I use parts of an e-bike battery pack which I showed you how to create in a previous video and simply welded it to a few more cells in order to create my battery pack after than double checking that all the voltages were correct I measured the battery pack's dimensions created a housing for it in 1 2 3 D design 3d printed with orange PE TG filament soldered wires to an XC60 connector which I then glued to the enclosure with two component adhesive along with a 6s balanced connector sold out the power wires to the battery pack as well as all balanced VIRS and ultimately replaced the battery pack inside the enclosure in order to secure it with a bit of hot glue and closing it all up with the lids and four screws.

Next I charged up the battery pack which have a suitable charger and then finally powered DFS ESC and connected its mini USB ports to my computer after starting the Ves software I connected to the FS ESEA updated its parameters and used the model setup wizard in order to tune the FS ESEA software parameters to the hardware parameters given by the model so after bits of motor movements the motor settings were basically in place and as soon as I said the cutoff voltages for the battery pack which is quite important to not damage it we can use the keyboard to rotate the motor brilliant but of course we cannot use these keyboards while writing the long boards which is why I got myself this Electric skateboards remote control not only can you get it for cheap but after charging it up through a micro USB port it turned out to be easily usable as well.

For that I did the binding adapter into the binding channel of the receiver and pushed the FSC Asea RC input header into the channel one male header then I simply had to hold the binding button on the remotes and turn it on and just like that both devices are paired now by starting the input setup wizard and playing around with the throttle control we cannot only see it that the FS ESEA receives the data signal without a problem but we can also find unity software parameters according to it and just like that my simple electric longboard setup was completes.

But of course before moving forward I had to connect and configure the second FS ESC as well what I did next was designing an enclosure for the FS ESC which I of course 3d printed with PE TG filament as well afterwards Edward holes for 2 or 30 millimeter fans which I secured left and right next to the FS ESC and which get powered by a small 12 volt buck converter this fan cooling system will hopefully keep the mosfet school during operation.

After than using M3 bolts and spacers to secure the 2 FS ESC in place drilling a few holes for all the wires securing the enclosure to the deck with 2 M4 bolts and nuts and also adding an 80 amp resettable fuse to the deck for obvious safety reasons it was finally time for the wiring which I will not explain and full detail here since it is pretty straightforward and you can find more information about it as always in the video description.

Nevertheless the last step was to secure the battery pack to the tech with Velcro tape connecting it to the electronics and flipping the main power switch aka the fuse now the board seems to work just fine which means it was time to head outside activate my GPS tracker app and go for test rides now what I can say after completely emptying the battery pack is that this is the best Electric skateboards/longboard I ever used it is responsive powerful and in my opinion quite safe to write since it accelerates and decelerates softly if you want to and by checking the tracker app the board's seems to come with a top speed of around 30 km/h and a range of around 7 kilometers so all in all I'm very happy with my simple electric longboard design and I hope that this video inspires you to maybe even create something similar on your own.

The best feature about the spot though is that the battery pack is easily swappable which means you can easily hook up a bigger battery pack but that is a subject for another video until then don't forget to Like share subscribe and hitting the notification bell stay creative and I will see you next time.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhi there quick question do you remember this if not then let me tell you that this is my homemade longboard which I electrically motorized in a three part video series that I created about three years ago but as you can see on its backside it's actually not the same electrical or mechanical setup from back then this is actually an improved version version 2 of 3 to be specific and some of its improvements are the following strain gages are mounted inside the boards so that the receiver control PCB can recognize if the driver falls off there is a transmitter PCB with lithium ion charge functionality that is housed inside its own 3d printed enclosure which sends over the throttle information with an n RF 24 the motor adapter is made out of laser-cut aluminum and welded to the axis of the long boards to guarantee a safe mechanical setup there were lots of other changes as well but if I would name them all we would be sitting here all day long what I'm trying to say is that all my longboard builds so far have been pretty complicated which is why in this video I will be repurposing my old long boards and combine it with some off-the-shelf components in order to create a simple version that you can easily build at home let's get started this video is sponsored by jl CPCB which is a creative PCB company since they've won the prize for outstanding booth during the Maker Faire Rome 2019 so feel free to upload yokubou files today and use their affordable service to get your own PCBs I started this builds by removing the old trucks of my long Vortech as well SD - enclosures which I originally used to store the electronics and batteries what I was left with was just a basic deck with a couple of extra holes through it so it was time to bring in the first main component of my simple electric longboard builds which were trucks with attached wheels now while the front wheels are pretty much ordinary longboard wheels the back wheels are certainly not because three wires come out of them and after removing a couple of screws from one wheel and pulling the rubber parts off as well as a metal cylinder we can see that it is actually an outer on our brushless DC motor around which a rubber wheel is placed and if you've got no idea what a BLDC motor is or how to power them then definitely watch my videos about the subject nevertheless after reassembling the wheel I hooked ordinary EEOC's up to both of them power the EEOC's with my lab bench power supply and control them alternating with my ESC tester in order to check whether both motors function correctly which they did by the way I got my hub motor kits from aliexpress for a rather high price point because the motors can handle a lot of power but you can get yourself cheaper alternatives which should also function decently moving on though after finding out the most important properties of the motors which are the KB rating power rating wheel diameter and voltage rating I continue which by securing the two trucks to my deck with the previously used bolts and nuts at this point I could use their already connected EEOC's to drive the motorist but I wanted something a bit more manually adjustable that is why I got myself two FS ESC which you can get for around $60 each they can do 50 amps continuously with a peak current of 240 amps work with 8 to 60 volts and best of all besides all the other awesome features they can utilize the ve AC software in order to fine tune all kinds of important parameters so after I sold out one outputs of an FS ESEA to a motor in order to test it I sadly realized that my power supply might not be the best test power source because not only is it limited to a current of 3 amps but it can also not store energy when the regenerative braking feature is being used now of course we could use a premade lipo battery pack as a suitable replacements but I rather want to use my favorite lithium-ion cell the INR 18 650 - 25 are the first step was to obviously pull the custom battery pack with its the motor rating states a minimum of 6 cells in series which equals a nominal voltage of 21 point 6 volts for the peg multiplying this voltage with the kV rating gives us an average rpm of 1620 and by multiplying this value with the parameter and changing unit Sabbats we get an average speed of around 25 kilometers per hour which seems acceptable of course you could put more cells in serious in order to increase the top speed of your electric long boards for my battery pack though I also decided to add a second cell in parallel to each cell in order to increase the capacity the t25 and ours anti constant current to 40 amps with peaks of up to 200 amps this periodical battery pack should be suitable for my DIY electric long boards so I use parts of an e-bike battery pack which I showed you how to create in a previous video and simply welded it to a few more cells in order to create my battery pack after than double checking that all the voltages were correct I measured the battery packs dimensions created a housing for it in 1 2 3 D design 3d printed Ed's with orange PE TG filaments soldered wires to an xc60 connector which I then glued to the enclosure with two component adhesive along with a 6s balanced connector sold out the power wires to the battery pack as well as all balanced virus and ultimately replaced the battery pack inside the enclosure in order to secure it with a bit of hot glue and closing it all up with the lids and four screws next I charged up the battery pack who have a suitable charger and then finally powered DFS ESC and connected its mini USB ports to my computer after starting the vese software I connected to the FS ESEA updated its and used the model setup wizard in order to tune the FS ESEA software parameters to the hardware parameters given by the model so after bits of motor movements the motor settings were basically in place and as soon as I said the cutoff voltages for the battery pack which is quite important to not damage it we can use the keyboard to rotate the motor brilliant but of course we cannot use these keyboards while writing the long boards which is why I got myself this Electric skateboards remote control not only can you get it for cheap but after charging it up through a micro USB port it turned out to be easily usable as well for that I so did the binding adapter into the binding channel of the receiver and pushed the FSC asea RC input header into the channel one male header then I simply had to hold the binding button on the remotes and turn it on and just like that both devices are paired now by starting the input setup wizard and playing around with the throttle control we cannot only see it that the FS ESEA receives the data signal without a problem but we can also find unity software parameters according to it and just like that my simple electric longboard setup was completes but of course before moving forward I had to connect and configure the second FS ESC as well what I did next was designing an enclosure for the FS es es which I of course 3d printed with PE T G filament as well afterwards Edward holes for 2 or 30 millimeter fans which I secured left and right next to the FS es es and which get powered by a small 12 volt buck converter this fan cooling system will hopefully keep the mosfet school during operation after than using m3 bolts and spacers to secure the 2 FS e CS in place drilling a few holes for all the wires securing the enclosure to the deck with 2 m4 bolts and nuts and also adding an 80 amp resettable fuse to the deck for obvious safety reasons it was finally time for the wiring which I will not explain and full detail here since it is pretty straightforward and you can find more information about it as always in the video description nevertheless the last step was to secure the battery pack to the tech with Velcro tape connecting it to the electronics and flipping the main power switch aka the fuse now the board seems to work just fine which means it was time to head outside activate my GPS tracker app and go for test rides now what I can say after completely emptying the battery pack is that this is the best Electric skateboards / longboard I ever used it is responsive powerful and in my opinion quite safe to write since it accelerates and decelerates softly if you want to and by checking the tracker app the board's seems to come with a top speed of around 30 km/h and a range of around 7 kilometers so all in all I'm very happy with my simple electric longboard design and I hope that this video inspires you to maybe even create something similar on your own the best feature about the spot though is that the battery pack is easily swappable which means you can easily hook up a bigger battery pack but that is a subject for another video until then don't forget to Like share subscribe and hitting the notification bell stay creative and I will see you next timehi there quick question do you remember this if not then let me tell you that this is my homemade longboard which I electrically motorized in a three part video series that I created about three years ago but as you can see on its backside it's actually not the same electrical or mechanical setup from back then this is actually an improved version version 2 of 3 to be specific and some of its improvements are the following strain gages are mounted inside the boards so that the receiver control PCB can recognize if the driver falls off there is a transmitter PCB with lithium ion charge functionality that is housed inside its own 3d printed enclosure which sends over the throttle information with an n RF 24 the motor adapter is made out of laser-cut aluminum and welded to the axis of the long boards to guarantee a safe mechanical setup there were lots of other changes as well but if I would name them all we would be sitting here all day long what I'm trying to say is that all my longboard builds so far have been pretty complicated which is why in this video I will be repurposing my old long boards and combine it with some off-the-shelf components in order to create a simple version that you can easily build at home let's get started this video is sponsored by jl CPCB which is a creative PCB company since they've won the prize for outstanding booth during the Maker Faire Rome 2019 so feel free to upload yokubou files today and use their affordable service to get your own PCBs I started this builds by removing the old trucks of my long Vortech as well SD - enclosures which I originally used to store the electronics and batteries what I was left with was just a basic deck with a couple of extra holes through it so it was time to bring in the first main component of my simple electric longboard builds which were trucks with attached wheels now while the front wheels are pretty much ordinary longboard wheels the back wheels are certainly not because three wires come out of them and after removing a couple of screws from one wheel and pulling the rubber parts off as well as a metal cylinder we can see that it is actually an outer on our brushless DC motor around which a rubber wheel is placed and if you've got no idea what a BLDC motor is or how to power them then definitely watch my videos about the subject nevertheless after reassembling the wheel I hooked ordinary EEOC's up to both of them power the EEOC's with my lab bench power supply and control them alternating with my ESC tester in order to check whether both motors function correctly which they did by the way I got my hub motor kits from aliexpress for a rather high price point because the motors can handle a lot of power but you can get yourself cheaper alternatives which should also function decently moving on though after finding out the most important properties of the motors which are the KB rating power rating wheel diameter and voltage rating I continue which by securing the two trucks to my deck with the previously used bolts and nuts at this point I could use their already connected EEOC's to drive the motorist but I wanted something a bit more manually adjustable that is why I got myself two FS ESC which you can get for around $60 each they can do 50 amps continuously with a peak current of 240 amps work with 8 to 60 volts and best of all besides all the other awesome features they can utilize the ve AC software in order to fine tune all kinds of important parameters so after I sold out one outputs of an FS ESEA to a motor in order to test it I sadly realized that my power supply might not be the best test power source because not only is it limited to a current of 3 amps but it can also not store energy when the regenerative braking feature is being used now of course we could use a premade lipo battery pack as a suitable replacements but I rather want to use my favorite lithium-ion cell the INR 18 650 - 25 are the first step was to obviously pull the custom battery pack with its the motor rating states a minimum of 6 cells in series which equals a nominal voltage of 21 point 6 volts for the peg multiplying this voltage with the kV rating gives us an average rpm of 1620 and by multiplying this value with the parameter and changing unit Sabbats we get an average speed of around 25 kilometers per hour which seems acceptable of course you could put more cells in serious in order to increase the top speed of your electric long boards for my battery pack though I also decided to add a second cell in parallel to each cell in order to increase the capacity the t25 and ours anti constant current to 40 amps with peaks of up to 200 amps this periodical battery pack should be suitable for my DIY electric long boards so I use parts of an e-bike battery pack which I showed you how to create in a previous video and simply welded it to a few more cells in order to create my battery pack after than double checking that all the voltages were correct I measured the battery packs dimensions created a housing for it in 1 2 3 D design 3d printed Ed's with orange PE TG filaments soldered wires to an xc60 connector which I then glued to the enclosure with two component adhesive along with a 6s balanced connector sold out the power wires to the battery pack as well as all balanced virus and ultimately replaced the battery pack inside the enclosure in order to secure it with a bit of hot glue and closing it all up with the lids and four screws next I charged up the battery pack who have a suitable charger and then finally powered DFS ESC and connected its mini USB ports to my computer after starting the vese software I connected to the FS ESEA updated its and used the model setup wizard in order to tune the FS ESEA software parameters to the hardware parameters given by the model so after bits of motor movements the motor settings were basically in place and as soon as I said the cutoff voltages for the battery pack which is quite important to not damage it we can use the keyboard to rotate the motor brilliant but of course we cannot use these keyboards while writing the long boards which is why I got myself this Electric skateboards remote control not only can you get it for cheap but after charging it up through a micro USB port it turned out to be easily usable as well for that I so did the binding adapter into the binding channel of the receiver and pushed the FSC asea RC input header into the channel one male header then I simply had to hold the binding button on the remotes and turn it on and just like that both devices are paired now by starting the input setup wizard and playing around with the throttle control we cannot only see it that the FS ESEA receives the data signal without a problem but we can also find unity software parameters according to it and just like that my simple electric longboard setup was completes but of course before moving forward I had to connect and configure the second FS ESC as well what I did next was designing an enclosure for the FS es es which I of course 3d printed with PE T G filament as well afterwards Edward holes for 2 or 30 millimeter fans which I secured left and right next to the FS es es and which get powered by a small 12 volt buck converter this fan cooling system will hopefully keep the mosfet school during operation after than using m3 bolts and spacers to secure the 2 FS e CS in place drilling a few holes for all the wires securing the enclosure to the deck with 2 m4 bolts and nuts and also adding an 80 amp resettable fuse to the deck for obvious safety reasons it was finally time for the wiring which I will not explain and full detail here since it is pretty straightforward and you can find more information about it as always in the video description nevertheless the last step was to secure the battery pack to the tech with Velcro tape connecting it to the electronics and flipping the main power switch aka the fuse now the board seems to work just fine which means it was time to head outside activate my GPS tracker app and go for test rides now what I can say after completely emptying the battery pack is that this is the best Electric skateboards / longboard I ever used it is responsive powerful and in my opinion quite safe to write since it accelerates and decelerates softly if you want to and by checking the tracker app the board's seems to come with a top speed of around 30 km/h and a range of around 7 kilometers so all in all I'm very happy with my simple electric longboard design and I hope that this video inspires you to maybe even create something similar on your own the best feature about the spot though is that the battery pack is easily swappable which means you can easily hook up a bigger battery pack but that is a subject for another video until then don't forget to Like share subscribe and hitting the notification bell stay creative and I will see you next timehi there quick question do you remember this if not then let me tell you that this is my homemade longboard which I electrically motorized in a three part video series that I created about three years ago but as you can see on its backside it's actually not the same electrical or mechanical setup from back then this is actually an improved version version 2 of 3 to be specific and some of its improvements are the following strain gages are mounted inside the boards so that the receiver control PCB can recognize if the driver falls off there is a transmitter PCB with lithium ion charge functionality that is housed inside its own 3d printed enclosure which sends over the throttle information with an n RF 24 the motor adapter is made out of laser-cut aluminum and welded to the axis of the long boards to guarantee a safe mechanical setup there were lots of other changes as well but if I would name them all we would be sitting here all day long what I'm trying to say is that all my longboard builds so far have been pretty complicated which is why in this video I will be repurposing my old long boards and combine it with some off-the-shelf components in order to create a simple version that you can easily build at home let's get started this video is sponsored by jl CPCB which is a creative PCB company since they've won the prize for outstanding booth during the Maker Faire Rome 2019 so feel free to upload yokubou files today and use their affordable service to get your own PCBs I started this builds by removing the old trucks of my long Vortech as well SD - enclosures which I originally used to store the electronics and batteries what I was left with was just a basic deck with a couple of extra holes through it so it was time to bring in the first main component of my simple electric longboard builds which were trucks with attached wheels now while the front wheels are pretty much ordinary longboard wheels the back wheels are certainly not because three wires come out of them and after removing a couple of screws from one wheel and pulling the rubber parts off as well as a metal cylinder we can see that it is actually an outer on our brushless DC motor around which a rubber wheel is placed and if you've got no idea what a BLDC motor is or how to power them then definitely watch my videos about the subject nevertheless after reassembling the wheel I hooked ordinary EEOC's up to both of them power the EEOC's with my lab bench power supply and control them alternating with my ESC tester in order to check whether both motors function correctly which they did by the way I got my hub motor kits from aliexpress for a rather high price point because the motors can handle a lot of power but you can get yourself cheaper alternatives which should also function decently moving on though after finding out the most important properties of the motors which are the KB rating power rating wheel diameter and voltage rating I continue which by securing the two trucks to my deck with the previously used bolts and nuts at this point I could use their already connected EEOC's to drive the motorist but I wanted something a bit more manually adjustable that is why I got myself two FS ESC which you can get for around $60 each they can do 50 amps continuously with a peak current of 240 amps work with 8 to 60 volts and best of all besides all the other awesome features they can utilize the ve AC software in order to fine tune all kinds of important parameters so after I sold out one outputs of an FS ESEA to a motor in order to test it I sadly realized that my power supply might not be the best test power source because not only is it limited to a current of 3 amps but it can also not store energy when the regenerative braking feature is being used now of course we could use a premade lipo battery pack as a suitable replacements but I rather want to use my favorite lithium-ion cell the INR 18 650 - 25 are the first step was to obviously pull the custom battery pack with its the motor rating states a minimum of 6 cells in series which equals a nominal voltage of 21 point 6 volts for the peg multiplying this voltage with the kV rating gives us an average rpm of 1620 and by multiplying this value with the parameter and changing unit Sabbats we get an average speed of around 25 kilometers per hour which seems acceptable of course you could put more cells in serious in order to increase the top speed of your electric long boards for my battery pack though I also decided to add a second cell in parallel to each cell in order to increase the capacity the t25 and ours anti constant current to 40 amps with peaks of up to 200 amps this periodical battery pack should be suitable for my DIY electric long boards so I use parts of an e-bike battery pack which I showed you how to create in a previous video and simply welded it to a few more cells in order to create my battery pack after than double checking that all the voltages were correct I measured the battery packs dimensions created a housing for it in 1 2 3 D design 3d printed Ed's with orange PE TG filaments soldered wires to an xc60 connector which I then glued to the enclosure with two component adhesive along with a 6s balanced connector sold out the power wires to the battery pack as well as all balanced virus and ultimately replaced the battery pack inside the enclosure in order to secure it with a bit of hot glue and closing it all up with the lids and four screws next I charged up the battery pack who have a suitable charger and then finally powered DFS ESC and connected its mini USB ports to my computer after starting the vese software I connected to the FS ESEA updated its and used the model setup wizard in order to tune the FS ESEA software parameters to the hardware parameters given by the model so after bits of motor movements the motor settings were basically in place and as soon as I said the cutoff voltages for the battery pack which is quite important to not damage it we can use the keyboard to rotate the motor brilliant but of course we cannot use these keyboards while writing the long boards which is why I got myself this Electric skateboards remote control not only can you get it for cheap but after charging it up through a micro USB port it turned out to be easily usable as well for that I so did the binding adapter into the binding channel of the receiver and pushed the FSC asea RC input header into the channel one male header then I simply had to hold the binding button on the remotes and turn it on and just like that both devices are paired now by starting the input setup wizard and playing around with the throttle control we cannot only see it that the FS ESEA receives the data signal without a problem but we can also find unity software parameters according to it and just like that my simple electric longboard setup was completes but of course before moving forward I had to connect and configure the second FS ESC as well what I did next was designing an enclosure for the FS es es which I of course 3d printed with PE T G filament as well afterwards Edward holes for 2 or 30 millimeter fans which I secured left and right next to the FS es es and which get powered by a small 12 volt buck converter this fan cooling system will hopefully keep the mosfet school during operation after than using m3 bolts and spacers to secure the 2 FS e CS in place drilling a few holes for all the wires securing the enclosure to the deck with 2 m4 bolts and nuts and also adding an 80 amp resettable fuse to the deck for obvious safety reasons it was finally time for the wiring which I will not explain and full detail here since it is pretty straightforward and you can find more information about it as always in the video description nevertheless the last step was to secure the battery pack to the tech with Velcro tape connecting it to the electronics and flipping the main power switch aka the fuse now the board seems to work just fine which means it was time to head outside activate my GPS tracker app and go for test rides now what I can say after completely emptying the battery pack is that this is the best Electric skateboards / longboard I ever used it is responsive powerful and in my opinion quite safe to write since it accelerates and decelerates softly if you want to and by checking the tracker app the board's seems to come with a top speed of around 30 km/h and a range of around 7 kilometers so all in all I'm very happy with my simple electric longboard design and I hope that this video inspires you to maybe even create something similar on your own the best feature about the spot though is that the battery pack is easily swappable which means you can easily hook up a bigger battery pack but that is a subject for another video until then don't forget to Like share subscribe and hitting the notification bell stay creative and I will see you next time