Building a Custom Speaker System Using Repurposed Components

I was fortunate enough to have two old speakers from a Logitech speaker system lying around, which I used as the foundation for my custom speaker system. I removed all the screws that held the case together and took out the bare speakers. To connect them to both channels of the Bluetooth board, I connected each wire to its solder pads respectively. This was an easy task, considering that it cost me only $22 without the actual speakers.

The next challenge I faced was creating a case for my speaker system. I measured the dimensions of all the components and drew a rough sketch with bag measurements. To ensure that the shape would fit together properly, I added a square wave pattern on each side which will later interlock with one another to form a sturdy case. After drawing this blueprint, I exported each piece as a PDF file and printed them out twice using the laser card software.

I used a craft saw to cut out the inner parts of the square wave pattern from the printed templates. For this task, I obtained six mm thick Beach plywood, which provided a sturdy base for my project. To attach the template pieces to the plywood, I applied a generous amount of glue and pressed it onto the wood using a simple handsaw. The result was a precise cutout with intricate details.

However, I encountered an issue with the locking pattern not fitting well together. Using a file, I solved this problem by carefully removing excess material. Next, I marked the center points on both sides of the case and drew a circle with a diameter of 72 mm for the speakers. To create the cutout for both speakers, I drilled a 6 mm hole in the middle. After that, I marked the mounting holes for the Bluetooth board onto the top section of the case.

To secure the Bluetooth module, I created three mounting holes and mounted the PCB temporarily to the wood to mark the necessary cutouts on the front piece of the case. Using a spectular like object (my ruler) and acetone, I removed the paper template completely from the cutout. With this step completed, it was time to assemble all the components together.

Firstly, I applied a decent amount of wood glue on all the case sides in order to connect them together, but the back piece should not be glued in place otherwise we could not access the insides once the glue was dry. I repeated the same wiring process as described at the beginning of the video, only adding hot glue to couple of parts to secure them to the wood.

Once all the components were assembled and wired, it was time to add the final touches. To secure the speakers in place, I used M4 bolts and nuts. Similarly, for the micro USB breakout, I used M3 bolts and nuts, as well as M3 mounting bolts for the Bluetooth module. After completing these steps, my custom speaker system was finally complete.

I must say that I'm pleased with how it came out, and the sound quality and volume is pretty decent. The process of building this project not only taught me a lot about electronics and woodworking but also showed me that repurposing old components can lead to cost-effective and functional solutions. If you're still confused or need more information, please refer to the video description for important parts list and additional pictures.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enI recently found this rather interesting Bluetooth board online for a price of roughly $5 it combines Bluetooth IC with a PM 8403 2 * 3 wat audio M IC by connecting an old speaker to one of its outputs and powering the boards through a 5vt phone charger it comes to life and is apparently Chinese the Bluetooth device is ready to pair after pairing my phone with it I was able to to play back my favorite music just like any other Bluetooth speaker would do so but even though the setup is functional it is also rather crude and impractical so in this video I will show you how I use the sport in combination with some other easily available components to create my own lowbudget portable Bluetooth speaker let's get started as a power source I went with two 1865 lithion ion batteries with a capacity of 2,800 milliamp hours each you can get comparable ones for around $10 to charge them and protect them from over discharge I went with a TP 4056 board whose B+ pin connects to the positive terminal of the batteries and the B minus pin to the the negative terminal you can find such a board for around $1.4 to position the charging port more accessible later on I also added a micro USB breakout to the mix which directly connects to the input of the TP 4056 and only costs $1.2 at the positive output pin of the protection board connects a single pole double throw switch for $2 followed by Mt 3608 boost converter for 1. $2 whose negative inputs connects directly to the negative output of the TP 4056 board after adjusting the output of the Boost converter to 5 volts through the built-on trimmer all there was left to do was to connect the outputs to the 5 FTS and ground pins of the Bluetooth board by flipping the power switch the board blings like it's supposed to but we will need some decent speakers for that I luckily had two old speakers from a Logitech speaker system system lying around I simply removed all the screws that held the case together and removed the bare speakers after connecting them to both channels of the Bluetooth board it seemed like everything still worked fine but I was not pleased with the signal LEDs for the charging process so I removed both of them and asserted that they have a common anode AKA a common positive terminal that is why I replaced them with a common anode RGB LED whose blue pin I cuts and then connected each wire to its solder pads respectively all in all this setup came out to a total price of $22 without speakers pretty decent I would say considering that the battery run time is at least around 30 hours at an average loudness now that I knew that this setup works all that was missing was a case for that I firstly measured the dimensions of all the components and subsequently drew a rough sketch with bag measurements next I added a square wave pattern on each side which will later interlock with one another to form a sturdy case according to those sketches I drew a proper blueprint with the lier card software exported each piece as a PDF file and printed out each file twice afterwards I used the cuta to follow the outline of the six necessary pieces and then used an exacto knife to cut out the inner parts of the square wave pattern after after completing the templates for all the pieces I got myself Beach plywood 6 mm thick to be specific I simply used the glue stick to apply a generous amount of glue to each template and then pressed it onto the plywood with the help of a simple handsaw I cut roughly along the outlines of each piece and then completed the outline through the help of the scroll saw right before I used the saw as well to cut out the inner parts of the square wave and just like that all the pieces for the case were complete but their locking pattern didn't fit well yet so I used the file to solve this problem and continued by marking the center points on the right and left side of the case in order to Mark a circle with a diameter of 72 mm for the speakers afterwards I drilled a 6 mm hole in the middle so that a saw blade could be inserted and sort the cutout for both of the speakers next I marked the mounting holes for the Bluetooth board onto the top section of the case and created them with a 3 mm drill the next marking was in the middle of the front boards which I used to drill a 6 mm hole for the switch followed by a 5 mm hole 20 mm underneath the middle hole at last I positioned the micro USB breakout in the middle of the ledge of the bottom case piece marked a 3 mm mouting holes created them mounted the PCB temporarily to the woods in order to Mark the necessary cut out on the front piece of the case and cut it out afterwards with the scroll saw next I scraped off most of the paper template through Brute Force but eventually used a tactic consisting of applying acetone and using a spectular like object in this case my ruler to remove the paper completely now that we finally have six beautifully crafted case pieces it was time to secure the speakers in place with M4 bolts and nuts the micro spe breakout with M3 bolts and nuts and the M3 mounting bolts for the Bluetooth module afterwards I applied a decent amount of wood glue on all of the case sides in order to connect them together but needless to say the back piece should not be glued in place otherwise we could not access the insides once the glue was dry I repeated the same wiring as I described it at the beginning of the video only difference was that I added a bit of hot glue to a couple of parts to secure them to the woods otherwise it was completely the same procedure but if you're still confused you can find better pictures a parts list and everything important as always in the video description at the end I pushed the back piece in place which should fit snuggly and the project was finally complete I have to say that I'm pleased with how it came out and the sound quality and volume is pretty decent I hope you like this video and and maybe give this project a try don't forget to like share and subscribe that would be awesome stay creative and I will see you next timeI recently found this rather interesting Bluetooth board online for a price of roughly $5 it combines Bluetooth IC with a PM 8403 2 * 3 wat audio M IC by connecting an old speaker to one of its outputs and powering the boards through a 5vt phone charger it comes to life and is apparently Chinese the Bluetooth device is ready to pair after pairing my phone with it I was able to to play back my favorite music just like any other Bluetooth speaker would do so but even though the setup is functional it is also rather crude and impractical so in this video I will show you how I use the sport in combination with some other easily available components to create my own lowbudget portable Bluetooth speaker let's get started as a power source I went with two 1865 lithion ion batteries with a capacity of 2,800 milliamp hours each you can get comparable ones for around $10 to charge them and protect them from over discharge I went with a TP 4056 board whose B+ pin connects to the positive terminal of the batteries and the B minus pin to the the negative terminal you can find such a board for around $1.4 to position the charging port more accessible later on I also added a micro USB breakout to the mix which directly connects to the input of the TP 4056 and only costs $1.2 at the positive output pin of the protection board connects a single pole double throw switch for $2 followed by Mt 3608 boost converter for 1. $2 whose negative inputs connects directly to the negative output of the TP 4056 board after adjusting the output of the Boost converter to 5 volts through the built-on trimmer all there was left to do was to connect the outputs to the 5 FTS and ground pins of the Bluetooth board by flipping the power switch the board blings like it's supposed to but we will need some decent speakers for that I luckily had two old speakers from a Logitech speaker system system lying around I simply removed all the screws that held the case together and removed the bare speakers after connecting them to both channels of the Bluetooth board it seemed like everything still worked fine but I was not pleased with the signal LEDs for the charging process so I removed both of them and asserted that they have a common anode AKA a common positive terminal that is why I replaced them with a common anode RGB LED whose blue pin I cuts and then connected each wire to its solder pads respectively all in all this setup came out to a total price of $22 without speakers pretty decent I would say considering that the battery run time is at least around 30 hours at an average loudness now that I knew that this setup works all that was missing was a case for that I firstly measured the dimensions of all the components and subsequently drew a rough sketch with bag measurements next I added a square wave pattern on each side which will later interlock with one another to form a sturdy case according to those sketches I drew a proper blueprint with the lier card software exported each piece as a PDF file and printed out each file twice afterwards I used the cuta to follow the outline of the six necessary pieces and then used an exacto knife to cut out the inner parts of the square wave pattern after after completing the templates for all the pieces I got myself Beach plywood 6 mm thick to be specific I simply used the glue stick to apply a generous amount of glue to each template and then pressed it onto the plywood with the help of a simple handsaw I cut roughly along the outlines of each piece and then completed the outline through the help of the scroll saw right before I used the saw as well to cut out the inner parts of the square wave and just like that all the pieces for the case were complete but their locking pattern didn't fit well yet so I used the file to solve this problem and continued by marking the center points on the right and left side of the case in order to Mark a circle with a diameter of 72 mm for the speakers afterwards I drilled a 6 mm hole in the middle so that a saw blade could be inserted and sort the cutout for both of the speakers next I marked the mounting holes for the Bluetooth board onto the top section of the case and created them with a 3 mm drill the next marking was in the middle of the front boards which I used to drill a 6 mm hole for the switch followed by a 5 mm hole 20 mm underneath the middle hole at last I positioned the micro USB breakout in the middle of the ledge of the bottom case piece marked a 3 mm mouting holes created them mounted the PCB temporarily to the woods in order to Mark the necessary cut out on the front piece of the case and cut it out afterwards with the scroll saw next I scraped off most of the paper template through Brute Force but eventually used a tactic consisting of applying acetone and using a spectular like object in this case my ruler to remove the paper completely now that we finally have six beautifully crafted case pieces it was time to secure the speakers in place with M4 bolts and nuts the micro spe breakout with M3 bolts and nuts and the M3 mounting bolts for the Bluetooth module afterwards I applied a decent amount of wood glue on all of the case sides in order to connect them together but needless to say the back piece should not be glued in place otherwise we could not access the insides once the glue was dry I repeated the same wiring as I described it at the beginning of the video only difference was that I added a bit of hot glue to a couple of parts to secure them to the woods otherwise it was completely the same procedure but if you're still confused you can find better pictures a parts list and everything important as always in the video description at the end I pushed the back piece in place which should fit snuggly and the project was finally complete I have to say that I'm pleased with how it came out and the sound quality and volume is pretty decent I hope you like this video and and maybe give this project a try don't forget to like share and subscribe that would be awesome stay creative and I will see you next time