**The Journey to Perfecting a Mercedes-Benz S-Class: A Step-by-Step Guide**
---
### **Introduction**
In this detailed article, we follow Taris as he embarks on the final stages of bodywork and preparation for his beloved Mercedes-Benz S-Class. The car, which has undergone significant repairs and modifications, is now almost ready to be transformed with a Plasti Dip coating. This process involves meticulous sanding, rust repair, and some creative fixes to ensure the vehicle looks its best.
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### **Fixing the Hood Mechanism**
Taris begins by addressing a recent issue with the hood mechanism. During his last project, he discovered that the hood wouldn’t open properly because he had forgotten to install a spring after replacing it. After realizing his mistake, Taris enlisted the help of someone to hold the hood up while he yanked on the opening mechanism. Fortunately, the mechanism worked, and the new spring was installed successfully. This incident serves as a reminder of the importance of double-checking all components before closing the hood.
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### **Sanding Scratches and Preparing for Plasti Dip**
The next step involves tackling the numerous scratches and gouges on the car’s body. Taris opts to use a 150-grit dual-action sander, which he finds effective for removing deep scratches in the clear coat. He explains that while paint is thin and can easily reveal underlying imperfections, Plasti Dip acts as a thick, rubberized coating with excellent coverage. This means minor imperfections will be hidden once applied.
Taris proceeds to sand the front bumper manually, despite the primer’s jagged finish from the body shop. Wet-sanding with 180-grit paper smooths out the bumper, ensuring a uniform appearance. He emphasizes that patience and careful sanding are crucial for achieving a flawless finish.
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### **Addressing Rust Issues**
Rust is another concern for Taris. On the driver’s side door, he identifies rust bubbles and decides to treat them with a rust preventative formula. After masking off the area and applying Bondo body filler, he ensures the surface remains smooth and ready for further treatment. Similar steps are taken on the passenger side, where additional rust spots are addressed.
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### **Deburring and Detailing**
Taris also focuses on removing badges from the car’s exterior to achieve a cleaner look. Using a heat gun and trim removal tools, he successfully removes the S500 badge from the trunk. While he leaves the Mercedes badge intact for brand recognition, he hints at future plans to remove it as well.
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### **Challenges with Ordering Parts**
Throughout the process, Taris faces challenges in sourcing specific parts. He mentions needing six new parking sensors and a rare body kit, which are either unavailable or prohibitively expensive on eBay. Despite these obstacles, he remains determined to proceed with the project, ensuring all panels are ready for the Plasti Dip application.
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### **Conclusion**
By the end of this final preparation day, Taris has made significant progress. The front bumper is smooth, the hood is free of visible scratches, and rust spots have been repaired. While there are still parts to order and potential delays, he expresses satisfaction with the work done so far. He looks forward to applying the Plasti Dip in the next episode, promising more updates soon.
---
### **Next Steps**
With the car’s exterior prepared, Taris plans to address remaining rust spots, possibly do some deburring, and ensure all panels fit perfectly before proceeding with the Plasti Dip. His dedication to achieving a flawless finish is evident as he prepares for the next phase of this extensive project.
In conclusion, this article captures Taris's meticulous approach to restoring his Mercedes-Benz S-Class, highlighting the challenges and triumphs encountered along the way. Stay tuned for the next episode where he will finally apply the Plasti Dip and reveal the car’s new look!
"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhow's it going guys my name is Taris and today is the final day of Bodywork and prep before we plast to dip my Mercedes-Benz S-class okay well I managed to clean up my garage just a little bit got uh got some of those body panels out of here but here she is the S-Class is almost almost ready this would be the semifinals uh or the finals or I'm not sure what analogy I can come up with but um the last time I left you off this car had a little bit of an issue the hood couldn't come up uh I couldn't open the hood for some reason because well the reason was because I I'm a dummy and uh I closed the hood when I wasn't when I didn't check the mechanism was working properly thankfully the mechanism was working properly but I just forgot to put a spring in there from the old hood and uh basically all I needed to do was have somebody hold the hood up while I while I yanked on the the uh the hood opening mechanism and it opened right up and I put the new spring in there and now it opens up as it should I have everything on the front end pretty much bolted up uh all the the hardware for the bumper and all that that's all connected the headlights are connected everything is ready to go other than this body work so last time you guys saw all these uh nasty and gnarly scratches all over the hood and there's some scratches and and gouges on the uh rest of the car there's also some Rust I think on that side on that door and they actually are some Rust bubbles like up here and up here what we're going to do today is we are going to be sanding out these scratches now I'm not going to be doing a full Bodywork restoration it's just going to be basically uh quick and simple I'm going to be using 150 grit on a dual action da sander and just getting all these nasty scratches especially the ones like this it is uh it's in the clear coat but it's kind of deep like I can feel it with my fingernail so I'm just going to get that out with my da sander um the reason why I'm using 150 grit is because plasa dip unlike paint uh Plasti Dip almost acts like a high Build primer so paint is paint is very thin so unless you apply it unless you apply many many coats paint is going to be thin and whatever imperfection you have whatever Bondo and rough edges and and whatnot that you have that is going to shine through and you'll see that through the paint Plasti Dip is a little bit different Plasti Dip is a rubberized coating and it goes on a lot thicker so the thickness of it is pretty much going to save us we need to do like three base coats then we need to do like three color coats and then maybe even a top coat of like a pearlizer or something and that's going to basically have a self-leveling action uh meaning that any imperfections uh any scratches and whatnot it's going to hide it really really well I'm actually not sure if I even need to sand this but I'm just going to do it just in case especially on stuff like this like the more egregious Parts there I go saying that word again um yeah this is definitely like it's pretty rough and uh that basically this entire hood is just going to need to be sanded back a little bit and also so if we look right here right there that is also a rust bubble so I'm just going to mask this off uh hit it with a wire wheel have some Rust preventative formula and uh then put on a little bit of body filler and this should be good as new and that's going to go for the opposite side the um passenger side door I think the back end is pretty okay I'm not going to be doing small dents um this is a daily driver so I'm there's like tiny dings sort of all over the car and I'm not too worried about those but one thing I sort of have to wait for is stuff like the parking sensors um so anybody that's doing this swap will know that the parking sensors from the 200 uh to 2003 well the facelift versus a non-f facelift the parking sensors are different so so I have to order six new parking sensors and I also have to order for some reason I can't find this part and everybody that's selling it on eBay for just that one part they went like a 100 bucks so I I don't know what to do I need this and also like two uh two of these on the other side apparently this is a pretty rare body kit to have on this car or at least the s55 is is pretty rare to have in the 2003 to 2006 because because um yeah I mean I can't find it anywhere and if I can it's like $100 and I don't know about you I'm not beat for spending $150 or something on what basically amounts to a bunch of plastic so I'm going to try to find those but those might be holding up this project that and the parking sensors um yeah so I might have to wait a little bit on that but until then we can get done with the prep and make this car as ready as it can be for that plasta dip experience so let's get to work Hypno by the sounds Brea in tight Collide hold tight hold tight hold tight dripping light paint the all because of okay that was actually a lot faster than I thought um I knocked back all the scratches and there's a uniform sort of chalkboard appearance which is exactly what I want the uh Plasti Dip should adhere pretty well especially after I give the entire thing a wash with alcohol but I'm going to go a little bit further down and uh I have to sand out some of this primer um that the body shop that I got this bumper from or or rather the body shop that fixed my bumper uh they sort of put a top coat of primer and that primer was like a high Build primer and it just made a really Jagged finish so I'm going to hand sand with 180 grit I'm going to wet sand this entire bumper uh it doesn't actually seem like that big a job it should take me like maybe 10 minutes but uh just so it has a smooth to the touch finish and it's not like you know crater and and crack field but uh this has come along pretty quickly so after I do this then I'm going to be basically done with the front end then we can move further back and uh attack some of those rust spots because I think those are going to be the real trouble areas and after that maybe we'll even do a little bit of a debadging but uh I don't know if we're going to get to that uh hopefully we will but uh for now I'm just going to sand this bumper and uh hopefully make this thing look even better so that took a lot longer than 10 minutes but the bumper is really really smooth and that's what I wanted because this is going to be the thing that attracts the eye uh the most this is going to be the front face of the car and I want it looking on point and uh I do look like uh I'm I'm straight out of a party uh from the 80s but that's not the important bit because the front end is essentially done now I'm not going to be masking off anything in this video because there is still a few there are still a few things left to do mainly um there are little clips that I have to order in order for me to put the grill in and by the way if any of you are willing to do this the grills themselves the three grills they are stupid expensive so these grills are like $200 a piece I have no idea why it's just regular mesh with like a little bit of a of a metal backbone and that's it but they're $200 so make sure that if you buy a bumper it comes with the grills um the only problem with my bumper is that the um there's like little clips that the grills pop into and when the body shop fixed the bumper they did it with fiberglass and they managed to break some of the clips the clips themselves are like five bucks that's no problem but I'm going to have to sort of drill holes into the bumper where the clips used to be and uh put the Clips in and then put the grill in and then uh prep everything like mask everything off and maybe I'll even take off the headlights just to make it that much easier but I am rambling right now because I am going to put put down I'm going to put put down I'm going to put down the car I am going to put the car on the ground and uh turn it around and we are going to start on some of that rust I know this is probably too late to say but uh if you guys are doing something like this in a garage make sure you work in a well ventilated area uh every time I had uh any sort of uh contaminants I always had a window or the garage door open just to crack uh because you want some fresh air coming in because you really don't want the entire uh room filling up with that uh chemical garbage going into your lungs you don't want that all right now that the car has turned around and in the air uh you can see this was the S skirt that we were working on before and uh off camera I just sanded it down it's no big deal sanded it down and put some primer on it and it actually looks pretty clean uh it's not perfect but it's good enough for me there's no uh nasty waves in it it and uh the only issue is like right here I don't know if you can see it it's like a little little pit right there but I'm not too worried about that that's uh basically like a rock chip anywhere else so that's uh that's good enough for me I might put some Putty in there uh before I do a plaster dip but that's that's just a might what we have to do is this so this is the rust spot well there are two one right here and one over here what going to do is uh since I treated this with some Rust um stopper it basically turns the rust uh from a gold color to this black uh brown color which is uh kind of cool it has like a chemical bond with a metal and uh you can see how it how it changes color sort of in real time but what I'm going to do is I sanded this down I cleaned this with with alcohol and I'm just going to put a very light layer of Bondo though on here and I'm going to try to adhere to this uh this body line right here and this is going to be really really light just skim this and then sand it um the key is again very very light coats and a hell of a lot of sanding and the same thing goes for here but it should be pretty easy um it's just that this is a little bit of a little bit Pock marked so this will just smooth it out so let's get to it TI Collide tight here is the sort of product this is the first coat uh I will be sanding this down and the same goes for over here now I did a rookie mistake I put way too much hardener and ended up with a lot more Bondo than I needed did the reason why is because this is a cream hardener see if we can get that this is a cream hardener and I don't know why but mine was very it's basically like water had the viscosity of water and it just dripped out and you're supposed to have basically a golf ball size of Bondo to a PE of hardener and this was let's just say a little bit more than a piece so it hardens super fast I could put one coat on uh on the door on both sides sides but um just for you guys at home um you're going to want to be careful with that hardener but while this is drying let's go around to the back we can do a debadging now I don't know about you but I'm not really a fan of these badges in the back I have no problem with this Mercedes badge that actually makes it look kind of cool uh and it is a little bit of a a brand recognition thing but the S5 00 I'm not impressing anybody I don't really care about that um and actually one of the most popular mods uh from the dealer in Europe is debadging so what I'm going to do is uh kind of go with that tradition and take this badge off this should be super easy uh all I'm going to do is use a heat gun and then uh get some trim removal tools and this should come right off you can actually take this off as well there are screws in the back so I have to open up up the trunk and take off the trunk lining and there are three screws and I think I'm going to end up having to take this off in any case just because uh when I plasta dip it's going to make it a lot easier to peel this off it's going to I don't need any uh any weird lines around here maybe I'll do something interesting with uh with this but uh for now let's get rid of this S500 badge ah I hate it dripping light paint the sky only you and the offending badge is gone uh it took took a little more effort than I thought um which is sort of the theme of my channel took a little more effort than I thought that's going to be the by line of my autobiography but um after I took it off uh took off the initial badge with the heat gun what I had to do was use a lot of U you might use Gan I use uh this thing is called oops and um I don't think this really works all that well but uh with some elbow grease with a lot of elbow grease in fact my elbow is quite greasy uh actually devoid of Grease because I use it all um I managed to make this as smooth as possible and also you can use a little bit of a Polish uh just to take out that little uh bit of glue or whatever stuck on there the paint usually is fine uh underneath and unless the car has been repainted with the badges already on there then you really don't have anything to worry about so yeah this looks a lot cleaner I like the way it looks I don't think I'm going to remove that Mercedes uh this Mercedes badge um right now maybe I'll do it before I do the plasta dip uh it really is not too big of a deal just three screws but uh since I'm done back here I I think the Bondo is just about dry so I'm going to sand that down and then I think we'll call it a day okay it is done well almost so this side is done and uh you can see that I sanded down almost to uh to the metal but all these little rust holes that used to be rust holes are nice and filled in and this is smooth believe it or not um what I'm going to do here is uh actually not much more I'm just going to maybe sand this down a little bit lighter but that might not be necessary because a plasa dip does a really good job at at hiding these crimes as Adam Savage would say but this one uh might need a little bit more work especially cuz uh this is the one I put on a little hastily while this is smooth you can still feel like uh you know little little pin holes uh right here so I will have to do a second coat of Bondo uh as well as up there right on the roof there's a little bit of rust bubbling same as it was over here nothing nothing right home about since I don't think you guys want to see me sand yet again I think you guys saw a lot of sanding today a lot a lot of sanding did I mention I hate sanding um this will probably be it I I think I'm going to call it there we got a lot done so s skirt is done car is debadged um the front bumper is nice and sanded the hood the hood is uh is really good uh there are no scratches to speak of I think in the next episode we can put some color on this bad boy I'm not sure if it's going to be the next episode uh next coming up consecutively or next just in the series because as I said I need to order some parts I don't know when they're going to come in uh I need to kind of sleuth eBay for uh this and uh on the other side uh there's a panel right there and I also have to get some clips and uh just to make sure that everything will fit 100% because the the issue that I'm having is that I don't want to uh leave this out and then later on I have to do another mixture of the plaster dip and that might be a shade off and that's really going to bother me so I'd rather have all the body panels on the car and then I can do the uh the entire plasa dip but I am really really happy with how this turned out and I hope you guys like it too so I'm going to cut it off here uh I hope you guys like this this project I hope you guys like what we did today it was a lot of sanding and uh you can see by my hands they're just covered in in white powder and uh I'm sweating a lot because uh it is hot in my garage and but I do it for you I do it for you guys and I sort of do it for myself because I like doing this and I want you to get the word out there that I like doing this so uh social share subscribe subscribe please um you guys have been really good about that but that number can go up notification Squad you guys are great uh just keep up the good work Twitter is at the real tarish and that is also for Instagram on Facebook it's facebook.com/ askar and you can email me directly at askar gmail.com all that stuff will be in the link in the description below but um until next time this is me tarish telling you to wrench every dayhow's it going guys my name is Taris and today is the final day of Bodywork and prep before we plast to dip my Mercedes-Benz S-class okay well I managed to clean up my garage just a little bit got uh got some of those body panels out of here but here she is the S-Class is almost almost ready this would be the semifinals uh or the finals or I'm not sure what analogy I can come up with but um the last time I left you off this car had a little bit of an issue the hood couldn't come up uh I couldn't open the hood for some reason because well the reason was because I I'm a dummy and uh I closed the hood when I wasn't when I didn't check the mechanism was working properly thankfully the mechanism was working properly but I just forgot to put a spring in there from the old hood and uh basically all I needed to do was have somebody hold the hood up while I while I yanked on the the uh the hood opening mechanism and it opened right up and I put the new spring in there and now it opens up as it should I have everything on the front end pretty much bolted up uh all the the hardware for the bumper and all that that's all connected the headlights are connected everything is ready to go other than this body work so last time you guys saw all these uh nasty and gnarly scratches all over the hood and there's some scratches and and gouges on the uh rest of the car there's also some Rust I think on that side on that door and they actually are some Rust bubbles like up here and up here what we're going to do today is we are going to be sanding out these scratches now I'm not going to be doing a full Bodywork restoration it's just going to be basically uh quick and simple I'm going to be using 150 grit on a dual action da sander and just getting all these nasty scratches especially the ones like this it is uh it's in the clear coat but it's kind of deep like I can feel it with my fingernail so I'm just going to get that out with my da sander um the reason why I'm using 150 grit is because plasa dip unlike paint uh Plasti Dip almost acts like a high Build primer so paint is paint is very thin so unless you apply it unless you apply many many coats paint is going to be thin and whatever imperfection you have whatever Bondo and rough edges and and whatnot that you have that is going to shine through and you'll see that through the paint Plasti Dip is a little bit different Plasti Dip is a rubberized coating and it goes on a lot thicker so the thickness of it is pretty much going to save us we need to do like three base coats then we need to do like three color coats and then maybe even a top coat of like a pearlizer or something and that's going to basically have a self-leveling action uh meaning that any imperfections uh any scratches and whatnot it's going to hide it really really well I'm actually not sure if I even need to sand this but I'm just going to do it just in case especially on stuff like this like the more egregious Parts there I go saying that word again um yeah this is definitely like it's pretty rough and uh that basically this entire hood is just going to need to be sanded back a little bit and also so if we look right here right there that is also a rust bubble so I'm just going to mask this off uh hit it with a wire wheel have some Rust preventative formula and uh then put on a little bit of body filler and this should be good as new and that's going to go for the opposite side the um passenger side door I think the back end is pretty okay I'm not going to be doing small dents um this is a daily driver so I'm there's like tiny dings sort of all over the car and I'm not too worried about those but one thing I sort of have to wait for is stuff like the parking sensors um so anybody that's doing this swap will know that the parking sensors from the 200 uh to 2003 well the facelift versus a non-f facelift the parking sensors are different so so I have to order six new parking sensors and I also have to order for some reason I can't find this part and everybody that's selling it on eBay for just that one part they went like a 100 bucks so I I don't know what to do I need this and also like two uh two of these on the other side apparently this is a pretty rare body kit to have on this car or at least the s55 is is pretty rare to have in the 2003 to 2006 because because um yeah I mean I can't find it anywhere and if I can it's like $100 and I don't know about you I'm not beat for spending $150 or something on what basically amounts to a bunch of plastic so I'm going to try to find those but those might be holding up this project that and the parking sensors um yeah so I might have to wait a little bit on that but until then we can get done with the prep and make this car as ready as it can be for that plasta dip experience so let's get to work Hypno by the sounds Brea in tight Collide hold tight hold tight hold tight dripping light paint the all because of okay that was actually a lot faster than I thought um I knocked back all the scratches and there's a uniform sort of chalkboard appearance which is exactly what I want the uh Plasti Dip should adhere pretty well especially after I give the entire thing a wash with alcohol but I'm going to go a little bit further down and uh I have to sand out some of this primer um that the body shop that I got this bumper from or or rather the body shop that fixed my bumper uh they sort of put a top coat of primer and that primer was like a high Build primer and it just made a really Jagged finish so I'm going to hand sand with 180 grit I'm going to wet sand this entire bumper uh it doesn't actually seem like that big a job it should take me like maybe 10 minutes but uh just so it has a smooth to the touch finish and it's not like you know crater and and crack field but uh this has come along pretty quickly so after I do this then I'm going to be basically done with the front end then we can move further back and uh attack some of those rust spots because I think those are going to be the real trouble areas and after that maybe we'll even do a little bit of a debadging but uh I don't know if we're going to get to that uh hopefully we will but uh for now I'm just going to sand this bumper and uh hopefully make this thing look even better so that took a lot longer than 10 minutes but the bumper is really really smooth and that's what I wanted because this is going to be the thing that attracts the eye uh the most this is going to be the front face of the car and I want it looking on point and uh I do look like uh I'm I'm straight out of a party uh from the 80s but that's not the important bit because the front end is essentially done now I'm not going to be masking off anything in this video because there is still a few there are still a few things left to do mainly um there are little clips that I have to order in order for me to put the grill in and by the way if any of you are willing to do this the grills themselves the three grills they are stupid expensive so these grills are like $200 a piece I have no idea why it's just regular mesh with like a little bit of a of a metal backbone and that's it but they're $200 so make sure that if you buy a bumper it comes with the grills um the only problem with my bumper is that the um there's like little clips that the grills pop into and when the body shop fixed the bumper they did it with fiberglass and they managed to break some of the clips the clips themselves are like five bucks that's no problem but I'm going to have to sort of drill holes into the bumper where the clips used to be and uh put the Clips in and then put the grill in and then uh prep everything like mask everything off and maybe I'll even take off the headlights just to make it that much easier but I am rambling right now because I am going to put put down I'm going to put put down I'm going to put down the car I am going to put the car on the ground and uh turn it around and we are going to start on some of that rust I know this is probably too late to say but uh if you guys are doing something like this in a garage make sure you work in a well ventilated area uh every time I had uh any sort of uh contaminants I always had a window or the garage door open just to crack uh because you want some fresh air coming in because you really don't want the entire uh room filling up with that uh chemical garbage going into your lungs you don't want that all right now that the car has turned around and in the air uh you can see this was the S skirt that we were working on before and uh off camera I just sanded it down it's no big deal sanded it down and put some primer on it and it actually looks pretty clean uh it's not perfect but it's good enough for me there's no uh nasty waves in it it and uh the only issue is like right here I don't know if you can see it it's like a little little pit right there but I'm not too worried about that that's uh basically like a rock chip anywhere else so that's uh that's good enough for me I might put some Putty in there uh before I do a plaster dip but that's that's just a might what we have to do is this so this is the rust spot well there are two one right here and one over here what going to do is uh since I treated this with some Rust um stopper it basically turns the rust uh from a gold color to this black uh brown color which is uh kind of cool it has like a chemical bond with a metal and uh you can see how it how it changes color sort of in real time but what I'm going to do is I sanded this down I cleaned this with with alcohol and I'm just going to put a very light layer of Bondo though on here and I'm going to try to adhere to this uh this body line right here and this is going to be really really light just skim this and then sand it um the key is again very very light coats and a hell of a lot of sanding and the same thing goes for here but it should be pretty easy um it's just that this is a little bit of a little bit Pock marked so this will just smooth it out so let's get to it TI Collide tight here is the sort of product this is the first coat uh I will be sanding this down and the same goes for over here now I did a rookie mistake I put way too much hardener and ended up with a lot more Bondo than I needed did the reason why is because this is a cream hardener see if we can get that this is a cream hardener and I don't know why but mine was very it's basically like water had the viscosity of water and it just dripped out and you're supposed to have basically a golf ball size of Bondo to a PE of hardener and this was let's just say a little bit more than a piece so it hardens super fast I could put one coat on uh on the door on both sides sides but um just for you guys at home um you're going to want to be careful with that hardener but while this is drying let's go around to the back we can do a debadging now I don't know about you but I'm not really a fan of these badges in the back I have no problem with this Mercedes badge that actually makes it look kind of cool uh and it is a little bit of a a brand recognition thing but the S5 00 I'm not impressing anybody I don't really care about that um and actually one of the most popular mods uh from the dealer in Europe is debadging so what I'm going to do is uh kind of go with that tradition and take this badge off this should be super easy uh all I'm going to do is use a heat gun and then uh get some trim removal tools and this should come right off you can actually take this off as well there are screws in the back so I have to open up up the trunk and take off the trunk lining and there are three screws and I think I'm going to end up having to take this off in any case just because uh when I plasta dip it's going to make it a lot easier to peel this off it's going to I don't need any uh any weird lines around here maybe I'll do something interesting with uh with this but uh for now let's get rid of this S500 badge ah I hate it dripping light paint the sky only you and the offending badge is gone uh it took took a little more effort than I thought um which is sort of the theme of my channel took a little more effort than I thought that's going to be the by line of my autobiography but um after I took it off uh took off the initial badge with the heat gun what I had to do was use a lot of U you might use Gan I use uh this thing is called oops and um I don't think this really works all that well but uh with some elbow grease with a lot of elbow grease in fact my elbow is quite greasy uh actually devoid of Grease because I use it all um I managed to make this as smooth as possible and also you can use a little bit of a Polish uh just to take out that little uh bit of glue or whatever stuck on there the paint usually is fine uh underneath and unless the car has been repainted with the badges already on there then you really don't have anything to worry about so yeah this looks a lot cleaner I like the way it looks I don't think I'm going to remove that Mercedes uh this Mercedes badge um right now maybe I'll do it before I do the plasta dip uh it really is not too big of a deal just three screws but uh since I'm done back here I I think the Bondo is just about dry so I'm going to sand that down and then I think we'll call it a day okay it is done well almost so this side is done and uh you can see that I sanded down almost to uh to the metal but all these little rust holes that used to be rust holes are nice and filled in and this is smooth believe it or not um what I'm going to do here is uh actually not much more I'm just going to maybe sand this down a little bit lighter but that might not be necessary because a plasa dip does a really good job at at hiding these crimes as Adam Savage would say but this one uh might need a little bit more work especially cuz uh this is the one I put on a little hastily while this is smooth you can still feel like uh you know little little pin holes uh right here so I will have to do a second coat of Bondo uh as well as up there right on the roof there's a little bit of rust bubbling same as it was over here nothing nothing right home about since I don't think you guys want to see me sand yet again I think you guys saw a lot of sanding today a lot a lot of sanding did I mention I hate sanding um this will probably be it I I think I'm going to call it there we got a lot done so s skirt is done car is debadged um the front bumper is nice and sanded the hood the hood is uh is really good uh there are no scratches to speak of I think in the next episode we can put some color on this bad boy I'm not sure if it's going to be the next episode uh next coming up consecutively or next just in the series because as I said I need to order some parts I don't know when they're going to come in uh I need to kind of sleuth eBay for uh this and uh on the other side uh there's a panel right there and I also have to get some clips and uh just to make sure that everything will fit 100% because the the issue that I'm having is that I don't want to uh leave this out and then later on I have to do another mixture of the plaster dip and that might be a shade off and that's really going to bother me so I'd rather have all the body panels on the car and then I can do the uh the entire plasa dip but I am really really happy with how this turned out and I hope you guys like it too so I'm going to cut it off here uh I hope you guys like this this project I hope you guys like what we did today it was a lot of sanding and uh you can see by my hands they're just covered in in white powder and uh I'm sweating a lot because uh it is hot in my garage and but I do it for you I do it for you guys and I sort of do it for myself because I like doing this and I want you to get the word out there that I like doing this so uh social share subscribe subscribe please um you guys have been really good about that but that number can go up notification Squad you guys are great uh just keep up the good work Twitter is at the real tarish and that is also for Instagram on Facebook it's facebook.com/ askar and you can email me directly at askar gmail.com all that stuff will be in the link in the description below but um until next time this is me tarish telling you to wrench every day\n"