggle around take them off clean them and put them on tight a lot of times you'll find it'll start right up again now if none of those work then it's often a worn out starter the motor won't spin because it's worn out inside now the next common noise that occurs you turn your steering wheel while you're taking corners and in the front you hear clicky click any click click it click any click and then when you go straight the noise stops with that clicking noise when you turn and drive is often a bad cd joint you can see here here's a broken one you see the rubber's ripped the grease leaks out and then this collects because it's not lubricated anymore now that's very easy to check you just jack up the car just enough so you can look under then turn the wheel all the way so the tires as far as it goes and just go under here and look there's the cv joint right here you can see this one's not ripped it's completely all together when you see it ripped like this and the grease is all leaked out you know it's time for a new one and here's a tip now years ago we mechanics used to take the drive shaft apart buy a new cv joint and boot kit put it back together and put it on but these days there's very good aftermarket brand new axle assemblies so you just buy the whole thing and then instead of having to take it all apart and mess with all the bearings you just take the old shaft out and put the new shaft in i got plenty of video showing you how to do it because if you're going to buy the dealer oem joint alone that'll often cost three times what the whole axle assembly is most places you get an axle anywhere from 59 to 69 dollars brand new and they work perfectly fine so there's no sense attempting to fix the old one now the next noise you'll often hear is the squealing noise either when you start the car or if you accelerate or if it's raining outside and it starts screaming that's often a bad fan belt yeah it shows my age they used to call them fan belts because they drove the fan that cooled the radiator if you have a loose or worn fan belt it'll squeal when you start it up first thing before it warms up it'll often squeal when you accelerate because that's straining the engine and then the belt will squeal or it'll often squeal hit rain water rain water hits it and the water makes it slip a little and squeal so here's how you can tell what it is you can use some of the spray silicone lube and with the engine turned off go to the fan belt area if you suspect that's where the noise is coming from side of the fan belt like here you spray it all over up and down on the inside yeah it was messy there but you just spray the inside and spray the inside of the pulleys that it drives over now spraying the silicone on isn't going to fix anything if it's squeaking and you spray it on and you hear the squeak stops the belt is worn or it's loose and from my experience today you're best just to replace them because sure my old 94 celica the belts are manually adjustable as they wear you have to loosen bolts and then tighten them by moving the alternator then tighten them up and as they were you got to re-tension them every once in a while but most modern cars have automatic tensioners and most only have one drive belt big giant thing so it's a good idea whenever it starts making noise just change the thing out especially if it's four or five years old who wants to be stranded because of a stupid fan belt and here's another tip don't go out and buy the cheapest fan belt you can possibly get unless you go to sell the car right away because the quality fan belts last longer i found in the past i used to go and buy them at the dealer they lasted the absolute longest but now there's companies like goodyear and many other ones out there that make really good belts that last just as long if not even longer than the original equipment but don't go buy the cheapest one if you go to all of our store and i said well we got this one belt for 19.95 and the other one's 29.95 buy the 29.95 one if it's got a quality brand name on it because you don't want it to wear these things can last a long time i've seen them last 80 90 000 miles so when you do change it put a good one in so you don't have a problem now the next common noise that you'll often hear you're driving down the road and every time you turn the steering wheel you hear that's inside the power steering system it's making a noise because when you turn the wheel the power steering pump has to send all its pressure to boost the opposite side that you're turning to to push harder to give you the power assist now sometimes it's as simple as you just slow on fluid if it's not up to the top mark add some fluid if you're losing fluid there's either a leak somewhere or you just haven't checked it a really long time normally there's a leak but years ago my brother-in-law had a toyota van and he took it to the dealer and they said you need a power steering pump we don't have it but we'll special order it and it was 500 something bucks he hadn't checked the fluid in that thing for five six years they filled it up so it was full when he drove away while he was waiting for them to get the pump well they screwed up somewhere and he never got a call and the pump never showed up but two years later it was still full and not making any noise over time you can lose a tiny bit of fluid over years and years and years and years so if you're low on fluid and you fill it up a year later it's still pretty full i wouldn't even worry about that but since they have so much pressure a lot of these power steering pumps put out like 1500 pounds per square inch pressure it's a lot of pressure normally the first thing to go is the high pressure hose if my old celica's had the high pressure hose replaced it holds the highest pressure the rubber eventually falls apart starts seeping through the cell walls or where it's crimped to the metal ends that bolt on it leaks there and that's generally really easy to figure out wipe it with a rag and if it's a big leak if somebody turn the wheel while you look at you see it's squirting out you know that it needs a new high side power steering hose and of course the pumps themselves can leak you'd look at the front where the pulley is that's the front main seal and they go bad they'll be leaking out of the front and the worst case scenario is if you have a leaking power steering rack when they leak the fluid will drip at the end of the wreck where the boot is they've got a big rubber boot and if fluid's coming out of there that means that the rack is gonna have to be replaced because that big rubber boot that's on the end of the power steering rack on the left end and the right end that's just the dust cover to keep dirt from getting inside the actual seal is inside the rack itself so if there's fluid leaking out around that outside big rubber baffle that you see it's too late that's not meant to seal fluid pressure that's just to keep dirt from getting inside and wearing the seal then you'd have to get a new wreck in they're very very expensive and in probably the rarest of cases older honda accords i've replaced power steering pumps on many of them they made as you're turning the car but they had no leaks they weren't losing any fluid and it was just that the pumps wore out made that noise honda's just over the ages had problems with their pumps wearing out prematurely then they make a lot of noise when you turn and here's a warning about power steering pumps if you are planning on replacing your power steering pump please use a brand new one don't use a rebuild one the rebuilt ones are often terrible garbage i used to try them for customers half the time they either wouldn't work they'd bind even worse than the previous one did or they made a lot of noise and i've had them when i took them back to places and said hey this pump's too noisy to say look we guarantee that it works and then it doesn't leak but we don't guarantee that it doesn't make noise or if you want to gamble with a better gamble than a rebuild go to a salvage yard because hey this generally lasts a really long time and a lot of times you can pick up a used one for 50 bucks and it'll work perfectly fine now the last thing i'm going to talk about in noises of your car your car's running you hear a ticking sound and it doesn't matter if the car is running driving moving as long as the engine's running you hear a ticking sound well you want to pray that that ticking sound is something like a worn fuel injector so if you use a giant screwdriver like this or any metal when the car's running all you have to do is put it against your ear and check the fuel injectors one at a time with your ear put it on the base of the fuel injector and listen you hear that ticking loud when you get on one of them you know it's the fuel injector that's clicking and of course to double check that when it is running if you suspect say the number three injector is making a noise turn the car off unplug that injector and start it up it'll run poorly but if you hear the ticking goes away you know it's the fuel injector now you want to pray it's that because if it isn't and when you put your sounding unit on the actual engine on the head itself or the block and you hear the tick and then odds are you got a serious internal engine problem like a worn valve bad hydraulic lifter or you got the rods starting to knock as the bearings are wearing out that you don't want but of course the fan belt or any of the accessories that it drives sometimes they can take a bearings go bad before you condemn your engine remove all the fan belts then start it up and pray that the noise goes away because then if the ticking goes away you know it's something that the fan belt drives bad alternator bearing bad water pump bearing bad idler bearing something besides the engine you do not want to hear ticky noise coming from your engine if you do then you're going to have a really bad day an overheating nissan the engine's overheating customer brought it over here after taking it to other mechanics one you never know what anybody's actually done they told her this that and everything else but you got to start out with the basics now numero uno this is a brand new radiator she told me they paid to put a radiator on this thing but it didn't solve the problem and right away i can see the radiator's low you can see the cooling fins and there's no coolant in them they told her i'll probably use the thermostat now well it's slow on coolant a thermostat opens and closes but generally is going to make it low on coolant so i really kind of wonder about that and i noticed the check engine lights on so i'm going to test that first plug in a scan tool turn the key on and see what it says it's reading codes got a whole bunch of codes let's see what it says the engine's running too hot nox sensor driver airbag module the knock sensors on these v6 nissans go bad all the time with the royal pain to change you gotta take off the intake manifold and that generally isn't gonna make an engine overheat the only code that had to do with the engine overheating is the one that says the engine's overheating we already know that so i'm gonna do a block leak check on this often some fool will change the radiator when actually the engine is the problem and fixing the radiator replacing it with a new one like this doesn't fix anything if the engine is blowing the head gasket a simple test we get the test fluid start the car put the test tube over the radiator hole and take off the top stuck on there we'll have to pull it off that's a job break it up pour it in and stick the top back on and do some suction now if this dark blue liquid turns color green or bright yellow means the head gasket of the engine's leaking and as you can see it's turned yellow quite a difference in color now this doesn't surprise me because the engine has hundred 266 ninety one miles on it and as i sit here rev it up a little comes down i can feel it rumbling it it just doesn't feel right to begin with and it costs a fortune to do a head gasket job and who knows a lot of corrosion maybe the head's corrosion inside it's really not worth the money on this thing to take the engine apart and attempt to fix it mechanically now the customers decided to let me remove the thermostat and try some sealer because if you put sealer in with the thermostat it'll often make it stick shot then it'll really overheat so we're going to remove the thermostat put in some sealer and pry it last so take the air filter out of the way and we'll look down here this thermostat's right inside here we just take the bolts off and we'll get it out so we unbolt the thermostat and here it is we'll just cut the old thermostat out so it can't get stuck then we'll put a low this 3m sealer all over and stick the gasket over now i use this 3m weather strip and gasket sealer for two reasons one i don't want it slipping when i put it in there's no working room so i'm gonna let it sit for half an hour while it dries then i'm gonna put sealer on the outside and bolt the whole thing in that way it'll be sealed not leak i've had tons of them in the past leak if i didn't use sealer to hold it in place and going cockeyed you get a leak and then you'd be screaming mad when you filled it up then we built the thermostat housing back in get all the three bolts in and slip the holes back on then slide the clamp on using pliers then clamps on nice and tight and with that falling off then we'll put the air filter back on and tighten it up you don't want any air leaks then hopefully comes a miracle in a can the bars head gasket sealer you just pour it in the whole can then pour the cool one in that came out then we'll start her up and pray the sealer works now what you want to do now is let it idle about half an hour shut it off the ceiling can do its thing let it sit for a couple hours and then basically drive it around and see what happens okay i got a transmission problem with this kia check engine lights coming on well i got my scan tool in the dash it says p0741 torque converter clutch problem slipping or off so that's actually a very common problem with these keys as they age on a scan tool i looked at the recorded data for the trouble code and it showed that it happened at about 56 miles an hour and what's happening is the torque converter is either slipping or the lock up is not working right at higher speeds modern vehicles have automatic transmissions that get about the same gas mileage as a standard all automatic transmissions have a little slippage in them so when you come to a stop and you step on the brakes the engine doesn't stall in a standard transmission if you did it the engine would stall you have to push down the clutch put it neutral automatic transmissions don't work that way they had some slippage but decades ago they started putting these torque converter lockups in the automatic transmission so when you're on the highway speed and this one was 56 miles an hour the solenoid locks it in place so there's no slippage at all so you get the same gas mileage as you would in a standard one well this system's starting to break down needless to say even in this 12 year old kia it's all computer control there could be a ton of things wrong but often it's just the fluid i know this particular vehicle got over a hundred thousand miles of fluids never been changed so i'm assuming it's dirty first we're gonna check and see if it's low we start it up with the engine in park then we check the fluid reach in here wipe it off put it back in then check the level in this case it's full where it should be but as you can see it's also pretty dirty it's supposed to be red so we're going to take a gamble on this one change the fluid and add some of this lucas additive as you can see it says it's stop slipped i've used this stuff for years and then older transmissions like this i've often gotten lucky and it actually solved the problem like this that just started out this guy's the original owner of the vehicle and it's the first time this coat has ever tripped so i'll jack it up in here and crawl under with a drain pan well forget this drain pan because as you can see up here the drain bolt right here is right above the frame so it's going to splatter all over so we need a bigger pan luckily i got a big one just for that so it can take a lot more fluid from a bigger area out of the way now these are often hard to get to so get a giant wrench that fits and a big hammer to hit it with then it wicks off now you take it off probably going to make a big mess but that's life off it comes there it goes all over the place just like i said that's why you need the big pan brilliant design as you can see on the drain plug it's magnetic there's some little black filings on it not really bad but it shows there's wear inside then once it's done draining you put the drain plug back in and it goes and then tighten it up then since we already checked it with the gauge and it was full we measure how much is in here and put the same amount right back in as i said before i'm going to use the lucas chance fix 2 instead of one of the quartz i'm going to put this in drive it and see what happens so i'll pull out the stick put it in the funnel and pour in all the fluids and of course remember to put the transmission fluid in too then get rid of the funnel put the dipstick back in and don't forget to recycle the transmission fluid then let the jack down and take it for a good half hour spin don't forget to close the hood now only time's going to tell if this actually fixes it but from my experience with these kiosks since it's the first time it happened fluid's never been changed i'd say i have at least a 50 chance that it'll stop slipping and tripping that coat now if the coat keeps coming back that means it's wearing out inside mechanically and it's going to cost a small fortune probably more than the 12-yard vehicle it's worth but this often fixes them for quite some time so if you never want to miss another one of my new car repair videos remember to ring that bell younow the first one is when you turn your car's key to start it and all you get is a click click click now that's a very common problem that has to do with the starter when you turn the key to start it it activates the solenoid the solenoid then pushes the bendix gear here out and when it goes out here then it meshes with the flywheel on the engine and spins the engine by the electric motor here turning and spinning it now all you hear is a click when you turn the starter and the car doesn't spin around that means you got a problem can be more than one problem that's why you got to figure it out if you have a battery that is low on electricity it has enough electricity to make the little solenoid go click in but not enough electricity to make the motor spin the engine first thing you do is try to jump start the car if it jump starts great then you just know you need another battery if there's any problem with the wiring you can do the same thing sometimes going click when you turn it be a loose battery terminal grab those terminals if you can wiggle around take them off clean them and put them on tight a lot of times you'll find it'll start right up again now if none of those work then it's often a worn out starter the motor won't spin because it's worn out inside now the next common noise that occurs you turn your steering wheel while you're taking corners and in the front you hear clicky click any click click it click any click and then when you go straight the noise stops with that clicking noise when you turn and drive is often a bad cd joint you can see here here's a broken one you see the rubber's ripped the grease leaks out and then this collects because it's not lubricated anymore now that's very easy to check you just jack up the car just enough so you can look under then turn the wheel all the way so the tires as far as it goes and just go under here and look there's the cv joint right here you can see this one's not ripped it's completely all together when you see it ripped like this and the grease is all leaked out you know it's time for a new one and here's a tip now years ago we mechanics used to take the drive shaft apart buy a new cv joint and boot kit put it back together and put it on but these days there's very good aftermarket brand new axle assemblies so you just buy the whole thing and then instead of having to take it all apart and mess with all the bearings you just take the old shaft out and put the new shaft in i got plenty of video showing you how to do it because if you're going to buy the dealer oem joint alone that'll often cost three times what the whole axle assembly is most places you get an axle anywhere from 59 to 69 dollars brand new and they work perfectly fine so there's no sense attempting to fix the old one now the next noise you'll often hear is the squealing noise either when you start the car or if you accelerate or if it's raining outside and it starts screaming that's often a bad fan belt yeah it shows my age they used to call them fan belts because they drove the fan that cooled the radiator if you have a loose or worn fan belt it'll squeal when you start it up first thing before it warms up it'll often squeal when you accelerate because that's straining the engine and then the belt will squeal or it'll often squeal hit rain water rain water hits it and the water makes it slip a little and squeal so here's how you can tell what it is you can use some of the spray silicone lube and with the engine turned off go to the fan belt area if you suspect that's where the noise is coming from side of the fan belt like here you spray it all over up and down on the inside yeah it was messy there but you just spray the inside and spray the inside of the pulleys that it drives over now spraying the silicone on isn't going to fix anything if it's squeaking and you spray it on and you hear the squeak stops the belt is worn or it's loose and from my experience today you're best just to replace them because sure my old 94 celica the belts are manually adjustable as they wear you have to loosen bolts and then tighten them by moving the alternator then tighten them up and as they were you got to re-tension them every once in a while but most modern cars have automatic tensioners and most only have one drive belt big giant thing so it's a good idea whenever it starts making noise just change the thing out especially if it's four or five years old who wants to be stranded because of a stupid fan belt and here's another tip don't go out and buy the cheapest fan belt you can possibly get unless you go to sell the car right away because the quality fan belts last longer i found in the past i used to go and buy them at the dealer they lasted the absolute longest but now there's companies like goodyear and many other ones out there that make really good belts that last just as long if not even longer than the original equipment but don't go buy the cheapest one if you go to all of our store and i said well we got this one belt for 19.95 and the other one's 29.95 buy the 29.95 one if it's got a quality brand name on it because you don't want it to wear these things can last a long time i've seen them last 80 90 000 miles so when you do change it put a good one in so you don't have a problem now the next common noise that you'll often hear you're driving down the road and every time you turn the steering wheel you hear that's inside the power steering system it's making a noise because when you turn the wheel the power steering pump has to send all its pressure to boost the opposite side that you're turning to to push harder to give you the power assist now sometimes it's as simple as you just slow on fluid if it's not up to the top mark add some fluid if you're losing fluid there's either a leak somewhere or you just haven't checked it a really long time normally there's a leak but years ago my brother-in-law had a toyota van and he took it to the dealer and they said you need a power steering pump we don't have it but we'll special order it and it was 500 something bucks he hadn't checked the fluid in that thing for five six years they filled it up so it was full when he drove away while he was waiting for them to get the pump well they screwed up somewhere and he never got a call and the pump never showed up but two years later it was still full and not making any noise over time you can lose a tiny bit of fluid over years and years and years and years so if you're low on fluid and you fill it up a year later it's still pretty full i wouldn't even worry about that but since they have so much pressure a lot of these power steering pumps put out like 1500 pounds per square inch pressure it's a lot of pressure normally the first thing to go is the high pressure hose if my old celica's had the high pressure hose replaced it holds the highest pressure the rubber eventually falls apart starts seeping through the cell walls or where it's crimped to the metal ends that bolt on it leaks there and that's generally really easy to figure out wipe it with a rag and if it's a big leak if somebody turn the wheel while you look at you see it's squirting out you know that it needs a new high side power steering hose and of course the pumps themselves can leak you'd look at the front where the pulley is that's the front main seal and they go bad they'll be leaking out of the front and the worst case scenario is if you have a leaking power steering rack when they leak the fluid will drip at the end of the wreck where the boot is they've got a big rubber boot and if fluid's coming out of there that means that the rack is gonna have to be replaced because that big rubber boot that's on the end of the power steering rack on the left end and the right end that's just the dust cover to keep dirt from getting inside the actual seal is inside the rack itself so if there's fluid leaking out around that outside big rubber baffle that you see it's too late that's not meant to seal fluid pressure that's just to keep dirt from getting inside and wearing the seal then you'd have to get a new wreck in they're very very expensive and in probably the rarest of cases older honda accords i've replaced power steering pumps on many of them they made as you're turning the car but they had no leaks they weren't losing any fluid and it was just that the pumps wore out made that noise honda's just over the ages had problems with their pumps wearing out prematurely then they make a lot of noise when you turn and here's a warning about power steering pumps if you are planning on replacing your power steering pump please use a brand new one don't use a rebuild one the rebuilt ones are often terrible garbage i used to try them for customers half the time they either wouldn't work they'd bind even worse than the previous one did or they made a lot of noise and i've had them when i took them back to places and said hey this pump's too noisy to say look we guarantee that it works and then it doesn't leak but we don't guarantee that it doesn't make noise or if you want to gamble with a better gamble than a rebuild go to a salvage yard because hey this generally lasts a really long time and a lot of times you can pick up a used one for 50 bucks and it'll work perfectly fine now the last thing i'm going to talk about in noises of your car your car's running you hear a ticking sound and it doesn't matter if the car is running driving moving as long as the engine's running you hear a ticking sound well you want to pray that that ticking sound is something like a worn fuel injector so if you use a giant screwdriver like this or any metal when the car's running all you have to do is put it against your ear and check the fuel injectors one at a time with your ear put it on the base of the fuel injector and listen you hear that ticking loud when you get on one of them you know it's the fuel injector that's clicking and of course to double check that when it is running if you suspect say the number three injector is making a noise turn the car off unplug that injector and start it up it'll run poorly but if you hear the ticking goes away you know it's the fuel injector now you want to pray it's that because if it isn't and when you put your sounding unit on the actual engine on the head itself or the block and you hear the tick and then odds are you got a serious internal engine problem like a worn valve bad hydraulic lifter or you got the rods starting to knock as the bearings are wearing out that you don't want but of course the fan belt or any of the accessories that it drives sometimes they can take a bearings go bad before you condemn your engine remove all the fan belts then start it up and pray that the noise goes away because then if the ticking goes away you know it's something that the fan belt drives bad alternator bearing bad water pump bearing bad idler bearing something besides the engine you do not want to hear ticky noise coming from your engine if you do then you're going to have a really bad day an overheating nissan the engine's overheating customer brought it over here after taking it to other mechanics one you never know what anybody's actually done they told her this that and everything else but you got to start out with the basics now numero uno this is a brand new radiator she told me they paid to put a radiator on this thing but it didn't solve the problem and right away i can see the radiator's low you can see the cooling fins and there's no coolant in them they told her i'll probably use the thermostat now well it's slow on coolant a thermostat opens and closes but generally is going to make it low on coolant so i really kind of wonder about that and i noticed the check engine lights on so i'm going to test that first plug in a scan tool turn the key on and see what it says it's reading codes got a whole bunch of codes let's see what it says the engine's running too hot nox sensor driver airbag module the knock sensors on these v6 nissans go bad all the time with the royal pain to change you gotta take off the intake manifold and that generally isn't gonna make an engine overheat the only code that had to do with the engine overheating is the one that says the engine's overheating we already know that so i'm gonna do a block leak check on this often some fool will change the radiator when actually the engine is the problem and fixing the radiator replacing it with a new one like this doesn't fix anything if the engine is blowing the head gasket a simple test we get the test fluid start the car put the test tube over the radiator hole and take off the top stuck on there we'll have to pull it off that's a job break it up pour it in and stick the top back on and do some suction now if this dark blue liquid turns color green or bright yellow means the head gasket of the engine's leaking and as you can see it's turned yellow quite a difference in color now this doesn't surprise me because the engine has hundred 266 ninety one miles on it and as i sit here rev it up a little comes down i can feel it rumbling it it just doesn't feel right to begin with and it costs a fortune to do a head gasket job and who knows a lot of corrosion maybe the head's corrosion inside it's really not worth the money on this thing to take the engine apart and attempt to fix it mechanically now the customers decided to let me remove the thermostat and try some sealer because if you put sealer in with the thermostat it'll often make it stick shot then it'll really overheat so we're going to remove the thermostat put in some sealer and pry it last so take the air filter out of the way and we'll look down here this thermostat's right inside here we just take the bolts off and we'll get it out so we unbolt the thermostat and here it is we'll just cut the old thermostat out so it can't get stuck then we'll put a low this 3m sealer all over and stick the gasket over now i use this 3m weather strip and gasket sealer for two reasons one i don't want it slipping when i put it in there's no working room so i'm gonna let it sit for half an hour while it dries then i'm gonna put sealer on the outside and bolt the whole thing in that way it'll be sealed not leak i've had tons of them in the past leak if i didn't use sealer to hold it in place and going cockeyed you get a leak and then you'd be screaming mad when you filled it up then we built the thermostat housing back in get all the three bolts in and slip the holes back on then slide the clamp on using pliers then clamps on nice and tight and with that falling off then we'll put the air filter back on and tighten it up you don't want any air leaks then hopefully comes a miracle in a can the bars head gasket sealer you just pour it in the whole can then pour the cool one in that came out then we'll start her up and pray the sealer works now what you want to do now is let it idle about half an hour shut it off the ceiling can do its thing let it sit for a couple hours and then basically drive it around and see what happens okay i got a transmission problem with this kia check engine lights coming on well i got my scan tool in the dash it says p0741 torque converter clutch problem slipping or off so that's actually a very common problem with these keys as they age on a scan tool i looked at the recorded data for the trouble code and it showed that it happened at about 56 miles an hour and what's happening is the torque converter is either slipping or the lock up is not working right at higher speeds modern vehicles have automatic transmissions that get about the same gas mileage as a standard all automatic transmissions have a little slippage in them so when you come to a stop and you step on the brakes the engine doesn't stall in a standard transmission if you did it the engine would stall you have to push down the clutch put it neutral automatic transmissions don't work that way they had some slippage but decades ago they started putting these torque converter lockups in the automatic transmission so when you're on the highway speed and this one was 56 miles an hour the solenoid locks it in place so there's no slippage at all so you get the same gas mileage as you would in a standard one well this system's starting to break down needless to say even in this 12 year old kia it's all computer control there could be a ton of things wrong but often it's just the fluid i know this particular vehicle got over a hundred thousand miles of fluids never been changed so i'm assuming it's dirty first we're gonna check and see if it's low we start it up with the engine in park then we check the fluid reach in here wipe it off put it back in then check the level in this case it's full where it should be but as you can see it's also pretty dirty it's supposed to be red so we're going to take a gamble on this one change the fluid and add some of this lucas additive as you can see it says it's stop slipped i've used this stuff for years and then older transmissions like this i've often gotten lucky and it actually solved the problem like this that just started out this guy's the original owner of the vehicle and it's the first time this coat has ever tripped so i'll jack it up in here and crawl under with a drain pan well forget this drain pan because as you can see up here the drain bolt right here is right above the frame so it's going to splatter all over so we need a bigger pan luckily i got a big one just for that so it can take a lot more fluid from a bigger area out of the way now these are often hard to get to so get a giant wrench that fits and a big hammer to hit it with then it wicks off now you take it off probably going to make a big mess but that's life off it comes there it goes all over the place just like i said that's why you need the big pan brilliant design as you can see on the drain plug it's magnetic there's some little black filings on it not really bad but it shows there's wear inside then once it's done draining you put the drain plug back in and it goes and then tighten it up then since we already checked it with the gauge and it was full we measure how much is in here and put the same amount right back in as i said before i'm going to use the lucas chance fix 2 instead of one of the quartz i'm going to put this in drive it and see what happens so i'll pull out the stick put it in the funnel and pour in all the fluids and of course remember to put the transmission fluid in too then get rid of the funnel put the dipstick back in and don't forget to recycle the transmission fluid then let the jack down and take it for a good half hour spin don't forget to close the hood now only time's going to tell if this actually fixes it but from my experience with these kiosks since it's the first time it happened fluid's never been changed i'd say i have at least a 50 chance that it'll stop slipping and tripping that coat now if the coat keeps coming back that means it's wearing out inside mechanically and it's going to cost a small fortune probably more than the 12-yard vehicle it's worth but this often fixes them for quite some time so if you never want to miss another one of my new car repair videos remember to ring that bell you\n"