**Installing a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator**

In this video, we'll be installing a rising rate fuel pressure regulator in our engine. The goal of this setup is to increase fuel pressure when we're in boost and decrease it when we're in vacuum.

The reason for this is that when the engine is in vacuum, the vacuum effectively sucks the fuel out of the injectors, whereas when we're in boost, the boost fights the fuel from coming out of the injectors. A rising rate fuel pressure regulator like this one with a vacuum reference helps to keep the fuel pressure at 43.5 psi, or at least on our car.

However, in vacuum, the fuel pressure can be a little lower due to the added assist from the vacuum, and it needs to be higher in boost because of the added resistance from the boost. Therefore, we need to adjust the regulator without the vacuum on, as adjusting with vacuum on will result in a lower pressure reading.

**Installing New Fuel Pulse Damper**

We also installed a new fuel pulse damper into the intake manifold. This is necessary for our setup so that we can see vacuum and make adjustments accordingly.

**Checking for Leaks**

Before firing up the engine, we need to check for any leaks in the system. We turn on the fuel pump, prime it a few times to fill up the new lines, and then check for any signs of leaks. If everything looks good, we can proceed with starting the engine.

**Adjusting Fuel Pressure Regulator**

With the engine running, we need to adjust our base fuel pressure by disconnecting the vacuum line and setting the regulator to 43.5 psi. This is necessary because if we adjust the regulator with vacuum on, it will result in a lower pressure reading than without vacuum.

We pop off the vacuum line, start the engine, and then adjust the regulator to around 43.5 psi while keeping an eye out for any leaks. We observe that the fuel pressure gauge drops drastically when we plug the vacuum back in due to the added assist from the vacuum.

**Verifying Fuel Pressure Gauge**

With the vacuum plugged back in, we verify that the fuel pressure gauge is reading accurately. As expected, the gauge drops when we're in vacuum and creeps up as we transition into boost, reflecting the increase in engine power.

**Conclusion**

We've successfully installed a rising rate fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum reference in our engine. This setup will help us to maintain accurate fuel pressure readings at various engine loads, ensuring optimal performance and preventing leanout during dyno testing.

We hope that this video has provided some useful insights into how to install a fuel system for big power applications. It's not too difficult if you know what you're doing, and the end result is well worth it – it looks sick!

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enrepeat after me you gotta squirt gas to haul ass now as the miata sits as it is it's running a stock fuel pump stock fuel lines stock fuel filter stock fuel rail basically the only thing we upgraded for the turbo kit was the injectors and now we're basically at the limit of our stock fuel pump so i figured that's a pretty good excuse to throw some more money into the pit and upgrade our whole fuel system will all these upgrades be worth the money they cost and the time they require to install i don't know i think it's going to take a lot of time to install all these parts but i think they'll be worth it let's find out today is a huge day why you ask well because today is the day that i get to announce that money pit is officially sponsored by ebay motors for the entire next season and that means we're getting a new car we've come a seriously long way from cleaning stains in my driveway to where we are today and it is all because of you guys so thank you and i figure news like this well it requires some celebrating so let's celebrate ebay is the perfect sponsor for money pit that's why i can't wait to get started working on the new car but the next season doesn't start until june 9th so you gotta stay tuned in the meantime hit the link in the description below to check out ebay motors and let us know in the comments what you think the next car is now the engine bay on the miata has been coming along pretty nicely we've spent a lot of time in here and done a lot of things intake manifold cooling system turbo kit and of course the turbo crams more air into your engine which means you need more fuel and like i said we did upgrade the fuel injectors and that's fine and dandy to a certain power point and we've kind of reached our limit and the last time we went to the dyno we saw that limit we're making about 260 wheel horsepower and above 6000 rpms we started to see our air fuel ratios start to slightly lean out even though we were asking them to stay nice and rich now generally speaking what that means is that you're maxing out some component in your fuel system for us that is the fuel pump in my opinion but i bought a bunch of parts to replace along with the fuel pump so we're gonna make this fuel system very sick today let's take a look at the pile of parts that i've put together all right so starting at the tank and moving forward here's what we've got for a new fuel pump i've got an aem 340 liter per hour e85 compatible fuel pump this thing should flow plenty of fuel and do just the job we need in terms of fuel flow out of the tank of the miata now to wire this thing up i've got dutch works fuel pump wiring kit it's basically a relay kit and we're going to use this to wire our new fuel pump up we do that because bigger fuel pumps draw more power and your stock wiring can't necessarily handle it so we'll use that for that then we've got some diy and lines we're going to figure out how to put an lines together today so that'll be exciting then moving on from there we've got two fuel filters from radium i've got a 100 micron filter here that'll be our first filter then our second filter is 10 microns which is a finer filtration then up at the rail end of things we've got a fresh new radium rail pretty sick made out of aluminum looks awesome and is built to use a bunch of cool radium stuff like a fuel pressure regulator adjustable so we can regulate our fuel pressure and a fuel pulse damper to keep the flow to all of our injectors nice and smooth all the time and we've also got a cute little fuel pressure gauge because who doesn't want to gauge under the hood and that's about it it's kind of a lot of things it's a whole system there's going to be a lot of steps to this i don't think any of it's going to be too terribly hard but boy it's going to be kind of time consuming and we're probably going to get some fuel on us so with that said i reckon we should get cracking okay so the first thing we're going to do we're going to start at the tank and start working on our fuel pump so the first thing i need to do is remove the access panel from the top of the tank all right before i go popping any lines off of the fuel pump center area i need to get as much fuel out of those lines as i can to avoid squirting it all over myself and everything so i've got the fuel pump disconnected i'm just going to start the car and let it run until it dies if it even starts just to use up fuel that's in the lines all right that should have done a pretty good job of removing fuel from our feed lines i'm still going to have some in the lines certainly so still got to be careful and try to catch that stuff fuel's pretty corrosive it will eat concrete coating case in point okay i got a drip tray under the car i've got my eyeball protection on i'm just gonna pop off the feed line from the fuel pump and let the fuel that's in the line drain out all right so fuel mostly out of the lines now i'm going to disconnect them here at the access panel and it would be really easy for me to get confused as to which one of these identical rubber hoses is the feed and the return so i'm just going to put a yellow mark on one so i know where it came from just to keep my brain straight okay no drama there that's great now it's time to find out if we can fit this thing out of here i'm sure it's going to be fine i'm sure when they made the roll bar they were thinking about that oh my god out of my way and just as easy as that it's out really not that big of a deal oh i am a little covered in fuel now saddle up set your spurs on down donuts made the sickest hat in town licensed realtree camo on your head yeah that's what i said sing it c-a-m-o-h-a-t that is made for you and me so now you can represent your favorite automotive brand when you're on the road on the lake or up in that blind only available at donutmedia.com get you one whether you're fixing cars or in the woods donuts got you looking good in your cmoat blend in and stand out in doughnut country okay before we go slamming our new pump in i have to modify it which i know seems a little weird but this is a nice pump it uh flows a lot it's relatively quiet relatively affordable it's the same pump that i have in the 240 and a long time ago we did an episode of me trying to figure out why that thing wasn't running and the reason it wasn't running was because the fuel feed line had just popped off of the fuel pump as far as i could tell the reason that that happened was because this fuel pump unlike many others this is just straight here there's no barb there's no flange there's no nothing to mechanically lock your fuel line on so i'm gonna cut just a very light groove or two into uh the outlet here of the fuel pump uh just to make sure that my hose never pops off like it did over there okay now it may not look like much man that's because it's not but that little tiny notch is gonna help keep my fuel feed line on the pump which means i'm not gonna have to get back in there and put it back on so these spring clamps can be tricky to get to just regular pliers sometimes so when they are there are these and these are fantastic you grab both sides they lock in place and they let you actually grip these kind of clamps all right fuel pump is in its bracket with a nice green sock on getting this stuff tightened up and then this is basically ready to go back in the car except that i have to connect the pigtail for the new fuel pump to the connector from the old fuel pump now this is the part that hangs me up the most i you know you rewire all this stuff but you're still kind of left with using the factory bulkhead connector that goes from the inside of the tank to the outside my concern here is that these wires would be too small but they do usually make the in-tank wires pretty beefy so we're going to be okay factory fresh now with one little clicky this thing's basically ready to go back in except i still got to put this back on don't do that real quick and then we can dump in our new fuel pump and we're off to the races all right so we got a new fuel pump in our tank that's awesome now we're going to work on wiring it up using that dutch works fuel pump wiring kit that i was talking about we're basically just going gonna be adding a little circuit with a relay to give all the power that this fuel pump wants to it so we've just got a nice little power distribution block there that we'll be able to tap into for the main power for the fuel pump on this new relay that we're gonna put in then we'll trigger the relay with the stock fuel pump wiring so when the car tells the fuel pump to turn on it'll actually be telling our relay to turn on which will allow power to come from this strip here to our fuel pump sick okay with our fuel pump relay wired up now it's time to work on our new fancy fuel lines and filter so that's why i'm underneath the car so this is the factory fuel filter right here i'm going to switch over to am lines down here where these rubber lines are i'm also probably going to replace this fuel filter with at least one of the fuel filters we have okay so we've got our old fuel filter and the rubber hoses that connected it to our fuel lines out of the way so now i'm going to put in some am lines and that's pretty cool but it can be kind of tricky to go from your factory hard lines to a n lines i mean how do you do it the best way to do it i've got these little adapters i got these from fab9 they sell a lot of miata stuff and so they carry these from vibrant these are a 5 16 hard line to a dash 6an adapter and what do you know the miata's fuel lines are 5 16. so i'm basically going to use a little tube cutter to cut the the flares off of my stock hard lines and then i'll be able to use these compression fittings to screw onto the hard lines and give myself a dash 6 a.n connection for all my new lines and fittings so that'll be great and the reason again that i want to replace these old rubber hoses is that i want to be able to run e85 in the future so everything from here forward will be either metal hard line or the hose that i'm using with the dash and fittings which is a ptfe which is corrosion resistant for alcohol e85 all that stuff so it'll be great okay we've got our first fuel filter roughly mounted in place uh now all we got to do is get some lines connected to it okay so the first thing i'm going to do in order to start making this a in line is cut a fresh new end off of this hose there's a lot of ways you can do this they sell big cutters you know and those are okay but they can dull and you know you don't really get any other use out of them but you can also just use a cut-off wheel which is what i'm going to use so you want to put a little tape over the braided line where you want to cut it and that tape's going to help keep the braiding from fraying when you cut it not bad so that is not frayed it's nice and circular still it didn't get all wonkered out now i'm going to clean up the tubing in there with my deburring tool then well we got to blow this thing out i got to go with the air hose this ultimately is going to transport fuel to your engine and you don't want that debris going through your injectors really your engine would eat it up just fine okay so there we've got a nice square start so now we're going to push this out a little bit and get our fitting putting a 90 on this end so take apart the hose end just got to slip this unit over now we got to bend and kind of pry that uh braiding away from the tubing so we can get a little compression fitting in between the tubing and the braiding because you can see i don't know if i've said this but this is a basically a nylon tubing inside of steel braiding and then whatever this cloth braiding or whatever braiding is on the outside so we're just going to pry it back leg so looks like it came with a tool for putting these in rather than my hammer so let's see if we might still want the hammer yeah there we go and there you can see the tubing comes all the way to the end and meets up with that collar at the front now we take our 90 plop her in like so run this guy up and it's never a bad idea to put a little lube on aluminum threads this is not a twist cap what am i doing uh and fittings basically are all standard so you can use standard wrenches but you can also damage your fittings with these crescent wrenches also work you can just put some tape over the face if you're worried about damaging the fittings i however not too worried all right so now i've got my line from the first filter up to the second filter completed the routing looks good it's nice and tight to the body no concerns about it you know hitting the ground while i'm driving or anything like that so i think this looks good all right so now it's time to start putting together our fuel rail assembly now obviously we've got the fuel rail but there's a few pieces that are going to go on it we've got some kit here from radium and it all should play together really nicely because that's what they made it to do so we've got a fuel pressure regulator adjustable and that's going to go at the end of the fuel rail and we'll also have a little fuel pressure gauge sticking off of it so we can see our fuel pressure under the hood and then we've got this fuel pulse damper inside the fuel rail at higher rpms the fuel can start pulsing and then that kind of affects the way it comes through your injectors so this fuel pulse damper is almost like a shock absorber for your fuel rail and it keeps your fuel pressure nice and steady and even throughout without any pulsing now that our new rail setup is ready we're going to take off this ugly old stock rail so these are the injectors that we installed when we did the turbo kit they're fuel injector clinic uh 660s if i recall correctly we're sticking with them for now but when the day comes that we're trying to make big power on e85 we might need to upgrade to a larger injector all right our new rail is in and it looks pretty sick so now all we need to do to finish this whole project up is get a line made that goes from our second filter into the rail and then a line that goes from the fuel pressure regulator's return side and back to our return line and so that's not that much left i think we can do it and with that our last fuel line is complete now we just got to put it on and that was pretty much time to fire this thing up all right last step i almost forgot we got to run some vacuum lines to our new bits the fuel pressure regulator needs to see engine vacuum and or boost specifically so that it can increase fuel pressure uh when we're in boost and so that it can decrease fuel pressure when we're in vacuum and basically the reason it does that is because when you're in vacuum the vacuum in the engine effectively sucks the fuel out of your injectors and when you're in boost the boost in your engine effectively fights the fuel from coming out of the injectors so a rising rate fuel pressure regulator like this with a vacuum reference basically its job is to keep the fuel pressure effectively at 43.5 psi at least on this car 43.5 psi but the point is that in vacuum it can be a little bit lower because of the added assist from the vacuum and it needs to be higher in boost because of the added resistance from the boost and our new fuel pulse damper also needs to see vacuum so i got to those into the intake manifold and then final check you know put a wrench on everything and then okay moment of truth what do you think likelihood of leaks so i'm going to turn the key on a few times to uh turn on the fuel pump prime it a few times to fill up our new lines and if we see no leaks then we'll proceed to fire this thing up well i can hear the fuel pump running that's good news that means our wiring must be okay now let's prime it one more time let's see if we've got any leaks dry dry wow wonderful stuff and we're sitting at about 38 psi fuel pressure well that's great news so i think it's time to start this thing then it's going to be time while it's running to adjust our base fuel pressure that means we need to disconnect the vacuum from it and get it set at like i said earlier 43.5 psi don't ask me why it's 43.5 psi but it is but the point is that you need to adjust it without the vacuum on because if you're adjusting with vacuum on its pressure is going to be lower than it would be without vacuum like we talked about earlier with the whole vacuum and boost thing so i'll pop off the vacuum line start this thing up and then we'll adjust our little knobby to about 43.5 and we'll keep an eye out for leaks wow all right leaks no leaks okay grab 40. okay we're gonna call that 43 and a half uh we're obviously aiming in between hash marks so that's fine close enough certainly i'll plug our vacuum back in and now watch what happens when i plug vacuum back in on the gauge fuel pressure drops drastically because the vacuum in the engine is helping pull fuel out of the injectors so as we get on the gas pedal and head out of vacuum and towards atmospheric pressure this gauge will come up to 43 and a half at atmospheric pressure and then as we transition into boost it'll creep up one psi per psi of boost so at one psi of boost 44.5 psi of fuel pressure so on and so forth and that just helps keep us squirting enough gas to keep hauling enough ass no matter how much boost we're throwing so wow what a setup honestly couldn't be happier this looks sick the car is not going to lean out next time we're on the dyno and now we've got a fuel system that can handle big power for when we choose to go down that road but that's going to do it for this week this is a great install and i'm really happy with the way it turned out i hope you guys learned something like how to put together lines it's really not that hard as long as you know what you're doing and in my opinion all this stuff has been worth it it really wasn't that difficult although it did take some time but look how sick it is and it's such good stuff it's a cool bit of kit so i'm really pumped about it i think this has been worth it and i hope you guys think the same thing let me know in the comments make sure you like this video and subscribe to the channel and don't forget to follow me on instagram zackjob and donna at donutmedia see you guys next weekrepeat after me you gotta squirt gas to haul ass now as the miata sits as it is it's running a stock fuel pump stock fuel lines stock fuel filter stock fuel rail basically the only thing we upgraded for the turbo kit was the injectors and now we're basically at the limit of our stock fuel pump so i figured that's a pretty good excuse to throw some more money into the pit and upgrade our whole fuel system will all these upgrades be worth the money they cost and the time they require to install i don't know i think it's going to take a lot of time to install all these parts but i think they'll be worth it let's find out today is a huge day why you ask well because today is the day that i get to announce that money pit is officially sponsored by ebay motors for the entire next season and that means we're getting a new car we've come a seriously long way from cleaning stains in my driveway to where we are today and it is all because of you guys so thank you and i figure news like this well it requires some celebrating so let's celebrate ebay is the perfect sponsor for money pit that's why i can't wait to get started working on the new car but the next season doesn't start until june 9th so you gotta stay tuned in the meantime hit the link in the description below to check out ebay motors and let us know in the comments what you think the next car is now the engine bay on the miata has been coming along pretty nicely we've spent a lot of time in here and done a lot of things intake manifold cooling system turbo kit and of course the turbo crams more air into your engine which means you need more fuel and like i said we did upgrade the fuel injectors and that's fine and dandy to a certain power point and we've kind of reached our limit and the last time we went to the dyno we saw that limit we're making about 260 wheel horsepower and above 6000 rpms we started to see our air fuel ratios start to slightly lean out even though we were asking them to stay nice and rich now generally speaking what that means is that you're maxing out some component in your fuel system for us that is the fuel pump in my opinion but i bought a bunch of parts to replace along with the fuel pump so we're gonna make this fuel system very sick today let's take a look at the pile of parts that i've put together all right so starting at the tank and moving forward here's what we've got for a new fuel pump i've got an aem 340 liter per hour e85 compatible fuel pump this thing should flow plenty of fuel and do just the job we need in terms of fuel flow out of the tank of the miata now to wire this thing up i've got dutch works fuel pump wiring kit it's basically a relay kit and we're going to use this to wire our new fuel pump up we do that because bigger fuel pumps draw more power and your stock wiring can't necessarily handle it so we'll use that for that then we've got some diy and lines we're going to figure out how to put an lines together today so that'll be exciting then moving on from there we've got two fuel filters from radium i've got a 100 micron filter here that'll be our first filter then our second filter is 10 microns which is a finer filtration then up at the rail end of things we've got a fresh new radium rail pretty sick made out of aluminum looks awesome and is built to use a bunch of cool radium stuff like a fuel pressure regulator adjustable so we can regulate our fuel pressure and a fuel pulse damper to keep the flow to all of our injectors nice and smooth all the time and we've also got a cute little fuel pressure gauge because who doesn't want to gauge under the hood and that's about it it's kind of a lot of things it's a whole system there's going to be a lot of steps to this i don't think any of it's going to be too terribly hard but boy it's going to be kind of time consuming and we're probably going to get some fuel on us so with that said i reckon we should get cracking okay so the first thing we're going to do we're going to start at the tank and start working on our fuel pump so the first thing i need to do is remove the access panel from the top of the tank all right before i go popping any lines off of the fuel pump center area i need to get as much fuel out of those lines as i can to avoid squirting it all over myself and everything so i've got the fuel pump disconnected i'm just going to start the car and let it run until it dies if it even starts just to use up fuel that's in the lines all right that should have done a pretty good job of removing fuel from our feed lines i'm still going to have some in the lines certainly so still got to be careful and try to catch that stuff fuel's pretty corrosive it will eat concrete coating case in point okay i got a drip tray under the car i've got my eyeball protection on i'm just gonna pop off the feed line from the fuel pump and let the fuel that's in the line drain out all right so fuel mostly out of the lines now i'm going to disconnect them here at the access panel and it would be really easy for me to get confused as to which one of these identical rubber hoses is the feed and the return so i'm just going to put a yellow mark on one so i know where it came from just to keep my brain straight okay no drama there that's great now it's time to find out if we can fit this thing out of here i'm sure it's going to be fine i'm sure when they made the roll bar they were thinking about that oh my god out of my way and just as easy as that it's out really not that big of a deal oh i am a little covered in fuel now saddle up set your spurs on down donuts made the sickest hat in town licensed realtree camo on your head yeah that's what i said sing it c-a-m-o-h-a-t that is made for you and me so now you can represent your favorite automotive brand when you're on the road on the lake or up in that blind only available at donutmedia.com get you one whether you're fixing cars or in the woods donuts got you looking good in your cmoat blend in and stand out in doughnut country okay before we go slamming our new pump in i have to modify it which i know seems a little weird but this is a nice pump it uh flows a lot it's relatively quiet relatively affordable it's the same pump that i have in the 240 and a long time ago we did an episode of me trying to figure out why that thing wasn't running and the reason it wasn't running was because the fuel feed line had just popped off of the fuel pump as far as i could tell the reason that that happened was because this fuel pump unlike many others this is just straight here there's no barb there's no flange there's no nothing to mechanically lock your fuel line on so i'm gonna cut just a very light groove or two into uh the outlet here of the fuel pump uh just to make sure that my hose never pops off like it did over there okay now it may not look like much man that's because it's not but that little tiny notch is gonna help keep my fuel feed line on the pump which means i'm not gonna have to get back in there and put it back on so these spring clamps can be tricky to get to just regular pliers sometimes so when they are there are these and these are fantastic you grab both sides they lock in place and they let you actually grip these kind of clamps all right fuel pump is in its bracket with a nice green sock on getting this stuff tightened up and then this is basically ready to go back in the car except that i have to connect the pigtail for the new fuel pump to the connector from the old fuel pump now this is the part that hangs me up the most i you know you rewire all this stuff but you're still kind of left with using the factory bulkhead connector that goes from the inside of the tank to the outside my concern here is that these wires would be too small but they do usually make the in-tank wires pretty beefy so we're going to be okay factory fresh now with one little clicky this thing's basically ready to go back in except i still got to put this back on don't do that real quick and then we can dump in our new fuel pump and we're off to the races all right so we got a new fuel pump in our tank that's awesome now we're going to work on wiring it up using that dutch works fuel pump wiring kit that i was talking about we're basically just going gonna be adding a little circuit with a relay to give all the power that this fuel pump wants to it so we've just got a nice little power distribution block there that we'll be able to tap into for the main power for the fuel pump on this new relay that we're gonna put in then we'll trigger the relay with the stock fuel pump wiring so when the car tells the fuel pump to turn on it'll actually be telling our relay to turn on which will allow power to come from this strip here to our fuel pump sick okay with our fuel pump relay wired up now it's time to work on our new fancy fuel lines and filter so that's why i'm underneath the car so this is the factory fuel filter right here i'm going to switch over to am lines down here where these rubber lines are i'm also probably going to replace this fuel filter with at least one of the fuel filters we have okay so we've got our old fuel filter and the rubber hoses that connected it to our fuel lines out of the way so now i'm going to put in some am lines and that's pretty cool but it can be kind of tricky to go from your factory hard lines to a n lines i mean how do you do it the best way to do it i've got these little adapters i got these from fab9 they sell a lot of miata stuff and so they carry these from vibrant these are a 5 16 hard line to a dash 6an adapter and what do you know the miata's fuel lines are 5 16. so i'm basically going to use a little tube cutter to cut the the flares off of my stock hard lines and then i'll be able to use these compression fittings to screw onto the hard lines and give myself a dash 6 a.n connection for all my new lines and fittings so that'll be great and the reason again that i want to replace these old rubber hoses is that i want to be able to run e85 in the future so everything from here forward will be either metal hard line or the hose that i'm using with the dash and fittings which is a ptfe which is corrosion resistant for alcohol e85 all that stuff so it'll be great okay we've got our first fuel filter roughly mounted in place uh now all we got to do is get some lines connected to it okay so the first thing i'm going to do in order to start making this a in line is cut a fresh new end off of this hose there's a lot of ways you can do this they sell big cutters you know and those are okay but they can dull and you know you don't really get any other use out of them but you can also just use a cut-off wheel which is what i'm going to use so you want to put a little tape over the braided line where you want to cut it and that tape's going to help keep the braiding from fraying when you cut it not bad so that is not frayed it's nice and circular still it didn't get all wonkered out now i'm going to clean up the tubing in there with my deburring tool then well we got to blow this thing out i got to go with the air hose this ultimately is going to transport fuel to your engine and you don't want that debris going through your injectors really your engine would eat it up just fine okay so there we've got a nice square start so now we're going to push this out a little bit and get our fitting putting a 90 on this end so take apart the hose end just got to slip this unit over now we got to bend and kind of pry that uh braiding away from the tubing so we can get a little compression fitting in between the tubing and the braiding because you can see i don't know if i've said this but this is a basically a nylon tubing inside of steel braiding and then whatever this cloth braiding or whatever braiding is on the outside so we're just going to pry it back leg so looks like it came with a tool for putting these in rather than my hammer so let's see if we might still want the hammer yeah there we go and there you can see the tubing comes all the way to the end and meets up with that collar at the front now we take our 90 plop her in like so run this guy up and it's never a bad idea to put a little lube on aluminum threads this is not a twist cap what am i doing uh and fittings basically are all standard so you can use standard wrenches but you can also damage your fittings with these crescent wrenches also work you can just put some tape over the face if you're worried about damaging the fittings i however not too worried all right so now i've got my line from the first filter up to the second filter completed the routing looks good it's nice and tight to the body no concerns about it you know hitting the ground while i'm driving or anything like that so i think this looks good all right so now it's time to start putting together our fuel rail assembly now obviously we've got the fuel rail but there's a few pieces that are going to go on it we've got some kit here from radium and it all should play together really nicely because that's what they made it to do so we've got a fuel pressure regulator adjustable and that's going to go at the end of the fuel rail and we'll also have a little fuel pressure gauge sticking off of it so we can see our fuel pressure under the hood and then we've got this fuel pulse damper inside the fuel rail at higher rpms the fuel can start pulsing and then that kind of affects the way it comes through your injectors so this fuel pulse damper is almost like a shock absorber for your fuel rail and it keeps your fuel pressure nice and steady and even throughout without any pulsing now that our new rail setup is ready we're going to take off this ugly old stock rail so these are the injectors that we installed when we did the turbo kit they're fuel injector clinic uh 660s if i recall correctly we're sticking with them for now but when the day comes that we're trying to make big power on e85 we might need to upgrade to a larger injector all right our new rail is in and it looks pretty sick so now all we need to do to finish this whole project up is get a line made that goes from our second filter into the rail and then a line that goes from the fuel pressure regulator's return side and back to our return line and so that's not that much left i think we can do it and with that our last fuel line is complete now we just got to put it on and that was pretty much time to fire this thing up all right last step i almost forgot we got to run some vacuum lines to our new bits the fuel pressure regulator needs to see engine vacuum and or boost specifically so that it can increase fuel pressure uh when we're in boost and so that it can decrease fuel pressure when we're in vacuum and basically the reason it does that is because when you're in vacuum the vacuum in the engine effectively sucks the fuel out of your injectors and when you're in boost the boost in your engine effectively fights the fuel from coming out of the injectors so a rising rate fuel pressure regulator like this with a vacuum reference basically its job is to keep the fuel pressure effectively at 43.5 psi at least on this car 43.5 psi but the point is that in vacuum it can be a little bit lower because of the added assist from the vacuum and it needs to be higher in boost because of the added resistance from the boost and our new fuel pulse damper also needs to see vacuum so i got to those into the intake manifold and then final check you know put a wrench on everything and then okay moment of truth what do you think likelihood of leaks so i'm going to turn the key on a few times to uh turn on the fuel pump prime it a few times to fill up our new lines and if we see no leaks then we'll proceed to fire this thing up well i can hear the fuel pump running that's good news that means our wiring must be okay now let's prime it one more time let's see if we've got any leaks dry dry wow wonderful stuff and we're sitting at about 38 psi fuel pressure well that's great news so i think it's time to start this thing then it's going to be time while it's running to adjust our base fuel pressure that means we need to disconnect the vacuum from it and get it set at like i said earlier 43.5 psi don't ask me why it's 43.5 psi but it is but the point is that you need to adjust it without the vacuum on because if you're adjusting with vacuum on its pressure is going to be lower than it would be without vacuum like we talked about earlier with the whole vacuum and boost thing so i'll pop off the vacuum line start this thing up and then we'll adjust our little knobby to about 43.5 and we'll keep an eye out for leaks wow all right leaks no leaks okay grab 40. okay we're gonna call that 43 and a half uh we're obviously aiming in between hash marks so that's fine close enough certainly i'll plug our vacuum back in and now watch what happens when i plug vacuum back in on the gauge fuel pressure drops drastically because the vacuum in the engine is helping pull fuel out of the injectors so as we get on the gas pedal and head out of vacuum and towards atmospheric pressure this gauge will come up to 43 and a half at atmospheric pressure and then as we transition into boost it'll creep up one psi per psi of boost so at one psi of boost 44.5 psi of fuel pressure so on and so forth and that just helps keep us squirting enough gas to keep hauling enough ass no matter how much boost we're throwing so wow what a setup honestly couldn't be happier this looks sick the car is not going to lean out next time we're on the dyno and now we've got a fuel system that can handle big power for when we choose to go down that road but that's going to do it for this week this is a great install and i'm really happy with the way it turned out i hope you guys learned something like how to put together lines it's really not that hard as long as you know what you're doing and in my opinion all this stuff has been worth it it really wasn't that difficult although it did take some time but look how sick it is and it's such good stuff it's a cool bit of kit so i'm really pumped about it i think this has been worth it and i hope you guys think the same thing let me know in the comments make sure you like this video and subscribe to the channel and don't forget to follow me on instagram zackjob and donna at donutmedia see you guys next week