**Setting Up the Thinset for a Successful Shower Installation**

When setting up the thinset for your shower installation, it's essential to create a smooth and consistent surface. Start by holding your trowel at a 45-degree angle and scooping up a generous amount of thinset from the bag. Hold the trowel near the floor, allowing the thinset to flow easily onto the surface. As you spread the thinset, make sure it's evenly distributed in one direction. This will help prevent air pockets from forming and ensure that your thinset adheres properly to the surface.

As you work, use a gentle back-and-forth motion with your trowel to spread the thinset. Make sure to keep the edges of the trowel clean and free of debris, as this can affect the quality of the thinset application. By following these steps, you'll be able to create a smooth and consistent surface that will provide a solid foundation for your shower installation.

**Creating a Level Surface**

To ensure that your shower installation is level, it's crucial to create a flat and even surface. Start by mixing the correct amount of thinset according to the manufacturer's instructions. Then, apply the thinset to the floor, working in small sections at a time. Use a level tool to check the surface as you work, making adjustments as needed.

As you spread the thinset, aim for a consistent height of about 1/16 inch. This will provide enough room for the tile and grout without creating a gap that's too large. By keeping the thinset evenly distributed in one direction, you'll be able to achieve a level surface with minimal effort. Remember, it's always better to err on the side of caution when it comes to leveling a surface – if you're within 1/16 inch off-level, it may not be noticeable.

**Applying the Kerb**

Once you've achieved a level surface, it's time to apply the kerb. The kerb is a curved piece of material that fits over the edges of the shower pan, providing support and protecting the surrounding surfaces from water damage. Start by applying a generous bead of joint sealant to the kerb, making sure to fill the area completely.

As you work, use a level tool to ensure that the kerb is properly aligned with the floor. Make any necessary adjustments as you go, using a combination of thinset and grout to secure the kerb in place. By applying the joint sealant evenly and allowing it to set before installing the kerb, you'll be able to create a strong and watertight bond between the two.

**Installing the Kerb on the Curb**

When installing the kerb on the curb, follow similar steps as when working with the kerb on the floor. Apply a generous bead of joint sealant to the back of the kerb, making sure it's evenly distributed and securely attached. Use thinset to hold the kerb in place, starting at the bottom and working your way up.

As you work, make sure the kerb is properly aligned with the curb, using a level tool to check for any deviations from level. By applying the joint sealant and thinset correctly, you'll be able to create a secure and watertight bond between the kerb and the curb.

**Applying Caulk and Installing the Drain Assembly**

Once the kerb is in place, it's time to apply caulk and install the drain assembly. Start by applying a generous bead of caulk to the edges of the shower pan, working from the top down. Use a damp finger or caulk tool to smooth out the caulk, making sure it's evenly distributed and free of air pockets.

Next, install the drain assembly, ensuring that the rubber cocking gasket is properly seated in its slot. The beveled edge of the gasket should face up, while the flat edge faces down. Apply a small amount of silicone sealant to the gasket, making sure it's securely attached to the pipe.

Finally, hand-tighten the cocking nut and secure the assembly in place using the screwdriver provided. By applying caulk and installing the drain assembly correctly, you'll be able to create a watertight seal that will protect your shower from water damage for years to come.

**Final Tips and Reminders**

When working on a shower installation, it's essential to follow these final tips and reminders:

* Always read and follow the manufacturer's instructions when using thinset, joint sealant, and other materials.

* Use a level tool to check for deviations from level, making adjustments as needed.

* Apply caulk in small sections at a time, working from the top down.

* Hand-tighten the cocking nut and secure the drain assembly in place using the screwdriver provided.

* Test the shower after installation to ensure that it's functioning properly.

By following these tips and guidelines, you'll be able to create a successful shower installation that will provide years of reliable service.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enwe teach our systems are a great way to waterproof a shower in our prior video we showed you how to cut down the we defund a primo shower pan today we're going to show you how to install that shower pan and curb and you might be surprised how easy and quickly that can be all right so we're gonna prep the drain now to connect the wedi pan normally when I have the plumbing set either by myself or even a plumber I usually just ask them to have the plumbing run up wild so that when I can cut this at the height that I want to the recommendation is flush the subfloor to 1/8 inch above subfloor in this scenario we're a little bit uneven so I'm gonna be building up a little bit of thin-set on this side of the pan to make it level so I'm gonna want to have this drain piece coming up 1/8 of an inch and the way I'm gonna achieve that I mean the easiest way that I have come up with is these are just like little metal connectors for ductwork you can find this in the ductwork I'll they're just basically how you connect the two pieces of duct work together but they work out well because I'm able to use a little flat blade like this you can use this or your oscillating tool but this is gonna make a little bit of an easier flush cut you kind of really want to have a nice straight square cut on the drain we're gonna put these two pieces on the other side of the drain and this will give me that eighth inch above now you could just cut the pipe and have it glue into the fitting and sit correctly but like I said I think it's a little bit easier just to have the pipe run wild hand and cut it after you have all the subfloor work done legacy it's said this train is now sitting up about 1/8 an inch above the floor this is the lean curb for the weedy fundo primo shower pan and we wanted to show you how it fits into the the rabbit cut of the pan and held those two pieces fit together later on it in this video will show you how to completely waterproof those seams now for this project we're using carob on tea this is an unmodified thinset and you gotta care elastic to it to make it a modified thinset and one big tip we have for you is to properly measure out the amount of care elastic you need with the thin set so you want to you want to mix this as thin as possible or to the maximum amount of latex additive as you can because this is we're going to be setting the pan mature thinset according to the directions we recommend using a hand mixer like this one then apply a thick bead of the wedi joint sealant on the drain opening of the fund of primo and fully compress the drain into that sealant to put the rubber drive rubber washer on first and then this little slip ring so and this too only has to be hand tightened you don't have to get a big wrench on it you just want to use your hands and just get it snug and then you can just smear to rest that caulking inside of there take the locking ring and take this guy out of there and then you can dry fit it once you drive fitted your pan you have the drain assembly in you're ready to go ahead and thin set that into place and the first thing you want to do is just take a wet damp sponge and wipe down your substrate kind of get all the dust off of it and this also helps keep that thin set from you know kind of flashing and immediately drying and having that plywood suck out the moisture of it so always wipe down the plywood before you go ahead and thin set it and what we're going to be using is just a quarter inch by quarter inch launch trial you first want to burn the thinset into the substrate that you mentioned and on this particular shower system we're about just about a quarter inch out of level so this is the high side of the shower so we're kind of drooping down here towards the end so what I'm playing with a quarter inch it's not really that big of a deal but what I'm going to do is I'm gonna feather out a little bit more thin set on this side of the pan so that can level up my pan so always pay attention that I mean I would say if you're like a half-inch or something like that you're gonna have to address this before thin setting it but anything from a quarter to quarter inch and under you can easily make up that difference with the sins then said just you know building a little bit more on this side of the shower right into the substrate by taking the flat side of your trial and just scraping it against and this also helps getting your thinset to spread easier too you want to make sure when you're watching a thin set that it's all nice and consistent be directional trialing keep everything in one direction so on this backhand I'm really kind of pushing against my trowel edges to scrape against the floor I'm definitely a quarter-inch and then where I'm kind of building it up a little bit more I'm just kind of I'm not putting as much pressure I'm just kind of filling in a little bit more so that that little bit of extra floating of thin-set it's going to give me that extra quarter inch of height so I'm not pressing all the way down and apply what is kind of floating it out a little bit okay do that same thing you package your big back butter in first and again you want a back trial this aim it in the same direction that you have on the floor okay and that point you're ready to go ahead and set it in place just stop on it get this to sit down that inset and it just double check just putting a level on your your pan making sure that this is a little bit don't have quite enough thin sit over there so I'm gonna add a little bit more at this edge to make up that quarter-inch there retrial this here okay then just check your level this we basically corrected this entire slope we're probably about a sixteenth know off level and that's really not gonna harm anything I mean if you're within 1/16 you just want to make sure when you put your level on here that everything's sloping towards the drain like 1/16 you're never gonna be able to see that the only thing you're gonna have to do is maybe possibly scribe cut your tile a little bit to the the shower floor tile so when just think ahead on that knowing that this is might be a sixteenth off of level all the way around I mean obviously try to achieve level but you know if you're within a 16 to 8 that's usually good enough then you can just correct it with your tile work so the next step is to go ahead and install your your kerb to get some of your joint sealant and put a real generous bead in this date on this front dado now we're gonna actually do that the same way on the on the curb itself so you want to have this really fill this area with it and then go on the face plate cuz you're going to want to bond that kerb to this as well so on the side of the pan as well fill that with going to it the same thing here I'm gonna just put one bead here I'm not gonna fill this whole thing but I just want to make sure that I get that corner really well okay headed from there I'm gonna thin set the bottom of this so applying some thin set to the bottom of your your curve set this in place so that's what you want to see you want to see this this ceiling kind of oozing out of that corner like that at this point it's not a bad idea to make sure that this is sitting level as well and just for now I'm just gonna wipe this corner out we're gonna go back over it once we get all the rest of the wall panel ups but I want to make sure I smooth this out doesn't interfere with my additional caulking I'll be putting their end obviously I need the towel work and at this point we could go ahead and put the drain assembly together this is super important the rubber cocking gasket that Steve is pointing to here has a beveled edge to it that beveled edge should face up and the flat edge face down and you want this rubber caulking gasket to be flush with the top of the pipe or just a little bit sub flush to it and then you have this cocking nut it's a plastic cocking that it just goes down over top of the rubber cocking gasket and cinches it in place you want to hand tighten it first and then we tee provides a metal tab that fits into the slots of the cocking nut and you just use a screwdriver to secure the cocking that over top of the rubber cocking gas and that is how you create a watertight seal for the wedi fundo primo shower pan those are super important tips to remember when you do this installation you can buy the we defund oprima shower system over on bathroom repair tutor comm we also have great courses over there for you if you're doing a bathroom remodel if you need help choosing the right shower pan system please don't hesitate to reach out to us and if you missed our prior video you can watch that right now thanks for watching today's video and we'll see in the next onewe teach our systems are a great way to waterproof a shower in our prior video we showed you how to cut down the we defund a primo shower pan today we're going to show you how to install that shower pan and curb and you might be surprised how easy and quickly that can be all right so we're gonna prep the drain now to connect the wedi pan normally when I have the plumbing set either by myself or even a plumber I usually just ask them to have the plumbing run up wild so that when I can cut this at the height that I want to the recommendation is flush the subfloor to 1/8 inch above subfloor in this scenario we're a little bit uneven so I'm gonna be building up a little bit of thin-set on this side of the pan to make it level so I'm gonna want to have this drain piece coming up 1/8 of an inch and the way I'm gonna achieve that I mean the easiest way that I have come up with is these are just like little metal connectors for ductwork you can find this in the ductwork I'll they're just basically how you connect the two pieces of duct work together but they work out well because I'm able to use a little flat blade like this you can use this or your oscillating tool but this is gonna make a little bit of an easier flush cut you kind of really want to have a nice straight square cut on the drain we're gonna put these two pieces on the other side of the drain and this will give me that eighth inch above now you could just cut the pipe and have it glue into the fitting and sit correctly but like I said I think it's a little bit easier just to have the pipe run wild hand and cut it after you have all the subfloor work done legacy it's said this train is now sitting up about 1/8 an inch above the floor this is the lean curb for the weedy fundo primo shower pan and we wanted to show you how it fits into the the rabbit cut of the pan and held those two pieces fit together later on it in this video will show you how to completely waterproof those seams now for this project we're using carob on tea this is an unmodified thinset and you gotta care elastic to it to make it a modified thinset and one big tip we have for you is to properly measure out the amount of care elastic you need with the thin set so you want to you want to mix this as thin as possible or to the maximum amount of latex additive as you can because this is we're going to be setting the pan mature thinset according to the directions we recommend using a hand mixer like this one then apply a thick bead of the wedi joint sealant on the drain opening of the fund of primo and fully compress the drain into that sealant to put the rubber drive rubber washer on first and then this little slip ring so and this too only has to be hand tightened you don't have to get a big wrench on it you just want to use your hands and just get it snug and then you can just smear to rest that caulking inside of there take the locking ring and take this guy out of there and then you can dry fit it once you drive fitted your pan you have the drain assembly in you're ready to go ahead and thin set that into place and the first thing you want to do is just take a wet damp sponge and wipe down your substrate kind of get all the dust off of it and this also helps keep that thin set from you know kind of flashing and immediately drying and having that plywood suck out the moisture of it so always wipe down the plywood before you go ahead and thin set it and what we're going to be using is just a quarter inch by quarter inch launch trial you first want to burn the thinset into the substrate that you mentioned and on this particular shower system we're about just about a quarter inch out of level so this is the high side of the shower so we're kind of drooping down here towards the end so what I'm playing with a quarter inch it's not really that big of a deal but what I'm going to do is I'm gonna feather out a little bit more thin set on this side of the pan so that can level up my pan so always pay attention that I mean I would say if you're like a half-inch or something like that you're gonna have to address this before thin setting it but anything from a quarter to quarter inch and under you can easily make up that difference with the sins then said just you know building a little bit more on this side of the shower right into the substrate by taking the flat side of your trial and just scraping it against and this also helps getting your thinset to spread easier too you want to make sure when you're watching a thin set that it's all nice and consistent be directional trialing keep everything in one direction so on this backhand I'm really kind of pushing against my trowel edges to scrape against the floor I'm definitely a quarter-inch and then where I'm kind of building it up a little bit more I'm just kind of I'm not putting as much pressure I'm just kind of filling in a little bit more so that that little bit of extra floating of thin-set it's going to give me that extra quarter inch of height so I'm not pressing all the way down and apply what is kind of floating it out a little bit okay do that same thing you package your big back butter in first and again you want a back trial this aim it in the same direction that you have on the floor okay and that point you're ready to go ahead and set it in place just stop on it get this to sit down that inset and it just double check just putting a level on your your pan making sure that this is a little bit don't have quite enough thin sit over there so I'm gonna add a little bit more at this edge to make up that quarter-inch there retrial this here okay then just check your level this we basically corrected this entire slope we're probably about a sixteenth know off level and that's really not gonna harm anything I mean if you're within 1/16 you just want to make sure when you put your level on here that everything's sloping towards the drain like 1/16 you're never gonna be able to see that the only thing you're gonna have to do is maybe possibly scribe cut your tile a little bit to the the shower floor tile so when just think ahead on that knowing that this is might be a sixteenth off of level all the way around I mean obviously try to achieve level but you know if you're within a 16 to 8 that's usually good enough then you can just correct it with your tile work so the next step is to go ahead and install your your kerb to get some of your joint sealant and put a real generous bead in this date on this front dado now we're gonna actually do that the same way on the on the curb itself so you want to have this really fill this area with it and then go on the face plate cuz you're going to want to bond that kerb to this as well so on the side of the pan as well fill that with going to it the same thing here I'm gonna just put one bead here I'm not gonna fill this whole thing but I just want to make sure that I get that corner really well okay headed from there I'm gonna thin set the bottom of this so applying some thin set to the bottom of your your curve set this in place so that's what you want to see you want to see this this ceiling kind of oozing out of that corner like that at this point it's not a bad idea to make sure that this is sitting level as well and just for now I'm just gonna wipe this corner out we're gonna go back over it once we get all the rest of the wall panel ups but I want to make sure I smooth this out doesn't interfere with my additional caulking I'll be putting their end obviously I need the towel work and at this point we could go ahead and put the drain assembly together this is super important the rubber cocking gasket that Steve is pointing to here has a beveled edge to it that beveled edge should face up and the flat edge face down and you want this rubber caulking gasket to be flush with the top of the pipe or just a little bit sub flush to it and then you have this cocking nut it's a plastic cocking that it just goes down over top of the rubber cocking gasket and cinches it in place you want to hand tighten it first and then we tee provides a metal tab that fits into the slots of the cocking nut and you just use a screwdriver to secure the cocking that over top of the rubber cocking gas and that is how you create a watertight seal for the wedi fundo primo shower pan those are super important tips to remember when you do this installation you can buy the we defund oprima shower system over on bathroom repair tutor comm we also have great courses over there for you if you're doing a bathroom remodel if you need help choosing the right shower pan system please don't hesitate to reach out to us and if you missed our prior video you can watch that right now thanks for watching today's video and we'll see in the next one\n"