Connecting the Ducting System: A Step-by-Step Guide

When it comes to creating an efficient and effective air system, connecting the ducting pieces is crucial. In this article, we will walk through the process of lining up two pieces that need to connect, aiming the output towards the outer wall, and solving common problems that may arise during the process.

To start, we need to line up the two pieces of ducting that require connection. One piece has a tapered end, which makes it easy to slide into place with another piece. However, in this case, one of the pieces had to be cut down short. Fortunately, the elbows on both pieces have a taper, making it easier to align them together. The author used a cut-off wheel on a grinder to make precise cuts.

The blower being used runs on 1/10 horsepower and pulls only 8 amps, which makes it suitable for this project. To test its effectiveness, the author plugged in the blower and pulled out some sawdust along the ducting. The result was impressive, with the blower drawing air all the way to the front of the system.

To further improve the system, a Y-connector with a blast gate was added. This allowed the author to hook up their laser, which creates an exhaust that needs to be sent outside. By using this setup, the author could plumb the laser into the same system as the blower. The final connection was made into the reduction box on the back of the paint booth, and the system was ready for testing.

The test results were promising, with the blower working efficiently and drawing in plenty of air. However, there was one issue that needed to be addressed: a large hole had to be drilled in the brick wall to allow the dryer vent to exit. The author used a masonry hole saw, which has a diamond tip that is designed to cut through brick and mortar. Despite some initial difficulties, the author managed to drill a pilot hole all the way through and then use a reciprocating saw to clear out the plywood behind.

However, when the dryer vent was inserted, it became apparent that there were some issues with the brickwork on the outside of the wall. The author had not thought through how the hole would interact with the protruding bricks and would need to seal up the gaps later. To solve this problem, the author replaced the four-inch pipe with six-inch pipe, which created a larger diameter input that could draw more air.

The result was significant, with the blower working much better than before. The author tested the system again using spray paint, held their breath, and walked around the shop to see if they could smell the fumes. To their surprise, they couldn't detect any odors in the entire shop except right near the baffle where the paint was being applied.

In conclusion, creating an air system like this requires careful planning and attention to detail. By following these steps and solving common problems along the way, you can create a efficient and effective system that works well for your specific needs. Whether you're working on a small project or a large-scale installation, these tips and tricks will help you achieve success.

Using Larger Diameter Pipe

If you need a larger diameter input to draw more air into your system, be aware that there are options available. Six-inch pipe worked well in this instance, but you may need to go up to eight-inch or even twelve-inch pipe depending on your specific requirements. It's essential to choose the right size of pipe for your needs to ensure optimal performance.

Using a Metal Flexible Hose

In some cases, it may be easier to use a metal flexible hose instead of trying to cut pieces to fit and align them perfectly. The author found this to be true in their experience, as they were able to slide the hose into place with ease. This solution can save time and effort, especially if you're working on a complex system.

Tips for Drilling Holes

Drilling holes in brick or mortar can be challenging, but there are some tips and tricks that can make the process easier. Using a masonry hole saw is essential, as it is designed to cut through these materials safely and efficiently. It's also crucial to take your time and work carefully when drilling to avoid damaging the surrounding area.

Sealing Gaps

One of the challenges of creating an air system like this is sealing gaps and holes in the brickwork. The author encountered this issue when trying to connect the dryer vent, but was able to solve it by replacing the four-inch pipe with six-inch pipe. It's essential to take care when drilling and clearing out areas to avoid creating more problems than you solve.

Conclusion

Creating an air system like this requires careful planning, attention to detail, and a willingness to problem-solve. By following these steps and using the right materials, you can create a efficient and effective system that works well for your specific needs. Whether you're working on a small project or a large-scale installation, these tips and tricks will help you achieve success.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhey I'm Bob and I like to make stuff today I'm gonna make paint booth back in my old shop I made a portable paint booth so that I could fold it up and stow it away but now that I have more room I want to make a really big paint booth one of the reasons I need this thing is to take all the fumes from the paint out of the house so they don't go upstairs so I want to paint right here and send all the fumes out there the heart of the paint booth is going to be this furnace blower because it moves a ton of air one of the dangers of using a fan in a paint booth is moving flammable vapours over an electric motor there's a potential for explosion but in this case the motor is actually separate from the fans so we're going to draw all the air in here and move it out the bottom and it's never gonna pass over the motor but before we do this we got to build the booth after some quick planning I just cut down a bunch of pieces of 2x4 to make the frame for the paint booth the booth was made up of two simple frames that were butt jointed two by fours and those two frames were connected with more two by fours using pocket hole screws pretty much everything in this project came from a home center it's all very common material and even though they're 2x4 scraps I don't want to waste them I tried to make this out of stuff that you could easily get a hold of and it's easily scalable you can make this entire thing any size that you want I just made it to fit the space that I had I'm pretty lucky that my concrete floor is really level just make sure you have a nice flat surface to build these on so that they end up straight when you get the whole thing put together I made the back frame and now I've got to put in two supports to hold a reduction box that will also hold the filters you could use just about anything for this reduction box even cardboard I use luan which is a 3/16 plywood it's really lightweight and cheap I did use a piece of half-inch plywood for the back panel it's a little bit thicker which gave me a surface to shoot Brad nails into on the last side panel I drew a 4-inch circle to match the size of pipe that I had drilled a hole and then used a jig saw to cut it out and this doesn't have to be a perfect circle it's going to get sealed up with some duct tape once I get the whole thing put together I made this reduction box to fit right in between those two support two-by-fours on the back frame I knocked it into place and made sure that the front edge was flush with the front of the two by fours and then secured it with a couple of screws the overall structure is about finished and now we're going to work in the filter box and this does a couple of things we're going to build a baffle on the front to catch most of the particulates and then there'll be a filter behind that to help with the vapors the point of this whole thing is to get the vapor out of the shop I cut down a few pieces of scrap wood to make a simple stop frame on the inside of this box it's really just two vertical pieces so that the filters could set up against them and then another cross piece in the middle to separate the two filters the purpose of the baffles is to grab the paint before it gets to the filter so we're gonna add some extra surfaces so the air has to move around them and hopefully those surfaces will grab the paint and it doesn't get stuck to the filter and the filters will last a little bit longer now you can do this just by drilling a bunch of holes on two sheets and then offsetting those sheets so the air has to move around but we're gonna use the laser and do something a little bit more interesting I cut two smaller pieces of half-inch plywood to act as a spacer between the front and the back panel of the baffle those panels were made out of luan I took advantage of the pass-through feature of my laser to slide it in from the front cut a design and then slide it further through this is the first time I'd use this and I didn't get everything quite aligned but it still functionally works the same if you get used to that it would be really handy for making repeating patterns on a large piece of material you could cover the paint booth in just about any material even some plastic drop cloths that would cover a huge area and be really inexpensive I chose to use white chloroplasts which is a corrugated plastic often used in political signs I bought four by eight sheets of it which is great because I could make a large panel on the side cut halfway through the corrugations and then use the material itself as a hinge for the door the material cuts really well with a utility knife or a saw and you can just drive screws in it to hold it to the two by fours it also lets quite a bit of light through which is really handy in a paint booth since you want to have the object that you're painting pretty well lit you can hang lights on all sides of this and get light coming in from every direction I got all the panels cut and screw them onto the different faces adding the two side panels which like I said before created a hinge so that there were two large doors on the front and instead of using the chloroplasts for the floor I used a thin piece of MDF in case I needed to put a stand in there to hold something that was being painted I also wanted to point out that having a drywall square like this is really good for cutting down four by eight sheets of material it's a very inexpensive but handy tool to have around the shop after I got all of these panels put on I added a light to the top of this just by making a shop light with an external switch that was plugged into the wall this made a huge difference and really lit up the inside of the booth part of the reason for the doors is to add more depth to the booth so that more overspray stays on the inside of it I cut down another piece to act as the top and then use duct tape as a hinge the baffles were made by attaching the two pieces of luan with a small half inch spacer in between them making sure that the holes were offset between the front and the back panels there were two of these that added up together to be the width of the filters inside the booth I split it into two pieces so that they would fit through the laser and to hang these in front of the filters we just rolled some holes in the two-by-fours the same size as the dowel rods that we had and then cut down rods to fit those holes lined up with the ones we drilled inside the baffles and once the dowels were in place the baffles slid right on making it really easy to take them on and off to change out the filters when needed after that was all done I pulled out the baffles and the filters and then used a whole bunch of duct tape to try to seal up all the seams of the material I wanted to make sure that I was drawing air from the correct places and not through any of the seams unknowingly because that will cut down on the pressure actually went through a whole lot of tape on this project sealing up all of the different parts but also using it as a hinge it works really great with this material as well and they are not sponsoring this video but I will have to say that Gorilla Tape seems to be the stickiest and longest lasting tape I've used like this I used the tape here to add a bottom panel to the side door so that when I open the doors this panel would flop down and create a floor and I had to come out further than the door so that any overspray that fell down would hopefully fall on the white material and not on the floor I also cut another corrugation next to the one I had previously cut for the door so that there was actually a two-point hinge giving it enough space to bend around this extra material that flopped down onto the floor to seal the gap against the booth I added another little gasket making a piece of tape from the top and the bottom they covered the gap when the floor fell down I was already beginning to see the top panel sag a little bit when it was setting on top of the two doors at drew on a straight line in between the two door corners and cut it down to size and then used an L bracket from my drop ceiling to add a bracket across the front to give it some strength we just bent the L down to a V and then pushed it onto the front face it made it much stronger it worked great after that the booth was pretty much done then it was on to the exhaust system big thanks to Kasper for sponsoring this video and a bunch of my other ones they're my longest-running sponsor because I honestly really love the company my entire family sleeps on Casper mattresses cuz they're super comfortable and if you want to try one out for yourself you order it on their website they send it to you in a big box and then you can sleep on it in your house for a hundred nights if you don't like it for any reason whatsoever they will give you your money back and come take the mattress away they've got three different mattresses now the classic the wave and the essential and if you want to check those out go to casper calm slash il TMS and if you use the code il TMS at checkout you get fifty bucks off any mattress purchase you get free shipping and returns in the US and Canada terms and conditions apply be sure to go check them out thanks Casper the booth is about complete and now it's time to run the exhaust we're going to use this ducting for this you have flexible joints you can kind of change angles and the stuff just kind of snaps together we'll go back and seal up all the joints with some duct tape and we'll get it to the front of the house we can exhaust it outside we ran about 40 feet of ducting here and had to go through some drywall which is as simple as cutting a hole to run it through I used some strap hanger to hold it up to some pieces of wood mounted on the side of the wall and then we had to figure out how to connect it to the 17-inch opening of the furnace blower to do this we made a cone-shaped adapter that went from four inches at the top to 17 inches at the bottom there was a little math involved to figure out the circumference of both of those circle sizes but then we used a flexible piece of material to draw two curves with the same center point after cutting those out of the sheet metal and rounding this piece over we had a nice consistent cone I intentionally left a little flap on one side of this so that I could fold it over and clamp it in that overlap I drilled some holes and then dropped in some rivets to hold it together I dropped in one of the elbows for this piping which are really handy because you can change the angle of them with that in place I sealed up all the openings with some duct tape and then had to figure out how to attach it to the blower I decided to cut some small slits all the way around the long side and fold those out as tabs this gave me a nice even surface to lay against the outside housing of the blower and screw it in place with some sheet metal screws I got a large air conditioning adapter to put on the output side of the blower as well and had to cut down the corners to make sure that it fit before sealing it up not every piece of this ducting fits together like you expect it to but it's really nice and thin so you can cut slits to make sure that you can force it into place since this is a furnace blower it brings in and puts out a whole lot of air probably more than we need we've got to come up from a four-inch line to be able to meet the side of it and then we have to go back down to a four inch line to get out that is restricting some of the flow but in this case it really doesn't matter it's going to move enough air it doesn't matter that it's gonna have to slow it down to send it out here the fan for the furnace actually draws in air from both sides but I needed to block up one side so that everything was drawn through the piping that I'd put in place I cut a large circle out of flashing put a line to the center and then knocked out a circle in the middle to make sure that it would fit in place I use sheet metal screws to screw this right into the housing of the fan and then added some tape of course to seal it up after that was fully working I had to make a really simple stand to actually hold the blower and get it off the ground one thing that was kind of weird though was that it needed to be setting on its side and on the bottom was the motor in the pulley so it could not sit on a flat surface this was very quick and dirty and very simple two-by-four construction and it was basically the same tool stand that I've made many times before the one difference in this case is that one of the top supports was actually dropped down to account for the height of the pulley the weight of the entire blower was still sitting on the other three sides and it actually worked out just fine once I got this set into place I drove in a couple more screws to secure it to the side of the two-by-fours the big reason that the fan needed to set in this orientation was so that my cone was facing up toward the ducting that I'd put in these adjustable elbows help me line up the two pieces that needed to connect and aim the output toward the outer wall these pieces of ducting have one tapered end so you can usually slide two pieces together pretty easily in this case I had to cut one of them down short but the good thing is that the elbows also have that taper this stuff cuts very easily with a cut-off wheel on a grinder the blower I'm using runs on 1/10 and it only pulls 8 amps so it doesn't need any special power requirements I just plugged it in and did a test and it pulled plenty of sawdust all the way to the front of the system along the ducting I added a Y connector with a blast gate so that I could hook up my laser the laser creates an awful exhaust that you have to send outside and this was a great way to plumb it into the same system I also made the final connection into the reduction box on the back of the paint booth and then it was ready to do some tests got the blower hooked up finally did some tests and it's all good up to this point now we just have to get it out of the garage and rather than opening the garage door every time I'm gonna put a hole in my house right here to shoot it outside I've actually been putting this off as long as possible but now I have to drill a very large hole in the brick using this masonry hole saw this has got a diamond tip on it so theoretically it'll cut through that but I've never actually done this before I've got the hole drilled kind of as far as I can go this thing is not as deep as a brick so I've gotten all the way in and now I'm gonna have to drill a pilot all the way through and come in from the other side unless I can knock some of this out and then keep drilling from the side it turned out that I was able to knock out the extra pieces of brick and mortar but one of the dangers here is knocking out too much mortar around the other bricks and actually ending up making the hole bigger than it needs to be I took my time here and only lost one small piece of mortar at the top but it just took a while eventually I got all the brick out of the way and found the plywood behind it the masonry hole saw doesn't have teeth like a saw blade wood so it didn't want to cut the wood it was just trying to burn it I drilled a pilot hole all the way through and then used a reciprocating saw to cut away the circle of plywood eventually I got it completely cleared out and slid in the dryer vent unfortunately I didn't think about how that hole was going to interact with the bricks that were protruding on the outside of the wall but I'll have to seal up those gaps later to connect this to the system I used a metal flexible hose this was way easier than trying to cut pieces to fit and make sure the angles were correct with the entire system in place I did a test with some spray paint and it worked but not as well as I had hoped the problem was the 17 inch opening going down to a four inch pipe it just wasn't drawing enough air so after I finished this video almost completely I went back and pulled out all the four inch pipe and replaced everything with six inch just a few minutes ago I got everything replaced with six inch so I just did another test and it works wave way better I actually held my breath sprayed some spray paint in here and then walked around the shop in two different places and took in a big breath to see if I could smell the fumes I couldn't smell it anywhere in the entire shop except right here and that's actually probably the fumes that are coming off the paint on the baffle there anyway if you make a system like this the larger diameter input that you can create the more air it's gonna draw the more efficiently it's gonna work six inch was the largest pipe that we could find locally at a store you could probably go up to eight ten or even twelve inch if that's a requirement for you but just so you know six inch works pretty well I know this was kind of a long video and a lot of stuff in it but I hope you found some useful information in it and if you did I'd love to know so let me know down in the comments please I've got lots and lots of other types of projects that you may be interested in so be sure to check some of those out and don't forget to subscribe if you are subscribed don't forget to hit the bell down there so you get notified as soon as I put up a new video that's it for this one guys thanks for watching I'll see you next time deducting this stuff just just press just fits together there is one small problem and I amhey I'm Bob and I like to make stuff today I'm gonna make paint booth back in my old shop I made a portable paint booth so that I could fold it up and stow it away but now that I have more room I want to make a really big paint booth one of the reasons I need this thing is to take all the fumes from the paint out of the house so they don't go upstairs so I want to paint right here and send all the fumes out there the heart of the paint booth is going to be this furnace blower because it moves a ton of air one of the dangers of using a fan in a paint booth is moving flammable vapours over an electric motor there's a potential for explosion but in this case the motor is actually separate from the fans so we're going to draw all the air in here and move it out the bottom and it's never gonna pass over the motor but before we do this we got to build the booth after some quick planning I just cut down a bunch of pieces of 2x4 to make the frame for the paint booth the booth was made up of two simple frames that were butt jointed two by fours and those two frames were connected with more two by fours using pocket hole screws pretty much everything in this project came from a home center it's all very common material and even though they're 2x4 scraps I don't want to waste them I tried to make this out of stuff that you could easily get a hold of and it's easily scalable you can make this entire thing any size that you want I just made it to fit the space that I had I'm pretty lucky that my concrete floor is really level just make sure you have a nice flat surface to build these on so that they end up straight when you get the whole thing put together I made the back frame and now I've got to put in two supports to hold a reduction box that will also hold the filters you could use just about anything for this reduction box even cardboard I use luan which is a 3/16 plywood it's really lightweight and cheap I did use a piece of half-inch plywood for the back panel it's a little bit thicker which gave me a surface to shoot Brad nails into on the last side panel I drew a 4-inch circle to match the size of pipe that I had drilled a hole and then used a jig saw to cut it out and this doesn't have to be a perfect circle it's going to get sealed up with some duct tape once I get the whole thing put together I made this reduction box to fit right in between those two support two-by-fours on the back frame I knocked it into place and made sure that the front edge was flush with the front of the two by fours and then secured it with a couple of screws the overall structure is about finished and now we're going to work in the filter box and this does a couple of things we're going to build a baffle on the front to catch most of the particulates and then there'll be a filter behind that to help with the vapors the point of this whole thing is to get the vapor out of the shop I cut down a few pieces of scrap wood to make a simple stop frame on the inside of this box it's really just two vertical pieces so that the filters could set up against them and then another cross piece in the middle to separate the two filters the purpose of the baffles is to grab the paint before it gets to the filter so we're gonna add some extra surfaces so the air has to move around them and hopefully those surfaces will grab the paint and it doesn't get stuck to the filter and the filters will last a little bit longer now you can do this just by drilling a bunch of holes on two sheets and then offsetting those sheets so the air has to move around but we're gonna use the laser and do something a little bit more interesting I cut two smaller pieces of half-inch plywood to act as a spacer between the front and the back panel of the baffle those panels were made out of luan I took advantage of the pass-through feature of my laser to slide it in from the front cut a design and then slide it further through this is the first time I'd use this and I didn't get everything quite aligned but it still functionally works the same if you get used to that it would be really handy for making repeating patterns on a large piece of material you could cover the paint booth in just about any material even some plastic drop cloths that would cover a huge area and be really inexpensive I chose to use white chloroplasts which is a corrugated plastic often used in political signs I bought four by eight sheets of it which is great because I could make a large panel on the side cut halfway through the corrugations and then use the material itself as a hinge for the door the material cuts really well with a utility knife or a saw and you can just drive screws in it to hold it to the two by fours it also lets quite a bit of light through which is really handy in a paint booth since you want to have the object that you're painting pretty well lit you can hang lights on all sides of this and get light coming in from every direction I got all the panels cut and screw them onto the different faces adding the two side panels which like I said before created a hinge so that there were two large doors on the front and instead of using the chloroplasts for the floor I used a thin piece of MDF in case I needed to put a stand in there to hold something that was being painted I also wanted to point out that having a drywall square like this is really good for cutting down four by eight sheets of material it's a very inexpensive but handy tool to have around the shop after I got all of these panels put on I added a light to the top of this just by making a shop light with an external switch that was plugged into the wall this made a huge difference and really lit up the inside of the booth part of the reason for the doors is to add more depth to the booth so that more overspray stays on the inside of it I cut down another piece to act as the top and then use duct tape as a hinge the baffles were made by attaching the two pieces of luan with a small half inch spacer in between them making sure that the holes were offset between the front and the back panels there were two of these that added up together to be the width of the filters inside the booth I split it into two pieces so that they would fit through the laser and to hang these in front of the filters we just rolled some holes in the two-by-fours the same size as the dowel rods that we had and then cut down rods to fit those holes lined up with the ones we drilled inside the baffles and once the dowels were in place the baffles slid right on making it really easy to take them on and off to change out the filters when needed after that was all done I pulled out the baffles and the filters and then used a whole bunch of duct tape to try to seal up all the seams of the material I wanted to make sure that I was drawing air from the correct places and not through any of the seams unknowingly because that will cut down on the pressure actually went through a whole lot of tape on this project sealing up all of the different parts but also using it as a hinge it works really great with this material as well and they are not sponsoring this video but I will have to say that Gorilla Tape seems to be the stickiest and longest lasting tape I've used like this I used the tape here to add a bottom panel to the side door so that when I open the doors this panel would flop down and create a floor and I had to come out further than the door so that any overspray that fell down would hopefully fall on the white material and not on the floor I also cut another corrugation next to the one I had previously cut for the door so that there was actually a two-point hinge giving it enough space to bend around this extra material that flopped down onto the floor to seal the gap against the booth I added another little gasket making a piece of tape from the top and the bottom they covered the gap when the floor fell down I was already beginning to see the top panel sag a little bit when it was setting on top of the two doors at drew on a straight line in between the two door corners and cut it down to size and then used an L bracket from my drop ceiling to add a bracket across the front to give it some strength we just bent the L down to a V and then pushed it onto the front face it made it much stronger it worked great after that the booth was pretty much done then it was on to the exhaust system big thanks to Kasper for sponsoring this video and a bunch of my other ones they're my longest-running sponsor because I honestly really love the company my entire family sleeps on Casper mattresses cuz they're super comfortable and if you want to try one out for yourself you order it on their website they send it to you in a big box and then you can sleep on it in your house for a hundred nights if you don't like it for any reason whatsoever they will give you your money back and come take the mattress away they've got three different mattresses now the classic the wave and the essential and if you want to check those out go to casper calm slash il TMS and if you use the code il TMS at checkout you get fifty bucks off any mattress purchase you get free shipping and returns in the US and Canada terms and conditions apply be sure to go check them out thanks Casper the booth is about complete and now it's time to run the exhaust we're going to use this ducting for this you have flexible joints you can kind of change angles and the stuff just kind of snaps together we'll go back and seal up all the joints with some duct tape and we'll get it to the front of the house we can exhaust it outside we ran about 40 feet of ducting here and had to go through some drywall which is as simple as cutting a hole to run it through I used some strap hanger to hold it up to some pieces of wood mounted on the side of the wall and then we had to figure out how to connect it to the 17-inch opening of the furnace blower to do this we made a cone-shaped adapter that went from four inches at the top to 17 inches at the bottom there was a little math involved to figure out the circumference of both of those circle sizes but then we used a flexible piece of material to draw two curves with the same center point after cutting those out of the sheet metal and rounding this piece over we had a nice consistent cone I intentionally left a little flap on one side of this so that I could fold it over and clamp it in that overlap I drilled some holes and then dropped in some rivets to hold it together I dropped in one of the elbows for this piping which are really handy because you can change the angle of them with that in place I sealed up all the openings with some duct tape and then had to figure out how to attach it to the blower I decided to cut some small slits all the way around the long side and fold those out as tabs this gave me a nice even surface to lay against the outside housing of the blower and screw it in place with some sheet metal screws I got a large air conditioning adapter to put on the output side of the blower as well and had to cut down the corners to make sure that it fit before sealing it up not every piece of this ducting fits together like you expect it to but it's really nice and thin so you can cut slits to make sure that you can force it into place since this is a furnace blower it brings in and puts out a whole lot of air probably more than we need we've got to come up from a four-inch line to be able to meet the side of it and then we have to go back down to a four inch line to get out that is restricting some of the flow but in this case it really doesn't matter it's going to move enough air it doesn't matter that it's gonna have to slow it down to send it out here the fan for the furnace actually draws in air from both sides but I needed to block up one side so that everything was drawn through the piping that I'd put in place I cut a large circle out of flashing put a line to the center and then knocked out a circle in the middle to make sure that it would fit in place I use sheet metal screws to screw this right into the housing of the fan and then added some tape of course to seal it up after that was fully working I had to make a really simple stand to actually hold the blower and get it off the ground one thing that was kind of weird though was that it needed to be setting on its side and on the bottom was the motor in the pulley so it could not sit on a flat surface this was very quick and dirty and very simple two-by-four construction and it was basically the same tool stand that I've made many times before the one difference in this case is that one of the top supports was actually dropped down to account for the height of the pulley the weight of the entire blower was still sitting on the other three sides and it actually worked out just fine once I got this set into place I drove in a couple more screws to secure it to the side of the two-by-fours the big reason that the fan needed to set in this orientation was so that my cone was facing up toward the ducting that I'd put in these adjustable elbows help me line up the two pieces that needed to connect and aim the output toward the outer wall these pieces of ducting have one tapered end so you can usually slide two pieces together pretty easily in this case I had to cut one of them down short but the good thing is that the elbows also have that taper this stuff cuts very easily with a cut-off wheel on a grinder the blower I'm using runs on 1/10 and it only pulls 8 amps so it doesn't need any special power requirements I just plugged it in and did a test and it pulled plenty of sawdust all the way to the front of the system along the ducting I added a Y connector with a blast gate so that I could hook up my laser the laser creates an awful exhaust that you have to send outside and this was a great way to plumb it into the same system I also made the final connection into the reduction box on the back of the paint booth and then it was ready to do some tests got the blower hooked up finally did some tests and it's all good up to this point now we just have to get it out of the garage and rather than opening the garage door every time I'm gonna put a hole in my house right here to shoot it outside I've actually been putting this off as long as possible but now I have to drill a very large hole in the brick using this masonry hole saw this has got a diamond tip on it so theoretically it'll cut through that but I've never actually done this before I've got the hole drilled kind of as far as I can go this thing is not as deep as a brick so I've gotten all the way in and now I'm gonna have to drill a pilot all the way through and come in from the other side unless I can knock some of this out and then keep drilling from the side it turned out that I was able to knock out the extra pieces of brick and mortar but one of the dangers here is knocking out too much mortar around the other bricks and actually ending up making the hole bigger than it needs to be I took my time here and only lost one small piece of mortar at the top but it just took a while eventually I got all the brick out of the way and found the plywood behind it the masonry hole saw doesn't have teeth like a saw blade wood so it didn't want to cut the wood it was just trying to burn it I drilled a pilot hole all the way through and then used a reciprocating saw to cut away the circle of plywood eventually I got it completely cleared out and slid in the dryer vent unfortunately I didn't think about how that hole was going to interact with the bricks that were protruding on the outside of the wall but I'll have to seal up those gaps later to connect this to the system I used a metal flexible hose this was way easier than trying to cut pieces to fit and make sure the angles were correct with the entire system in place I did a test with some spray paint and it worked but not as well as I had hoped the problem was the 17 inch opening going down to a four inch pipe it just wasn't drawing enough air so after I finished this video almost completely I went back and pulled out all the four inch pipe and replaced everything with six inch just a few minutes ago I got everything replaced with six inch so I just did another test and it works wave way better I actually held my breath sprayed some spray paint in here and then walked around the shop in two different places and took in a big breath to see if I could smell the fumes I couldn't smell it anywhere in the entire shop except right here and that's actually probably the fumes that are coming off the paint on the baffle there anyway if you make a system like this the larger diameter input that you can create the more air it's gonna draw the more efficiently it's gonna work six inch was the largest pipe that we could find locally at a store you could probably go up to eight ten or even twelve inch if that's a requirement for you but just so you know six inch works pretty well I know this was kind of a long video and a lot of stuff in it but I hope you found some useful information in it and if you did I'd love to know so let me know down in the comments please I've got lots and lots of other types of projects that you may be interested in so be sure to check some of those out and don't forget to subscribe if you are subscribed don't forget to hit the bell down there so you get notified as soon as I put up a new video that's it for this one guys thanks for watching I'll see you next time deducting this stuff just just press just fits together there is one small problem and I am\n"