Here's the rewritten article based on the original content:

**Introduction**

I'm excited to share my experience with this 3D printer kit, and I hope that they have a better documentation now for this new version. Moving on, here are my advices by using this machine.

**Motor Belt and Extruder Movement**

Most importantly, make sure that the motor belt, which is used to move the extruder or the bed around, is really tight and cannot move around without moving the extruder or the bed. Otherwise, the belt can slip over the gear and totally ruin the rest of your print. Yes, that was one of my biggest problems.

**Stable Workspace**

It's also a good idea to choose a heavy and stable workspace for a printer because the vibrations which occur can influence the build quality. But with this stable workspace comes a smoother surface, and my printer surely loves to slide over it. We can stop him from doing this by adding six rubber feets to the acrylic glass and to the motors of the z-axis.

**Extruder Motor Screws**

Also make sure that the extruder motor screws are fastened in a way that the grip on the print material is as strong as possible. Otherwise, it could be that there is not enough force to push the PLA or ABS into the heated extruder heads.

**Calibrating Z Height**

Lastly, take your time while calibrating the Z height. This is crucial and can mess up your entire print if the Z height is not even over the whole X and Y axis. All the prints don't even start correctly if the distance between extruder and bed is too big or too small. I always like to put the extruder in the highest position and then use the rods individually to level it out. Then, I hold my z-axis and usually get an even extruder height when all the four screws on the bed are positioned correctly.

**Position Switches**

Let's talk about those and position switches. I hate them so much; they fix this in their new version. But here they give you those cheap horrible design clamps which do not grip the rod hard enough. I had to tighten the nuts so hard that the plastic broke after a short amount of usage.

**Better Clamps**

But once I understood some basics of 3D printing, I went ahead and printed those better clamps which the seller offers on the DVD. They work so much better and do an excellent job of securing the limit switches to a fixed position.

**Mainframe and Acrylic Glass**

My next complaint is about the mainframe. I agree that the acrylic glass does look nice, but it's a brittle material when you tighten it not too hard. It can happen that the glass will break, resulting in this not nice situation. But hey, I have a 3D printer so I can repair it by printing a new copy which fits very nicely.

**Printing on Glass Pad**

Once you're ready for a frost print, then think again. I saw pictures of people using the glass pad to print on but that does not work for me at all. The melted plastic just wouldn't stick to the glass. So, I bought myself this white blue painter's tape which offers a rougher surface without creating a pattern on the 3D prints.

**Calibrating Z Home Position**

Let's calibrate the Z home position by using a piece of paper. It should still be able to move underneath the extruder heads but not completely free and loose. Now, the print can begin. But even if you follow all my advices, I would say that one of three prints oryx success at best.

**Final Thoughts**

Yes, it really is that frustrating, and there are just too many variables that could go wrong along the way. I printed myself this SD card holder which is a nice addition to my workbench. All those clamps which can hold the LCD of my printer and secure it nicely to the mainframe.

**Recommendation**

At the end, I can say that such a kit is relatively cheap if you compare it to other 3D printers. I can recommend it to everyone who does not have an anger problem and just wants to experiment with this technology.

**Conclusion**

If you want to see more videos about 3D printing, then this video alike because this was just an introduction to the topic and there's plenty more to cover. I also thought about making an opto print tutorial or maybe an introduction to the software part. What do you think? Let me hear your thoughts in the comment section below.

As always, thanks for watching, stay creative, and I will see you next time!

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enabout six months ago I decided to buy myself a DIY 3d printer kids this Prusa i3 kids cost me around 380 US dollars and as you can see my print quality reached a point where I can say it looks ok not good or perfect but okay because 3d printing can be very difficult and frustrating process that is why I will tell you now all my experiences I had with this machine starting with the builds over to the first test with all the problems that occurred and at the end I will show you some prints that came out quite nice let's get started I received this huge box two weeks after I ordered my printer all electrical and mechanical parts were safely stored and they had no damages whatsoever and I didn't even need my own tools to build this thing they deliver you everything that's necessary but having some extras around is always nice but not mandatory all the build instructions are documented on a DVD and this is where our problem starts they offer you three tutorials which all very little bits at some point this made things a bit confusing during the builds and I think that I wasted around 2 hours because of that especially at the end important steps were just missing because the instructions were not updated properly over time this extruder motor is a good example in the video they show you that you need an upper port to connect it to the mainframe but here's the surprise the port doesn't exist I searched half an hour before I realized that another instruction wasn't using this part entirely so you basically just need a bit of creativity to complete these kids but they already updated this old model and hopefully they have a better documentation now for this new version moving on here are my advices by using this machine most importantly make sure that the motor belt which is used to move the extruder or the bed around is really tight and cannot move around without moving the extruder or the bats otherwise the belt can slip over the gear and totally ruin the rest of your print and yes that was one of my biggest problems it is also a good idea to choose a heavy and stable workspace for a printer because the vibrations which occur can influence the build quality but with this stable workspace comes a smoother surface and my printer surely loves to slide over it we can stop him from doing this by adding six rubber feeds to the acrylic glass and to the motors of the z-axis also make sure that the extruder motor screws are fastened in a way that the grip on the print material is as strong as possible otherwise it could be that there is not enough force to push the PLA or abs into the heated extruder heads and lastly take your time while calibrating the Z height this is crucial and can mess up your entire print if the Z height is not even over the whole X and y axis all the prints does not even start correctly if the distance between extruder and bed is too big or too small I always like to put the extruder in the highest position and then use the rods individually to level it out then I hold my z-axis and usually get an even extruder height when all the four screws on the bed are positioned correctly now let's talk about those and position switches I hate them so much they fix this in their new version but here they give you those cheap horrible design clamps which do not grip the rod hard enough I had to tighten the nuts so hard that the plastic broke after a short amount of usage but once I understood some basics of 3d printing I went ahead and printed those better clamps which the teller offers on the DVD they work so much better and do an excellent job of securing the limit switches to a fixed position my next complaint is about the mainframe I agree that the acrylic glass does look nice but it's a brittle material when you tighten it not too hard it can happen that the glass will break resulting in this not nice situation but hey I have a 3d printer so I can repair it by printing a new copy which fits very nicely now I have a Frankenstein 3d printer and I bet another break will happen in the future once you Orbach than me things that you are ready for a frost print then think again I saw pictures of people using the glass pad to print on but that does not work for me at all the melted plastic just wouldn't stick to the glass so I bought myself this white blue painters tape which offers a rougher surface without creating a pattern on the 3d prints I laid it down on my desk and lowered my glass bed slowly onto it make sure that everything is smooth and no air bubbles are trapped underneath the tape now let's calibrate the Z home position by using a piece of paper it should still be able to move underneath the extruder heads but not completely free and loose now the print can begin but even if you follow all my advices I would say that one of three prints oryx success at best yes it really is that frustrating and there are just too many variables that could go wrong along the way I printed myself this SD card holder which is a nice addition to my workbench all those clamps which can hold the LCD of my printer and secure it nicely to the mainframe and luckily they fix this problem in the new version at the end I can say that such a kit is relatively cheap if you compare it to other 3d printers I can recommend it to everyone who does not have an anger problem and just wants to experiment with this technology if you want to see more videos about 3d printing then this video alike because this was just an introduction to the topic and there's plenty more to cover I also thought about making an opto print tutorial or maybe an introduction to the software part what do you think let me hear your thoughts in the comment section below as always thanks for watching stay creative and I will see you next timeabout six months ago I decided to buy myself a DIY 3d printer kids this Prusa i3 kids cost me around 380 US dollars and as you can see my print quality reached a point where I can say it looks ok not good or perfect but okay because 3d printing can be very difficult and frustrating process that is why I will tell you now all my experiences I had with this machine starting with the builds over to the first test with all the problems that occurred and at the end I will show you some prints that came out quite nice let's get started I received this huge box two weeks after I ordered my printer all electrical and mechanical parts were safely stored and they had no damages whatsoever and I didn't even need my own tools to build this thing they deliver you everything that's necessary but having some extras around is always nice but not mandatory all the build instructions are documented on a DVD and this is where our problem starts they offer you three tutorials which all very little bits at some point this made things a bit confusing during the builds and I think that I wasted around 2 hours because of that especially at the end important steps were just missing because the instructions were not updated properly over time this extruder motor is a good example in the video they show you that you need an upper port to connect it to the mainframe but here's the surprise the port doesn't exist I searched half an hour before I realized that another instruction wasn't using this part entirely so you basically just need a bit of creativity to complete these kids but they already updated this old model and hopefully they have a better documentation now for this new version moving on here are my advices by using this machine most importantly make sure that the motor belt which is used to move the extruder or the bed around is really tight and cannot move around without moving the extruder or the bats otherwise the belt can slip over the gear and totally ruin the rest of your print and yes that was one of my biggest problems it is also a good idea to choose a heavy and stable workspace for a printer because the vibrations which occur can influence the build quality but with this stable workspace comes a smoother surface and my printer surely loves to slide over it we can stop him from doing this by adding six rubber feeds to the acrylic glass and to the motors of the z-axis also make sure that the extruder motor screws are fastened in a way that the grip on the print material is as strong as possible otherwise it could be that there is not enough force to push the PLA or abs into the heated extruder heads and lastly take your time while calibrating the Z height this is crucial and can mess up your entire print if the Z height is not even over the whole X and y axis all the prints does not even start correctly if the distance between extruder and bed is too big or too small I always like to put the extruder in the highest position and then use the rods individually to level it out then I hold my z-axis and usually get an even extruder height when all the four screws on the bed are positioned correctly now let's talk about those and position switches I hate them so much they fix this in their new version but here they give you those cheap horrible design clamps which do not grip the rod hard enough I had to tighten the nuts so hard that the plastic broke after a short amount of usage but once I understood some basics of 3d printing I went ahead and printed those better clamps which the teller offers on the DVD they work so much better and do an excellent job of securing the limit switches to a fixed position my next complaint is about the mainframe I agree that the acrylic glass does look nice but it's a brittle material when you tighten it not too hard it can happen that the glass will break resulting in this not nice situation but hey I have a 3d printer so I can repair it by printing a new copy which fits very nicely now I have a Frankenstein 3d printer and I bet another break will happen in the future once you Orbach than me things that you are ready for a frost print then think again I saw pictures of people using the glass pad to print on but that does not work for me at all the melted plastic just wouldn't stick to the glass so I bought myself this white blue painters tape which offers a rougher surface without creating a pattern on the 3d prints I laid it down on my desk and lowered my glass bed slowly onto it make sure that everything is smooth and no air bubbles are trapped underneath the tape now let's calibrate the Z home position by using a piece of paper it should still be able to move underneath the extruder heads but not completely free and loose now the print can begin but even if you follow all my advices I would say that one of three prints oryx success at best yes it really is that frustrating and there are just too many variables that could go wrong along the way I printed myself this SD card holder which is a nice addition to my workbench all those clamps which can hold the LCD of my printer and secure it nicely to the mainframe and luckily they fix this problem in the new version at the end I can say that such a kit is relatively cheap if you compare it to other 3d printers I can recommend it to everyone who does not have an anger problem and just wants to experiment with this technology if you want to see more videos about 3d printing then this video alike because this was just an introduction to the topic and there's plenty more to cover I also thought about making an opto print tutorial or maybe an introduction to the software part what do you think let me hear your thoughts in the comment section below as always thanks for watching stay creative and I will see you next time