How to Get Your Car Ready for Drifting
**How to Get Your Car Ready to Drift: A Step-by-Step Guide**
Welcome back, everyone! In today’s video, ChrisFix is showing you how to get your car ready to drift in just a couple of days. Whether you're participating in drifting with Club Loose or any other motorsport, the process remains largely the same. From installing safety equipment to tech inspection requirements, Chris will walk you through everything you need to know.
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### **Understanding Tech Inspection**
Before diving into the nitty-gritty, it’s essential to understand what tech inspection entails. This is a crucial step where a qualified individual inspects your car at the track to ensure it meets all safety regulations. These rules are in place not just for compliance but to save lives in case of an accident.
Tech inspections apply to all types of motorsports, including drag racing, autocross, and road racing. Always check the specific rules and regulations of your chosen club or event. Skipping any steps or taking shortcuts can be dangerous and may result in disqualification.
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### **Removing Loose Items Inside the Car**
One of the first things Chris does is remove anything loose inside the car. This includes floor mats, cupholders, and any other items that could become projectiles during an accident or while drifting sideways. For safety reasons, it’s a good idea to keep your interior as clean as possible.
Chris mentions that his car is already cleaned out, which makes the process much easier. If you’re starting fresh, take this opportunity to declutter your vehicle and ensure everything is tied down or removed entirely.
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### **Installing a Custom Shift Knob**
While not a tech inspection requirement, Chris takes this time to install a custom shift knob he received from Racing. This is a quick and easy upgrade that enhances both the look and feel of the car.
For his Mustang, the process involves:
1. Removing the stock shift knob.
2. Applying medium-strength threadlocker to the threads.
3. Installing the base plate and adapter.
4. Securing the final shift nub by hand.
This custom shift knob not only looks great but also ensures a solid connection when rowing through gears on the track.
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### **Installing a Fire Extinguisher**
Fire safety is critical in any motorsport, and installing a fire extinguisher is a key part of tech inspection. Here’s what Chris does:
- Chooses a 2-pound fire extinguisher rated for B and C fires.
- opts for a quick-release metal bracket instead of the plastic one that comes with the extinguisher.
**Mounting Tips:**
- Sit in the driver’s seat to determine the best location for easy reach.
- Avoid mounting it too far away, like under the passenger seat or in the trunk.
- Chris installs his extinguisher underneath the seat, between his legs, where it’s easily accessible even with a seatbelt on.
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### **Removing and Preparing the Front Bumper**
For installing tow hooks, Chris starts by removing the front bumper. He uses panel clip pliers to remove plastic clips and ensures no damage is done to the bumper cover. After removing the bumper, he inspects the crash bar underneath for mounting his tow strap.
Chris marks the spot where he’ll drill the holes and ensures there’s plenty of clearance for the tow hook. He also takes care to avoid damaging the paintwork by placing the bumper on grass or foam during the process.
---
### **Installing a Trailer Hitch in the Rear**
For the rear, Chris opts for a trailer hitch instead of a traditional tow hook. This provides more versatility, especially when transporting equipment like tires, tools, and even a trailer at events.
The installation involves:
1. Removing the rear bumper.
2. Drilling holes in the bumper frame where no extra holes were needed.
3. Using bolts with threadlocker to secure the hitch.
4. Reattaching the bumper with foam insulation tape.
Chris also tests the tow hooks using a block of wood to ensure they hold up under pressure.
---
### **Creating a Custom Heat Shield for the Master Cylinder**
Drifting generates a lot of heat, and protecting your master cylinder from exhaust heat is crucial. Since no off-the-shelf shield was available, Chris creates his own using aluminum sheeting.
The process includes:
1. Using cardboard to design the shield’s shape.
2. Cutting and filing the aluminum to fit.
3. Creating 90-degree bends without special tools (using wood or metal as guides).
4. Drilling holes for bolts and attaching the shield near the firewall with zip ties.
This custom heat shield ensures the master cylinder stays cool, preventing brake fluid from boiling and losing braking power.
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### **Purchasing a Racing Helmet**
Finally, Chris emphasizes the importance of a good racing helmet. Look for:
- A Snell-rated helmet (e.g., SI 2010 or newer).
- Comfort and a snug fit.
- Avoid motorcycle helmets, as they aren’t designed for the same impact.
Chris bought his helmet online after measuring his head size. He stresses not to cheap out on this piece of safety gear—it could save your life.
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### **Tech Inspection Pass**
With all modifications complete—fire extinguisher installed, tow hooks in place, heat shield built, and a racing helmet secured—you’re ready for tech inspection. Chris hopes to pass with flying colors and then hit the track for his first drifting experience.
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### **Final Thoughts**
Getting your car ready to drift is a mix of practicality and safety. Always follow the rules, prioritize safety equipment, and don’t skip any steps. Whether you’re installing a fire extinguisher or building a custom heat shield, attention to detail will make all the difference on the track.
If you enjoyed this video, make sure to subscribe for more behind-the-scenes content and updates from ChrisFix as he continues his drifting journey. Follow him on Instagram and Facebook for exclusive insights!
Stay tuned for the next video where Chris goes through tech inspection and takes his first drift lesson—let’s hope it’s a smooth ride!
"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhey guys chrisfix here and today I'm going to show you how to get your car ready to drift in a couple of days I'll be drifting with Club loose so I printed out their safety requirements to see what needs to get done to the drift sting so it could pass tech inspection tech inspection happens at the track where somebody qualified looks over the car before you go out onto the track to make sure the car is safe and it has all the required safety equipment now I'm going to be getting the drift sting ready to drift but this same process applies to any type of motor sport from drag racing to auto cross to road racing just check the club that you're racing with and get their rules and regulations and read them over and these safety regulations are pretty important they're not meant to be there to be annoying they're there to save your life if something goes wrong so don't take shortcuts even if you don't think it's necessary so I'm going to show you the complete process of getting the drift staying ready to drift and this video is going to cover installing a quick-release fire extinguisher with all the brackets installing tow hooks for the front and the rear of the car and building a custom heat shield over the master cylinder I'm also going to need a racing helmet and I'm going to show you what to look for when getting one and as always everything I use in this video I'll link in the description below so you could easily find it also make sure you guys follow me on Instagram and Facebook because I'm gonna be updating you guys between YouTube videos and when I'm at different events with some really cool behind-the-scenes footage and with that being said let's get this car ready to drift if you remember when I first got the car I took an oil sample because who knows how she was taken care of before me this is a good way to find potential problems with your engine it's like getting blood work done but for your car and well I got the results back I'll leave a copy of my results in the description for you to look at if you're interested but blackstone lab said that there's no coolant or water in the oil and there's no fuel in the oil and everything came back so that overall the engine looks like it's in good shape they even wish me luck alright so with that good news let's get started and the first thing we need to do is remove anything that's loose inside the car and that makes sense for any motorsport you don't want stuff flying around becoming a projectile in case of an accident or even driving normally going sideways something rolls underneath the gas the brake the clutch and that also includes floor mats so we have to remove all the floor mats in the front end in the rear and luckily in my car it's really cleaned out there's nothing in the cupholders nothing in the back seats nothing in the trunk and with everything removed from the car I want to install this awesome custom shift knob that racing sent me although this isn't a requirement the drift we're inside the car so now's a good time to install it for this Mustang all you have to do is unscrew the stock shift knob it comes right off I'm going to add a little bit of medium strength threadlocker at the bottom threads screw on the base plate snug it up add a little more threadlocker for the adapter screw on the adapter and then snug it up and then you just screw on the actual shift nub snug it up by hand nice and tight so it doesn't come loose good check that out it's cool because it matches the exterior color and this thing is a solid shift knob now I'm all set to row through the gears on the track and while the stock shift knob would have worked fine this is a quick install and a nice touch now since we're in the interior of the car let's work on the next safety requirement and that's installing a fire extinguisher the required fire extinguisher has to have a gauge at the top so you could easily read it and know it's full it also has to be a 2-pound fire extinguisher also make sure that your fire extinguisher is good for both B and C type fires since that's what you're most likely to encounter when you're driving a car the last thing is mounting the fire extinguisher you can't use this plastic mount that comes with it because it's not strong enough in case you get into an accident this thing could become a projectile so instead I have this quick-release metal bracket that'll work perfect and when you mount your fire extinguisher what you want to do is you want to sit in the driver's seat just like if you're driving and you can mount it anywhere within reach you don't want to mount it all the way underneath the passenger side seat or all the way in the back or in the trunk where you can't reach it the idea is if you get into an accident the car is on fire and you're trapped in your car you can easily grab your extinguisher which will buy you some extra time so since I have the interior still in this car I can't really mount this near the center console which is a good location it's nice and easy to get to so the next best location is underneath the seat in between your legs it's out of the way you're not going to kick it or anything and I can easily grab it even with my seat belt on so I'm going to install my fire extinguisher right here and to do that I have a simple bracket ear kit it's universal and just so you have an idea of how it's going to get installed before actually put it in the car these attached to the seat brackets in the car and then this is going to mount up to here like that so that's how it's going to look and it comes with all the screws so let's go get the in there now so the first thing we need to do is remove the two fasteners holding the seat down now after removing the nut that holds the seat bracket in place we could slide our mounting bracket in place and we've come across our first problem so our fastener doesn't fit inside the mounting bracket the washer is too wide so to make this fit I'm going to grind down the washer a little bit this fastener is going to get hot so grip it with the pliers this will also keep your fingers away from the grinder and perfect now this fits so we can install our brackets but keep them loose for now then install the crossbar and hand tighten those screws with the crossbar in place we could torque down the seats to 40 foot pounds and then we could tighten up the crossbar screws good now we can put the fire extinguisher angle brackets on and tighten them down then finally add our extinguisher quick release mount and tighten those screws down nice and tight and this extinguisher fits right in and clamps into place and this setup is nice and sturdy alright check that out we are done with our bracket that looks really good I just want to make sure that nothing hits when I move this forward and perfect now let's see how it looks when I'm sitting in the driver seat so this is how it's going to be when I'm driving and check this out if I have my foot on the brake and the gas over here and the clutch it is nowhere near the fire extinguisher and I could reach the fire extinguisher no problem in a case of emergency with my seatbelt on without really leaning over too much I had to lean over just a little bit and I could get to it beautiful so the fire extinguishers in place it's out of the way it fits nicely and it's easily accessible and that's what you want when you're mounting a fire extinguisher so with this mounted let's go move on to our next step and put on our tow hooks now on some cars tow hooks are easy to mount on my Jaguar there's a factory tow mount right down here in the front bumper all you have to do is screw in the tow hook and you're done you're ready to go and it figures unfortunately for the drip sting it's not that easy so I'm going to be using one of these tow straps but you can use a solid tow hook if you want this is just my preference and since there's no factory location i mocked up this tow hook in a spot that i think is going to work well easily accessible in the front so I'm going to have to find a spot behind the bumper to mount it so we're going to have to remove the bumper now for the rear tow hook I'm going to be using a soft tow hook just like the front but on the back I'm going to be installing a trailer hitch now you might be asking why would you do that why would you install a trailer hitch on the Mustang but think about it real quick I'm gonna have to bring a lot of equipment tires a jack jack stands tools more tools my helmet and there's probably stuff I'm not even thinking of right now and this stuff takes up more room than I have in the drifts ting so what I might do is I might get a trailer or even build my own trailer so this trailer hitch will work perfect and then when I get to the track I could disconnect the trailer and connect my tow strap so then I have a place to toe from in the back of the car so with that being said let's install the front tow hook and then we'll come to the back and install this trailer hitch so we could get the rear tow hook on there so let's get the car up on ramps so it's easier to work on the front bumper now removing the front bumper cover on a Mustang is pretty simple there's a couple of plastic Clips up here that need to be removed and any time you remove Clips like this I highly suggest using a panel clip pliers these things are lifesavers they don't damage the clip so you could reuse them they just pop them right out and I'll leave a link to these in the description for you after you get those off we come to the wheel well over here there's a screw up here a screw down here and then if we look under here there's a screw right down here there's also two hidden screws back here and also don't forget if you have fog lights remove the fog light pigtail and then under the bumper there's a couple of more plastic Clips that need to get removed from there we could pop off the bumper and put it down on the grass so we don't scratch the paintwork and let's get that foam out of the way so we have access to our crash bar this is the crash bar we're going to mount the straps to and I'm thinking of mounting the tow strap right here so let's hold it in place with the magnet so we can test fit it with the bumper on the car and taking a closer look there is plenty of clearance so this looks like it'll be a good spot to mount it so let's remove the bumper remove the magnet and Mark where we're going to drill the hole before you drill lubricate your drill bit to keep it sharp you want to start out with a smaller drill bit and work your way up to a larger drill bit now add the bolt and use some thread Locker to keep it from loosening up make sure you get it real tight good now we could add the phone and the newly edit bolt is preventing the phone from sitting flush against the bumper so let's fix that just get a paint marker add a bunch of paint to the bolt surface and then push the phone back to where it was supposed to be and that paint will leave a mark on the foam so we could cut it out exactly where that bolt head is now reinstall the foam look at that no get that worked perfect now let's get the bumper cover on and then you just have to connect the various fasteners at the top at the side underneath all the ones that we took off before but I just want to show you guys what this looks like setting the tow hook exactly where it's going to be that looks awesome it's clearly visible you could easily see it so if somebody needs to tell you out real quick they're not looking around for it when you tow even at an angle upwards it's not really pressing up against the bumper which is good so we won't damage the bumper and there's plenty of room for side-to-side motion and the car could get pulled out if I happen to go off the road so with the front done let's go and do the rear now for the trailer hitch it does come with instructions and the instructions don't say anything about removing the rear bumper just to make it easier I'm going to remove the rear bumper and to do that there's a bunch of screws behind the panel here under the bumper there are a bunch of plastic clips and if we come around to the side there are two screws in the wheel well that need to be removed and after you remove the screws and Clips the bumper comes right out so after checking out the instructions this is probably going to be one of the more difficult hitches to install because you actually have to drill holes the only holes that we're not going to have to drill we could use the factory bolt location for there and for here so we're going to do those first and then we'll be able to get our mounting points here and here and see where we need to drill so this back mounting spot will be secured with that bolt right there so remove the bolt and that's one and that's the other now let's go mock up the hitch I'm using a jack to help support the hitch as I hand tighten the two bolts which is going to hold the hitch in place now mark the place where you need to drill each hole and then unscrew the bolts and remove the hitch so that we could drill our holes all right let's see the spots that we marked so there's one and there's the other now the kit comes with a rectangular washer with a square cut into it and a bolt with a square head and that's supposed to be inside this mess beam and the instruction set it cut a one-inch access hole and I don't want to make this bumper Swiss cheese so I have a better idea I think we'll have an access hole like the front bumper if we remove this foam so let's go drill out these rivets and then pull the foam out and see if we have access force beautiful just as I thought check it out we have easy access so we could put those washers in without drilling extra holes and one tip when you're using these really narrow drill bits is push them all the way in so you just have a little bit sticking out so you don't break them off by mistake now just like before use lubricant on the drill bit and start drilling with a small bit and work your way up to a bigger bit all right so this is looking good so now let's go do this side now add threadlocker on both bolts and let's get the hitch back into place so we could fasten it down now add a washer and then a split washer and then a nut and then hand tighten then with all four bolts in torque them down to the specs listed in the directions in this case 40 foot-pounds all right now our trailer hitch is securely mounted all four fasteners are bolted in next we want to get the foam piece on and then we want to reattach our bumper now we could slide in a great 10.9 bolt and attach our tow hook tighten it down and look at that and just to test out to see if the tow hooks work I got a block of wood we'll do the rear tow hook first I'll put it under here well it's not that much force it'll be enough just to see if it works rather than not testing at all good so pull the drift sting over the wood no problem and I could even pull my truck no prob and the front works as well now let's hope I don't have to use these all right with the front and rear tow hooks installed we have one more thing we need to do to get this car ready for drifting and that's creating a heat shield for the master cylinder the regulations say if your master cylinder is on the same side as your exhaust which in this case we have exhaust manifolds on both sides because it's a v8 so if the master cylinder is on the same side of the exhaust you need to have a heat shield now when you're racing drifting whatever motorsport you're doing on the track you're going to be pushing the engine to the limits which is going to heat up the exhaust more than usual and you don't want that brake system to absorb that heat because that brake fluid could boil and then you'll lose your brakes completely which would not be good in this case they don't make any heat shield specifically for my car so instead I'm going to show you guys how we're going to make our own out of the sheet of aluminum before we go cutting up our nice new sheet of aluminum we're going to use a sheet of cardboard to make our initial design and if you mess up you could get a new piece of cardboard so grab a marker and your cardboard and start marking up where you're going to make some cuts and where some bends are going to be once you do that cut your cardboard out in the design that you think is going to work and then test fit it good this works real nice now we could translate this cardboard design to our aluminum I'm using a cut-off wheel to cut the aluminum since it's a little too thick for the tin snips then file down the edges so they're not sharp now let's go test fit this perfect this is lining up beautifully if we take a closer look you could see the cutout for the brake line right down there the brake lines are not getting touched at all by the aluminum which is exactly what you want you don't anything rubbing so now we just need to create our 90-degree bends to go over the lid here to make a 90-degree Bend without any special tools use something like a straight piece of wood and bend it against that and I'd say that looks pretty good now with this in place I want to make two more bends around the master cylinder so mark the spots to Bend and then use that piece of wood again and I'm using this piece of metal I had laying around to get me the shape I wanted for the other bed so we got a nice couple of bends in here the master cylinder is gonna fit right in here so this isn't gonna rub up against it at any time and I think you're getting the idea of how this works it's a lot of test-fitting cutting test fitting and then cutting until you get it the way you want and once everything's lined up the way I like it I'm gonna go down here I'm just going to get my marker and I'm gonna go back and Mark the hole that I'm going to need to drill for the bolt now we can remove this you can see our hole right at the bottom there we're going to go drill that out perfect I'm also drilling a zip-tie hole as well now I'm using foil back foam insulation tape which is going to provide an extra layer of insulation for the master cylinder and with that tape cut around the edges it's time to mount the heat shield it fits pretty good and near the firewall I'm going to zip tie to hold it in and we have one more thing we need to attach although this thing isn't going anywhere and that is using these bolts right down there and we'll access that through the wheel well so I'm just going to sneak the bolt in from the other side now we'll tighten down the nut then I got this long extension I'm going to fit in here turn it down with the ratchet and want to get it pretty tight so there's no movement and vibrations don't loosen it and look at that now this is secured in there nice and tight this isn't going anywhere and that is how you make your own heat shield it doesn't look cheap it's functional it's going to protect this master cylinder from the hot exhaust manifolds and we shouldn't have any problems with the brakes overheating plus you could still get the cap off if you need and you can see if you're running low on brake fluid for whatever reason so that is perfect and there's one more thing I want to quickly cover that you're going to need if you're doing any type of motor sport and that is purchasing your very own racing helmet the first thing is make sure your helmet meets certification in this case I need a Snell SI rated 2010 or 2015 or greater so as time goes by it might be an SI 2020 or an SI 2025 and so on a motorcycle helmet that's just do t rated won't be good enough because motorcycle helmets are made for a different type of impact than if you're inside a race car I don't have any places to buy helmets near me so I bought this online you could actually easily measure your head they show you exactly what to do and my helmet fits perfect don't cheap out on helmets get something decent this is the Jew and potentially save your life make sure it fits snug it's comfortable it's si rated and go out there and have some fun guys and that is how you get a car ready to drift so in the next video we're going to go through tech inspection and hopefully we make it through tech with no problems and then you guys get to watch me learn how to drift for the very first time hopefully the video is helpful and again all products are listed in the description just in case you want a fire extinguisher tow hooks or racing helmet of your own if you're not a subscriber consider subscribing these next videos are going to be a lot of fun let's see this drips thing gets sideways stay tunedhey guys chrisfix here and today I'm going to show you how to get your car ready to drift in a couple of days I'll be drifting with Club loose so I printed out their safety requirements to see what needs to get done to the drift sting so it could pass tech inspection tech inspection happens at the track where somebody qualified looks over the car before you go out onto the track to make sure the car is safe and it has all the required safety equipment now I'm going to be getting the drift sting ready to drift but this same process applies to any type of motor sport from drag racing to auto cross to road racing just check the club that you're racing with and get their rules and regulations and read them over and these safety regulations are pretty important they're not meant to be there to be annoying they're there to save your life if something goes wrong so don't take shortcuts even if you don't think it's necessary so I'm going to show you the complete process of getting the drift staying ready to drift and this video is going to cover installing a quick-release fire extinguisher with all the brackets installing tow hooks for the front and the rear of the car and building a custom heat shield over the master cylinder I'm also going to need a racing helmet and I'm going to show you what to look for when getting one and as always everything I use in this video I'll link in the description below so you could easily find it also make sure you guys follow me on Instagram and Facebook because I'm gonna be updating you guys between YouTube videos and when I'm at different events with some really cool behind-the-scenes footage and with that being said let's get this car ready to drift if you remember when I first got the car I took an oil sample because who knows how she was taken care of before me this is a good way to find potential problems with your engine it's like getting blood work done but for your car and well I got the results back I'll leave a copy of my results in the description for you to look at if you're interested but blackstone lab said that there's no coolant or water in the oil and there's no fuel in the oil and everything came back so that overall the engine looks like it's in good shape they even wish me luck alright so with that good news let's get started and the first thing we need to do is remove anything that's loose inside the car and that makes sense for any motorsport you don't want stuff flying around becoming a projectile in case of an accident or even driving normally going sideways something rolls underneath the gas the brake the clutch and that also includes floor mats so we have to remove all the floor mats in the front end in the rear and luckily in my car it's really cleaned out there's nothing in the cupholders nothing in the back seats nothing in the trunk and with everything removed from the car I want to install this awesome custom shift knob that racing sent me although this isn't a requirement the drift we're inside the car so now's a good time to install it for this Mustang all you have to do is unscrew the stock shift knob it comes right off I'm going to add a little bit of medium strength threadlocker at the bottom threads screw on the base plate snug it up add a little more threadlocker for the adapter screw on the adapter and then snug it up and then you just screw on the actual shift nub snug it up by hand nice and tight so it doesn't come loose good check that out it's cool because it matches the exterior color and this thing is a solid shift knob now I'm all set to row through the gears on the track and while the stock shift knob would have worked fine this is a quick install and a nice touch now since we're in the interior of the car let's work on the next safety requirement and that's installing a fire extinguisher the required fire extinguisher has to have a gauge at the top so you could easily read it and know it's full it also has to be a 2-pound fire extinguisher also make sure that your fire extinguisher is good for both B and C type fires since that's what you're most likely to encounter when you're driving a car the last thing is mounting the fire extinguisher you can't use this plastic mount that comes with it because it's not strong enough in case you get into an accident this thing could become a projectile so instead I have this quick-release metal bracket that'll work perfect and when you mount your fire extinguisher what you want to do is you want to sit in the driver's seat just like if you're driving and you can mount it anywhere within reach you don't want to mount it all the way underneath the passenger side seat or all the way in the back or in the trunk where you can't reach it the idea is if you get into an accident the car is on fire and you're trapped in your car you can easily grab your extinguisher which will buy you some extra time so since I have the interior still in this car I can't really mount this near the center console which is a good location it's nice and easy to get to so the next best location is underneath the seat in between your legs it's out of the way you're not going to kick it or anything and I can easily grab it even with my seat belt on so I'm going to install my fire extinguisher right here and to do that I have a simple bracket ear kit it's universal and just so you have an idea of how it's going to get installed before actually put it in the car these attached to the seat brackets in the car and then this is going to mount up to here like that so that's how it's going to look and it comes with all the screws so let's go get the in there now so the first thing we need to do is remove the two fasteners holding the seat down now after removing the nut that holds the seat bracket in place we could slide our mounting bracket in place and we've come across our first problem so our fastener doesn't fit inside the mounting bracket the washer is too wide so to make this fit I'm going to grind down the washer a little bit this fastener is going to get hot so grip it with the pliers this will also keep your fingers away from the grinder and perfect now this fits so we can install our brackets but keep them loose for now then install the crossbar and hand tighten those screws with the crossbar in place we could torque down the seats to 40 foot pounds and then we could tighten up the crossbar screws good now we can put the fire extinguisher angle brackets on and tighten them down then finally add our extinguisher quick release mount and tighten those screws down nice and tight and this extinguisher fits right in and clamps into place and this setup is nice and sturdy alright check that out we are done with our bracket that looks really good I just want to make sure that nothing hits when I move this forward and perfect now let's see how it looks when I'm sitting in the driver seat so this is how it's going to be when I'm driving and check this out if I have my foot on the brake and the gas over here and the clutch it is nowhere near the fire extinguisher and I could reach the fire extinguisher no problem in a case of emergency with my seatbelt on without really leaning over too much I had to lean over just a little bit and I could get to it beautiful so the fire extinguishers in place it's out of the way it fits nicely and it's easily accessible and that's what you want when you're mounting a fire extinguisher so with this mounted let's go move on to our next step and put on our tow hooks now on some cars tow hooks are easy to mount on my Jaguar there's a factory tow mount right down here in the front bumper all you have to do is screw in the tow hook and you're done you're ready to go and it figures unfortunately for the drip sting it's not that easy so I'm going to be using one of these tow straps but you can use a solid tow hook if you want this is just my preference and since there's no factory location i mocked up this tow hook in a spot that i think is going to work well easily accessible in the front so I'm going to have to find a spot behind the bumper to mount it so we're going to have to remove the bumper now for the rear tow hook I'm going to be using a soft tow hook just like the front but on the back I'm going to be installing a trailer hitch now you might be asking why would you do that why would you install a trailer hitch on the Mustang but think about it real quick I'm gonna have to bring a lot of equipment tires a jack jack stands tools more tools my helmet and there's probably stuff I'm not even thinking of right now and this stuff takes up more room than I have in the drifts ting so what I might do is I might get a trailer or even build my own trailer so this trailer hitch will work perfect and then when I get to the track I could disconnect the trailer and connect my tow strap so then I have a place to toe from in the back of the car so with that being said let's install the front tow hook and then we'll come to the back and install this trailer hitch so we could get the rear tow hook on there so let's get the car up on ramps so it's easier to work on the front bumper now removing the front bumper cover on a Mustang is pretty simple there's a couple of plastic Clips up here that need to be removed and any time you remove Clips like this I highly suggest using a panel clip pliers these things are lifesavers they don't damage the clip so you could reuse them they just pop them right out and I'll leave a link to these in the description for you after you get those off we come to the wheel well over here there's a screw up here a screw down here and then if we look under here there's a screw right down here there's also two hidden screws back here and also don't forget if you have fog lights remove the fog light pigtail and then under the bumper there's a couple of more plastic Clips that need to get removed from there we could pop off the bumper and put it down on the grass so we don't scratch the paintwork and let's get that foam out of the way so we have access to our crash bar this is the crash bar we're going to mount the straps to and I'm thinking of mounting the tow strap right here so let's hold it in place with the magnet so we can test fit it with the bumper on the car and taking a closer look there is plenty of clearance so this looks like it'll be a good spot to mount it so let's remove the bumper remove the magnet and Mark where we're going to drill the hole before you drill lubricate your drill bit to keep it sharp you want to start out with a smaller drill bit and work your way up to a larger drill bit now add the bolt and use some thread Locker to keep it from loosening up make sure you get it real tight good now we could add the phone and the newly edit bolt is preventing the phone from sitting flush against the bumper so let's fix that just get a paint marker add a bunch of paint to the bolt surface and then push the phone back to where it was supposed to be and that paint will leave a mark on the foam so we could cut it out exactly where that bolt head is now reinstall the foam look at that no get that worked perfect now let's get the bumper cover on and then you just have to connect the various fasteners at the top at the side underneath all the ones that we took off before but I just want to show you guys what this looks like setting the tow hook exactly where it's going to be that looks awesome it's clearly visible you could easily see it so if somebody needs to tell you out real quick they're not looking around for it when you tow even at an angle upwards it's not really pressing up against the bumper which is good so we won't damage the bumper and there's plenty of room for side-to-side motion and the car could get pulled out if I happen to go off the road so with the front done let's go and do the rear now for the trailer hitch it does come with instructions and the instructions don't say anything about removing the rear bumper just to make it easier I'm going to remove the rear bumper and to do that there's a bunch of screws behind the panel here under the bumper there are a bunch of plastic clips and if we come around to the side there are two screws in the wheel well that need to be removed and after you remove the screws and Clips the bumper comes right out so after checking out the instructions this is probably going to be one of the more difficult hitches to install because you actually have to drill holes the only holes that we're not going to have to drill we could use the factory bolt location for there and for here so we're going to do those first and then we'll be able to get our mounting points here and here and see where we need to drill so this back mounting spot will be secured with that bolt right there so remove the bolt and that's one and that's the other now let's go mock up the hitch I'm using a jack to help support the hitch as I hand tighten the two bolts which is going to hold the hitch in place now mark the place where you need to drill each hole and then unscrew the bolts and remove the hitch so that we could drill our holes all right let's see the spots that we marked so there's one and there's the other now the kit comes with a rectangular washer with a square cut into it and a bolt with a square head and that's supposed to be inside this mess beam and the instruction set it cut a one-inch access hole and I don't want to make this bumper Swiss cheese so I have a better idea I think we'll have an access hole like the front bumper if we remove this foam so let's go drill out these rivets and then pull the foam out and see if we have access force beautiful just as I thought check it out we have easy access so we could put those washers in without drilling extra holes and one tip when you're using these really narrow drill bits is push them all the way in so you just have a little bit sticking out so you don't break them off by mistake now just like before use lubricant on the drill bit and start drilling with a small bit and work your way up to a bigger bit all right so this is looking good so now let's go do this side now add threadlocker on both bolts and let's get the hitch back into place so we could fasten it down now add a washer and then a split washer and then a nut and then hand tighten then with all four bolts in torque them down to the specs listed in the directions in this case 40 foot-pounds all right now our trailer hitch is securely mounted all four fasteners are bolted in next we want to get the foam piece on and then we want to reattach our bumper now we could slide in a great 10.9 bolt and attach our tow hook tighten it down and look at that and just to test out to see if the tow hooks work I got a block of wood we'll do the rear tow hook first I'll put it under here well it's not that much force it'll be enough just to see if it works rather than not testing at all good so pull the drift sting over the wood no problem and I could even pull my truck no prob and the front works as well now let's hope I don't have to use these all right with the front and rear tow hooks installed we have one more thing we need to do to get this car ready for drifting and that's creating a heat shield for the master cylinder the regulations say if your master cylinder is on the same side as your exhaust which in this case we have exhaust manifolds on both sides because it's a v8 so if the master cylinder is on the same side of the exhaust you need to have a heat shield now when you're racing drifting whatever motorsport you're doing on the track you're going to be pushing the engine to the limits which is going to heat up the exhaust more than usual and you don't want that brake system to absorb that heat because that brake fluid could boil and then you'll lose your brakes completely which would not be good in this case they don't make any heat shield specifically for my car so instead I'm going to show you guys how we're going to make our own out of the sheet of aluminum before we go cutting up our nice new sheet of aluminum we're going to use a sheet of cardboard to make our initial design and if you mess up you could get a new piece of cardboard so grab a marker and your cardboard and start marking up where you're going to make some cuts and where some bends are going to be once you do that cut your cardboard out in the design that you think is going to work and then test fit it good this works real nice now we could translate this cardboard design to our aluminum I'm using a cut-off wheel to cut the aluminum since it's a little too thick for the tin snips then file down the edges so they're not sharp now let's go test fit this perfect this is lining up beautifully if we take a closer look you could see the cutout for the brake line right down there the brake lines are not getting touched at all by the aluminum which is exactly what you want you don't anything rubbing so now we just need to create our 90-degree bends to go over the lid here to make a 90-degree Bend without any special tools use something like a straight piece of wood and bend it against that and I'd say that looks pretty good now with this in place I want to make two more bends around the master cylinder so mark the spots to Bend and then use that piece of wood again and I'm using this piece of metal I had laying around to get me the shape I wanted for the other bed so we got a nice couple of bends in here the master cylinder is gonna fit right in here so this isn't gonna rub up against it at any time and I think you're getting the idea of how this works it's a lot of test-fitting cutting test fitting and then cutting until you get it the way you want and once everything's lined up the way I like it I'm gonna go down here I'm just going to get my marker and I'm gonna go back and Mark the hole that I'm going to need to drill for the bolt now we can remove this you can see our hole right at the bottom there we're going to go drill that out perfect I'm also drilling a zip-tie hole as well now I'm using foil back foam insulation tape which is going to provide an extra layer of insulation for the master cylinder and with that tape cut around the edges it's time to mount the heat shield it fits pretty good and near the firewall I'm going to zip tie to hold it in and we have one more thing we need to attach although this thing isn't going anywhere and that is using these bolts right down there and we'll access that through the wheel well so I'm just going to sneak the bolt in from the other side now we'll tighten down the nut then I got this long extension I'm going to fit in here turn it down with the ratchet and want to get it pretty tight so there's no movement and vibrations don't loosen it and look at that now this is secured in there nice and tight this isn't going anywhere and that is how you make your own heat shield it doesn't look cheap it's functional it's going to protect this master cylinder from the hot exhaust manifolds and we shouldn't have any problems with the brakes overheating plus you could still get the cap off if you need and you can see if you're running low on brake fluid for whatever reason so that is perfect and there's one more thing I want to quickly cover that you're going to need if you're doing any type of motor sport and that is purchasing your very own racing helmet the first thing is make sure your helmet meets certification in this case I need a Snell SI rated 2010 or 2015 or greater so as time goes by it might be an SI 2020 or an SI 2025 and so on a motorcycle helmet that's just do t rated won't be good enough because motorcycle helmets are made for a different type of impact than if you're inside a race car I don't have any places to buy helmets near me so I bought this online you could actually easily measure your head they show you exactly what to do and my helmet fits perfect don't cheap out on helmets get something decent this is the Jew and potentially save your life make sure it fits snug it's comfortable it's si rated and go out there and have some fun guys and that is how you get a car ready to drift so in the next video we're going to go through tech inspection and hopefully we make it through tech with no problems and then you guys get to watch me learn how to drift for the very first time hopefully the video is helpful and again all products are listed in the description just in case you want a fire extinguisher tow hooks or racing helmet of your own if you're not a subscriber consider subscribing these next videos are going to be a lot of fun let's see this drips thing gets sideways stay tuned\n"