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A Coil by Hands: A Step-by-Step Guide to Building an AC-DC Converter

Building a coil by hands can be a simple yet rewarding project. To start, one needs to do a couple of windings and then secure them in place with a bit of glue. This method allows for easy winding of the rest of the coil while keeping it all tied together. The first layer is secured with glue, which becomes the starting point for the subsequent layers.

As I continued with the project, my windings became increasingly messy with each additional layer. To solve this issue, I rotated the pipe, which was not a clean method but resulted in white coils. Once the coil thickness reached around half a centimeter, I secured the end point with more glue. The next step involved removing the enamel varnish of the wire and sandpaper to refine the surface.

The last remaining component is a magnet, which will induce a voltage into the coil by moving back and forth through the pipe and changing the magnetic flux. In my project, I used ten magnets inserted into the pipe, and after checking rapidly, I observed an AC voltage on the oscilloscope with peaks up to 4.5 volts. This was exactly what I needed.

To solve the issue of keeping the magnets inside the pipe, I created a piece of beech plywood marked in 18 millimeter square and circle shapes. Using a saw, I cut out the squares and then used a file to create a circle shape on each corner. Additionally, I hot-glued cotton wool to one side of the circles to slow down the magnet's movement. The wood circles were then pushed into the pipe, and two-component glue was applied to secure them properly.

With the glue dry, everything still worked fine. It was time to replace the LED with a bridge rectifier. I soldered the wires of my coil to the pins of the bridge rectifier and connected it to the plus and minus pin on my oscilloscope. The result was that only positive waves aka DC were observed instead of AC.

The output voltage was lowered due to the forward voltage of the diodes, and current could only flow from the coil into the loads not the other way around. To overcome this issue, I soldered a 1.5 Farad capacitor in series with my bridge rectifier. The maximum voltage peaks of the capacitor were around 4 volts, making it suitable for charging a super cab.

As an additional test, I hooked up my Joule thief circuit, which seemed to work fine as well. I could even charge the super cab while idling up the LED. With all the components in place, I assembled the project by gluing a small slide switch to the side of the pipe and combining the full bridge rectifier with my capacitor.

I soldered the plus and minus terminal together and continued with the assembly. The toroid ferrite core was glued on top, followed by the transistor and LED loop. The components were then connected to one another. If you want to create something similar, you can find pictures, parts list, and a schematic in the video description.

Once I sealed the top section of the torch with Wooper glue, the project was finally complete. After shaking for around 30 seconds, these circuits could illuminate the LED for up to 2 minutes, which is pretty decent.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enin my previous video I showed you how to make a jus Pheebs circuits that can illuminate a 0.5 watt LED year through the help of a chart job super capacitor but using my lab bench power supply to regularly charge up the super cab is not quite a real-life application for such a circuits so in this video I will show you how I created this rather crude looking but still functional shaking torch that never runs out of battery and could potentially be a lifesaver in an emergency situation let's get started first off I got myself a PVC pipe whuppin outer diameter of 20 millimeters and inner diameter of seventeen point five millimeters then I marked the line 16 centimeters from the edge of the pipe and used that as a guideline to saw it into two pieces afterwards the smaller pipe received another marking in the middle of it length and two more 1.5 centimeters away left and right from the middle line those markings will be used to position our coil so obviously we will need quite a bit of enamel Cup wire in my case with a diameter of 0.5 millimeter the easiest way to wind such a coil by hands is by firstly doing a couple of windings and then securing those in place with a bit of glue this way after the glue is dry it is quite simple to wind the rest of the coil while keeping it all tied together because your starting point will not slip away once I was done with the first layer I went back to the starting point and repeated the process over and over again but I have to admit that my windings became increasingly messy the more layers I created and at the end I even rotated the pipe which is definitely not a clean method - white coils but nevertheless after coil thickness of around half a centimeter I secured the end point with more glue you sandpaper to remove the enamel varnish of my wire and choked up my old go to the coil the last remaining component is a magnets which will induce a voltage into the coil by moving back and forth through the pipe and thus changing the magnetic flux through the coil - diameter of 50 millimeters and a thickness of 3 millimeters and since one was not enough I use ten of them by inserting them into the pipe and checking it rapidly here we can observe an AC voltage on the oscilloscope with Peaks up to 4.5 volts just what we need and if you don't have an oscilloscope you could also just hook up an ordinary 5 millimeter LED it should light up if everything works correctly but one problem still remains the fact that I have to use my hands to keep the magnets inside the pipe to solve that I got myself a piece of beech plywood's marked in 18 millimeter square and circle in two corners use my saw to cut out the squares and afterwards use the file to create a circle shape additionally I also use the bit of cotton wool which I hot glued to one side of the circles in order to slow down the magnet softly then I push the wood circles into the pipe and use layer of two-component he sieve to see the doll properly after the glue was dry everything still work fine so it was time to remove the LED and replace it with a pool bridge rectifier so I soldered the wires of my coil to the pins whoof Wiggly lions and tucked up my oscilloscope to the plus and minus pin the result was that now there are only positive waves aka DC instead of AC the output voltage was lowered by the forward voltage of the diodes and current could only flow from the coil into the loads not the other way around and speaking of loads I then solid my 22 for a super cab to the airport of the rectifier and started shaking but since the capacity of it is rather big it would have taken an eternity to charge it up to useful voltage levels so 22 farads or generally everything about 5 watts is not a suitable option that is why I use this 1.5 for one with a maximum voltage of 5 point 5 volts which makes things a lot easier because not only do I reach usable voltage levels in half a minutes but also because I cannot overcharge the super cab because the maximum voltage Peaks are only around 4 volts as a last test I also hooked up my Joule thief circuit which seems to work fine as well and I can even charge the super cab while idling up the LED so I gathered all the components I used so far plus a small slide switch and began the assembly by gluing that switch to the side of the pipe then I combined the full bridge rectifier with my capacitor and glued that on top of the pipe after soldering the plus and minus terminal together I continued by gluing the toroid ferrite core on top of that followed by the transistor loop LED at the end I simply connected the components to one another and if you want to create something similar you can find pictures a parts list and a schematic in the video description once I then seal the top section of the torch Wooper glue this project was finally complete and after shaking for around 30 seconds these circuits can illuminate the LED for up to 2 minutes which is pretty decent I hope you like this video if so don't forget to like share and subscribe that would be awesome consider supporting me or through patreon to keep such videos coming stay creative and I will see you next timein my previous video I showed you how to make a jus Pheebs circuits that can illuminate a 0.5 watt LED year through the help of a chart job super capacitor but using my lab bench power supply to regularly charge up the super cab is not quite a real-life application for such a circuits so in this video I will show you how I created this rather crude looking but still functional shaking torch that never runs out of battery and could potentially be a lifesaver in an emergency situation let's get started first off I got myself a PVC pipe whuppin outer diameter of 20 millimeters and inner diameter of seventeen point five millimeters then I marked the line 16 centimeters from the edge of the pipe and used that as a guideline to saw it into two pieces afterwards the smaller pipe received another marking in the middle of it length and two more 1.5 centimeters away left and right from the middle line those markings will be used to position our coil so obviously we will need quite a bit of enamel Cup wire in my case with a diameter of 0.5 millimeter the easiest way to wind such a coil by hands is by firstly doing a couple of windings and then securing those in place with a bit of glue this way after the glue is dry it is quite simple to wind the rest of the coil while keeping it all tied together because your starting point will not slip away once I was done with the first layer I went back to the starting point and repeated the process over and over again but I have to admit that my windings became increasingly messy the more layers I created and at the end I even rotated the pipe which is definitely not a clean method - white coils but nevertheless after coil thickness of around half a centimeter I secured the end point with more glue you sandpaper to remove the enamel varnish of my wire and choked up my old go to the coil the last remaining component is a magnets which will induce a voltage into the coil by moving back and forth through the pipe and thus changing the magnetic flux through the coil - diameter of 50 millimeters and a thickness of 3 millimeters and since one was not enough I use ten of them by inserting them into the pipe and checking it rapidly here we can observe an AC voltage on the oscilloscope with Peaks up to 4.5 volts just what we need and if you don't have an oscilloscope you could also just hook up an ordinary 5 millimeter LED it should light up if everything works correctly but one problem still remains the fact that I have to use my hands to keep the magnets inside the pipe to solve that I got myself a piece of beech plywood's marked in 18 millimeter square and circle in two corners use my saw to cut out the squares and afterwards use the file to create a circle shape additionally I also use the bit of cotton wool which I hot glued to one side of the circles in order to slow down the magnet softly then I push the wood circles into the pipe and use layer of two-component he sieve to see the doll properly after the glue was dry everything still work fine so it was time to remove the LED and replace it with a pool bridge rectifier so I soldered the wires of my coil to the pins whoof Wiggly lions and tucked up my oscilloscope to the plus and minus pin the result was that now there are only positive waves aka DC instead of AC the output voltage was lowered by the forward voltage of the diodes and current could only flow from the coil into the loads not the other way around and speaking of loads I then solid my 22 for a super cab to the airport of the rectifier and started shaking but since the capacity of it is rather big it would have taken an eternity to charge it up to useful voltage levels so 22 farads or generally everything about 5 watts is not a suitable option that is why I use this 1.5 for one with a maximum voltage of 5 point 5 volts which makes things a lot easier because not only do I reach usable voltage levels in half a minutes but also because I cannot overcharge the super cab because the maximum voltage Peaks are only around 4 volts as a last test I also hooked up my Joule thief circuit which seems to work fine as well and I can even charge the super cab while idling up the LED so I gathered all the components I used so far plus a small slide switch and began the assembly by gluing that switch to the side of the pipe then I combined the full bridge rectifier with my capacitor and glued that on top of the pipe after soldering the plus and minus terminal together I continued by gluing the toroid ferrite core on top of that followed by the transistor loop LED at the end I simply connected the components to one another and if you want to create something similar you can find pictures a parts list and a schematic in the video description once I then seal the top section of the torch Wooper glue this project was finally complete and after shaking for around 30 seconds these circuits can illuminate the LED for up to 2 minutes which is pretty decent I hope you like this video if so don't forget to like share and subscribe that would be awesome consider supporting me or through patreon to keep such videos coming stay creative and I will see you next time