Bringing This Project to an End: A Journey Through the Cooling System's Construction

After completing the rust treatment for the inner layer, I decided it was time to move on to the next step. I performed one final test assembly to ensure that everything was working together seamlessly before marking the center line of my back piece. This marked a crucial point in the construction process as it would serve as the foundation for the rest of the project.

I then drew two evenly spaced 4x4 ZM squares on the Peltier modules, which were an essential component of the cooling system. The center point of the top section was given a cross label to facilitate drilling a precise 6 mm hole for the temperature sensor. Given that I had already started using the drill, it seemed like a logical step to create four holes in each square of the Peltier spots. These holes were necessary to insert my saw blade easily and allow me to cut out the square pieces.

With the inner construction receiving all the mandatory openings, it was time to start combining the parts together. However, I must admit that I acted completely stupid during my first try. The success method would have consisted of gluing the side and top bottom pieces together and then adding the back plate while the glue was drying. It wasn't until later that I realized the importance of creating small indentations for the wire of the Peltier modules.

These indentations made a significant difference in the overall design of the cooling system, making it easier to manage and maintain. Once the paint on the inner compartment was dry, I went outside to spray paint the whole thing white, with the exception of one side which didn't really matter. The inside, however, required multiple layers of paint before I used sandpaper to rub the surface of the aluminum and acetone to remove any remaining fat layer.

To bind the two materials together, I used a small drop of two-component adhesive in each corner of the aluminum sheet. I also recommend applying enough contact pressure while the glue was drying to ensure proper bonding. Surprisingly, the Peltier modules were not thick enough to fill out the MDF gap, so I prepared 4x4 CM squares made of the aluminum sheet to bridge this gap.

These squares were necessary to maintain a uniform temperature throughout the cooling system and also helped with thermal conductivity. Using the same procedure as before, except for using thermal conductive glue instead of two-component adhesive, I sat the Peltier modules on top of the aluminum sheets. This was an essential step in completing the inner construction of the cooling system.

Moving on to the outer layer, I first marked the location for the heat sinks on the back side. This was followed by creating a small piece of stripboard and female headers to build an extension board for my Arduino Nano. I also created 3mm holes in each corner of this board to mount it securely.

Next, I created necessary holes and a bigger additional hole where I could feed my wires through later on. Using my sword to make the square cutouts seemed like a tedious process at times, but it was an essential step in completing the outer layer. To create an even surface for the upcoming outer layer, I temporarily secured the sides to the cooler using glue.

I then measured out four fitting spots for air holes which would let warm air from the heat sinks escape. These air holes were necessary to maintain a proper temperature throughout the cooling system. With this final step complete, the mechanical build of the cooling system was finally coming together.

For the last step, I redid the wiring as described in part one and used a powerful 12T power supply because the normal current draw is around 7 amps. After positioning the cans inside the compartments preferably near the cold aluminum sheet and closing the door, we had to wait for quite a while – in my case overnight – to reach a decent temperature.

This project was finally complete, and it was time to put everything to the test. The cooling system was designed to keep the electronics cool during prolonged usage, which is essential for any serious DIYer or enthusiast. The end result of this project was a well-designed and functional cooling system that kept the electronics at an optimal temperature.

The Cooling System's Construction: A Step-by-Step Guide

Creating a DIY cooling system can be a challenging but rewarding experience. In this article, we will explore the construction of a cooling system using Peltier modules, aluminum sheets, and other essential components. We will cover every step of the process, from rust treatment to final assembly.

To start, it's essential to begin with the inner layer. Rust treatment is crucial in ensuring that the metal remains stable and does not corrode over time. Once the rust has been treated, we can move on to the next step – marking the center line of the back piece.

This marked a critical point in the construction process as it would serve as the foundation for the rest of the project. The next step was drawing two evenly spaced 4x4 ZM squares on the Peltier modules, which were an essential component of the cooling system.

The center point of the top section was given a cross label to facilitate drilling a precise 6 mm hole for the temperature sensor. Given that I had already started using the drill, it seemed logical to create four holes in each square of the Peltier spots. These holes were necessary to insert my saw blade easily and allow me to cut out the square pieces.

With the inner construction receiving all the mandatory openings, it was time to start combining the parts together. However, I must admit that I acted completely stupid during my first try. The success method would have consisted of gluing the side and top bottom pieces together and then adding the back plate while the glue was drying.

It wasn't until later that I realized the importance of creating small indentations for the wire of the Peltier modules. These indentations made a significant difference in the overall design of the cooling system, making it easier to manage and maintain.

Once the paint on the inner compartment was dry, I went outside to spray paint the whole thing white, with the exception of one side which didn't really matter. The inside, however, required multiple layers of paint before I used sandpaper to rub the surface of the aluminum and acetone to remove any remaining fat layer.

To bind the two materials together, I used a small drop of two-component adhesive in each corner of the aluminum sheet. I also recommend applying enough contact pressure while the glue was drying to ensure proper bonding. Surprisingly, the Peltier modules were not thick enough to fill out the MDF gap, so I prepared 4x4 CM squares made of the aluminum sheet to bridge this gap.

These squares were necessary to maintain a uniform temperature throughout the cooling system and also helped with thermal conductivity. Using the same procedure as before, except for using thermal conductive glue instead of two-component adhesive, I sat the Peltier modules on top of the aluminum sheets.

This was an essential step in completing the inner construction of the cooling system. The next step would be to move on to the outer layer, which would require some additional components and materials.

The outer layer consisted of a stripboard and female headers to build an extension board for my Arduino Nano. I also created 3mm holes in each corner of this board to mount it securely. Next, I created necessary holes and a bigger additional hole where I could feed my wires through later on.

Using my sword to make the square cutouts seemed like a tedious process at times, but it was an essential step in completing the outer layer. To create an even surface for the upcoming outer layer, I temporarily secured the sides to the cooler using glue.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enlet's bring this project to an end after I finished the rust treatment for the inner layer Parts I did one final test assembly before I marked the center line of my back piece I then drew two evenly spaced 4x4 ZM squares for the Peltier modules afterwards the center point of the top section got its cross label so that I could drill a precise 6 mm hole for the temperature sensor and since I was already using the drill I created four holes in each square of the Peltier spots these holes are necessary to insert my saw blade easily so that I could cut out the square pieces now that the inner construction received all the mandatory openings I got myself wood glue and started to combine the parts but let's just say I acted completely stupid it during my first try the success method would consist of firstly gluing the side and top bottom pieces together and then adding the back plate while the glue was drying I measured out a fitting square piece of 2 mm thick aluminum which will let act as heat sink for the cold side and of course I used my deop saw afterwards to create it a couple hours later the glue of the inner compartment was finally dry but I completely forgot to create small indentations for the wire of the Peltier modules you might want to do this before gluing all of this together makes your life a bit easier then I went outside with it and spray painted the whole thing white the outside does not really matter that much but I did a couple of paint layers for the inside once the paint was dry I used sandpaper to rub the surface of the aluminum and acetone to remove the remaining fat layer to to bind the two materials I used a small drop of two component adhesive in each corner of the aluminum sheet and I also recommend Transformers to apply enough contact pressure while the glue was drying I already prepared 4x4 CM squares made of the aluminum sheet because surprise the pte modules are not thick enough to fill out the MDF Gap to reach the heat sink on the hot side that is why those little squares are necessary and with the same procedure as before except this time I use thermal conductive glue instead of two component adhesive I stti two of them in each cutout and on top of course sit the two Peltier modules after this madness I used another glue to bind the styrofoam sides and top bottom to the inner layer with the help of a 6 mm drill bit I extended the hole for the temperature sensor and use the cutter to create the cutouts for the heat sinks on the back side of the styrofoam piece once those seemed to fit nicely I linked the styrofoam to the MDF then it was time to move over to the outer layer by firstly marking the location for the heat sinks on the back side afterwards I used a small piece of stripboard and female headers to build an extension board for my uino Nano I also created 3mm hols in each corner of this board to mount it in the end just as the relay board onto the The Backs side of the outer layer next step is pretty obvious I created the necessary holes and a bigger additional hole where I can later feed my wires through and used my sword to make the square cutouts I don't know why but back then it felt a bit repetitive nevertheless I continued by creating round cable ducts with the help of my crude hot wire cutter as the name suggests I can hide my wires in there later on to create an even surface for the upcoming outer layer then I temporarily secured the sides to the cooler to measure out four fitting spots for air holds which will later let the warm air of the heat sinks Escape after they were drilled I enlarged them a bit with my temperature sensor which then got secured in its hole with the help of two component adhesive before I went outside again to spray paint only one side of the outer layer whites I mounted the CPU heat sinks onto the pelum mod modules the procedure should be clear by now next I secured the P fan and sensor wires inside the cable ducts with the help of glue which I then also used to secure the sides of the outer layer to the styrofoam sides but not the backs side it gets a bit of special attention by securing the relay and alino board onto it with the help of 3 mm bolts and nuts and after I extended the wires of my main Electronics I fed them through the bigger hole loader the whole plate and seal it shut with the help of four brackets you may have also already noticed that the front is still completely open let's change that by pressing the inner front part into its place and adding a bigger sterofoam layer on top which was followed by the final outer layer piece once the glue was dry I was able to remove this door construction and added a simple handle before I attached it permanently to the cooler FW two hinges and after I added four rubber feeds onto the bottom sides the mechanical build was finally done for the last step I redid the wiring like I described it in part one and used the powerful 12T power supply because the normal current draw is around 7 amps after positioning the cans inside the compartments preferably near the cold aluminum sheet and closing the door we have to wait quite a while in my case overnight night to reach a decent temperature until next summer I may need to improve the messy wiring the wi paint and the power supply solution but for now it is a pretty cool project I hope you like this video If so don't forget to like share and subscribe that would be awesome stay creative and I will see you next time