The Art of Redoing: A Lesson Learned from a Star Trek Hack Build

As I reflect on my recent Star Trek hack build, I am reminded that sometimes, as much as you don't want to, the only way that you're gonna get it done right is to redo it. This was certainly the case with my latest project, which involved airbrushing and clearcoating a model of an Imperial ship. The process was not without its challenges, and I made a few mistakes along the way that could have easily been avoided if I had taken the time to properly prepare the surface.

I started by applying paint to the model, but unfortunately, it didn't quite turn out as planned. The sticker had peeled off the paint, leaving behind a rough surface that was difficult to work with. This meant that I had to start over from scratch, stripping away all of the paint and beginning again from the metal. It was a time-consuming process, but one that ultimately resulted in a much better finish.

One of the key takeaways from this project is the importance of proper preparation. When working with airbrushing and clearcoating, it's easy to get caught up in the excitement of the process and overlook the little details that can make all the difference. But as I learned the hard way, failing to properly prepare the surface can lead to a host of problems, including uneven paint application and a lack of adhesion.

To avoid these pitfalls, I made sure to take the time to thoroughly clean and degrease the model before applying the paint. This involved using a solvent to remove any dirt or grime that may have accumulated on the surface, followed by a thorough rinse with water. I then applied a self-etching primer to help ensure a strong bond between the paint and the metal.

The end result was well worth the effort. The model's Imperial ship design turned out beautifully, with crisp lines and accurate details. The weathering effects added a touch of realism, giving the model a battle-worn look that was both impressive and intimidating. I was particularly pleased with how the blaster marks came out – they were incredibly detailed and looked like they had been applied by a professional.

One of the most interesting aspects of this project was the opportunity to experiment with different techniques and materials. For example, I decided to use a new type of paint that was specifically designed for airbrushing, which gave me a wide range of colors and textures to work with. I also experimented with different weathering effects, using a combination of paints and mediums to create a realistic look.

The cost of this project was relatively low, especially considering the complexity of the design and the materials involved. The paint alone cost around $30, while the plotter used to cut out the stencils for the decals was borrowed from a friend. In total, I estimate that the project cost around $60 – not bad for a finished model that's over 300 scales in size.

Overall, my Star Trek hack build has been an incredible learning experience. From the challenges of airbrushing and clearcoating to the importance of proper preparation and experimentation with different techniques and materials. While it wasn't always easy, the end result was well worth the effort – a beautifully finished model that's now proudly displayed in my home office.

A Galactic Remodel: My Thoughts on Star Trek as a Gaming Sim

As I looked around my completed Imperial ship model, I couldn't help but think about the similarities between building this project and playing Star Trek games. Both involve exploration, strategy, and diplomacy – all of which are key components of what makes Star Trek such an engaging game.

For me, Star Trek is all about galactic negotiation – navigating complex relationships between different alien species and civilizations to achieve common goals. It's a delicate balance between cooperation and competition, requiring a deep understanding of the intricacies of each civilization's culture and politics. And yet, despite its complexities, I find that Star Trek games are incredibly easy to pick up – once you understand the basics, it's just a matter of navigating through space, making decisions, and resolving conflicts.

One of my favorite aspects of Star Trek is the diversity of the game's universe. From the Klingons' warrior culture to the Romulans' cunning politics, each species brings its own unique perspective and challenges to the table. This is reflected in the many different ship designs available – from the Federation's sleek and efficient vessels to the Klingon's heavily armed and armored ships.

Of course, Star Trek games are not just about exploration and diplomacy – they also involve a healthy dose of combat and strategy. Whether I'm piloting my trusty Imperial ship through treacherous asteroid fields or facing off against rival fleets in dogfights, I find that Star Trek games offer an unparalleled sense of excitement and adventure.

A 300 Scale Bismarck: My Christmas Present for My Wife

As a gift for my wife, I decided to create a 300 scale model of the German battleship Bismarck. It was a fun project that allowed me to experiment with new techniques and materials, while also giving me an opportunity to practice my airbrushing skills.

The result is a beautifully detailed model that's both impressive and intimidating. The Bismarck's sleek lines and imposing size make it a formidable presence on any tabletop – and I was pleased to see how well the weathering effects captured the ship's battle-worn look.

One of the most interesting aspects of this project was the opportunity to experiment with different techniques and materials. For example, I decided to use a new type of paint that was specifically designed for airbrushing, which gave me a wide range of colors and textures to work with. I also experimented with different weathering effects, using a combination of paints and mediums to create a realistic look.

Overall, my 300 scale Bismarck model has been an incredible learning experience – from the challenges of airbrushing and clearcoating to the importance of proper preparation and experimentation with different techniques and materials. While it wasn't always easy, the end result was well worth the effort – a beautifully finished model that's now proudly displayed in my home office.

In conclusion, my recent Star Trek hack build has been an incredible learning experience that's taught me valuable lessons about airbrushing, clearcoating, and experimentation with different techniques and materials. Whether you're a seasoned modeler or just starting out, I highly recommend giving this project a try – it's sure to be both challenging and rewarding in equal measure.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enso Dreamhack is coming to Anaheim in well a couple weeks and one of the cool thing about Dreamhack is you got a lot of custom computers and stuff people ring and it's the first time than I'm aware of that they've come to the west coast in a long time if not ever I don't remember if Dreamhack was a part of that whole Nvidia mod 24 thing but regardless I'm going because I can't have a LAN party so close to my backyard and not go but I also can't go with a stock looking computer so we got to fix that today looking for a new PC or PC hardware then today's sponsor Micro Center is guaranteed to have what you need micro centers huge selection of hardware and devices along with their industry-leading prices mean you get more for your money this holiday season with build your own Micro Center carries the latest in PC tech from all major brands while passionate knowledgeable sales staff are available to assist you with your next build not comfortable building it yourself then certified in-store technicians can build it for you and as little as the same day to see all that Micro Center has to offer and to find the store closest to you click the sponsor link in the description below also - it's really really really windy today and our door wants to our insulation that I taped up wants to blow off so I've got like ladders and things all trying to hold that up from falling down and tires and shelving because I've been too lazy to actually come up with a permanent solution for that door and it's making a lot of noise so if you hear it I'm sorry also the the heater is on because it's 48 degrees right now and in SoCal temp that might as well be Antarctica but anyway Dreamhack is coming to SoCal and I'm not gonna miss it and I'm also not gonna show up with a stock computer cuz I'm Jays to freaking sense and I can't do that and I could show up with nebula but that's kind of a to move so small form-factor to where it's at so that's why I figured the perfect platform to do this is our Corsair one because it's a small compact system it's already got a 9900 K in there it's got all SSD and nvme it's got it's water-cooled it's got a 20 80 TI that's also water-cooled and I thought this would be the perfect platform to mod so the destiny to build that we did in the node 202 for mark I'm gonna be using the same techniques and this will be a fairly similar type of build in fact I liked the way his turned out so much I said I wanted my own so screwing my own version of sort of the same weathering techniques the paint chipping the undercoating the ceiling even the damage these are very robust panels and they're aluminum but they're very tough so I'm gonna be doing like a like a blaster impact like a laser impact on this probably the cool thing about this is when you're weathering and distressing there's no wrong way and if you screw something up it kind of only adds to the theme I guess but we're gonna be making this look very Star Wars inspired if you will but if you wanna know more about the techniques I'm doing on the painting side of things then you're gonna want to go and check out the Destiny tube build and I will try my best remember to put a link in the description below but it's a very simple technique that works really really well when you do it properly I've also already disassembled this thing fully that'd be cool if I had made it so that when it turns on anything in terms of the like paints and stuff I just use basic stuff I love BHT you can get it at autozone or anywhere auto paint is sold because it dries extremely fast we're using the primer because I don't want any metallics the problem is getting any sort of like a topcoat like a main like color coat for any of these brands they're all I'm like metallic key and I don't want a metallic I want like a flat battleship gray so we'll be using primer for that but we also we're gonna be having undercoat because of the chipping technique that is gonna be sort of just a silvery color I got a more disassembly I got to do so I got to take like these chrome pieces off right here they just screw in there and I'll be using my guard or some people were really disappointed that it and see another eye fix to add after our last one like once a month guys quite honestly if you guys want to know more about like the price of these kits and what's available there is a link to this down in the description below and that links directly to my Amazon affiliate so it also does give a little kick back to the channel if you guys decide to purchase anything and it doesn't cost you any extra so get something for your money rather than just me I love disassembling thing because I don't label anything I just sort of hope it all goes back together when I'm done and then these are probably the most over built panels period this is the base and this is the part that the fan goes in listen to this that's not satisfying uh anyway so I want to do like I said like a blaster impact the idea with the Destiny build is I got hit with that sword that was an easy gash to make but laser blasts are different they're almost a perfect circle and then there's kind of a smooth burning in as it goes so this is one of those things where I kind of only got one shot at this another reason why I don't want the gash to be too big or whatever is because this particular chassis is designed to only draw air through these vents and if I give it a big open place for it to pull air through that's air that won't come through here and that's how these radiators have cooling is there's no fans on the radiators because there's single fan on the top pulling air through the chassis so that's that convection assisted cooling so if I make a big blaster hole that is now an efficient way for it to bring air in that's gonna suck wish me luck see the trick is just don't think about it the crazy part is I'm gonna go in and now I'm gonna turn it I need a vacuum this is the worst vacuum I've ever owned any hearing protection there's no reason whoa what we learned is don't try to go to an angle until the holes in well as a kid I used to think like these go faster so that's probably where I'm gonna stop on the the damage effects because I really don't want to overdo it and I think you know the painting will really sell the effect but anything fill I mean one sides painted and you see the black scorching and stuff now I had to prep for paint we got the door open to the fan so it's noisy anyway um so this is the base coat we're going with here which is just like a a silver because we were kind of looking at some pictures online and it seemed like whenever there was weathering on these ships anything in Star Wars it always seemed to have like a white slash really light silver undercoat like the whatever the metal and stuff was we are going to be now just doing a coat or two of this silver but because it's not that much different than the primer I'm just gonna do like probably one really light coat and then because it'll stick to the primer really good and then I'll show you how we're gonna do the chipping like I said we did that in destiny to build so I won't go super in-depth but I'll show you how we do the weathering effect which is pretty cool and then we'll do some airbrushing and stuff on there that's my favorite part that worked out pretty well so that's two coats of primer and just one coat of the silver metallic and this this is our structure what I mean by that is this is our base coat what's gonna be underneath our actual color coat and this is what's gonna kind of show through when we do the weathering we're gonna do is we're gonna take hair spray dozen really matter what kind and we are just going to sort of apply it like some of the corners different areas and what's gonna happen is we're gonna spray the next color which is this darker more of a ks2 Oh kind of a look and wait that's 200 KS k2s oh yeah so I said right and then we will be chipping away some of this color and weathered areas to make this show or this show through that the other thing you kind of need to stress I need to stress with the hairspray is you need to let it dry like fully because if it's wet need spray over it it's just it just turns gummy and then you don't get the same effect that we're going for here so this is the top vent where the fan is and obviously I don't want to paint this to match I want this to be contrasting in like dark Phil and I were kind of talk about this he's like well would be neat though if you could weather that so I'm just like well you know why not do it for real if we want to make the metal underneath sort of show through but if we kind of focus on the corners it's kind of good to show through like that okay so the hairspray is completely dried now there's a loud truck out there sorry about that so now we're gonna put on our top coat so before I start doing anything with the hairspray I'm just gonna start getting our blaster marks back now I sprayed the blaster areas directly with the hairspray so that's why we're getting this nice immediate like chipping peeling effects but what's gonna really sell this just like I did with the Destiny build is I'm gonna be putting like black airbrushing on this to make it look scorched and then I'm kind of lifting as I go that way it has kind of like a taper sort of an effect to it what you need to do the chipping water I use a toothbrush I use just something pokey to get it started we'll start with the power button here something like that so that I give a place for the water to sort of start to get in there amen there we go I said I really don't want to overdo it if this is an imperial thing it probably won't have the same level of weathering is like a resistance because resistance had like old hand-me-down stuff and it's all like mandated together I'm just focusing on like the corners and stuff we're just gonna kind of more subtly give ourselves some weathering there's like a before and an after kind of ideal these will be black and obviously this is when the airbrush final work is done at the end there's no right or wrong way okay so what I need to do now is I need to clear coat this watch just see that's just going to continue to do that because of all the hairspray I barely touched it and it chipped up until I seal it and I'm gonna seal it now with the satin clear so we got these stickers made so we're gonna put the imperial logo here we're gonna put this verbage there then this Ridge is gonna go like right there so what we're gonna do is where we transferring this on there and then we're all be airbrushing and building a little booth again real quick but airbrushing this on there and then weathering it a little bit like we did with the warlock logo on the Destiny to build so I keep telling you guys go watch that video if you want to know how I'm doing all this even though I keep showing you how I'm doing it I wonder how much paint it's gonna take off to when I take the backing layer off oh wow look how much paint that's taking off with it that's okay just extra weathered now oh wow yeah see that's a complete fail there that all the all the paint stuck right there that sucks this is a much smoother surface the no 2 or 2 is much more textured which he had a lot of bite I barely touched it on there and the paint came up with it so it's almost 1:30 in the afternoon the next day and as you guys saw we had a major disaster where we realized the paint was not sticking to the aluminum and that's my fault a couple reasons one I didn't prep it properly I didn't sand it enough when we did the Destiny to build I keep referencing that because it's very similar technique but as you can see we are having very different results this is anodized aluminum this is bare metal even though aluminum has died it's still bare metal it's not a coating or anything like that it's extremely smooth the Destiny to build on the node 202 was on black powder coated steel so the powder coat was something that this paint was able to stick to very nicely especially when I sanded it so as you saw we tried to do our decal our stencil so that we could get to the final stages barely pushing it wall that when I push down a lot but we continue to mess with it and even if you barely touch anything tacky whatsoever to the paint we peeled it up it brought all the layers up all the way down to the primer it's where you saw the black metal underneath so I told me I did not do a good job at prepping it so we started over entirely by stripping everything off back to where the only thing that was done at that point was the holes I made to do it right we had to start over so what you see now is the results of a few things we've done today one completely stripped the metal back down sanded it with 80 grit to start really scuffed up the metal then I used a self etching primer which I should have done the first time the self etching primer sat on here it bit really hard into the metal it was actually a green primer did two layers of that and then saw that I was having a hard time even scratching it so then I ended up doing a silver metallic base coat and now we have on top of that I had done a matte clear just a single-stage matte clear now we have this sort of a this is not a primer but it is a a primer plus paint so there's even more primer on this now it's just sort of like a what they call it a it's like a matte gray I think it's something super basic like that and then we are where we are now where I've sanded this down I've alcohol wiped it it got I've gotten all of the like fingerprints and stuff off of it and then we got to the stage now and this is hard like this is really hard on here now so it's not pulling up so what we do is we got more stickers and we did a little test like okay can we put stickers on here and have it not pull up with paint well the answer is yes I already started pulling this logo back up because although this is not our final top coat we have to still do our chipping which you'll see is it's not taking any paint and even where I'll touch it with the tweezers like it barely marks we also got tired of trying to get vinyl companies or sticker companies to cut the stuff we wanted intend tell us you can't do that you can't use vinyl is gentle we just said screw you guys wait and by our own stencil or our own plotter and our own materials and we're doing it ourselves now stencil vinyl yeah so so Phil went over to Michael's crafts and with this funny because it's all like potpourri in there and like flowers is it you guys got vinyl cutter we need to make sticker frog our computer so what I wanted to show you was we were able to actually do this now and not have a problem yay so now we have to do once again the the chipping in the hairspray and I want to point out something too the hairspray was not the problem the layers between the hairspray actually stuck together so now we need to go ahead and do our chipping technique on here again I'm gonna change the way I did that a little bit I wasn't happy with the way that turned out so I'm kind of glad this went the way it did and then while that's all drying we're gonna play around with some of our stencil cutting and get that all sort or ghen eyes how we want and then today we can finish this build it was almost a one-day build from jr1 day mada should say i didn't really build the computer but let's go ahead and get back to where we left off yesterday okay I'm not gonna lie I'm Way happier with the way this turned out versus the last one a little bit excessive chipping right there but that's fine I got a little crazy with the hairspray I think I like the way this color turned out it's a little bit different shades of grey huh one of the many of 50 shades so what I got to do now before I take my airbrush I might get a little set up right here as I've got to transfer the logos to their various spots somebody that works with graphics all day long like like for signs she's like oh my god you're taking for everything you've done already it's like anything else if you do it for a living then you develop all these tricks that save you time because time is money right so now if we do a little test here because I did it right this time so looking at this obviously the letters are way too clean but I do plan on lightly sanding them just to weather it slightly let be a little bit faded so we know the logos gonna look dope and a lot of these like scratches that you're seeing they'll just appear when I clear it again so this is before any weathering or standing on the letters and this is accurate so now it looks like it's gone through space and it doesn't you can't even feel like the airbrush paint sticks so well you can't even feel those letters it's not gonna do it with the logo so this is just a half folded in in half piece of p3 twin or 320-grit which is like it's designed to go in a Velcro block but I fold it over in half side a point to work with because that's a big logo obviously we would have had flat surface area like in these big areas where they would have taken impacts and stuff clearly this ship or whatever this is a scene battle which is what I wanted obviously with these holes right here which turned out phenomenal and I'm not even done with them yet we need to weather up the surface areas the flat surface areas of this logo so I'm just kind of putting some scratches in here maybe surprised how well this airbrush paint is sticking now that I've gone in here and fixed this all right well I dirtied this up because we imagine that this would be engine exhaust vents or heat vents or something I don't know I just wanted to break up the super smoothness of it it's probably a little more weather than an imperial ship would be but I'm imagine this is right after the Battle of Endor or something I don't know I mean it's got to be during that period because that's the logo we're using but this is the second to the last step I'm wiping off all the kind of a dust that appears with the airbrushing and then we're gonna clearcoat it and put it back together so with all that said how about we just go ahead and jump light speed ahead so what it looks like done it took twice the effort but it was worth it if there's one lesson to be learned from this video it's that sometimes as much as you don't want to the only way that you're gonna get it done right is to redo it if you make a big mistake like we did or I did with the prepping and the way the sticker took the paint off I'm telling you right now this like is sturdy this paint is going nowhere I couldn't even stand off the logo if I wanted I'm telling you right now it's like I came and scratch it with my finger that's a little more dirty than we think an imperial ship would really look but I'm also thinking like this is kind of how it would look after surviving a battle and I turned out way better I think that I thought it was going to the accent color like the black on the top and the bottom the weathering the blaster marks you guys saw how I made that that turned out well very very accurate these blasters are too accurate to be sand people so this is now gonna be my like land party Reagan and I'm tempted to just bring this home and leave nebula here because it looks so good no I mean no nebulas awesome I just my I haven't even started my home office remodel yet so there you go guys if there's I mean it's not hard and really with the exception of the cost of getting the materials and the plotter to cut our own stencils from now on instead paying someone to do it there was very little cost involved in this it's maybe thirty dollars in materials for pit spray-paint and such and then if you know someone that's got a plotter then it's like the cost of a roll of vinyl for the or even the stencil vinyl like we use is like eight bucks how much was that roll like eight dollars ten dollars yeah there's like buy one get one free or something wasn't it yeah so there you go so this whole mod I would say if we didn't have to buy the plotter if it went right the first time this would have cost like 60 bucks to do because it's just paint I didn't do anything special with the build I didn't even touch the insides that's why it's actually up and running and I was able to do it in two days or would have been one day if I didn't screw it up the first time and as unhappy as I was and Phil will tell you I was pretty pissed last night when the paint came up and we just stopped filming abruptly because I was just like man I want to do this all again but I knew I told Phil if I'm gonna do this right I've got to strip it and so I took all the paint off all the way back down to the metal and did it right by properly sanding it properly degreasing it and then using the self etching primer so there you go guys there is my dream hack build that I'm gonna be playing on when I go to Dreamhack Anaheim so if you guys are going and you want to see it in person just kind of come up and take a look at it maybe take a picture but if I'm gaming talk to me about it later because I'm looking forward to actually playing some games and stuff but there you go guys thanks for watching hopefully you guys enjoyed it maybe you learned some things because that's the whole point of this channel and you can see that feels like you should do a Star Trek one next but that's like we did destiny too and then I did nebula which is super clean so there's Star Wars where Wars actually happen and then there's Star Trek where it's just galactic yes it's it's galactic negotiation sim or whatever you want to call it I mean it really just lets go talk about it you know that would have to be a super-clean you know commit is a Marriot so it is a flying Marriot ship it's a cruise ship alright I'm just gonna go because I'm pissing people off I'm sure so I like both okay guys TNG all the way I like boats and both I like both boats so this is my 300 scale or 350 scale Bismarck that I did and then this was my Christmas present for my wife this is a not Lego but it's Kobe and it's another Bismarck just funny I'm not like obsessed with the Bismarck Reni thing has a really interesting history I kind of wanted to do the Yamato butso Dreamhack is coming to Anaheim in well a couple weeks and one of the cool thing about Dreamhack is you got a lot of custom computers and stuff people ring and it's the first time than I'm aware of that they've come to the west coast in a long time if not ever I don't remember if Dreamhack was a part of that whole Nvidia mod 24 thing but regardless I'm going because I can't have a LAN party so close to my backyard and not go but I also can't go with a stock looking computer so we got to fix that today looking for a new PC or PC hardware then today's sponsor Micro Center is guaranteed to have what you need micro centers huge selection of hardware and devices along with their industry-leading prices mean you get more for your money this holiday season with build your own Micro Center carries the latest in PC tech from all major brands while passionate knowledgeable sales staff are available to assist you with your next build not comfortable building it yourself then certified in-store technicians can build it for you and as little as the same day to see all that Micro Center has to offer and to find the store closest to you click the sponsor link in the description below also - it's really really really windy today and our door wants to our insulation that I taped up wants to blow off so I've got like ladders and things all trying to hold that up from falling down and tires and shelving because I've been too lazy to actually come up with a permanent solution for that door and it's making a lot of noise so if you hear it I'm sorry also the the heater is on because it's 48 degrees right now and in SoCal temp that might as well be Antarctica but anyway Dreamhack is coming to SoCal and I'm not gonna miss it and I'm also not gonna show up with a stock computer cuz I'm Jays to freaking sense and I can't do that and I could show up with nebula but that's kind of a to move so small form-factor to where it's at so that's why I figured the perfect platform to do this is our Corsair one because it's a small compact system it's already got a 9900 K in there it's got all SSD and nvme it's got it's water-cooled it's got a 20 80 TI that's also water-cooled and I thought this would be the perfect platform to mod so the destiny to build that we did in the node 202 for mark I'm gonna be using the same techniques and this will be a fairly similar type of build in fact I liked the way his turned out so much I said I wanted my own so screwing my own version of sort of the same weathering techniques the paint chipping the undercoating the ceiling even the damage these are very robust panels and they're aluminum but they're very tough so I'm gonna be doing like a like a blaster impact like a laser impact on this probably the cool thing about this is when you're weathering and distressing there's no wrong way and if you screw something up it kind of only adds to the theme I guess but we're gonna be making this look very Star Wars inspired if you will but if you wanna know more about the techniques I'm doing on the painting side of things then you're gonna want to go and check out the Destiny tube build and I will try my best remember to put a link in the description below but it's a very simple technique that works really really well when you do it properly I've also already disassembled this thing fully that'd be cool if I had made it so that when it turns on anything in terms of the like paints and stuff I just use basic stuff I love BHT you can get it at autozone or anywhere auto paint is sold because it dries extremely fast we're using the primer because I don't want any metallics the problem is getting any sort of like a topcoat like a main like color coat for any of these brands they're all I'm like metallic key and I don't want a metallic I want like a flat battleship gray so we'll be using primer for that but we also we're gonna be having undercoat because of the chipping technique that is gonna be sort of just a silvery color I got a more disassembly I got to do so I got to take like these chrome pieces off right here they just screw in there and I'll be using my guard or some people were really disappointed that it and see another eye fix to add after our last one like once a month guys quite honestly if you guys want to know more about like the price of these kits and what's available there is a link to this down in the description below and that links directly to my Amazon affiliate so it also does give a little kick back to the channel if you guys decide to purchase anything and it doesn't cost you any extra so get something for your money rather than just me I love disassembling thing because I don't label anything I just sort of hope it all goes back together when I'm done and then these are probably the most over built panels period this is the base and this is the part that the fan goes in listen to this that's not satisfying uh anyway so I want to do like I said like a blaster impact the idea with the Destiny build is I got hit with that sword that was an easy gash to make but laser blasts are different they're almost a perfect circle and then there's kind of a smooth burning in as it goes so this is one of those things where I kind of only got one shot at this another reason why I don't want the gash to be too big or whatever is because this particular chassis is designed to only draw air through these vents and if I give it a big open place for it to pull air through that's air that won't come through here and that's how these radiators have cooling is there's no fans on the radiators because there's single fan on the top pulling air through the chassis so that's that convection assisted cooling so if I make a big blaster hole that is now an efficient way for it to bring air in that's gonna suck wish me luck see the trick is just don't think about it the crazy part is I'm gonna go in and now I'm gonna turn it I need a vacuum this is the worst vacuum I've ever owned any hearing protection there's no reason whoa what we learned is don't try to go to an angle until the holes in well as a kid I used to think like these go faster so that's probably where I'm gonna stop on the the damage effects because I really don't want to overdo it and I think you know the painting will really sell the effect but anything fill I mean one sides painted and you see the black scorching and stuff now I had to prep for paint we got the door open to the fan so it's noisy anyway um so this is the base coat we're going with here which is just like a a silver because we were kind of looking at some pictures online and it seemed like whenever there was weathering on these ships anything in Star Wars it always seemed to have like a white slash really light silver undercoat like the whatever the metal and stuff was we are going to be now just doing a coat or two of this silver but because it's not that much different than the primer I'm just gonna do like probably one really light coat and then because it'll stick to the primer really good and then I'll show you how we're gonna do the chipping like I said we did that in destiny to build so I won't go super in-depth but I'll show you how we do the weathering effect which is pretty cool and then we'll do some airbrushing and stuff on there that's my favorite part that worked out pretty well so that's two coats of primer and just one coat of the silver metallic and this this is our structure what I mean by that is this is our base coat what's gonna be underneath our actual color coat and this is what's gonna kind of show through when we do the weathering we're gonna do is we're gonna take hair spray dozen really matter what kind and we are just going to sort of apply it like some of the corners different areas and what's gonna happen is we're gonna spray the next color which is this darker more of a ks2 Oh kind of a look and wait that's 200 KS k2s oh yeah so I said right and then we will be chipping away some of this color and weathered areas to make this show or this show through that the other thing you kind of need to stress I need to stress with the hairspray is you need to let it dry like fully because if it's wet need spray over it it's just it just turns gummy and then you don't get the same effect that we're going for here so this is the top vent where the fan is and obviously I don't want to paint this to match I want this to be contrasting in like dark Phil and I were kind of talk about this he's like well would be neat though if you could weather that so I'm just like well you know why not do it for real if we want to make the metal underneath sort of show through but if we kind of focus on the corners it's kind of good to show through like that okay so the hairspray is completely dried now there's a loud truck out there sorry about that so now we're gonna put on our top coat so before I start doing anything with the hairspray I'm just gonna start getting our blaster marks back now I sprayed the blaster areas directly with the hairspray so that's why we're getting this nice immediate like chipping peeling effects but what's gonna really sell this just like I did with the Destiny build is I'm gonna be putting like black airbrushing on this to make it look scorched and then I'm kind of lifting as I go that way it has kind of like a taper sort of an effect to it what you need to do the chipping water I use a toothbrush I use just something pokey to get it started we'll start with the power button here something like that so that I give a place for the water to sort of start to get in there amen there we go I said I really don't want to overdo it if this is an imperial thing it probably won't have the same level of weathering is like a resistance because resistance had like old hand-me-down stuff and it's all like mandated together I'm just focusing on like the corners and stuff we're just gonna kind of more subtly give ourselves some weathering there's like a before and an after kind of ideal these will be black and obviously this is when the airbrush final work is done at the end there's no right or wrong way okay so what I need to do now is I need to clear coat this watch just see that's just going to continue to do that because of all the hairspray I barely touched it and it chipped up until I seal it and I'm gonna seal it now with the satin clear so we got these stickers made so we're gonna put the imperial logo here we're gonna put this verbage there then this Ridge is gonna go like right there so what we're gonna do is where we transferring this on there and then we're all be airbrushing and building a little booth again real quick but airbrushing this on there and then weathering it a little bit like we did with the warlock logo on the Destiny to build so I keep telling you guys go watch that video if you want to know how I'm doing all this even though I keep showing you how I'm doing it I wonder how much paint it's gonna take off to when I take the backing layer off oh wow look how much paint that's taking off with it that's okay just extra weathered now oh wow yeah see that's a complete fail there that all the all the paint stuck right there that sucks this is a much smoother surface the no 2 or 2 is much more textured which he had a lot of bite I barely touched it on there and the paint came up with it so it's almost 1:30 in the afternoon the next day and as you guys saw we had a major disaster where we realized the paint was not sticking to the aluminum and that's my fault a couple reasons one I didn't prep it properly I didn't sand it enough when we did the Destiny to build I keep referencing that because it's very similar technique but as you can see we are having very different results this is anodized aluminum this is bare metal even though aluminum has died it's still bare metal it's not a coating or anything like that it's extremely smooth the Destiny to build on the node 202 was on black powder coated steel so the powder coat was something that this paint was able to stick to very nicely especially when I sanded it so as you saw we tried to do our decal our stencil so that we could get to the final stages barely pushing it wall that when I push down a lot but we continue to mess with it and even if you barely touch anything tacky whatsoever to the paint we peeled it up it brought all the layers up all the way down to the primer it's where you saw the black metal underneath so I told me I did not do a good job at prepping it so we started over entirely by stripping everything off back to where the only thing that was done at that point was the holes I made to do it right we had to start over so what you see now is the results of a few things we've done today one completely stripped the metal back down sanded it with 80 grit to start really scuffed up the metal then I used a self etching primer which I should have done the first time the self etching primer sat on here it bit really hard into the metal it was actually a green primer did two layers of that and then saw that I was having a hard time even scratching it so then I ended up doing a silver metallic base coat and now we have on top of that I had done a matte clear just a single-stage matte clear now we have this sort of a this is not a primer but it is a a primer plus paint so there's even more primer on this now it's just sort of like a what they call it a it's like a matte gray I think it's something super basic like that and then we are where we are now where I've sanded this down I've alcohol wiped it it got I've gotten all of the like fingerprints and stuff off of it and then we got to the stage now and this is hard like this is really hard on here now so it's not pulling up so what we do is we got more stickers and we did a little test like okay can we put stickers on here and have it not pull up with paint well the answer is yes I already started pulling this logo back up because although this is not our final top coat we have to still do our chipping which you'll see is it's not taking any paint and even where I'll touch it with the tweezers like it barely marks we also got tired of trying to get vinyl companies or sticker companies to cut the stuff we wanted intend tell us you can't do that you can't use vinyl is gentle we just said screw you guys wait and by our own stencil or our own plotter and our own materials and we're doing it ourselves now stencil vinyl yeah so so Phil went over to Michael's crafts and with this funny because it's all like potpourri in there and like flowers is it you guys got vinyl cutter we need to make sticker frog our computer so what I wanted to show you was we were able to actually do this now and not have a problem yay so now we have to do once again the the chipping in the hairspray and I want to point out something too the hairspray was not the problem the layers between the hairspray actually stuck together so now we need to go ahead and do our chipping technique on here again I'm gonna change the way I did that a little bit I wasn't happy with the way that turned out so I'm kind of glad this went the way it did and then while that's all drying we're gonna play around with some of our stencil cutting and get that all sort or ghen eyes how we want and then today we can finish this build it was almost a one-day build from jr1 day mada should say i didn't really build the computer but let's go ahead and get back to where we left off yesterday okay I'm not gonna lie I'm Way happier with the way this turned out versus the last one a little bit excessive chipping right there but that's fine I got a little crazy with the hairspray I think I like the way this color turned out it's a little bit different shades of grey huh one of the many of 50 shades so what I got to do now before I take my airbrush I might get a little set up right here as I've got to transfer the logos to their various spots somebody that works with graphics all day long like like for signs she's like oh my god you're taking for everything you've done already it's like anything else if you do it for a living then you develop all these tricks that save you time because time is money right so now if we do a little test here because I did it right this time so looking at this obviously the letters are way too clean but I do plan on lightly sanding them just to weather it slightly let be a little bit faded so we know the logos gonna look dope and a lot of these like scratches that you're seeing they'll just appear when I clear it again so this is before any weathering or standing on the letters and this is accurate so now it looks like it's gone through space and it doesn't you can't even feel like the airbrush paint sticks so well you can't even feel those letters it's not gonna do it with the logo so this is just a half folded in in half piece of p3 twin or 320-grit which is like it's designed to go in a Velcro block but I fold it over in half side a point to work with because that's a big logo obviously we would have had flat surface area like in these big areas where they would have taken impacts and stuff clearly this ship or whatever this is a scene battle which is what I wanted obviously with these holes right here which turned out phenomenal and I'm not even done with them yet we need to weather up the surface areas the flat surface areas of this logo so I'm just kind of putting some scratches in here maybe surprised how well this airbrush paint is sticking now that I've gone in here and fixed this all right well I dirtied this up because we imagine that this would be engine exhaust vents or heat vents or something I don't know I just wanted to break up the super smoothness of it it's probably a little more weather than an imperial ship would be but I'm imagine this is right after the Battle of Endor or something I don't know I mean it's got to be during that period because that's the logo we're using but this is the second to the last step I'm wiping off all the kind of a dust that appears with the airbrushing and then we're gonna clearcoat it and put it back together so with all that said how about we just go ahead and jump light speed ahead so what it looks like done it took twice the effort but it was worth it if there's one lesson to be learned from this video it's that sometimes as much as you don't want to the only way that you're gonna get it done right is to redo it if you make a big mistake like we did or I did with the prepping and the way the sticker took the paint off I'm telling you right now this like is sturdy this paint is going nowhere I couldn't even stand off the logo if I wanted I'm telling you right now it's like I came and scratch it with my finger that's a little more dirty than we think an imperial ship would really look but I'm also thinking like this is kind of how it would look after surviving a battle and I turned out way better I think that I thought it was going to the accent color like the black on the top and the bottom the weathering the blaster marks you guys saw how I made that that turned out well very very accurate these blasters are too accurate to be sand people so this is now gonna be my like land party Reagan and I'm tempted to just bring this home and leave nebula here because it looks so good no I mean no nebulas awesome I just my I haven't even started my home office remodel yet so there you go guys if there's I mean it's not hard and really with the exception of the cost of getting the materials and the plotter to cut our own stencils from now on instead paying someone to do it there was very little cost involved in this it's maybe thirty dollars in materials for pit spray-paint and such and then if you know someone that's got a plotter then it's like the cost of a roll of vinyl for the or even the stencil vinyl like we use is like eight bucks how much was that roll like eight dollars ten dollars yeah there's like buy one get one free or something wasn't it yeah so there you go so this whole mod I would say if we didn't have to buy the plotter if it went right the first time this would have cost like 60 bucks to do because it's just paint I didn't do anything special with the build I didn't even touch the insides that's why it's actually up and running and I was able to do it in two days or would have been one day if I didn't screw it up the first time and as unhappy as I was and Phil will tell you I was pretty pissed last night when the paint came up and we just stopped filming abruptly because I was just like man I want to do this all again but I knew I told Phil if I'm gonna do this right I've got to strip it and so I took all the paint off all the way back down to the metal and did it right by properly sanding it properly degreasing it and then using the self etching primer so there you go guys there is my dream hack build that I'm gonna be playing on when I go to Dreamhack Anaheim so if you guys are going and you want to see it in person just kind of come up and take a look at it maybe take a picture but if I'm gaming talk to me about it later because I'm looking forward to actually playing some games and stuff but there you go guys thanks for watching hopefully you guys enjoyed it maybe you learned some things because that's the whole point of this channel and you can see that feels like you should do a Star Trek one next but that's like we did destiny too and then I did nebula which is super clean so there's Star Wars where Wars actually happen and then there's Star Trek where it's just galactic yes it's it's galactic negotiation sim or whatever you want to call it I mean it really just lets go talk about it you know that would have to be a super-clean you know commit is a Marriot so it is a flying Marriot ship it's a cruise ship alright I'm just gonna go because I'm pissing people off I'm sure so I like both okay guys TNG all the way I like boats and both I like both boats so this is my 300 scale or 350 scale Bismarck that I did and then this was my Christmas present for my wife this is a not Lego but it's Kobe and it's another Bismarck just funny I'm not like obsessed with the Bismarck Reni thing has a really interesting history I kind of wanted to do the Yamato but\n"