**Project Completion: Building a Radio**

As I reflect on this project, I am excited to share the culmination of my efforts with you. In this article, we will walk through the final stages of building a radio, from cutting out the design from plywood to completing the charging circuit.

**Cutting Out the Design**

Using my Xcarve CNC machine, I cut out the design from plywood. If you don't have access to such machines, you can use a glue stick with an elephant on it to stick the paper blueprint onto the wood and use various saws to follow the outline. This process requires patience, but with a drill to create starting points for your saw inside the component cutouts, you can successfully create this case.

**Milling Process**

With the Easel software, I imported the SVG files, made adjustments as needed, and added a square around each piece to separate it from the wooden panel. The milling process took approximately 3 hours in total and resulted in not-so-awesome-looking straight lines and round edges due to using two low taps and a milon bit that was too big.

**Assembly and Finishing**

After knocking off excess wood shavings with sandpaper, I used the drill to widen holes for LEDs, antenna, and rotary encoder. Files were used to improve cutouts and make all components fit nicely. The test fits turned out to be successful, so I moved on by marking necessary mounting holes for speaker, LCD, and micro USB breakouts and created them with a 3 mm drill.

**Final Assembly**

I applied waterproof wood glue onto the lower side of the square wave and joined all pieces together while ensuring to wipe off squished-out glue. With three clamps and a transformer, I let the glue dry for 12 hours before removing excess glue on the wood using acetone and sandpaper.

**Completing the Charging Circuit**

Once the charging test was successful, I continued by drilling two 3 mm holes into the perf board to determine fitting spots for the circuit onto the back piece of the case. After mounting the board with bolts and nuts to the wood, I connected the output + terminal of the TP 4056 board to one side of the SL light switch while the other side's negative output terminal connected directly to the antenna.

**Final Touches**

The radio was theoretically complete, but the backside obviously didn't stay in place yet. To fix this, I glued two new demium magnets 6 mm from the edge on the middle of the back plate using two-component adhesive. After finding out the traction polarity of the other two magnets, I glued those two accordingly inside the box with a bit of hot glue.

**Conclusion**

With the radio's charging circuit finalized and the backside snapped nicely into place, this project is now complete! If you liked it, don't forget to like, share, and subscribe. Consider supporting me through my Patreon campaign to keep such videos coming. Stay creative, and I will see you next time!

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enlet's bring this project to an end I started off the case construction by measuring all the components which needed to be mounted onto the case and simultaneously Dre crew technical drawings for them I used those and the software inkscape to evenly position the cutouts for the speaker LCD and rotary encoder onto the front piece after creating a rectangle around those I achieved dimensions of 148 by 79 mm which seemed acceptable with the front as a reference I created a back side with the same dimensions a bottom side with a depth of 50 mm and the top side with the same measurements but an additional 7 mm hole for the antenna then follow the right side and finally the left side with the cutouts for the slide switch the two 5mm status LEDs for the charging process and the micro USB breakout now in order to join those pieces together later on I used a rather simple Locking System that means I needed to add 6 mm of material onto the sides of each piece which is intentionally the thickness of the beach plywood I will use in a minute then all I had to do was grading an evenly spaced Square wave pattern on each sides and drawing the inverse of that pattern onto the opposite opposite side that will connect with it the back side though is an exception which does not receive such a pattern in order to make the guts of the radio accessible at all times but I still need to increase its size to compensate the additional 6 mm of the other pieces once the design sketch was finally complete I use Google Chrome to open the SVG files and printed the Left Right top and bottom piece as a portrait and the front and back piece as a landscape and make sure to not use any margins otherwise the size of the vector graphics gets scaled down afterwards I use scissors to firstly cut out the rough shape of all the pieces and then remove the wide parts of the square wave pattern at this point I was capable of checking whether this Locking System would really work the way I imagined it and surprisingly it did now to cut out the design from the plywoods I used my xcarve CNC machine but don't feel discouraged if you don't have access to such machines you can easily use a glue stick with an elephant on it to stick the paper blueprint onto the woods and use all kinds of saws to follow the outline I know that it takes a lot of time but if you also add a drill to create starting points for your saw inside the component cutouts you can definitely create this case as for me I started the easel xov Control software imported the SVG files did some adjustments with which portions needed to be removed and which not and finally added a square around each piece in order to separate it from the wooden panel then I started the Milling process which took approximately 3 hours in total and resulted into not that awesome looking straight lines and round edges but the reason for that was that I used two low Taps which means the material broke free before finishing the job and the milon bit I used was also a size too big never as after knocking off the excess wood shavings with sandpaper I used the drill to widen the holes for the LEDs antenna and rotary encoder used files to improve the cutouts in order to make all the components fit nicely and finally also used files to straighten the sides and making the edges sharper since the following test fits turned out to be a success I moved on by marking the necessary mounting holes for the speaker LCD and micro USB breakouts and and created them all with a 3 mm drill afterwards I applied waterproof wood glue onto the Lower State of the square wave and joined all the pieces together while making sure to always wipe off the squished out glue with the help of three clamps and a Transformer I let the glue dry for 12 hours before I started to completely remove any excess glue on the wood with the H of acetone and sandpaper this needs to be done carefully because the following codes of protective oil will not stick to any glue particles only the wood after this oil treatment I fix a telescopic antenna in its rest position and used two component adhesive on the inside to mount it into place once that was dry as well I secured the slide switch with small wood screws the micro USB breakout the LCD and the speaker with M3 nuts and bolts and the rotary encoda with its own securing nuts then I determined which pin of my RGB LEDs are red and green remove the unnecessary ones and used hot glue to secure them inside the box next I removed the original LEDs of the charging circuit solar thin wires in its places secure the battery with circuit inside the box and sold the wires to the LEDs we just glued into place to finalize the charging circuit I sold a 0.75 s mm flexible wire to the micro USB Breakout which connects directly to the input of the TP 4056 circuit because the following charging test was successful I continued by drilling two 3 mm holes into the perf board determined fitting spots for the circuit onto the back piece of the case and also drilled holes there with the perf board ones as a template after mounting the board with bolts and nuts to the woods I connected the output plus terminal of the TP 4056 board to one side of the SL light switch while the other side the negative output terminal and the antenna directly connects to the main circuit the only thing left to connect was the speaker and after this was done the radio was theoretically complete but the backside obviously does not stay in place yet for that I glued two new demium magnets 6 mm from the edge in the middle of the back plate with the help of two component adhesive after finding out the traction polarity of the other two magnets I glued those two accordingly inside the box with a bit of hul glue and afterwards just as before with two component adhesive 12 hours later the glue was dry and the backside snapped nicely into place almost by itself even after restoring the initial mounting of the main P Board to the wood the magnets do their job without a problem and just in case you're curious switching from the TDA 1905 to a pre-made class D amp only requires four more wires additional 10 minutes and delivers decent audio quality as well and with that being said this project is complete I hope you liked it if so don't forget to like share and subscribe consider supporting me through my patreon campaign to keep such videos coming stay creative and I will see you next time