**The Cabin Build: Floor Joist System Installation**

If I slide this this way I think it's going to stay there those should be out of the way now so we'll just get the post uh posts underneath there close and then I can check them for Plum and everything after that quite Gusty today the wind it's better than the rain we've been having I mean we need rain last year it was so dry we had forest fires everywhere but last couple weeks have been kind of extreme okay so we're in the ballpark there do the same thing with this one oh oh I went the fourth hole believe me when I tell you when you're working with these don't ever forget about those plates not being secure because you don't want them falling on your head and don't ask me how I know okay so I've just kind of got them finger snug up there oops so that I can move things around a little bit and I'll just uh check them for Plum like I said I kind of had a position at the floor that I kind of would like these to stay so I'm pretty good so that one's pretty nice oop oops wrong way that's deadly okay so so uh now I can take a wrench now I'll just snug those up once uh once we get the subfloor and that on a little bit of weight on this I'll come down and readjust get everything how I want it but for now I just we know that we put that straight piece across there so we should be pretty flat I just want to kind of take up I don't want to lift them off the wall over there just kind of get some weight off them then I'm going to take these I don't know what they are inch and 3/4 Jr what are they grk screws but they're basically a structural screw they don't come with the pole you could use a leg bolt I like these cuz you usually don't have to pre-drill so that'll keep that plate for moving up there my plate Twisted a little bit okay so that will keep those plates from uh slipping and sliding the ones on the floor I will fasten to the concrete as well we don't have INF floor heat tubing or anything like that uh so I don't have to worry about that but if you do have inflor heat be cautious of of that uh if you had infloor heat I would probably just use some peel adhesive and stick them to the floor once that they won't go anywhere but I just don't have my drill right now but I will put a couple anchors in there just some uh looks like they're about I don't know they might be quarter in holes so I'll use some quarter inch hammer and anchors and bolt those plates to the floor as well so like I said this this works well and is a little bit cheaper than doing the you know the engineered beams and stuff at each end like I had mentioned before and this is going to be a wall anyways so it's nice and thick and it'll hide those posts.

**The Supporting System**

You can see that I'm supporting this is the very first cut off joist at this end this is a full one this is the very first cut off joist I'm supporting all the other cut off joists plus I'm supporting this joist that's full length where the top of the stairs will be attached to and it'll just give it take a little bit of Bounce out of the stairs so the stairs when they're in here are going to be coming down here back in that area. This is the main support system for the floor joists, which will provide stability and prevent the floor from sagging.

**Toenailing the Rim Board**

I've got a little bit more blocking to do here and there and uh some final little touches and then we're going to do the sheathing and there'll be a video for that so uh keep watching for it this cabin build we're going to have a ton of videos you're not going to want to miss any of them so again click the thumbs up subscribe to our Channel and uh share with all your friends on Facebook.

**The Final Check**

Now that the floor joist system is in place, I'll need to check my Plum of my poles it's actually pretty flush now but I probably will have to adjust my Plum just a little bit so I think that's that's the main gist of everything that I want to show you there uh the floor joist system is just about complete.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enwhat was the point I was getting to uh oh yes hi it's Shannon here from host improvements.com and in the previous video you seen me install these floor joist on the cabin build and in today's video I want to show you how to deal with the stairwell opening how to finish framing that for the floor joist so I've got a few things prepped up here I've built the outer section that's just solely sitting on the basement wall so this Inside Edge is just flush with the inside of the basement wall and obviously this is flush with the outside uh this area here obviously before you sheet the floor it's going to have to be insulated because you're not going to be able to get into it again because it's all closed up so make sure you don't forget to insulate areas like that before you put your sheeting down uh just to talk about a few things so how did I determine my opening size well most times if you're working off a plan that's all going to be predetermined for you so in my case uh I had that all figured out on my drawing and uh just simply took some measurements got everything uh measured off and cut to what I needed and I already installed those floor joists that are cut short as you can see including the blocking along the beam and everything so so in today's video I'm going to show you how to install that Rim piece that you see laying on top to the end of those cut joist and then uh we can't just leave that whole thing in this case like that we need to support that uh those floor joists that are hanging off the beam we need to support it with another beam and post underneath now I like this system when the stairwell is perpendicular with the uh floor joist uh as opposed to some more expensive systems where you've actually got to replace this floor joist with a uh uh like a engineered beam right from the steel beam in the house over to the edge and as well this one would have to be an engineered beam as well instead of just a regular floor joist with this system here because I'm already going to have a wall anyways along the stair case uh in the basement there's no reason that I can't have a a beam and post supporting those floor joist hidden in that wall and it's it just saves all it probably saves uh probably a couple thousand dollar actually on this particular setup so you still need a beam and everything to support that but you just have a little less materials and engineered products than uh doing it the other way so I think uh that's about it for the intro we'll get right into this okay so I'm down working off a a scaffold so I can be down a decent level here to to do this so this is the plate so this is actually going to go on like that onto the end here I've already got it pre-marked out here and all I all I had to do to figure out those marks is just basically measure what my layout is which is 16 on 16 in on Center cuz this here is going to go right against this last ful length uh joist so it's just continue uh a continuation of my 16inch centers so that's marked out I added a block on both ends on the bottom side of the two end joist just so when I flip this down it can sit on there and I don't have to actually hold that thing up and balance and nail and everything else it it will basically sit there while I work so basically the nailing pattern is just going to be I'll be nailing through this into these ends so I'm just just going to be putting One Nail in each one uh that's really all you need because this whole end is going to be then supported by the beam underneath so this is really just lipstick on a pig it's just finishing this opening and uh basically keeping the spacing of these joist so uh so there's nothing real structural about this this beam here or this piece here and this is the same material as I used on the whole rest of the outside uh floor system and you will would have seen that in the previous video as long as you watched it go check it out while I'm on that topic click the thumbs up subscribe to the channel I know you like what you see you keep coming back oops now I just won't put it backwards got me distracted so I can set that down on my blocks and it'll basically sit there and I'm using a 3 and 1/2 in uh ring shank nails so what I'm going to do is I'm going to flush these to the bottom of this piece so I'll just lift that up to my mark oops and turn the nailer on here we go so I'm just going to continue on all the way along there nailing each one and then on these these ends I don't think I mentioned that actually okay so these are the floor joist that we're using so these are a tji this is the abbreviation for them uh to be quite honest I don't even know what that stands for so common uh term though for in construction for this type of joist so we basically have an OSB web and then uh the top and bottom cords in this case they're solid lumber on on these ones but sometimes they'll even be engineered uh Lumber like this uh but these ones are solid wood prefer the solid wood ones uh this this is a 9 and 1/2 in TGI tji uh they come in different heights so depending on your span whatever they'll be specked differently what was the point I was getting to uh oh yes so you notice we have a void here right on these particular ones this is a this is 1 in difference from the face here to there so what I what I did in the very two end tjis that went full length is I needed to fill in that void and I just simply used two layers a/2 in plywood to to create a flat surface here so that'll that'll do a couple things that'll help with drywalling cuz we can just drywall right across it or whatever but it also gives me a nice surface here to nail through because I'm going to nail through that web into the end of these at both ends again remember none of this is structural if it was structural we'd be doing joist hangers and everything which you still could do if you wanted to but uh it's really not needed in this case since this is going to be supported by a beam from the bottom anyways sliver uh so I had a mark over here which is this face of of this uh joist and I know it's sitting down on my block down here so I can uh put a few nails through the end of it and that's just to keep keep it from twisting or anything hey they all even hit the wood perfect okay same thing on this side I've got a Mark here already and I'm just going to fire through this back side of the web through that thickened part that I added on this side and into the into the rim that one felt like it missed but it didn't Okay so we've got that all nice and solid but there'll be some bounce out here right because this still isn't structurally strong enough hanging off that that beam that's over there or whatever it is 8 ft away where those blocks are so that's why we need to now go in the basement and support that with a proper uh beam and uh telepost that'll be our next step oh man those are in there those ring shank nails hold don't want to knock my new saw off oops okay okay so now we're down in the basement uh this is you can obviously see the stairwell opening here this is where the beam's going to go it's going to sit right underneath here flush to this inside and back to wherever it ends up here these each one of these pieces is inch and 3/4 I believe yeah so will be uh 3 and 1 half in thick total when it's when it's built I want to catch this joist here with the end of the beam and it doesn't have to catch this one I think it ends up just catching this last short one somewhere here I forget just where it stops I know I cut it at 10 ft now you might be wondering what the straps are about so I was just doing some redneck engineering thinking about this and uh I thought just trying to figure out how I can hold that beam up there till I get my post all in place and everything so we just hung some ratchet straps one at each end so we should be able to stick the beam through this so it'll hang off of there on both ends I can kind of suck it up pretty pretty close I think with the ratchet straps as well so we'll see it might be a fail but it'll hold it up there and keep it from falling on our heads anyways now I had mentioned that uh there's going to be telepost under here so I've got a mark on the floor pretty much where I want them hopefully to be and part of that is that underneath the concrete floor there's a there's a concrete footing an 8 in thick footing that's uh I think they were 30 in by 30 in so there's extra reinforcement there so I mean we've got some play right to left here but uh I pretty much need to be centered this way uh so that I end up in the wall where I want it to be but I do have a little bit of Play This Way couple inches one way or the other isn't going to make a huge difference so to start out with I'm going to nail this LVL together so this is uh basically an engineered laminated beam uh this particular one's made out of plywood you can get them made out of like uh almost like OSB it's not quite the same but it's similar uh but this one's plywood it's going to be two PES I already said they're inch and 3/4 each and uh this load this beam is going to be just top loaded so really we we only need to nail uh on this height of beam uh four Nails every 12 in on one side but I I'm probably going to I am going to nail it on both sides it's just force a habit but uh when you're dealing with these types of beams there's no Crown to them or anything so you don't need to look for a crown uh just basically flush them up and uh uh on the on the ends and the bottom and uh nail it off so so I'm going to start by doing that so I've got uh what are those 3 and a/4 in Nails in my nailer this is going to be a total of 3 and 1/2 in so they shouldn't poke through the other side if I was nailing a just normal one by type boards together and it was only 3 inches thick these nails would poke through the other side but if you nail them at a bit of an angle then uh usually they won't come through the other side so just a little little Pro tip there for you in this case I can just nail straight in not have to worry so we look pretty good there a lot of nail guns will not nail these nails flush into this type of material this this Milwaukee is incredible okay so I don't think I mentioned I mentioned the thickness but the uh total height this is 9 and2 so it's actually the same uh same height as our floor joist and again these these can come in all different uh Heights maybe maybe what I'll do I'll preet up my telepost get them set up roughly to height and then that way uh it's less time that the beam has to hang in that in those straps there so that is uh 93 and we'll call it 38 that's about a quarter so we need to be in that range minus our 9 and2 so easiest way to do something like this uh without hurting your brain doing math I know to the top of this is going to be about 93 and 38 or a quar I just line my tape up and read what it is down here and that's that's what I need for my post height so we're looking for about 83 and 1 half would get us close and then I can adjust it from there okay so these posts uh what was specked I think was speced for 3,000 lb posts these posts are like 8,000 lb so I've got more than enough post more than enough strength I should say so these uh these posts are adjustable so all the parts are what you see here okay so you've got a plate plate for the top plate for the bottom uh sorry I should rephrase that one plate for the bottom of the post and the the top plate actually goes on the underside of the beam that you're mounting okay uh this pin fits in these holes this is what makes the post adjustable so you can get it close to what you need put this pin through the hole it slides down and then this is your adjustable part of this this uh telepost so this would sit in in the top of the post and this is on the underside of your your beam or whatever you're supporting so it sit like that there's a hole in there and the pin on the top of here needs to needs to go in there okay now something else if you look on these plates there's these three little Nubs um I always like to put those up against the wood so that when you get some pressure on there those kind of sink in there and it basically holds it in place but we will be installing bolts as well but uh just good practice to put those up uh on the concrete you can't really can't really put them up so then they go inside the post which is honestly what they're really for but just about everybody does it the other way so so yeah so the bottom one those are in the post and that just gives the post a little bit of something to come up against if it happens to get smacked or whatever okay uh so anybody remember that number cuz I don't 93 and 5/8 I think or 38 was our total uh 83 and a half so we've got we've got to kind of include these thicknesses as well so we need about another 6 in for that so 83 and2 2 three four five six we're somewhere in that range okay so these posts are made to do a lot of different heights so now for the height we need I've pulled it out far enough that there's no more holes right but all you have to do is flip the around now and that that basically gives you what you need one two three four so somewhere in that range we'll try we'll sneak up to this hole I think that'll still work come on in there okay and on that pin so that pin that goes through there those holes there's these little indents those need to go down and they hook in the top of the lower part of the pipe and that's so that once there's weight on there that pin can't slide one way or the other so I think at that position we're going to be I think we're going to be all right I'll just give a little quick check here yeah we were looking for about 85 and a half so we should be really close right there sorry I keep dropping that plate it's probably loud so I'll get these posts just laid close for now so remember I had the crosshairs here on the floor for my post location so with that hole in the middle I can actually line that up if I want to get some marks out on the outside just to give me a better idea once I'm moving that post around cuz I'm not going to see my crosshairs once that Plate's sitting there so if I need it to be fairly particular that's one way to know what you're looking for okay so we got that we've got this post set up move it over here so we don't trip on it hopefully and I'll set the second post up we were in the third hole down just going to get things so they're close for us okay I think we're ready to heave that baby up in there your post is too short oh yes I flipped it the wrong way thanks somebody's going to comment on that oh I see you changed your post I was screaming at the screen thank you it's just cuz it is heavy so I don't want don't want anybody to hurt themselves let's roll it like yep oh yeah no problem that's probably good and actually that's that's pretty decent where it's hanging even for uh side to side I'll probably have to adjust it over a little bit but let me go and try and see if uh I can just ratchet it up that way these probably aren't the best ones to use for this cuz they have a quick release that works except that I think both straps are exactly where the Plate's going to sit for the pipe for the Post oh no of course oh of course it is okay well that's easy enough I'll uh I'll release one at a time and just slide them over cuz yeah this is going to be it's going to be so close just better off to have them out of the way so I'm going to slide those straps over but that did work well to lift them and hold it uh yeah so if I slide this this way I think it's going to stay there those should be out of the way now so we'll just get the post uh posts underneath there close and then I can check them for Plum and everything after that quite Gusty today the wind it's better than the rain we've been having I mean we need rain last year it was so dry we had forest fires everywhere but last couple weeks have been kind of extreme okay so we're in the ballpark there do the same thing with this one oh oh I went the fourth hole believe me when I tell you when you're working with these don't ever forget about those plates not being secure because you don't want them falling on your head and don't ask me how I know okay so I've just kind of got them finger snug up there oops so that I can move things around a little bit and I'll just uh check them for Plum like I said I kind of had a position at the floor that I kind of would like these to stay so I'm pretty good so that one's pretty nice oop oops wrong way that's deadly okay so so uh now I can take a wrench now I'll just snug those up once uh once we get the subfloor and that on a little bit of weight on this I'll come down and readjust get everything how I want it but for now I just we know that we put that straight piece across there so we should be pretty flat I just want to kind of take up I don't want to lift them off the wall over there just kind of get some weight off them then I'm going to take these I don't know what they are inch and 3/4 Jr what are they grk screws but they're basically a structural screw they don't come with the pole you could use a leg bolt I like these cuz you usually don't have to pre-drill so that'll keep that plate for moving up there my plate Twisted a little bit okay so that will keep those plates from uh slipping and sliding the ones on the floor I will fasten to the concrete as well we don't have INF floor heat tubing or anything like that uh so I don't have to worry about that but if you do have inflor heat be cautious of of that uh if you had infloor heat I would probably just use some peel adhesive and stick them to the floor once that they won't go anywhere but I just don't have my drill right now but I will put a couple anchors in there just some uh looks like they're about I don't know they might be quarter in holes so I'll use some quarter inch hammer and anchors and bolt those plates to the floor as well so like I said this this works well and is a little bit cheaper than doing the you know the engineered beams and stuff at each end like I had mentioned before and this is going to be a wall anyways so these posts will be in the wall and nobody know any difference uh this is going to be a plumbing wall so it's nice and thick and it'll hide those posts you can see that I'm supporting this is the very first cut off joist at this end this is a full one this is the very first cut off joist I'm supporting all the other cut off joists plus I'm supporting this joist that's full length where the top of the stairs will be attached to and it'll just give it take a little bit of Bounce out of the stairs so the stairs when they're in here are going to be coming down here back in that area so now that's all all that's left to do is I've got to go up and basically toenail that that very first um Rim board that I put on toenail it down into the beam and uh maybe I'll even throw the odd nail uh through this flange on the joist into the beam too and that'll just keep it from being able to kick out and when I do that I'll just flush this this side of the beam up with everything in the stairwell side so and then I'll recheck my uh Plum of my poles it's actually pretty flush now but I probably will have to adjust my Plum just a little bit so I think that's that's the main gist of everything that I want to show you there uh the floor joist system is just about complete I've got a little bit more blocking to do here and there and uh some final little touches and then we're going to do the sheathing and there'll be a video for that so uh keep watching for it this cabin build we're going to have a ton of videos you're not going to want to miss any of them so again click the thumbs up subscribe to our Channel and uh share with all your friends on Facebookwhat was the point I was getting to uh oh yes hi it's Shannon here from host improvements.com and in the previous video you seen me install these floor joist on the cabin build and in today's video I want to show you how to deal with the stairwell opening how to finish framing that for the floor joist so I've got a few things prepped up here I've built the outer section that's just solely sitting on the basement wall so this Inside Edge is just flush with the inside of the basement wall and obviously this is flush with the outside uh this area here obviously before you sheet the floor it's going to have to be insulated because you're not going to be able to get into it again because it's all closed up so make sure you don't forget to insulate areas like that before you put your sheeting down uh just to talk about a few things so how did I determine my opening size well most times if you're working off a plan that's all going to be predetermined for you so in my case uh I had that all figured out on my drawing and uh just simply took some measurements got everything uh measured off and cut to what I needed and I already installed those floor joists that are cut short as you can see including the blocking along the beam and everything so so in today's video I'm going to show you how to install that Rim piece that you see laying on top to the end of those cut joist and then uh we can't just leave that whole thing in this case like that we need to support that uh those floor joists that are hanging off the beam we need to support it with another beam and post underneath now I like this system when the stairwell is perpendicular with the uh floor joist uh as opposed to some more expensive systems where you've actually got to replace this floor joist with a uh uh like a engineered beam right from the steel beam in the house over to the edge and as well this one would have to be an engineered beam as well instead of just a regular floor joist with this system here because I'm already going to have a wall anyways along the stair case uh in the basement there's no reason that I can't have a a beam and post supporting those floor joist hidden in that wall and it's it just saves all it probably saves uh probably a couple thousand dollar actually on this particular setup so you still need a beam and everything to support that but you just have a little less materials and engineered products than uh doing it the other way so I think uh that's about it for the intro we'll get right into this okay so I'm down working off a a scaffold so I can be down a decent level here to to do this so this is the plate so this is actually going to go on like that onto the end here I've already got it pre-marked out here and all I all I had to do to figure out those marks is just basically measure what my layout is which is 16 on 16 in on Center cuz this here is going to go right against this last ful length uh joist so it's just continue uh a continuation of my 16inch centers so that's marked out I added a block on both ends on the bottom side of the two end joist just so when I flip this down it can sit on there and I don't have to actually hold that thing up and balance and nail and everything else it it will basically sit there while I work so basically the nailing pattern is just going to be I'll be nailing through this into these ends so I'm just just going to be putting One Nail in each one uh that's really all you need because this whole end is going to be then supported by the beam underneath so this is really just lipstick on a pig it's just finishing this opening and uh basically keeping the spacing of these joist so uh so there's nothing real structural about this this beam here or this piece here and this is the same material as I used on the whole rest of the outside uh floor system and you will would have seen that in the previous video as long as you watched it go check it out while I'm on that topic click the thumbs up subscribe to the channel I know you like what you see you keep coming back oops now I just won't put it backwards got me distracted so I can set that down on my blocks and it'll basically sit there and I'm using a 3 and 1/2 in uh ring shank nails so what I'm going to do is I'm going to flush these to the bottom of this piece so I'll just lift that up to my mark oops and turn the nailer on here we go so I'm just going to continue on all the way along there nailing each one and then on these these ends I don't think I mentioned that actually okay so these are the floor joist that we're using so these are a tji this is the abbreviation for them uh to be quite honest I don't even know what that stands for so common uh term though for in construction for this type of joist so we basically have an OSB web and then uh the top and bottom cords in this case they're solid lumber on on these ones but sometimes they'll even be engineered uh Lumber like this uh but these ones are solid wood prefer the solid wood ones uh this this is a 9 and 1/2 in TGI tji uh they come in different heights so depending on your span whatever they'll be specked differently what was the point I was getting to uh oh yes so you notice we have a void here right on these particular ones this is a this is 1 in difference from the face here to there so what I what I did in the very two end tjis that went full length is I needed to fill in that void and I just simply used two layers a/2 in plywood to to create a flat surface here so that'll that'll do a couple things that'll help with drywalling cuz we can just drywall right across it or whatever but it also gives me a nice surface here to nail through because I'm going to nail through that web into the end of these at both ends again remember none of this is structural if it was structural we'd be doing joist hangers and everything which you still could do if you wanted to but uh it's really not needed in this case since this is going to be supported by a beam from the bottom anyways sliver uh so I had a mark over here which is this face of of this uh joist and I know it's sitting down on my block down here so I can uh put a few nails through the end of it and that's just to keep keep it from twisting or anything hey they all even hit the wood perfect okay same thing on this side I've got a Mark here already and I'm just going to fire through this back side of the web through that thickened part that I added on this side and into the into the rim that one felt like it missed but it didn't Okay so we've got that all nice and solid but there'll be some bounce out here right because this still isn't structurally strong enough hanging off that that beam that's over there or whatever it is 8 ft away where those blocks are so that's why we need to now go in the basement and support that with a proper uh beam and uh telepost that'll be our next step oh man those are in there those ring shank nails hold don't want to knock my new saw off oops okay okay so now we're down in the basement uh this is you can obviously see the stairwell opening here this is where the beam's going to go it's going to sit right underneath here flush to this inside and back to wherever it ends up here these each one of these pieces is inch and 3/4 I believe yeah so will be uh 3 and 1 half in thick total when it's when it's built I want to catch this joist here with the end of the beam and it doesn't have to catch this one I think it ends up just catching this last short one somewhere here I forget just where it stops I know I cut it at 10 ft now you might be wondering what the straps are about so I was just doing some redneck engineering thinking about this and uh I thought just trying to figure out how I can hold that beam up there till I get my post all in place and everything so we just hung some ratchet straps one at each end so we should be able to stick the beam through this so it'll hang off of there on both ends I can kind of suck it up pretty pretty close I think with the ratchet straps as well so we'll see it might be a fail but it'll hold it up there and keep it from falling on our heads anyways now I had mentioned that uh there's going to be telepost under here so I've got a mark on the floor pretty much where I want them hopefully to be and part of that is that underneath the concrete floor there's a there's a concrete footing an 8 in thick footing that's uh I think they were 30 in by 30 in so there's extra reinforcement there so I mean we've got some play right to left here but uh I pretty much need to be centered this way uh so that I end up in the wall where I want it to be but I do have a little bit of Play This Way couple inches one way or the other isn't going to make a huge difference so to start out with I'm going to nail this LVL together so this is uh basically an engineered laminated beam uh this particular one's made out of plywood you can get them made out of like uh almost like OSB it's not quite the same but it's similar uh but this one's plywood it's going to be two PES I already said they're inch and 3/4 each and uh this load this beam is going to be just top loaded so really we we only need to nail uh on this height of beam uh four Nails every 12 in on one side but I I'm probably going to I am going to nail it on both sides it's just force a habit but uh when you're dealing with these types of beams there's no Crown to them or anything so you don't need to look for a crown uh just basically flush them up and uh uh on the on the ends and the bottom and uh nail it off so so I'm going to start by doing that so I've got uh what are those 3 and a/4 in Nails in my nailer this is going to be a total of 3 and 1/2 in so they shouldn't poke through the other side if I was nailing a just normal one by type boards together and it was only 3 inches thick these nails would poke through the other side but if you nail them at a bit of an angle then uh usually they won't come through the other side so just a little little Pro tip there for you in this case I can just nail straight in not have to worry so we look pretty good there a lot of nail guns will not nail these nails flush into this type of material this this Milwaukee is incredible okay so I don't think I mentioned I mentioned the thickness but the uh total height this is 9 and2 so it's actually the same uh same height as our floor joist and again these these can come in all different uh Heights maybe maybe what I'll do I'll preet up my telepost get them set up roughly to height and then that way uh it's less time that the beam has to hang in that in those straps there so that is uh 93 and we'll call it 38 that's about a quarter so we need to be in that range minus our 9 and2 so easiest way to do something like this uh without hurting your brain doing math I know to the top of this is going to be about 93 and 38 or a quar I just line my tape up and read what it is down here and that's that's what I need for my post height so we're looking for about 83 and 1 half would get us close and then I can adjust it from there okay so these posts uh what was specked I think was speced for 3,000 lb posts these posts are like 8,000 lb so I've got more than enough post more than enough strength I should say so these uh these posts are adjustable so all the parts are what you see here okay so you've got a plate plate for the top plate for the bottom uh sorry I should rephrase that one plate for the bottom of the post and the the top plate actually goes on the underside of the beam that you're mounting okay uh this pin fits in these holes this is what makes the post adjustable so you can get it close to what you need put this pin through the hole it slides down and then this is your adjustable part of this this uh telepost so this would sit in in the top of the post and this is on the underside of your your beam or whatever you're supporting so it sit like that there's a hole in there and the pin on the top of here needs to needs to go in there okay now something else if you look on these plates there's these three little Nubs um I always like to put those up against the wood so that when you get some pressure on there those kind of sink in there and it basically holds it in place but we will be installing bolts as well but uh just good practice to put those up uh on the concrete you can't really can't really put them up so then they go inside the post which is honestly what they're really for but just about everybody does it the other way so so yeah so the bottom one those are in the post and that just gives the post a little bit of something to come up against if it happens to get smacked or whatever okay uh so anybody remember that number cuz I don't 93 and 5/8 I think or 38 was our total uh 83 and a half so we've got we've got to kind of include these thicknesses as well so we need about another 6 in for that so 83 and2 2 three four five six we're somewhere in that range okay so these posts are made to do a lot of different heights so now for the height we need I've pulled it out far enough that there's no more holes right but all you have to do is flip the around now and that that basically gives you what you need one two three four so somewhere in that range we'll try we'll sneak up to this hole I think that'll still work come on in there okay and on that pin so that pin that goes through there those holes there's these little indents those need to go down and they hook in the top of the lower part of the pipe and that's so that once there's weight on there that pin can't slide one way or the other so I think at that position we're going to be I think we're going to be all right I'll just give a little quick check here yeah we were looking for about 85 and a half so we should be really close right there sorry I keep dropping that plate it's probably loud so I'll get these posts just laid close for now so remember I had the crosshairs here on the floor for my post location so with that hole in the middle I can actually line that up if I want to get some marks out on the outside just to give me a better idea once I'm moving that post around cuz I'm not going to see my crosshairs once that Plate's sitting there so if I need it to be fairly particular that's one way to know what you're looking for okay so we got that we've got this post set up move it over here so we don't trip on it hopefully and I'll set the second post up we were in the third hole down just going to get things so they're close for us okay I think we're ready to heave that baby up in there your post is too short oh yes I flipped it the wrong way thanks somebody's going to comment on that oh I see you changed your post I was screaming at the screen thank you it's just cuz it is heavy so I don't want don't want anybody to hurt themselves let's roll it like yep oh yeah no problem that's probably good and actually that's that's pretty decent where it's hanging even for uh side to side I'll probably have to adjust it over a little bit but let me go and try and see if uh I can just ratchet it up that way these probably aren't the best ones to use for this cuz they have a quick release that works except that I think both straps are exactly where the Plate's going to sit for the pipe for the Post oh no of course oh of course it is okay well that's easy enough I'll uh I'll release one at a time and just slide them over cuz yeah this is going to be it's going to be so close just better off to have them out of the way so I'm going to slide those straps over but that did work well to lift them and hold it uh yeah so if I slide this this way I think it's going to stay there those should be out of the way now so we'll just get the post uh posts underneath there close and then I can check them for Plum and everything after that quite Gusty today the wind it's better than the rain we've been having I mean we need rain last year it was so dry we had forest fires everywhere but last couple weeks have been kind of extreme okay so we're in the ballpark there do the same thing with this one oh oh I went the fourth hole believe me when I tell you when you're working with these don't ever forget about those plates not being secure because you don't want them falling on your head and don't ask me how I know okay so I've just kind of got them finger snug up there oops so that I can move things around a little bit and I'll just uh check them for Plum like I said I kind of had a position at the floor that I kind of would like these to stay so I'm pretty good so that one's pretty nice oop oops wrong way that's deadly okay so so uh now I can take a wrench now I'll just snug those up once uh once we get the subfloor and that on a little bit of weight on this I'll come down and readjust get everything how I want it but for now I just we know that we put that straight piece across there so we should be pretty flat I just want to kind of take up I don't want to lift them off the wall over there just kind of get some weight off them then I'm going to take these I don't know what they are inch and 3/4 Jr what are they grk screws but they're basically a structural screw they don't come with the pole you could use a leg bolt I like these cuz you usually don't have to pre-drill so that'll keep that plate for moving up there my plate Twisted a little bit okay so that will keep those plates from uh slipping and sliding the ones on the floor I will fasten to the concrete as well we don't have INF floor heat tubing or anything like that uh so I don't have to worry about that but if you do have inflor heat be cautious of of that uh if you had infloor heat I would probably just use some peel adhesive and stick them to the floor once that they won't go anywhere but I just don't have my drill right now but I will put a couple anchors in there just some uh looks like they're about I don't know they might be quarter in holes so I'll use some quarter inch hammer and anchors and bolt those plates to the floor as well so like I said this this works well and is a little bit cheaper than doing the you know the engineered beams and stuff at each end like I had mentioned before and this is going to be a wall anyways so these posts will be in the wall and nobody know any difference uh this is going to be a plumbing wall so it's nice and thick and it'll hide those posts you can see that I'm supporting this is the very first cut off joist at this end this is a full one this is the very first cut off joist I'm supporting all the other cut off joists plus I'm supporting this joist that's full length where the top of the stairs will be attached to and it'll just give it take a little bit of Bounce out of the stairs so the stairs when they're in here are going to be coming down here back in that area so now that's all all that's left to do is I've got to go up and basically toenail that that very first um Rim board that I put on toenail it down into the beam and uh maybe I'll even throw the odd nail uh through this flange on the joist into the beam too and that'll just keep it from being able to kick out and when I do that I'll just flush this this side of the beam up with everything in the stairwell side so and then I'll recheck my uh Plum of my poles it's actually pretty flush now but I probably will have to adjust my Plum just a little bit so I think that's that's the main gist of everything that I want to show you there uh the floor joist system is just about complete I've got a little bit more blocking to do here and there and uh some final little touches and then we're going to do the sheathing and there'll be a video for that so uh keep watching for it this cabin build we're going to have a ton of videos you're not going to want to miss any of them so again click the thumbs up subscribe to our Channel and uh share with all your friends on Facebook\n"