Got Scammed on Another SR20DET...

I Wanted to Refresh My SR and Something Else

I wanted to do and throw this thing back together as a stock refreshed SR, but it's been sad times here, uh, I kind of lost a lot of my motivation and momentum now due to finding out that this engine is not built. Mind you, a non-built SR will still make decent power; they're actually pretty resilient, probably making 400 and will last a long time. It's just sad because I thought I had something much better before I put all this time and energy into it.

I want to make sure it's a good engine, so right now, like obviously, I'm gonna go back on assembling this thing back together. I'm gonna check with the boroscope tomorrow morning, I'm just waiting to go get mine from my other house, and hopefully, um, cylinder boards are half decent, and then I can have some confidence for using it for something. It would be a stock simpler SR and then as much as I hate taking apart a good working car, my gut is telling me I should just pull the SR that I know is built well out of the uh Zenki and put that in the S15 since that's going to be the car that's going to see the most abuse. So, that's where I'm at right now. Uh, I don't want to put any pans back on until I'm able to check with the boroscope so right now, my task is to just clean up the upper and then that way tomorrow morning we'll be ready to just go right back on if it checks out.

The Boroscope Inspection

Amazon, the horoscope showed Amazon having a next-day delivery literally order, and it came in the morning before like 8 a.m. So what I'm looking for is any like vertical scoring which would be the indication of metal or junk or debris. Um, like that right there? Yeah, it looks pretty low in the cylinder though, so it's hard to tell which is right side up and which is not okay. Yeah, so I'm holding it upside down, so there you can see on the side of the rod this piston. So, at the very very bottom, I see some like kind of vertical scuffs but I don't know if the piston actually travels that far because you see that line right there? Yeah, it looks like that's where the piston stops. So that might not be something to be too concerned about.

The Crosshatch Inspection

So, the crosshatches on this one look pretty good again. It just has those vertical lines kind of at the very bottom of the bore which I don't think the piston goes that far so I see the vertical lines I was not hoping for in the bore but see how there's that other line is that the bottom of where the piston stops? It looks like it's just like this motor stabbed multiple times for a long period of time. So, and that's why you're seeing those uh vertical line or horizontal lines but does the piston go down to the very bottom of the bore no? So those vertical lines are not likely then from metal scratching it because that's right at the top of the bore you see right okay or the bottom I should say that's just the skirt scratching that but it's not from the rings because the rings don't go down that far no. The rings you could clearly see it there so then based on the rings, the crosshatch doesn't look too bad and still see it faintly.

The Saga of Springs

Looking at the top now definitely, I'll eat distance and saga of springs continues. I ordered another tool and I like it wasn't really paying attention what you need for the SRS is the one that kind of bolts down has a long rod so you can put pressure on them? That's not going to work because obviously, the head's not off the engine. Dodo me is going to have to wait until Monday to do the springs. All right, so to kind of reiterate the new plan for this is basically everything that I'd planned for it originally, I'll just have to do a little bit more cautious on the tuning side and I will likely put this engine in the 14 and take the 14 engine put in the 15.

The New Plan

I'd say the only thing that's going to go slightly different is getting all the nice pretty hardware from new JDM, all my engine hardware I sent out, and uh Mike over there got it all zinc-coated for me. He's a homie, I'll put a link in the description if you guys need anything zinc-plated or if you need anything vapor honed, he's your guy. Originally, all this hardware is going to go on this engine but what I might do is pull the other engine put them side by side on a stand and then use the nice uh powder-coated brackets and zinc hardware on the built engine so I have like the freshest of the fresh in the fresh build.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enwhat's up guys welcome to today's video uh we are going to be jumping back on the s15 project so finally got some sr parts i got some hardware back so i can start screaming this thing a little bit i can start assembling some stuff in the bay the first thing that we're going to be doing is removing the camshafts out of this engine uh i do plan to put bigger cams in it these are stock cams they're great for the stock s15 turbo that was on it but since we're going to be running a bigger g25 550 i'm going to be upgrading these to something like a 264. so the real reason why i'm moving the cams right now we got to get to the rocker arms if you look you can see how one side has a guide and then the other side has a shim that the rocker arm just kind of sits on very common issue with these engines is losing rocker arms at high rpm or with aggressive limiters one thing that you can do to help alleviate that which i've never done on sr and thankfully have gotten pretty lucky is you do a dual guide conversion so i'll be pulling these rocker arms and the shims and i'll explain you how you could do it if you were to do it yourself but in my case i'm just going to be bringing them to mass work since they offer the service and it's really affordable one of the things that i'm most concerned about is losing timing on the engine i thought about trying to pull the rockers out just by tilting the cams up which i've done in the past and as possible but since we're going to be changing them anyway i decided i'm going to attempt to remove the sprockets from the cams and hopefully they can dangle here and not lose timing in the bottom of the engine because i don't want to have to pull the whole entire oil pump off this thing so the first thing i'm going to do i'm going to attempt to zip tie as much as i can to force the engine to stay in time on both sprockets so that way when they are removed the timing chain can't jump and then we don't have a whole scenario to where i have to re-time this thing this is going to be a problem because there is no hole to zip ties too on this one dang it spit vtc chain two oh the micro is going to change larger so i'm being a little bit overly cautious with this uh to be honest this is the first time i've really gone in depth on an sr i've pulled them apart completely but i've never worked with the timing components or done any of the more internal stuff myself so i'm proceeding with caution before i pull the cams out i wanted to give that tdc i was hoping by turning the engine over enough i could get the timing marks on the chain to line up with the two dots on the cams it seems like i'm gonna be here for a while if i try to do that so i'm going to do my best to get the crank at tdc um and then i'm just going to make two marks with sharpies up top and then hopefully that will get us close to where we need to be so pop this guy on i need to take this off anyway me god yeah i just got oil everywhere i'm gonna mark it and i think i'm also i'm gonna color the whole chain just so it doesn't get mixed up with the other one um i think i'm also gonna see if i can still zip tie one to it you know worst case scenario i have to put the oil pump off which i really don't want to do but we'll see if we can do it without that and have it run right let's see what happens i tried to label a nice mat that way i know what stuff's exhaust and what stuff's intake so this would be exhaust so i will put that here now i can wiggle this off how do i avoid losing timing so i don't think i think now it's putting extra tension on it so now i need to pull the timing tensioner i might need a buddy mic to hold this up just play it safe okay i put camera down okay is our camera recording we are genius hooray for us hopefully that works uh look at this ugly pulley can't wait to take that thing off throw it in the dump so again i don't really know how important certain things are so i'm going to be a little extra careful i know we want to work our way from the outside in when it comes to loosening i could just hit it with a rattle gun but you risk breaking stuff so i'm going to loosen it first with this and then i'll hit it with a rattle gun fun fact this engine has rocker arm stoppers a lot of people like to bait to debate rocker arm stoppers and if they work or not and it seems like the general consensus is they do nothing however i will say in my experience i was driving back from connecticut and in washington dc i lost a rocker arm didn't know it at the time but the rock arm stopper actually kept the rock arm from flying around and doing any damage and i was able to still keep running that engine why am i using such a freaking small ratchet and i was still able to keep running that engine and doing because all of them are missing um the rocker arm stopper saved my engine it doesn't keep rocker arms from flying off but it kept it from flailing around and doing potentially more damage so i'm gonna keep him if you're a hater keep hating so i'm a rocker arm stopper kind of guy rocker arms will be the theme of this build and hopefully in a positive manner call it the rocker rms 15. the reason why we're doing this is because if you are ignorant with this you can like i said break a cam which we don't want to do just because of the pressure we're going to do valve springs retainers on the center so now we're at the fun part we can remove the rocker arms which is as easy as literally just picking them up like this this is what i was talking about so if you look one side has kind of like a groove cut into it right here where the other side is flat so what massarix does is you give them your rocker arm with the shims they take this shim they replace it with one that is the correct height so i think you buy them as like a three mil shim and then what they do is they'll grind it down to match this height that's assuming that the engine is perfectly shim right now i could get super crazy with it and i could measure everything i don't have the tools and i'm just gonna go under the assumption since there's very little valve train noise that it's good enough that's usually what they do anyway so they'll grind the rocker arm down so it can fit and accept a shim on both sides and then they will give me the correct shim and a baggie so i literally just got to bag these up label them and then get them over to them unlike the other engine this one doesn't appear to have a bunch of metal shavings in it so that's always nice mike is going to assist me i'm going to pass him this rock arm so this would be exhaust one that's a fit and then i'll use a magnet to get the shims and that one is complete this is fun this would be like my first time attempting to work on an engine to this extent so we'll be very rewarding or very disappointing let's find out now it's in masworks hands yes um i'm gonna pull out the oil squirters since they're gonna need to get uh primed and gone through i don't think i'm gonna do the valve springs in this episode because i guess i could i just don't know if i have the compression tool thing here tbt i don't remember what these things are called hydraulic lifters yes hydraulic lifters we're gonna pull those out um it's a good habit to clean and prime them it's fun you get to squish them in a bucket of oil like me working on an engine is this hot she just she doesn't have a mic she was like it's the hottest thing on the planet everyone should be building sr-20s right now take notes guys so nerve-wracking i've never done any of this before i'm just winging it she's looking at this she's like my rotaries have like three pieces she's looking at a sea of parts and bolts rotaries are sick i can't wait to build a rotary do you like hydraulic lifters yeah me too she's like i get so much more attention when they're building rotaries because it's so much easier all right so we got a couple of front cross members for the 15. one to replace the broken one and one as a spare one was for the older green s15 but one of the cross members we got locally was tweaked pretty bad so we are going to hold those and hold off on that one and just take both of these for this car and while the green car is down so like that we have a spare wire fab sells a rat relocation kit that comes with everything you need to move the rack forward and even comes out with the templates so that you could lay down the templates on the cross member do your markings and then you pretty much put these slice this piece in and you bolt it down so you got to tweak it a little bit to make it fit perfect and do some final cutting and grinding so that's what i did with this one now this one is ready for welding so i marked it all around grind it all up put these uh there's this reinforcements pieces that goes in here some sleeves so that i could put it in while it gets welded up there's also a brace that goes up here um that holds this frame or cross member intact so it doesn't tweak out of place um so that gets all put on when you tack it and weld it nice i could do that but it's hard to see but there's a tear after the hose clamp right there yep i'd say so that is the problem yeah the waters don't look hot no we can't be so sure until we test that's how you're gonna test uh we got the wheels on who did this who did that one so the 36 transmissions back in we've changed the power bearing again uh i tried something different to see if it holds up doesn't hold up we just gotta get a new pilot bearing uh that is has a bigger diameter that on the crank a collar or section and so that the prone doesn't keep happening it's just pretty much sliding out we're putting the fuel pump back in because as you saw the wiring was kind of sketchy and then that line that hose uh was rough too um we didn't i it was hard to see if there was a crack on it but if there was a crack on it eventually obviously fuel pressure will be released there um so now we're putting it back in we ran the wires through the the top hat on the fuel pump drifted sq has done that before they just remo because of the same issues um and it's not hard to come off so we took them off we ran the new dishware dish works wiring through it heavy gauge all new and we found some permatex epoxy that works with uh fuel ethanol so we put some of that in there and then we use the art uh epoxy on top it hardened up pretty good and now we added some uh dt connectors dodge connectors or whatever to the fuel pump assembly so everything is fresh um so that's the bender stand normally you would want to like bolt it to the floor i don't want to go to the floor and make it fix somewhere because we just move stuff a lot so i made this thing to put this on and there's gonna be a plate on the bottom of this thing that that sits on so that's gonna slide in and then the palm is going to mount to this and it'll be portable around and all that and whatever when we bend stuff and we have to make compound bends we just have to make sure that we sear out or whatever our degree angle on this because of the level on the floor but then they have the caster has locks too so they will be permanent in that spot when we're welding uh bending stuff so that shouldn't be an issue if the floor is not level or if this is not level there's way to work around that but so we're gonna go ahead and try to bend this back so we could use this whole bar sean is doing a good job of holding the camera mike bleed that out please so yeah we have this here i don't wanna redo the whole thing so i'm gonna try to just bend this back i need some fire um the bar is somewhat mucked up on the car marco's notching the the jacking point yeah we're just gonna take over even the filming part that's right got marco here mark was defending the pipe i mean i've been there five years not in the fight he bent the five i lay the pipe that's how we do it around here no you're still recording how do you know how to use that thing we don't thought i really wanted to do some bc springs retainers today however we weren't able to locally get a spring compressor tool we got the little one that they sell at harbor freight doesn't really fit in the engine well so i'm just gonna wait to get the proper tool they had it on amazon so i overnighted it so what i did have come in the mail is my new oil pan um i was advised against using this pan specifically because i guess the threads tend to strip out on them not sure how i feel about it being a cast pan the other pan that i wanted was out of stock so i'm going with this the whole goal is to have a little bit of extra capacity also some baffle flaps in here but the reason why i'm excited for this it means i finally get to pull the pan off this engine i'm told it's a built engine that has forged internals can't confirm but when we pull the pan off we'll be able to see we can see the bottom of the piston we can see the rod and uh maybe the condition of things and make a determination hopefully that this engine is good enough for us to uh throw some boost down so we'll flip this thing upside down and put the new pretty pan on it it's time to take the fan off don't want to bend pan oh i forgot about all this stuff pan looks gross but i think it's just rtv is it is it metal no that's metal love that huh from what i don't know but there's a few bits it looks like a broken shim instead of shim from morocco no i don't know man johann i got bad news it's not just oil that's in the pan i mean i know it's metal it looks like a shim but it's a weird shim yeah the hell maybe it's from a previous blow up before the rebuild wait isn't this the thing yeah that was running yeah she was running great i mean as much as it would suck we could take this oil pan off and see if there's something broken in there the front cover has to come out for that no no that sucks hmm i didn't realize you could see the technically you could kind of time it from down here i'm gonna have to pull the whole lower pan though to look at the pistons and the rods i was hoping i'd be able to see it from in here i really want to pull the strainer to see what's in that i didn't want to pull the lower pan i want to be lazy and leave it i'm not super mad about pulling it because at least i'll have the peace of mind that it's sealed properly um but i really want to get a better idea of what's going on in this thing so unfortunately lower pans coming off always forget about these two little guys right here i did not want to have to do this kangaroo love that all right now we need a light so to me this looks like a stock rod it doesn't have aftermarket rod bolts these rod caps look oem that looks like a nissan logo what about the bottom of the piston can you shine in there pistons look stock too somebody got scammed kind of me but not really me let's look at the crane i don't see any gnarly scoring shining light in here i don't really see anything in there hey but if this is a stock sr i'm not gonna be able to do nearly what i wanted to with it i'm just looking at that grey car thinking to myself that's got a freshly built sr i can steal out of it and put a stock one in it maybe big sad we're here for confirmation yeah that's a stock broadcap for sure he's uh i bet he got screwed honestly someone probably lied to him yeah they look like oem business so i thought too yeah that look over here so it's a stock bottom end with a metal head gasket pretty much um can you see the headstacks um i don't know should work on more before centers well they are pizza so at least it's got airplane head studs in a metal head gasket i just i'm not going to feel comfortable throwing the boost that i wanted to throw at this thing with stock rods even though the pistons are the weak point this thing will be like happiest like we're under 400 horsepower yeah that means we have to open another sort of the only thing that i could think that makes sense is stealing that sr out of that car that one's built when you can it takes an hour to pull it yeah not what i wanted to do and throw this thing back together as a stock refreshed sr and something else sad times here uh i kind of lost a lot of my motivation and momentum now due to finding out that this engine is not built now mind you a non-built sr will still make decent power they're actually pretty resilient probably make 400 and will last a long time it's just sad because i thought i had something much better and before i put all this time and energy into it i want to make sure it's a good engine so right now like obviously i'm gonna i'm interested to see what you guys think and what your suggestions are my gut is telling me that i should just assemble this thing back together i'm gonna check with the boroscope tomorrow morning i'm just waiting to go get mine from my other house and hopefully um cylinder boards are half decent and then i can have some confidence for using it for something um it would be a stock simpler sr and then as much as i hate taking apart a good working car my gut is telling me i should just pull the sr that i know is built well out of the uh zenki and put that in the s15 since that's going to be the car that's going to see the most abuse so that's where i'm at right now uh i don't want to put any pans back on until i'm able to check with the boroscope so right now my task is to just clean up the upper and then that way tomorrow morning we'll be ready to just go right back on if it checks out so amazon the horoscope showed amazon having a next day delivery literally order and it came in the morning before like 8 a.m so what i'm looking for is any like vertical scoring which would be the indication of metal or junk or debris um like that right there yeah it looks pretty low in the cylinder though so it's hard to tell which is right side up and which is not okay yeah so i'm holding it upside down so there you can see on the side of the rod this piston so at the very very bottom i see some like kind of vertical scuffs but i don't know if the piston actually travels that far because you see that line right there yeah it looks like that's where the piston stops so that might not be something to be too concerned about so the cross hatches on this one look pretty good again it just has those vertical lines kind of at the very bottom of the bore which i don't think the piston goes that far so i see the vertical lines i was not hoping for in the bore but see how there's the that other line is that the bottom of where the piston stops it looks like it's just like this motor stab multiple times for a long period of time so and that's why you're seeing those uh vertical line or horizontal lines but does the piston go down to the very bottom of the bore no so those vertical lines are not likely then from metal scratching it because that's right at the top of the bore you see right okay or the bottom i should say that's just the skirt scratching that but it's not from the rings because the rings don't go down that far no the rings you could clearly see it there so then based on the rings the crosshatch doesn't look too bad and still see it faintly all right looking at the top now definitely i'll eat distance and the saga of the springs continues i ordered another tool and i like it wasn't really paying attention what you need for the srs is the one that kind of bolts down has a long rod so you can put pressure on them that's not going to work because obviously the head's not off the engine so dodo me is going to have to wait until monday to do the springs all right so to kind of reiterate the new plan for this is basically everything that i'd planned for it originally i'll just have to do a little bit more cautious on the tuning side and i will likely put this engine in the 14 and take the 14 engine put in the 15. i'd say the only thing that's going to go slightly different i got all the nice pretty hardware from new jdm all my engine hardware i send out and uh mike over there got it all zinc coated for me he's a homie i'll put a link in the description if you guys need anything zinc plated or if you need anything vapor honed he's your guy so originally all this hardware is going to go on this engine but what i might do is pull the other engine put them side by side on a stand and then use the nice uh powder coated brackets and zinc hardware on the built engine so i have like the freshest of the fresh in the fresh build so anyway kind of a disappointing video but uh it happens when you saywhat's up guys welcome to today's video uh we are going to be jumping back on the s15 project so finally got some sr parts i got some hardware back so i can start screaming this thing a little bit i can start assembling some stuff in the bay the first thing that we're going to be doing is removing the camshafts out of this engine uh i do plan to put bigger cams in it these are stock cams they're great for the stock s15 turbo that was on it but since we're going to be running a bigger g25 550 i'm going to be upgrading these to something like a 264. so the real reason why i'm moving the cams right now we got to get to the rocker arms if you look you can see how one side has a guide and then the other side has a shim that the rocker arm just kind of sits on very common issue with these engines is losing rocker arms at high rpm or with aggressive limiters one thing that you can do to help alleviate that which i've never done on sr and thankfully have gotten pretty lucky is you do a dual guide conversion so i'll be pulling these rocker arms and the shims and i'll explain you how you could do it if you were to do it yourself but in my case i'm just going to be bringing them to mass work since they offer the service and it's really affordable one of the things that i'm most concerned about is losing timing on the engine i thought about trying to pull the rockers out just by tilting the cams up which i've done in the past and as possible but since we're going to be changing them anyway i decided i'm going to attempt to remove the sprockets from the cams and hopefully they can dangle here and not lose timing in the bottom of the engine because i don't want to have to pull the whole entire oil pump off this thing so the first thing i'm going to do i'm going to attempt to zip tie as much as i can to force the engine to stay in time on both sprockets so that way when they are removed the timing chain can't jump and then we don't have a whole scenario to where i have to re-time this thing this is going to be a problem because there is no hole to zip ties too on this one dang it spit vtc chain two oh the micro is going to change larger so i'm being a little bit overly cautious with this uh to be honest this is the first time i've really gone in depth on an sr i've pulled them apart completely but i've never worked with the timing components or done any of the more internal stuff myself so i'm proceeding with caution before i pull the cams out i wanted to give that tdc i was hoping by turning the engine over enough i could get the timing marks on the chain to line up with the two dots on the cams it seems like i'm gonna be here for a while if i try to do that so i'm going to do my best to get the crank at tdc um and then i'm just going to make two marks with sharpies up top and then hopefully that will get us close to where we need to be so pop this guy on i need to take this off anyway me god yeah i just got oil everywhere i'm gonna mark it and i think i'm also i'm gonna color the whole chain just so it doesn't get mixed up with the other one um i think i'm also gonna see if i can still zip tie one to it you know worst case scenario i have to put the oil pump off which i really don't want to do but we'll see if we can do it without that and have it run right let's see what happens i tried to label a nice mat that way i know what stuff's exhaust and what stuff's intake so this would be exhaust so i will put that here now i can wiggle this off how do i avoid losing timing so i don't think i think now it's putting extra tension on it so now i need to pull the timing tensioner i might need a buddy mic to hold this up just play it safe okay i put camera down okay is our camera recording we are genius hooray for us hopefully that works uh look at this ugly pulley can't wait to take that thing off throw it in the dump so again i don't really know how important certain things are so i'm going to be a little extra careful i know we want to work our way from the outside in when it comes to loosening i could just hit it with a rattle gun but you risk breaking stuff so i'm going to loosen it first with this and then i'll hit it with a rattle gun fun fact this engine has rocker arm stoppers a lot of people like to bait to debate rocker arm stoppers and if they work or not and it seems like the general consensus is they do nothing however i will say in my experience i was driving back from connecticut and in washington dc i lost a rocker arm didn't know it at the time but the rock arm stopper actually kept the rock arm from flying around and doing any damage and i was able to still keep running that engine why am i using such a freaking small ratchet and i was still able to keep running that engine and doing because all of them are missing um the rocker arm stopper saved my engine it doesn't keep rocker arms from flying off but it kept it from flailing around and doing potentially more damage so i'm gonna keep him if you're a hater keep hating so i'm a rocker arm stopper kind of guy rocker arms will be the theme of this build and hopefully in a positive manner call it the rocker rms 15. the reason why we're doing this is because if you are ignorant with this you can like i said break a cam which we don't want to do just because of the pressure we're going to do valve springs retainers on the center so now we're at the fun part we can remove the rocker arms which is as easy as literally just picking them up like this this is what i was talking about so if you look one side has kind of like a groove cut into it right here where the other side is flat so what massarix does is you give them your rocker arm with the shims they take this shim they replace it with one that is the correct height so i think you buy them as like a three mil shim and then what they do is they'll grind it down to match this height that's assuming that the engine is perfectly shim right now i could get super crazy with it and i could measure everything i don't have the tools and i'm just gonna go under the assumption since there's very little valve train noise that it's good enough that's usually what they do anyway so they'll grind the rocker arm down so it can fit and accept a shim on both sides and then they will give me the correct shim and a baggie so i literally just got to bag these up label them and then get them over to them unlike the other engine this one doesn't appear to have a bunch of metal shavings in it so that's always nice mike is going to assist me i'm going to pass him this rock arm so this would be exhaust one that's a fit and then i'll use a magnet to get the shims and that one is complete this is fun this would be like my first time attempting to work on an engine to this extent so we'll be very rewarding or very disappointing let's find out now it's in masworks hands yes um i'm gonna pull out the oil squirters since they're gonna need to get uh primed and gone through i don't think i'm gonna do the valve springs in this episode because i guess i could i just don't know if i have the compression tool thing here tbt i don't remember what these things are called hydraulic lifters yes hydraulic lifters we're gonna pull those out um it's a good habit to clean and prime them it's fun you get to squish them in a bucket of oil like me working on an engine is this hot she just she doesn't have a mic she was like it's the hottest thing on the planet everyone should be building sr-20s right now take notes guys so nerve-wracking i've never done any of this before i'm just winging it she's looking at this she's like my rotaries have like three pieces she's looking at a sea of parts and bolts rotaries are sick i can't wait to build a rotary do you like hydraulic lifters yeah me too she's like i get so much more attention when they're building rotaries because it's so much easier all right so we got a couple of front cross members for the 15. one to replace the broken one and one as a spare one was for the older green s15 but one of the cross members we got locally was tweaked pretty bad so we are going to hold those and hold off on that one and just take both of these for this car and while the green car is down so like that we have a spare wire fab sells a rat relocation kit that comes with everything you need to move the rack forward and even comes out with the templates so that you could lay down the templates on the cross member do your markings and then you pretty much put these slice this piece in and you bolt it down so you got to tweak it a little bit to make it fit perfect and do some final cutting and grinding so that's what i did with this one now this one is ready for welding so i marked it all around grind it all up put these uh there's this reinforcements pieces that goes in here some sleeves so that i could put it in while it gets welded up there's also a brace that goes up here um that holds this frame or cross member intact so it doesn't tweak out of place um so that gets all put on when you tack it and weld it nice i could do that but it's hard to see but there's a tear after the hose clamp right there yep i'd say so that is the problem yeah the waters don't look hot no we can't be so sure until we test that's how you're gonna test uh we got the wheels on who did this who did that one so the 36 transmissions back in we've changed the power bearing again uh i tried something different to see if it holds up doesn't hold up we just gotta get a new pilot bearing uh that is has a bigger diameter that on the crank a collar or section and so that the prone doesn't keep happening it's just pretty much sliding out we're putting the fuel pump back in because as you saw the wiring was kind of sketchy and then that line that hose uh was rough too um we didn't i it was hard to see if there was a crack on it but if there was a crack on it eventually obviously fuel pressure will be released there um so now we're putting it back in we ran the wires through the the top hat on the fuel pump drifted sq has done that before they just remo because of the same issues um and it's not hard to come off so we took them off we ran the new dishware dish works wiring through it heavy gauge all new and we found some permatex epoxy that works with uh fuel ethanol so we put some of that in there and then we use the art uh epoxy on top it hardened up pretty good and now we added some uh dt connectors dodge connectors or whatever to the fuel pump assembly so everything is fresh um so that's the bender stand normally you would want to like bolt it to the floor i don't want to go to the floor and make it fix somewhere because we just move stuff a lot so i made this thing to put this on and there's gonna be a plate on the bottom of this thing that that sits on so that's gonna slide in and then the palm is going to mount to this and it'll be portable around and all that and whatever when we bend stuff and we have to make compound bends we just have to make sure that we sear out or whatever our degree angle on this because of the level on the floor but then they have the caster has locks too so they will be permanent in that spot when we're welding uh bending stuff so that shouldn't be an issue if the floor is not level or if this is not level there's way to work around that but so we're gonna go ahead and try to bend this back so we could use this whole bar sean is doing a good job of holding the camera mike bleed that out please so yeah we have this here i don't wanna redo the whole thing so i'm gonna try to just bend this back i need some fire um the bar is somewhat mucked up on the car marco's notching the the jacking point yeah we're just gonna take over even the filming part that's right got marco here mark was defending the pipe i mean i've been there five years not in the fight he bent the five i lay the pipe that's how we do it around here no you're still recording how do you know how to use that thing we don't thought i really wanted to do some bc springs retainers today however we weren't able to locally get a spring compressor tool we got the little one that they sell at harbor freight doesn't really fit in the engine well so i'm just gonna wait to get the proper tool they had it on amazon so i overnighted it so what i did have come in the mail is my new oil pan um i was advised against using this pan specifically because i guess the threads tend to strip out on them not sure how i feel about it being a cast pan the other pan that i wanted was out of stock so i'm going with this the whole goal is to have a little bit of extra capacity also some baffle flaps in here but the reason why i'm excited for this it means i finally get to pull the pan off this engine i'm told it's a built engine that has forged internals can't confirm but when we pull the pan off we'll be able to see we can see the bottom of the piston we can see the rod and uh maybe the condition of things and make a determination hopefully that this engine is good enough for us to uh throw some boost down so we'll flip this thing upside down and put the new pretty pan on it it's time to take the fan off don't want to bend pan oh i forgot about all this stuff pan looks gross but i think it's just rtv is it is it metal no that's metal love that huh from what i don't know but there's a few bits it looks like a broken shim instead of shim from morocco no i don't know man johann i got bad news it's not just oil that's in the pan i mean i know it's metal it looks like a shim but it's a weird shim yeah the hell maybe it's from a previous blow up before the rebuild wait isn't this the thing yeah that was running yeah she was running great i mean as much as it would suck we could take this oil pan off and see if there's something broken in there the front cover has to come out for that no no that sucks hmm i didn't realize you could see the technically you could kind of time it from down here i'm gonna have to pull the whole lower pan though to look at the pistons and the rods i was hoping i'd be able to see it from in here i really want to pull the strainer to see what's in that i didn't want to pull the lower pan i want to be lazy and leave it i'm not super mad about pulling it because at least i'll have the peace of mind that it's sealed properly um but i really want to get a better idea of what's going on in this thing so unfortunately lower pans coming off always forget about these two little guys right here i did not want to have to do this kangaroo love that all right now we need a light so to me this looks like a stock rod it doesn't have aftermarket rod bolts these rod caps look oem that looks like a nissan logo what about the bottom of the piston can you shine in there pistons look stock too somebody got scammed kind of me but not really me let's look at the crane i don't see any gnarly scoring shining light in here i don't really see anything in there hey but if this is a stock sr i'm not gonna be able to do nearly what i wanted to with it i'm just looking at that grey car thinking to myself that's got a freshly built sr i can steal out of it and put a stock one in it maybe big sad we're here for confirmation yeah that's a stock broadcap for sure he's uh i bet he got screwed honestly someone probably lied to him yeah they look like oem business so i thought too yeah that look over here so it's a stock bottom end with a metal head gasket pretty much um can you see the headstacks um i don't know should work on more before centers well they are pizza so at least it's got airplane head studs in a metal head gasket i just i'm not going to feel comfortable throwing the boost that i wanted to throw at this thing with stock rods even though the pistons are the weak point this thing will be like happiest like we're under 400 horsepower yeah that means we have to open another sort of the only thing that i could think that makes sense is stealing that sr out of that car that one's built when you can it takes an hour to pull it yeah not what i wanted to do and throw this thing back together as a stock refreshed sr and something else sad times here uh i kind of lost a lot of my motivation and momentum now due to finding out that this engine is not built now mind you a non-built sr will still make decent power they're actually pretty resilient probably make 400 and will last a long time it's just sad because i thought i had something much better and before i put all this time and energy into it i want to make sure it's a good engine so right now like obviously i'm gonna i'm interested to see what you guys think and what your suggestions are my gut is telling me that i should just assemble this thing back together i'm gonna check with the boroscope tomorrow morning i'm just waiting to go get mine from my other house and hopefully um cylinder boards are half decent and then i can have some confidence for using it for something um it would be a stock simpler sr and then as much as i hate taking apart a good working car my gut is telling me i should just pull the sr that i know is built well out of the uh zenki and put that in the s15 since that's going to be the car that's going to see the most abuse so that's where i'm at right now uh i don't want to put any pans back on until i'm able to check with the boroscope so right now my task is to just clean up the upper and then that way tomorrow morning we'll be ready to just go right back on if it checks out so amazon the horoscope showed amazon having a next day delivery literally order and it came in the morning before like 8 a.m so what i'm looking for is any like vertical scoring which would be the indication of metal or junk or debris um like that right there yeah it looks pretty low in the cylinder though so it's hard to tell which is right side up and which is not okay yeah so i'm holding it upside down so there you can see on the side of the rod this piston so at the very very bottom i see some like kind of vertical scuffs but i don't know if the piston actually travels that far because you see that line right there yeah it looks like that's where the piston stops so that might not be something to be too concerned about so the cross hatches on this one look pretty good again it just has those vertical lines kind of at the very bottom of the bore which i don't think the piston goes that far so i see the vertical lines i was not hoping for in the bore but see how there's the that other line is that the bottom of where the piston stops it looks like it's just like this motor stab multiple times for a long period of time so and that's why you're seeing those uh vertical line or horizontal lines but does the piston go down to the very bottom of the bore no so those vertical lines are not likely then from metal scratching it because that's right at the top of the bore you see right okay or the bottom i should say that's just the skirt scratching that but it's not from the rings because the rings don't go down that far no the rings you could clearly see it there so then based on the rings the crosshatch doesn't look too bad and still see it faintly all right looking at the top now definitely i'll eat distance and the saga of the springs continues i ordered another tool and i like it wasn't really paying attention what you need for the srs is the one that kind of bolts down has a long rod so you can put pressure on them that's not going to work because obviously the head's not off the engine so dodo me is going to have to wait until monday to do the springs all right so to kind of reiterate the new plan for this is basically everything that i'd planned for it originally i'll just have to do a little bit more cautious on the tuning side and i will likely put this engine in the 14 and take the 14 engine put in the 15. i'd say the only thing that's going to go slightly different i got all the nice pretty hardware from new jdm all my engine hardware i send out and uh mike over there got it all zinc coated for me he's a homie i'll put a link in the description if you guys need anything zinc plated or if you need anything vapor honed he's your guy so originally all this hardware is going to go on this engine but what i might do is pull the other engine put them side by side on a stand and then use the nice uh powder coated brackets and zinc hardware on the built engine so i have like the freshest of the fresh in the fresh build so anyway kind of a disappointing video but uh it happens when you say\n"