**A Modern Makeover for a Classic Car**

The author's recent project involved upgrading an old car with modern components to improve its performance and reliability. The chosen vehicle was a Yaris, which the owner had rescued from a local salvage yard. With the help of new coil-on-plug ignition, electronic throttle control, and other modern tech, the author set out to breathe new life into the car.

The first step in the project was to remove the old, outdated system that came with the car. The distributor was replaced by a coil pack, which fired the spark individually, rather than distributing it to all the cylinders. This modern setup provided greater reliability and flexibility for tuning. "We're getting rid of that," said the author, "and now we fire the coil packs individually."

Another key component of the upgrade was the new ignition module, which controlled the timing of the spark plugs. The old system relied on distributors and mechanical bits, whereas this modern setup used electronic controls to manage the ignition. "We can do it with a Hampton," said the author, referring to the manufacturer of the ignition module.

In addition to these major upgrades, the author also tackled smaller tasks such as replacing resistor packs for the injectors. These old-school components were no longer needed with the new setup and were easily removable. The author noted that this was just one of many areas where modern technology made life easier.

The author's team had developed a plan to slowly cross-reference each wire to confirm its circuit and ensure it matched the ECU pin-out and wiring schematic for the car. However, they encountered an unexpected issue when trying to connect the new components to the existing wiring. "I love noticing as we buzz this out," said one of the authors, "that none of the colors on my end match the colors on your diagram... it's actually melted."

The reason for this discrepancy was a faulty connection in the connector. The contact between the pins had become so poor that it had created enough heat to melt the plug and cause the pins to fall out. This revealed the need to revisit the entire wiring setup and replace damaged components with new ones.

After determining that the problem was caused by the connector, the author decided to cut back on pasting all the cutting shot into fresh wires and instead opted for a simple solution: using new plugs. "We can fix we can repair," said another team member, "and hopefully fixable." The team agreed that replacing damaged components would be a much easier solution than trying to rewire the entire engine.

Finally, the author's team moved on to connect the new wiring to the car's ECU and other essential systems. They were able to complete this task without too much difficulty, thanks to their extensive knowledge of modern automotive systems. "Just this mean," said one of the authors, "so okay I will go and get started on."

The author expressed gratitude for his team's hard work and expertise in completing the project. Despite the challenges they faced, including finding replacement components and dealing with faulty wiring connections, the end result was a sleeker, more modern car that was ready to hit the road.

As the author looked at the finished product, he couldn't help but feel a sense of pride and accomplishment. "I love this," he said, gesturing towards the car's new engine compartment. "It's all brand new." The team had done an excellent job in revamping the old car, making it faster, more reliable, and more enjoyable to drive.

The author went on to note that the modern components used in this project were not only more efficient but also easier to work with. "Toyota... they don't all make a lot of sense," he said wryly, referring to the company's proprietary systems. However, it was clear that the author had no complaints about the end result.

**Conclusion**

The author's recent car restoration project was a resounding success, thanks in large part to the introduction of modern components such as coil-on-plug ignition and electronic throttle control. By upgrading these key areas of the vehicle, he was able to improve its performance and reliability while also making it easier to drive. The finished product was a testament to the power of innovative technology and the expertise of the author's team.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enon this episode of Mighty Car Mods it's all about water-to-air intercourse getting an ECU on this car and getting it started welcome to another episode of mighty car mods work on the mi - has been progressing really well this is it though this episode the cars are gonna get started I'm even gonna tune it if I can there's a few mods that are gonna happen say which are pretty exciting this is the water that intercooler off Miss Daisy if you want to see what video that's all about check it out it's where we did a really crazy fast time in an old VW Beetle I'm gonna install this some of the car I've also got an ECU coming that will run the whole thing and this episode there's a whole bunch of making stuff which is the most enjoyable and sometimes hardest fear let's do it a few years back we pieced together this Volkswagen Beetle super bug that started with a stock standard twenty three point nine kilowatts we added a built a J 25 engine out of Subaru WRX attached the turbo resulting in 10 times the power we took it to the drags and chopped a Porsche it was fast probably too fast to be safe to drive so we pulled the mods out and move the shell on it used a water tear intercooler which I've been holding onto for just the right project and this crusty mr2 is a perfect candidate keeping this project under budget is proving tough with how much stuff is broken but I'm hoping by recycling some parts I'm gonna be close water-to-air intercooling not something that you don't see as much these days for manufacturers but early Subaru Liberty's used to use it this happens to be the water to air system of our VW Beetle now hot boost the air goes in this side you've got a water jacket that surrounds that core and then you get cooler air out here now air-to-air intercooler you see much more of it it's definitely cheaper and it's definitely simpler and in a lot of cases more effective but this is all about packaging this allows you to put this core sort of anywhere you want up in the engine bay and all you've got to do is run hoses to this essentially as a radiator with a fan on it you can run your hoses up to it and the cool air comes through here cools down the coolant and cooling again sent away back to the other end of the car up into here and cools your charged air that's all made possible by a pump which constantly pumps cooling around the system you can control in this turns on and off and again it's all about the packaging and the ability to use this stuff to make it fit your car perfectly now I've never done a custom setup of these before so I'm learning along with everyone but I'm excited to see how it goes I know it's good for regulating which are maybe not as bigger drops that you'd see with air-to-air but being that the nature of this car the engine is behind your head it's kind of a cool reason to use it so let's do it the mission is to get hot air from the outlet of the turbo over to the throttle body via the intercooler it needs to clear the bonnet it can't rub on anything I'll need to put mounts on it no need to mix and match join us to make it fit there's a bit of trial and error involved and lots of steering to try and visualize how it's all going to work it's also a good idea to measure everything something that I didn't quite do enough of as soon as you go down this part everything is custom as nothing is in the stock location so the original rubber bands probably won't work luckily you can get silicon joiners in all sorts of shapes and sizes I've seen some really creative and interesting ways that people have done water the air on these kind of cars now you've got affirmative space actually over here particularly in this area or it's quite cool and you're not near the hot exhaust housing of the turbo there's some like triangular ones where it sort of uses that whole space and you have your air outlet over on this side and then straight back out that way that is by far the neatest way to do this being that I'm recycle in parts I have to be a little bit more creative about where I put it and use silicon's to make it work I think that this location is actually going to work the best I will do it of a loop to get back to the turbo but I don't want to clock the factory turbo partly because it's a pain to get it off and partly because it gives you options that if you ever want to put a inert air-to-air intercooler on this you can you can just bolt it straight in and everything's in the right place so rather than mess up that whole set up I can just use like a $10 silicon to make it do what I want it to do now unfortunately Outlets 2.75 inches in realized I thought it was three I looked at it and went yeah that's three inch not always measure so I got to get a different silicon for there but everything else looks like it's going to work pretty well so now it's just a matter of mounting this up and then getting the silicones onto it and then once they're on and it's in place plummet into the front of the car this is much more difficult than buying a Bolton kit but it keeps cost down and occasionally it's good to push your limits and have to problem-solve and be a bit creative once I've worked out where the core needs to go the next step is to bend up some steel to melt it I'll need to custom-make one part to complete the bend around to the inlet side of the cooler I'm making it out of two and a half inch stainless steel which I can integral to get up once that's in place I can work out where the coolant hoses are gonna go the cooler comes with three quarter-inch outlets or 19 millimeters in the metric world it's a common hose size and also happens to be a common house plumbing size so things are available from hardware stores meaning expensive specialized fittings are not required working out this more than any cooling system is tricky I really want the radiator at the front of the car we're all the cold areas a lot of people put it in the back which is actually pretty cool that you can do that you sort of hang the radiator down and catch the air at the back of the car because then you don't have to run these big long pipes I'm going to use a combination of hose 19 mil internals over the hose and copper that's a really common plumbing size so it's cheap and easy to get what's not cheap because it's copper but it's easy to bend and work with and perfect for this kind of thing the trick I'm having at the moment is trying to run it out of the way the steering is tied up to the bottom of the cars I can get and once I've sort of worked out the bends I'll start to put bits of straight pipe in so it's a bit neater but yeah it's kind of fun actually a bit different a bit different to making an air-to-air intercooler that's for sure so hopefully it works the internet is full of arguments about how best to do this kind of thing aluminium hardline is a good and possibly cheaper solution but not as readily available in this size copper is a soft metal which is why it's so easy to bend and to work with but will at last long-term in the harsh environment under the car I guess we'll have to find out if it breaks and the water comes out worst case the inlet temperatures go up which you can set alarms for and tuning strategies in the ECU it's easy to get forced into inaction by too many differing opinions sometimes trying things yourself and learning from the experience is the best way to expand your own skill set all the hoses have been run I'm quite happy with how that's turned out you can't go to the shops and ask for mr to water to air in to call the line clips so I'm gonna have to come up with something a bit better for now it's in place and that's good the next thing I need to do is work out where the pumps going to go this is what makes the whole system work by pushing the cold water up into the heat exchanger at the engine and then obviously the hot water at the front cycles it all around and makes it all work there's a good spot for it behind the radiator I need to try and see if I can get the heat exchanger for the front of the car in front of the radiator I've seen people do it both ways in front makes more sense but I just have to see how it goes with packaging there may not actually be possible so either way I'm going to find a spot for this pump and plummeted the radiator fans require a little bit of trimming to sit against the aftermarket radiator I need them in place so I know how much clearance I have for the pump lines and associated hardware with the pump mounted next I need to install the water to air radiator the front bumper has to come off as it can only go in from underneath then I need to sneak some bent up hard pipe to in front of the engine coolant radiator to make it all work of course the bumper is full of rusted out fasteners so getting it off is a total pain is that a monumental fight with that front bumper boy I cannot believe how hard this car fights back to anything you try to do to it just where the bolts are it wants you to take the headlights out which in a normal car is a couple of bolts these are a little bit more complicated being big flip yuppie ones so it's trying to avoid that usually that's what gets you in trouble when you're trying to avoid doing the obvious which would be take the lights out anyway I didn't but it's off the next step is to put this heat exchanger in here somewhere I'm gonna leave the fan on if possible one of the horns isn't connected and hasn't been for a long time so I'm gonna get rid of it should buy me enough space sit it hard against the radiator mount it plumb it bump it back on the quarries mountains a bit of a compromise between getting the core into position where you're gonna get airflow into it it's not going to fail anything and you're also gonna get enough head on that pump because that pump needs a head of water sort of sitting on the impeller all the time so this bottom one is the one that drains out so the hot water goes into the top cools down comes back out here the cold water sits on the pump and the pump sends it up to the engine where the turbo does it's wishy wizzy things everyone has a good time so now it's just got to get this hose up into there only not like that I could work couldn't fix done easy a piece of welding wire bent into the appropriate shape makes a good template to then try and recreate using the tube bender this keeps a fairly even radius for the bends it's not perfect but it sure is easy and do-it-yourself a tube cutter makes neat cuts and then any really sharp bends can be achieved using pre-made 90-degree bends that can be soldered in place this is the same way the setup was running Miss Daisy and supported 260 kilowatts no problem at all to turn really happy with the progress that's been made the water the air intercooler is coming together really nicely so now that the stage of just sort of piecing everything back together and making some hoses all the fun stuff the really fun stuff is about to happen though and it's time to put in and ECU so the East are using a really interesting spot in these cars as well it's not where you'd normally expect them to be not under a kick panel in the front not under the bonnet no it is in the boot g'day mate as is David who's gonna help me do it hey man hey how are you is that nice to you in the craziest spot you've ever seen it's bizarre I've never seen an ECU that convenient are you really gonna come this is not too bad actually no the internet actually helped me with this because I was struggling to work on the engine and then someone said take the bot the boot off and sit in the boot to work look you comfortable you can reach like half the engine bay you know more jerking that far away beep Jay marching on Jacky very good so good so yeah I mean my looms here I'm just working out how our coil new coil loom he's gonna measure up so we're each gonna run we're gonna add some wires for stuff we don't have like one plug ignition yep but we're gonna use a factory wise for stuff we do have like our injectors throttle position sensor yeah so I'm gonna try and piece together an adapter harness all so we can just keep the plug as it is it's a really really common plug as far as cars of this era yeah every Evo had this plug this generation lots of Toyota's had this plug yeah rx-7 really model also knew that had this plug really really car WRX as well actually no three all the way through to 98 oh all had exactly the same plug so it's really really common yeah so I'll just make an adapter we will have to probably just do a beard a multimeter there's a lot of diagrams awful combination cuz this engine was insulated rias GT 8 on the car just want to make sure that we're going to get the injectors in the right place if the coil wire is in the right place coolant temp is in the right place at least if I know those core wires are in the right place I think will be pretty right for the rest of it right and then we'll make a couple of breakouts for the yaris coils that you're going to put on this yes I will make a breakout for the air temp sensor that you're going to put on there yes maybe they're loyal pressure yeah I'm not sure if I brought one but we'll have a look yeah we're gonna do flex fuel nice cut no no wait I'm gonna have to worry about that maybe we can add it in later yeah that's pretty cool don't just be a connector we can hook up sweet what's so close that's the thing if you want to do that stuff Oh half a meter of waring yeah attach it plug it in yes grommets right there it's ready to go we can remove whatever T's Japanese integrated stuff is may be working or not working is gone in the bin in the bin put the new stuff in in the better good time great AC jerky awesome mad let's do it I know you can stay there man how good is it yeah look outside it's actually really good so we can just use the grommets they're already there Yaris coils are an excellent bang for buck way to get coil on plug ignition onto your old car it does away with distributor rotors caps lead and other mechanical bits the original mr2 system is capable of making the power but I prefer the reliability and flexibility of this more modern setup luckily there was a Yaris in our lives recently so I rescued the coils before throwing all the useless parts in the beam it was a big beam we're gonna control them and everything else with our he'll take elite 1000 this is perfect for a foursome under street car being that we don't have an electronic throttle to worry about and it will be a breeze to tune we're also adding a wideband oxygen sensor boost control and air temp sensor his path brings me great joy deleting all this old 90s junk that just doesn't need to be here anymore because it's 30 years in the future and we can do it neater simpler with updated components at a cheap like the RS coils well free in our case cuz they came off your house Hilton thanks us Hilton so just pulling out the resistor packs for the injectors it's got the old-school injectors that need resistor thingies to make them squirt we don't need that anymore so that's going so the coil this is a coil and the ignition module so one coil distributor distributes to all the sparks we're getting rid of that and now we fire the coil packs individually it's just a nice modern new way to do it we can do it with a Hampton some very smart people in Japan would have had this car on the drawing board in the mid 80s and we're working with the available tech at the time all of this stuff is miniaturized now as electronics have become optimized smaller and better at managing heat Toyota also had its own peculiar ways of doing things different from many other manufacturers they don't all make a lot of sense but you can't argue with the fact that their cars often outlast many other makes Camrys anyone the plan is to slowly check each wire to confirm its circuit is where it's meant to be cross-referencing this with the ECU pin out and the wiring schematic for the car the only problem is a lot of it just doesn't work Dave oh I love noticing as we buzz this out that none of the colors on my and match the colors on your end and nothing on your diagram no matches both cars don't really know and I feel really bad about this but mm-hmm all that work you've done on that connector potentially is a waste of time I'm gonna say we abandon ship on the adapter purely because of even just this connector could it mean it's so rough had so much current being pulled through it yeah it's actually melted what is that what that is yeah I thought it was where from going in and out but not I so the contact was making such bad connection on the pin that it's actually created so much heat that the plug has started melting and the pins are falling out and they're melting together 30 years old and oh well there's insulted there's a cut-off man not as well what do you think the solution is chop back past all the cutting shot into fresh wires put some he'll take plugs on it done yep that's highly agree because we don't I mean we could rewire the entire engine also but no plug in people please well because also the connectors on this side are so crap as well you don't want to disturb them and try and repin yeah the factory staff yeah that's them all just buy new stuff they can which doesn't seem right we can fix we can we can repair and yes hopefully fixable I'm over the plugin beam partly because the Indians actually fairly simple - yeah we actually don't need that much during this run no we need the triggering we need a coolant temp we're wiring in a brand new air temp a boost control song we've done our coil wiring which is all brand new there is for opposition of course map sensor hose if the injector stuffs a bit weird we'll just make an injector loom I mean it's not that hard to work on this car just this mean so okay I will go and get started on thanks Dave that for you I'm sorry Dave oh good it's this common yeah I mean it's fight and flight snow buggy see you tomorrow day byeon this episode of Mighty Car Mods it's all about water-to-air intercourse getting an ECU on this car and getting it started welcome to another episode of mighty car mods work on the mi - has been progressing really well this is it though this episode the cars are gonna get started I'm even gonna tune it if I can there's a few mods that are gonna happen say which are pretty exciting this is the water that intercooler off Miss Daisy if you want to see what video that's all about check it out it's where we did a really crazy fast time in an old VW Beetle I'm gonna install this some of the car I've also got an ECU coming that will run the whole thing and this episode there's a whole bunch of making stuff which is the most enjoyable and sometimes hardest fear let's do it a few years back we pieced together this Volkswagen Beetle super bug that started with a stock standard twenty three point nine kilowatts we added a built a J 25 engine out of Subaru WRX attached the turbo resulting in 10 times the power we took it to the drags and chopped a Porsche it was fast probably too fast to be safe to drive so we pulled the mods out and move the shell on it used a water tear intercooler which I've been holding onto for just the right project and this crusty mr2 is a perfect candidate keeping this project under budget is proving tough with how much stuff is broken but I'm hoping by recycling some parts I'm gonna be close water-to-air intercooling not something that you don't see as much these days for manufacturers but early Subaru Liberty's used to use it this happens to be the water to air system of our VW Beetle now hot boost the air goes in this side you've got a water jacket that surrounds that core and then you get cooler air out here now air-to-air intercooler you see much more of it it's definitely cheaper and it's definitely simpler and in a lot of cases more effective but this is all about packaging this allows you to put this core sort of anywhere you want up in the engine bay and all you've got to do is run hoses to this essentially as a radiator with a fan on it you can run your hoses up to it and the cool air comes through here cools down the coolant and cooling again sent away back to the other end of the car up into here and cools your charged air that's all made possible by a pump which constantly pumps cooling around the system you can control in this turns on and off and again it's all about the packaging and the ability to use this stuff to make it fit your car perfectly now I've never done a custom setup of these before so I'm learning along with everyone but I'm excited to see how it goes I know it's good for regulating which are maybe not as bigger drops that you'd see with air-to-air but being that the nature of this car the engine is behind your head it's kind of a cool reason to use it so let's do it the mission is to get hot air from the outlet of the turbo over to the throttle body via the intercooler it needs to clear the bonnet it can't rub on anything I'll need to put mounts on it no need to mix and match join us to make it fit there's a bit of trial and error involved and lots of steering to try and visualize how it's all going to work it's also a good idea to measure everything something that I didn't quite do enough of as soon as you go down this part everything is custom as nothing is in the stock location so the original rubber bands probably won't work luckily you can get silicon joiners in all sorts of shapes and sizes I've seen some really creative and interesting ways that people have done water the air on these kind of cars now you've got affirmative space actually over here particularly in this area or it's quite cool and you're not near the hot exhaust housing of the turbo there's some like triangular ones where it sort of uses that whole space and you have your air outlet over on this side and then straight back out that way that is by far the neatest way to do this being that I'm recycle in parts I have to be a little bit more creative about where I put it and use silicon's to make it work I think that this location is actually going to work the best I will do it of a loop to get back to the turbo but I don't want to clock the factory turbo partly because it's a pain to get it off and partly because it gives you options that if you ever want to put a inert air-to-air intercooler on this you can you can just bolt it straight in and everything's in the right place so rather than mess up that whole set up I can just use like a $10 silicon to make it do what I want it to do now unfortunately Outlets 2.75 inches in realized I thought it was three I looked at it and went yeah that's three inch not always measure so I got to get a different silicon for there but everything else looks like it's going to work pretty well so now it's just a matter of mounting this up and then getting the silicones onto it and then once they're on and it's in place plummet into the front of the car this is much more difficult than buying a Bolton kit but it keeps cost down and occasionally it's good to push your limits and have to problem-solve and be a bit creative once I've worked out where the core needs to go the next step is to bend up some steel to melt it I'll need to custom-make one part to complete the bend around to the inlet side of the cooler I'm making it out of two and a half inch stainless steel which I can integral to get up once that's in place I can work out where the coolant hoses are gonna go the cooler comes with three quarter-inch outlets or 19 millimeters in the metric world it's a common hose size and also happens to be a common house plumbing size so things are available from hardware stores meaning expensive specialized fittings are not required working out this more than any cooling system is tricky I really want the radiator at the front of the car we're all the cold areas a lot of people put it in the back which is actually pretty cool that you can do that you sort of hang the radiator down and catch the air at the back of the car because then you don't have to run these big long pipes I'm going to use a combination of hose 19 mil internals over the hose and copper that's a really common plumbing size so it's cheap and easy to get what's not cheap because it's copper but it's easy to bend and work with and perfect for this kind of thing the trick I'm having at the moment is trying to run it out of the way the steering is tied up to the bottom of the cars I can get and once I've sort of worked out the bends I'll start to put bits of straight pipe in so it's a bit neater but yeah it's kind of fun actually a bit different a bit different to making an air-to-air intercooler that's for sure so hopefully it works the internet is full of arguments about how best to do this kind of thing aluminium hardline is a good and possibly cheaper solution but not as readily available in this size copper is a soft metal which is why it's so easy to bend and to work with but will at last long-term in the harsh environment under the car I guess we'll have to find out if it breaks and the water comes out worst case the inlet temperatures go up which you can set alarms for and tuning strategies in the ECU it's easy to get forced into inaction by too many differing opinions sometimes trying things yourself and learning from the experience is the best way to expand your own skill set all the hoses have been run I'm quite happy with how that's turned out you can't go to the shops and ask for mr to water to air in to call the line clips so I'm gonna have to come up with something a bit better for now it's in place and that's good the next thing I need to do is work out where the pumps going to go this is what makes the whole system work by pushing the cold water up into the heat exchanger at the engine and then obviously the hot water at the front cycles it all around and makes it all work there's a good spot for it behind the radiator I need to try and see if I can get the heat exchanger for the front of the car in front of the radiator I've seen people do it both ways in front makes more sense but I just have to see how it goes with packaging there may not actually be possible so either way I'm going to find a spot for this pump and plummeted the radiator fans require a little bit of trimming to sit against the aftermarket radiator I need them in place so I know how much clearance I have for the pump lines and associated hardware with the pump mounted next I need to install the water to air radiator the front bumper has to come off as it can only go in from underneath then I need to sneak some bent up hard pipe to in front of the engine coolant radiator to make it all work of course the bumper is full of rusted out fasteners so getting it off is a total pain is that a monumental fight with that front bumper boy I cannot believe how hard this car fights back to anything you try to do to it just where the bolts are it wants you to take the headlights out which in a normal car is a couple of bolts these are a little bit more complicated being big flip yuppie ones so it's trying to avoid that usually that's what gets you in trouble when you're trying to avoid doing the obvious which would be take the lights out anyway I didn't but it's off the next step is to put this heat exchanger in here somewhere I'm gonna leave the fan on if possible one of the horns isn't connected and hasn't been for a long time so I'm gonna get rid of it should buy me enough space sit it hard against the radiator mount it plumb it bump it back on the quarries mountains a bit of a compromise between getting the core into position where you're gonna get airflow into it it's not going to fail anything and you're also gonna get enough head on that pump because that pump needs a head of water sort of sitting on the impeller all the time so this bottom one is the one that drains out so the hot water goes into the top cools down comes back out here the cold water sits on the pump and the pump sends it up to the engine where the turbo does it's wishy wizzy things everyone has a good time so now it's just got to get this hose up into there only not like that I could work couldn't fix done easy a piece of welding wire bent into the appropriate shape makes a good template to then try and recreate using the tube bender this keeps a fairly even radius for the bends it's not perfect but it sure is easy and do-it-yourself a tube cutter makes neat cuts and then any really sharp bends can be achieved using pre-made 90-degree bends that can be soldered in place this is the same way the setup was running Miss Daisy and supported 260 kilowatts no problem at all to turn really happy with the progress that's been made the water the air intercooler is coming together really nicely so now that the stage of just sort of piecing everything back together and making some hoses all the fun stuff the really fun stuff is about to happen though and it's time to put in and ECU so the East are using a really interesting spot in these cars as well it's not where you'd normally expect them to be not under a kick panel in the front not under the bonnet no it is in the boot g'day mate as is David who's gonna help me do it hey man hey how are you is that nice to you in the craziest spot you've ever seen it's bizarre I've never seen an ECU that convenient are you really gonna come this is not too bad actually no the internet actually helped me with this because I was struggling to work on the engine and then someone said take the bot the boot off and sit in the boot to work look you comfortable you can reach like half the engine bay you know more jerking that far away beep Jay marching on Jacky very good so good so yeah I mean my looms here I'm just working out how our coil new coil loom he's gonna measure up so we're each gonna run we're gonna add some wires for stuff we don't have like one plug ignition yep but we're gonna use a factory wise for stuff we do have like our injectors throttle position sensor yeah so I'm gonna try and piece together an adapter harness all so we can just keep the plug as it is it's a really really common plug as far as cars of this era yeah every Evo had this plug this generation lots of Toyota's had this plug yeah rx-7 really model also knew that had this plug really really car WRX as well actually no three all the way through to 98 oh all had exactly the same plug so it's really really common yeah so I'll just make an adapter we will have to probably just do a beard a multimeter there's a lot of diagrams awful combination cuz this engine was insulated rias GT 8 on the car just want to make sure that we're going to get the injectors in the right place if the coil wire is in the right place coolant temp is in the right place at least if I know those core wires are in the right place I think will be pretty right for the rest of it right and then we'll make a couple of breakouts for the yaris coils that you're going to put on this yes I will make a breakout for the air temp sensor that you're going to put on there yes maybe they're loyal pressure yeah I'm not sure if I brought one but we'll have a look yeah we're gonna do flex fuel nice cut no no wait I'm gonna have to worry about that maybe we can add it in later yeah that's pretty cool don't just be a connector we can hook up sweet what's so close that's the thing if you want to do that stuff Oh half a meter of waring yeah attach it plug it in yes grommets right there it's ready to go we can remove whatever T's Japanese integrated stuff is may be working or not working is gone in the bin in the bin put the new stuff in in the better good time great AC jerky awesome mad let's do it I know you can stay there man how good is it yeah look outside it's actually really good so we can just use the grommets they're already there Yaris coils are an excellent bang for buck way to get coil on plug ignition onto your old car it does away with distributor rotors caps lead and other mechanical bits the original mr2 system is capable of making the power but I prefer the reliability and flexibility of this more modern setup luckily there was a Yaris in our lives recently so I rescued the coils before throwing all the useless parts in the beam it was a big beam we're gonna control them and everything else with our he'll take elite 1000 this is perfect for a foursome under street car being that we don't have an electronic throttle to worry about and it will be a breeze to tune we're also adding a wideband oxygen sensor boost control and air temp sensor his path brings me great joy deleting all this old 90s junk that just doesn't need to be here anymore because it's 30 years in the future and we can do it neater simpler with updated components at a cheap like the RS coils well free in our case cuz they came off your house Hilton thanks us Hilton so just pulling out the resistor packs for the injectors it's got the old-school injectors that need resistor thingies to make them squirt we don't need that anymore so that's going so the coil this is a coil and the ignition module so one coil distributor distributes to all the sparks we're getting rid of that and now we fire the coil packs individually it's just a nice modern new way to do it we can do it with a Hampton some very smart people in Japan would have had this car on the drawing board in the mid 80s and we're working with the available tech at the time all of this stuff is miniaturized now as electronics have become optimized smaller and better at managing heat Toyota also had its own peculiar ways of doing things different from many other manufacturers they don't all make a lot of sense but you can't argue with the fact that their cars often outlast many other makes Camrys anyone the plan is to slowly check each wire to confirm its circuit is where it's meant to be cross-referencing this with the ECU pin out and the wiring schematic for the car the only problem is a lot of it just doesn't work Dave oh I love noticing as we buzz this out that none of the colors on my and match the colors on your end and nothing on your diagram no matches both cars don't really know and I feel really bad about this but mm-hmm all that work you've done on that connector potentially is a waste of time I'm gonna say we abandon ship on the adapter purely because of even just this connector could it mean it's so rough had so much current being pulled through it yeah it's actually melted what is that what that is yeah I thought it was where from going in and out but not I so the contact was making such bad connection on the pin that it's actually created so much heat that the plug has started melting and the pins are falling out and they're melting together 30 years old and oh well there's insulted there's a cut-off man not as well what do you think the solution is chop back past all the cutting shot into fresh wires put some he'll take plugs on it done yep that's highly agree because we don't I mean we could rewire the entire engine also but no plug in people please well because also the connectors on this side are so crap as well you don't want to disturb them and try and repin yeah the factory staff yeah that's them all just buy new stuff they can which doesn't seem right we can fix we can we can repair and yes hopefully fixable I'm over the plugin beam partly because the Indians actually fairly simple - yeah we actually don't need that much during this run no we need the triggering we need a coolant temp we're wiring in a brand new air temp a boost control song we've done our coil wiring which is all brand new there is for opposition of course map sensor hose if the injector stuffs a bit weird we'll just make an injector loom I mean it's not that hard to work on this car just this mean so okay I will go and get started on thanks Dave that for you I'm sorry Dave oh good it's this common yeah I mean it's fight and flight snow buggy see you tomorrow day bye\n"