The printer's construction is made entirely out of aluminum, which provides a robust and durable structure that can support large prints with ease. The design features a large print volume, allowing users to create extended prints without any issues.

Upon first power-up, the printer displays a pretty responsive touchscreen interface that offers various functions such as preheat, move extrude, control fans, and more. However, before printing can commence, the user must perform calibration.

The calibration process involves heating up the print bags to 80 degrees Celsius and then utilizing the included real-touch module for auto bed leveling. This ensures that the printer compensates for the banner's high and low points, resulting in an almost perfect first layer every time. Nevertheless, this process is not without its challenges.

To initiate printing, one must install Repitch eho software and adjust printer settings as outlined in the manual. The slicer settings are also provided on the SD card that comes with the printer. Users must import these settings into their preferred slicing software to achieve optimal results.

Once all necessary steps have been taken, importing an STL file from a computer is done via the touchscreen interface. The print job can be completed by sliding in a spool of ABS filament and preheating the extruder before commencing printing. For quality verification purposes, some test prints were conducted using both ABS and PLA filaments.

One notable discovery made during experimentation was that one of the sliders had become detached from its aluminum profile, causing a significant decrease in print quality. This issue could have been prevented by thoroughly checking the attachments prior to installation. Upon adjusting the slider's positioning nuts, however, improved results were achieved during subsequent prints.

Additionally, due to the increased weight and speed of the motor above the hot ends, some printed lines appeared a bit wobbly. To mitigate this, adjustments had to be made in the slicer settings by reducing printing speeds. These modifications resulted in more consistent line widths throughout the print job.

In an effort to further test the printer's capabilities, flexible peel effects filament was inserted into the extruder and used for a phone case print. The prolonged time needed due to low speeds seemed like a drawback; nonetheless, there were no issues encountered while printing with this particular material type.

Given the results from these experiments and tests, it can be concluded that the printer is worth its $800 price tag. Key features of the device include its well-made aluminum structure, large print volume, powerful power supply, robust connectors, and convenient touch interface controls.

However, in light of the manual's lack of detailed guidance for a few specific software settings, some users may find themselves requiring additional tweaks to produce optimal results.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: ena while back I received this huge parcel which contained a little monster Tibo Delta 3d printer now I usually like to stick to rather low price the 3d printers like the data 3d printer that are used for almost all my project enclosure so far so why would I take liking to such an $800 machine you might ask well not only its large print volume of 34 by 50 centimeters which enables me to print rather big project enclosures makes it interesting but also the effect that it features a kind of Taric extruder which enables me to print with flexible filaments this is special since does our 3d printers usually feature about next Rooter that is not close enough to the hot end to play sufficient pressure to the flexible filaments without clocking the whole system so the question is whether this little monster is roughly eight hundred dollar price tag let's find out after opening the parcel and removing the first layer of foam I was greeted by a bag of documents that not only contained the packaging checklists but more importantly a proper instruction manual with well-made illustrations that is the mechanical and electrical bills a lot the overall packaging for the components was also well made and protected almost all the parts from a carrier shocks during shipping except for one acrylic glass piece that apparently broke off the power supply units now after I gathered all the components from the parcel and nicely arranged them on my workbench it was time for the assembly since the small bags which were filled with complementary components we're all labeled and assigned to a specific section of the manual building the 3d printer was super easy and only took around three to four hours so here is a quick summary of all the steps first off I modular feeds followed by a free aluminum profiles then I inserted the three sliders secure the top plates to the other side of the aluminum profiles attach these double motors to the top plates assemble three adjustable tensioners for the belts motor them to the three axis attach the printbed to the bottom part of the printer connected these sliders to the hot ends through plastic rods attached takes to the motor to the hot end through a piece of PTFE tube and secures the motor in midair by utilizing additional valves the three sliders and zip ties last but not least I attached the main control PCB which is an open-source movie board as well as the power supply to the top plates and connected all the electrical components to one another according to the manual and with that being done it was time for the first power up after a short boot sequence we can use the pretty responsive touchscreen - preheat move extrude control the fans print and much more but what we should start with is the calibration which firstly heats up the print bags up to 80 degrees Celsius and then performs an auto bed leveling by utilizing the included real touch module that means when we start a new print the printer will know where the high and low points of the banner located and thus compensates them and will always create an almost perfect first layer at least once you find you the distance between the be a touch module and pads and the g-code of your slice of software but before we can print anything we must install the repitch eho software and of the printer settings which are listed in the manual and import the slicer settings from the SD cards which are provided by the manufacturer afterwards it was just the task of importing an STL file slicing it saving a 2d SD card inserting it into the printer and sir can be file via the touchscreen now for first test I slid the spool of ABS filament onto the filament holder pushed it into the extruder preheated the hot ends and extruded a bit of the filaments afterwards I started a couple of different test prints which all were successful but the overall quality of the prints was not very overwhelming as you can see here with this bold test prints so to make sure that it was the printers fault I spoke the ABS filaments with a spool of PLA filaments and started a couple more test prints to confirm that the quality of the abs and PLA prints was pretty much the same the good thing though work was that after playing around with the machine a bit more I discovered the culprits one slider was not properly attached to the aluminum profile so I removed the top plates and the affected slider and adjusted its positioning nuts afterwards I repeated the boat prints only to find out that the quality it did improve but not to a point that would satisfy me what stood out to either while the machine was printing was that due to the fast movements and the additional weight of the motor above the hot ends some printed lines looked a bit Wiggly and imprecise so I went ahead and lowered all the speed values in the slicer settings and printed the boats one last time the result was once again not perfect but it certainly showcased that the printer does have potential of creating good prints when the settings are all properly adjusted and if you want to increase the printing speeds during print you can always do so by utilizing the touchscreen and speaking of slow prints as a last test I inserted flexible peel effects filament into the extruder and started a phone case print now due to the required slow speeds the complete print took around six hours but on the other hand there were no problems like clocking while using this flexible filament and the result was also not how fast so after all these prints and tests do I think the printer is worth the $800 well kind of coming from a mechanical and electrical side of view the printer woods well made aluminum structure large print volume awesome clothes power supply robust connectors super handy auto level bat feature and direct extruder definitely make it worth the money but on the other hand the given slicer settings from the manufacturer were said too fast and a couple of software settings are simply not explained in the manual like for example that you should not increase the extrude speed proportional to the move speeds since there will certainly ruin your prints so all in all it is still just the kids that you need to adjust to create ease and prints it is not a product that works perfectly right out of the box I hope you enjoyed watching this review as always don't forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next timea while back I received this huge parcel which contained a little monster Tibo Delta 3d printer now I usually like to stick to rather low price the 3d printers like the data 3d printer that are used for almost all my project enclosure so far so why would I take liking to such an $800 machine you might ask well not only its large print volume of 34 by 50 centimeters which enables me to print rather big project enclosures makes it interesting but also the effect that it features a kind of Taric extruder which enables me to print with flexible filaments this is special since does our 3d printers usually feature about next Rooter that is not close enough to the hot end to play sufficient pressure to the flexible filaments without clocking the whole system so the question is whether this little monster is roughly eight hundred dollar price tag let's find out after opening the parcel and removing the first layer of foam I was greeted by a bag of documents that not only contained the packaging checklists but more importantly a proper instruction manual with well-made illustrations that is the mechanical and electrical bills a lot the overall packaging for the components was also well made and protected almost all the parts from a carrier shocks during shipping except for one acrylic glass piece that apparently broke off the power supply units now after I gathered all the components from the parcel and nicely arranged them on my workbench it was time for the assembly since the small bags which were filled with complementary components we're all labeled and assigned to a specific section of the manual building the 3d printer was super easy and only took around three to four hours so here is a quick summary of all the steps first off I modular feeds followed by a free aluminum profiles then I inserted the three sliders secure the top plates to the other side of the aluminum profiles attach these double motors to the top plates assemble three adjustable tensioners for the belts motor them to the three axis attach the printbed to the bottom part of the printer connected these sliders to the hot ends through plastic rods attached takes to the motor to the hot end through a piece of PTFE tube and secures the motor in midair by utilizing additional valves the three sliders and zip ties last but not least I attached the main control PCB which is an open-source movie board as well as the power supply to the top plates and connected all the electrical components to one another according to the manual and with that being done it was time for the first power up after a short boot sequence we can use the pretty responsive touchscreen - preheat move extrude control the fans print and much more but what we should start with is the calibration which firstly heats up the print bags up to 80 degrees Celsius and then performs an auto bed leveling by utilizing the included real touch module that means when we start a new print the printer will know where the high and low points of the banner located and thus compensates them and will always create an almost perfect first layer at least once you find you the distance between the be a touch module and pads and the g-code of your slice of software but before we can print anything we must install the repitch eho software and of the printer settings which are listed in the manual and import the slicer settings from the SD cards which are provided by the manufacturer afterwards it was just the task of importing an STL file slicing it saving a 2d SD card inserting it into the printer and sir can be file via the touchscreen now for first test I slid the spool of ABS filament onto the filament holder pushed it into the extruder preheated the hot ends and extruded a bit of the filaments afterwards I started a couple of different test prints which all were successful but the overall quality of the prints was not very overwhelming as you can see here with this bold test prints so to make sure that it was the printers fault I spoke the ABS filaments with a spool of PLA filaments and started a couple more test prints to confirm that the quality of the abs and PLA prints was pretty much the same the good thing though work was that after playing around with the machine a bit more I discovered the culprits one slider was not properly attached to the aluminum profile so I removed the top plates and the affected slider and adjusted its positioning nuts afterwards I repeated the boat prints only to find out that the quality it did improve but not to a point that would satisfy me what stood out to either while the machine was printing was that due to the fast movements and the additional weight of the motor above the hot ends some printed lines looked a bit Wiggly and imprecise so I went ahead and lowered all the speed values in the slicer settings and printed the boats one last time the result was once again not perfect but it certainly showcased that the printer does have potential of creating good prints when the settings are all properly adjusted and if you want to increase the printing speeds during print you can always do so by utilizing the touchscreen and speaking of slow prints as a last test I inserted flexible peel effects filament into the extruder and started a phone case print now due to the required slow speeds the complete print took around six hours but on the other hand there were no problems like clocking while using this flexible filament and the result was also not how fast so after all these prints and tests do I think the printer is worth the $800 well kind of coming from a mechanical and electrical side of view the printer woods well made aluminum structure large print volume awesome clothes power supply robust connectors super handy auto level bat feature and direct extruder definitely make it worth the money but on the other hand the given slicer settings from the manufacturer were said too fast and a couple of software settings are simply not explained in the manual like for example that you should not increase the extrude speed proportional to the move speeds since there will certainly ruin your prints so all in all it is still just the kids that you need to adjust to create ease and prints it is not a product that works perfectly right out of the box I hope you enjoyed watching this review as always don't forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next time