**Building and Assembling a Nintendo Switch Clear Shell**

From working if that happens you can ever so slightly filed a white plastic to give the rubber nub more room to breathe or you can exchange for a new shell which would be very inconvenient so it might be to your benefit to test the shell partially built before installing your screen screw back the two gold screws through the left board and screw the corresponding gold screws back into the motherboard do not over tighten these as you don't want to crack the frame on the front.

Now let's turn back to the ZR & ZL button assemblies from the edge pull the white button from its button frame it pops right off with a bit of force then install its button pad into the clear button frame clip the button in place it snaps right in do the same to the other button place the assembled clear button triggers into there pegs on the boards screw down the ZL button with its two gold screws and the Zr with its two corresponding gold screws do not over tighten now.

Slip the left speaker back into place it sits in front of the large ribbon cable that is adhered to the mid frame screw the right and left speakers down with their gold screws reinsert and clip the large ribbon cable backlight cable joystick cable speaker battery other end of the large ribbon cable Wi-Fi antenna cable bluetooth antenna cable LCD ribbon cable then the digitizer ribbon cable right joystick cable and finally the right speaker.

Now take the button board face up and slide it into its slot while doing that make sure that the ribbon cable is routed through its channel in the ZL button frame then use a spudger to slide the cable into its connector on the board clip to secure this is a good time to turn it on and check for function and it looks good.

Slide the ribbon cable of the fan back into its notch on the board seat fan and screw back into place then plug the ribbon cable back into its connector now carefully slide the ribbon cable of the game card slot into its connector then press the assembly down into their slots make sure that they are seated flush screw all seven of its silver same size screws back to place finally let's clean up the residual thermal paste with 90% or more isopropyl alcohol and reinstall new thermal paste.

You 100% must do this for proper functioning of the device I'm using mx4 because it's non conductive place a small P tab then seat the cleaned copper heat pipe on top of it secure with its three screws next. I used a nice line of k5 Pro viscous thermal paste on the heat pipe itself to emulate closely when Nintendo used but you can use mx4 there as well.

Do this before seating back the metal shield which acts as part of the heatsink now screw the three smaller screws into the metal shield and the one large gold screw that secures into the mid frame below now move over the flaps into the back of the clear shell you can use the black ones that came with the kit but they break really easily just a few retaining brackets and screws and it's finished.

Final touch secure the volume and power buttons along with their button pad into place I'm keeping my original buttons but you can use the included black ones clean the back cover of any dust or fingerprints before closing up the switch light now take the back cover and start at the top making sure that it goes over the headphone jack and buttons then clip down the sides bottom make sure all sides are secure perfectly meeting their seams.

Now turn over and screw the four try wing screws into their corners how you do this is imperative screw these down just until you get the slightest bit of resistance if you tighten these too much you will absolutely wake up to seeing stress fractures all over the sides that formed overnight saying from experience now screw the two top screws and the two bottom screws and there you go all back together and perfectly working.

You can check your buttons under system settings under test controller buttons a thing of crystal-clear beauty if your system isn't grey this is where you can install the black bordered screen protector I like how the gray looks so I'm not going to do that so I've been using my atomic purple switch light now for a few weeks no cracking it feels really solid.

I apps we love it I actually find that I use my switch light more now now because these clear shells are prone to stress fractures I don't want to install it in any cases that require me to use a lot of force it's too pretty to cover up anyway now I'm just hoping that more colors are released this would look amazing in blue or green so let me know what you guys think was this tutorial helpful are you tempted now to try this and would you like me to do any other tutorials please let me know so this has been Erica the technology nerd likes to film stuff please like comment and subscribe make sure to share this video if you found it helpful and have a good day you guys bye

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhey everybody this is Erica the technology nerd who likes to film stuff and I wanted to film a fun step-by-step tutorial for you all you have probably seen the atomic purple switch like clear shell mod floating around were interested but we're too scared to try it I haven't seen too many step-by-step guides on how to do this swab so I hope this tutorial demystifies the process while detailing the ups and downs to get this done successfully let's get into it first I wanted to think I fix it so much for sponsoring this video this project would not have been possible without their Pro Tech tool kit though their joy con joystick fix kit has everything you can get away with tool wise to accomplish this project the black original switch joysticks work in the switch light I didn't know that that was cool click the link below to get a kit of your own so for the sake of clarity yes pun intended I chose the colorless clear shell to best show what is happening during this process but the atomic purple is definitely my recommendation it looks amazing it's very reminiscent of the atomic purple gameboy color I chose to configure mine with all the OEM buttons and flaps so shells I got mine off of Amazon though you can get them off eBay as well to my knowledge there's only one manufacturer who makes these replacement shells Mirian Mirian trading in the box we've got both halves of the clear shell a black bordered screen protector in case your switch is a colored version colored buttons clear ZL and Zr button frames black buttons and flaps now as a disclaimer please know that you do this at your own risk okay so for the best result i'm starting off with my grey switch light but you can use any color that you have first unscrew the four back screws with a y0 is your a tri wink screwdriver bit then switch to a j00 bit and remove the two screws at the top and at the bottom they are all the same size now let's take off the back cover start at the bottom near the speaker cutouts with your thumbnail work your way around the case once you get to the top it should come right off hilariously there was a dead cricket that got smeared on my metal shield that must have happened when the shield was milled no other evidence of his untimely demise was found inside the switch I just cleaned off his little carcass with some isopropyl onward next unscrew the three silver screws that hold the shield and the longer gold one which extends down into the mid frame work your thumb nail underneath and it pops right up to reveal a generous glop of pink thermal paste we will clean that later with isopropyl alcohol now before doing anything else let's disconnect the battery for safety reasons to access it we need to unclip the connector to the large ribbon cable that connects the motherboard to the smaller dotter board slide it out and pull it back to reveal the battery connector then I used a spudger to unclip the battery here is a closer look of how this is arranged now we can unscrew the three screws that hold down the copper heat pipe be very careful when you lift it up the copper bends very easily I used my spudger to pull up the tape set that aside for later the residual paste will need to be cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol before being receded with new thermal paste now unscrew these seven silver screws that make up the game card an audio jack assembly these are all the same size unclip the ribbon cable lift and pull out on the back you can see the audio jack is modular and can be unclipped you don't need to do this but it's great news should one of these parts fail now let's unclip the fan and slide out the cable unscrew the three black screws that hold down the fan carefully slide its cable out from the notch in the board now take a look at the button board at the top its flex cable extends down to the left board unclip it then use tweezers to pull it out of the connector remove the button board and set it aside now unscrew the two gold screws of the ZL button it comes right off do the same to the Zr button on the other side set these aside for now next pop out the L and R buttons and be careful when doing this do not lose those Springs now we can start disconnecting all the cables and antennas from the boards start with the speakers carefully use tweezers to pop out the connectors then unclip the small backlight connector and remove the cable unclip and slide out the large flex cable connecting to the motherboard finally unclip and disconnect the left joystick cable unclip the LCD connector and slide that cable out unclip the digitizer and carefully slide out that cable then lastly unclip the right joystick cable and disconnect it with your thumb nail flick and unclip the Wi-Fi antenna and also the Bluetooth antenna now before in screwing the boards let's unscrew the speakers unscrew the gold screw of the left speaker you will notice three silver screws leave those be you do not need to take the speaker chambers apart do the same thing to the other side the gold screw is the same now slowly work the left speaker out of place a bit of adhesive holds it down we need to wait to remove the right one for now we will do that after we unscrew the board now this is a good time to take pictures of the screws on the board I will describe everything to you systematically to make this as seamless as possible unscrew the two gold screws on the Left board then unscrew the two corresponding gold screws on the mainboard note that they are the same size and color they go straight into the plastic of the front plate now let's go back to the smaller board and unscrew the two long silver screws that go through the mid frame beneath the board we don't have these screws on the other side now focusing on the middle region of the device remove the three silver screws I'm calling board screws and these are the same size this allows us to now remove the right speaker slide it out from underneath the motherboard now remove the freed left board carefully remove the motherboard pushing all cables and cords out of the way I slid it inside an anti-static bag for safekeeping now we can remove all of the button covers and their buttons and this is a pretty self-explanatory process for reinstallation they all have notches that make them only suitable one way now let's remove the joysticks each stick is held in by the same two silver screws remove the discard held in by double-sided adhesive then removed the other joystick and dust guard let's turn our attention to the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antennas screwed into the mid frame leave these attached as well as the battery they do not need to come out next unscrew the long silver mid frame screw and the three smaller ones of the same size these are the last screws now carefully pull up the mid frame and push the ribbon cable of the LCD screen out of the way so it doesn't catch and set it aside now we can see the LCD screen so it's been fully disassembled the only thing left is the screen let's start moving things over into this clear shell we need to move the LCD with the digitizer into the top half of the shell it's a bit daunting but this is how I do it safely I'm going to use a hairdryer on the hot setting but you could also use a heat gun on low now for a few minutes I will go all around the frame to warm up the adhesive holding down the screen start with the left corners and press up from underneath do not press the centre of the screen it pulls right up when the adhesive is hot enough very gently pull the screen up little by little take your time not letting anything Bend too much when pulled free the adhesive should stay attached to the screen and not the frame so you can reuse it if needed reheat the adhesive and use a spudger to set any places that came up back down also make sure the ribbon cables don't stick to the adhesive strip next set the screen down at the right side of the case ribbon cables underneath align the screen as far as it will go to the edge when you're happy with the position push the backlight ribbon cable down through its notch in the frame and seat the screen downward it should fit perfectly if not reheat and reseed it here is a close-up of what everything should look like when it's seated properly and then for good security measure I reheated the adhesive and made sure the screen was very well set and flush phew now we can put it all back together place the mid frame back in on top of the LCD screen slide the LCD in cable back through the slot in the mid frame make sure it's seated properly you may need to nudge the Wi-Fi antenna bracket to get it to sit flat then screw the three smaller mid frame screws back into place and the one longer one position the right dust guard back on its two small posts it's double sided adhesive will keep it in place do the same for the left desk guard now install all the buttons and button covers I chose the colored buttons that came with the kits though the originals feel more premium now is a good time to point out that you can use the black original switch joysticks inside the switch light should you want to customize the look further iFixit sells the black joysticks alongside their fix-it kits which has all the tools needed to switch out your joysticks it would also knock out any drift issues at the same time if you encounter it or you can use the white ones or a combination of the two I went with the white ones now screw the left joystick into place with the Flex ribbon cable pointed downward note that the sticks can be used on either side then install the right one with the ribbon cable pointed upward and check your result now before seating the boards back into place I used an air blower to get rid of any particles of dust they would drive me absolutely bonkers seen through the clear plastic seat the motherboard while making sure the ribbon cables don't stay trapped underneath then install the left board also being mindful of the cables now install the right speaker back into place by sliding it underneath the motherboard and screw the three board screws back into place on the left board screw the two long silver screws back through the mid frame do not over tighten these as you could crack the plastic frame on the front now install your L and R buttons push the spring onto its ledge make sure they click and click freely when press this is super important they should not stick at all sometimes the molds that make these shells aren't exact so it makes the L and our buttons fit slightly too tight this makes it so the post extending from the button always presses the black rubber trigger on the board and it keeps the button from working if that happens you can ever ever so slightly filed a white plastic to give the rubber nub more room to breathe or you can exchange for a new shell which would be very inconvenient so it might be to your benefit to test the shell partially built before installing your screen screw back the two gold screws through the left board and screw the corresponding gold screws back into the motherboard do not over tighten these as you don't want to crack the frame on the front now let's turn back to the zr & ZL button assemblies from the edge pull the white button from its button frame it pops right off with a bit of force then install its button pad into the clear button frame clip the button in place it snaps right in do the same to the other button place the assembled clear button triggers into there pegs on the boards screw down the ZL button with its two gold screws and the Zr with its two corresponding gold screws do not over tighten now slip the left speaker back into place it sits in front of the large ribbon cable that is adhered to the mid frame screw the right and left speakers down with their gold screws reinsert and clip the large ribbon cable backlight cable joystick cable speaker battery other end of the large ribbon cable Wi-Fi antenna cable bluetooth antenna cable LCD ribbon cable then the digitizer ribbon cable right joystick cable and finally the right speaker now take the button board face up and slide it into its slot while doing that make sure that the ribbon cable is routed through its channel in the ZL button frame then use a spudger to slide the cable into its connector on the board clip to secure this is a good time to turn it on and check for function and it looks good slide the ribbon cable of the fan back into its notch on the board seat fan and screw back into place then plug the ribbon cable back into its connector now carefully slide the ribbon cable of the game card slot into its connector then press the assembly down into their slots make sure that they are seated flush screw all seven of its silver same size screws back to place finally let's clean up the residual thermal paste with 90% or more isopropyl alcohol and reinstall new thermal paste you 100% must do this for proper functioning of the device I'm using mx4 because it's non conductive place a small P tab then seat the cleaned copper heat pipe on top of it secure with its three screws next I used a nice line of k5 Pro viscous thermal paste on the heat pipe itself to emulate closely when Nintendo used but you can use mx4 there as well do this before seating back the metal shield which acts as part of the heatsink now screw the three smaller screws into the metal shield and the one large gold screw that secures into the mid frame below now move over the flaps into the back of the clear shell you can use the black ones that came with the kit but they break really easily just a few retaining brackets and screws and it's finished final touch secure the volume and power buttons along with their button pad into place I'm keeping my original buttons but you can use the included black ones clean the back cover of any dust or fingerprints before closing up the switch light now take the back cover and start at the top making sure that it goes over the headphone jack and buttons then clip down the sides bottom make sure all sides are secure perfectly meeting their seams now turn over and screw the four try wing screws into their corners how you do this is imperative screw these down just until you get the slightest bit of resistance if you tighten these too much you will absolutely wake up to seeing stress fractures all over the sides that formed overnight saying from experience now screw the two top screws and the two bottom screws and there you go all back together and perfectly working you can check your buttons under system settings under test controller buttons a thing of crystal-clear beauty if your system isn't grey this is where you can install the black bordered screen protector I like how the gray looks so I'm not going to do that so I've been using my atomic purple switch light now for a few weeks no cracking it feels really solid I apps we love it I actually find that I use my switch light more now now because these clear shells are prone to stress fractures I don't want to install it in any cases that require me to use a lot of force it's too pretty to cover up anyway now I'm just hoping that more colors are released this would look amazing in blue or green so let me know what you guys think was this tutorial helpful are you tempted now to try this and would you like me to do any other tutorials please let me know so this has been Erica the technology nerd likes to film stuff please like comment and subscribe make sure to share this video if you found it helpful and have a good day you guys byehey everybody this is Erica the technology nerd who likes to film stuff and I wanted to film a fun step-by-step tutorial for you all you have probably seen the atomic purple switch like clear shell mod floating around were interested but we're too scared to try it I haven't seen too many step-by-step guides on how to do this swab so I hope this tutorial demystifies the process while detailing the ups and downs to get this done successfully let's get into it first I wanted to think I fix it so much for sponsoring this video this project would not have been possible without their Pro Tech tool kit though their joy con joystick fix kit has everything you can get away with tool wise to accomplish this project the black original switch joysticks work in the switch light I didn't know that that was cool click the link below to get a kit of your own so for the sake of clarity yes pun intended I chose the colorless clear shell to best show what is happening during this process but the atomic purple is definitely my recommendation it looks amazing it's very reminiscent of the atomic purple gameboy color I chose to configure mine with all the OEM buttons and flaps so shells I got mine off of Amazon though you can get them off eBay as well to my knowledge there's only one manufacturer who makes these replacement shells Mirian Mirian trading in the box we've got both halves of the clear shell a black bordered screen protector in case your switch is a colored version colored buttons clear ZL and Zr button frames black buttons and flaps now as a disclaimer please know that you do this at your own risk okay so for the best result i'm starting off with my grey switch light but you can use any color that you have first unscrew the four back screws with a y0 is your a tri wink screwdriver bit then switch to a j00 bit and remove the two screws at the top and at the bottom they are all the same size now let's take off the back cover start at the bottom near the speaker cutouts with your thumbnail work your way around the case once you get to the top it should come right off hilariously there was a dead cricket that got smeared on my metal shield that must have happened when the shield was milled no other evidence of his untimely demise was found inside the switch I just cleaned off his little carcass with some isopropyl onward next unscrew the three silver screws that hold the shield and the longer gold one which extends down into the mid frame work your thumb nail underneath and it pops right up to reveal a generous glop of pink thermal paste we will clean that later with isopropyl alcohol now before doing anything else let's disconnect the battery for safety reasons to access it we need to unclip the connector to the large ribbon cable that connects the motherboard to the smaller dotter board slide it out and pull it back to reveal the battery connector then I used a spudger to unclip the battery here is a closer look of how this is arranged now we can unscrew the three screws that hold down the copper heat pipe be very careful when you lift it up the copper bends very easily I used my spudger to pull up the tape set that aside for later the residual paste will need to be cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol before being receded with new thermal paste now unscrew these seven silver screws that make up the game card an audio jack assembly these are all the same size unclip the ribbon cable lift and pull out on the back you can see the audio jack is modular and can be unclipped you don't need to do this but it's great news should one of these parts fail now let's unclip the fan and slide out the cable unscrew the three black screws that hold down the fan carefully slide its cable out from the notch in the board now take a look at the button board at the top its flex cable extends down to the left board unclip it then use tweezers to pull it out of the connector remove the button board and set it aside now unscrew the two gold screws of the ZL button it comes right off do the same to the Zr button on the other side set these aside for now next pop out the L and R buttons and be careful when doing this do not lose those Springs now we can start disconnecting all the cables and antennas from the boards start with the speakers carefully use tweezers to pop out the connectors then unclip the small backlight connector and remove the cable unclip and slide out the large flex cable connecting to the motherboard finally unclip and disconnect the left joystick cable unclip the LCD connector and slide that cable out unclip the digitizer and carefully slide out that cable then lastly unclip the right joystick cable and disconnect it with your thumb nail flick and unclip the Wi-Fi antenna and also the Bluetooth antenna now before in screwing the boards let's unscrew the speakers unscrew the gold screw of the left speaker you will notice three silver screws leave those be you do not need to take the speaker chambers apart do the same thing to the other side the gold screw is the same now slowly work the left speaker out of place a bit of adhesive holds it down we need to wait to remove the right one for now we will do that after we unscrew the board now this is a good time to take pictures of the screws on the board I will describe everything to you systematically to make this as seamless as possible unscrew the two gold screws on the Left board then unscrew the two corresponding gold screws on the mainboard note that they are the same size and color they go straight into the plastic of the front plate now let's go back to the smaller board and unscrew the two long silver screws that go through the mid frame beneath the board we don't have these screws on the other side now focusing on the middle region of the device remove the three silver screws I'm calling board screws and these are the same size this allows us to now remove the right speaker slide it out from underneath the motherboard now remove the freed left board carefully remove the motherboard pushing all cables and cords out of the way I slid it inside an anti-static bag for safekeeping now we can remove all of the button covers and their buttons and this is a pretty self-explanatory process for reinstallation they all have notches that make them only suitable one way now let's remove the joysticks each stick is held in by the same two silver screws remove the discard held in by double-sided adhesive then removed the other joystick and dust guard let's turn our attention to the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antennas screwed into the mid frame leave these attached as well as the battery they do not need to come out next unscrew the long silver mid frame screw and the three smaller ones of the same size these are the last screws now carefully pull up the mid frame and push the ribbon cable of the LCD screen out of the way so it doesn't catch and set it aside now we can see the LCD screen so it's been fully disassembled the only thing left is the screen let's start moving things over into this clear shell we need to move the LCD with the digitizer into the top half of the shell it's a bit daunting but this is how I do it safely I'm going to use a hairdryer on the hot setting but you could also use a heat gun on low now for a few minutes I will go all around the frame to warm up the adhesive holding down the screen start with the left corners and press up from underneath do not press the centre of the screen it pulls right up when the adhesive is hot enough very gently pull the screen up little by little take your time not letting anything Bend too much when pulled free the adhesive should stay attached to the screen and not the frame so you can reuse it if needed reheat the adhesive and use a spudger to set any places that came up back down also make sure the ribbon cables don't stick to the adhesive strip next set the screen down at the right side of the case ribbon cables underneath align the screen as far as it will go to the edge when you're happy with the position push the backlight ribbon cable down through its notch in the frame and seat the screen downward it should fit perfectly if not reheat and reseed it here is a close-up of what everything should look like when it's seated properly and then for good security measure I reheated the adhesive and made sure the screen was very well set and flush phew now we can put it all back together place the mid frame back in on top of the LCD screen slide the LCD in cable back through the slot in the mid frame make sure it's seated properly you may need to nudge the Wi-Fi antenna bracket to get it to sit flat then screw the three smaller mid frame screws back into place and the one longer one position the right dust guard back on its two small posts it's double sided adhesive will keep it in place do the same for the left desk guard now install all the buttons and button covers I chose the colored buttons that came with the kits though the originals feel more premium now is a good time to point out that you can use the black original switch joysticks inside the switch light should you want to customize the look further iFixit sells the black joysticks alongside their fix-it kits which has all the tools needed to switch out your joysticks it would also knock out any drift issues at the same time if you encounter it or you can use the white ones or a combination of the two I went with the white ones now screw the left joystick into place with the Flex ribbon cable pointed downward note that the sticks can be used on either side then install the right one with the ribbon cable pointed upward and check your result now before seating the boards back into place I used an air blower to get rid of any particles of dust they would drive me absolutely bonkers seen through the clear plastic seat the motherboard while making sure the ribbon cables don't stay trapped underneath then install the left board also being mindful of the cables now install the right speaker back into place by sliding it underneath the motherboard and screw the three board screws back into place on the left board screw the two long silver screws back through the mid frame do not over tighten these as you could crack the plastic frame on the front now install your L and R buttons push the spring onto its ledge make sure they click and click freely when press this is super important they should not stick at all sometimes the molds that make these shells aren't exact so it makes the L and our buttons fit slightly too tight this makes it so the post extending from the button always presses the black rubber trigger on the board and it keeps the button from working if that happens you can ever ever so slightly filed a white plastic to give the rubber nub more room to breathe or you can exchange for a new shell which would be very inconvenient so it might be to your benefit to test the shell partially built before installing your screen screw back the two gold screws through the left board and screw the corresponding gold screws back into the motherboard do not over tighten these as you don't want to crack the frame on the front now let's turn back to the zr & ZL button assemblies from the edge pull the white button from its button frame it pops right off with a bit of force then install its button pad into the clear button frame clip the button in place it snaps right in do the same to the other button place the assembled clear button triggers into there pegs on the boards screw down the ZL button with its two gold screws and the Zr with its two corresponding gold screws do not over tighten now slip the left speaker back into place it sits in front of the large ribbon cable that is adhered to the mid frame screw the right and left speakers down with their gold screws reinsert and clip the large ribbon cable backlight cable joystick cable speaker battery other end of the large ribbon cable Wi-Fi antenna cable bluetooth antenna cable LCD ribbon cable then the digitizer ribbon cable right joystick cable and finally the right speaker now take the button board face up and slide it into its slot while doing that make sure that the ribbon cable is routed through its channel in the ZL button frame then use a spudger to slide the cable into its connector on the board clip to secure this is a good time to turn it on and check for function and it looks good slide the ribbon cable of the fan back into its notch on the board seat fan and screw back into place then plug the ribbon cable back into its connector now carefully slide the ribbon cable of the game card slot into its connector then press the assembly down into their slots make sure that they are seated flush screw all seven of its silver same size screws back to place finally let's clean up the residual thermal paste with 90% or more isopropyl alcohol and reinstall new thermal paste you 100% must do this for proper functioning of the device I'm using mx4 because it's non conductive place a small P tab then seat the cleaned copper heat pipe on top of it secure with its three screws next I used a nice line of k5 Pro viscous thermal paste on the heat pipe itself to emulate closely when Nintendo used but you can use mx4 there as well do this before seating back the metal shield which acts as part of the heatsink now screw the three smaller screws into the metal shield and the one large gold screw that secures into the mid frame below now move over the flaps into the back of the clear shell you can use the black ones that came with the kit but they break really easily just a few retaining brackets and screws and it's finished final touch secure the volume and power buttons along with their button pad into place I'm keeping my original buttons but you can use the included black ones clean the back cover of any dust or fingerprints before closing up the switch light now take the back cover and start at the top making sure that it goes over the headphone jack and buttons then clip down the sides bottom make sure all sides are secure perfectly meeting their seams now turn over and screw the four try wing screws into their corners how you do this is imperative screw these down just until you get the slightest bit of resistance if you tighten these too much you will absolutely wake up to seeing stress fractures all over the sides that formed overnight saying from experience now screw the two top screws and the two bottom screws and there you go all back together and perfectly working you can check your buttons under system settings under test controller buttons a thing of crystal-clear beauty if your system isn't grey this is where you can install the black bordered screen protector I like how the gray looks so I'm not going to do that so I've been using my atomic purple switch light now for a few weeks no cracking it feels really solid I apps we love it I actually find that I use my switch light more now now because these clear shells are prone to stress fractures I don't want to install it in any cases that require me to use a lot of force it's too pretty to cover up anyway now I'm just hoping that more colors are released this would look amazing in blue or green so let me know what you guys think was this tutorial helpful are you tempted now to try this and would you like me to do any other tutorials please let me know so this has been Erica the technology nerd likes to film stuff please like comment and subscribe make sure to share this video if you found it helpful and have a good day you guys bye\n"