Restoring a 10-inch Crescent Wrench from China

This one's made in China somewhere and it's a big 10-inch er but nobody wants a rusty one and this knurl is sure to give me trouble. Okay right off the bat I know this thing needs to take a bath so it goes and we'll see if we can remove that surface rust after a few hours no reason to bore you with an excessively long time lapse but as you can see the surface rust is coming off and then just giving it a check and there was a little bit of rusty goof in a couple of spots then I just used a metal brush and killed that it's disassembly time and you know what that means it's time to under all this thing or D knurl it or I'm gonna put some Earl in there and see if I can loosen things up. After about ten minutes it was time to try to get that pin out it's barely moving so I'm gonna go slow and steady I don't want to snap that pin or a strip those threads so I'm gonna go slow and steady and finally the pin is out all right you knurl you get over here now this thing came out really easily and there's a little spring on the one end that keeps the knurl from sliding back and forth unnecessarily then the jaw just slides out and that's got some rust on it so over to the wire wheel and we'll remove that leftover rust.

The wire wheel is great because it not only removes the rust that also gives the metal a little bit of a shine and while I'm at it I'll clean up that pin make sure it doesn't stick when I reinstall it. And then I'm gonna give the head the wire brushed treatment and you can see how this really does a great job of shining up this metal there are quite a few pits in this metal which I really don't like so I'm gonna take my flat file this is a fine metal file and I'm gonna try to work that and see if those pits go away. And I'm really not getting anywhere that pits are a little bit deeper than I would actually like to grind this metal off I don't want to make it any worse than it already is so the pits are staying in.

I'm gonna go ahead and give the rest of the wrench a nice wire brush treatment and shine things up just a bit. And then I'm gonna do a sandpaper treatment starting at 220 and working my way up in numbers oh and then there's this okay got that taken care of now on to the head there's some spots in between where the jaws slides that the rust isn't completely gone so I'm gonna use my wire brush attachment on my Dremel and go to work on that looking good. Then I had to roll up some sandpaper and do this to get the rust out from inside where the jaw teeth slide then I wire brushed the knurl so we have a smooth opening and closing of our wrench.

So what about that little spring you asked well it is rusty and I'm just gonna replace it I've got my little parts bin here full of assorted Springs and I'll find one that's the exact same diameter and then just cut out a little double loop which is all this is and that'll work perfectly. Now it's prep time for our powder coating so I'll use some acetone to make sure there is no grease or anything left on this wrench and then I'm gonna start taping it up with some high-temperature tape I'm gonna cover pretty much the entire wrench and just leave that inside area which will be powder coated.

Which means it's time to hang in my DIY powder coating booth and then blast away after a thorough coat we're gonna hang it in the oven and let it flow out at 450 degrees for about 5 minutes once that's done we dropped the temp to 400 and go 20 minutes and then we'll watch the powder coating cure times up. Which means it's time to pull it and let it cool down once it's cool enough to handle it's time to unwrap it from its heat sensitive tape package so we'll do that.

And then we're left with the inside area of our wrench powder coated a nice bright red. Time for reassembly I'll slide the jaw in insert that spring in the far end of our neural drop the neural in place and then run the pin through to hold everything together. Now that is a smooth spinning wrench now it opens and closes with just one finger and I think it turned out looking pretty good so wrench number two wins the wrench versus wrench challenge even though the first wrench beat me had a great time restoring the second one.

If there's something you'd like to see me restore leave it in the comments and a check out some of my other Kipkay restored videos just click on the links on the screen thanks for watching we'll see you next time.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enit's French versus ranch which of these two old rusty ranches will get a new life let the challenge begin our first contestant is this really old and heavily rusted monkey wrench I don't know how old this is but it must have been left out in the rain for a long time challenge accepted as you can imagine the knurl on this wrench is not going to turn this thing is locked in place so we've got to start by getting rid of some of this rust my go-to rust remover is metal rescue which is water-based there's no chemicals or acids and it's pretty much safe to everything except the rust so we'll cover our wrench in that and let it do its work now with anything this rusted it's gonna take some time and patience metal rescue needs a long time to get that rust off and as time progresses you can see how the liquid gets darker that means the rust is coming off now I actually let this sit for about 12 hours and then checked it now most of the surface rust is gone but I'm concerned about the rust inside this wrench because that's what's holding it together checking this knurl and it is not budging so I'm gonna take some three-in-one penetrating oil and spread that liberally into the gear and let it sit now it's time to use some force so the wrench goes in my vise and then I'll use another wrench and see if I can turn this knurl at all and it is not budging not a bit I probed a little bit with a pick and wow this is rusted deep down inside here and this heavy rust is still in place well I guess it's time to give this thing a little bit of a pounding my chisel and a hammer let's see what happens nothing yet all right it's hammer time all right well I guess we'll try some heat they'll fire up my blowtorch and heat up this wrench see if that'll do anything heat causes atoms and molecules to move around more they get a little crazy and take up more space and can expand metal so if we can get some expansion maybe we can free this thing up you can see how the heat has caused the metal to lighten up so lighten up will ya let me slam the crap out of it I'm not really sure what else to do one last effort with more penetrating oil and then I'm gonna hit it hard with my hammer all I'm really doing is dinging this thing with a hammer I didn't really have high hopes for this well I think it's pretty obvious wrench number one has lost the challenge this thing is pretty much just one solid hunk of rusted metal so onto challenger number two totally uncalled-for okay this is your standard run-of-the-mill adjustable crescent wrench this one's made in China somewhere and it's a big 10-inch er but nobody wants a rusty one and this knurl is sure to give me trouble okay right off the bat I know this thing needs to take a bath so it goes and we'll see if we can remove that surface rust after a few hours no reason to bore you with an excessively long time lapse but as you can see the surface rust is coming off and then just giving it a check and there was a little bit of rusty goof in a couple of spots then I just used a metal brush and killed that it's disassembly time and you know what that means it's time to under all this thing or D knurl it or I'm gonna put some Earl in there and see if I can loosen things up after about ten minutes it was time to try to get that pin out it's barely moving so I'm gonna go slow and steady I don't want to snap that pin or a strip those threads so I'm gonna go slow and steady and finally the pin is out all right you knurl you get over here now this thing came out really easily and there's a little spring on the one end that keeps the knurl from sliding back and forth unnecessarily then the jaw just slides out and that's got some rust on it so over to the wire wheel and we'll remove that leftover rust the wire wheel is great because it not only removes the rust that also gives the metal a little bit of a shine and while I'm at it I'll clean up that pin make sure it doesn't stick when I reinstall it and then I'm gonna give the head the wire brushed treatment and you can see how this really does a great job of shining up this metal there are quite a few pits in this metal which I really don't like so I'm gonna take my flat file this is a fine metal file and I'm gonna try to work that and see if those pits go away and I'm really not getting anywhere that pits are a little bit deeper than I would actually like to grind this metal off I don't want to make it any worse than it already is so the pits are staying in I'm gonna go ahead and give the rest to the wrench a nice wire brush treatment and shine things up just a bit and then I'm gonna do a sandpaper treatment starting at 220 and working my way up in numbers oh and then there's this okay got that taken care of now on to the head there's some spots in between where the jaws slides that the rust isn't completely gone so I'm gonna use my wire brush attachment on my Dremel and go to work on that looking good then I had to roll up some sandpaper and do this to get the rust out from inside where the jaw teeth slide then I wire brush the knurl so we have a smooth opening and closing of our wrench so what about that little spring you asked well it is rusty and I'm just gonna replace it I've got my little parts bin here full of assorted Springs and I'll find one that's the exact same diameter and then just cut out a little double loop which is all this is and that'll work perfectly now it's prep time for our powder coating so I'll use some acetone to make sure there is no grease or anything left on this wrench and then I'm gonna start taping it up with some high-temperature tape I'm gonna cover pretty much the entire wrench and just leave that inside area which will be powder coated which means it's time to hang in my DIY powder coating booth and then blast away after a thorough coat we're gonna hang it in the oven and let it flow out at 450 degrees for about 5 minutes once that's done we dropped the temp to 400 and go 20 minutes and then we'll watch the powder coating cure times up which means it's time to pull it and let it cool down once it's cool enough to handle it's time to unwrap it from its heat sensitive tape package so we'll do that and then we're left with the inside area of our wrench powder coated a nice bright red time for reassembly I'll slide the jaw in insert that spring in the far end of our neural drop the neural in place and then run the pin through to hold everything together now that is a smooth spinning wrench now it opens and closes with just one finger and I think it turned out looking pretty good so wrench number two wins the wrench versus wrench challenge even though the first wrench beat me had a great time restoring the second one if there's something you'd like to see me restore leave it in the comments and a check out some of my other Kipkay restored videos just click one of the links on the screen thanks for watching we'll see you next timeit's French versus ranch which of these two old rusty ranches will get a new life let the challenge begin our first contestant is this really old and heavily rusted monkey wrench I don't know how old this is but it must have been left out in the rain for a long time challenge accepted as you can imagine the knurl on this wrench is not going to turn this thing is locked in place so we've got to start by getting rid of some of this rust my go-to rust remover is metal rescue which is water-based there's no chemicals or acids and it's pretty much safe to everything except the rust so we'll cover our wrench in that and let it do its work now with anything this rusted it's gonna take some time and patience metal rescue needs a long time to get that rust off and as time progresses you can see how the liquid gets darker that means the rust is coming off now I actually let this sit for about 12 hours and then checked it now most of the surface rust is gone but I'm concerned about the rust inside this wrench because that's what's holding it together checking this knurl and it is not budging so I'm gonna take some three-in-one penetrating oil and spread that liberally into the gear and let it sit now it's time to use some force so the wrench goes in my vise and then I'll use another wrench and see if I can turn this knurl at all and it is not budging not a bit I probed a little bit with a pick and wow this is rusted deep down inside here and this heavy rust is still in place well I guess it's time to give this thing a little bit of a pounding my chisel and a hammer let's see what happens nothing yet all right it's hammer time all right well I guess we'll try some heat they'll fire up my blowtorch and heat up this wrench see if that'll do anything heat causes atoms and molecules to move around more they get a little crazy and take up more space and can expand metal so if we can get some expansion maybe we can free this thing up you can see how the heat has caused the metal to lighten up so lighten up will ya let me slam the crap out of it I'm not really sure what else to do one last effort with more penetrating oil and then I'm gonna hit it hard with my hammer all I'm really doing is dinging this thing with a hammer I didn't really have high hopes for this well I think it's pretty obvious wrench number one has lost the challenge this thing is pretty much just one solid hunk of rusted metal so onto challenger number two totally uncalled-for okay this is your standard run-of-the-mill adjustable crescent wrench this one's made in China somewhere and it's a big 10-inch er but nobody wants a rusty one and this knurl is sure to give me trouble okay right off the bat I know this thing needs to take a bath so it goes and we'll see if we can remove that surface rust after a few hours no reason to bore you with an excessively long time lapse but as you can see the surface rust is coming off and then just giving it a check and there was a little bit of rusty goof in a couple of spots then I just used a metal brush and killed that it's disassembly time and you know what that means it's time to under all this thing or D knurl it or I'm gonna put some Earl in there and see if I can loosen things up after about ten minutes it was time to try to get that pin out it's barely moving so I'm gonna go slow and steady I don't want to snap that pin or a strip those threads so I'm gonna go slow and steady and finally the pin is out all right you knurl you get over here now this thing came out really easily and there's a little spring on the one end that keeps the knurl from sliding back and forth unnecessarily then the jaw just slides out and that's got some rust on it so over to the wire wheel and we'll remove that leftover rust the wire wheel is great because it not only removes the rust that also gives the metal a little bit of a shine and while I'm at it I'll clean up that pin make sure it doesn't stick when I reinstall it and then I'm gonna give the head the wire brushed treatment and you can see how this really does a great job of shining up this metal there are quite a few pits in this metal which I really don't like so I'm gonna take my flat file this is a fine metal file and I'm gonna try to work that and see if those pits go away and I'm really not getting anywhere that pits are a little bit deeper than I would actually like to grind this metal off I don't want to make it any worse than it already is so the pits are staying in I'm gonna go ahead and give the rest to the wrench a nice wire brush treatment and shine things up just a bit and then I'm gonna do a sandpaper treatment starting at 220 and working my way up in numbers oh and then there's this okay got that taken care of now on to the head there's some spots in between where the jaws slides that the rust isn't completely gone so I'm gonna use my wire brush attachment on my Dremel and go to work on that looking good then I had to roll up some sandpaper and do this to get the rust out from inside where the jaw teeth slide then I wire brush the knurl so we have a smooth opening and closing of our wrench so what about that little spring you asked well it is rusty and I'm just gonna replace it I've got my little parts bin here full of assorted Springs and I'll find one that's the exact same diameter and then just cut out a little double loop which is all this is and that'll work perfectly now it's prep time for our powder coating so I'll use some acetone to make sure there is no grease or anything left on this wrench and then I'm gonna start taping it up with some high-temperature tape I'm gonna cover pretty much the entire wrench and just leave that inside area which will be powder coated which means it's time to hang in my DIY powder coating booth and then blast away after a thorough coat we're gonna hang it in the oven and let it flow out at 450 degrees for about 5 minutes once that's done we dropped the temp to 400 and go 20 minutes and then we'll watch the powder coating cure times up which means it's time to pull it and let it cool down once it's cool enough to handle it's time to unwrap it from its heat sensitive tape package so we'll do that and then we're left with the inside area of our wrench powder coated a nice bright red time for reassembly I'll slide the jaw in insert that spring in the far end of our neural drop the neural in place and then run the pin through to hold everything together now that is a smooth spinning wrench now it opens and closes with just one finger and I think it turned out looking pretty good so wrench number two wins the wrench versus wrench challenge even though the first wrench beat me had a great time restoring the second one if there's something you'd like to see me restore leave it in the comments and a check out some of my other Kipkay restored videos just click one of the links on the screen thanks for watching we'll see you next time\n"