The Alpha Cool Logo Orientation and Port Placement

When building a water cooling system, it's essential to ensure that all components are properly aligned and secured. In this case, we're focusing on the orientation of the alpha cool logo and the placement of ports on the reservoir. The instructor explains that the orientation of the logo is crucial, as it dictates where the ports will be located. This is important because it affects the overall design and functionality of the system.

The instructor demonstrates how to place the ports in the correct location, using the alpha cool logo as a reference point. They explain that once the ports are placed, the rest of the build can proceed with confidence. This attention to detail is essential for creating a well-designed and functional water cooling system.

Pressure Testing

After completing the port placement, the instructor moves on to pressure testing the system. This involves using a pressure tester to ensure that the O-rings and other seals are functioning properly. The instructor explains that pressure testing is crucial for identifying any potential leaks or issues with the system. They show how to attach the pressure tester to the reservoir and pump, and then apply gentle pressure to test the seal.

The instructor notes that the O-rings in the system are designed to be leak-proof, but it's still essential to perform regular pressure testing to ensure that they're functioning correctly. They demonstrate how to check the pressure gauge to ensure that the system is holding pressure, and then release the pressure to avoid over-tightening the screws.

Testing the Pressure Test Results

After completing the pressure test, the instructor checks the results to ensure that the system is functioning as expected. They note that the first reservoir tested held pressure without any issues, but the second reservoir required a top O-ring to be replaced due to a minor leak.

The instructor explains that while the leak was minor, it highlights the importance of double-checking the O-rings during assembly. They show how to replace the top O-ring and reassemble the system, ensuring that all connections are secure and leak-free.

Cleaning Up the Wiring

After completing the pressure test and addressing any issues with the reservoirs, the instructor moves on to cleaning up the wiring. This involves running wires through the cable management ring and securing them in place using cable ties or zip ties.

The instructor notes that proper cable management is essential for creating a clean and organized build. They demonstrate how to run the wires through the ring and secure them in place, ensuring that they're not visible from the outside of the system.

RGB Lighting

Finally, the instructor addresses the RGB lighting on the reservoir. They explain that the RGB lighting was originally intended to be illuminated, but it wasn't possible due to a design issue with the logo orientation.

The instructor notes that they've since found a solution by re-orienting the logo and adjusting the cable management to accommodate the RGB strip. They show how to connect the RGB cable to the motherboard and test the lighting, ensuring that it's functioning correctly and providing a visually appealing effect.

Choosing a Fluid

For the final touch, the instructor discusses choosing a fluid for the system. They decide to go with a clear fluid, citing its aesthetic appeal and ease of maintenance. The instructor notes that clear fluids are often preferred over colored ones because they provide a clean and transparent appearance, making it easier to monitor the system's performance.

Conclusion

In conclusion, this article provides an in-depth look at the process of building a water cooling system, from port placement and pressure testing to cable management and RGB lighting. The instructor highlights the importance of attention to detail and careful planning throughout the build process. By following their tips and advice, readers can create a well-designed and functional water cooling system that meets their needs and provides a visually appealing appearance.

As the instructor notes, building a water cooling system requires patience, attention to detail, and a willingness to troubleshoot any issues that may arise. With the right tools and knowledge, however, it's possible to create a high-performance system that pushes the limits of what's possible with liquid cooling.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enwell that escalated pretty quickly for those looking for a high-end custom gaming experience look no further than Falcon Northwest Falcon Northwest has been building PCS made for gamers for over 30 years with a focus on a true high-end gaming experience custom cases available only through Falcon Northwest feature state-of-the-art testing and design to ensure that every component is performing at their best through thermal imaging and rigorous lab testing designed and overseen by the Falcon Northwest founder himself with a complete lineup of systems ranging from small to large every Falcon Northwest system includes a three-year warranty policy and a year of two-way overnight shipping coverage providing the ultimate peace of mind to see all that Falcon Northwest has to offer follow the sponsored Link in the description below well you know it probably sounds easy to just be like yeah just change the radiators in the blocks um it's not that easy couple reasons one um the fluid I was using it's that milky it's not like truly opaque they call it Mystic fog which you know shines light through it uh and reflects it in there which makes it look really cool the problem is you get this you get res resue resue it's a resue in the reservoir left over as you can see here I've have already taken this one fully apart and deep cleaned it this is like brand new as if it were ever never even used I also made some modifications to it so what I'm going to do today is instead of talking about the rest of this because as you can see I still have the motherboard sitting in there and the GPU block and everything on I'm going to probably change my motherboard even not I have another Maximus formula and I really like that board my problem is it doesn't fit very well in because the 90° plugs hit the sides and I've talked about that I might take that new board that we got for the uh like the reasonably priced tier stuff versus the expensive tier stuff I might take that expensive motherboard and throw it in here why because Skunk Works was always a model for how to waste money in a computer but today what we're going to do is we're going to we're going to deep clean this I'm going to show you the process on fix on on deep cleaning this but I also need to show you a problem that we're having with this and by taking it all apart G is given me an opportunity to address this and address in a design flaw that I don't like so it's got an RGB strip ring around the bottom outside of the this is a glass Reservoir but it's on the outside of the reservoir um that you might have noticed when I was doing my cleaning that uh my cleaning video that it's kind of broken at the moment where you can see only one RGB LED and that strip is lighting up and it's lighting up white ironically both strips were doing that and I thought it was maybe something to do with my connector that was like sending an incorrect signal or something because as you can see both are doing it just one the first LED lighting up white and that's it so the fact that they both are doing it odd but I know for a fact I over um stressed that particular Channel with too many LEDs and who knows what happens I I the low voltage frequency like the five Vol dropping too low could have damaged the controller if it was like sending a signal non-stop but as you can see here this is the strip that was inside here I've replaced it and I've used this guy from Singularity computers now as you can see we've got all of our lighting back so today we're going to go for a ride I'm going to show you how I fixed this because initially I was like dang it I'm just going to replace the whole thing like buy new ones and I'm like no these are like 180 bucks a piece why get over for $320 $340 whatever worth of reservoirs for no reason at all so this although this is the variable speed D5 or VPP or whatever they call it from alpha cool it's not a real D5 it's it's not a lang I just want to point that out however real Lang d5s will fit in here um I thought about changing it out because Lang d5s are a little bit more reliable than these are but I figure I don't have any right now and I also don't have a lot of time I want to get this system back up and running it's now been here for a week anyway I'm just rambling as I'm now taking off the perimeter so what I need to do first is because this is a glass Reservoir it doesn't unscrew from the top or anything what happens is these are screwed into the top and then it's just a post that has screws that come through that clamp the glass tube on both ends with O-rings on both sides but I got to get the pump off first once I do that we'll take the tube off that'll allow us to get some nice cleaning and then I'll show you what's a little bit different about these pumps versus actual laying d5s also to go to a sink or something and make sure you shake out the reservoir real good tipping it over cuz there's going to be water/ fluid sort of Trapped in the impeller and some other parts of areas that are lower than the drain plug or the outlet plug Port so you want to make sure that you don't open this up and then all over your table all right so there's the ring that holds on the pump so you can see right here uh what's different too about this version of a D5 even though they call it a D5 it's not um it's D5 style the impeller is captive in there that's kind of nice because that means it's sliding on a bearing so it means it's actually not going to squeal at me and be super pissed if I turn it on dry this is an actual D5 right here with the silver um so you can see this is like plastic this is steel so I don't I don't know if that matters honestly it's stainless so you can see that's why it hasn't rusted or anything but the impeller is riding on a ceram bearing and it's just magnetically held in there so this one if I were to turn it on it would wobble and then the metal would touch and then it would squeal like mad this does not it's captive with like a little retaining screw right or retaining clip or something impeller wise they're very similar you can see this one has a little bit of more of like a tapered um piece to it don't know if that really matters although the taper is going the opposite direction cuz it goes down through there and then it spins centrific the fluid out the outside that's how it works that's how these work you can see there's like a like a I guess there' be blades in there that as they turn they chop it the the fluid and then collect it from the middle and then spin it outward so as it's spinning fluid's spinning out and then it's going to the port inside of the reservoir that just channels it back to the outlet I just use this blower you can use compressed air too don't spin it like don't spin the the impeller super fast it is still dry there is some play but I want to get any fluid that's down in there out this is what the inside looks like this is just standard D5 channeling I could take that other D5 that you saw and stick it in here and then you might be saying well Jay why aren't you doing that then there's a very important reason for that even though it's a rebranded lang it's got a EK logo on it now that the cap is off I can get to these four screws that are in those posts so it's pretty snug and just got to kind of rock it back and forth this part's scary because it is glass and I don't want to damage it but there we go so look how milky the tube is inside so we'll be cleaning that we'll also be cutting this top piece off on both the return down there and this is the pickup I don't think there's any reason to have this on the pickup because and there's also no reason to have it up high for the pickup we want to pick it up from the bottom we'd like there not to be sediment and stuff just chilling right there yes we also have this filter right here that picks up from the bottom but there's zero reason to have this here but instead of and it's also longer than the return on the top so let me get the other tube out and I'll I'll show you why I'm unhappy with this design and I need to switch it so I'm just rocking it back and forth slowly it's glass you don't want to go fling it out of your hand there we go so there's our tube there's our o-ring make sure that makes its way back in the top there's that and then there's the little guy so what I did was I took my little saw over there and I chopped just right at that Mark cuz there's no reason to have those there I don't like it for the return line the return one that I had it would like squirt out to the side which is what it's designed to do but then you would see like the Disturbed water and I don't like the way that that is so I'm going to clean this up with the exact same tool I use to clean up acrylic tubing so that would be this guy I use the internal feber tool and then the external so so I put the longer one on the top cuz it makes sense to push down farther into the reservoir and you can see I've chopped the both the bottom and the top little deflector pieces off that's going to help flow overall as well also too because I tried to use this one this one was the one that had the fitting on top for filling I couldn't even fill through it because there was enough resistance and surface PR surface tension there that it would not go that gravity could not push it through that hole so then I had to use one of these which were being blocked partially by that fitting that was there so it was really stupid so there is an O-ring down in here don't lose it don't break it dry up some of this coolant here and then I can push this in like that and there's our bad o-ring strip or our RGB strip and I'm going be replacing it with this guy I have extras of these this actually looks like it might be it's almost exactly the right length I think it might just be a it's one LED too long there we go so that one is now ready to go so I'm just using regular water just a little bit of soap tiny bit this piece was actually pretty cloudy I was surprised kind of get the O-rings make sure no O-rings fall out and make sure all the soap is dissolved because you don't want soap in your Loop either you get all bubbly use a paper towel to kind of almost make like a bottle brush cleaner this might all seem really just common sense but it's really not like sometimes people are afraid to take stuff apart I want to with these videos sort of show they're just held together with common screws and stuff like you just need to make sure you have the right bit this one's a combination of of Phillips head and uh Allen key so there's that one nice and clean this will help clean the O-ring because there's two O-rings down in there actually there three O-rings there's one that pushes against the top and then there's two on the side of the reservoir it's like for sure designed to not leak same thing with this this is just a piece of plastic there's no electronics or anything in there as long as you took the RGB strip and the pump out she get down in the ports and stuff so the glass tube be very gentle with especially with this being porcelain there's a reaction that happens with the frequency of porcelain hitting glass tends to break it very easily so just be careful but push the paper towel down in there and just sort of make like a brush I'm cleaning the outside too on both ends where the O-rings touch cuz it tends to get a little bit of a ring there where the O-rings are I'm we just go dry all these parts off and reassemble it so once I dried it off with the paper towel I'm using a uh microfiber I just think twisting while you go up and down is probably the uh nice polishing method if you will I can't take myself serious right now and then if you touch the outside that's fine because you can still wipe that down but you you get fingers prints on the inside and you put it together you to take it apart again and try and clean that out so look how nice and clean that is and fingerprints right there on the outside my favorite thing about glass tubing is the fact that it doesn't stain acrylic would have probably had a little bit of staining or etching or something on it but this glass this is like they just Source these from like Laboratories um or laboratory supplies where they make like beakers and stuff out I think this is Bor silicate to be honest I don't think it's just like tempered glass I think it's Bor silicate glass so it's a very high quality glass it's very thick as you can see so I'm going to do the same thing here I'm going to with a damp paper towel wipe the insides of this and I'll be using my little air blower as you saw to blow water any of that sink water out of this cuz I don't want to contaminate it with any of the minerals that might be in that sink water which we guarantee is in that sink water because of old lead pipes and stuff in the system in the city uh and then we can uh reassemble it fully dry okay so I'm going to go and put the RGB strip in now before I put this o-ring in the bottom so it's pretty simple just push it through they made the hole literally the right size for it pull it all the way through till I get the end in there and then I have to actually put a pretty Fierce like 90° Bend in it which kind of stinks but there is a channel that it fits in so I'm sticking down each RGB LED as it goes around cuz if they stick out at all then the tube won't fit that's how tight the tolerance is in this now before I put the tube or anything in I'm going to go make sure that bend didn't just hurt it in some way so I'm going to go try it I don't if you can see it there's little edges right there that align with little notches in there because this is also a filter for the pickup so it can only go one way like if it went like that that'd be a problem cuz I wouldn't go be going down into the hole there there's a there's a port down in that side right there so that aligns just like that with it then I can take the short one and push it bit back down in there see now I got the short one instead of the long one which makes a lot more sense cuz it's picking up from the bottom okay I'm going to give this o-ring a little wipe this one oops this one goes back in that top right here it's just a little channel that fits in right there just kind of rock it it's fully bottomed out there we go and then we can just put this back on now you got to make sure the orientation is right and the way the orientation goes is the alpha cool logo is towards the front so this is where the ports will be on this side right here so it's going to go like that there and then as soon as we put those screws back on it'll hold the tension put the pump back in tighten it back up and then we're going to pressure test to make sure those O-rings and everything are good that way the reservoir doesn't just start pissing fluid everywhere the moment I turn it on because I didn't do something correctly for the pump installation just run the wires through the ring like that and then make sure that the uh backside is where the CU see how the the wire comes out one side of the circle make sure it's on the same side as the RGB strip which is the back of the reservoir that way it's just nice and clean line up the holes tighten these all up kind of do it in a star pattern kind of like putting a wheel on a car till it's snug remember it is plastic so don't overtighten but it just needs to be snug there's O-rings in there that are doing their job and then uh we'll pressure test next so we'll come back with that okay so I've got the ports plugged and I'm going to screw in my pressure tester here and we just need to get it up to the green which is a little over half a bar and make sure it can hold the pressure okay well that's a good sign I'm good enough I'm I'm happy with that that'll work okay now let's test the other one and it's moving very slowly yeah it moves a little bit cuz I noticed I forgot to put the top o-ring on right here where the top of the glass goes now I could probably be fine by leaving this the only time it would potentially leak is if I tilted the system like flat on its back and fluid was like over the top of the reservoir but I'm not necessarily happy with that look at that the the air started warming up up in there cuz it gets compressed so it created a like steam inside so look at that the see how the Glass isn't all super clear like here's one that's not here's one that is so I'm going to go ahead and take the uh top off and put this o-ring back in the top I found it as I was reassembling the other one and I went well I guess we'll see if it holds air or not it does and then look it all went away once I unpressurized it proof that pressurized air gets hot anyway I don't have to take the pump off of this which is nice because they left me room to be able to get my screws in here so I'm just going to take the top off put the O-ring back in because there's I know it's there it's four screws don't be lazy so it's obvious I forgot to put that O-ring down in thereo there we go do it right I never say I always say do it right but not as I'd say to do but right yeah all right I just retested it after putting the O-ring in it still holds air so nothing's wrong they are so clean that is the best part about glass so anyway there we go kind of another video opportunity for you guys to be like this is why water cooling is so stupid but you know what um I like it that's why I do it believe it or not I'm the kind like I was saying this earlier I said driving a race car is fun I've driven race car once or twice but I'd be I'd rather be the guy building the car like I enjoy this I I do it's a lot of labor but I enjoy it so hopefully you guys enjoy learning some stuff as I take you along for the ride of at this point over ethics changing out an entire brand but it gives me an opportunity to address some things I wasn't happy with on the initial build that I can now deal with now so I'm just happy I was able to fix the RGB cuz it looks so cool with the the reservoir being illuminated now I just got to figure out what I want to do for fluid going to probably go with a clear fluid that way I don't have to deal with this crap again it looks so good the Mystic fog looks so good I need to find if there's another brand that makes Mystic type fluid or whoever it is at EK maybe gets it from all right guys thanks for watching subscribe if you're new around here and uh this like skunk works all over again oh well all at least all the work of drilling the tube holes and all that stuff is already done so there is that and it gives me a chance to really clean up some of this wiring all right I'll see you in the next onewell that escalated pretty quickly for those looking for a high-end custom gaming experience look no further than Falcon Northwest Falcon Northwest has been building PCS made for gamers for over 30 years with a focus on a true high-end gaming experience custom cases available only through Falcon Northwest feature state-of-the-art testing and design to ensure that every component is performing at their best through thermal imaging and rigorous lab testing designed and overseen by the Falcon Northwest founder himself with a complete lineup of systems ranging from small to large every Falcon Northwest system includes a three-year warranty policy and a year of two-way overnight shipping coverage providing the ultimate peace of mind to see all that Falcon Northwest has to offer follow the sponsored Link in the description below well you know it probably sounds easy to just be like yeah just change the radiators in the blocks um it's not that easy couple reasons one um the fluid I was using it's that milky it's not like truly opaque they call it Mystic fog which you know shines light through it uh and reflects it in there which makes it look really cool the problem is you get this you get res resue resue it's a resue in the reservoir left over as you can see here I've have already taken this one fully apart and deep cleaned it this is like brand new as if it were ever never even used I also made some modifications to it so what I'm going to do today is instead of talking about the rest of this because as you can see I still have the motherboard sitting in there and the GPU block and everything on I'm going to probably change my motherboard even not I have another Maximus formula and I really like that board my problem is it doesn't fit very well in because the 90° plugs hit the sides and I've talked about that I might take that new board that we got for the uh like the reasonably priced tier stuff versus the expensive tier stuff I might take that expensive motherboard and throw it in here why because Skunk Works was always a model for how to waste money in a computer but today what we're going to do is we're going to we're going to deep clean this I'm going to show you the process on fix on on deep cleaning this but I also need to show you a problem that we're having with this and by taking it all apart G is given me an opportunity to address this and address in a design flaw that I don't like so it's got an RGB strip ring around the bottom outside of the this is a glass Reservoir but it's on the outside of the reservoir um that you might have noticed when I was doing my cleaning that uh my cleaning video that it's kind of broken at the moment where you can see only one RGB LED and that strip is lighting up and it's lighting up white ironically both strips were doing that and I thought it was maybe something to do with my connector that was like sending an incorrect signal or something because as you can see both are doing it just one the first LED lighting up white and that's it so the fact that they both are doing it odd but I know for a fact I over um stressed that particular Channel with too many LEDs and who knows what happens I I the low voltage frequency like the five Vol dropping too low could have damaged the controller if it was like sending a signal non-stop but as you can see here this is the strip that was inside here I've replaced it and I've used this guy from Singularity computers now as you can see we've got all of our lighting back so today we're going to go for a ride I'm going to show you how I fixed this because initially I was like dang it I'm just going to replace the whole thing like buy new ones and I'm like no these are like 180 bucks a piece why get over for $320 $340 whatever worth of reservoirs for no reason at all so this although this is the variable speed D5 or VPP or whatever they call it from alpha cool it's not a real D5 it's it's not a lang I just want to point that out however real Lang d5s will fit in here um I thought about changing it out because Lang d5s are a little bit more reliable than these are but I figure I don't have any right now and I also don't have a lot of time I want to get this system back up and running it's now been here for a week anyway I'm just rambling as I'm now taking off the perimeter so what I need to do first is because this is a glass Reservoir it doesn't unscrew from the top or anything what happens is these are screwed into the top and then it's just a post that has screws that come through that clamp the glass tube on both ends with O-rings on both sides but I got to get the pump off first once I do that we'll take the tube off that'll allow us to get some nice cleaning and then I'll show you what's a little bit different about these pumps versus actual laying d5s also to go to a sink or something and make sure you shake out the reservoir real good tipping it over cuz there's going to be water/ fluid sort of Trapped in the impeller and some other parts of areas that are lower than the drain plug or the outlet plug Port so you want to make sure that you don't open this up and then all over your table all right so there's the ring that holds on the pump so you can see right here uh what's different too about this version of a D5 even though they call it a D5 it's not um it's D5 style the impeller is captive in there that's kind of nice because that means it's sliding on a bearing so it means it's actually not going to squeal at me and be super pissed if I turn it on dry this is an actual D5 right here with the silver um so you can see this is like plastic this is steel so I don't I don't know if that matters honestly it's stainless so you can see that's why it hasn't rusted or anything but the impeller is riding on a ceram bearing and it's just magnetically held in there so this one if I were to turn it on it would wobble and then the metal would touch and then it would squeal like mad this does not it's captive with like a little retaining screw right or retaining clip or something impeller wise they're very similar you can see this one has a little bit of more of like a tapered um piece to it don't know if that really matters although the taper is going the opposite direction cuz it goes down through there and then it spins centrific the fluid out the outside that's how it works that's how these work you can see there's like a like a I guess there' be blades in there that as they turn they chop it the the fluid and then collect it from the middle and then spin it outward so as it's spinning fluid's spinning out and then it's going to the port inside of the reservoir that just channels it back to the outlet I just use this blower you can use compressed air too don't spin it like don't spin the the impeller super fast it is still dry there is some play but I want to get any fluid that's down in there out this is what the inside looks like this is just standard D5 channeling I could take that other D5 that you saw and stick it in here and then you might be saying well Jay why aren't you doing that then there's a very important reason for that even though it's a rebranded lang it's got a EK logo on it now that the cap is off I can get to these four screws that are in those posts so it's pretty snug and just got to kind of rock it back and forth this part's scary because it is glass and I don't want to damage it but there we go so look how milky the tube is inside so we'll be cleaning that we'll also be cutting this top piece off on both the return down there and this is the pickup I don't think there's any reason to have this on the pickup because and there's also no reason to have it up high for the pickup we want to pick it up from the bottom we'd like there not to be sediment and stuff just chilling right there yes we also have this filter right here that picks up from the bottom but there's zero reason to have this here but instead of and it's also longer than the return on the top so let me get the other tube out and I'll I'll show you why I'm unhappy with this design and I need to switch it so I'm just rocking it back and forth slowly it's glass you don't want to go fling it out of your hand there we go so there's our tube there's our o-ring make sure that makes its way back in the top there's that and then there's the little guy so what I did was I took my little saw over there and I chopped just right at that Mark cuz there's no reason to have those there I don't like it for the return line the return one that I had it would like squirt out to the side which is what it's designed to do but then you would see like the Disturbed water and I don't like the way that that is so I'm going to clean this up with the exact same tool I use to clean up acrylic tubing so that would be this guy I use the internal feber tool and then the external so so I put the longer one on the top cuz it makes sense to push down farther into the reservoir and you can see I've chopped the both the bottom and the top little deflector pieces off that's going to help flow overall as well also too because I tried to use this one this one was the one that had the fitting on top for filling I couldn't even fill through it because there was enough resistance and surface PR surface tension there that it would not go that gravity could not push it through that hole so then I had to use one of these which were being blocked partially by that fitting that was there so it was really stupid so there is an O-ring down in here don't lose it don't break it dry up some of this coolant here and then I can push this in like that and there's our bad o-ring strip or our RGB strip and I'm going be replacing it with this guy I have extras of these this actually looks like it might be it's almost exactly the right length I think it might just be a it's one LED too long there we go so that one is now ready to go so I'm just using regular water just a little bit of soap tiny bit this piece was actually pretty cloudy I was surprised kind of get the O-rings make sure no O-rings fall out and make sure all the soap is dissolved because you don't want soap in your Loop either you get all bubbly use a paper towel to kind of almost make like a bottle brush cleaner this might all seem really just common sense but it's really not like sometimes people are afraid to take stuff apart I want to with these videos sort of show they're just held together with common screws and stuff like you just need to make sure you have the right bit this one's a combination of of Phillips head and uh Allen key so there's that one nice and clean this will help clean the O-ring because there's two O-rings down in there actually there three O-rings there's one that pushes against the top and then there's two on the side of the reservoir it's like for sure designed to not leak same thing with this this is just a piece of plastic there's no electronics or anything in there as long as you took the RGB strip and the pump out she get down in the ports and stuff so the glass tube be very gentle with especially with this being porcelain there's a reaction that happens with the frequency of porcelain hitting glass tends to break it very easily so just be careful but push the paper towel down in there and just sort of make like a brush I'm cleaning the outside too on both ends where the O-rings touch cuz it tends to get a little bit of a ring there where the O-rings are I'm we just go dry all these parts off and reassemble it so once I dried it off with the paper towel I'm using a uh microfiber I just think twisting while you go up and down is probably the uh nice polishing method if you will I can't take myself serious right now and then if you touch the outside that's fine because you can still wipe that down but you you get fingers prints on the inside and you put it together you to take it apart again and try and clean that out so look how nice and clean that is and fingerprints right there on the outside my favorite thing about glass tubing is the fact that it doesn't stain acrylic would have probably had a little bit of staining or etching or something on it but this glass this is like they just Source these from like Laboratories um or laboratory supplies where they make like beakers and stuff out I think this is Bor silicate to be honest I don't think it's just like tempered glass I think it's Bor silicate glass so it's a very high quality glass it's very thick as you can see so I'm going to do the same thing here I'm going to with a damp paper towel wipe the insides of this and I'll be using my little air blower as you saw to blow water any of that sink water out of this cuz I don't want to contaminate it with any of the minerals that might be in that sink water which we guarantee is in that sink water because of old lead pipes and stuff in the system in the city uh and then we can uh reassemble it fully dry okay so I'm going to go and put the RGB strip in now before I put this o-ring in the bottom so it's pretty simple just push it through they made the hole literally the right size for it pull it all the way through till I get the end in there and then I have to actually put a pretty Fierce like 90° Bend in it which kind of stinks but there is a channel that it fits in so I'm sticking down each RGB LED as it goes around cuz if they stick out at all then the tube won't fit that's how tight the tolerance is in this now before I put the tube or anything in I'm going to go make sure that bend didn't just hurt it in some way so I'm going to go try it I don't if you can see it there's little edges right there that align with little notches in there because this is also a filter for the pickup so it can only go one way like if it went like that that'd be a problem cuz I wouldn't go be going down into the hole there there's a there's a port down in that side right there so that aligns just like that with it then I can take the short one and push it bit back down in there see now I got the short one instead of the long one which makes a lot more sense cuz it's picking up from the bottom okay I'm going to give this o-ring a little wipe this one oops this one goes back in that top right here it's just a little channel that fits in right there just kind of rock it it's fully bottomed out there we go and then we can just put this back on now you got to make sure the orientation is right and the way the orientation goes is the alpha cool logo is towards the front so this is where the ports will be on this side right here so it's going to go like that there and then as soon as we put those screws back on it'll hold the tension put the pump back in tighten it back up and then we're going to pressure test to make sure those O-rings and everything are good that way the reservoir doesn't just start pissing fluid everywhere the moment I turn it on because I didn't do something correctly for the pump installation just run the wires through the ring like that and then make sure that the uh backside is where the CU see how the the wire comes out one side of the circle make sure it's on the same side as the RGB strip which is the back of the reservoir that way it's just nice and clean line up the holes tighten these all up kind of do it in a star pattern kind of like putting a wheel on a car till it's snug remember it is plastic so don't overtighten but it just needs to be snug there's O-rings in there that are doing their job and then uh we'll pressure test next so we'll come back with that okay so I've got the ports plugged and I'm going to screw in my pressure tester here and we just need to get it up to the green which is a little over half a bar and make sure it can hold the pressure okay well that's a good sign I'm good enough I'm I'm happy with that that'll work okay now let's test the other one and it's moving very slowly yeah it moves a little bit cuz I noticed I forgot to put the top o-ring on right here where the top of the glass goes now I could probably be fine by leaving this the only time it would potentially leak is if I tilted the system like flat on its back and fluid was like over the top of the reservoir but I'm not necessarily happy with that look at that the the air started warming up up in there cuz it gets compressed so it created a like steam inside so look at that the see how the Glass isn't all super clear like here's one that's not here's one that is so I'm going to go ahead and take the uh top off and put this o-ring back in the top I found it as I was reassembling the other one and I went well I guess we'll see if it holds air or not it does and then look it all went away once I unpressurized it proof that pressurized air gets hot anyway I don't have to take the pump off of this which is nice because they left me room to be able to get my screws in here so I'm just going to take the top off put the O-ring back in because there's I know it's there it's four screws don't be lazy so it's obvious I forgot to put that O-ring down in thereo there we go do it right I never say I always say do it right but not as I'd say to do but right yeah all right I just retested it after putting the O-ring in it still holds air so nothing's wrong they are so clean that is the best part about glass so anyway there we go kind of another video opportunity for you guys to be like this is why water cooling is so stupid but you know what um I like it that's why I do it believe it or not I'm the kind like I was saying this earlier I said driving a race car is fun I've driven race car once or twice but I'd be I'd rather be the guy building the car like I enjoy this I I do it's a lot of labor but I enjoy it so hopefully you guys enjoy learning some stuff as I take you along for the ride of at this point over ethics changing out an entire brand but it gives me an opportunity to address some things I wasn't happy with on the initial build that I can now deal with now so I'm just happy I was able to fix the RGB cuz it looks so cool with the the reservoir being illuminated now I just got to figure out what I want to do for fluid going to probably go with a clear fluid that way I don't have to deal with this crap again it looks so good the Mystic fog looks so good I need to find if there's another brand that makes Mystic type fluid or whoever it is at EK maybe gets it from all right guys thanks for watching subscribe if you're new around here and uh this like skunk works all over again oh well all at least all the work of drilling the tube holes and all that stuff is already done so there is that and it gives me a chance to really clean up some of this wiring all right I'll see you in the next one\n"