**Creating a DIY Slider: A Step-by-Step Guide**

I started by securing three pieces with a scriber, and then I secured the material with two clamps and used a simple metal saw to saw along those lines once all three boards were complete. I used the file to round off all the edges and corners which left me with a pretty decent result. So I printed out the previously created drawings, used the box cutter to remove the excess unnecessary paper around them, and glued each of them to the designated board with the templates in place.

I started creating indentations through the help of a prick punch and a hammer in the middle of the dual holds of the smaller stationary boards. Afterwards, I used the 3mm drill to create all the holes but obviously I then extended the 5 mm hole to a diameter of 5 mm and the thread hole to a diameter of 8 mm at this point it was time for my 38 in tap sets to create the necessary threads by utilizing all three of them patience and a bit of oil it was actually pretty simple to create a decent fit so it was no surprise that the 38 in to 1/4in adapter did fit in the end which is necessary to connect the quick release plate afterwards.

I position the limit switch in its designated spots marked its mounting holds and Dr them as well with the 3 mm drill. I then repeated the same prick punch marking drilling thread cutting limit switch positioning procedure with the bigger stationary boards and moved on by creating the indentations for the movable platform this time I used the 4mm drill to pre-drill all the holes except the two ones next to the middle one used once again an 8 mm drill and the tap set to create the center threads in order to attach the 38in connector for the ball head hats and checked whether the 5 mm screws were too close to the ball head hats which was not the case so I created those holes as well to finish the board's treatment.

I positioned the limit switches once again to the spot for two 4mm screws which will later activate the limit switches due those holes and finally debuted all the sharp edges of the holes. Next, I marked a square around the 5 mm holes of the movable platform in this manner which will be mandatory later on for the timing belt system. I marked the dimensions of this required piece onto a 4mm thick piece of aluminum and C the shape through the help of the metal saw but before attaching it though I brought in two 2m Long Hollow stainless steel pipes with an outer diameter of roughly 8 mm and an inner diameter of 5.8 mm perfect for the Linear B bearing slide bushing.

I cut both of them to a length of 124.5 CM again through the help of the metal saw and afterwards clamp them on top of the longer stationary plates in the designated spots then I used a 3mm drill to create markings onto them from the other side of the board and use those as a guideline to completely drill through both pipes next I removed the protective film of the center plates and secured all the Linear B bearing slide bushings with 4mm bolts while making sure that an identical size tube connects parallel bushings while tightening the bolts after removing the protective film of the stationary platforms as well I push the two stainless steel pipes through the bushings of the movable platform and secured the pipes with M3 bolts washers and nuts to the one board with already dualed holes.

I then positioned the other boards precisely on top of the pipes secured it in place with clamps and used a 3mm drill once again to Mark the correct spots just like before I then completely Dr through both pipes and secured them to the board with bolts and nuts as well lastly I screwed in the thread adapter and secured the quick release plates to both boards which basically completed the mechanical builds that means that this slider can already be used by hand but what I immedi mediately noticed while trying it out is that it does not slide very smoothly because the pipes do not have a constant diameter of 8 mm and it was also noticeable that self-locking knots are kind of mandatory for this kind of builds.

**Conclusion**

Despite some minor issues with the smoothness of the slider, the build process itself has been quite straightforward. In the next part of the series, I will motorize and automate this build to take it to the next level. Stay tuned for further updates on this project.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enI recently replaced two camera tripods of mine with newer models but instead of just storing the old one somewhere safe I wanted to create something useful with them so in this two-part video series I will show you how I created a battery powered motorized and sturdy camera slider that can move my DSLR camera with an adjustable RPM AKA speeds on a specific time from right to left in order to create time lapses let's get started first of all we need some kind of blueprint in my opinion the design should consist of three individual boards the left and right one will be stationary and thus need a fret in order to attach them to the quick release plates of the tripods the right one will also host the stepper motor with pulley the main electronics and finally a limit switch which once pushed will automatically reverse the rotation direction of the motor the left plates also require such a limit switch as well as a hole for 5 mm screw which will later carry two flank Bol bearings to complete the timing belt system of the motor last but not least we have the center movable platform which will attach to four Linear B bearing slide bushings that will ride along two guiding tubes so obviously those have to be attached to the right and left board as well to finish the blueprint I added another thread in the middle of the center board for tripod ballheads and two 5 mm holes next to it to later complete the timing belt system with those guidelines in mind I then created a more appropriate two to scale Vector graphic with inkscape which determined the final dimensions of each piece so I got myself the most important material of this build 6 mm thick aluminum after marking the outline of the three pieces with a scriber I secured the material with two clamps and used a simple metal saw to saw along those lines once all three boards were complete I used the file to round off all the edges and Corners which left me with a pretty decent result so I printed out the previously created drawings used the box cutter to remove the excess un necessary paper around them and glued each of them to the designated board with the templates in place I started creating indentations through the help of a prick punch and a hammer in the middle of the Dual holds of the smaller stationary boards and afterwards used the 3mm drool to create all the holes but obviously I then extended the 5 mm hole to a diameter of 5 mm and the thread hole to a diameter of 8 mm at this point it was time for my 38 in tap sets to create the necessary threats by utilizing all three of them patience and a bit of oil it was actually pretty simple to create a decent fat so it was no surprise that the 38 in to 1/4in adapter did fit in the end which is necessary to connect the quick release plate afterwards I position the limit switch in its designated spots marked its mounting holds and Dr them as well with the 3 mm drill I then repeated the same prick punch marking drilling threat cutting limit switch positioning procedure with the bigger stationary boards and moved on by creating the indentations for the movable platform this time I used the 4 mm drill to pre-drill all the holes except the two ones next to the middle one used once again an 8 mm drill and the tap set to create the center threats in order to attach the 38 in connector for the ball head hats and checked whether the 5 mm screws were too close to the ball head hats which was not the case so I created those holes as well to finish the board's treatment I positioned the limit switches once again toer the spot for two 4 mm screws which will later activate the limit switches dued those holes and finally debuted all the sharp edges of the holes next I marked a square around the 5 mm holes of the movable platform in this manner which will be mandatory later on for the timing belt system I marked the dimensions of this required piece onto a 4 mm thick piece of aluminum and C the shape through the help of the metal saw but before attaching it though I brought in two 2 m Long Hollow stainless steel pipes with an outer diameter of roughly 8 mm and an inner diameter of 5.8 mm perfect for the Linear B bearing slide bushing I cut both of them to a length of 124.5 CM again through the help of the metal saw and afterwards clamp them on top of the longer stationary plates in the designated spots then I used a 3 mm drill to create markings onto them from the other side of the board and use those as a guideline to completely drill through both pipes next I removed the protective film of the center plates and secured all the Linear B bearing slide bushings with 4 mm bolts while making sure that an identical size tube connects parallel bushings while tightening the bolts after removing the protective film of the stationary platforms as well I push the two stainless steel pipes through the bushings of the movable platform and secured the pipes with M3 bolts washers and nuts to the one board with already dualed hols I then positioned the other boards precisely on top of the pipes secured it in place with clamps and used a 3mm drill once again to Mark the correct spots just like before I then completely Dr through both pipes and secured them to the board with bolts and nuts as well lastly I screwed in the thread adapter and secured the quick release plates to both boards which basically completed the mechanical builds that means that this slider can already be used by hand but what I immedi mediately noticed while trying it out is that it does not slide very smoothly because the pipes do not have a constant diameter of 8 mm and it was also noticeable that self-locking knots are kind of mandatory for this kind of builds but nevertheless stay tuned for part two where I will motorize and automatize this build until then let me treat those pipes and as always don't forget to like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next timeI recently replaced two camera tripods of mine with newer models but instead of just storing the old one somewhere safe I wanted to create something useful with them so in this two-part video series I will show you how I created a battery powered motorized and sturdy camera slider that can move my DSLR camera with an adjustable RPM AKA speeds on a specific time from right to left in order to create time lapses let's get started first of all we need some kind of blueprint in my opinion the design should consist of three individual boards the left and right one will be stationary and thus need a fret in order to attach them to the quick release plates of the tripods the right one will also host the stepper motor with pulley the main electronics and finally a limit switch which once pushed will automatically reverse the rotation direction of the motor the left plates also require such a limit switch as well as a hole for 5 mm screw which will later carry two flank Bol bearings to complete the timing belt system of the motor last but not least we have the center movable platform which will attach to four Linear B bearing slide bushings that will ride along two guiding tubes so obviously those have to be attached to the right and left board as well to finish the blueprint I added another thread in the middle of the center board for tripod ballheads and two 5 mm holes next to it to later complete the timing belt system with those guidelines in mind I then created a more appropriate two to scale Vector graphic with inkscape which determined the final dimensions of each piece so I got myself the most important material of this build 6 mm thick aluminum after marking the outline of the three pieces with a scriber I secured the material with two clamps and used a simple metal saw to saw along those lines once all three boards were complete I used the file to round off all the edges and Corners which left me with a pretty decent result so I printed out the previously created drawings used the box cutter to remove the excess un necessary paper around them and glued each of them to the designated board with the templates in place I started creating indentations through the help of a prick punch and a hammer in the middle of the Dual holds of the smaller stationary boards and afterwards used the 3mm drool to create all the holes but obviously I then extended the 5 mm hole to a diameter of 5 mm and the thread hole to a diameter of 8 mm at this point it was time for my 38 in tap sets to create the necessary threats by utilizing all three of them patience and a bit of oil it was actually pretty simple to create a decent fat so it was no surprise that the 38 in to 1/4in adapter did fit in the end which is necessary to connect the quick release plate afterwards I position the limit switch in its designated spots marked its mounting holds and Dr them as well with the 3 mm drill I then repeated the same prick punch marking drilling threat cutting limit switch positioning procedure with the bigger stationary boards and moved on by creating the indentations for the movable platform this time I used the 4 mm drill to pre-drill all the holes except the two ones next to the middle one used once again an 8 mm drill and the tap set to create the center threats in order to attach the 38 in connector for the ball head hats and checked whether the 5 mm screws were too close to the ball head hats which was not the case so I created those holes as well to finish the board's treatment I positioned the limit switches once again toer the spot for two 4 mm screws which will later activate the limit switches dued those holes and finally debuted all the sharp edges of the holes next I marked a square around the 5 mm holes of the movable platform in this manner which will be mandatory later on for the timing belt system I marked the dimensions of this required piece onto a 4 mm thick piece of aluminum and C the shape through the help of the metal saw but before attaching it though I brought in two 2 m Long Hollow stainless steel pipes with an outer diameter of roughly 8 mm and an inner diameter of 5.8 mm perfect for the Linear B bearing slide bushing I cut both of them to a length of 124.5 CM again through the help of the metal saw and afterwards clamp them on top of the longer stationary plates in the designated spots then I used a 3 mm drill to create markings onto them from the other side of the board and use those as a guideline to completely drill through both pipes next I removed the protective film of the center plates and secured all the Linear B bearing slide bushings with 4 mm bolts while making sure that an identical size tube connects parallel bushings while tightening the bolts after removing the protective film of the stationary platforms as well I push the two stainless steel pipes through the bushings of the movable platform and secured the pipes with M3 bolts washers and nuts to the one board with already dualed hols I then positioned the other boards precisely on top of the pipes secured it in place with clamps and used a 3mm drill once again to Mark the correct spots just like before I then completely Dr through both pipes and secured them to the board with bolts and nuts as well lastly I screwed in the thread adapter and secured the quick release plates to both boards which basically completed the mechanical builds that means that this slider can already be used by hand but what I immedi mediately noticed while trying it out is that it does not slide very smoothly because the pipes do not have a constant diameter of 8 mm and it was also noticeable that self-locking knots are kind of mandatory for this kind of builds but nevertheless stay tuned for part two where I will motorize and automatize this build until then let me treat those pipes and as always don't forget to like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next time