**Building a Star Wars-Style Prop Gun**

I decided to take on the challenge of building a prop gun inspired by Star Wars, specifically the Imperial shuttle's handle. I wanted to create a functional replica that would accurately replicate the design and functionality of the original prop. To achieve this, I used heat shrink tubing to connect the various components together, allowing me to simply plug in and unplug everything without having to solder or wire them together.

To begin, I designed and 3D printed the main body of the handle, which would serve as the base for the entire assembly. I added some holes on the outside of the model where I could feed extension wires through to connect the various buttons and switch to the microcontroller. These holes were essential in allowing me to wire everything together without having to solder or make any permanent connections.

I added some extension wires to the buttons and the switch, which popped right into place with a friction fit that showcased the importance of precise measurement when building models like this. The long extension wires gave me enough room to wire everything together in its final form. I wired the switch in line to the power source, adding a resistor to the end of the button wires to prevent damage.

To cover up all the joints with heat shrink tubing and ensure that nothing shorted out if it got pushed together on the inside of the tight space, I applied a layer of heat shrink tubing around each joint. This was a crucial step in ensuring that my prop gun would function safely and reliably. With everything wired up, I performed one final FAL test to make sure it all worked before trying to push it into the handle.

I used some hot glue on the inside of this little shuttle I made to hold the Teensy in the prop shield. The hot glue kept everything secure and prevented any of the wires from getting pulled out. I added a blade mount, using CA glue to hold those together, and fed the wires through to just put everything into its place. To prevent any joints from coming loose over time, I applied a little bit of glue to these connections.

I pushed everything in and slid the cap on, ready for the moment of truth. If everything worked as planned, it would play a sound when activated, signaling that it was ready to go. I turned the power switch on, and after some code ran on the microcontroller, it played the sound and displayed colorful animations with four different swing sounds in sequence.

**The Results**

I was thrilled with how it came out and happy with the results. The prop gun was not only functional but also visually striking, emitting a bright light that could be seen even in a fully lit room. It was also quite loud, which I had anticipated would be an issue given its size. To address this, I decided to make some software changes to adjust the sound levels.

**Improvement Plans**

For version two of this prop gun, I plan to make several improvements. First and foremost, I want to add a panel that can come off, allowing me to access all the internals without having to remove the cap on the end. This would enable me to make adjustments as needed without having to disassemble the entire thing.

Another feature I'd like to include is a button cover that pivots back and forth, providing functionality at both the top and bottom. To conceal the power switch, I'll need to learn how to model functioning buttons for the first time. Finally, I plan to create a version two of the handle, which will be showcased on my live stream on Twitch.

**Conclusion**

Building this prop gun was an exciting challenge that pushed me out of my comfort zone. While it's not perfect, I'm extremely happy with how it turned out and proud of what I've accomplished. If you have any ideas or suggestions for improving the design, please let me know in the comments below. Don't forget to check out my other Star Wars projects, which can be found in the description box below. And if you'd like to hang out on Twitch and see the prop gun in action, I'll be sharing that live stream soon.

**Additional Resources**

For more information on my other Star Wars projects, please refer to the following:

* [Star Wars Prop Gun Project]

* [Twitch Live Stream]

* [3D Printing Star Wars Props]

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhey I'm Bob and I like to make stuff today I'm going to make a lightsaber if you know me at all you know that I'm a huge Star Wars fan and building a lightsaber of my own has always been something that I've really wanted to do in fact I've been working on this project on and off for almost 2 years I ran into a big technical roadblock at one point and I just kind of set it aside and didn't touch it for about 6 months that kept happening over and over in that time period a bunch of other projects have come up and I'll link some of those down in the description that are really awesome versions of a very similar setup to what I'm going to make here and of course there are also companies that sell kits that make really beautiful lightsabers and if that's all you need there's some great kits out there that you can get to have one for your costume or just as a prop but you know how I am I just like to make my own stuff so I decided to celebrate this May 4th I'm going to finish this lightsaber once and for all I've been cranking on it for several days and I got it done let me show you how I did it the idea was to 3D model and print the hilt and to do that I had to measure all of the things that were going to go on the inside of it with some digital calipers I got all of the different measurements for all of the different components and then moved into Fusion 360 to model it the entire modeling process took several hours and I'm not going to show it all here but essentially the process was this I made really simple geometric models of all the components that needed to go on the inside and then started with a basic cylinder from that I just made embellishments on the outside of it to add details and I was really just kind of making those up as I went along I am not a pro at 3D modeling at all I'm figuring it out as I go and if I can do it you can do it too it really just takes some practice to figure out what all the tools do and to mess with the shapes enough until you get them to look like you want them to look eventually I was pretty happy with how it turned out so I sent it to my slicing software and then to the 3D printer this was about a 24-hour print the electronics are prototyped and it's easy to see in this state so I want to walk you through it before I try to put it in the hilt that's going to make everything more compressed and just harder to understand the wiring is a little messy because it is prototype at this point so that would be cleaned up but there's really not a whole lot here let's walk through it I've got a strip of these RGB LEDs they're wrapped around a dow rod and they'll be permanently attached later but this should give me a pretty even distribution of light I may have to do some tweaks there once I start building the blade that is connected to this controller this is a Teensy board and there's a bunch of different numbered versions of it but this is the 3.2 if you're interested it's a very small Arduino compatible board has a lot of features it's a really cool little product it's plugging into something called a prop shield and that's an addition to the TC that adds even more functionality this particular prop Shield has an LED driver to drive the blades it has a motion sensor on it and an audio amp so just in that add-on we're adding basically all of the features of the lightsaber it's pretty awesome since the prop Shield has an amp on board it plugs directly into the speaker to power it the speaker is a 3w 4 ohm speaker it's not terribly loud but for size it puts out quite a bit of sound there's only a couple of controls on this there's two buttons one for turning the blade on and off and one for toggling through the colors and those are just plugged directly to pins on the teensi this whole thing will be battery powered eventually and I've tested that and it works but currently I've got it plugged into the wall just so I don't have to mess with the batteries and for that I'll be using four ablea batteries I'll talk about those in just a second but I'm going to use this battery holder this will slide into the hilt and it's got a 9volt battery adapter on it so it's a really simple plug that I can just plug right in this holds four ablea batteries but not just any aa's if you buy a typical alkaline AA battery each one puts out 1.5 volt so if you have four of them together that adds up to 6 volt this entire system only needs 5 volts and if you overvolt it you run the risk of possibly damaging something instead of alkaline I'm going to use these nickel metal hydride batteries you'll see n MH on them and basically these are just rechargeable batteries the big difference is that these only put out 1.2 volts so if you have four of these put together the total is 4.8 volts a little bit under the five but it's much safer and also they're rechargeable and that just makes makes things easier the last little piece I'm going to add in is just this on andof switch I'm going to put that in line after the batteries so it just cuts the power to the rest of the system so I can turn the blade off let's do a quick test of everything just to make sure it works before I start putting it together the first button turns the blade on it animates the light up it plays the humming sound while it's on and since there's a motion sensor in the prop Shield I can trigger swing sounds anytime it's moved also all of these are just simple audio files that I loaded onto the prop Shield the other button just goes through a list of colors that I have preset and it just switch it to a different blade color once you pick a color it stays on that color whether the blade goes up or down if you take out the battery or cut the power it's going to default back to the first color in the list every time so if you want it to always start out green or always start out red you'll just have to put that first in the list in the code I think everything works so now let's tear it apart and actually put it in the saber the blade is going to be made out of this acrylic tube it's about an eighth of an inch thick should be nice and sturdy and it's about 3 ft long so I'm not going to change the length the wooden Dow is going to run down the center of that tube and it has to be held directly in the middle so I've got a way to do that I 3D printed this transparent cap the outside of it was modeled to fit perfectly inside that tube and it's got a little opening on the inside that fits right onto the dowel next I made this blade Mount piece the thicker part down here slides right into the handle the thinner part up top fits right into that tube and the hole in the center fits the the Dow perfectly here's what we've got this is going to go on the inside of that tube and it's going to be wrapped in LEDs and diffusion material but first I have to cut down the Dow and paint it white after some spray paint I slid the Dow through the roll of LEDs and use some CA glue to hold them on I put on one end and then spun the Dow around to tighten them and get them evenly spaced then I put some sea glue on the other end and clamped it down to dry my thought at this point was to add multiple layers of diffusion that were separated with some space in between this entire process ended up not working but essentially what I was trying to do was wrap this in freezer paper and use some spray adhesive to hold it on the Gap in between this and the outer coating should have helped diffuse it for the blade I cut down a piece of this Vellum like material rolled it up into a couple of layers and slid it all the way down through the tube this was a little bit tougher than I expected but I got it after getting the diffusion material on the inside of this I slid in the Dow rod with the LEDs wrapped in paper and it just didn't work the LEDs were all too far apart and they were too close to the outer edge you could just see them they weren't diffused enough so instead I took them off the Dow rod and folded them right at the connection points to get each LED closer together the problem with that is that shortened the overall length of it and I didn't have enough to go up the blade and back down the other side so I looked online and found some other LEDs that will work they're the same type but they're closer together like these these are actually the wrong kind I ordered two strips so that I can mount them in the center of the tube without the dowal rod back to back that should get them farther enough from the outside and give me more room to to put diffusion material in there so while I wait on those to get here I'm going to go ahead and finish up the rest of it and just hope that the LEDs work like they should there was one last step to diffuse the outside of the blade and that was to run over the entire thing with a sander or sanding block the pieces that I had gotten off the printer so far also needed to be sanded down and prepped for paint sanding these down takes down some of the build lines and makes it easier for the filler primer to go in and even out the surface I do two coats of filler primer with a light sanding in between and you end up with a pretty smooth surface now that I have this handle finally printed out I can see that it's just too big the inside diameter of this actually can't change because it's set to fit the speaker just perfectly but I did find that these walls are just a little bit too thick that makes the outside of it really big it kind of feels like a flashlight more than a lightsaber so what I'm going to do is actually go back and remodel the outside of this leaving the Interiors all the same the switch will stay in the same place the buttons will stay in the same place all of the stuff that I've already made will fit on the inside but I'm probably going to change the outside of this I set myself a deadline of May 4th to to get this video out and since this print took over 24 hours I'm not entirely sure that I have enough time to print the other one but I'm going to start it now and if you see this magically changeed shape that's why I'm going to follow the same process that I've done so far but the model will be updated and it'll be a new print since the walls on the new print were thinner it actually took a lot less time to print and I'm way happier with the design I made sure all of the pieces fit together before starting the painting process again I sanded the entire thing covered it in filler primer sanded it again another coat of primer another sanding and then ended up with two coats of a metallic silver paint while that was drying I decided to finish up the blade I had my LEDs in at this point so I cut down a piece of this foam packing material this is the stuff you would wrap around a picture frame if you were going to move I cut down a strip about twice as wide as the blade so that I could fold it over the LEDs I took my two LED strips peeled off the adhesive backing and stuck them together end to end these were longer than I needed and instead of cutting them ahead of time time I waited till I had them stuck together and cut them at the same length I used a knife to take off some of the waterproofing material to expose the terminals on the end of both pieces then I just pushed the terminals back to back and soldered them together I didn't show it here but I did plug those in to make sure that they still worked after cutting them and resoldering them then I just folded the LEDs up inside the material and use some packing tape to wrap it around I can still slide these LEDs out the end if I needed to this took a while but I finally slid this down all the way to the end of the blade then use my transparent cap with a little bit of CA glue to finish it off at this point I was already thinking ahead to the next version of this so I didn't want to spend a whole lot of time on paint but I decided to take some black acrylic paint and just go over these grips that I had modeled into it the only thing left was to assemble everything I extended all of the wires and put connectors on the end of them using the heat shrink tubing so that I could just plug and unplug everything together I added some extension wires to the buttons and to the switch and fed them through the holes in the outside of the model these all popped right into place and stayed there with a friction fit that shows you how important it is to measure your items precisely when you're going to build the model with all of these buttons push into place their long extension wires were now hanging at the bottom and that gave me enough room to wire everything together in its final form I wired the switch in line to the power source I added a resistor to the end the button wires and I tried to cover up all the joints with heat shrink tubing to make sure that nothing shorted out if it got pushed together on the inside of the tight space inside the hilt with everything wired up I did one FAL test of everything to make sure it all worked before I tried pushing it into the hilt I used some hot glue on the inside of this little shuttle I made to hold the Teensy in the prop Shield the hot glue just keeps it in place make sure none of the wires are going to get pulled out I added the blade Mount and used a little bit of CA glue to hold those together and then fed the wires through and just put everything into its place I put a little bit of glue on these joints to hold them there but it's enough that I could probably break it off with a little bit of force in case I needed to get them apart I pushed everything in and slid the the cap on all right it's the Moment of Truth finally after all this time and unless I messed something up when I was putting it together everything should work the power switch has to be turned on and after the code starts running on the microcontroller it'll play a sound to let me know that it's ready to go okay here we go ready it works so let's check out the colors got red and green and white and the animations I've got four swing sounds in there and it just goes through them in sequence so it's not the same sound right after each other but they are pretty similar I'm not sure if the camera can really pick this up but this thing is way brighter than I expected it to be even in a fully lit room and it's kind of loud so I'm going to turn it off while I talk about it I'm really happy with how it came out and of course there are a million things that I want to do differently next time and I am going to make a version two of this from an Electronics perspective it's pretty much done nothing really needs to change there it's plenty loud it's plenty bright and it's got enough controls for what I need the only real changes to that are going to be software stuff I don't have a crash sound in so when the blade hits something I need to add that and that's purely software and most of the other changes are really going to be about the model before I even had this fully printed I was already coming up with other ideas about ways to make it better and a big part of that is adding a panel that can come off that'll let me get to all the internals to make adjustments rather than having to take the cap off the end as it stands now I can get to everything and modify anything that I need to but it would be a lot easier if I had a panel that could just come off another big thing that I want to do is to add a button cover over this that pivots back and forth so it looks like one solid button but it actually has a function in the top and a function in the bottom and of course I want to hide the power switch so it doesn't look so obviously like a power switch but I've never modeled any functioning buttons yet so that's going to be something I'm going to learn I am definitely going to make a version two of the handle and I'll probably end up doing that on my live stream on Twitch so if you want to come hang out with this I'll have links down in the description for that overall I'm extremely happy just to have a working version of this and to call it done even though I am super motivated to continue working on it and to make it better I'd love to know what you think about this let me know down in the comments if you have some ideas ways that I can improve on it I'd love to hear that as well I've got lots of other videos that you might be interested in so be sure to check those out and I'll put a list here of the other Star Wars projects that I've made as well don't forget to subscribe and hit the Bell down there so you get notified as soon as I post a video that's it for this one guys thanks for watching May the force be with youhey I'm Bob and I like to make stuff today I'm going to make a lightsaber if you know me at all you know that I'm a huge Star Wars fan and building a lightsaber of my own has always been something that I've really wanted to do in fact I've been working on this project on and off for almost 2 years I ran into a big technical roadblock at one point and I just kind of set it aside and didn't touch it for about 6 months that kept happening over and over in that time period a bunch of other projects have come up and I'll link some of those down in the description that are really awesome versions of a very similar setup to what I'm going to make here and of course there are also companies that sell kits that make really beautiful lightsabers and if that's all you need there's some great kits out there that you can get to have one for your costume or just as a prop but you know how I am I just like to make my own stuff so I decided to celebrate this May 4th I'm going to finish this lightsaber once and for all I've been cranking on it for several days and I got it done let me show you how I did it the idea was to 3D model and print the hilt and to do that I had to measure all of the things that were going to go on the inside of it with some digital calipers I got all of the different measurements for all of the different components and then moved into Fusion 360 to model it the entire modeling process took several hours and I'm not going to show it all here but essentially the process was this I made really simple geometric models of all the components that needed to go on the inside and then started with a basic cylinder from that I just made embellishments on the outside of it to add details and I was really just kind of making those up as I went along I am not a pro at 3D modeling at all I'm figuring it out as I go and if I can do it you can do it too it really just takes some practice to figure out what all the tools do and to mess with the shapes enough until you get them to look like you want them to look eventually I was pretty happy with how it turned out so I sent it to my slicing software and then to the 3D printer this was about a 24-hour print the electronics are prototyped and it's easy to see in this state so I want to walk you through it before I try to put it in the hilt that's going to make everything more compressed and just harder to understand the wiring is a little messy because it is prototype at this point so that would be cleaned up but there's really not a whole lot here let's walk through it I've got a strip of these RGB LEDs they're wrapped around a dow rod and they'll be permanently attached later but this should give me a pretty even distribution of light I may have to do some tweaks there once I start building the blade that is connected to this controller this is a Teensy board and there's a bunch of different numbered versions of it but this is the 3.2 if you're interested it's a very small Arduino compatible board has a lot of features it's a really cool little product it's plugging into something called a prop shield and that's an addition to the TC that adds even more functionality this particular prop Shield has an LED driver to drive the blades it has a motion sensor on it and an audio amp so just in that add-on we're adding basically all of the features of the lightsaber it's pretty awesome since the prop Shield has an amp on board it plugs directly into the speaker to power it the speaker is a 3w 4 ohm speaker it's not terribly loud but for size it puts out quite a bit of sound there's only a couple of controls on this there's two buttons one for turning the blade on and off and one for toggling through the colors and those are just plugged directly to pins on the teensi this whole thing will be battery powered eventually and I've tested that and it works but currently I've got it plugged into the wall just so I don't have to mess with the batteries and for that I'll be using four ablea batteries I'll talk about those in just a second but I'm going to use this battery holder this will slide into the hilt and it's got a 9volt battery adapter on it so it's a really simple plug that I can just plug right in this holds four ablea batteries but not just any aa's if you buy a typical alkaline AA battery each one puts out 1.5 volt so if you have four of them together that adds up to 6 volt this entire system only needs 5 volts and if you overvolt it you run the risk of possibly damaging something instead of alkaline I'm going to use these nickel metal hydride batteries you'll see n MH on them and basically these are just rechargeable batteries the big difference is that these only put out 1.2 volts so if you have four of these put together the total is 4.8 volts a little bit under the five but it's much safer and also they're rechargeable and that just makes makes things easier the last little piece I'm going to add in is just this on andof switch I'm going to put that in line after the batteries so it just cuts the power to the rest of the system so I can turn the blade off let's do a quick test of everything just to make sure it works before I start putting it together the first button turns the blade on it animates the light up it plays the humming sound while it's on and since there's a motion sensor in the prop Shield I can trigger swing sounds anytime it's moved also all of these are just simple audio files that I loaded onto the prop Shield the other button just goes through a list of colors that I have preset and it just switch it to a different blade color once you pick a color it stays on that color whether the blade goes up or down if you take out the battery or cut the power it's going to default back to the first color in the list every time so if you want it to always start out green or always start out red you'll just have to put that first in the list in the code I think everything works so now let's tear it apart and actually put it in the saber the blade is going to be made out of this acrylic tube it's about an eighth of an inch thick should be nice and sturdy and it's about 3 ft long so I'm not going to change the length the wooden Dow is going to run down the center of that tube and it has to be held directly in the middle so I've got a way to do that I 3D printed this transparent cap the outside of it was modeled to fit perfectly inside that tube and it's got a little opening on the inside that fits right onto the dowel next I made this blade Mount piece the thicker part down here slides right into the handle the thinner part up top fits right into that tube and the hole in the center fits the the Dow perfectly here's what we've got this is going to go on the inside of that tube and it's going to be wrapped in LEDs and diffusion material but first I have to cut down the Dow and paint it white after some spray paint I slid the Dow through the roll of LEDs and use some CA glue to hold them on I put on one end and then spun the Dow around to tighten them and get them evenly spaced then I put some sea glue on the other end and clamped it down to dry my thought at this point was to add multiple layers of diffusion that were separated with some space in between this entire process ended up not working but essentially what I was trying to do was wrap this in freezer paper and use some spray adhesive to hold it on the Gap in between this and the outer coating should have helped diffuse it for the blade I cut down a piece of this Vellum like material rolled it up into a couple of layers and slid it all the way down through the tube this was a little bit tougher than I expected but I got it after getting the diffusion material on the inside of this I slid in the Dow rod with the LEDs wrapped in paper and it just didn't work the LEDs were all too far apart and they were too close to the outer edge you could just see them they weren't diffused enough so instead I took them off the Dow rod and folded them right at the connection points to get each LED closer together the problem with that is that shortened the overall length of it and I didn't have enough to go up the blade and back down the other side so I looked online and found some other LEDs that will work they're the same type but they're closer together like these these are actually the wrong kind I ordered two strips so that I can mount them in the center of the tube without the dowal rod back to back that should get them farther enough from the outside and give me more room to to put diffusion material in there so while I wait on those to get here I'm going to go ahead and finish up the rest of it and just hope that the LEDs work like they should there was one last step to diffuse the outside of the blade and that was to run over the entire thing with a sander or sanding block the pieces that I had gotten off the printer so far also needed to be sanded down and prepped for paint sanding these down takes down some of the build lines and makes it easier for the filler primer to go in and even out the surface I do two coats of filler primer with a light sanding in between and you end up with a pretty smooth surface now that I have this handle finally printed out I can see that it's just too big the inside diameter of this actually can't change because it's set to fit the speaker just perfectly but I did find that these walls are just a little bit too thick that makes the outside of it really big it kind of feels like a flashlight more than a lightsaber so what I'm going to do is actually go back and remodel the outside of this leaving the Interiors all the same the switch will stay in the same place the buttons will stay in the same place all of the stuff that I've already made will fit on the inside but I'm probably going to change the outside of this I set myself a deadline of May 4th to to get this video out and since this print took over 24 hours I'm not entirely sure that I have enough time to print the other one but I'm going to start it now and if you see this magically changeed shape that's why I'm going to follow the same process that I've done so far but the model will be updated and it'll be a new print since the walls on the new print were thinner it actually took a lot less time to print and I'm way happier with the design I made sure all of the pieces fit together before starting the painting process again I sanded the entire thing covered it in filler primer sanded it again another coat of primer another sanding and then ended up with two coats of a metallic silver paint while that was drying I decided to finish up the blade I had my LEDs in at this point so I cut down a piece of this foam packing material this is the stuff you would wrap around a picture frame if you were going to move I cut down a strip about twice as wide as the blade so that I could fold it over the LEDs I took my two LED strips peeled off the adhesive backing and stuck them together end to end these were longer than I needed and instead of cutting them ahead of time time I waited till I had them stuck together and cut them at the same length I used a knife to take off some of the waterproofing material to expose the terminals on the end of both pieces then I just pushed the terminals back to back and soldered them together I didn't show it here but I did plug those in to make sure that they still worked after cutting them and resoldering them then I just folded the LEDs up inside the material and use some packing tape to wrap it around I can still slide these LEDs out the end if I needed to this took a while but I finally slid this down all the way to the end of the blade then use my transparent cap with a little bit of CA glue to finish it off at this point I was already thinking ahead to the next version of this so I didn't want to spend a whole lot of time on paint but I decided to take some black acrylic paint and just go over these grips that I had modeled into it the only thing left was to assemble everything I extended all of the wires and put connectors on the end of them using the heat shrink tubing so that I could just plug and unplug everything together I added some extension wires to the buttons and to the switch and fed them through the holes in the outside of the model these all popped right into place and stayed there with a friction fit that shows you how important it is to measure your items precisely when you're going to build the model with all of these buttons push into place their long extension wires were now hanging at the bottom and that gave me enough room to wire everything together in its final form I wired the switch in line to the power source I added a resistor to the end the button wires and I tried to cover up all the joints with heat shrink tubing to make sure that nothing shorted out if it got pushed together on the inside of the tight space inside the hilt with everything wired up I did one FAL test of everything to make sure it all worked before I tried pushing it into the hilt I used some hot glue on the inside of this little shuttle I made to hold the Teensy in the prop Shield the hot glue just keeps it in place make sure none of the wires are going to get pulled out I added the blade Mount and used a little bit of CA glue to hold those together and then fed the wires through and just put everything into its place I put a little bit of glue on these joints to hold them there but it's enough that I could probably break it off with a little bit of force in case I needed to get them apart I pushed everything in and slid the the cap on all right it's the Moment of Truth finally after all this time and unless I messed something up when I was putting it together everything should work the power switch has to be turned on and after the code starts running on the microcontroller it'll play a sound to let me know that it's ready to go okay here we go ready it works so let's check out the colors got red and green and white and the animations I've got four swing sounds in there and it just goes through them in sequence so it's not the same sound right after each other but they are pretty similar I'm not sure if the camera can really pick this up but this thing is way brighter than I expected it to be even in a fully lit room and it's kind of loud so I'm going to turn it off while I talk about it I'm really happy with how it came out and of course there are a million things that I want to do differently next time and I am going to make a version two of this from an Electronics perspective it's pretty much done nothing really needs to change there it's plenty loud it's plenty bright and it's got enough controls for what I need the only real changes to that are going to be software stuff I don't have a crash sound in so when the blade hits something I need to add that and that's purely software and most of the other changes are really going to be about the model before I even had this fully printed I was already coming up with other ideas about ways to make it better and a big part of that is adding a panel that can come off that'll let me get to all the internals to make adjustments rather than having to take the cap off the end as it stands now I can get to everything and modify anything that I need to but it would be a lot easier if I had a panel that could just come off another big thing that I want to do is to add a button cover over this that pivots back and forth so it looks like one solid button but it actually has a function in the top and a function in the bottom and of course I want to hide the power switch so it doesn't look so obviously like a power switch but I've never modeled any functioning buttons yet so that's going to be something I'm going to learn I am definitely going to make a version two of the handle and I'll probably end up doing that on my live stream on Twitch so if you want to come hang out with this I'll have links down in the description for that overall I'm extremely happy just to have a working version of this and to call it done even though I am super motivated to continue working on it and to make it better I'd love to know what you think about this let me know down in the comments if you have some ideas ways that I can improve on it I'd love to hear that as well I've got lots of other videos that you might be interested in so be sure to check those out and I'll put a list here of the other Star Wars projects that I've made as well don't forget to subscribe and hit the Bell down there so you get notified as soon as I post a video that's it for this one guys thanks for watching May the force be with you\n"