Applying Tape to Drywall

Once you have applied the paper to the mug and have it centered on the drywall, take your fingers and press the paper down onto the wall just lightly. This will start the process of securing the tape to the drywall. Next, squeeze some excess mud out of the tape by applying gentle pressure with your knife. The goal is not to remove all of the mud, but rather to ensure that there is enough in the corner for it to hold itself in place as you work.

As you begin to apply the tape, be careful not to squeeze too much mud onto one area, as this can create a lump or bump. Instead, focus on applying an even coat of mud across the entire surface of the tape. Take your knife and gently press the paper against the wall, working along both edges to ensure that it adheres properly. If you notice any excess mud or wrinkles in the paper, use your fingers to smooth them out as you go.

For inside corners, pre-cut some paper to the correct length for the height of the wall. The paper will have a crease already marked in the center, which makes it easier to bend and apply to the corner. Simply bend the paper along the crease and press it into place, applying mud to both sides as you work. Make sure to get a good coat of mud on there, but don't worry if it's not perfect - you can clean up any excess later.

Once you've applied the tape to the inside corner, use your fingers or a knife to gently press it into place. Squeeze out any excess mud, making sure that the tape is securely attached to the drywall. Be careful not to apply too much pressure in the corner, as this can cause the paper to tear.

For outside corners, you'll be using a premade product made up of paper, metal, and bead fastened together. This provides added strength and durability for corners that are prone to wear and tear. To apply the tape, start by applying a good, healthy coat of mud to both sides of the corner. Make sure to thin out your mud slightly so it's not too runny.

Next, press the corner into place, working along the length of the wall until it reaches the ceiling. Use your fingers or a specialized roller (optional) to ensure that the corner is secure and evenly applied. If you notice any wrinkles or unevenness in the tape, use your knife to smooth them out as you go.

Applying the final coat

Once you've completed applying the tape to both inside and outside corners, it's time to move on to the next step: cleaning up excess mud and applying a second coat of mud. Use your three knife to wipe away any excess mud from the edges, taking care not to apply too much pressure, which can create lumps or bumps.

Take a moment to inspect the tape for any wrinkles or unevenness, and use your fingers or knife to smooth out any areas that need attention. Make sure that the tape is securely attached to the drywall and that there are no excess mud or lumps around the edges. If you notice any areas where the tape may be loose, take a moment to reapply some mud and press it firmly into place.

Finally, let the first coat of mud dry completely before applying a second coat. Depending on your humidity level and environmental conditions, this may take anywhere from six to eight hours. During this time, you can work on other stages of your project while waiting for the first coat to set.

Note: The article is based on the provided transcription and does not condense or summarize the content. Each part of the transcription is fully developed into a readable paragraph or section in the article.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhi I'm Shannon from health improvements calm today we're going to do a quick video to show you how to apply drywall compound on to new drywall walls some of the first things you're going to need is the drywall compound itself which you can find at any any hardware store this is just a all-purpose drywall mud other tools you're going to need you're going to need a drywall tree and this is simply just to put small quantities of drywall compound into to work from you're going to need an assortment of trowels you're going to need a small 3-inch taping trowel a 5 or 6 inch trowel and then you know something maybe in the neighborhood of 8 or 10 inches I also do have a trowel that's used for doing inside corners you may like it you may not but it is handy tool there's a couple options when it comes to the tape itself you have this type here that is a mesh fiberglass tube and it can be simply rolled off of the roll stuck to the wall cut with a utility knife and kind of saves you one step as far as applying the coat amunt hold it on whereas this type the paper tape you will need a coat of mud to to apply this type of tape but again it's pretty simple just rolls off tear it with your hand and apply it into the fresh compound near the end what you're going to need is some sanding equipment to sand the excess compound off once it is dried so you probably just want a small sponge like this and the hand sander with a sheet of the proper sandpaper on it for doing so we'll get ready and set up and I'll show you how to apply first a paper bead on a street butt joint we're going to do an inside corner today and an outside corner okay now we're ready to actually apply the compound to the wall and then do our first tape what I've done I've already pre-mixed the mud and I put it into the tray that I'm going to use for taping you want your mud a little bit wetter than you would for your other coats so for your main coats I usually mix my mud with a little bit of water down to a sour cream type consistency for the taping again you're just going to need a little bit more mud which you can just add into your tray and mix in so you want it just a little bit runny er than sour cream I'm not sure if you can see this but just gives you the idea what I've got here this helps because your tape and your dry wall paper want to absorb so much water you need a little extra moisture there to make it bond we're gonna we're working in a bathroom today so that's why we've got the green apple board style drywall it's more moisture and mold resistant so you know a lot of you may not be doing a bathroom so you'll just have your standard gray or white paper drywall today we've got the green not a big issue so you start out by applying them on we're going to be doing this joint right here and we're going to apply the mud and then press our tape in there and squeeze off the excess mud so basically I've got my three inch trowel and you can put it on pretty liberally doesn't have to be real neat I'm trying to Center it basically on the on the seen in the drywall so once you have it on there you take your paper press it onto the mug just lightly with your fingers and then you start by simply squeezing some of the excess mud out of there you're going to drop some not a big deal if enough once you have your first end kind of started it's going to help hold itself in place for you and again just go along as it starts to squeeze up wipe the excess off on your free just moving along being sure that the tape isn't wrinkling or folding all just get along one be careful not to squeeze all my dough you still need some mud there bond properly just clean up the edges there's no real huge excess and you got it that's your first coat applying the tape now we're going to go directly into doing our inside corner and the principle is basically the same I pre-cut some paper to the right length for the height of the wall the paper comes with they already started crease right in the center so for the inside corner you just need to bend it along that crease just so you roughly get it already started on the bend it will just make it easier to apply it so I've got that pre started I'm just gonna do a short piece here just to show you so you want to apply your mud similar to what we did on the on the tape there I'm just going to smear it down the corner just like so I got to get both sides so now I'm going to come down this side if you can see I'm putting it on quite literally it's better to have more in there than you need your you don't want to have not enough okay so you can see I've got it applied there fairly thick fairly sloppy looking but we'll have that cleaned up right away so now we've got our tape mint I'm just going to gently press a back into the corner run my fingers lightly down there and again just as we did on the but I want to squeeze some of that mud out of there so as the tape pushes against the wall the much excess mud comes out it's fairly easy on the corner because your knife just rides right into the corner of the drywall and generally not any problems there put too much pressure right directly in the corner because the edge of your knife is sharp it will cut that paper it won't take you very long you have to go for that there's one inside corner it's ready to go so we've got our bevel flat joint done and our inside corner now we're going to do the outside corner for the outside corner they've got a premade product made up with paper metal with paper bead basically fastened right to it gives your corner some strength and durability for bangs and bumps that's what we're going to be using again just as we did before we've got to apply a good healthy coat of mud and then we're going to press the corner into it and ex remove the excess so we'll just apply the model in the corner both sides make sure you're getting a good heavy coat on there don't forget to thin your mud down so it's a little wetter than sour cream consistency takes a few seconds we want to do the whole length that's it's too difficult to do this in stages so you got to be pulling all in one shot okay so I've got the model on there I'm going to take my corner in this case we want to tie it up to the ceiling so I'm going to slide the corner all the way to the top till it butts into the drywall on the ceiling using my hand I want to press that corner all the way tight directly and so we're making good contact there is a roller apparatus you can buy for strictly for doing outside corners now most of you aren't going to do a big enough project likely to justify $60 or so for that roller so just use your fingers make sure you're pressing in there and it also helps ensure that your corners straight and square now we've got going I'm going to take my three knife again you can see I'm using a item about a 30-degree angle against the wall with my blade any any steeper than that and you're probably going to squeeze too much of your motto so we're just working along both edges again as your night builds up with the excess mud just wipe it back into your tree leave too many lumps and bumps around the edges easier in the next steps hit okay just have a quick look make sure your tape is all stuck on there this one looks pretty good now we've got to let that dry usually you know six eight hours of depending on your humidity and whether or not it'll be dry enough to recoat we've got some already set up in a different stage so we're going to move on to them and show you the second coathi I'm Shannon from health improvements calm today we're going to do a quick video to show you how to apply drywall compound on to new drywall walls some of the first things you're going to need is the drywall compound itself which you can find at any any hardware store this is just a all-purpose drywall mud other tools you're going to need you're going to need a drywall tree and this is simply just to put small quantities of drywall compound into to work from you're going to need an assortment of trowels you're going to need a small 3-inch taping trowel a 5 or 6 inch trowel and then you know something maybe in the neighborhood of 8 or 10 inches I also do have a trowel that's used for doing inside corners you may like it you may not but it is handy tool there's a couple options when it comes to the tape itself you have this type here that is a mesh fiberglass tube and it can be simply rolled off of the roll stuck to the wall cut with a utility knife and kind of saves you one step as far as applying the coat amunt hold it on whereas this type the paper tape you will need a coat of mud to to apply this type of tape but again it's pretty simple just rolls off tear it with your hand and apply it into the fresh compound near the end what you're going to need is some sanding equipment to sand the excess compound off once it is dried so you probably just want a small sponge like this and the hand sander with a sheet of the proper sandpaper on it for doing so we'll get ready and set up and I'll show you how to apply first a paper bead on a street butt joint we're going to do an inside corner today and an outside corner okay now we're ready to actually apply the compound to the wall and then do our first tape what I've done I've already pre-mixed the mud and I put it into the tray that I'm going to use for taping you want your mud a little bit wetter than you would for your other coats so for your main coats I usually mix my mud with a little bit of water down to a sour cream type consistency for the taping again you're just going to need a little bit more mud which you can just add into your tray and mix in so you want it just a little bit runny er than sour cream I'm not sure if you can see this but just gives you the idea what I've got here this helps because your tape and your dry wall paper want to absorb so much water you need a little extra moisture there to make it bond we're gonna we're working in a bathroom today so that's why we've got the green apple board style drywall it's more moisture and mold resistant so you know a lot of you may not be doing a bathroom so you'll just have your standard gray or white paper drywall today we've got the green not a big issue so you start out by applying them on we're going to be doing this joint right here and we're going to apply the mud and then press our tape in there and squeeze off the excess mud so basically I've got my three inch trowel and you can put it on pretty liberally doesn't have to be real neat I'm trying to Center it basically on the on the seen in the drywall so once you have it on there you take your paper press it onto the mug just lightly with your fingers and then you start by simply squeezing some of the excess mud out of there you're going to drop some not a big deal if enough once you have your first end kind of started it's going to help hold itself in place for you and again just go along as it starts to squeeze up wipe the excess off on your free just moving along being sure that the tape isn't wrinkling or folding all just get along one be careful not to squeeze all my dough you still need some mud there bond properly just clean up the edges there's no real huge excess and you got it that's your first coat applying the tape now we're going to go directly into doing our inside corner and the principle is basically the same I pre-cut some paper to the right length for the height of the wall the paper comes with they already started crease right in the center so for the inside corner you just need to bend it along that crease just so you roughly get it already started on the bend it will just make it easier to apply it so I've got that pre started I'm just gonna do a short piece here just to show you so you want to apply your mud similar to what we did on the on the tape there I'm just going to smear it down the corner just like so I got to get both sides so now I'm going to come down this side if you can see I'm putting it on quite literally it's better to have more in there than you need your you don't want to have not enough okay so you can see I've got it applied there fairly thick fairly sloppy looking but we'll have that cleaned up right away so now we've got our tape mint I'm just going to gently press a back into the corner run my fingers lightly down there and again just as we did on the but I want to squeeze some of that mud out of there so as the tape pushes against the wall the much excess mud comes out it's fairly easy on the corner because your knife just rides right into the corner of the drywall and generally not any problems there put too much pressure right directly in the corner because the edge of your knife is sharp it will cut that paper it won't take you very long you have to go for that there's one inside corner it's ready to go so we've got our bevel flat joint done and our inside corner now we're going to do the outside corner for the outside corner they've got a premade product made up with paper metal with paper bead basically fastened right to it gives your corner some strength and durability for bangs and bumps that's what we're going to be using again just as we did before we've got to apply a good healthy coat of mud and then we're going to press the corner into it and ex remove the excess so we'll just apply the model in the corner both sides make sure you're getting a good heavy coat on there don't forget to thin your mud down so it's a little wetter than sour cream consistency takes a few seconds we want to do the whole length that's it's too difficult to do this in stages so you got to be pulling all in one shot okay so I've got the model on there I'm going to take my corner in this case we want to tie it up to the ceiling so I'm going to slide the corner all the way to the top till it butts into the drywall on the ceiling using my hand I want to press that corner all the way tight directly and so we're making good contact there is a roller apparatus you can buy for strictly for doing outside corners now most of you aren't going to do a big enough project likely to justify $60 or so for that roller so just use your fingers make sure you're pressing in there and it also helps ensure that your corners straight and square now we've got going I'm going to take my three knife again you can see I'm using a item about a 30-degree angle against the wall with my blade any any steeper than that and you're probably going to squeeze too much of your motto so we're just working along both edges again as your night builds up with the excess mud just wipe it back into your tree leave too many lumps and bumps around the edges easier in the next steps hit okay just have a quick look make sure your tape is all stuck on there this one looks pretty good now we've got to let that dry usually you know six eight hours of depending on your humidity and whether or not it'll be dry enough to recoat we've got some already set up in a different stage so we're going to move on to them and show you the second coat\n"