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I went with the TLC EF v 9 4 0 constant current driver because it offers 16 outputs which is perfect to control two digits at once and the existing library for the Arduino is very easy to understand and control.

In order to test this though I firstly needed to build a prototype so I inserted the pins of two displays into female headers position them on 2 purports and solder them in place luckily the width of the board is exactly the same as the display and the length can easily be shortened with a saw later on to create a fitting is for the final products to make the perfect stackable.

I used 8 pin female and male headers on one side to distribute 9 volts to the display and 5 volts grounds and all necessary data connections to the TLC on the other side I use 16 pin male and female headers to forward the same power and data signals to the next TLC and also to hook up the eight pins of the second display to the output pins 8 to 15 of the TLC.

I did the rest wiring according to the instructions given in the TLC basic you sketch and finally hooked up my Arduino and 9-volt power to the 8 pin inputs.

If we want to let up certain patterns of segments to create a digit then the easiest way would be to use so-called erase in my case I have been too hooked up to TLC pin 0 3 2 1 4 2 2 and so on as an example I want to create a number 0 so after turn on TLC pin 0 1 2 not 3 4 5 6 and not 7 by repeating this procedure with all numbers I can store them in a two dimensional array and set the TLC channels accordingly with a simple for loop but that only works for the first digit though in order to light up the second or both I just need to add an 8 well defines which output gets turned on that's basically the whole magic to control these.

Since everything worked fine I started thinking about adding a standalone atmega328p with complementary parts including a 5 volt regulator the Wi-Fi module with a 3.3 volt regulator and the voltage divider so they can receive the signals from the 5 volt mic controller without getting destroyed and a couple more necessary parts you might notice that all of those components on one per ports would result in a messy layout and especially a chaotic wiring needless to say I would also have to build four of those TLC boards which would take a lot of time.

I tried something new and different for this project firstly I made sure that I used existing parts in my schematic that I would have laying around and afterwards I started to create a board layouts in Eagle I'm not a PCB design expert but it was basically just an act of arranging the parts in a pleasent layouts and then connecting them with the routing tool while making sure that no traces with different signals touch each other on the same site.

After I was finished with it I exported the Gerber files which are sent to a professional PCB manufacturer in this case it was PCB cards who also sponsored this video while the price for my five PCBs was not that low you can say 15% up to $200 off on your first order by using the coupon codes PCB GSL link to them is in the description.

Once I received the PCBs I had a closer look at them did some continuity testing and decided that they should work without a problem so I gathered all the components and started to solder them in their place but I made one big mistake which I will tell you about in the next part until then don't forget to Like share and subscribe that would be awesome check out PCB card if you're interested in your own professional PCBs stay creative and now we see you next time

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enwouldn't it be convenient to see important internet data like the weather your YouTube views and subscribers or the amount of Twitter followers outside of a screen so in this video I will show you how a combined big four inch seven segment displays with the always popular esp8266 Wi-Fi module to create a stackable eight digit display which can present your most important data from the internet in a good-looking old-fashioned style let's get started first off let's have a closer look at the seven segment displays like the name already suggests those consist of seven segments with four red LEDs in serious inside which can be labeled from A to G first you get a decimal point two of two LEDs inside these letters correlate with the 10 pins of display while pin 1 and 8 are the common air notes aka the plus terminal the given information from the salaah claims that letters require 9 volts and the decimal point around 5 volts which is complete because this way they draw away too much current which would lead to an early death around 7 volts Polaris and 3.7 volts for the decimal point is appropriate we will current flow of around 20 milliamps to control them individually I went with the TLC EF v 9 4 0 constant current driver because it offers 16 outputs which is perfect to control two digits at once and the existing library for the Arduino is very easy to understand and control in order to test this though I firstly needed to build a prototype so I inserted the pins of two displays into female headers position them on 2 purports and solder them in place luckily the width of the board is exactly the same as the display and the length can easily be shortened with a saw later on to create a fitting is for the final products to make the perfect stackable I used 8 pin female and male headers on one side to distribute 9 volts to the display and 5 volts grounds and all necessary data connections to the TLC on the other side I use 16 pin male and female headers to forward the same power and data signals to the next TLC and also to hook up the eight pins of the second display to the output pins 8 to 15 of the TLC I did the rest wiring according to the instructions given in the TLC basic you sketch and finally hooked up my Arduino and 9-volt power to the 8 pin inputs now if we want to let up certain patterns of segments to create a digit then the easiest way would be to use so-called erase in my case I have been too hooked up to TLC pin 0 3 2 1 4 2 2 and so on as an example I want to create a number 0 so after turn on TLC pin 0 1 2 not 3 4 5 6 and not 7 by repeating this procedure with all numbers I can store them in a two dimensional array and set the TLC channels accordingly with a simple for loop but that only works for the first digit though in order to light up the second or both I just need to add an 8 well defines which output gets turned on that's basically the whole magic to control these and since everything worked fine I started thinking about adding a standalone atmega328p with complementary parts including a 5 volt regulator the Wi-Fi module with a 3.3 volt regulator and the voltage divider so they can receive the signals from the 5 volt mic controller without getting destroyed and a couple more necessary parts you might notice that all of those components on one per ports would result in a messy layout and especially a chaotic wiring needless to say I would also have to build four of those TLC boards which would take a lot of time so I tried something new and different for this project firstly I made sure that I used existing parts in my schematic that I would have laying around and afterwards I started to create a board layouts in Eagle I'm not a PCB design expert but it was basically just an act of arranging the parts in a pleasent layouts and then connecting them with the routing tool while making sure that no traces with different signals touch each other on the same site after I was finished with it I exported the Gerber files which are sent to a professional PCB manufacturer in this case it was PCB cards who also sponsored this video while the price for my five PCBs was not that low you can say 15% up to $200 off on your first order by using the coupon codes PCB GSL link to them is in the description once I received the PCBs I had a closer look at them did some continuity testing and decided that they should work without a problem so I gathered all the components and started to solve them in their place but I made one big mistake which I will tell you about in the next part until then don't forget to Like share and subscribe that would be awesome check out PCB card if you're interested in your own professional PCBs stay creative and now we see you next timewouldn't it be convenient to see important internet data like the weather your YouTube views and subscribers or the amount of Twitter followers outside of a screen so in this video I will show you how a combined big four inch seven segment displays with the always popular esp8266 Wi-Fi module to create a stackable eight digit display which can present your most important data from the internet in a good-looking old-fashioned style let's get started first off let's have a closer look at the seven segment displays like the name already suggests those consist of seven segments with four red LEDs in serious inside which can be labeled from A to G first you get a decimal point two of two LEDs inside these letters correlate with the 10 pins of display while pin 1 and 8 are the common air notes aka the plus terminal the given information from the salaah claims that letters require 9 volts and the decimal point around 5 volts which is complete because this way they draw away too much current which would lead to an early death around 7 volts Polaris and 3.7 volts for the decimal point is appropriate we will current flow of around 20 milliamps to control them individually I went with the TLC EF v 9 4 0 constant current driver because it offers 16 outputs which is perfect to control two digits at once and the existing library for the Arduino is very easy to understand and control in order to test this though I firstly needed to build a prototype so I inserted the pins of two displays into female headers position them on 2 purports and solder them in place luckily the width of the board is exactly the same as the display and the length can easily be shortened with a saw later on to create a fitting is for the final products to make the perfect stackable I used 8 pin female and male headers on one side to distribute 9 volts to the display and 5 volts grounds and all necessary data connections to the TLC on the other side I use 16 pin male and female headers to forward the same power and data signals to the next TLC and also to hook up the eight pins of the second display to the output pins 8 to 15 of the TLC I did the rest wiring according to the instructions given in the TLC basic you sketch and finally hooked up my Arduino and 9-volt power to the 8 pin inputs now if we want to let up certain patterns of segments to create a digit then the easiest way would be to use so-called erase in my case I have been too hooked up to TLC pin 0 3 2 1 4 2 2 and so on as an example I want to create a number 0 so after turn on TLC pin 0 1 2 not 3 4 5 6 and not 7 by repeating this procedure with all numbers I can store them in a two dimensional array and set the TLC channels accordingly with a simple for loop but that only works for the first digit though in order to light up the second or both I just need to add an 8 well defines which output gets turned on that's basically the whole magic to control these and since everything worked fine I started thinking about adding a standalone atmega328p with complementary parts including a 5 volt regulator the Wi-Fi module with a 3.3 volt regulator and the voltage divider so they can receive the signals from the 5 volt mic controller without getting destroyed and a couple more necessary parts you might notice that all of those components on one per ports would result in a messy layout and especially a chaotic wiring needless to say I would also have to build four of those TLC boards which would take a lot of time so I tried something new and different for this project firstly I made sure that I used existing parts in my schematic that I would have laying around and afterwards I started to create a board layouts in Eagle I'm not a PCB design expert but it was basically just an act of arranging the parts in a pleasent layouts and then connecting them with the routing tool while making sure that no traces with different signals touch each other on the same site after I was finished with it I exported the Gerber files which are sent to a professional PCB manufacturer in this case it was PCB cards who also sponsored this video while the price for my five PCBs was not that low you can say 15% up to $200 off on your first order by using the coupon codes PCB GSL link to them is in the description once I received the PCBs I had a closer look at them did some continuity testing and decided that they should work without a problem so I gathered all the components and started to solve them in their place but I made one big mistake which I will tell you about in the next part until then don't forget to Like share and subscribe that would be awesome check out PCB card if you're interested in your own professional PCBs stay creative and now we see you next time