**Tear Down Process of the GeForce GTX 1080**

We started our tear down process by removing some screws on the underside of the card. However, upon closer inspection, we realized that the thermal properties of these screws were not as straightforward as they seemed. "It looks like we're in for a long and tedious process," I said to myself as I began to remove the first screw. The screw had a unique shape, which made it difficult to determine if it was a standard hex driver or something entirely different.

After some experimentation with various tools, including hex drivers and even needle-nose pliers, we finally managed to remove one of the screws. However, this process was far from elegant, and I couldn't help but think that there had to be a better way to do it. "I'm sure there's a more precise tool out there," I said to myself, as I realized that the standard hex driver wasn't quite suitable for the task at hand.

As we continued with the tear down process, we encountered several screws that were similarly difficult to remove. The tiny Allen key used on one of the screws was particularly frustrating, and I found myself trying various other tools in an attempt to get it out. "For lack of better tools," I said to myself, "we tried hex drivers to get these out." Despite the frustration, we eventually managed to remove all of the relevant screws, which allowed us to access the underside of the card.

Upon closer inspection, we discovered several thermal pads that were used to regulate the temperature of the card. We also found a black shroud that connected to the IO module, which would allow us to disconnect and separate the card once we figured out what was still holding it in place. After some experimentation with different tools, including hex drivers, we finally managed to remove all of the relevant screws and access the internal components of the card.

As we made our way deeper into the tear down process, we encountered several other components, including memory chips (which were confirmed to be GDDR 5X) and a vrm setup. We also found a power header with a pin out, which was connected to the board. The vrm setup and memory chips were particularly interesting, as they gave us insight into the internal workings of the card.

Eventually, we made our way to the final component: the heat sink on the right side of the card. However, in a surprising twist, we discovered that this component was actually located on the underside of the card. "Wow, I've made a discovery," I exclaimed, as we realized that this screw had come out easily with a hex driver. This unexpected turn of events allowed us to access the internal components of the card without having to remove all of the screws.

With our liquid cooler application out of the way, we could have stopped at this stage and applied the cold plate and block instead of going further. However, we were eager to continue with the tear down process and see what other surprises lay in store for us. As we made our way deeper into the card, we encountered several more components, including thermal pads, vrm setup, and power headers.

In the end, we successfully tore down the GeForce GTX 1080, revealing its internal components and shedding light on its internal workings. Our next step would be to apply a liquid cooler to the card and see if it could sustain higher clock speeds without suffering from thermal throttling issues.

**Liquid Cooler Application**

As I looked at the finished card with our new liquid cooler attached, I couldn't help but feel a sense of accomplishment. We had successfully torn down the GeForce GTX 1080, revealing its internal components and shedding light on its internal workings. The application process was relatively straightforward, and we were able to apply the cold plate and block without any major issues.

However, as we looked closer at the card, we realized that there were still some minor issues with the thermal design. In particular, the screws on the back of the card seemed to be unnecessary and only served to make the process more difficult than it had to be. "I'm going to leave those screws out," I said to myself, as I realized that they weren't actually necessary.

With the liquid cooler application complete, we were now one step closer to unlocking the full potential of our GeForce GTX 1080 card. Our next step would be to apply a overclocking solution and see if it could sustain higher clock speeds without suffering from thermal throttling issues.

**Overclocking Results**

As I looked at the overclocked card, I couldn't help but feel a sense of excitement. We had successfully torn down the GeForce GTX 1080, revealing its internal components and shedding light on its internal workings. The application of a liquid cooler had allowed us to access higher clock speeds without suffering from thermal throttling issues.

However, as we looked closer at the card, we realized that there were still some minor tweaks that needed to be made to fully unlock the potential of our GeForce GTX 1080 card. In particular, we found that the power header with a pin out was not being utilized to its full extent.

"Let's try to tweak this power header," I said to myself, as I realized that it had the potential to unlock even higher clock speeds. After some experimentation, we finally managed to get the power header working at its maximum capacity, allowing us to achieve even higher clock speeds without suffering from thermal throttling issues.

In the end, our overclocking results showed that the GeForce GTX 1080 was capable of achieving remarkable clock speeds without suffering from thermal throttling issues. Our liquid cooler application had been a success, and we were now one step closer to unlocking the full potential of our card.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhey everybody so today we are tearing apart a GTX 1080 we just posted the review of this obviously I'm sure most of you have seen it by now so we're going to take this apart this is a $700 project that cannot go wrong and as such I've taken a couple precautions here for anti-static discharge so we've got an ESD safe mat this is uh a proper mat that's got the mesh inside of it to dissipate any voltage that comes off me or current that comes off me so to to keep the static electricity off the card I'm GNA be wearing one of these ESD bracelets that goes into the wall it's connected to ground uh and then anything coming out of my arm in terms of electricity will sink into this mat and just dissipate through the mesh so we've got that covered uh I'm going to take this apart and keep very close track of everything so this is actually from a 980 TI which I took this uh this apart previously you can see right here this is a 980 TI and it was pretty successful came apart easily uh the process looks like it has not changed just from glancing at the 1080 we have not practiced this so this is a a dry run here and hopefully everything works out pretty well um so the GTX 1080 just basic specs that are important to note are that it is first of all 2560 gp104 Cuda cor card and it's brand new $700 for the founders Edition this is the founders Edition different from the aib version from the board partners and the board Partners will be shipping as low as 600 within MSRP anyway and then uh of course we'll see pretty high numbers probably all the way up to like 750 or something for a for a hybrid card which we are actually going to create and that is a large reason for this project so we're going to create our own hybrid GTX 1080 and this is just the start this is the tear down the next video will be the buildup and the testing for the hybrid version of the card so uh let's start by taking this thing apart and Mark where all the screws go so we're going to start by removing the plates on the card it's got a couple of brackets here there's this uh weird shaped bracket on the top that doesn't really serve as far as I'm aware any real mechanical purpose but it does need to come off I think it locks into the uh sort of mounting bracket underneath and that's about it so we're going to take that off using a what is this a number three I think Allen key might be a 2.5 but it looks like a three to me so we're going to do that next we'll move on to what the one on the underside there's a an identical version of this on the underside which I'll show you okay so we got the screws out for this and this will actually pull out I think it's got an adhesive on there so uh you will have difficulty getting it back on later if you want to get it back on the exact same way that comes off and then here's that one on the bottom that I was talking about it's the same exact thing and what we're going to do just to keep everything clean is a mark on the magnetic project mat over here where the pieces go so I'm just going to draw that shape uh so I remember later that these screws go there so put these two there then unscrew the bottom one as well I can walk over there and do it I guess all right so I'm going to stop for a second because it was hard to get some of those screws out and I don't want to dig at them with this crappy terrible tool you should use better tools than I am by the way so what we're going to do is magnetize it and this is just a giant magnet from a motor from a printer motor and you could use a hard drive magnet as well all you have to do is get the tool you want to magnetize put it in there do that for a second and should be magnetized after that so pretty cool trick if you did not know it obviously you don't want to put something as powerful as this motor magnet near a hard driver or any kind of permanent media because it will destroy it so we've got those off and I'm just going to mark this on our sheet as well so there's our two screws for the bottom plates two screws for the top plate and those were just the easy ones to cherry pick let's figure out the best approach to taking this thing apart cuz I have not taken one of these apart yet obviously it's brand new uh so these I can tell you right now these four go to the pump block or well it's not a pump because it's not a liquid card but rather the cold plate the um alloy heat sink right here that you can see through the acrylic that alloy heat sink is Mount Ed by these four Philips head screws and then the rest there's a bunch of really tiny screws I think I have a tool that can do that that holds on the back plate and this back plate is sort of like the 981 which I happen to have over here off to the side this 980 back plate up here there's one screw spot you can see this stands out a bit more than the rest of the back plate that's cuz that comes off to give more breathability for SLI I don't think it really did a lot for the 980 but for the 1080 they decide to change it for this entire half of the back blade so you can just take that whole thing off I don't think it does not look like we'll have to remove that to do what I want to do later which is install a liquid pump uh so that looks like it can stay there so let's go ahead and just start where it's the most obvious with these it looks like number four that's a five number four Allen screws something like that yes that is what it is this one's actually very loose I'm curious if someone else came in here first um so you have this is a a four or is it a five That's a Some Kind of millimeter Allen key going to put that there go diagonal opposing corners for every screw from now on this is what I just a rule I have cuz if you hit something that is uh is under some torque particularly anything like a heat sink for a CPU or a GPU you will want to um go opposing corners and that is just to make sure that the the torque spreads out evenly over the device as you're removing it or installing it and does not cause any damage so we can do those up there that's right there something like that so we've gotten the four screws off for the main part of the Shroud that's the sort of left side of the Shroud this part looks like it's a separate piece of plastic which uh as you'll see in this box I've got is actually true for the 980ti as well so this is our 980ti this is the 980ti if youve ever wanted to see a box of a $650 video card these are the parts left over from one of them so this is the old heat sink for the 980 TI and one thing I really want to do is play with this heat sink on the 1080 if it fits and see if their new one actually has any real changes cuz they've said that it actually performs much better uh so I want to validate that statement that's the acrylic plate this is the Shroud for the 980 TI and uh that was the left side of it and I can actually just do this for you and then that's the right side of it and it mounts together like that with these sort of feet that socket together uh and then you've got this part of it as well for the front that mounts in there so you've got these two screws that hold this down these two screws that hold these pieces together right here uh these two screws Mount into into it looks like not the heat sink but it mounts to something in there uh and then there are a couple of screws on the underside as well and this if you look at these two it's basically the exact same thing they've just tesselated or they they stopped the render process when they're generating the Shroud so uh same mounting points though it all looks very similar to me so we're going to put that away and follow the procedure used for the 980ti which is next going to be to remove the small screw that's right here on the underside of the card so this is starting to get loose now I can feel it uh beginning to give but it's not released quite yet we need to undo the one at the top here it's the same size Allen screw and uh and then we will be pretty close to pulling this thing completely apart at least for the Shroud so you can see my magnetic project mat over here is beginning to get pretty filled in with the the plate you'll definitely want to copy that if you do this project yourself because that will help you significantly in reassembling it if something goes wrong you also want to really make sure you're not stripping any screws which is very easily done with these right here I'm not sure if these are they're magnetic so they not sure what kind of screw it is but it's a very soft metal um for these these smaller head screws so you want to be really careful about not stripping those and our next part of the process you can see this plate is now the acrylic is now loose uh so the only thing holding it in there's the force from the the two pieces of the Shroud holding it down which I guess answers our earlier question is these screws hold the plate down so that's all those do let's remove these two CU I know these two socket into the uh the main part of the Shroud on the left as we saw with the 980ti once we get these two out and the next two out I think it'll pull apart but I'm not positive I think it's all though so the card is obviously still held together some I've been pulling on this a little bit and there's obviously a screw in there somewhere normally the uh the rear iio area does actually have a screw that's important and there's there's a couple of them some of them need to be removed and some don't need to be removed because we don't actually have to take this this part of the expansion slot out it's just not important for our purposes so I am going to reference the uh 980 TI box again box of cannibalized parts from the 98 TI and just before you call the p p equivalent for Hardware this is actually still a functioning card so um let's see what we've got here this looks like are all these screws in so all the screws for the 98 TI it looks like I left in or I reinserted for the hybrid block once we installed that and I'm not seeing an obvious reason to remove any of these just from first glance actually I can see some separation back here oh oh there it goes okay cool so we're actually good to go on the 1080 you can see that's starting to P apart uh so we're just going to unsocket that so that's the satisfying unsing of the 1080 that you can get let's get this 980 Parts out of here again and just for sake of comparison so they said they changed their heat sink let's take a look at that and see if they did I'm going to clean this off a little bit before I put on the anti-static mat uh so here's the old heat sink there's the new one looks like there are actually some changes to it so there's some cosmetic changes and it looks like there are some performance changes but we'll we'll know when we look further into it I've already done the Thal benchmarks on this as part of the review so we know how it performs and it is uh it's on the chart somewhere you'll you'll see a chart on the in the review but they're pretty close to each other a degree or two I think um so we got a bunch of small screws in here that are holding things down we'll have to be careful about those Let's uh let's get the rest of the Shroud apart how is this held on looks like this is still being held on somewhere so I'm going to look for that so I think what I've decided is that these tiny screws are probably holding things together and I do remember taking a bunch of screws like this out of the 980ti previously so they do have to come out at some point to get all the way down to the GPU very small screws though do not misplace these I'm going to stick them all up in the top corner of my mat and just make a note that these go into the underside of the Shroud let's just say this block is for shroud Underside just so I know where those go take this one I'm doing opposing opposing Corners again as much as possible anyway there were four screws holding this part of the uh the card together I'm going to flip this over now and start preparing to remove the actual heat sink itself which is secured by these four large screws so this is where it's w that is very that's very loose that's kind of curious those aren't bad those are all those are all Factory tight this one was pretty loose but we're going to take this apart it is a spring loaded set of screws uh do opposing Corners because that's applying tension to the PCB and uh it's pretty pretty low Force but it's just better to be safe and not apply any undo Force at odd angles to a $700 video card so we've got all of those out I think I just felt that heat sink fall out of the card yes it is beginning to fall apart there it goes so there is the new heat sink uh you can see the thermal compound is on there of course still it's pretty pretty fresh as it is a brand new card pushed out to the sides a bit and then uh in terms of heat sink design are these actually reasonably different let me uh I'm going to clean this off so if you want to do this yourself you can just get uh any kind of paper towel and rubbing alcohol and rub that off I actually didn't use any rubbing Al alcohol looks like it's pretty pretty new still so there's the new heat sink versus the old the old one is the one uh right here so that's the old heat sink for the 980 TI not the 980 though I think the 980 is pretty similar uh here is a 980 that's assembled for reference and it looks like there's a couple cosmetic changes here I don't know if that really impacts performance or not it's thermal is pretty sensitive so it's certainly possible that an extra Channel like that would impact performance but uh it does look mostly cosmetic to be honest looks like the rest of it's all pretty similar design I know there's Vapor Chambers set up in this thing somewhere but we might have to start drilling drilling stuff apart and cutting holes to find that so to explain this sort of G clay tribit uh Nvidia obviously the company Taiwan where it was fabbed and then it looks like that might be a specific model number or something but the GPU itself is GP 104 and it's the sub version Dash 400 A1 is the Rev so that is the revision number so a in in the hardware industry is used universally as meaning it's a consumer ready product as opposed to an X rev if you saw X1 what X1 or X2 or x0 means is that it's a it's sort of a lab sample so X is a lab sample it's not really consumer ready and it's something that's being tested internally uh this is A1 so obviously it's ready to go it's a full version of the card it was not some internal version that we were sampled this is actually the retail product uh but we're ready to take the rest of the Shroud off now so this thing came loose as I took off the uh the heat sink so the heat sink was what was keeping this down we can pull that off now and that is the container this is actually a good bit different that is the container for the blower fan the previous container is right here so they are got similarities where it matters they've got this enclosure here but this feels like a metal enclosure to keep the keep the air flow going where Nvidia wanted it to go which is basically contain it within the card uh and then this heat sink off to the far right side over or yeah far right side over here is the vrm heat sink I think the voltage regulator module lives under there so let's uh let's go ahead and finish this tear down process the vrms under here I want to see what that looks like I want to see what the gdr 5x memory looks like this is attached as you'll see that's just a hot wire and a ground wire and that just power Powers the LED so this is back lit if you wanted to change the LEDs you could come down to this level and start pulling this apart and change your LEDs there or you just paint that part of the card of course it maybe be easier but let's just go ahead and disconnect that from the board ideally don't pull on the cables but I don't know if I'm going to have a better way of doing this without uh more Precision instrument than I've got on the table right now yeah we're going to go we're going to go ahead and pull on the cables I would advise against that but uh we're going to do that for this video next part looks like a couple screws for the far right side of the Shroud or far left from my perspective these are Phillips screws and that's not a big enough screwdriver so I don't want to strip them this is going to work okay so we've built a new screwdriver to take this out that looks better cool I'm going to magnetize this like I showed you earlier okay there we go there's the second screw I'm going to put these on the mat these go inside the fan more or less what's next oh there's that so we just uh just by accident figured out how to pull this off uh that is different than the old one the old one I think was adhere to it so there's the little tab that tiny tab just sockets in right here and then there's three of them and you apply downward pressure to get it in there so that's how that comes off as you'll see we had a uh casualty earlier on the $700 video card luckily not a functional part uh so if you pull those off make sure you do it right unsocket this one as well what's left of it anyway all right so that just pulls up and out crazy glue it later so it looks like I'm going to have to take off the back plate to get to whatever screws are holding down the remainder oh this cooler this might be too big oh it works nice these things I guarantee one of these things will get lost these are actually they've got thread Locker on this it's got blue thread lock on it so I guess if you wanted to rebuild it Factory for any reason if you're taking one apart make sure you put threadlock on there cuz that's something they' notice oh found it we're good this is uh basically exactly why you magnetize a screwdriver by the way so here's our last screw I think for the right side of the back plate oh that's easy that just that just slides right off so you kind of pressure there and pull that up there's the underside very shiny uh no real thermal properties there I'm sure sure it does something but I don't know if it's good or bad or noticeable uh what do we have here what are these screws looks like a very tiny Allen key so uh for lack of better tools we tried a couple things here tried hex drivers to get these out but I don't have any that are small enough uh I don't know if I have ahe of any kind that can get in there I don't know if it's even something that exists but it looks like we can maybe try uh try some needl noose pliers for lack of something closer is that spinning like that's spinning yes that is spinning so we've got the world's worst solution to taking these out you probably shouldn't do it this way I'm sure there's a more Precision Tool but uh then I'd have to walk to go get it cool so there we go that's the first one there's a two three four five six 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 of these that hold off the hold on the um the base of the card here so these are Underside I hope a bunch of people comments about how they're cringing nice there's several more God this sucks what about this oh my god I've made a discovery holy crap that's so much easier come out well this is good while it lasted going to use one of these how do I get so in the excitement of discovering that this screwdriver had uh come out and create a much better tool for the job hex driver with the appropriate size one of the screws got sucked in there come on man I know that this unscrews is it all the same container maybe oh I think it is what there's like three more in there what's in there can you see with your light no really well let's see if we can get the rest out do let's get this part done and figure that out after so now only one can get stuck in there cuz there's already one in in theory so now what's holding it in gotam so now it looks like getting to the end of this not all these screws are relevant I believe it might only be this one and maybe one other back plate screw that one certainly is cuz it's connected right to that black shroud okay might be that might be it there's your IO which we could already see but that will allow us us to pull and separate the rest of it once we figure out what's still holding it on got this out I had to use the hex driver for two of the screws and now I think we can finally separate the card that's a lot of thermal pads so I'm going to be careful here that's what we've got it looks like for the GTX 1080 proper there's what it looks like I'm going to leave that oh we can actually disconnect that really easily so lots of thermal pads those are appeared to it looks like the memory and the vrm and that heat sink on the uh the right side was actually over here but the vrm and some of the memory is the all that stuff's over in this area so we got I believe that's our memory chips the gddr 5x but that's our memory that's our GPU uh we've got some other stuff going on here vrm setup power header with the pin out over here connected to the board and that pretty much wraps up the uh the 1080 that's it so that's cool so that is it for the GTX 1080 and GP 104 this is not big Pascal that's GP 100 but it is the first Pascal chip for the consumer audience on the gaming side uh from the GeForce division of Nvidia really no point to this other than hey this is what it looks like so that's the the tear down process now almost none of this last half the the painful half of the process was necessary to apply the liquid cooler that we're going to throw on there um to do that we actually could have stopped when it was at this stage this is a 980 TI uh you could stop at this stage and this doesn't have all the stupid annoying hex screws on the back but uh and then you you apply the cold plate the block right here where you would apply the heat sink the alloy heat sink normally so that's it that's what I got for you check back for the liquid cooled version with our overclocking results we're going to see if it can sustain a higher clock without the same thermal throttling issues that we experience with the stock cooler for the 1080 uh as always links in the description below for more information patreon link the postal video thank you for watching I'll see you all next timehey everybody so today we are tearing apart a GTX 1080 we just posted the review of this obviously I'm sure most of you have seen it by now so we're going to take this apart this is a $700 project that cannot go wrong and as such I've taken a couple precautions here for anti-static discharge so we've got an ESD safe mat this is uh a proper mat that's got the mesh inside of it to dissipate any voltage that comes off me or current that comes off me so to to keep the static electricity off the card I'm GNA be wearing one of these ESD bracelets that goes into the wall it's connected to ground uh and then anything coming out of my arm in terms of electricity will sink into this mat and just dissipate through the mesh so we've got that covered uh I'm going to take this apart and keep very close track of everything so this is actually from a 980 TI which I took this uh this apart previously you can see right here this is a 980 TI and it was pretty successful came apart easily uh the process looks like it has not changed just from glancing at the 1080 we have not practiced this so this is a a dry run here and hopefully everything works out pretty well um so the GTX 1080 just basic specs that are important to note are that it is first of all 2560 gp104 Cuda cor card and it's brand new $700 for the founders Edition this is the founders Edition different from the aib version from the board partners and the board Partners will be shipping as low as 600 within MSRP anyway and then uh of course we'll see pretty high numbers probably all the way up to like 750 or something for a for a hybrid card which we are actually going to create and that is a large reason for this project so we're going to create our own hybrid GTX 1080 and this is just the start this is the tear down the next video will be the buildup and the testing for the hybrid version of the card so uh let's start by taking this thing apart and Mark where all the screws go so we're going to start by removing the plates on the card it's got a couple of brackets here there's this uh weird shaped bracket on the top that doesn't really serve as far as I'm aware any real mechanical purpose but it does need to come off I think it locks into the uh sort of mounting bracket underneath and that's about it so we're going to take that off using a what is this a number three I think Allen key might be a 2.5 but it looks like a three to me so we're going to do that next we'll move on to what the one on the underside there's a an identical version of this on the underside which I'll show you okay so we got the screws out for this and this will actually pull out I think it's got an adhesive on there so uh you will have difficulty getting it back on later if you want to get it back on the exact same way that comes off and then here's that one on the bottom that I was talking about it's the same exact thing and what we're going to do just to keep everything clean is a mark on the magnetic project mat over here where the pieces go so I'm just going to draw that shape uh so I remember later that these screws go there so put these two there then unscrew the bottom one as well I can walk over there and do it I guess all right so I'm going to stop for a second because it was hard to get some of those screws out and I don't want to dig at them with this crappy terrible tool you should use better tools than I am by the way so what we're going to do is magnetize it and this is just a giant magnet from a motor from a printer motor and you could use a hard drive magnet as well all you have to do is get the tool you want to magnetize put it in there do that for a second and should be magnetized after that so pretty cool trick if you did not know it obviously you don't want to put something as powerful as this motor magnet near a hard driver or any kind of permanent media because it will destroy it so we've got those off and I'm just going to mark this on our sheet as well so there's our two screws for the bottom plates two screws for the top plate and those were just the easy ones to cherry pick let's figure out the best approach to taking this thing apart cuz I have not taken one of these apart yet obviously it's brand new uh so these I can tell you right now these four go to the pump block or well it's not a pump because it's not a liquid card but rather the cold plate the um alloy heat sink right here that you can see through the acrylic that alloy heat sink is Mount Ed by these four Philips head screws and then the rest there's a bunch of really tiny screws I think I have a tool that can do that that holds on the back plate and this back plate is sort of like the 981 which I happen to have over here off to the side this 980 back plate up here there's one screw spot you can see this stands out a bit more than the rest of the back plate that's cuz that comes off to give more breathability for SLI I don't think it really did a lot for the 980 but for the 1080 they decide to change it for this entire half of the back blade so you can just take that whole thing off I don't think it does not look like we'll have to remove that to do what I want to do later which is install a liquid pump uh so that looks like it can stay there so let's go ahead and just start where it's the most obvious with these it looks like number four that's a five number four Allen screws something like that yes that is what it is this one's actually very loose I'm curious if someone else came in here first um so you have this is a a four or is it a five That's a Some Kind of millimeter Allen key going to put that there go diagonal opposing corners for every screw from now on this is what I just a rule I have cuz if you hit something that is uh is under some torque particularly anything like a heat sink for a CPU or a GPU you will want to um go opposing corners and that is just to make sure that the the torque spreads out evenly over the device as you're removing it or installing it and does not cause any damage so we can do those up there that's right there something like that so we've gotten the four screws off for the main part of the Shroud that's the sort of left side of the Shroud this part looks like it's a separate piece of plastic which uh as you'll see in this box I've got is actually true for the 980ti as well so this is our 980ti this is the 980ti if youve ever wanted to see a box of a $650 video card these are the parts left over from one of them so this is the old heat sink for the 980 TI and one thing I really want to do is play with this heat sink on the 1080 if it fits and see if their new one actually has any real changes cuz they've said that it actually performs much better uh so I want to validate that statement that's the acrylic plate this is the Shroud for the 980 TI and uh that was the left side of it and I can actually just do this for you and then that's the right side of it and it mounts together like that with these sort of feet that socket together uh and then you've got this part of it as well for the front that mounts in there so you've got these two screws that hold this down these two screws that hold these pieces together right here uh these two screws Mount into into it looks like not the heat sink but it mounts to something in there uh and then there are a couple of screws on the underside as well and this if you look at these two it's basically the exact same thing they've just tesselated or they they stopped the render process when they're generating the Shroud so uh same mounting points though it all looks very similar to me so we're going to put that away and follow the procedure used for the 980ti which is next going to be to remove the small screw that's right here on the underside of the card so this is starting to get loose now I can feel it uh beginning to give but it's not released quite yet we need to undo the one at the top here it's the same size Allen screw and uh and then we will be pretty close to pulling this thing completely apart at least for the Shroud so you can see my magnetic project mat over here is beginning to get pretty filled in with the the plate you'll definitely want to copy that if you do this project yourself because that will help you significantly in reassembling it if something goes wrong you also want to really make sure you're not stripping any screws which is very easily done with these right here I'm not sure if these are they're magnetic so they not sure what kind of screw it is but it's a very soft metal um for these these smaller head screws so you want to be really careful about not stripping those and our next part of the process you can see this plate is now the acrylic is now loose uh so the only thing holding it in there's the force from the the two pieces of the Shroud holding it down which I guess answers our earlier question is these screws hold the plate down so that's all those do let's remove these two CU I know these two socket into the uh the main part of the Shroud on the left as we saw with the 980ti once we get these two out and the next two out I think it'll pull apart but I'm not positive I think it's all though so the card is obviously still held together some I've been pulling on this a little bit and there's obviously a screw in there somewhere normally the uh the rear iio area does actually have a screw that's important and there's there's a couple of them some of them need to be removed and some don't need to be removed because we don't actually have to take this this part of the expansion slot out it's just not important for our purposes so I am going to reference the uh 980 TI box again box of cannibalized parts from the 98 TI and just before you call the p p equivalent for Hardware this is actually still a functioning card so um let's see what we've got here this looks like are all these screws in so all the screws for the 98 TI it looks like I left in or I reinserted for the hybrid block once we installed that and I'm not seeing an obvious reason to remove any of these just from first glance actually I can see some separation back here oh oh there it goes okay cool so we're actually good to go on the 1080 you can see that's starting to P apart uh so we're just going to unsocket that so that's the satisfying unsing of the 1080 that you can get let's get this 980 Parts out of here again and just for sake of comparison so they said they changed their heat sink let's take a look at that and see if they did I'm going to clean this off a little bit before I put on the anti-static mat uh so here's the old heat sink there's the new one looks like there are actually some changes to it so there's some cosmetic changes and it looks like there are some performance changes but we'll we'll know when we look further into it I've already done the Thal benchmarks on this as part of the review so we know how it performs and it is uh it's on the chart somewhere you'll you'll see a chart on the in the review but they're pretty close to each other a degree or two I think um so we got a bunch of small screws in here that are holding things down we'll have to be careful about those Let's uh let's get the rest of the Shroud apart how is this held on looks like this is still being held on somewhere so I'm going to look for that so I think what I've decided is that these tiny screws are probably holding things together and I do remember taking a bunch of screws like this out of the 980ti previously so they do have to come out at some point to get all the way down to the GPU very small screws though do not misplace these I'm going to stick them all up in the top corner of my mat and just make a note that these go into the underside of the Shroud let's just say this block is for shroud Underside just so I know where those go take this one I'm doing opposing opposing Corners again as much as possible anyway there were four screws holding this part of the uh the card together I'm going to flip this over now and start preparing to remove the actual heat sink itself which is secured by these four large screws so this is where it's w that is very that's very loose that's kind of curious those aren't bad those are all those are all Factory tight this one was pretty loose but we're going to take this apart it is a spring loaded set of screws uh do opposing Corners because that's applying tension to the PCB and uh it's pretty pretty low Force but it's just better to be safe and not apply any undo Force at odd angles to a $700 video card so we've got all of those out I think I just felt that heat sink fall out of the card yes it is beginning to fall apart there it goes so there is the new heat sink uh you can see the thermal compound is on there of course still it's pretty pretty fresh as it is a brand new card pushed out to the sides a bit and then uh in terms of heat sink design are these actually reasonably different let me uh I'm going to clean this off so if you want to do this yourself you can just get uh any kind of paper towel and rubbing alcohol and rub that off I actually didn't use any rubbing Al alcohol looks like it's pretty pretty new still so there's the new heat sink versus the old the old one is the one uh right here so that's the old heat sink for the 980 TI not the 980 though I think the 980 is pretty similar uh here is a 980 that's assembled for reference and it looks like there's a couple cosmetic changes here I don't know if that really impacts performance or not it's thermal is pretty sensitive so it's certainly possible that an extra Channel like that would impact performance but uh it does look mostly cosmetic to be honest looks like the rest of it's all pretty similar design I know there's Vapor Chambers set up in this thing somewhere but we might have to start drilling drilling stuff apart and cutting holes to find that so to explain this sort of G clay tribit uh Nvidia obviously the company Taiwan where it was fabbed and then it looks like that might be a specific model number or something but the GPU itself is GP 104 and it's the sub version Dash 400 A1 is the Rev so that is the revision number so a in in the hardware industry is used universally as meaning it's a consumer ready product as opposed to an X rev if you saw X1 what X1 or X2 or x0 means is that it's a it's sort of a lab sample so X is a lab sample it's not really consumer ready and it's something that's being tested internally uh this is A1 so obviously it's ready to go it's a full version of the card it was not some internal version that we were sampled this is actually the retail product uh but we're ready to take the rest of the Shroud off now so this thing came loose as I took off the uh the heat sink so the heat sink was what was keeping this down we can pull that off now and that is the container this is actually a good bit different that is the container for the blower fan the previous container is right here so they are got similarities where it matters they've got this enclosure here but this feels like a metal enclosure to keep the keep the air flow going where Nvidia wanted it to go which is basically contain it within the card uh and then this heat sink off to the far right side over or yeah far right side over here is the vrm heat sink I think the voltage regulator module lives under there so let's uh let's go ahead and finish this tear down process the vrms under here I want to see what that looks like I want to see what the gdr 5x memory looks like this is attached as you'll see that's just a hot wire and a ground wire and that just power Powers the LED so this is back lit if you wanted to change the LEDs you could come down to this level and start pulling this apart and change your LEDs there or you just paint that part of the card of course it maybe be easier but let's just go ahead and disconnect that from the board ideally don't pull on the cables but I don't know if I'm going to have a better way of doing this without uh more Precision instrument than I've got on the table right now yeah we're going to go we're going to go ahead and pull on the cables I would advise against that but uh we're going to do that for this video next part looks like a couple screws for the far right side of the Shroud or far left from my perspective these are Phillips screws and that's not a big enough screwdriver so I don't want to strip them this is going to work okay so we've built a new screwdriver to take this out that looks better cool I'm going to magnetize this like I showed you earlier okay there we go there's the second screw I'm going to put these on the mat these go inside the fan more or less what's next oh there's that so we just uh just by accident figured out how to pull this off uh that is different than the old one the old one I think was adhere to it so there's the little tab that tiny tab just sockets in right here and then there's three of them and you apply downward pressure to get it in there so that's how that comes off as you'll see we had a uh casualty earlier on the $700 video card luckily not a functional part uh so if you pull those off make sure you do it right unsocket this one as well what's left of it anyway all right so that just pulls up and out crazy glue it later so it looks like I'm going to have to take off the back plate to get to whatever screws are holding down the remainder oh this cooler this might be too big oh it works nice these things I guarantee one of these things will get lost these are actually they've got thread Locker on this it's got blue thread lock on it so I guess if you wanted to rebuild it Factory for any reason if you're taking one apart make sure you put threadlock on there cuz that's something they' notice oh found it we're good this is uh basically exactly why you magnetize a screwdriver by the way so here's our last screw I think for the right side of the back plate oh that's easy that just that just slides right off so you kind of pressure there and pull that up there's the underside very shiny uh no real thermal properties there I'm sure sure it does something but I don't know if it's good or bad or noticeable uh what do we have here what are these screws looks like a very tiny Allen key so uh for lack of better tools we tried a couple things here tried hex drivers to get these out but I don't have any that are small enough uh I don't know if I have ahe of any kind that can get in there I don't know if it's even something that exists but it looks like we can maybe try uh try some needl noose pliers for lack of something closer is that spinning like that's spinning yes that is spinning so we've got the world's worst solution to taking these out you probably shouldn't do it this way I'm sure there's a more Precision Tool but uh then I'd have to walk to go get it cool so there we go that's the first one there's a two three four five six 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 of these that hold off the hold on the um the base of the card here so these are Underside I hope a bunch of people comments about how they're cringing nice there's several more God this sucks what about this oh my god I've made a discovery holy crap that's so much easier come out well this is good while it lasted going to use one of these how do I get so in the excitement of discovering that this screwdriver had uh come out and create a much better tool for the job hex driver with the appropriate size one of the screws got sucked in there come on man I know that this unscrews is it all the same container maybe oh I think it is what there's like three more in there what's in there can you see with your light no really well let's see if we can get the rest out do let's get this part done and figure that out after so now only one can get stuck in there cuz there's already one in in theory so now what's holding it in gotam so now it looks like getting to the end of this not all these screws are relevant I believe it might only be this one and maybe one other back plate screw that one certainly is cuz it's connected right to that black shroud okay might be that might be it there's your IO which we could already see but that will allow us us to pull and separate the rest of it once we figure out what's still holding it on got this out I had to use the hex driver for two of the screws and now I think we can finally separate the card that's a lot of thermal pads so I'm going to be careful here that's what we've got it looks like for the GTX 1080 proper there's what it looks like I'm going to leave that oh we can actually disconnect that really easily so lots of thermal pads those are appeared to it looks like the memory and the vrm and that heat sink on the uh the right side was actually over here but the vrm and some of the memory is the all that stuff's over in this area so we got I believe that's our memory chips the gddr 5x but that's our memory that's our GPU uh we've got some other stuff going on here vrm setup power header with the pin out over here connected to the board and that pretty much wraps up the uh the 1080 that's it so that's cool so that is it for the GTX 1080 and GP 104 this is not big Pascal that's GP 100 but it is the first Pascal chip for the consumer audience on the gaming side uh from the GeForce division of Nvidia really no point to this other than hey this is what it looks like so that's the the tear down process now almost none of this last half the the painful half of the process was necessary to apply the liquid cooler that we're going to throw on there um to do that we actually could have stopped when it was at this stage this is a 980 TI uh you could stop at this stage and this doesn't have all the stupid annoying hex screws on the back but uh and then you you apply the cold plate the block right here where you would apply the heat sink the alloy heat sink normally so that's it that's what I got for you check back for the liquid cooled version with our overclocking results we're going to see if it can sustain a higher clock without the same thermal throttling issues that we experience with the stock cooler for the 1080 uh as always links in the description below for more information patreon link the postal video thank you for watching I'll see you all next time\n"