The Art of Building a Roll Cage: A Step-by-Step Guide

As I began working on the roll cage for the 599, I couldn't help but feel a sense of excitement and anticipation. This project was going to be a challenge, but I was determined to get it right. The first step was to create the main hoop, which would provide the foundation for the rest of the roll cage.

I started by measuring out the dimensions of the chassis and marking them onto a piece of tubing. Using my angle finder, I made sure that the bends were precise and on the same plane. This was crucial, as uneven bends could compromise the structural integrity of the roll cage. With the main hoop in place, I began to add additional components, including the two points that would connect to the back of the chassis.

As I worked, I couldn't help but think about the engineering that went into creating this piece of equipment. The 599 was a marvel of modern design, with a chassis that was both strong and lightweight. The engineers at Ferrari had clearly put a lot of thought into every detail, from the material selection to the welding process.

One of the most impressive aspects of the roll cage was its use of multiple points to distribute stress evenly. This allowed for maximum safety in the event of an accident, while also providing a level of flexibility that would help to absorb impact. The diagonal bar that ran across the middle of the roll cage was particularly noteworthy, as it provided additional support and stability.

As I continued to work on the roll cage, I couldn't help but think about the importance of precision and attention to detail. A single mistake could compromise the entire structure, putting drivers at risk of serious injury or even death. That's why it was essential to double-check every bend, every connection, and every component before considering the project complete.

After several hours of work, I finally had a roll cage that I was happy with. It was sturdy, strong, and precisely engineered. I couldn't wait to see how it would perform in action. Next, I turned my attention to the F12, which required a similar level of expertise and precision. The challenges were different, but the principles remained the same.

One of the most notable differences between the 599 and the F12 was the use of advanced materials and technologies. The F12 featured a lightweight chassis that was both stronger and more flexible than its predecessor. This allowed for improved handling and performance, as well as enhanced safety in the event of an accident.

As I worked on the roll cage for the F12, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe at the engineering that had gone into creating this car. The attention to detail was staggering, with every component carefully selected and precision-crafted to ensure optimal performance and safety.

Despite the many advances in technology and design, some things remained the same. The importance of precision and attention to detail never went out of style, and the need for a well-designed roll cage continued to be paramount. With that in mind, I set about creating a six-point roll cage for the F12, using a combination of traditional techniques and cutting-edge materials.

The result was nothing short of impressive. The roll cage was sturdy, strong, and precisely engineered, with multiple points and components carefully selected to distribute stress evenly. It was a testament to the power of engineering and design, and a reminder that even in the most advanced cars, attention to detail is still essential for safety and performance.

As I looked over my handiwork, I couldn't help but feel a sense of pride and satisfaction. Building a roll cage was no easy feat, but it was also an incredibly rewarding experience. Whether you're working on a 599 or an F12, the principles remain the same: precision, attention to detail, and a commitment to safety and performance.

In addition to building the roll cages, I have been working on other projects with the team, including preparing the chassis of the 599 for its return to Tim's car. We also await parts from Ferrari for the F12 project, which should arrive soon. With that in mind, we will continue to work on completing both projects as much as possible.

When working with complex engineering and advanced materials, it's not uncommon for issues to arise. Despite our best efforts, sometimes problems persist, and solutions must be found. However, that is where the expertise of Tim comes into play. He brings a level of knowledge and experience that allows him to troubleshoot even the most difficult issues.

As we move forward with both projects, I am excited to see how they will turn out. Whether it's the 599 or the F12, our team is dedicated to delivering exceptional results every time. With that in mind, let us proceed with caution and precision, knowing that our work will have a direct impact on safety and performance.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enwhat's up guys welcome back to another episode of daily driven Exotics behind me is the F12 completely stripped down we want to start working on the roll cage to do that first step we're going to put this thing up on jack stands I don't know seems okay for now maybe not we just won't shake it a lot yeah there we go no earthquakes guys no earthquakes so this is an aluminum chassis and a roll cage needs to be steel connecting those two is going to be quite difficult there are a lot of cars actually that have bolted in roll cages in aluminum chassis and one of them is the Evo 2 race car from Lamborghini we also have the 550 here that's a steel chassis car with the steel cage welded into it so we can take a look at those cars and I can kind of give you guys an idea of the challenges and the differences between both inch and three quarter tube boxes that are welded directly to the sheet metal floor and then the cage is welded directly to that so the cage has somewhere to go the floor pan is just a very thin piece of sheet metal so you either need a big steel plate down there which still deforms at times if the car were to roll over you can put a very very thick steel plate on top of a very thin steel plate it's going to help it out but it's not really going to stop it from moving so that's why we build these boxes on the side to where they're on a much thicker part of the chassis also it allows us to build the roll cage drop the roll cage down and weld all these top Parts because we didn't want to cut the roof off so sometimes you will actually cut the entire roof skin off of a car and that makes welding everything up top really easy we don't have a carbon fiber roof for this car no one makes one we decided to just make these boxes to where we can drop it and move it around here is the Huracan aluminum chassis Factory Evo 2 race car steel roll cage that is bolted in you can see there's the bolts here and there's a steel plate down there and then there's an aluminum box that they've made and raised that up you can really see how much has come off the floor it's about three inches taller and you can see in the back also those are aluminum boxes with what I'm guessing is thick piece of aluminum that's threaded I'm not sure how we're going to do it yet if we're going to do a threaded aluminum or if we're actually going to make a steel plate that's threaded underneath and rivet it in so we'll have an aluminum piece Steel on the bottom and kind of sandwich the two and I think that could actually create a very strong connection point between the cage and the chassis Dave what's happening listen to me well what I need is the 599 for a retune get slightly more power the audience wants me to drive on road trips with weird people old Ferraris that look stock titles squash of course the AC isn't cold enough pause the build can we just do that tomorrow you're serious you want us to drop everything on the F12 get the ecu's out change the motor mounts yeah no worries see you soon well that changes everything he wants us to overnight these ecu's to eag so he can have them back when he gets back on Monday it's Thursday it's like two almost three o'clock right now we don't have a lot of time we got to get them out Next Day Air why don't you pull the ecu's out we can't drive it anymore obviously so I want to line it up and get it really close we just have to push it straight instead of rolling it and trying to crank the steering wheel and all that so I saw that there was fuel spilling out of the gas door and I popped it open there's a 20 bill in there you mean it was completely empty and there's nothing there I put that money there so that it would be interesting when I opened it exactly that's what happened foreign there that's probably why I was spilling out yeah what do you think it would cost from Ferrari probably like 80 bucks or something no it's got to be like 500 it's aluminum with a Ferrari logo oh yeah that's true yeah I'll have to call Ferrari and find out how much one of these are we'll take two Dave will take you so it's already marked because it's a passenger ECU and do we need any I need to take it out or not I think it just slides in that's easy enough okay well there's one second ECU is out I think I might actually fit in that box this is from eag let's see what they sent us all right a Ferrari party all right I don't think anybody makes these aftermarkets interesting like it's all squishy hydraulic rubber mount so this one has a stud on it we got to get these ecu's off to get them shipped out overnighted stick them in this box securely oh you've been summoned okay ready let's go all right you ready no but let's do it come on we gotta go man this is this old Ferrari alarm system is such a pain come on dude we gotta go we got 10 minutes to get it over there before we can't get it to beag all right let's go there you go made it shipped successfully 123 dollars to get it there tomorrow before noon now it's up to the shipping company to get it there on time we can work on the 599 hopefully that'll be quick then we can actually get started on the f-12 this thing looks so good dude it looks so sick I love this car needs a bit of a wash though it is very dirty I think all the cars in the shop are in need of a wash yeah oh this thing sounds so such a cool car no we don't need it it's decorational just go like this yeah that's the best horn yes well 8 000 RPM V12 revoluter oh wow we are back going up what's going on with this thing I don't really know Dave said he had problems with it but he didn't really explain to me I'm on like a group chat with him and EEG and they're like did you get the parts and I'm like what part apparently they're motor mounts the trans mounts so we're gonna put this thing up in the air and figure out if we can change them do we have the tools to do it I have no idea and also this tire is destroyed Dave was doing some donuts and burnouts and all that kind of stuff so I think he had a lot of understeer here and he didn't realize it's probably just full lock going straight scrubbing those front tires off and he said that the air conditioning doesn't work in a squat portrait and somehow I'm the air conditioning repair guy now one thing at a time though see if we can change the mouse on this thing motor mount one it's not popped yet it's still still Squishy in there the guys at eag said that they were toast and looking at this how much it's pushed down the new Factory Mount is completely flat I'm guessing that this whole thing has kind of sunk down in here and that's what's making this like hydraulic portion of it push out that header is going to make it really difficult bolt is right here about a half inch away from that tube I can't get a wrench in here this way and it's going to be really short range this way so if it's tight it's going to be an absolute nightmare let's check the trans mounts see if they're doable those are a little bit more accessible yeah but we have to drop this whole cross member and that means we have to take the exhaust off also this is not that fun we need a under hoist Jack the 10th Harbor Freight trip that you guys made in like two days do they have like a membership or a punch card could we get like free frozen yogurt over there or something like that cookies some cookies candy some Harbor Freight cookies yeah we got our under hoist Jack and we managed to pull out one of the engine mounts that's the old one that's all bulged out on the bottom that's the new one and you can also see the difference in the height there this one has sunken down quite a bit and this is the new mount it is extremely tight in here no matter what but especially with these headers this is where the mount goes that's the bolt that bolts into the mount you can see how tight that is it barely moves up enough to get flush to get the mount out it was super hard to get a wrench in there and the pry bar to basically crack that nut loose this side is even worse so we've got the dry sump lines on this side and the headers are even tighter over here there's so much stuff we can't get a wrench on this side really the only option is to remove the header there's no other way around it and we have to take off the center section of the exhaust to get the transmission mounts changed so it's going to take a while six or seven hour job but like Dave said cars got to get done there's some issues with getting the header back on this side the studs aren't staying in the head some of the studs had come out of the head and the nuts stuck on them so we're gonna try to run a tap through there and clean up that hole and hopefully we'll be able to get it all back together quickly there we go that's much better so you can see how some of the nuts are like corroded and stuck onto the studs and some of the studs stayed in the head as they're supposed to hopefully we won't have to pull this header off anymore working on the F12 now yeah I know finally right we've had some big Parts delays that is holding me up a bit ideally I would have the transmission right now and I would be fitting it in the car because I don't know if it's actually going to fit the factory F12 has the transmission in the bathroom it's got quite a long bell housing but it kind of tapers down it's a big cone where the drive shaft comes out of in this area it's very small and where the new transmission that we are going to put in the car is very large we may have to cut the transmission tunnel out of the car and remake a whole new transmission tunnel from scratch which is going to be a huge Challenge and I wanted to do that first before we started putting any roll cage tubes in the car because once you have all these tubes in place it just makes it harder to work on the interior of the car the transmission is not here three weeks passed when it was supposed to be delivered I've already paid in full on my credit card not on the DDE cards twenty thousand dollars is a huge component of this car a car will not work without it stressed out about that we just need to start on the roll cage and at least start figuring out where the main hoop is going to go and start bending that up just so we can continue to make progress before these other parts show up now that we've completely torn the car apart like bear chassis we don't have the issue with the diff hitting the fuel tank anymore so that's solved but now we have to figure out where a fuel cell is going to go I wanted to put it up here on this shelf where the factory tank was basically with a shorter cell that would fit in here and not drop too far down and hit the drive shaft but there's a brace in here it looks like a pretty important piece for the rear suspension to keep this tight in there's a brace that goes back here and I did not see that brace until we pulled the tank out but there's another two inch or two and a half inch wide by one inch wide aluminum brace that goes across there there's only about this much room in between those two braces that's not enough room for a cell in the front there it's going to be really tight if we can find a pre-made fuel cell that will fit there possibly to get the weight more centralized in the car the easiest way to do it is obviously drop a fuel cell down here this is going to be all open but it does put the weight in the back of the car and that changes how the car drives all this weight hanging off the back of the car you start using up fuel well now the weight balance is changing more to the center of the car more to the front of the car as the fuel gets burned off so having it centralized helps that quite a bit I also know that you guys had some good comments about issues we were having with the diff and you were saying we could take those end caps and flip them upside down that's a really good idea but I'll show you why that won't work here's the differential it's a quick change differential and you can see there's some castings here so this side is castings but nothing has been drilled or tapped through there but on this side this is a very important part right here this is actually a pin and on the end of it I think is a brass plug or something like that the ring gear inside of here has so much force being put against it by the pinion gear so basically it's a big round ear and a small gear that comes in sideways that turns this ring and pinion as this turns it tries to separate the gears it tries to push them apart and when that happens is you get loose in between the teeth and that causes teeth to break bad wear this basically pushes that ring gear against the pinion and doesn't let it Flex to be able to handle a lot of power this is really important in that spot because that's where the pinion gear is so if we did rotate this upside down that would solve our mounting issues we'd have the mounts on the bottom and it would be easy to make them out for it in the subframe but unfortunately you can't rotate them they have to stay like this and if you flipped it upside down now instead of the drive shaft coming in through the bottom the drive shaft will be coming in through the top that wouldn't work either that would mean our transmission and our differential very very different planes we'd have huge drive shaft angles plus we'd have to chop a bunch out of the transmission tunnel to make it all fit that's just not going to work this is not roll piece tubing this is thin wall we're going to use this to make a template to build our proper main hoop out of this is cheap stuff it's easy to work with it's quick to bend it's quick to cut most rule books state that you can only have four bends in the main hoop that's going to be a bend in this area and a bend in this area so it's gonna be a straight bar across the top we're going to try to get it as tight as possible to the roof allowing a tube to come down the back and all the other tubes that have to be connected to the main hoop which is really the main component of the roll cage the main hoop ties everything together crucial piece to get right and to fit properly so everything else can line up I've got this angle ruler here and it is super handy so tell me how many degrees the band is and I'm just going to put this up here see what my best guess is of what's going to fit there so 150 so it's about 30 degrees bench looks like it might not be enough it might hit there first we might need a little bit more five degrees that looks pretty good I'm going to bend a piece of tubing and see how it fits and add or remove angle from it to get it to fit how I want all right all right so we're starting the bend starting at 40 degrees I'll go look at my measurement that I had and figure out what it's going to be at the end and then we'll bend the tuba you can see this tube and how deformed it is so you have the wrinkles on the inside because basically it's trying to push the material in and then on the outside you've got this flat spot because it's stretching the material out and it's so thin just collapsing this is not the material we're using for the roll cage it's just for the templates this is just going to give us a quick idea of what to bend the real tube at it's going to sit somewhere around there this is hitting when we do a bend for here we'll have to cut a section of this tube off and I think that where we're going to start bending it and where it's going to land is going to be really tight there it's going to be good and it's not going to make contact so I'm going to leave this piece alone for now Bend this other piece and then see how both of them fit together for pretty much every race series they want a 180 degree Bend basically meaning both of these tubes are going to be vertical plus or minus 10 degrees all right it's looking pretty good Mark this tube and cut a section off of it so I can connect these two tubes together then I'm going to confirm that I can get a tube to basically land in the center of this joint and go back and down for the rear stays we get it up too high the tube won't fit in here it's going to hit a bunch of the chassis and I don't want to cut too much of this out I might Barrel sand a little bit for a little bit of clearance but I don't want to do too much we want that to be as tight as possible as high as possible but that tube's got to fit make a quick mark on here cut this tube tack all them together and then I'll fit it in again I have not used this MIG welder before I've heard it was pretty good I'm gonna try it out that looks pretty decent for a 700 welder turn a couple knobs turned it on and it's working pack these pieces together and fit this gauge mock-up in the car well it's tacked let's go fit it in the car and see if it fits thank you that looks pretty good I'm gonna grab another piece of tubing and just make sure that it's going to fit on the back there at the angle that I want it to if that's the case then we can actually transfer this over to proper piece of tubing Bend out the real part so I'm going to do a quick notch on this tube using the same size hole saw as the tube so it's inch and three quarter tube and Notch it out just to help it fit a little bit better just to confirm that our main hoop is in the exact right spot I could just take the square end of the tube and put it up against there and have a decent idea but it takes a few seconds to cut this with a notcher and we can really confirm that it'll fit as tight as I want it to to help me make sure I get this tube straight I want to make sure it's not Twisted at all so I know that the bends are going to work and I'll check and make sure that the car is sitting flat we're good there with zero to point one take this put this in there see which way I need to go with it that's level and our bends are looking pretty good though we might actually put a little bit more Bend in this leg and bring it in attach it we can get this a little tighter up here we're hitting down here and that's holding the tube a little bit farther away from that corner than I want foreign so that's a little bit too tight so we're gonna have to come down a touch to get this tube to fit in here the notch actually looks really perfect just a small change on the angle of the main hoop well I had a couple degrees to that and I think we'll be good to go let me put it in the car and see how it looks I think that's too much you kicked it over way too far around zero there but this is just too far in I want it to land about an inch over there so we'll take a little Bend out of this one careful all right so yeah we took two and a half degrees out of that bend see how it looks in the car so I think I'm happy with that we should be good with our tube here yeah we're good now I need to Mark the exact center so I'll measure the car and measure the center of the roof and make a mark and then I can put a mark in the middle of the tube and then I'll have half the distance of the main hoop and just be able to double that and then bend up the actual tube so 58 inches and we will double it geez Mike how long is this thing uh 22 feet how did you get that door did you get it delivered did you take it in the truck I'm gonna cut that tube with a Sawzall because it's just too big to manage at 22 feet I'll make a rough cut with a Sawzall and then we clean it up and we chops off kind of use for the forklift tires nice someone's gonna comment about how good of a job I'm doing cleaning this tube I'm sure so back over at the 599 Tim needs some help with the Trans amounts and now I see why very difficult to get off it is super tight 27 millimeter nut up on top there's not much room so we pulled the back brace off as well as the transmission mount brace both those are gone and the transmission is about two inches lower than it normally sits in the car still doesn't want to come off it's like no room to get any leverage here so we've got the biggest half inch wrench we can fit into the car there's no way to crack it Loose go back to the pry bar and see if we can get it off of that oh that's gonna slip so now we're basically sitting on the axles that we cannot come down anymore I don't think it's going to work through that there's enough angle in it but I don't think there is no I thought this was supposed to be easy it's a good thing we're doing it after we uh after the transmission was out of the car last week well this side came at least we have a little bit more room on this side and they're not got a quarter turn there foreign make a roll cage grab my tube marked up where the bends are which side of the line I'm going to bend on so I don't mix that up hopefully I'll get it right and not have to do this again and not waste a piece of tubing this tube is going to have a bit more spring back so I'm going to bend this one and adjust it to basically get it to the 55 degrees figure out if it's three or four or five degrees over bent to basically spring back to 55 degrees so I'll check that on this one and then I can replicate it on the other side I'm looking at this tube and this tube and how much is coming back before this tube starts to shift as well barely loading it in the machine so there's not any extra pressure on it showing that it has more Bend when it actually doesn't that looks like we're within a half a degree we should be good there so we will bend the other one the same basically to 99 degrees is what we bent this so bend the other one the same all right so we're going to double check our pattern onto the tube that we just bent so I've got my Center Line Mark here and I've got a center line on here lay this out and see how it's looking it looks like we are a bit wider than I had intended so I can adjust that I can basically move this Center Line Mark and move those over so we don't have the tube that ends up too wide so I'll make a couple adjustments remark that side and then we'll be able to it up all right so I'm going to use the angle finder here also to make sure that both of these bends are on the same plane so we don't end up with legs that are crooked everything goes well this thing will drop right in the car and fit nice and tight if it doesn't well this is gonna become a piece of scrap metal and we'll have to start over again and figure out what I did wrong double checking that the bends match up nice and tight those look good so we'll move on Bend our other two bends and have a main hook oh foreign lays right over the top of it obviously this has a bunch of creases and weird stuff in it but both of the legs are lined up looks good so we'll open the other side do a test fit all right last one is bent let's see how it fits in the car that's looking pretty good the legs are quite a bit longer than I need a whole lot easier to have extra tubing at the end and slowly trim it off to fit as tight as you would want it these bends are looking good it's a bit high right now so it'll come down just a touch after we trim these legs and Pull It in a little bit so what are all the pieces to the roll cage standard six point roll cage is a main hoop and then so each of these would be one two points the two that come from here to the back so another two points and then we've got one that runs next to the driver's head down to the floor over here two points making it a six point cage but then inside of there you would have a diagonal that would come from the passenger floor basically and go up to the points right above the driver's head you've got a harness bar that's going to go across the middle and the harness bar is going to be two pieces the diagonal bar will be one piece because that's the strongest and if the car rolls over you want this point to be the strongest because that's right above the driver's head we've got that we've got the down tubes we can also put a brace across the back between the shock Towers coming up here we've got door bars you can have an X style Door bar you can have what's called NASCAR bars which are usually two or three bars that are parallel with tubes running in between them I was looking at uh comparison between the 599 which is basically the older generation of the F12 right it's the V12 lineage they said this car was somewhere like 110 pounds lighter just in the chassis from the 599 20 something or 30 stiffer so they actually lighten the car and made a stiffer it's pretty crazy how much engineering goes into it it's not just like all right just grab some aluminum and start bending it up and build it out they really thought about where they could save the weight what material was the best in that spot and then welded it or bonded it all together it's looking good I'm happy with the first part of the roll cage one piece out of about 20 piece is for the roll cage done Tim got the 599 all back together minus the ECU so they're supposed to show up Monday morning Dave's coming back Monday morning hopefully we'll get the ecu's before it gets here the parts that we're waiting for on the F12 still stressing me out but it is what it is for the time being I can't really do anything about it we'll be working on the F12 getting the roll cage stuff done as much as possible and I hope that we'll have an update about these parts next time thank you guys for watchingwhat's up guys welcome back to another episode of daily driven Exotics behind me is the F12 completely stripped down we want to start working on the roll cage to do that first step we're going to put this thing up on jack stands I don't know seems okay for now maybe not we just won't shake it a lot yeah there we go no earthquakes guys no earthquakes so this is an aluminum chassis and a roll cage needs to be steel connecting those two is going to be quite difficult there are a lot of cars actually that have bolted in roll cages in aluminum chassis and one of them is the Evo 2 race car from Lamborghini we also have the 550 here that's a steel chassis car with the steel cage welded into it so we can take a look at those cars and I can kind of give you guys an idea of the challenges and the differences between both inch and three quarter tube boxes that are welded directly to the sheet metal floor and then the cage is welded directly to that so the cage has somewhere to go the floor pan is just a very thin piece of sheet metal so you either need a big steel plate down there which still deforms at times if the car were to roll over you can put a very very thick steel plate on top of a very thin steel plate it's going to help it out but it's not really going to stop it from moving so that's why we build these boxes on the side to where they're on a much thicker part of the chassis also it allows us to build the roll cage drop the roll cage down and weld all these top Parts because we didn't want to cut the roof off so sometimes you will actually cut the entire roof skin off of a car and that makes welding everything up top really easy we don't have a carbon fiber roof for this car no one makes one we decided to just make these boxes to where we can drop it and move it around here is the Huracan aluminum chassis Factory Evo 2 race car steel roll cage that is bolted in you can see there's the bolts here and there's a steel plate down there and then there's an aluminum box that they've made and raised that up you can really see how much has come off the floor it's about three inches taller and you can see in the back also those are aluminum boxes with what I'm guessing is thick piece of aluminum that's threaded I'm not sure how we're going to do it yet if we're going to do a threaded aluminum or if we're actually going to make a steel plate that's threaded underneath and rivet it in so we'll have an aluminum piece Steel on the bottom and kind of sandwich the two and I think that could actually create a very strong connection point between the cage and the chassis Dave what's happening listen to me well what I need is the 599 for a retune get slightly more power the audience wants me to drive on road trips with weird people old Ferraris that look stock titles squash of course the AC isn't cold enough pause the build can we just do that tomorrow you're serious you want us to drop everything on the F12 get the ecu's out change the motor mounts yeah no worries see you soon well that changes everything he wants us to overnight these ecu's to eag so he can have them back when he gets back on Monday it's Thursday it's like two almost three o'clock right now we don't have a lot of time we got to get them out Next Day Air why don't you pull the ecu's out we can't drive it anymore obviously so I want to line it up and get it really close we just have to push it straight instead of rolling it and trying to crank the steering wheel and all that so I saw that there was fuel spilling out of the gas door and I popped it open there's a 20 bill in there you mean it was completely empty and there's nothing there I put that money there so that it would be interesting when I opened it exactly that's what happened foreign there that's probably why I was spilling out yeah what do you think it would cost from Ferrari probably like 80 bucks or something no it's got to be like 500 it's aluminum with a Ferrari logo oh yeah that's true yeah I'll have to call Ferrari and find out how much one of these are we'll take two Dave will take you so it's already marked because it's a passenger ECU and do we need any I need to take it out or not I think it just slides in that's easy enough okay well there's one second ECU is out I think I might actually fit in that box this is from eag let's see what they sent us all right a Ferrari party all right I don't think anybody makes these aftermarkets interesting like it's all squishy hydraulic rubber mount so this one has a stud on it we got to get these ecu's off to get them shipped out overnighted stick them in this box securely oh you've been summoned okay ready let's go all right you ready no but let's do it come on we gotta go man this is this old Ferrari alarm system is such a pain come on dude we gotta go we got 10 minutes to get it over there before we can't get it to beag all right let's go there you go made it shipped successfully 123 dollars to get it there tomorrow before noon now it's up to the shipping company to get it there on time we can work on the 599 hopefully that'll be quick then we can actually get started on the f-12 this thing looks so good dude it looks so sick I love this car needs a bit of a wash though it is very dirty I think all the cars in the shop are in need of a wash yeah oh this thing sounds so such a cool car no we don't need it it's decorational just go like this yeah that's the best horn yes well 8 000 RPM V12 revoluter oh wow we are back going up what's going on with this thing I don't really know Dave said he had problems with it but he didn't really explain to me I'm on like a group chat with him and EEG and they're like did you get the parts and I'm like what part apparently they're motor mounts the trans mounts so we're gonna put this thing up in the air and figure out if we can change them do we have the tools to do it I have no idea and also this tire is destroyed Dave was doing some donuts and burnouts and all that kind of stuff so I think he had a lot of understeer here and he didn't realize it's probably just full lock going straight scrubbing those front tires off and he said that the air conditioning doesn't work in a squat portrait and somehow I'm the air conditioning repair guy now one thing at a time though see if we can change the mouse on this thing motor mount one it's not popped yet it's still still Squishy in there the guys at eag said that they were toast and looking at this how much it's pushed down the new Factory Mount is completely flat I'm guessing that this whole thing has kind of sunk down in here and that's what's making this like hydraulic portion of it push out that header is going to make it really difficult bolt is right here about a half inch away from that tube I can't get a wrench in here this way and it's going to be really short range this way so if it's tight it's going to be an absolute nightmare let's check the trans mounts see if they're doable those are a little bit more accessible yeah but we have to drop this whole cross member and that means we have to take the exhaust off also this is not that fun we need a under hoist Jack the 10th Harbor Freight trip that you guys made in like two days do they have like a membership or a punch card could we get like free frozen yogurt over there or something like that cookies some cookies candy some Harbor Freight cookies yeah we got our under hoist Jack and we managed to pull out one of the engine mounts that's the old one that's all bulged out on the bottom that's the new one and you can also see the difference in the height there this one has sunken down quite a bit and this is the new mount it is extremely tight in here no matter what but especially with these headers this is where the mount goes that's the bolt that bolts into the mount you can see how tight that is it barely moves up enough to get flush to get the mount out it was super hard to get a wrench in there and the pry bar to basically crack that nut loose this side is even worse so we've got the dry sump lines on this side and the headers are even tighter over here there's so much stuff we can't get a wrench on this side really the only option is to remove the header there's no other way around it and we have to take off the center section of the exhaust to get the transmission mounts changed so it's going to take a while six or seven hour job but like Dave said cars got to get done there's some issues with getting the header back on this side the studs aren't staying in the head some of the studs had come out of the head and the nuts stuck on them so we're gonna try to run a tap through there and clean up that hole and hopefully we'll be able to get it all back together quickly there we go that's much better so you can see how some of the nuts are like corroded and stuck onto the studs and some of the studs stayed in the head as they're supposed to hopefully we won't have to pull this header off anymore working on the F12 now yeah I know finally right we've had some big Parts delays that is holding me up a bit ideally I would have the transmission right now and I would be fitting it in the car because I don't know if it's actually going to fit the factory F12 has the transmission in the bathroom it's got quite a long bell housing but it kind of tapers down it's a big cone where the drive shaft comes out of in this area it's very small and where the new transmission that we are going to put in the car is very large we may have to cut the transmission tunnel out of the car and remake a whole new transmission tunnel from scratch which is going to be a huge Challenge and I wanted to do that first before we started putting any roll cage tubes in the car because once you have all these tubes in place it just makes it harder to work on the interior of the car the transmission is not here three weeks passed when it was supposed to be delivered I've already paid in full on my credit card not on the DDE cards twenty thousand dollars is a huge component of this car a car will not work without it stressed out about that we just need to start on the roll cage and at least start figuring out where the main hoop is going to go and start bending that up just so we can continue to make progress before these other parts show up now that we've completely torn the car apart like bear chassis we don't have the issue with the diff hitting the fuel tank anymore so that's solved but now we have to figure out where a fuel cell is going to go I wanted to put it up here on this shelf where the factory tank was basically with a shorter cell that would fit in here and not drop too far down and hit the drive shaft but there's a brace in here it looks like a pretty important piece for the rear suspension to keep this tight in there's a brace that goes back here and I did not see that brace until we pulled the tank out but there's another two inch or two and a half inch wide by one inch wide aluminum brace that goes across there there's only about this much room in between those two braces that's not enough room for a cell in the front there it's going to be really tight if we can find a pre-made fuel cell that will fit there possibly to get the weight more centralized in the car the easiest way to do it is obviously drop a fuel cell down here this is going to be all open but it does put the weight in the back of the car and that changes how the car drives all this weight hanging off the back of the car you start using up fuel well now the weight balance is changing more to the center of the car more to the front of the car as the fuel gets burned off so having it centralized helps that quite a bit I also know that you guys had some good comments about issues we were having with the diff and you were saying we could take those end caps and flip them upside down that's a really good idea but I'll show you why that won't work here's the differential it's a quick change differential and you can see there's some castings here so this side is castings but nothing has been drilled or tapped through there but on this side this is a very important part right here this is actually a pin and on the end of it I think is a brass plug or something like that the ring gear inside of here has so much force being put against it by the pinion gear so basically it's a big round ear and a small gear that comes in sideways that turns this ring and pinion as this turns it tries to separate the gears it tries to push them apart and when that happens is you get loose in between the teeth and that causes teeth to break bad wear this basically pushes that ring gear against the pinion and doesn't let it Flex to be able to handle a lot of power this is really important in that spot because that's where the pinion gear is so if we did rotate this upside down that would solve our mounting issues we'd have the mounts on the bottom and it would be easy to make them out for it in the subframe but unfortunately you can't rotate them they have to stay like this and if you flipped it upside down now instead of the drive shaft coming in through the bottom the drive shaft will be coming in through the top that wouldn't work either that would mean our transmission and our differential very very different planes we'd have huge drive shaft angles plus we'd have to chop a bunch out of the transmission tunnel to make it all fit that's just not going to work this is not roll piece tubing this is thin wall we're going to use this to make a template to build our proper main hoop out of this is cheap stuff it's easy to work with it's quick to bend it's quick to cut most rule books state that you can only have four bends in the main hoop that's going to be a bend in this area and a bend in this area so it's gonna be a straight bar across the top we're going to try to get it as tight as possible to the roof allowing a tube to come down the back and all the other tubes that have to be connected to the main hoop which is really the main component of the roll cage the main hoop ties everything together crucial piece to get right and to fit properly so everything else can line up I've got this angle ruler here and it is super handy so tell me how many degrees the band is and I'm just going to put this up here see what my best guess is of what's going to fit there so 150 so it's about 30 degrees bench looks like it might not be enough it might hit there first we might need a little bit more five degrees that looks pretty good I'm going to bend a piece of tubing and see how it fits and add or remove angle from it to get it to fit how I want all right all right so we're starting the bend starting at 40 degrees I'll go look at my measurement that I had and figure out what it's going to be at the end and then we'll bend the tuba you can see this tube and how deformed it is so you have the wrinkles on the inside because basically it's trying to push the material in and then on the outside you've got this flat spot because it's stretching the material out and it's so thin just collapsing this is not the material we're using for the roll cage it's just for the templates this is just going to give us a quick idea of what to bend the real tube at it's going to sit somewhere around there this is hitting when we do a bend for here we'll have to cut a section of this tube off and I think that where we're going to start bending it and where it's going to land is going to be really tight there it's going to be good and it's not going to make contact so I'm going to leave this piece alone for now Bend this other piece and then see how both of them fit together for pretty much every race series they want a 180 degree Bend basically meaning both of these tubes are going to be vertical plus or minus 10 degrees all right it's looking pretty good Mark this tube and cut a section off of it so I can connect these two tubes together then I'm going to confirm that I can get a tube to basically land in the center of this joint and go back and down for the rear stays we get it up too high the tube won't fit in here it's going to hit a bunch of the chassis and I don't want to cut too much of this out I might Barrel sand a little bit for a little bit of clearance but I don't want to do too much we want that to be as tight as possible as high as possible but that tube's got to fit make a quick mark on here cut this tube tack all them together and then I'll fit it in again I have not used this MIG welder before I've heard it was pretty good I'm gonna try it out that looks pretty decent for a 700 welder turn a couple knobs turned it on and it's working pack these pieces together and fit this gauge mock-up in the car well it's tacked let's go fit it in the car and see if it fits thank you that looks pretty good I'm gonna grab another piece of tubing and just make sure that it's going to fit on the back there at the angle that I want it to if that's the case then we can actually transfer this over to proper piece of tubing Bend out the real part so I'm going to do a quick notch on this tube using the same size hole saw as the tube so it's inch and three quarter tube and Notch it out just to help it fit a little bit better just to confirm that our main hoop is in the exact right spot I could just take the square end of the tube and put it up against there and have a decent idea but it takes a few seconds to cut this with a notcher and we can really confirm that it'll fit as tight as I want it to to help me make sure I get this tube straight I want to make sure it's not Twisted at all so I know that the bends are going to work and I'll check and make sure that the car is sitting flat we're good there with zero to point one take this put this in there see which way I need to go with it that's level and our bends are looking pretty good though we might actually put a little bit more Bend in this leg and bring it in attach it we can get this a little tighter up here we're hitting down here and that's holding the tube a little bit farther away from that corner than I want foreign so that's a little bit too tight so we're gonna have to come down a touch to get this tube to fit in here the notch actually looks really perfect just a small change on the angle of the main hoop well I had a couple degrees to that and I think we'll be good to go let me put it in the car and see how it looks I think that's too much you kicked it over way too far around zero there but this is just too far in I want it to land about an inch over there so we'll take a little Bend out of this one careful all right so yeah we took two and a half degrees out of that bend see how it looks in the car so I think I'm happy with that we should be good with our tube here yeah we're good now I need to Mark the exact center so I'll measure the car and measure the center of the roof and make a mark and then I can put a mark in the middle of the tube and then I'll have half the distance of the main hoop and just be able to double that and then bend up the actual tube so 58 inches and we will double it geez Mike how long is this thing uh 22 feet how did you get that door did you get it delivered did you take it in the truck I'm gonna cut that tube with a Sawzall because it's just too big to manage at 22 feet I'll make a rough cut with a Sawzall and then we clean it up and we chops off kind of use for the forklift tires nice someone's gonna comment about how good of a job I'm doing cleaning this tube I'm sure so back over at the 599 Tim needs some help with the Trans amounts and now I see why very difficult to get off it is super tight 27 millimeter nut up on top there's not much room so we pulled the back brace off as well as the transmission mount brace both those are gone and the transmission is about two inches lower than it normally sits in the car still doesn't want to come off it's like no room to get any leverage here so we've got the biggest half inch wrench we can fit into the car there's no way to crack it Loose go back to the pry bar and see if we can get it off of that oh that's gonna slip so now we're basically sitting on the axles that we cannot come down anymore I don't think it's going to work through that there's enough angle in it but I don't think there is no I thought this was supposed to be easy it's a good thing we're doing it after we uh after the transmission was out of the car last week well this side came at least we have a little bit more room on this side and they're not got a quarter turn there foreign make a roll cage grab my tube marked up where the bends are which side of the line I'm going to bend on so I don't mix that up hopefully I'll get it right and not have to do this again and not waste a piece of tubing this tube is going to have a bit more spring back so I'm going to bend this one and adjust it to basically get it to the 55 degrees figure out if it's three or four or five degrees over bent to basically spring back to 55 degrees so I'll check that on this one and then I can replicate it on the other side I'm looking at this tube and this tube and how much is coming back before this tube starts to shift as well barely loading it in the machine so there's not any extra pressure on it showing that it has more Bend when it actually doesn't that looks like we're within a half a degree we should be good there so we will bend the other one the same basically to 99 degrees is what we bent this so bend the other one the same all right so we're going to double check our pattern onto the tube that we just bent so I've got my Center Line Mark here and I've got a center line on here lay this out and see how it's looking it looks like we are a bit wider than I had intended so I can adjust that I can basically move this Center Line Mark and move those over so we don't have the tube that ends up too wide so I'll make a couple adjustments remark that side and then we'll be able to it up all right so I'm going to use the angle finder here also to make sure that both of these bends are on the same plane so we don't end up with legs that are crooked everything goes well this thing will drop right in the car and fit nice and tight if it doesn't well this is gonna become a piece of scrap metal and we'll have to start over again and figure out what I did wrong double checking that the bends match up nice and tight those look good so we'll move on Bend our other two bends and have a main hook oh foreign lays right over the top of it obviously this has a bunch of creases and weird stuff in it but both of the legs are lined up looks good so we'll open the other side do a test fit all right last one is bent let's see how it fits in the car that's looking pretty good the legs are quite a bit longer than I need a whole lot easier to have extra tubing at the end and slowly trim it off to fit as tight as you would want it these bends are looking good it's a bit high right now so it'll come down just a touch after we trim these legs and Pull It in a little bit so what are all the pieces to the roll cage standard six point roll cage is a main hoop and then so each of these would be one two points the two that come from here to the back so another two points and then we've got one that runs next to the driver's head down to the floor over here two points making it a six point cage but then inside of there you would have a diagonal that would come from the passenger floor basically and go up to the points right above the driver's head you've got a harness bar that's going to go across the middle and the harness bar is going to be two pieces the diagonal bar will be one piece because that's the strongest and if the car rolls over you want this point to be the strongest because that's right above the driver's head we've got that we've got the down tubes we can also put a brace across the back between the shock Towers coming up here we've got door bars you can have an X style Door bar you can have what's called NASCAR bars which are usually two or three bars that are parallel with tubes running in between them I was looking at uh comparison between the 599 which is basically the older generation of the F12 right it's the V12 lineage they said this car was somewhere like 110 pounds lighter just in the chassis from the 599 20 something or 30 stiffer so they actually lighten the car and made a stiffer it's pretty crazy how much engineering goes into it it's not just like all right just grab some aluminum and start bending it up and build it out they really thought about where they could save the weight what material was the best in that spot and then welded it or bonded it all together it's looking good I'm happy with the first part of the roll cage one piece out of about 20 piece is for the roll cage done Tim got the 599 all back together minus the ECU so they're supposed to show up Monday morning Dave's coming back Monday morning hopefully we'll get the ecu's before it gets here the parts that we're waiting for on the F12 still stressing me out but it is what it is for the time being I can't really do anything about it we'll be working on the F12 getting the roll cage stuff done as much as possible and I hope that we'll have an update about these parts next time thank you guys for watching\n"