**Project: Remote Control System for Igniting Fireworks and Explosives**
**Introduction**
I recently completed a project that involves designing and building a remote control system for igniting fireworks and explosives from a safe distance. The goal of this project is to create a robust and reliable system that can be used in outdoor settings, such as near explosives.
**Hardware Components**
To achieve this, I started by selecting the necessary hardware components. These include:
* A microcontroller (MCU) that will receive serial data and control the ignition process
* Analog pins for voltage measurement to ensure proper battery operation
* Mass FETs (Field-Effect Transistors) for switching on/off the ignition signal
* 0.5 W high-power LED for indicating system status
* XT60 connectors for easy extension wire attachment
* Fuse, switch, and regulator with smoothing capacitors for added safety
**Schematic Diagram**
I created a schematic diagram to visualize the electrical connections between these components. The diagram shows how the MCU receives serial data through the receive pin and checks if it matches predefined code words. If so, it activates the corresponding Mass FET using analog read function on pin A23 (AZ) and voltage divider.
**Code Implementation**
The code was uploaded using FTDI breakouts and tested with a small circuit consisting of three LEDs. Once confirmed to be working correctly, I integrated this functionality into my final circuit design.
**Circuit Design**
My final circuit includes:
* A fuse for the battery in case of short circuits
* Switch for manual control
* 5V regulator with smoothing capacitors and pull-down resistors for added safety
* Resistors to limit input rush current for Mass FETs
* XT60 connectors for easy extension wire attachment
**Enclosure Design**
The enclosure was created using a robust metal case. Four small holes were drilled on the back side for attaching the battery with zip ties, creating a "backpack" effect. A spot was marked and extended to fit the switch, and three XT60 connectors were positioned on the front side.
**Acrylic Glass Cover**
To prevent electrical contact between the circuit board and metal case, an acrylic glass cover was secured inside the case using M3 bolts and nuts.
**Wire Routing**
Thin wire (0.75 sq mm) was used to connect the three female XT60 connectors and thinner wire for the female headers. Sandpaper and acetone were used to clean the area around the cutouts, and two-component adhesive was applied to secure the connectors to the case.
**Perf Board Layout**
The circuit board layout was created using a perf board with Caro dots. Components were positioned based on their functionality rather than creating a proper layout diagram.
**Final Assembly**
Once completed, the negative side of the XT60 connectors was soldered to the drain of Mass FETs and another wire connected to the source. The board was mounted inside the case, along with the battery and switch. A fuse was placed in between the battery's negative terminal and Vago terminal.
**Test and Verification**
After wiring up the switch, all components were verified to be working correctly. Extension wires were measured and soldered to the male XT60 connector with a female header on one side and a bigger female header with 150 ohm resistors and power LED on the other.
**Conclusion**
With this remote control system for igniting fireworks and explosives, I can now safely light them from a distance. If you enjoyed this project, don't forget to like, share, and subscribe!
WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: ensince my YouTube channel Great Scott reached 100,000 subscribers it is time to celebrate and what better way to do so than with fireworks but igniting those whipper ligher is kind of boring for an Electronics Enthusiast so in this video I'm going to show you how to build a remote igniting system which is controlled by bluetooth through an app on your smartphone to light up a maximum of three igniter cords simultaneously let's get started in order to light up an ignite a cord we need heat obviously an easy safe and most importantly cheap way to produce it is by abusing a resistor with a small value depending on the voltage source that you want to use in my case a 7. for Lithium Polymer battery you need to choose your ideal resistor value I tried a couple of different ones from 1 ohm up to 10 ohm and even though something like 2 ohm gets hot very fast it also burns out just as fast which makes it not ideal for the setup in the end I went with 10 ohm because it might take a bit longer for the ignition but it worked every time later on those will be switched on by mass fets which are controlled by a microcontroller which received the activation data from a Bluetooth module this one is an hc06 which is very easy to use I just hooked it up to a power source and connected the transmit pin to the receive pin of my ftdi breakout if I pair my phone with the module I can send all kinds of asking messages with the S2 terminal app the module then receives them spits them out and I can see them with the help of the serial monitor of the Arduino IDE those messages will later act as a trigger in my code to activate the first second or third Moss fat but having to write them with the touch keyboard can be a bit annoying that is why I used the MIT App Inventor 2 to create my own customized app to send out those code words with the push of a button I started off with the main Bluetooth functionality which was not created by me I used an existing structure by W Quai and all I had to do was to add three buttons which send out my code words ignite one ignite 2 and ignite three once everything was looking nice I created the application and installed it on my phone then I got myself an at Mega 816 which is pretty much just a cheaper variation of the microcontroller of the Arduino Uno with less space for programs I uploaded the Arduino boot loader to it plugged it in my Arduino stalon board and gave it power then I went ahead and started to write the code firstly the microcontroller Waits until serial data has been sent to it if it gets data through the receive pin it will check whether it is one of the code words if so it firstly checks with the analog read function on pin a z AKA pin 23 and the voltage divider whether the battery is over a set cut off voltage in my case this voltage is around 6.7 volts not because the the battery would die with a lower voltage but because the 5vt regulator stops working properly with anything below this if the voltage is okay the corresponding mass fet is turned on and a Time variable starts which increases slowly and turns off the digital pin aka the M fat after a given time then I uploaded the codes with the help of my ftdi breakouts and created a small test circuit with three LEDs after I was sure everything worked like it is supposed to I created my final circuit where I included a fuse for the battery in case anything goes wrong and there's a short circuit a switch a 5vt regulator with smoothing capacitors pull down resistors and resistors to limit the input Rush current for the mass fets and at the end I included those xt60 High current connectors which will make it very easy to attach the extension wires later on the complete list of components the code schematic and everything useful to build something similar is as always in the description I went with a robust metal case this time since we want to use this outside in the dark next to explosives firstly I created four small holes on the back side of the case where I can later attach my battery with the help of zip ties it is kind of like a backpack then I marked a nice spot for my switch preed a small hole and then extended it to the necessary size with a big drill bit afterwards I positioned my three xt60 connectors on the front s side and Mark that place with a scriber in order to create the cutouts I drill two holes in each position and use small files and a lot of time to make them look good but because I will need three wire connections later on to also power a 0.5 wat high power LED which will later help me to attach the resistors to the ignition cords in the dark I also created a small gap for one female header once this was done I used my saw to make a rectangle piece of acrylic glass and perf board with Caro dots which I secured with M3 bolts and nuts to the inside of the case the acrylic glass prevents the circuit from touching the metal case because surprise metal is conductive and would create a short circuit then I sold out 0.75 squ mm wire to the three three female xt60 connectors and thinner wire to the three female headers I use sandpaper and acetone to clean the area around the cutouts and use two component adhesive to secure the connectors to the case afterwards I created my circuit on the perf boards with the help of my schematic but I didn't make a proper layout diagram I just positioned the parts where f it would make sense and use solar Bridges and a bit of wire to make all the connections once it was done and worked fine I solded the negative side of the xt60 connectors to the drain of the mass fets and another wire to the source then I mounted the board inside the case and also secur the battery and the switch at the end I place my fuse in between the batteries negative and the negative Vago terminal which connect the source of the mass fats the board's ground and the 0.5 W LED grounds together of course there has also a positive terminal which connects the xt60 plus pins the switch and the plus terminal of the battery together after I wired up the switch everything was done and I only had to measure out a fitting length for the extension wires and sold the xt60 male connector with a male header on one side and a bigger female header with two 150 ohm resistors and power LED on the other side and we are finally done now I can enjoy to light up not only only fireworks but more dangerous explosives from a safe distance if you enjoyed this project then don't forget to like share and subscribe that would be awesome consider supporting me through my patreon campaign stay creative and I will see you next timesince my YouTube channel Great Scott reached 100,000 subscribers it is time to celebrate and what better way to do so than with fireworks but igniting those whipper ligher is kind of boring for an Electronics Enthusiast so in this video I'm going to show you how to build a remote igniting system which is controlled by bluetooth through an app on your smartphone to light up a maximum of three igniter cords simultaneously let's get started in order to light up an ignite a cord we need heat obviously an easy safe and most importantly cheap way to produce it is by abusing a resistor with a small value depending on the voltage source that you want to use in my case a 7. for Lithium Polymer battery you need to choose your ideal resistor value I tried a couple of different ones from 1 ohm up to 10 ohm and even though something like 2 ohm gets hot very fast it also burns out just as fast which makes it not ideal for the setup in the end I went with 10 ohm because it might take a bit longer for the ignition but it worked every time later on those will be switched on by mass fets which are controlled by a microcontroller which received the activation data from a Bluetooth module this one is an hc06 which is very easy to use I just hooked it up to a power source and connected the transmit pin to the receive pin of my ftdi breakout if I pair my phone with the module I can send all kinds of asking messages with the S2 terminal app the module then receives them spits them out and I can see them with the help of the serial monitor of the Arduino IDE those messages will later act as a trigger in my code to activate the first second or third Moss fat but having to write them with the touch keyboard can be a bit annoying that is why I used the MIT App Inventor 2 to create my own customized app to send out those code words with the push of a button I started off with the main Bluetooth functionality which was not created by me I used an existing structure by W Quai and all I had to do was to add three buttons which send out my code words ignite one ignite 2 and ignite three once everything was looking nice I created the application and installed it on my phone then I got myself an at Mega 816 which is pretty much just a cheaper variation of the microcontroller of the Arduino Uno with less space for programs I uploaded the Arduino boot loader to it plugged it in my Arduino stalon board and gave it power then I went ahead and started to write the code firstly the microcontroller Waits until serial data has been sent to it if it gets data through the receive pin it will check whether it is one of the code words if so it firstly checks with the analog read function on pin a z AKA pin 23 and the voltage divider whether the battery is over a set cut off voltage in my case this voltage is around 6.7 volts not because the the battery would die with a lower voltage but because the 5vt regulator stops working properly with anything below this if the voltage is okay the corresponding mass fet is turned on and a Time variable starts which increases slowly and turns off the digital pin aka the M fat after a given time then I uploaded the codes with the help of my ftdi breakouts and created a small test circuit with three LEDs after I was sure everything worked like it is supposed to I created my final circuit where I included a fuse for the battery in case anything goes wrong and there's a short circuit a switch a 5vt regulator with smoothing capacitors pull down resistors and resistors to limit the input Rush current for the mass fets and at the end I included those xt60 High current connectors which will make it very easy to attach the extension wires later on the complete list of components the code schematic and everything useful to build something similar is as always in the description I went with a robust metal case this time since we want to use this outside in the dark next to explosives firstly I created four small holes on the back side of the case where I can later attach my battery with the help of zip ties it is kind of like a backpack then I marked a nice spot for my switch preed a small hole and then extended it to the necessary size with a big drill bit afterwards I positioned my three xt60 connectors on the front s side and Mark that place with a scriber in order to create the cutouts I drill two holes in each position and use small files and a lot of time to make them look good but because I will need three wire connections later on to also power a 0.5 wat high power LED which will later help me to attach the resistors to the ignition cords in the dark I also created a small gap for one female header once this was done I used my saw to make a rectangle piece of acrylic glass and perf board with Caro dots which I secured with M3 bolts and nuts to the inside of the case the acrylic glass prevents the circuit from touching the metal case because surprise metal is conductive and would create a short circuit then I sold out 0.75 squ mm wire to the three three female xt60 connectors and thinner wire to the three female headers I use sandpaper and acetone to clean the area around the cutouts and use two component adhesive to secure the connectors to the case afterwards I created my circuit on the perf boards with the help of my schematic but I didn't make a proper layout diagram I just positioned the parts where f it would make sense and use solar Bridges and a bit of wire to make all the connections once it was done and worked fine I solded the negative side of the xt60 connectors to the drain of the mass fets and another wire to the source then I mounted the board inside the case and also secur the battery and the switch at the end I place my fuse in between the batteries negative and the negative Vago terminal which connect the source of the mass fats the board's ground and the 0.5 W LED grounds together of course there has also a positive terminal which connects the xt60 plus pins the switch and the plus terminal of the battery together after I wired up the switch everything was done and I only had to measure out a fitting length for the extension wires and sold the xt60 male connector with a male header on one side and a bigger female header with two 150 ohm resistors and power LED on the other side and we are finally done now I can enjoy to light up not only only fireworks but more dangerous explosives from a safe distance if you enjoyed this project then don't forget to like share and subscribe that would be awesome consider supporting me through my patreon campaign stay creative and I will see you next time
