The Importance of Proper Bike Fitting: A Comprehensive Approach

As cyclists continue to push the limits of human endurance and performance, it's essential to consider every aspect of their riding experience. One crucial factor often overlooked is proper bike fitting. In this article, we'll delve into the world of bike fitting and explore the intricacies involved in creating a customized riding position that maximizes comfort, efficiency, and overall performance.

The Science Behind Bike Fitting

Bike fitting is not just about adjusting the saddle height or handlebar position; it's an art that requires a deep understanding of human anatomy and biomechanics. When we ride our bikes, our bodies undergo complex movements that involve multiple joints and muscle groups. The goal of bike fitting is to optimize these movements by creating a riding position that reduces fatigue, improves efficiency, and enhances overall performance.

In this particular session, the rider's legs were being used extensively, resulting in increased tension in the shoulders and core muscles. To alleviate this tension, the bar width was adjusted to reduce the amount of core use, allowing the shoulders to take on more pressure while minimizing fatiguation. The drops on the handlebars also played a crucial role in reducing hip flexion and creating a more comfortable riding position.

The Impact of Handlebar Positioning

The positioning of the handlebars can have a significant impact on a rider's comfort and performance. When we ride with our hands at shoulder height, it allows us to maintain proper posture and reduces pressure on the shoulders and core muscles. In this session, the bar width was adjusted to provide a comfortable position for the rider's hands, reducing tension in the arms and shoulders.

The Role of Core Engagement

Core engagement is critical when it comes to bike riding. The core muscles play a vital role in maintaining proper posture and stability, which in turn affects the overall efficiency of the ride. When we engage our cores, we can maintain better control over the bike, reduce fatigue, and improve our overall performance.

In this session, the reduction in core engagement resulted in increased tension in the shoulders. However, by reducing the amount of pressure on the core muscles, we were able to create a more comfortable riding position that reduced fatiguation.

The Benefits of Proper Bike Fitting

Proper bike fitting can have a profound impact on a rider's comfort and performance. By creating a customized riding position that reduces fatigue, improves efficiency, and enhances overall performance, riders can enjoy improved climbing, descending, and overall endurance capabilities.

One of the most significant benefits of proper bike fitting is the reduction in discomfort and pain associated with poor posture or inadequate support. When we ride with our bodies properly aligned and supported, we can reduce pressure on our muscles and joints, resulting in a more enjoyable riding experience.

The Future of Bike Fitting

As technology continues to evolve, so too will the field of bike fitting. With advancements in computer-aided design and manufacturing, manufacturers are now able to create custom-fit bikes that cater to individual rider preferences and needs.

In this session, we explored the importance of proper bike fitting and delved into the intricacies involved in creating a customized riding position that maximizes comfort, efficiency, and overall performance. By understanding the science behind bike fitting and embracing the latest technologies, riders can enjoy improved comfort, performance, and overall endurance capabilities.

The Journey to Custom Fit

As we move forward in our journey to create the perfect custom fit bike, it's essential to consider every aspect of the riding experience. From the crank arm length to the bar width, each component plays a critical role in creating a comfortable, efficient, and high-performance riding position.

In this session, we explored the importance of adjusting the handlebar position to reduce pressure on the shoulders and core muscles. We also discussed the benefits of using drops to reduce hip flexion and create a more comfortable riding position.

The Significance of Componentry

Componentry plays a critical role in determining the overall performance and comfort of a bike. The right componentry can make all the difference between a enjoyable ride and one that's filled with discomfort and fatigue.

As we move forward, we'll be exploring some exciting new technologies and components that will help us create a truly custom-fit bike. From advanced handlebar designs to cutting-edge crank arm lengths, every detail matters when it comes to creating a comfortable, efficient, and high-performance riding position.

The Importance of Adjustments

Proper bike fitting requires careful adjustments to ensure that the rider's body is properly supported and aligned. This includes adjusting the saddle height, handlebar position, and crank arm length to create a customized riding position that maximizes comfort, efficiency, and overall performance.

In this session, we explored the importance of making precise adjustments to achieve optimal fit. By understanding the intricacies involved in bike fitting and embracing the latest technologies, riders can enjoy improved comfort, performance, and overall endurance capabilities.

Conclusion

Proper bike fitting is an art that requires a deep understanding of human anatomy and biomechanics. By creating a customized riding position that reduces fatigue, improves efficiency, and enhances overall performance, riders can enjoy improved comfort, performance, and overall endurance capabilities.

As we move forward in our journey to create the perfect custom-fit bike, it's essential to consider every aspect of the riding experience. From the crank arm length to the bar width, each component plays a critical role in creating a comfortable, efficient, and high-performance riding position. By embracing the latest technologies and understanding the science behind bike fitting, riders can enjoy improved comfort, performance, and overall endurance capabilities.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhey guys and welcome to petrol pet and welcome to cycle sunday now then guys welcome back to cycle sunday i am here again at criterium cycles in edinburgh paul welcome back my friend thank you very much indeed now then hopefully by now you've tuned in to the previous two episodes of cycle sunday and you will know what we are up to we are building my dream road bike and having a lot of fun doing it it's like a kid in a candy shop is unbelievable so much carbon fiber and bling it's unbelievable yeah so we have already um chosen the frame size we have we've chosen the frame bike itself so we're going for a bianchi yep ultra xr4 in celeste blue yes um very very cool uh and we've also done a video around what i didn't realize was how important was basically selecting the right shoe yes the right cleat system and the right pedal and how that is the datum for what we're about to do and in in the last video we talked about the basics of a bike fit but today we're getting on the jig and we're doing a proper bike fit we are now we this is a long process it's like an hour and a half to two hours so clearly we're not gonna make this video two hours long so there are a few shortcuts a few things so the first thing we've done already is we've taken my lovely new shoes which are just awesome and incidentally yes match your house i know it was a complete so i'm obviously in full-on lycra i'm very proudly wearing my club de sangle du mont von two sure which you have to get one of these you have to cycle at month on two three times in a day well done yeah i know it's well done for some epic day on the bike um so yeah so we've taken the shoe and we've already fitted the cleat now when i fitted the cleats on my current shoes i basically went yeah square and then screwed them on oh wow how wrong i was it's an option yeah so we've basically i mean i'll put some b-roll over now we've measured uh where the metatarsal bone is so that's this bone here and we've measured um where the cleat is in relation to that and yeah also looked at where my feet stand naturally as i'm stood up natural foot gate we've done the rotation we've done the lateral movement of it that's like 20 minutes half an hour just to get the cleat in the right place yeah but they are now in the right place yes which is most excellent um and now the next thing we're going to do is handle bars we are with we are yes because before we get on to the jig uh as we've said previously it's absolutely imperative that the things that are going to go the contact points that are going to go onto the bike are measured correctly otherwise it's not the proper fit yeah so the saddle that's going to be going on to the bike is fitted to the jig the pedals that's going to be going onto the bike is fitted to the gear on already they're all ready the shoes they're going to be fitted to your feet so those datum points are correct and the final piece to that puzzle is the handlebar right so the other thing to point out up until now we have been able to maintain a social distance in covid times and we're following very strict covet guidelines making these videos otherwise we wouldn't be allowed to make them in the first place sadly though with this particular video we are going to have to come into closer contact so it's masks on people and if you've got a problem with that it's your problem not ours basically if i was a customer coming into your shop i would have to wear one of these to be able to have a bike fit yeah we really care yeah yeah so it's super important so we will be wearing masks um but i think everybody understands that now so uh let's have a chat about handlebars indeed okay so um the actual selection process we've done some work off camera already in terms of the bars we know the bars that are right for me but what we wanted to do was demonstrate on camera uh a bar that's too wide a bar that's too narrow and a goldilocks bar which is just right so should we start too wide yeah so because this is actually the width of the bar that i've got on my current bike that's correct um that's correct and what we're looking at here is the width of the end of the clavicle which is this bone here and where the center line of the wrist is we can see that um this is much further out so peter at the moment is a-framing so we've got an a-frame position so after a very um after on a longer ride what's going to happen is is that this little muscle group here is going to start fatiguing and the torso is going to start falling through the shoulders and it's going to put more pressure up into the neck and making it very very uncomfortable okay yeah so they're too wide they're too okay now we've got too narrow yep so this is like yeah yeah it instantly feels wrong far too narrow and in terms of what you're feeling right now it will feel constrictive in the chest you won't feel so you can open the chest just not correct yeah yeah okay so the size we've gone for and we've even got the hoods ready to go on the jig on this one yeah so again what we're looking at is we've got the wrist nicely centered into into the hood part here which is measured up nicely with uh the clavicle fundamentally though how does that feel it feels spot on yeah absolutely should feel natural yeah yeah and i guess like you were saying to me before it's worth noting that different manufacturers measure bars in different ways they do and these aren't the bars that are going on the bike but you know how to convert these measurements into the measurements of the bar we need to go on the bike absolutely but this is what goes on your jig that's what goes on the jig okay so before i put my shoes on uh what paul's got to do now apart from putting the handlebars on the bike is he's put my measurements and the bike frame size into the computer and the computer has given him a basic setup for this incredible jig which looks like it cost lots of money but i guess it's important to say you were saying before you don't ha if you haven't got a jig like this it doesn't mean you can't do a bike fit a lot of places will do a bike fit on your bike on a turbo trainer yeah and in fact that's what happened when i when i did mine with my venge and it's what happened here for six years before we were in a privileged position to bowl exactly yes but the advantage that this jig has is that paul can make adjustments in real time and i'll be able to feel those so the the the whole process we're about to go through is quite a lengthy one so we're going to try and summarize it without dumbing it down because there's some really interesting stuff goes on the first thing we're going to look at is effectively if you like setting up the bike from my hips downwards and if you saw the previous video we talked a little bit about this so that's going to include the seat position in terms of height in terms of fore and aft position and also in terms of its position above the cranks down there so that should get and actually the crank length as well that should get this bottom half of my um my body oh mate that's just too cool should get the bottom half of my body just set up perfectly and then we can work on the front end of the bike in terms of handlebar height and reach and that's really dealing with the top part of my body and so paul's just dialing everything in and then once we get on the bike we can start to see if this if you like generic basic setup is right for me um is that saddle doesn't look high enough surely it's not and if anybody wants to know if peter's got long legs or not this was a normal person a normal person who was fitted last time okay everybody just watch what happens when we fit for peter that's quite high right then i'm gonna get my shoes on and then we'll get on this bike be all right there yeah and now what we're finally doing is we're setting up the crank arm length yeah to a nice neutral setting to where we feel it's going to be a good start point because ultimately at the end of this process once you've once you've fitted that so that i feel great on the bike you then feed those measurements back into the computer and it tells you what the crank arm might need to have ordered for the bike the correct specification for the handlebars you know the bike builder will know how high the seat needs to go and everything so that that's it it's ready for me yeah absolutely yeah because all of those i guess we can't stick my bike on a turbo trainer because it's in that box and more than that it's because it's not off the peg so if we had a bike on our shelf at the moment we felt was going to be appropriate for you we can then put it on the turbo trainer you can be pedaling that bike and we can make adjustments for it no problem at all but because we're actually building this bike from the components up we do need to go through this process to make sure we're ordering the correct components for your fit yeah ryan ready to mount up ready to get on so i'm guessing just foot into this plate here as you normally clip in and then bad news mate i tell you now i don't think this saddle's high enough you know you're absolutely right yeah yeah yeah even without spinning a spin in a crank no no you're absolutely right so what we're looking to do is we need to get you um fitted now so what we did off camera was we did a couple of flexibility tests with peter because the a saddle height for an individual is very very much based on an individual's flexibility and it's a constantly moving target so there's a couple of things that we need to understand first of all number one is where your actual maximum leg extension comes into effect and a lot of folk thinks that their maximum leg extension is when the crank arm is vertical it's not that's actually on the way back up to the top again your maximum leg extension comes when the crank arm is in line with the seat post of the bike and that means that the greater trochanter which is the center of the hip socket is at the furthest distance from the center of the pedal spindle so that is our maximum leg extension at that point it's also important to know at the correct foot position because we're riding a bike not a horse mate see i spent 10 years competing at horse riding and i was constantly told to get my heels down absolutely on a bike opposite way right to be as if you're sort of walking on a two-inch heel that's the that's the best way of of thinking about it okay so with us understanding where our foot and our crank arm is at our maximum leg extension i can now look at your knee angle that we've got at the moment and we are not utilizing your maximum leg extension based on your flexibility that we did earlier so we do need to start upping that saddle height so if you want to start pedaling can't we just save myself a bit of time i know that all you do is you put your heel on the pedal and you straighten your leg yeah about 20 30 years ago oh okay yeah if you don't mind we'll do it properly okay so i start pedaling start pedaling just on the tablet here peter the upward arrow is for your gears oh cool so at this moment in time i didn't really go for those but yeah they're not connected to anything so yeah so if you just start pressing the up arrow and you'll start feeling resistance you are not on a workout i don't want you puffing and panting i don't want you sweating all i basically need for you to be is in a nice natural pedal cadence that you feel i could do this all day how many watts do you want about six seven hundred okay or maybe 130. so coming round to uh the back what i'm looking for at this moment in time is it is basically the pelvis and how stable the pelvis is and if we put our hands just on top of the iliac crest which is this part of the pelvis just here what i'm actually feeling is that as you're going over the top of the pedal stroke at the moment this side the right hand side is actually pushing over the top of the pedal stroke it's pushing the pelvis up the way we're getting no pull down on either side but what it's saying to me is the saddle is too low because as you're going over the top of the pedal stroke the hip flexor here is running out of range of motion and is then basically pushing um the pelvis up and what will happen over time is your knee will probably start rolling out slightly and that's where we see a lot of people going down the roads looking like they've got frogs legs is the saddle is just way too low so what we're going to do is we're going to start increasing the saddle height so we're going to do that first of all by around sort of 10 millimeters to here and now what i can feel is that that push has gone it feels a lot more neutral how does that feel to you loads better loads better perfect but most important i think it's it's great for a rider to understand how it feels when the saddle is too high because if you don't feel what it's like to be wrong then you you can ride along causing yourself a real injury so i'm going to crank this up what i know to be over extended by about 10 millimeters already i can feel it you can already feel it so i'm not going to do it any further and the first telltale sign is you do feel a lot more saddle pressure because the pelvis is being brought down over the side of the saddle but if again if i put my hands on top of the iliac crest here i can feel particularly on the left hand side that the pelvis is being brought down as peter's going to his maximum leg extension on the down stroke so what i can do is i can start dialing that back down again bit by bit i'm just going to double check that's feeling more neutral but we still got a little bit of pull on the left hand side so i'm just going to dial that back down again just couple more millimeters that's starting to feel more neutral but there's a little bit of pull still there and now that pulls basically gone yeah how does that feel that feels really good really really really good yeah so in terms of saddle height that is where we're going to start with yeah and the next thing that we need to do if you can stop pedaling please peter and i want you to finish with your left leg in the three o'clock position yeah you'll notice how the spirit levels oh you've got spirit levels levels uh just get those so that it is a good 90 degrees yeah and now what i've got to do is i've just got to go and grab my laser laser laser and with my laser what we're going to do is put the laser line directly through the center line of the pedal spindle so we've got the laser line directly through the center line the pedal spindle now you'll see that peter has been a very naughty boy here he's dropped his heel down so that's absolutely perfect and we're just going to make sure that that crank arm is at 90 degrees i'm just going to double check the laser line and we're not too far away what i'm looking for is this vertical line and just the underside of the patella which is this zone just here i'm wanting to make sure that that laser line is absolutely in line here so as we do a bisector line through here that's going through the center line of the knee joint and going through the center line of the pedal spindle and that's ensuring that at that main drive point at the three o'clock point of the of the of the pedal rotation that the knee is punching straight through the center line of the pedal spindle is the most efficient place yeah so i just want your saddle to go slightly further back just a couple of millimeters and there we go we've now got that knee line absolutely perfect with the pedal spindle so if you would just kindly start pedaling again how's that feeling not quite right not quite right do we know why that is it feels like the saddle's too low feels like the saddle's a little bit too low for you yeah perfect right part of the reason for that is that as we're making adjustment to the fore and aft because you're effective angle of the of the seat tube is is angled back the way yeah making adjustments forwards and backwards can also affect saddle height yeah so what we'll do i'll go round to the back again and let's have a look so putting the hands on top of the iliac crest i'm not feeling any pull whatsoever i'm just going to add a couple more millimeters of saddle height how's that feeling yeah good really good perfect excellent stuff so i'm not feeling any pull whatsoever from the pelvis there and that's looking really really nice cool so the final step to the saddle we've done saddle height we've done saddle four and aft is saddle pitch yeah now i always set the saddle absolutely flat at zero degrees to as a start point the saddle is coming the pelvis is coming into contact with the saddle in in in two fundamental places the sit bone or the ischial tuberosity and the pubic rami which is the frontal bones what i'm looking for is an equal distribution of pressure across the front and rear of your points of contact with the saddle yeah if it's feeling good yeah front to back we don't change it if you're feeling more frontal pressure we want to just drop the nose down slightly up to a maximum of about three degrees yeah if you're feeling too much pressure on the sit bone then again we want to alleviate a little bit of the um the pressure from the from the front feels good feels good so fundamentally from the hip down yeah saddle height four and a half saddle pitch we're done so now what we need to do is we now need to move to the front end of the bike and based on those positions we now need to get your back angle correct we need to get the pressure coming in through the hands neck and shoulders get your core stability set up and then we're good to transfer the information over to the computer awesome so that seat feels wicked brilliant that is absolutely fantastic that's really really great to know so as we've already said from the hip down we're sorted yeah we now need to sort the front end of the bike and the most important thing is the actual handlebar height yeah now the jig's default settings is set to have 30 millimeters of spacers underneath the handlebar stem because this bike has the coolest handlebars and cockpit ever it's amazing it's a thing of beauty it is absolutely all the cables are integrated it looks awesome yeah however that means you really have to get it right yes yeah because we want to build this bike once yeah so so it's important that we do go through this fit process when a bike has got an integrated front end so that the technician who's building it rather than just sending it out the easy way with 30 ml spacers underneath let's get it to the right handlebar height particularly when we're dealing with people who have got a good cycling experience already if somebody's new and just wanting to buy an uber high-end bike yeah we might send it out with 30ml of spacers because once we've trimmed it i can't put it back on again now it's important from a fitter's perspective to know that those 30 ml of spacers is made up by three ten mil spacers okay so there's no point me dropping the handlebars by two millimeters and saying how does that feel pete yeah because i can't fit you to that yeah so i've got to do it in 10 mil increments yeah so what does dropping the handlebar actually mean what's basically happening is is that a lot of people when they're riding a bike the first thing that they say is oh i feel weight coming in my hands so what do we want to do pete raise the handlebars razor handlebars no it doesn't always work like that yeah in some instances it might but a lot of the time it's because we're not recruiting the core stability that you have so your hands neck and shoulders is taking all of the torso weight that's pivoting from in front of the hip yeah so by dropping the handlebar down what that's going to do is it's going to bring the torso down it's going to engage the core muscles better and take pressure off the handlebar of the hands neck and shoulders which is so counterintuitive really counter-intuitive yeah however we've got to be really careful because if we just drop the torso down willy-nilly and you don't have the hip flexibility to bring your femur up into this new space that we've created yeah what's going to happen is is that it's going to feel tight and uncomfortable in the hip yeah what about my beer belly well you haven't really got one i should definitely you can come on the channel anytime you like well that's what i was hoping but no no look you're in good shape you know particularly for your age i was cutting that was so what we're going to do at this moment in time i'm looking at your back position i'm looking at your shoulder position i'm looking at your arm extension and your elbow relaxation actually it's looking pretty good okay out the box but again i ask you the question you've got enough miles in your legs now how does it feel it feels quite heavy on my hands feels a little bit heavy on your hands yeah really interesting so what i'm going to do is the first thing is drop it by 10 millimeters yeah but i'm not just gonna drop it whilst you're riding yeah i want you to recall how that feels at the moment i want you to sit up okay okay perfect i'm now going to drop it by 10 mil there we go so that's a 10 mil drop now what i want you to do is just relax the shoulders i want you to just drop down into the hoods and tell me how that feels that doesn't feel as heavy no that that's weird no and what i'm seeing as well i'm seeing a much more relaxed shoulder i'm seeing less pressure in your elbows because we've got good core recruitment yeah sit back up again i'm going to drop it by another 10. and i'm more aero let's put that to one side okay let's let's focus on the fit based on being biomechanically correct as opposed to focusing on aero okay drop back down again no this this really shouldn't how's that feel that's less heavy than than it was before that shouldn't work no now the question is whether this is nicer than the medium or the middle setting indeed so what i need to do now because for 10 minutes on the turbo trainer it might feel good yeah but an hour two hours three hours four hours five hours in yeah how's that then going to feel yeah and i've got to always remember who i'm fitting yeah i'm fitting a rider who likes to do longer endurance rides yeah because what's going to happen is when your core does end up fatiguing and collapsing then it is going to be your hands neck and shoulders and lower back that's going to take up that weight and that load of your torso yeah so i've got to make sure that i'm i'm keeping in mind not what it feels like after five minutes on the turbo but who you are as a rider as well the other thing that i want to check now because i've also noticed that your body is starting to move around on the saddle a little bit more yeah and the reason being is is because we are now running out of hip flexion so the torso's come down so far now that you going over the top of the pedal stroke is now getting to a point where you're bobbing around on the saddle yeah so your saddle pressure and saddle comfort might have deteriorated a little bit yeah yeah when you start thinking about it yeah so i've got two options number one i can set you back up and raise the saddle uh raise a handle bar by 10 millimeters yeah okay call it a day because that's easy yeah or i could even look at crank arm length ooh how's that going to affect you well your crank arm at the moment is set at 172.5 millimeters okay if i drop your crank arm length down to 170 millimeters yeah it means that i can raise your saddle because your foot at the bottom of your leg extension so the bottom of its downstroke is now two and a half millimeters higher because they're quite shorter because it cranks shorter which means i can bring your saddle up by two and a half millimeters yeah but don't forget that your crank now going over the top of the pedal stroke is two and a half millimeters lower okay so ultimately it's going to relieve five millimeters of saddle height in your over the top of the pedal stroke yeah so we could keep your hands at this height yeah if it's feeling good and let's do a crank arm adjustment and see if we can get rid of that bobbing around on the saddle because of your hip flexion and keep the saddle height the same wow okay it's a real jigsaw yeah the other thing that the people will have noticed as well is that a two and a half millimeter shorter crank length yeah it also means that at the three o'clock position oh my god right your knee over spindle's gonna change yeah so we need to adjust not only saddle height but also knee over spindle oh wow let's get that done okay so it's important that you know we do this and you know these are the things that you don't see on camera guys is the fact that once we made an adjustment pete actually has to ride the bike for a good 20 minutes off-camera just to validate this fit setting and this is the important side effect yeah yeah so i'm going to make those i'm going to get you off the bike now i'm going to get you i'm going to do those crank arms changes and then we're going to you're going to join us again back on the bike and feeling what those results are let's do it let's do it so i've now been on this bike for about 20 minutes i suppose about 20 minutes yet and what we've done we've shortened the cranks only two and a half mil yeah now instantly the engineering went hold on a minute you've reduced the pivot point the lever yeah yeah but then you quietly said you know for someone at my level it really doesn't make a huge amount of difference i just think it's important to focus more on the fit and what it's going to do to your biomechanics as opposed to two and a half millimeters of mechanical advantage what i can say is the my legs and my seat i don't i feel really comfortable i haven't had to move or squiddle around and i'm sat here on what i call my all-day pace yeah um and i've been both on the hoods yeah and actually when you come down on the drops it's really nice yeah yeah really nice and i must say peter you've got a lovely back profile yeah the shoulder profile's looking really nice the note of the turbo trainer is very flat there's no knocking noises coming from the turbo which means biomechanically you're working efficiently yeah but there's one more check one more check and one more check is to bring the height of the bars up by another 10 mil so yeah i guess putting another spacer in indeed see what that feels like yeah and then compare with this again because that this does feel good yes i guess in the back of my head there's an element of if it's too aggressive there's no turning back yeah whereas if we put another 10 ml on it i can if i want to have that 10 mil taken off the fork tube and drop it back down again you can it's a big job oh yeah because it's all integrated because it's all integrated so it's a big job but at the same token you're absolutely right once i've trimmed it off i can't put it back on again but the same token this is why we're spending so much time on the terms exactly all right right i'm going to come up you can make the change i'll keep my legs spinning yeah i didn't realize i'm going to get a workout at the same time i came here this is great you're doing absolutely amazing okay so that's a 10 mil raise back up on the saddle again okay so i feel like nice actually but it's really difficult yeah so what i'm looking at here is your shoulders now have got a little bit more tension than they have yeah because we we've now reduced the amount of core use yeah so now your shoulders have taken a little bit more of that pressure yeah however we're also by doing that we're not utilizing the core so they're not going to get as fatigued as quickly on a longer ride yeah don't forget you've still got the drops so if you do want to come down further we've got the drops to go into yeah which feel really nice which will feel really good the other thing we're saying off camera is the difference in having the right bar width is amazing and i can really feel it really really feel it um because i know when we did my stick we changed the stem but we didn't change the bars because it was going to cost a lot of money and i just couldn't afford to do that so yeah it was i didn't realize what a difference it would make yeah but it makes me different yeah it does it does i do feel heavier in my hands in this position and you will do um can we put it right down again we can put it back down again it's really difficult to commit to instantly i see we've got less tension in the elbow yeah we've got less tension in the shoulder yeah the note of the turbo trainer hasn't changed so we're not running up inside your hip flexion anymore everything's looking really really good yeah i think personally yeah if you are concerned let's run it with the extra 10 ml yeah because on a long endurance ride yeah when you're four five six hours in yeah and you are feeling tired yeah it will potentially just give you a little bit more relief yeah and you always have your drops to go into if you want to get lower yeah as opposed to going all out aggressive not only in the hoods but also in the drop yes i agree yeah i think that's a i think that's the sensible way i think yeah yeah you know i feel like i could sit here all day yeah and that that's ultimately what we're looking for and one final point on this is that um because some of your viewers will will spot this there'll be the question that's coming back that's saying well now you've raised our handle bars back up by 10 mil are you going to return to the longer crank and the and the different saddle height again and i would say no i i i think based on the flexibility in your hip flexion and how the legs are moving at the moment i want to keep that crank arm length i want to keep that positioning but still keep the handlebar high where it is yeah so that's how we've got fit we've got to fit we now need to put all of these x and y coordinates plus the crank arm length bar width into the computer and we'll print you off your fit wicking now guys i know that was a long one but there was so much good stuff in there yeah and we will be doing a podcast after this so i'll put the links below to that yeah make sure you like share and subscribe to this video i'll put all the links to criterium cycles in the description below so go and check out their website follow them on social and tune in to the next one i'm going to stop here sure gets what to eat tune into the next video because the next video for me is one i've been really excited about because we're going to choose the group set the componentry that's going to go on the bike yeah and that for me is so full of engineering and cool technology and sexy carbon fiber yeah and some really exciting things so that will be the next video on cycle sunday tune in next week at six o'clock on sunday for the next stage in my dream bike but we've gotta fit we've gotta fit and it feels magnificent and i know we're in a lucky situation that we're able to kind of build it from the components up yes but even some of the decisions the basic decisions we made today just about the the seat position seat height you can do that with any bike indeed um so yeah i hope you enjoyed that guys and we will see you on the next episode of cycle sunday but yeah i think we deserve a drink take care and ride safe ride safe youhey guys and welcome to petrol pet and welcome to cycle sunday now then guys welcome back to cycle sunday i am here again at criterium cycles in edinburgh paul welcome back my friend thank you very much indeed now then hopefully by now you've tuned in to the previous two episodes of cycle sunday and you will know what we are up to we are building my dream road bike and having a lot of fun doing it it's like a kid in a candy shop is unbelievable so much carbon fiber and bling it's unbelievable yeah so we have already um chosen the frame size we have we've chosen the frame bike itself so we're going for a bianchi yep ultra xr4 in celeste blue yes um very very cool uh and we've also done a video around what i didn't realize was how important was basically selecting the right shoe yes the right cleat system and the right pedal and how that is the datum for what we're about to do and in in the last video we talked about the basics of a bike fit but today we're getting on the jig and we're doing a proper bike fit we are now we this is a long process it's like an hour and a half to two hours so clearly we're not gonna make this video two hours long so there are a few shortcuts a few things so the first thing we've done already is we've taken my lovely new shoes which are just awesome and incidentally yes match your house i know it was a complete so i'm obviously in full-on lycra i'm very proudly wearing my club de sangle du mont von two sure which you have to get one of these you have to cycle at month on two three times in a day well done yeah i know it's well done for some epic day on the bike um so yeah so we've taken the shoe and we've already fitted the cleat now when i fitted the cleats on my current shoes i basically went yeah square and then screwed them on oh wow how wrong i was it's an option yeah so we've basically i mean i'll put some b-roll over now we've measured uh where the metatarsal bone is so that's this bone here and we've measured um where the cleat is in relation to that and yeah also looked at where my feet stand naturally as i'm stood up natural foot gate we've done the rotation we've done the lateral movement of it that's like 20 minutes half an hour just to get the cleat in the right place yeah but they are now in the right place yes which is most excellent um and now the next thing we're going to do is handle bars we are with we are yes because before we get on to the jig uh as we've said previously it's absolutely imperative that the things that are going to go the contact points that are going to go onto the bike are measured correctly otherwise it's not the proper fit yeah so the saddle that's going to be going on to the bike is fitted to the jig the pedals that's going to be going onto the bike is fitted to the gear on already they're all ready the shoes they're going to be fitted to your feet so those datum points are correct and the final piece to that puzzle is the handlebar right so the other thing to point out up until now we have been able to maintain a social distance in covid times and we're following very strict covet guidelines making these videos otherwise we wouldn't be allowed to make them in the first place sadly though with this particular video we are going to have to come into closer contact so it's masks on people and if you've got a problem with that it's your problem not ours basically if i was a customer coming into your shop i would have to wear one of these to be able to have a bike fit yeah we really care yeah yeah so it's super important so we will be wearing masks um but i think everybody understands that now so uh let's have a chat about handlebars indeed okay so um the actual selection process we've done some work off camera already in terms of the bars we know the bars that are right for me but what we wanted to do was demonstrate on camera uh a bar that's too wide a bar that's too narrow and a goldilocks bar which is just right so should we start too wide yeah so because this is actually the width of the bar that i've got on my current bike that's correct um that's correct and what we're looking at here is the width of the end of the clavicle which is this bone here and where the center line of the wrist is we can see that um this is much further out so peter at the moment is a-framing so we've got an a-frame position so after a very um after on a longer ride what's going to happen is is that this little muscle group here is going to start fatiguing and the torso is going to start falling through the shoulders and it's going to put more pressure up into the neck and making it very very uncomfortable okay yeah so they're too wide they're too okay now we've got too narrow yep so this is like yeah yeah it instantly feels wrong far too narrow and in terms of what you're feeling right now it will feel constrictive in the chest you won't feel so you can open the chest just not correct yeah yeah okay so the size we've gone for and we've even got the hoods ready to go on the jig on this one yeah so again what we're looking at is we've got the wrist nicely centered into into the hood part here which is measured up nicely with uh the clavicle fundamentally though how does that feel it feels spot on yeah absolutely should feel natural yeah yeah and i guess like you were saying to me before it's worth noting that different manufacturers measure bars in different ways they do and these aren't the bars that are going on the bike but you know how to convert these measurements into the measurements of the bar we need to go on the bike absolutely but this is what goes on your jig that's what goes on the jig okay so before i put my shoes on uh what paul's got to do now apart from putting the handlebars on the bike is he's put my measurements and the bike frame size into the computer and the computer has given him a basic setup for this incredible jig which looks like it cost lots of money but i guess it's important to say you were saying before you don't ha if you haven't got a jig like this it doesn't mean you can't do a bike fit a lot of places will do a bike fit on your bike on a turbo trainer yeah and in fact that's what happened when i when i did mine with my venge and it's what happened here for six years before we were in a privileged position to bowl exactly yes but the advantage that this jig has is that paul can make adjustments in real time and i'll be able to feel those so the the the whole process we're about to go through is quite a lengthy one so we're going to try and summarize it without dumbing it down because there's some really interesting stuff goes on the first thing we're going to look at is effectively if you like setting up the bike from my hips downwards and if you saw the previous video we talked a little bit about this so that's going to include the seat position in terms of height in terms of fore and aft position and also in terms of its position above the cranks down there so that should get and actually the crank length as well that should get this bottom half of my um my body oh mate that's just too cool should get the bottom half of my body just set up perfectly and then we can work on the front end of the bike in terms of handlebar height and reach and that's really dealing with the top part of my body and so paul's just dialing everything in and then once we get on the bike we can start to see if this if you like generic basic setup is right for me um is that saddle doesn't look high enough surely it's not and if anybody wants to know if peter's got long legs or not this was a normal person a normal person who was fitted last time okay everybody just watch what happens when we fit for peter that's quite high right then i'm gonna get my shoes on and then we'll get on this bike be all right there yeah and now what we're finally doing is we're setting up the crank arm length yeah to a nice neutral setting to where we feel it's going to be a good start point because ultimately at the end of this process once you've once you've fitted that so that i feel great on the bike you then feed those measurements back into the computer and it tells you what the crank arm might need to have ordered for the bike the correct specification for the handlebars you know the bike builder will know how high the seat needs to go and everything so that that's it it's ready for me yeah absolutely yeah because all of those i guess we can't stick my bike on a turbo trainer because it's in that box and more than that it's because it's not off the peg so if we had a bike on our shelf at the moment we felt was going to be appropriate for you we can then put it on the turbo trainer you can be pedaling that bike and we can make adjustments for it no problem at all but because we're actually building this bike from the components up we do need to go through this process to make sure we're ordering the correct components for your fit yeah ryan ready to mount up ready to get on so i'm guessing just foot into this plate here as you normally clip in and then bad news mate i tell you now i don't think this saddle's high enough you know you're absolutely right yeah yeah yeah even without spinning a spin in a crank no no you're absolutely right so what we're looking to do is we need to get you um fitted now so what we did off camera was we did a couple of flexibility tests with peter because the a saddle height for an individual is very very much based on an individual's flexibility and it's a constantly moving target so there's a couple of things that we need to understand first of all number one is where your actual maximum leg extension comes into effect and a lot of folk thinks that their maximum leg extension is when the crank arm is vertical it's not that's actually on the way back up to the top again your maximum leg extension comes when the crank arm is in line with the seat post of the bike and that means that the greater trochanter which is the center of the hip socket is at the furthest distance from the center of the pedal spindle so that is our maximum leg extension at that point it's also important to know at the correct foot position because we're riding a bike not a horse mate see i spent 10 years competing at horse riding and i was constantly told to get my heels down absolutely on a bike opposite way right to be as if you're sort of walking on a two-inch heel that's the that's the best way of of thinking about it okay so with us understanding where our foot and our crank arm is at our maximum leg extension i can now look at your knee angle that we've got at the moment and we are not utilizing your maximum leg extension based on your flexibility that we did earlier so we do need to start upping that saddle height so if you want to start pedaling can't we just save myself a bit of time i know that all you do is you put your heel on the pedal and you straighten your leg yeah about 20 30 years ago oh okay yeah if you don't mind we'll do it properly okay so i start pedaling start pedaling just on the tablet here peter the upward arrow is for your gears oh cool so at this moment in time i didn't really go for those but yeah they're not connected to anything so yeah so if you just start pressing the up arrow and you'll start feeling resistance you are not on a workout i don't want you puffing and panting i don't want you sweating all i basically need for you to be is in a nice natural pedal cadence that you feel i could do this all day how many watts do you want about six seven hundred okay or maybe 130. so coming round to uh the back what i'm looking for at this moment in time is it is basically the pelvis and how stable the pelvis is and if we put our hands just on top of the iliac crest which is this part of the pelvis just here what i'm actually feeling is that as you're going over the top of the pedal stroke at the moment this side the right hand side is actually pushing over the top of the pedal stroke it's pushing the pelvis up the way we're getting no pull down on either side but what it's saying to me is the saddle is too low because as you're going over the top of the pedal stroke the hip flexor here is running out of range of motion and is then basically pushing um the pelvis up and what will happen over time is your knee will probably start rolling out slightly and that's where we see a lot of people going down the roads looking like they've got frogs legs is the saddle is just way too low so what we're going to do is we're going to start increasing the saddle height so we're going to do that first of all by around sort of 10 millimeters to here and now what i can feel is that that push has gone it feels a lot more neutral how does that feel to you loads better loads better perfect but most important i think it's it's great for a rider to understand how it feels when the saddle is too high because if you don't feel what it's like to be wrong then you you can ride along causing yourself a real injury so i'm going to crank this up what i know to be over extended by about 10 millimeters already i can feel it you can already feel it so i'm not going to do it any further and the first telltale sign is you do feel a lot more saddle pressure because the pelvis is being brought down over the side of the saddle but if again if i put my hands on top of the iliac crest here i can feel particularly on the left hand side that the pelvis is being brought down as peter's going to his maximum leg extension on the down stroke so what i can do is i can start dialing that back down again bit by bit i'm just going to double check that's feeling more neutral but we still got a little bit of pull on the left hand side so i'm just going to dial that back down again just couple more millimeters that's starting to feel more neutral but there's a little bit of pull still there and now that pulls basically gone yeah how does that feel that feels really good really really really good yeah so in terms of saddle height that is where we're going to start with yeah and the next thing that we need to do if you can stop pedaling please peter and i want you to finish with your left leg in the three o'clock position yeah you'll notice how the spirit levels oh you've got spirit levels levels uh just get those so that it is a good 90 degrees yeah and now what i've got to do is i've just got to go and grab my laser laser laser and with my laser what we're going to do is put the laser line directly through the center line of the pedal spindle so we've got the laser line directly through the center line the pedal spindle now you'll see that peter has been a very naughty boy here he's dropped his heel down so that's absolutely perfect and we're just going to make sure that that crank arm is at 90 degrees i'm just going to double check the laser line and we're not too far away what i'm looking for is this vertical line and just the underside of the patella which is this zone just here i'm wanting to make sure that that laser line is absolutely in line here so as we do a bisector line through here that's going through the center line of the knee joint and going through the center line of the pedal spindle and that's ensuring that at that main drive point at the three o'clock point of the of the of the pedal rotation that the knee is punching straight through the center line of the pedal spindle is the most efficient place yeah so i just want your saddle to go slightly further back just a couple of millimeters and there we go we've now got that knee line absolutely perfect with the pedal spindle so if you would just kindly start pedaling again how's that feeling not quite right not quite right do we know why that is it feels like the saddle's too low feels like the saddle's a little bit too low for you yeah perfect right part of the reason for that is that as we're making adjustment to the fore and aft because you're effective angle of the of the seat tube is is angled back the way yeah making adjustments forwards and backwards can also affect saddle height yeah so what we'll do i'll go round to the back again and let's have a look so putting the hands on top of the iliac crest i'm not feeling any pull whatsoever i'm just going to add a couple more millimeters of saddle height how's that feeling yeah good really good perfect excellent stuff so i'm not feeling any pull whatsoever from the pelvis there and that's looking really really nice cool so the final step to the saddle we've done saddle height we've done saddle four and aft is saddle pitch yeah now i always set the saddle absolutely flat at zero degrees to as a start point the saddle is coming the pelvis is coming into contact with the saddle in in in two fundamental places the sit bone or the ischial tuberosity and the pubic rami which is the frontal bones what i'm looking for is an equal distribution of pressure across the front and rear of your points of contact with the saddle yeah if it's feeling good yeah front to back we don't change it if you're feeling more frontal pressure we want to just drop the nose down slightly up to a maximum of about three degrees yeah if you're feeling too much pressure on the sit bone then again we want to alleviate a little bit of the um the pressure from the from the front feels good feels good so fundamentally from the hip down yeah saddle height four and a half saddle pitch we're done so now what we need to do is we now need to move to the front end of the bike and based on those positions we now need to get your back angle correct we need to get the pressure coming in through the hands neck and shoulders get your core stability set up and then we're good to transfer the information over to the computer awesome so that seat feels wicked brilliant that is absolutely fantastic that's really really great to know so as we've already said from the hip down we're sorted yeah we now need to sort the front end of the bike and the most important thing is the actual handlebar height yeah now the jig's default settings is set to have 30 millimeters of spacers underneath the handlebar stem because this bike has the coolest handlebars and cockpit ever it's amazing it's a thing of beauty it is absolutely all the cables are integrated it looks awesome yeah however that means you really have to get it right yes yeah because we want to build this bike once yeah so so it's important that we do go through this fit process when a bike has got an integrated front end so that the technician who's building it rather than just sending it out the easy way with 30 ml spacers underneath let's get it to the right handlebar height particularly when we're dealing with people who have got a good cycling experience already if somebody's new and just wanting to buy an uber high-end bike yeah we might send it out with 30ml of spacers because once we've trimmed it i can't put it back on again now it's important from a fitter's perspective to know that those 30 ml of spacers is made up by three ten mil spacers okay so there's no point me dropping the handlebars by two millimeters and saying how does that feel pete yeah because i can't fit you to that yeah so i've got to do it in 10 mil increments yeah so what does dropping the handlebar actually mean what's basically happening is is that a lot of people when they're riding a bike the first thing that they say is oh i feel weight coming in my hands so what do we want to do pete raise the handlebars razor handlebars no it doesn't always work like that yeah in some instances it might but a lot of the time it's because we're not recruiting the core stability that you have so your hands neck and shoulders is taking all of the torso weight that's pivoting from in front of the hip yeah so by dropping the handlebar down what that's going to do is it's going to bring the torso down it's going to engage the core muscles better and take pressure off the handlebar of the hands neck and shoulders which is so counterintuitive really counter-intuitive yeah however we've got to be really careful because if we just drop the torso down willy-nilly and you don't have the hip flexibility to bring your femur up into this new space that we've created yeah what's going to happen is is that it's going to feel tight and uncomfortable in the hip yeah what about my beer belly well you haven't really got one i should definitely you can come on the channel anytime you like well that's what i was hoping but no no look you're in good shape you know particularly for your age i was cutting that was so what we're going to do at this moment in time i'm looking at your back position i'm looking at your shoulder position i'm looking at your arm extension and your elbow relaxation actually it's looking pretty good okay out the box but again i ask you the question you've got enough miles in your legs now how does it feel it feels quite heavy on my hands feels a little bit heavy on your hands yeah really interesting so what i'm going to do is the first thing is drop it by 10 millimeters yeah but i'm not just gonna drop it whilst you're riding yeah i want you to recall how that feels at the moment i want you to sit up okay okay perfect i'm now going to drop it by 10 mil there we go so that's a 10 mil drop now what i want you to do is just relax the shoulders i want you to just drop down into the hoods and tell me how that feels that doesn't feel as heavy no that that's weird no and what i'm seeing as well i'm seeing a much more relaxed shoulder i'm seeing less pressure in your elbows because we've got good core recruitment yeah sit back up again i'm going to drop it by another 10. and i'm more aero let's put that to one side okay let's let's focus on the fit based on being biomechanically correct as opposed to focusing on aero okay drop back down again no this this really shouldn't how's that feel that's less heavy than than it was before that shouldn't work no now the question is whether this is nicer than the medium or the middle setting indeed so what i need to do now because for 10 minutes on the turbo trainer it might feel good yeah but an hour two hours three hours four hours five hours in yeah how's that then going to feel yeah and i've got to always remember who i'm fitting yeah i'm fitting a rider who likes to do longer endurance rides yeah because what's going to happen is when your core does end up fatiguing and collapsing then it is going to be your hands neck and shoulders and lower back that's going to take up that weight and that load of your torso yeah so i've got to make sure that i'm i'm keeping in mind not what it feels like after five minutes on the turbo but who you are as a rider as well the other thing that i want to check now because i've also noticed that your body is starting to move around on the saddle a little bit more yeah and the reason being is is because we are now running out of hip flexion so the torso's come down so far now that you going over the top of the pedal stroke is now getting to a point where you're bobbing around on the saddle yeah so your saddle pressure and saddle comfort might have deteriorated a little bit yeah yeah when you start thinking about it yeah so i've got two options number one i can set you back up and raise the saddle uh raise a handle bar by 10 millimeters yeah okay call it a day because that's easy yeah or i could even look at crank arm length ooh how's that going to affect you well your crank arm at the moment is set at 172.5 millimeters okay if i drop your crank arm length down to 170 millimeters yeah it means that i can raise your saddle because your foot at the bottom of your leg extension so the bottom of its downstroke is now two and a half millimeters higher because they're quite shorter because it cranks shorter which means i can bring your saddle up by two and a half millimeters yeah but don't forget that your crank now going over the top of the pedal stroke is two and a half millimeters lower okay so ultimately it's going to relieve five millimeters of saddle height in your over the top of the pedal stroke yeah so we could keep your hands at this height yeah if it's feeling good and let's do a crank arm adjustment and see if we can get rid of that bobbing around on the saddle because of your hip flexion and keep the saddle height the same wow okay it's a real jigsaw yeah the other thing that the people will have noticed as well is that a two and a half millimeter shorter crank length yeah it also means that at the three o'clock position oh my god right your knee over spindle's gonna change yeah so we need to adjust not only saddle height but also knee over spindle oh wow let's get that done okay so it's important that you know we do this and you know these are the things that you don't see on camera guys is the fact that once we made an adjustment pete actually has to ride the bike for a good 20 minutes off-camera just to validate this fit setting and this is the important side effect yeah yeah so i'm going to make those i'm going to get you off the bike now i'm going to get you i'm going to do those crank arms changes and then we're going to you're going to join us again back on the bike and feeling what those results are let's do it let's do it so i've now been on this bike for about 20 minutes i suppose about 20 minutes yet and what we've done we've shortened the cranks only two and a half mil yeah now instantly the engineering went hold on a minute you've reduced the pivot point the lever yeah yeah but then you quietly said you know for someone at my level it really doesn't make a huge amount of difference i just think it's important to focus more on the fit and what it's going to do to your biomechanics as opposed to two and a half millimeters of mechanical advantage what i can say is the my legs and my seat i don't i feel really comfortable i haven't had to move or squiddle around and i'm sat here on what i call my all-day pace yeah um and i've been both on the hoods yeah and actually when you come down on the drops it's really nice yeah yeah really nice and i must say peter you've got a lovely back profile yeah the shoulder profile's looking really nice the note of the turbo trainer is very flat there's no knocking noises coming from the turbo which means biomechanically you're working efficiently yeah but there's one more check one more check and one more check is to bring the height of the bars up by another 10 mil so yeah i guess putting another spacer in indeed see what that feels like yeah and then compare with this again because that this does feel good yes i guess in the back of my head there's an element of if it's too aggressive there's no turning back yeah whereas if we put another 10 ml on it i can if i want to have that 10 mil taken off the fork tube and drop it back down again you can it's a big job oh yeah because it's all integrated because it's all integrated so it's a big job but at the same token you're absolutely right once i've trimmed it off i can't put it back on again but the same token this is why we're spending so much time on the terms exactly all right right i'm going to come up you can make the change i'll keep my legs spinning yeah i didn't realize i'm going to get a workout at the same time i came here this is great you're doing absolutely amazing okay so that's a 10 mil raise back up on the saddle again okay so i feel like nice actually but it's really difficult yeah so what i'm looking at here is your shoulders now have got a little bit more tension than they have yeah because we we've now reduced the amount of core use yeah so now your shoulders have taken a little bit more of that pressure yeah however we're also by doing that we're not utilizing the core so they're not going to get as fatigued as quickly on a longer ride yeah don't forget you've still got the drops so if you do want to come down further we've got the drops to go into yeah which feel really nice which will feel really good the other thing we're saying off camera is the difference in having the right bar width is amazing and i can really feel it really really feel it um because i know when we did my stick we changed the stem but we didn't change the bars because it was going to cost a lot of money and i just couldn't afford to do that so yeah it was i didn't realize what a difference it would make yeah but it makes me different yeah it does it does i do feel heavier in my hands in this position and you will do um can we put it right down again we can put it back down again it's really difficult to commit to instantly i see we've got less tension in the elbow yeah we've got less tension in the shoulder yeah the note of the turbo trainer hasn't changed so we're not running up inside your hip flexion anymore everything's looking really really good yeah i think personally yeah if you are concerned let's run it with the extra 10 ml yeah because on a long endurance ride yeah when you're four five six hours in yeah and you are feeling tired yeah it will potentially just give you a little bit more relief yeah and you always have your drops to go into if you want to get lower yeah as opposed to going all out aggressive not only in the hoods but also in the drop yes i agree yeah i think that's a i think that's the sensible way i think yeah yeah you know i feel like i could sit here all day yeah and that that's ultimately what we're looking for and one final point on this is that um because some of your viewers will will spot this there'll be the question that's coming back that's saying well now you've raised our handle bars back up by 10 mil are you going to return to the longer crank and the and the different saddle height again and i would say no i i i think based on the flexibility in your hip flexion and how the legs are moving at the moment i want to keep that crank arm length i want to keep that positioning but still keep the handlebar high where it is yeah so that's how we've got fit we've got to fit we now need to put all of these x and y coordinates plus the crank arm length bar width into the computer and we'll print you off your fit wicking now guys i know that was a long one but there was so much good stuff in there yeah and we will be doing a podcast after this so i'll put the links below to that yeah make sure you like share and subscribe to this video i'll put all the links to criterium cycles in the description below so go and check out their website follow them on social and tune in to the next one i'm going to stop here sure gets what to eat tune into the next video because the next video for me is one i've been really excited about because we're going to choose the group set the componentry that's going to go on the bike yeah and that for me is so full of engineering and cool technology and sexy carbon fiber yeah and some really exciting things so that will be the next video on cycle sunday tune in next week at six o'clock on sunday for the next stage in my dream bike but we've gotta fit we've gotta fit and it feels magnificent and i know we're in a lucky situation that we're able to kind of build it from the components up yes but even some of the decisions the basic decisions we made today just about the the seat position seat height you can do that with any bike indeed um so yeah i hope you enjoyed that guys and we will see you on the next episode of cycle sunday but yeah i think we deserve a drink take care and ride safe ride safe you\n"