The printer's construction is made entirely out of aluminum, which provides a robust and durable structure that can support large prints with ease. The design features a large print volume, allowing users to create extended prints without any issues.
Upon first power-up, the printer displays a pretty responsive touchscreen interface that offers various functions such as preheat, move extrude, control fans, and more. However, before printing can commence, the user must perform calibration.
The calibration process involves heating up the print bags to 80 degrees Celsius and then utilizing the included real-touch module for auto bed leveling. This ensures that the printer compensates for the banner's high and low points, resulting in an almost perfect first layer every time. Nevertheless, this process is not without its challenges.
To initiate printing, one must install Repitch eho software and adjust printer settings as outlined in the manual. The slicer settings are also provided on the SD card that comes with the printer. Users must import these settings into their preferred slicing software to achieve optimal results.
Once all necessary steps have been taken, importing an STL file from a computer is done via the touchscreen interface. The print job can be completed by sliding in a spool of ABS filament and preheating the extruder before commencing printing. For quality verification purposes, some test prints were conducted using both ABS and PLA filaments.
One notable discovery made during experimentation was that one of the sliders had become detached from its aluminum profile, causing a significant decrease in print quality. This issue could have been prevented by thoroughly checking the attachments prior to installation. Upon adjusting the slider's positioning nuts, however, improved results were achieved during subsequent prints.
Additionally, due to the increased weight and speed of the motor above the hot ends, some printed lines appeared a bit wobbly. To mitigate this, adjustments had to be made in the slicer settings by reducing printing speeds. These modifications resulted in more consistent line widths throughout the print job.
In an effort to further test the printer's capabilities, flexible peel effects filament was inserted into the extruder and used for a phone case print. The prolonged time needed due to low speeds seemed like a drawback; nonetheless, there were no issues encountered while printing with this particular material type.
Given the results from these experiments and tests, it can be concluded that the printer is worth its $800 price tag. Key features of the device include its well-made aluminum structure, large print volume, powerful power supply, robust connectors, and convenient touch interface controls.
However, in light of the manual's lack of detailed guidance for a few specific software settings, some users may find themselves requiring additional tweaks to produce optimal results.
 
                     
                    
                        WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: ena while back I received this huge parcel  which contained a little monster Tibo  Delta 3d printer now I usually like to  stick to rather low price the 3d  printers like the data 3d printer that  are used for almost all my project  enclosure so far so why would I take  liking to such an $800 machine you might  ask well not only its large print volume  of 34 by 50 centimeters which enables me  to print rather big project enclosures  makes it interesting but also the effect  that it features a kind of Taric  extruder which enables me to print with  flexible filaments this is special since  does our 3d printers usually feature  about next Rooter that is not close  enough to the hot end to play sufficient  pressure to the flexible filaments  without clocking the whole system so the  question is whether this little monster  is roughly eight hundred dollar price  tag let's find out    after opening the parcel and removing  the first layer of foam I was greeted by  a bag of documents that not only  contained the packaging checklists but  more importantly a proper instruction  manual with well-made illustrations that  is the mechanical and electrical bills a  lot the overall packaging for the  components was also well made and  protected almost all the parts from a  carrier shocks during shipping except  for one acrylic glass piece that  apparently broke off the power supply  units now after I gathered all the  components from the parcel and nicely  arranged them on my workbench it was  time for the assembly since the small  bags which were filled with  complementary components we're all  labeled and assigned to a specific  section of the manual building the 3d  printer was super easy and only took  around three to four hours so here is a  quick summary of all the steps first off  I modular feeds followed by a free  aluminum profiles then I inserted the  three sliders secure the top plates to  the other side of the aluminum profiles  attach these double motors to the top  plates assemble three adjustable  tensioners for the belts motor them to  the three axis attach the printbed to  the bottom part of the printer connected  these sliders to the hot ends through  plastic rods attached takes to the motor  to the hot end through a piece of PTFE  tube and secures the motor in midair by  utilizing additional valves the three  sliders and zip ties last but not least  I attached the main control PCB which is  an open-source movie board as well as  the power supply to the top plates and  connected all the electrical components  to one another according to the manual  and with that being done it was time for  the first power up after a short boot  sequence we can use the pretty  responsive touchscreen  - preheat move extrude control the fans  print and much more but what we should  start with is the calibration which  firstly heats up the print bags up to 80  degrees Celsius and then performs an  auto bed leveling by utilizing the  included real touch module that means  when we start a new print the printer  will know where the high and low points  of the banner located and thus  compensates them and will always create  an almost perfect first layer at least  once you find you the distance between  the be a touch module and pads and the  g-code of your slice of software but  before we can print anything  we must install the repitch eho software  and of the printer settings which are  listed in the manual and import the  slicer settings from the SD cards which  are provided by the manufacturer  afterwards it was just the task of  importing an STL file slicing it saving  a 2d SD card inserting it into the  printer and sir can be file via the  touchscreen now for first test I slid  the spool of ABS filament onto the  filament holder pushed it into the  extruder preheated the hot ends and  extruded a bit of the filaments  afterwards I started a couple of  different test prints which all were  successful but the overall quality of  the prints was not very overwhelming as  you can see here with this bold test  prints so to make sure that it was the  printers fault  I spoke the ABS filaments with a spool  of PLA filaments and started a couple  more test prints to confirm that the  quality of the abs and PLA prints was  pretty much the same the good thing  though work was that after playing  around with the machine a bit more I  discovered the culprits one slider was  not properly attached to the aluminum  profile so I removed the top plates and  the affected slider and adjusted its  positioning nuts  afterwards I repeated the boat prints  only to find out that the quality it did  improve but not to a point that would  satisfy me what stood out to  either while the machine was printing  was that due to the fast movements and  the additional weight of the motor above  the hot ends some printed lines looked a  bit Wiggly and imprecise so I went ahead  and lowered all the speed values in the  slicer settings and printed the boats  one last time  the result was once again not perfect  but it certainly showcased that the  printer does have potential of creating  good prints when the settings are all  properly adjusted and if you want to  increase the printing speeds during  print you can always do so by utilizing  the touchscreen and speaking of slow  prints as a last test I inserted  flexible peel effects filament into the  extruder and started a phone case print  now due to the required slow speeds the  complete print took around six hours but  on the other hand there were no problems  like clocking while using this flexible  filament and the result was also not how  fast so after all these prints and tests  do I think the printer is worth the $800  well kind of coming from a mechanical  and electrical side of view the printer  woods well made aluminum structure large  print volume awesome clothes power  supply robust connectors super handy  auto level bat feature and direct  extruder definitely make it worth the  money but on the other hand the given  slicer settings from the manufacturer  were said too fast and a couple of  software settings are simply not  explained in the manual like for example  that you should not increase the extrude  speed proportional to the move speeds  since there will certainly ruin your  prints so all in all it is still just  the kids that you need to adjust to  create ease and prints it is not a  product that works perfectly right out  of the box I hope you enjoyed watching  this review as always don't forget to  Like share and subscribe stay creative  and I will see you next timea while back I received this huge parcel  which contained a little monster Tibo  Delta 3d printer now I usually like to  stick to rather low price the 3d  printers like the data 3d printer that  are used for almost all my project  enclosure so far so why would I take  liking to such an $800 machine you might  ask well not only its large print volume  of 34 by 50 centimeters which enables me  to print rather big project enclosures  makes it interesting but also the effect  that it features a kind of Taric  extruder which enables me to print with  flexible filaments this is special since  does our 3d printers usually feature  about next Rooter that is not close  enough to the hot end to play sufficient  pressure to the flexible filaments  without clocking the whole system so the  question is whether this little monster  is roughly eight hundred dollar price  tag let's find out    after opening the parcel and removing  the first layer of foam I was greeted by  a bag of documents that not only  contained the packaging checklists but  more importantly a proper instruction  manual with well-made illustrations that  is the mechanical and electrical bills a  lot the overall packaging for the  components was also well made and  protected almost all the parts from a  carrier shocks during shipping except  for one acrylic glass piece that  apparently broke off the power supply  units now after I gathered all the  components from the parcel and nicely  arranged them on my workbench it was  time for the assembly since the small  bags which were filled with  complementary components we're all  labeled and assigned to a specific  section of the manual building the 3d  printer was super easy and only took  around three to four hours so here is a  quick summary of all the steps first off  I modular feeds followed by a free  aluminum profiles then I inserted the  three sliders secure the top plates to  the other side of the aluminum profiles  attach these double motors to the top  plates assemble three adjustable  tensioners for the belts motor them to  the three axis attach the printbed to  the bottom part of the printer connected  these sliders to the hot ends through  plastic rods attached takes to the motor  to the hot end through a piece of PTFE  tube and secures the motor in midair by  utilizing additional valves the three  sliders and zip ties last but not least  I attached the main control PCB which is  an open-source movie board as well as  the power supply to the top plates and  connected all the electrical components  to one another according to the manual  and with that being done it was time for  the first power up after a short boot  sequence we can use the pretty  responsive touchscreen  - preheat move extrude control the fans  print and much more but what we should  start with is the calibration which  firstly heats up the print bags up to 80  degrees Celsius and then performs an  auto bed leveling by utilizing the  included real touch module that means  when we start a new print the printer  will know where the high and low points  of the banner located and thus  compensates them and will always create  an almost perfect first layer at least  once you find you the distance between  the be a touch module and pads and the  g-code of your slice of software but  before we can print anything  we must install the repitch eho software  and of the printer settings which are  listed in the manual and import the  slicer settings from the SD cards which  are provided by the manufacturer  afterwards it was just the task of  importing an STL file slicing it saving  a 2d SD card inserting it into the  printer and sir can be file via the  touchscreen now for first test I slid  the spool of ABS filament onto the  filament holder pushed it into the  extruder preheated the hot ends and  extruded a bit of the filaments  afterwards I started a couple of  different test prints which all were  successful but the overall quality of  the prints was not very overwhelming as  you can see here with this bold test  prints so to make sure that it was the  printers fault  I spoke the ABS filaments with a spool  of PLA filaments and started a couple  more test prints to confirm that the  quality of the abs and PLA prints was  pretty much the same the good thing  though work was that after playing  around with the machine a bit more I  discovered the culprits one slider was  not properly attached to the aluminum  profile so I removed the top plates and  the affected slider and adjusted its  positioning nuts  afterwards I repeated the boat prints  only to find out that the quality it did  improve but not to a point that would  satisfy me what stood out to  either while the machine was printing  was that due to the fast movements and  the additional weight of the motor above  the hot ends some printed lines looked a  bit Wiggly and imprecise so I went ahead  and lowered all the speed values in the  slicer settings and printed the boats  one last time  the result was once again not perfect  but it certainly showcased that the  printer does have potential of creating  good prints when the settings are all  properly adjusted and if you want to  increase the printing speeds during  print you can always do so by utilizing  the touchscreen and speaking of slow  prints as a last test I inserted  flexible peel effects filament into the  extruder and started a phone case print  now due to the required slow speeds the  complete print took around six hours but  on the other hand there were no problems  like clocking while using this flexible  filament and the result was also not how  fast so after all these prints and tests  do I think the printer is worth the $800  well kind of coming from a mechanical  and electrical side of view the printer  woods well made aluminum structure large  print volume awesome clothes power  supply robust connectors super handy  auto level bat feature and direct  extruder definitely make it worth the  money but on the other hand the given  slicer settings from the manufacturer  were said too fast and a couple of  software settings are simply not  explained in the manual like for example  that you should not increase the extrude  speed proportional to the move speeds  since there will certainly ruin your  prints so all in all it is still just  the kids that you need to adjust to  create ease and prints it is not a  product that works perfectly right out  of the box I hope you enjoyed watching  this review as always don't forget to  Like share and subscribe stay creative  and I will see you next time