**The Art of Removing Dents from Your Car: A Step-by-Step Guide**

In this article, we will take you through the process of removing dents from your car using common hand tools. Our guide will cover the entire process, from preparing the area to applying the final polish.

**Preparing for the Process: Choosing the Right Compound**

We are going to start with the auto magic pc1 which is like a compound and you don't need a lot just get a little bit on your polishing pad like that and we'll start with that amount so you understand what we're doing. Compound is a very fine abrasive that's removing those wet sanding scratches so you can't see them anymore. So when compounding you want to use a medium heavy pressure and you want to buff in tight circles to attack the scratches on the panel in every direction work your way down the door and make sure you overlap your circles so you don't miss buffing the compound into any spots on the panel.

**The Compound Step**

Doing this by hand takes a lot of time in elbow grease trust me when i say invest in a da polisher and you could thank me later. Then after you're done buffing the compound use a clean microfiber towel and buff away all that compound residue off the panel oh man i'm exhausted already but look it's worth the effort this looks absolutely amazing we're not even done yet this is our first step of three different steps the compound step looks great it's like a semi-gloss right now definitely a lot more shine than with the 5000 grit of course and it's really cutting down those scratches.

**The Polishing Step**

The next step is the polishing step should give us a pretty good shine now with the pc2 flip your buffing pad over to the clean side and add the polish to that side then same thing here buff the entire door with a medium heavy pressure using tight circles. It just takes a lot of time and elbow grease and finally for our last step add the pc3 to a new buffing pad and use medium pressure and buff in tight circles now when you're done with this if you don't have the shine you want you might have to start over with the pc1 and then use pc2 and pc3 again to cut into that clear coat even more and remove even more scratches but this is coming out pretty good okay after our super fine final polish check out this finish this came out amazing especially for doing this in your driveway is it perfect no but this is way better than what we started with we had dents we had key marks we had scratches all over this panel and now it looks amazing i mean take a look at that shine that's not too shabby for a hand compound and polish.

**Adding the Final Touches: Plastic Trim**

And then can't forget to add our plastic trim and I got new trim to complete the look and then all you have to do is tap the trim into the door like that and that looks awesome but do i have a surprise for you and that's why I wanted to get the dents removed and check it out what do you guys think of the new livery I think it came out awesome soapy water racers we have a race coming up so I had to get the car wrapped you're supposed to wait about two weeks before you wrap over paint that you just put down but again race is coming up shortly so I had to get it done and it looks so good there's no dents here which will make this look rough and indented and the wrap came out perfect and the door panel just looks amazing this wrap looks so good so there you go that's everything you guys need to know on how to properly remove dents from your car using common hand tools as always I hope this video was helpful if it was remember to give it a thumbs up and if you're not a subscriber definitely consider hitting that subscribe button for more money-saving DIY videos like this and as always all the tools and products I used in this video will be linked down in the description so you guys could easily find them

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enHey guys ChrisFix here and today I'm going to show you how to remove dents from your car! Now I have no clue what the previous owner did to get all these dents, but that's okay because it gives me the opportunity to show you guys how to remove dents and make this perfectly smoothso you would never even know there are any dents here in the first place. Now there are two main methods to remove dents from your car... First is a paintless dent removal kit (PDR) like this and if you have shallow non-sharp dents this kit can help remove those or make them less visible without having to spray paint your carso what you do is add some hot glue to  the puller tab from the kitand place that in the dent then you take the slide hammer attachment and pull the dent outwards... This is not as easy as it looks and it takes a lot of practiceand then if you pull this dent out too far like I just did, you're able to lightly tap the dent back in with a plastic coated hammer and try to make that dent even with the rest of the body panel again it's not easy to do and it  doesn't work on every dent but with practice you could get decent results now unfortunately  paintless dent removal won't work for these dents because we have some deep dents that are pretty  sharp so that metal is really bent and it'll be hard to massage that so it's flat again also  you can see all these dents have damage to the paintwork in them so even if we did get the dents  out we'd still have all this damage here so we'd have to paint the car anyway so since we can't  use paintless dent removal to remove these dents the other common method to remove dents is to use  a pro grade body filler and with this there are three simple steps to remove these dents first you  prep the dents by sanding them down to bare metal then you fill the dents with the pro grade body  filler and finally you sand it down so it's smooth and even with the rest of the panel now that  leaves you with a smooth but unfinished surface so you'd have to either take it to a paint guy  or you could paint it yourself at home and that's exactly what we're gonna do i'm gonna show you how  to paint it and make it look absolutely amazing so let's get started and now here's everything  you're gonna need to repair the dents in your car as usual i like to use common hand tools and easy  to find products that give you great results so you could get this job done at home yourself no  problem at all so first we're gonna need our pro grade body filler and pro grade glazing putty  these are professional grade products so they're going to give you amazing results if you use them  properly and i'm going to teach you how to use them properly then we need some sandpaper all the  way from 80 grit up to 5000 grit then we have our spreaders we have our sanding block tack cloth we  have our tape and isopropyl alcohol now i did say we are going to spray paint at home and i wasn't  kidding we're using spray cans but we're going to get amazing results i can't wait to show you  so we need our primer our base coat which is our color coat and this is color coded to our car i'll  show you how to find that on your car and then we have our automotive 2k clear coat after this dries  we're gonna wet sand and then compound and polish to get that amazing glossy finish that looks like  the rest of the car now safety is very important so make sure you're wearing at least an n95 dust  mask when you're sanding and make sure you get your safety glasses on and then when you're spray  painting it's very important to use a full face respirator with organic filters so you're not  breathing any of that spray paint in and i do want to thank evercoat very much for supporting this  video and sending me out their body filler and their glazing putty that way i could teach you  guys how to properly fix dents in your vehicle now enough talk let's go grab our dust mask and let's  get started with step number one preparing the dents so we could add our filler now since we have  a bunch of dents right here and we have a nice size dent back there we're going to end up spray  painting this entire door panel so if you have any plastic trim like this piece right here you want  to remove it so use a plastic trim removal tool and pry the trim out being careful not to damage  the door and as you remove this trim you might break the plastic clips that hold it in but don't  worry they're inexpensive and easy to replace and it's that easy to remove door trim like this now  i did break a couple of these plastic clips it's bound to happen they're old they're brittle and  the new ones will make the trim fit even tighter to the door than the old factory worn out ones  all right so with our trim removed now we're going to go and sand down all these dents to  bare metal it's important we get down to bare metal because our body filler adheres best to  bare metal so we're going to sand this down but before we do that it's very important that we  clean the surface because there's oils and dirt and stuff on this paint surface and we don't want  to rub that into our metal so grab a degreaser like soapy water and spray down the entire panel  so we could clean it off soapy water is just a teaspoon of dish soap and the rest water and it  works great at removing dirt and it also removes waxes and oils that way we won't push them into  the dents we're working on so with our panel nice and clean now we want to use 80 grit sandpaper and  sand down all these dents and get them to bare metal now we want to keep our sanding localized  to our dents we don't want to sand out this whole area because that just creates a lot more work so  to help you visualize where the dents are and how far out we're sanding from those dents i'm going  to circle each of them and i can see there's a little bit of waviness in this paint up here  that i want to try to sand smooth so i'm going to circle this area as well now these circles  are here for guides i'm not saying you can't sand outside the circle it's going to happen just try  not to focus outside the circle focus inside the circle and now we have one last dent on this door  panel right under the handle here now i know you guys know what a dent is but it's not as simple as  it might seem so obviously the dent is that deep indentation right there but the metal around it is  also indented it's not flush against the rest of the body if i take one of these stripe dent boards  and you take a look at the reflection you'll get a true sense of how wide the dent actually is so i'm  going to mark the outside edge of this dent just to show you guys even though the dent looks small  and tight the metal around it is also bent inward so it's much bigger than you think so inside that  circle we definitely need to get it to bare metal so our filler could stick but also around  it about an inch or two around it we want to have to bare metal so the filler could stick there too  and when we sand it we can get it even with the rest of the body panel and real quick i'm also  going to circle this dent just like the others so now that we know where the entire dent is and we  have our area circled so we stay within that area now we're ready to sand it down with our 80 grit  sandpaper now when using your sandpaper you don't want to just use your fingers like this because  that'll create hot spots where your fingers are that's where most of the sanding will be so what  i like to do is i like to grab a kitchen sponge and wrap my sandpaper around the kitchen sponge  so now this has some give to it it distributes that force over the sandpaper a little bit better  and you won't get any hot spots when you sand so now we want to focus on this area and then work  our way out and sand this whole thing so with your dust mask on sand the dent to bare metal and the  first time you do this it's definitely going to be weird to sand the paint on your car but you're  going to have to trust the process and not worry about it now if you notice that the sandpaper is  getting all gummed up just flick it a couple of times and you can see the dust comes right off  removing this dust is gonna unclog that sandpaper so it works better and makes it easier for you  so finish sanding the dent down to bare metal and this shiny metal right here is bare metal but you  can still see we have paint inside the dent that we need to get out so now you can use your finger  and create a hot spot and sand deep into that dent to get all the paint out it's very important you  get this dent down to bare metal because body filler bonds best to bare metal beautiful now  after you're done sanding this is exactly what it should look like you can see inside our dent  there is no paint at all it is down to bare metal and then about an inch or so outside of our dent  we have bare metal as well now we also sanded into the surrounding paintwork not a lot but a little  bit so that we could feather that sanding out and you can see the different layers of paint you can  see the primer they put down from the factory the base coat which is the color coat and our clear  coat you want to have a nice smooth transition if you close your eyes you can't even feel that  there's anything there you don't want anything that you could grab your fingernail on and that's  nice and smooth and that's exactly what you want so that's one dent done now let's go get the other  dents sanded down now with the other dents you want to follow the same exact process making sure  you sand each one down to bare metal and remove all the paint in the deep part of the dent the  80 grit sandpaper works pretty quickly but if you have an electric sander definitely consider using  it because it'll make this process so much quicker but as usual i want to show you guys you could get  this done by hand no problem all right so all our dents are sanded down to bare metal and there's no  more paint in them also this spot right up here is sanded so that it's smooth because we had a  little wave in the paint so we might as well make it perfect while we're sanding everything down  now we can finish up the first step by getting some isopropyl alcohol on a rag and wipe down the  whole panel to remove all the dust that we just created alright so with all the dents sanded down  to bare metal and i cleaned it off with alcohol i also did the same thing to the rear dents as well  all of these have been cleaned up now we need to let that alcohol flash off it needs to evaporate  for about 10-15 minutes and in the meantime let me show you how to mix your body filler  now we're using evercoat body shop pro grade body filler and this stuff is super easy to  work with so under the cap you can see here we have our hardener which we have to mix in with  our filler i'll show you how to do that in a second but my favorite thing about this entire  kit is this sheet right here this makes your life so much easier every can of filler comes with the  sheet and makes it impossible to mess up mixing your filler and your hardener check this out so  first what i suggest you do is grab some tape and tape down your sheet to a piece of cardboard or  some flat surface that way it's easier to mix on next we need to pop the lid open with a flathead  screwdriver and i always like to mix the filler to make sure it has a uniform consistency throughout  and don't worry this easily wipes right off a metal with a towel now after we mix up the filler  what we're gonna do is figure out how much filler we're gonna need so this two inch circle this four  inch circle or this six inch circle and i prefer to start with the smaller amounts just because  you can always add more filler later but if you fill this up and you don't use all that filler  it's just a waste so what we're gonna do is we're gonna use this four inch circle and this should  be enough to do all the dents on both doors so pour out the filler that way it fills the circle  just like that good so after you fill that four inch circle the next thing you're gonna do is  grab your cream hardener and you wanna knead the hardener sometimes this stuff sits on a shelf for  a little bit and it might separate a little and just to make sure it's consistent and we get good  results mix up that hardener now you just squeeze out a bead of hardener to cover this four inch  line like that and that's perfect and now you can see why i really like this sheet it's such a great  idea it guarantees that you get the correct amount of filler and hardener so that ratio is accurate  that way this hardens properly and we get a great result now you want to grab your spreader and  we're going to mix these two together now it's important that you don't stir with the spreader  you want to make sure that you're folding if you stir you're going to introduce air bubbles and  then when you go add this to the car it's going to create pinholes from those air bubbles and that's  going to give you a bad result so the technique is to fold the hardener into the filler and let  me show you how to fold all you do is scoop up the mixture like this and then spread it out scoop it  up and then spread it out and then you want to repeat this process until you can no longer see  any blue hardener in that filler it has to all get mixed in and be one color and as you spread it out  you can actually see the air trapped in the filler come right out which is good so this should take  you a maximum of 30 seconds to get this fully mixed like this so that's perfect we don't have  any more blue in our filler it is completely mixed in and we also spread it out nice and thin so that  it doesn't heat up right now this is undergoing an exothermic reaction so it's heating up and the  hotter it gets the quicker it hardens if it's 70 degrees fahrenheit out we have about five  minutes of work time before this hardens so not a ton of time so with that said let's take this  and fill our dents alright so what we want to do first is start with a small amount of filler on  our spreader and wet the bare metal surface so get your spreader and really press hard and force that  filler into the dent and surrounding bare metal the filler has resin in it and we want that resin  to wet the bare metal and that's going to help provide better adhesion for the layers of filler  we put on top of it and then after you wet the surface like that now we can add our first layer  and push it deep into the dent forcing any air out and also keep the layer thin that way we don't get  any air bubbles which leads to pinholes now it looks like we just need one more thin layer to  build this up slightly higher than the surrounding panel perfect so this is a great example we did a  good job at keeping the filler within the sanded area it's not all over the place it's not down  here outside on the paint because if it is it's going to take a lot of work to sand that all down  so by keeping it within here we're doing a lot less work when we have to sand it down we also  didn't put globs of filler on here there isn't a mountain of filler it's just a little bit higher  than the surrounding body work again that's going to make it easier to sand down and get smooth and  even with the bodywork once this dries and this will be dry and sandable in 15 minutes so let's  quickly get the other dents done so wet the bare metal down by pushing a thin layer of filler onto  the dent really hard then build up the layers of filler so it's higher than the surrounding panel  same thing for the other dents wet the surface like so and then add more filler and smooth it out  so it's slightly higher than the surrounding panel and on that wavy spot up here i'm just going to  put a thin coat of filler since it really isn't a dent okay so not bad all the dents are completely  filled we do have a little bit of a low spot right here probably could add a little more filler to  get that higher but not a big deal because after we sand this down we're gonna add our glazing  putty and our glazing putty is designed to fill low spots and pinholes so that came out perfect  our spot right here under the handle came out perfect and off camera i did the rear door panel  and all those dents are completely filled now just to give you an idea here is how much filler  we have left there is plenty of filler left and we use that four inch circle and i did the entire  front door and all the dents on the rear door so hopefully that gives you an idea for your project  how much filler you're gonna need you really don't need that much so now what we need to do is let  this sit for about 15 minutes that way it cures and dries and then we could go and sand it down  now as we let that dry i have a quick tip on how to keep your spreaders nice and clean because  it's hard to clean these spreaders off once that filler gets on there and the trick is to just  leave a bunch of filler on your spreader don't clean it off make sure you have a bunch clumped on  there like that and then after your filler hardens check this out grab your spreader and just crack  your spreader like this and you can see the filler comes right off in one big piece leaving behind  an undamaged nice and clean spreader all right so it's been about 15 minutes so grab your 80  grit sandpaper and we are ready to sand down all the body filler to make it flush with our panel  now when sanding your filler it's very important that you use a sanding block like this because  it's completely flat and it's solid that's going to give you the best smooth surface that's level  with the rest of the body panel if you sand it by hand you have these pressure points on your  fingers and that could create little waves or indents into the filler and as you're sanding  a little helpful tip that works really well is to sand in an x pattern that way you're sanding down  the filler in different directions which will give you a flatter more even result so that's what your  dent should look like after the 80 grit sanding now we want to move up to the 180 grit sandpaper  and with the 180 grit you want to sand down the dent but you also want to start feathering it out  so you want to sand about 6 to 12 inches outside that dent into the surrounding paintwork like this  all right now that is absolutely perfect if you close your eyes and you run your hand across this  you cannot feel in any direction that there is a dent it just feels like one smooth body panel  and that's exactly what you want now with that 180 grit you saw me standing out here as well  we feathered out the sanding so we went from this tight area and moved outwards to remove  all those 80 grit scratches we introduced so we have a smooth transition across this whole panel  don't worry we're painting the whole thing so you just want to make sure that you get rid of those  80 grit scratches with that 180 grit sandpaper so this is absolutely perfect that's exactly  what you want now let's repeat the process right here so sand down the filler with 80 grit in an  x pattern to level it out with the surrounding panel then switch to 180 grit and again feather  out that sanding into the surrounding paintwork to remove all those 80 grit scratches and smooth out  that paint and finally wipe the panel down with alcohol to remove any leftover dust okay so after  the 180 grit sandpaper you can see we feathered out that sanding pretty good now we have sandpaper  scratches all the way out here which makes a nice smooth transition now this dent here feels great  i cannot feel it this dent there is a low spot this dent just like we thought there's a low spot  same here low spot on this dent and this took no body filler this is actually completely smooth so  i guess the little waves were from the factory paint job but we smoothed that out so we won't  have an issue there so with this completely sanded with 180 grit we know where there's spots that we  need to fill now let me show you how to mix the glazing putty to get rid of these low spots and  the pinholes now our glazing putty gets mixed the same exact way we just mixed our body filler  just make sure you get a new mixing sheet this mixing sheet has all these little pieces of body  filler on it and if that gets in our glazing putty it's going to ruin the putty and ruin our finish  so out with the old and in with the new now what happens if you don't have a new mixing sheet well  you either need a two four or six inch diameter circle and either a two four or six inch line for  our hardener now funny enough our spreader is four inches long so you can make a circle with  your spreader or the back part of this cap for our filler is about four inches so what you can do is  get a piece of cardboard and trace a four inch circle for your filler like that and then draw  a four inch line for your hardener but you never want to mix your filler or your putty on here  because your hardener will soak into a cardboard surface and then you won't have the correct ratio  so a little trick is to grab a plastic ziploc bag like this and cover your cardboard with plastic  the plastic won't absorb any of the hardener and it's a nice flat mixing surface now we could go  and mix our glazing putty and what i like to do is i like to knead the glazing putty just like before  where we needed the hardener to make sure it's all mixed up and there's no separation  and then pour out the putty to fill the four inch circle and then once you have that circle filled  next let's lay down our four inch bead of hardener good and finally we could fold our  hardener into the putty just like before spend no more than 30 seconds getting this completely mixed  perfect so we don't have any more blue streaks and our putty is all mixed up we spread it out  that way it stays cool we have about five minutes of work time until this hardens so let's go fill  the low spots and the pinholes okay so when adding your first layer of glazing putty this should be  a thin layer and we want to force that putty into the filler to squeeze out any air bubbles and get  a good bond to the filler and surrounding metal then we could add some more putty to build it up  and get it higher than the surrounding area and do the same thing to the other dents push the putty  into the filler like that and then add another layer of putty over that this doesn't have to be  perfect coverage because with the putty we're just filling in low spots and pin holes in the filler  so just focus on building up enough putty over all the dents that you're working on  so with the glazing putty covering all the dents on the front door panel off camera i also did the  rear door panel now all we have to do is let this sit for 15 minutes so it could cure and harden  and then after that we'll go sand it down so it's super smooth okay so 15 minutes later we could  sand this down starting with 320 grit this time and as you sand make long strokes going past the  dent and not focusing your sanding on one specific area we don't want to create any flat spots oh man  this feels so good it's nice and smooth and you can't even tell that there was any dent here at  all this is perfect okay so now we want to do the same thing for the other dents using 320  grit sandpaper take long strokes going all the way across the putty and we just want to get this  nice and smooth now this came out perfect except for one little spot right here you can see there  is a little nick or a little air bubble that we got in there so i quickly mixed up a batch  of putty and all we want to do is fill in this little indent and just build up one more layer  good and then we can just sand this down with 320 grit that way we don't have any indents in our  body work when we go to paint and check it out we are done with the most difficult part getting our  dents nice and even with the rest of the panel and this looks absolutely perfect all the dents are  nice and flush and our panel is looking great so now what we need to do is we need to sand it down  with 320 and then 400 to get it ready for paint so let's start with 320 grit and we want to sand  down anywhere we're going to paint so in this case sand down the entire door that way the paint has a  good surface to grab onto after the 320 grit we want to sand down the panel with 400 grit which  is the final sanding before paint so make sure you get this panel looking nice and smooth and there's  no visible deep scratches because at this point if you could clearly see the scratch you're gonna  clearly see it after you paint it so make sure you smooth them out perfect and with both doors  evenly sanded down with 400 grit now we need to get rid of all this dust and a leaf blower works  great here so just blow all that dust away that way when we paint none of this dust gets kicked  up and lands on our paint which wouldn't be good now let's do one last alcohol wipe to make sure  we remove all the dust from the panel and check it out at this point all the dents are filled  and the door is perfectly smooth and ready for paint although right now it doesn't look amazing  just wait till the next step where we get paint on it and make these dents completely disappear  alright now i want to keep things realistic for you guys remember we're using spray paint cans  outdoors in my driveway don't expect perfect professional results we're going to get as  good results as possible with spray cans but if you want perfect results go to a body guy go to  a paint shop and have them spray paint it for you if you're okay with pretty good results i'm gonna  show you how to do that right now so first we're gonna be using an automotive primer and we wanna  cover all that bare metal and our filler that way it seals it off and also it gives our next coat  our base coat a good layer to adhere to so our base coat is literally the color of our car this  is 354 titan silver this is the metallic silver bmw uses so it's a paint color match and i'm  going to show you right now how to get the paint code for your car so you can get the exact color  so to find the color code in your car usually on the driver's side there are door jamb stickers  like these right here and it'll list the color code for your car now on this bmw they make it  a little bit different you have to go in the engine bay and right here on the driver's side  shock tower you can see bmw titan silver metallic that is our paint code so that's how you find the  paint code for your car so you could color match your spray paint so after that base coat goes  down finally we have our last coat the clear coat which seals everything in and gives you that nice  glossy finish now the clear coat we're using is a 2k clear coat which is a special clear coat that  has hardener built into it so if you look at the lid we have this little red cap right here  this cap goes on the bottom of the can here like that and then you would snap this in and that will  release the hardener into the paint then you'll shake this up and now we have a two-part clear  coat the benefit of a two-part clear coat is it's much more similar to a factory clear coat with the  hardness with the chemical resistance and the uv resistance so it's a lot more durable especially  for a spray can but the downside is this is very dangerous to breathe in it's very important that  you don't breathe in the isocyanates in here so it's very important that you use the correct  full face respirator that fits you properly and the correct organic filters if you use a 2k clear  coat so with just a couple of spray cans and a respirator i'm going to show you how to get the  best possible results in your driveway so let's get started so now it's very important anything  that you don't want painted you need to make sure that you cover up for example our fender  right here we don't want to get paint on it so this has to be taped up and covered and when  you're taping off parts like this chrome trim it's important that you pay attention to the details  don't just tape it off and call it a day not only do you want to make sure these tape lines are  really straight but you want to go the extra step i like to tuck the tape under the trim that way  paint can get onto the door under the trim which will make this paint job come out so much better  and taping up the car does take a long time so watch this neat little trick okay so we're almost  ready to paint now i set up this tent area because we don't want to get anything on our paintwork  as we're painting it's not ideal to paint outside but that's what we have to work with and it's  important that we don't get things landing on our paint as it's drying otherwise it's not going to  look good so this tent hopefully will do the trick now before we start painting you want to grab your  tack cloth and we're going to use this to remove any dust or pollen that might have settled on  any of the panels that are going to get painted an attack cloth is literally a tacky cloth that  leaves behind no residue so lightly wipe down the entire door panel to remove anything that might  have settled on it that way we don't spray paint over dust all right so now comes the fun part  painting we're going to start out with our primer and we're only going to prime any sections that  have filler and bare metal so anytime you paint always follow the instructions on the can because  every brand has different instructions in this case we want to put down a light first coat on any  areas with bare metal and filler that way we can seal this in and prevent corrosion a few minutes  after the first coat we could hit the spots again with a second coat and we want to feather  out that second coat more into the surrounding paint to blend it in and then finally let's lay  down our third and final coat to seal it all in good next is our base coat when spraying base  coat with a paint can it's best to start spraying off the panel like onto our garbage bag and then  smoothly go across the panel at a consistent distance and speed to lay down even coatswe want our first coat to be pretty thin don't expect it to cover the whole door in silver  and since this is a metallic paint you can hear me shaking the can every so often to get that  metallic flake to stay suspended in our can that way it comes out evenly and after a few minutes  we can add our second coat and again focus on moving smoothly and evenly across the panel  that way we can lay down another even coat and then a few minutes later we could lay down our  third and final coat and just so you have an idea i used three paint cans and i barely have enough  paint to do both doors so if i were you i'd get two cans for every panel that you're working on  okay a few minutes later we are ready for our clear coat so remember we need to take this cap  off and let's put it on the bottom to release our hardener and then you just have to give it a firm  hit like that and now the hardener is released into the can and then make sure you shake this  for a good minute or two to mix it all up and then we're ready to spray just like our base coat  we want to have smooth consistent even coats but with our clear coat we want this to go on just a  little bit thicker than our base coat this will help us get a better finish from our spray can  just make sure you don't put it on too thick and it runs and then after our first coat dries  for a few minutes we can lay down our second coat and just make sure you get full coverageand then after that second coat dries let's lay down our third and final coat  and this should be the thickest coat out of all of them not too thick that it runs but thick enough  so that you can see it's going on to make a smooth glossy surface and just like that we  are done now we just need to let this dry for a day and then we can wet sand compound and polish  all right and 24 hours later we are ready for our final step and that is to wet sand compound and  then polish and this is a very important step so we're going to start out with our wet sanding the  reason why this is so important is because we use spray cans spray paint doesn't go on very nicely  you got some good spots you got some bad spots we need to smooth it out and make it all even wanna  let me show you real quick so you can see this section right here it has a pretty good reflection  that's straight from a spray can so that's not bad that's smooth clear coat and then this up here is  all rough and this down here is all rough that's rough clear coat that's because it's from a spray  can we're gonna be able to get that rough clear coat to look shinier than that by wet sanding  and unfortunately you can see right there that's a little bit of pollen as i was working we had these  things landing all over the car luckily i had that tent up but some still happen to get on here  so this is just the reality of spray painting and working outside this is stuff you could expect  when you're doing it if you don't want palm like that take it to a paint guy and he'll be able to  do it perfect but we'll still get this to buff out really nice and look great so let me show you how  so to even out that paintwork we're gonna start wet sanding with a thousand grit and work our  way to 1 500 and then 2 000 3000 all the way up to 5000 grit which is super fine the reason why we're  going that fine is because we're doing the next steps by hand compound and polish is all going to  be done with a polishing pad by hand so after we wet sand we move on to compounding and polishing  this is our auto magic pc1 that's next that's our compound and then we move up to the pc2 that's our  polish and then finally we finish off with the pc3 this is a super fine polish to give us that really  glossy deep rich look we all expect from paintwork well know what let me show you so i already did  the back door to show you guys how good this could come out and check it out this came out  absolutely amazing so that's what you could expect from our front door so let me show you how  to wet sand compound and polish okay so grab your soapy water and let's spray down the entire panel  really get it wet so that the sandpaper is well lubricated and we're gonna start with our thousand  grit so wrap it around your sponge and then we need to wet sand the entire panel when wet sanding  make sure you sand the panel in every direction side to side and up and down then once you're  done sanding down the entire panel you wanna wipe it down with a towel to remove all that sanding  residue and now we can move up to 1500 grit so again spray down the panel with soapy water  then sand down the entire panel and then wipe it down with a towel to remove the sanding residue  we want to repeat this process with our 2000 grit sandpaper which is pretty fine then our 3000 grit  sandpaper which is really fine and finally our 5000 grit sandpaper which is super fine all right  so after we're done wet sanding we have a nice uniform haze across the entire panel it looks  almost like a matte paint job there's no gloss and there's barely any reflection it's almost like  it's uh the reflection's foggy and that's exactly what you want to see you don't see any individual  scratches at all and that means we're ready for our compound and polish now this step if you have  a d a polisher definitely use it it'll make your job so much easier and you'll probably get better  results more glossy results at least but you guys know we are doing this by hand so get your  polishing pad like this we're going to start with the auto magic pc1 which is like a compound and  you don't need a lot just get a little bit on your polishing pad like that and we'll start with that  amount so you understand what we're doing compound is a very fine abrasive that's removing those wet  sanding scratches so you can't see them anymore so when compounding you want to use a medium heavy  pressure and you want to buff in tight circles to attack the scratches on the panel in every  direction work your way down the door and make sure you overlap your circles so you don't miss  buffing the compound into any spots on the panel doing this by hand takes a lot of time in elbow  grease trust me when i say invest in a da polisher and you could thank me later then after you're  done buffing the compound use a clean microfiber towel and buff away all that compound residue  off the panel oh man i'm exhausted already but look it's worth the effort this looks absolutely  amazing we're not even done yet this is our first step of three different steps the compound step  looks great it's like a semi-gloss right now definitely a lot more shine than with the 5000  grit of course and it's really cutting down those scratches and the next step the polishing step  should give us a pretty good shine now with the pc2 flip your buffing pad over to the clean side  and add the polish to that side then same thing here buff the entire door with a medium heavy  pressure using tight circles and i think you get the idea it just takes a lot of time and  elbow grease and finally for our last step add the pc3 to a new buffing pad and use medium pressure  and buff in tight circles now when you're done with this if you don't have the shine you want  you might have to start over with the pc one and then use pc2 and pc3 again to cut into  that clear coat even more and remove even more scratches but this is coming out pretty good  okay after our super fine final polish check out this finish this came out  amazing especially for doing this in your driveway is it perfect no but this is way better than what  we started with we had dents we had key marks we had scratches all over this panel and now it looks  amazing i mean take a look at that shine that's not too shabby for a hand compound and polish  and i'm totally happy with that now we can't forget to add our plastic trim and i got new  trim to complete the look and then all you have to do is tap the trim into the door like that  and that looks awesome but do i have a surprise for you and that's why i wanted to get the dents  removed and check it out what do you guys think of the new livery i think it came out awesome soapy  water racers we have a race coming up so i had to get the car wrapped you're supposed to wait about  two weeks before you wrap over paint that you just put down but again race is coming up shortly so i  had to get it done and it looks so good there's no dents here which will make this look rough  and indented and the wrap came out perfect and the door panel just looks amazing this wrap  looks so good so there you go that's everything you guys need to know on how to properly remove  dents from your car using common hand tools as always i hope this video was helpful if it  was remember to give it a thumbs up and if you're not a subscriber definitely consider hitting that  subscribe button for more money-saving diy videos like this and as always all the tools and products  i used in this video will be linked down in the description so you guys could easily find them\n"