Will my rescued first car start up after a full engine rebuild _ Rover 25 restoration

**Day One: The Engine Takes Shape**

Mike, the builder and host of this episode, begins by explaining that he's going to mark each engine component with a certain orientation just to ensure they're all done correctly. He then proceeds to mark the camshaft, lifters, and camshaft cover in one direction, stating that it's just his personal preference.

**The Completed Engine**

Mike then congratulates himself on completing the engine, which is now almost finished. He explains that there are a couple of things left to do before they can move on to the next stage. The plan for day two involves installing the transmission and getting everything ready to put the car back together again.

**A New Addition: A Shiny Alternator**

The first task for the new day is to install a shiny new alternator, which Mike explains will require some adjustments to be made. He also mentions that they'll need an auxiliary belt and an alternator belt to complete the job.

**Getting the Transmission Ready**

Mike then explains that once the engine is installed, they can move on to putting the transmission in place. This involves attaching a few little trim plates, which will add up to a significant amount of work.

**The Heavies Arrive: Fuel Tank and Engine Mounts**

Fortunately for Mike, Paul from the YouTube channel Project Nigel has come to the rescue, driving all the way down from Rochdale to deliver some crucial parts. These include the fuel tank, which is now installed in the car, as well as the engine mounts.

**The Fun Begins: Putting Fluids into the Engine**

Now that the engine is connected and the transmission is in place, it's time to put the fluids into the engine. Mike explains that they'll start with the engine oil, which will be a 10w40 moly gen, high-performance liquid that provides low friction for smooth operation.

**The Rest of the Fluids**

Next up will be the 7590 transmission fluid, which strikes the balance between lubrication and friction for those slick changes. Although this particular car won't need it, Mike highly recommends this product for any high-mileage vehicles.

**Supporting Sponsor: Liquid Molly**

Mike mentions that they've been fortunate to have an awesome sponsor in Liquid Molly, who has provided all of these fluids and other necessary components for the build. If you'd like to support the channel, click on the link in the description below, and you'll be able to see what products they produce.

**Starting Up the Car**

With everything in place, Mike decides it's time to start up the car. He primed the fuel pump earlier and now cranks the engine while monitoring the oil light, battery light, and engine light for any signs of trouble. If all lights remain steady, he'll give the car a gentle start-up.

**The Sound of Success**

As Mike puts the car into gear and gives it a smooth start, the sound is music to his ears – a low rumble that's both smooth and rich. The engine fires on four, and Mike exclaims in excitement at the sound coming from beneath him. This concludes day one of the build.

**The Plan for Day Two**

As Mike wraps up the first day, he explains that they'll be finishing off the car over the next few days before auctioning it off to raise funds for a military charity. The charity chosen is Scotty's Little Soldiers, which supports bereaved kids and young adults up to the age of 25 who have lost a parent serving in the military.

**The Final Episode: Bidding on the Rover**

Stay tuned for the final episode, where you can bid on this mint condition Rover 25. All proceeds from the auction will go directly to Scotty's Little Soldiers, making it an exciting and meaningful way to conclude the build project.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enthis is such a weird feeling well good luck there's the keys thank you very much and that looks like something from alien right do you want to lift the rocker cover off i can't get over that yellow gum i've never seen anything like that before welcome to my car graveyard on episode 3 of our rover restoration a lot of you guys will know where this car is from but i want to talk about this in episode 2 we showed you that this was a brand new untouched rover 25 shell and we were going to use it to take bits from and restore my car now there's some pretty serious divots in this one but all of that has led to this the car has been welded painted and that solar red is looking better than it ever did the team has done a bunch of work since the last episode mick it's looking like a minter already yeah the last time we saw you were doing a bit of cutting and welding so what's happened since okay so in the last episode you saw me removing part of the flitch and the inner flitch and the strengthening panel that has all been cut out the new shell and fitted into this we also found some nasties on the driver's side as well so they were cut out and replaced from the new shell yep what really surprised us is we thought the silvers and the actual structure of the car were really good deadly corridors it did until we looked a little bit further and it was just sealer that was holding the sills on okay so unfortunately we had to remove both sills and part of the inner sill structure on the driver's side okay so that's been replaced driver side rear wheel arch that's been rebuilt driver's side rear bumper mount has been rebuilt and a bunch of other stuff inner wings bumper mounts other bits and bobs that were rotten so we've rebuilt those as well so yeah when we first saw the car there was a sort of black lining along the cell which made it look okay but we've got it down here you've got the sill there this is what you cut out yes that is a shocker so how did you find out did you just remove that black stuff we started to get rid of the black coating with a wire wheel yeah and you could just put your finger through it wow okay and was that it were those the surprises so three or four surprises uh the front cross member obviously as you know with all the parts we take off we have sandblasted yeah so we can powder coat which then reveals any nasties that we don't want to see afterwards the front main structural cross member that the engine and the steering hang on tea bagged okay so that's been replaced as well um and one of the structural part that goes across the inner wings at the front that's also tea bags that's been replaced as well so apart from that always good so how much stuff have you taken from that donor shell out in the yard a fair bit to be fair um both inner wing strip top mountains the strength from this side and we actually cut both sill sections out of the new shell guys out there that know about doing body repairs nothing fits better than genuine we've got a genuine shell why would we put spurious sills on it so that's what we did we cut the seals off as on in its entirety uh put them back in spot welded them back on done and parts for rover 25 are relatively cheap so when you're faced with something are you most likely just going to go and replace it or are some things worth repairing um it depends on the part as we've mentioned the front cross member the time and effort to do that it's not worth it yeah for 30 quid you can buy it on the secondhand one sure done you know different i suppose for the guy at home if he's got nothing to do all day that's fine carry on and repair it obviously from a business point of view you've got to look at what's what's most effective um but yeah the body shows definitely done what we we said we were going to do with it okay and in this episode we're going to start rebuilding the car and just like the mondeo you've been powder coating we've been spraying powder coating cleaning so there's some of the the small selection of stuff that we've done drive shafts anti-roll bar steering rack some little brackets and trinkets um just to bring it all back to life and freshen it up okay but the main thing today is going to be getting that k series going we're going to put the head on the k series get it back in the car the guys are going to build the rest of the shell up so hopefully by the end of this episode we should hear a k-series running i cannot wait i remember how gobsmacked i was when i saw the mondeo engine finished this is equally as nice it's an absolute beauty so mick what have you done since we were last here after the disassembly we went through and measured everything to make sure that everything was in spec the crank was out of spec so we had that re-ground so we just had crank grind new big ends new main bearings new thrusts new oil pump um we checked the bores there was zero wearing the bores good so we've cleaned the pistons had those uh blasted and we put brand new rings on rods were fine we've gone for new water pump new oil pump as i said all new gaskets and seals the block was cleaned the cylinder head was reconditioned all cut and that's been skimmed as well so that's all ready to go uh new thermostat and anything else we can find that we that we need to change we have done also i'd like to throw a massive shout out to mir motorsport they pulled it out the bag for me i was struggling to find 1.4 piston rings right and they sorted it right out for me so big shout out to those guys cool so today we're going to be putting all of this back onto here we are indeed the main thing is the head gasket yes so this is the original skanky one yep explain what's going on with this one here okay so we're removing the original type head gasket that rover fitted as everybody knows they were not brilliant and we're actually going to change it to a triple layer head gasket so you can see it's a triple layer sandwich okay much better ceiling properties and it gives a little bit of a a bit of a help with if there's any undulation in anything or anything moves this will help keep it sealed so this is like the darth vader of head gaskets and this is the jar jar binks you could say that yes okay so what's the first thing we need to do to get that under here okay there's a couple of things we need to check one of the major things is liner protrusion we need to make sure that there is a a line of protrusion above the deck of the block in order for the head gasket to seal on the liners okay let's have a go with that so what we use is a dial gauge indicator which would clamp onto the top of the liners so then we zero the dti gauge on the top of the block so we're at zero as you can see and then a little twist of the base which puts us on top of the liner okay so that's and you can see we've got point four of a mill of line of protrusion which is in spec so that just shows that the liner is protruding over the top of the block a very small amount to give our head gasket something to to clamp onto okay so what's too much and what's too little um i believe the maximum is 0.7 of a mil okay and obvious too little would be zero okay so 0.4 is banging on we're banging the middle so we're well on spec there it's important to check each cylinder sleeve is within spec and use shims if needed to ensure good fitment of the head gasket okay so we know the lining protrusions are correct and in spec so all we need to do now is just give a little wipe down we know everything's clean but it doesn't hurt to give it a wipe down yep and if you like to grab the the head gasket noting that it says top on it yes yeah and this way around yeah over the dowels that's it cool we've got to do that a little wipe as well and then the cylinder head same again a little wipe and that's your front that's the front okay and drop her onto your dowels there you go stride on very cool beautiful it just makes sense to me having those three layers and then you actually heard them squish down there you just know that's going to seal better if you can imagine how much clamping force there is between the head and the block when all those bolts are tightened down okay so next is the the legendary long the legendary bolts grab your bolts middle first middle first just make sure they go all the way down into that girdle at the bottom yep that's it that's it little wiggle okay so now we've got a torque sequence that we need to follow okay okay and this is a one hit wonder isn't it this is a one it wonder because these bolts are a torque to yield once they're torqued and stretched that's it okay if you remove them again the bolts have to be thrown away because you can only talk them once cool okay mike so we need to run the head bolts now down to the cylinder head surface so a little speed brace if you run those bolts in and then i can do the talk up procedure okay so what am i waiting for here just to feel it hit the head you'll feel it as you get down it should feel nice and smooth and then when it hits the head it should stop like that okay that's it i proceeded to run the rest of the bolts in before handing back to mick for the torque up procedure okay what next right i need to talk them down right that's the important job so i'll leave that to you i need to be that side okay so this is where that order becomes super important yes it does and what happens if you were to basically torque it just by hand and not go by the instructions what could happen well if there's two things if you don't talk it in the correct sequence you can distort the head or you can over talk or under torque them if you're over taught then there's a possibility of breaking the bolt or pulling the threads out the girdle at the bottom okay so it's telling you 20 newton meters and 180 degrees 180 degrees what does that mean okay 20 newton meters uh is the the first talk of um of strength on the bolt okay and then your second and your third um steps are degrees so basically half a turn and then half a turn okay the reason we do it in two steps is to let that bolt yield if you were to turn that 360 degrees in one hit there's a possibility that bolt would not take it and it would break okay so while we're standing here that bolt is literally very slightly strict correct yeah so by the time you've done bolt number one you've done the other nine by the time you get back to bolt number one it's already it's already stretched so you can do your next 180. very cool okay let's see it okay so we set our units 20 newton meters you know that crush in the head gasket that's your 20 newton meters yeah 20. there you go very cool yeah so that's those three layers compacting together yep okay and while he's doing that the strip down of this engine was the center point of episode two and there were quite a few comments that were saying we were a bit harsh about the k series engine a lot of people were saying that there were retrospective fits that made this engine super reliable and that's fine but from factory these things were ticking time bombs you get to about 40 000 miles the head gasket goes and it can be pretty catastrophic i experienced it myself so yes there are fixes for it but from factory this was a very unreliable engine so i still stand by the title of that video and the thing is it's not that we were slagging off this engine and then chucking it in the bin putting in the scrap peep we're saving it this is going to be one of the best k series engines going on the market we like a k series as we were saying it's rev it's a pretty fun engine to have in a hatchback and this is going to be an awesome one and hopefully by the end of this episode we'll be able to start it up how are we getting on well done that's our first 20 newton metres awesome so now i'm just setting the degrees do you want to have a go at some of these mike yes if i'm elected you'll need to be this side so that's number that's number one i always put your foot against there to counteract the engine moving okay and you you literally pull that you can stop and re-ratchet and as soon as that beeps that's it 180. so this has got a special it's got a gel on it yeah okay it's got a gyro inside so it remembers where you got to but anyone with a normal um yeah you'd have to just mark it yourself okay okay so pull when you're ready nice and steady and when it beeps stop that's it that was really scary okay so that was enjoyable yeah now you've talked all those up and they're all to spec as with all the bolts that are tightened on vehicles you'll notice that there's blue marks on everything yeah if you'd like to use the pen and uh mark all the bolts mad forward mix pen don't need to mark it in a certain orientation just to mark just so we know they're done cool i'm going to mark them all in one direction because i'm just like that excellent okay mike so cam gearing next camshafts lifters and the cam girdle next yes crack home okay so so that's the end of day one of this episode we've got the engine pretty much finished there'll be a couple of things to do in the morning then we'll get this up into the car see you in the morning we're back for day two and i've been driving about in this depending on when this goes out you may have seen it in our richard hammond workshop open day video and it shows how much i've fallen back in love with mg rover through this series i've bought an mgztt two and a half liter v6 so a similar recipe to my mondeo but it's the estate which is just cooler but never mind this rover let's get inside morning mikk a shiny new alternator there what needs to happen to get this into the car okay so first things alternator on adjusting bracket auxiliary belt alternator belt yep then the engine can come off the stand onto the bench flywheel clutch a few little trim plates and then we can put the transmission on and then it's ready to go in the car easy easy peasy we still needed a few extra bits and pieces to get the car running including crucially a fuel tank fortunately paul from the youtube channel project nigel came to the rescue driving all the way down from rochdale in his own one-of-a-kind rover 25 to drop them off so the heavies have come in and the engine is now connected in terms of all of its engine mounts so it's now solidly in the car the next thing's going to be putting the fuel tank in connecting the fuel to the engine connecting the electrics getting all the fluids into the engine and then we should be good for our startup fingers crossed the fuel tank is now in the lines are connected so now it's time to get some liqui-moly fluids into the car first up is the engine oil this is their 10w40 moly gen it's low friction high performance it's quality stuff and it comes in this pretty cool container next up is their 7590 transmission fluid this stuff will strike the balance between lubrication and friction for those nice slick changes and although it's not relevant for this car because it's a brand new refreshed engine i really recommend this stuff this is likely molly's injector cleaner so if you've got a high mileage car that could do with rescuing a bit of its power you simply put this into your fuel tank it'll run its way around the engine and you'll get some of your brake horses back once the car is a bit more built up we'll get the rest of the fluids in and they will all be from this brand liquid molly has been an awesome sponsor of the series but if you would like to support the channel click the link in the description below and you'll be able to see what products they produce for your car simply plug in your registration to their search function and you'll see everything they have to offer okay let's start her up okay mike so engine's in we've primed the fuel pump so we've got fuel pressure yep um so as before give it a crank make sure we get oil light going out battery light going out and the engine light going out if any of those stay on just stop cranking okay and just a caveat there isn't an exhaust system on it right now so it might sound a bit like a lancaster bomber but i've got a good feeling about this for some reason okay let's uh let's give it a go okay that was slick that sounds so smooth it's good to hear it's firing on four that is that's a bloody good job awesome one awesome way to end the day that engine is sounding so sweet loud but super smooth now the plan still is to finish this car in a final episode and then auction it off and donate the money to a military charity because the military allowed this project to happen and we've chosen a charity it's going to be scotty's little soldiers they're a charity that supports bereaved kids and young adults up to the age of 25 that have lost a parent that was serving in the military i cannot imagine what that feels like so it's going to be awesome to finish this car get it sold and donate to that charity and if you fancy a mint rover 25 stay tuned for that final episode which will be coming very very soon where you can bid on this and that money will go to that awesome cause if you like this video give it a thumbs up i've been mike and don't forget to subscribe to drivetribe youthis is such a weird feeling well good luck there's the keys thank you very much and that looks like something from alien right do you want to lift the rocker cover off i can't get over that yellow gum i've never seen anything like that before welcome to my car graveyard on episode 3 of our rover restoration a lot of you guys will know where this car is from but i want to talk about this in episode 2 we showed you that this was a brand new untouched rover 25 shell and we were going to use it to take bits from and restore my car now there's some pretty serious divots in this one but all of that has led to this the car has been welded painted and that solar red is looking better than it ever did the team has done a bunch of work since the last episode mick it's looking like a minter already yeah the last time we saw you were doing a bit of cutting and welding so what's happened since okay so in the last episode you saw me removing part of the flitch and the inner flitch and the strengthening panel that has all been cut out the new shell and fitted into this we also found some nasties on the driver's side as well so they were cut out and replaced from the new shell yep what really surprised us is we thought the silvers and the actual structure of the car were really good deadly corridors it did until we looked a little bit further and it was just sealer that was holding the sills on okay so unfortunately we had to remove both sills and part of the inner sill structure on the driver's side okay so that's been replaced driver side rear wheel arch that's been rebuilt driver's side rear bumper mount has been rebuilt and a bunch of other stuff inner wings bumper mounts other bits and bobs that were rotten so we've rebuilt those as well so yeah when we first saw the car there was a sort of black lining along the cell which made it look okay but we've got it down here you've got the sill there this is what you cut out yes that is a shocker so how did you find out did you just remove that black stuff we started to get rid of the black coating with a wire wheel yeah and you could just put your finger through it wow okay and was that it were those the surprises so three or four surprises uh the front cross member obviously as you know with all the parts we take off we have sandblasted yeah so we can powder coat which then reveals any nasties that we don't want to see afterwards the front main structural cross member that the engine and the steering hang on tea bagged okay so that's been replaced as well um and one of the structural part that goes across the inner wings at the front that's also tea bags that's been replaced as well so apart from that always good so how much stuff have you taken from that donor shell out in the yard a fair bit to be fair um both inner wing strip top mountains the strength from this side and we actually cut both sill sections out of the new shell guys out there that know about doing body repairs nothing fits better than genuine we've got a genuine shell why would we put spurious sills on it so that's what we did we cut the seals off as on in its entirety uh put them back in spot welded them back on done and parts for rover 25 are relatively cheap so when you're faced with something are you most likely just going to go and replace it or are some things worth repairing um it depends on the part as we've mentioned the front cross member the time and effort to do that it's not worth it yeah for 30 quid you can buy it on the secondhand one sure done you know different i suppose for the guy at home if he's got nothing to do all day that's fine carry on and repair it obviously from a business point of view you've got to look at what's what's most effective um but yeah the body shows definitely done what we we said we were going to do with it okay and in this episode we're going to start rebuilding the car and just like the mondeo you've been powder coating we've been spraying powder coating cleaning so there's some of the the small selection of stuff that we've done drive shafts anti-roll bar steering rack some little brackets and trinkets um just to bring it all back to life and freshen it up okay but the main thing today is going to be getting that k series going we're going to put the head on the k series get it back in the car the guys are going to build the rest of the shell up so hopefully by the end of this episode we should hear a k-series running i cannot wait i remember how gobsmacked i was when i saw the mondeo engine finished this is equally as nice it's an absolute beauty so mick what have you done since we were last here after the disassembly we went through and measured everything to make sure that everything was in spec the crank was out of spec so we had that re-ground so we just had crank grind new big ends new main bearings new thrusts new oil pump um we checked the bores there was zero wearing the bores good so we've cleaned the pistons had those uh blasted and we put brand new rings on rods were fine we've gone for new water pump new oil pump as i said all new gaskets and seals the block was cleaned the cylinder head was reconditioned all cut and that's been skimmed as well so that's all ready to go uh new thermostat and anything else we can find that we that we need to change we have done also i'd like to throw a massive shout out to mir motorsport they pulled it out the bag for me i was struggling to find 1.4 piston rings right and they sorted it right out for me so big shout out to those guys cool so today we're going to be putting all of this back onto here we are indeed the main thing is the head gasket yes so this is the original skanky one yep explain what's going on with this one here okay so we're removing the original type head gasket that rover fitted as everybody knows they were not brilliant and we're actually going to change it to a triple layer head gasket so you can see it's a triple layer sandwich okay much better ceiling properties and it gives a little bit of a a bit of a help with if there's any undulation in anything or anything moves this will help keep it sealed so this is like the darth vader of head gaskets and this is the jar jar binks you could say that yes okay so what's the first thing we need to do to get that under here okay there's a couple of things we need to check one of the major things is liner protrusion we need to make sure that there is a a line of protrusion above the deck of the block in order for the head gasket to seal on the liners okay let's have a go with that so what we use is a dial gauge indicator which would clamp onto the top of the liners so then we zero the dti gauge on the top of the block so we're at zero as you can see and then a little twist of the base which puts us on top of the liner okay so that's and you can see we've got point four of a mill of line of protrusion which is in spec so that just shows that the liner is protruding over the top of the block a very small amount to give our head gasket something to to clamp onto okay so what's too much and what's too little um i believe the maximum is 0.7 of a mil okay and obvious too little would be zero okay so 0.4 is banging on we're banging the middle so we're well on spec there it's important to check each cylinder sleeve is within spec and use shims if needed to ensure good fitment of the head gasket okay so we know the lining protrusions are correct and in spec so all we need to do now is just give a little wipe down we know everything's clean but it doesn't hurt to give it a wipe down yep and if you like to grab the the head gasket noting that it says top on it yes yeah and this way around yeah over the dowels that's it cool we've got to do that a little wipe as well and then the cylinder head same again a little wipe and that's your front that's the front okay and drop her onto your dowels there you go stride on very cool beautiful it just makes sense to me having those three layers and then you actually heard them squish down there you just know that's going to seal better if you can imagine how much clamping force there is between the head and the block when all those bolts are tightened down okay so next is the the legendary long the legendary bolts grab your bolts middle first middle first just make sure they go all the way down into that girdle at the bottom yep that's it that's it little wiggle okay so now we've got a torque sequence that we need to follow okay okay and this is a one hit wonder isn't it this is a one it wonder because these bolts are a torque to yield once they're torqued and stretched that's it okay if you remove them again the bolts have to be thrown away because you can only talk them once cool okay mike so we need to run the head bolts now down to the cylinder head surface so a little speed brace if you run those bolts in and then i can do the talk up procedure okay so what am i waiting for here just to feel it hit the head you'll feel it as you get down it should feel nice and smooth and then when it hits the head it should stop like that okay that's it i proceeded to run the rest of the bolts in before handing back to mick for the torque up procedure okay what next right i need to talk them down right that's the important job so i'll leave that to you i need to be that side okay so this is where that order becomes super important yes it does and what happens if you were to basically torque it just by hand and not go by the instructions what could happen well if there's two things if you don't talk it in the correct sequence you can distort the head or you can over talk or under torque them if you're over taught then there's a possibility of breaking the bolt or pulling the threads out the girdle at the bottom okay so it's telling you 20 newton meters and 180 degrees 180 degrees what does that mean okay 20 newton meters uh is the the first talk of um of strength on the bolt okay and then your second and your third um steps are degrees so basically half a turn and then half a turn okay the reason we do it in two steps is to let that bolt yield if you were to turn that 360 degrees in one hit there's a possibility that bolt would not take it and it would break okay so while we're standing here that bolt is literally very slightly strict correct yeah so by the time you've done bolt number one you've done the other nine by the time you get back to bolt number one it's already it's already stretched so you can do your next 180. very cool okay let's see it okay so we set our units 20 newton meters you know that crush in the head gasket that's your 20 newton meters yeah 20. there you go very cool yeah so that's those three layers compacting together yep okay and while he's doing that the strip down of this engine was the center point of episode two and there were quite a few comments that were saying we were a bit harsh about the k series engine a lot of people were saying that there were retrospective fits that made this engine super reliable and that's fine but from factory these things were ticking time bombs you get to about 40 000 miles the head gasket goes and it can be pretty catastrophic i experienced it myself so yes there are fixes for it but from factory this was a very unreliable engine so i still stand by the title of that video and the thing is it's not that we were slagging off this engine and then chucking it in the bin putting in the scrap peep we're saving it this is going to be one of the best k series engines going on the market we like a k series as we were saying it's rev it's a pretty fun engine to have in a hatchback and this is going to be an awesome one and hopefully by the end of this episode we'll be able to start it up how are we getting on well done that's our first 20 newton metres awesome so now i'm just setting the degrees do you want to have a go at some of these mike yes if i'm elected you'll need to be this side so that's number that's number one i always put your foot against there to counteract the engine moving okay and you you literally pull that you can stop and re-ratchet and as soon as that beeps that's it 180. so this has got a special it's got a gel on it yeah okay it's got a gyro inside so it remembers where you got to but anyone with a normal um yeah you'd have to just mark it yourself okay okay so pull when you're ready nice and steady and when it beeps stop that's it that was really scary okay so that was enjoyable yeah now you've talked all those up and they're all to spec as with all the bolts that are tightened on vehicles you'll notice that there's blue marks on everything yeah if you'd like to use the pen and uh mark all the bolts mad forward mix pen don't need to mark it in a certain orientation just to mark just so we know they're done cool i'm going to mark them all in one direction because i'm just like that excellent okay mike so cam gearing next camshafts lifters and the cam girdle next yes crack home okay so so that's the end of day one of this episode we've got the engine pretty much finished there'll be a couple of things to do in the morning then we'll get this up into the car see you in the morning we're back for day two and i've been driving about in this depending on when this goes out you may have seen it in our richard hammond workshop open day video and it shows how much i've fallen back in love with mg rover through this series i've bought an mgztt two and a half liter v6 so a similar recipe to my mondeo but it's the estate which is just cooler but never mind this rover let's get inside morning mikk a shiny new alternator there what needs to happen to get this into the car okay so first things alternator on adjusting bracket auxiliary belt alternator belt yep then the engine can come off the stand onto the bench flywheel clutch a few little trim plates and then we can put the transmission on and then it's ready to go in the car easy easy peasy we still needed a few extra bits and pieces to get the car running including crucially a fuel tank fortunately paul from the youtube channel project nigel came to the rescue driving all the way down from rochdale in his own one-of-a-kind rover 25 to drop them off so the heavies have come in and the engine is now connected in terms of all of its engine mounts so it's now solidly in the car the next thing's going to be putting the fuel tank in connecting the fuel to the engine connecting the electrics getting all the fluids into the engine and then we should be good for our startup fingers crossed the fuel tank is now in the lines are connected so now it's time to get some liqui-moly fluids into the car first up is the engine oil this is their 10w40 moly gen it's low friction high performance it's quality stuff and it comes in this pretty cool container next up is their 7590 transmission fluid this stuff will strike the balance between lubrication and friction for those nice slick changes and although it's not relevant for this car because it's a brand new refreshed engine i really recommend this stuff this is likely molly's injector cleaner so if you've got a high mileage car that could do with rescuing a bit of its power you simply put this into your fuel tank it'll run its way around the engine and you'll get some of your brake horses back once the car is a bit more built up we'll get the rest of the fluids in and they will all be from this brand liquid molly has been an awesome sponsor of the series but if you would like to support the channel click the link in the description below and you'll be able to see what products they produce for your car simply plug in your registration to their search function and you'll see everything they have to offer okay let's start her up okay mike so engine's in we've primed the fuel pump so we've got fuel pressure yep um so as before give it a crank make sure we get oil light going out battery light going out and the engine light going out if any of those stay on just stop cranking okay and just a caveat there isn't an exhaust system on it right now so it might sound a bit like a lancaster bomber but i've got a good feeling about this for some reason okay let's uh let's give it a go okay that was slick that sounds so smooth it's good to hear it's firing on four that is that's a bloody good job awesome one awesome way to end the day that engine is sounding so sweet loud but super smooth now the plan still is to finish this car in a final episode and then auction it off and donate the money to a military charity because the military allowed this project to happen and we've chosen a charity it's going to be scotty's little soldiers they're a charity that supports bereaved kids and young adults up to the age of 25 that have lost a parent that was serving in the military i cannot imagine what that feels like so it's going to be awesome to finish this car get it sold and donate to that charity and if you fancy a mint rover 25 stay tuned for that final episode which will be coming very very soon where you can bid on this and that money will go to that awesome cause if you like this video give it a thumbs up i've been mike and don't forget to subscribe to drivetribe you\n"