**Replacing Coilovers: A Step-by-Step Guide**

Replacing coilovers is a crucial step in upgrading the suspension system of your vehicle. In this guide, we will walk you through the process of replacing coilovers on a rear axle.

The first step in the process is to remove the two flange nuts holding the damper in place. After these nuts are removed, we need to jack up the car and put it on a jack stand to access the bolts that need to be removed next. We also need to remove the wheel sensor wire brackets, which are located on the lower control arm. There are two of these brackets, one on each side of the lower control arm.

Next, we need to remove the flange bolt on the damper and then the flange bolt that connects the trailing arm to the lower control arm. Once both of these bolts are removed, we can pull down on the damper and then yank it out. This will give us access to the old coilover, which we can compare to the new one.

After removing the old coilover, we need to install the new one. The first step is to place the new coilover into position, making sure that the welded nut is facing the front of the vehicle. We then loosely install the two flange nuts on top of the strut tower. Next, we need to tighten down the wheel sensor wire bracket to 7.2 lb feet on each of the three bolts.

Once the wheel sensor bracket is tightened, we can move on to installing the two flange bolts. These bolts need to be torqued to 40 lb feet. After the flange bolts are installed, we need to tighten down the strut tower bolts to 36 lb feet. Finally, we need to make sure that the lower ring is as tight as possible, so that the height stays the same and there is no risk of the coilover coming off.

**Adjusting the Coilovers**

After installing the new coilover, we can start adjusting it to achieve the desired ride height. In our case, we had a gap between 2.8 in and 1.5 in on the front coilover, which raised the car up a bit. For this rear coilover, we decided to set the gap at 2.25 in, as it looked like it was going to be a little too low.

**Driving the Car After Coilover Replacement**

Once the coilovers are installed and everything is back together, we can start driving the car. In our case, we noticed that the ride height had changed significantly, with the rear right coilover lowering from 2.88 in to 1.8 in, and the rear left coilover going from 3.2 in to 1.5 in. We will need to adjust these settings further to achieve the desired ride height.

**Important Considerations**

It's also important to note that we forgot to orient the brake hose mounting bracket correctly during the installation of the front coilovers, which resulted in a raised ride height. To avoid this mistake, make sure to get the orientation correct and press the fork up against the coilover using a jack to eliminate any gaps.

By following these steps and taking into account the importance of proper orientation and adjustment, you can successfully replace your coilovers and achieve a better ride height and improved handling on your vehicle.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhello and welcome in this video we're going to be installing coilovers so these are yonaka coilovers um and I'm going to be installing them on a 1999 Acura Integra GS so these are the front here um and then the rear ones have the forks on them so the first step we're going to want to do in installing coil lows is measure the gap between the wheel and the wheel Arch so that we know how much we've lowered it once we've installed the coilovers so I just picked on a point on the tire which I know I could replicate uh that little ring going around and it looks to be exactly 4.5 in from the wheel Arch to that ring so that'll be our reference point so I went ahead and measured each of the wheels uh the front passenger side was 4.5 in the front driver side was 4.3 in uh which I would have expected those to be opposite since the driver is going to be on the left side um I would have thought it would have been a little higher I then when you sit in it it might compress down a little bit so it might be that the right side can go down a little bit more than the left side um and it was the same case with the rear actually so the rear uh driver's side was 3.22 in whereas the rear passenger side was 2.8 in 88 in so uh once again on the rear might be able to go down a little bit more on the right side and the left side and kind of balance it out a little bit so the first thing we're going to do is get the car up on jack stands and remove the front wheel so if you're not quite sure how to do that I've got a video on it and you can check that out before watching the rest of this so the first bolts we're going to want to remove are the brake hose mounting bolts there's going to be one here and then one here okay so I've removed the brake hose mounting bolts uh those were pretty easy to get off um and then the next one we're going to take off is this flange bolt uh on the back of the fork here so we've got the flange bolt removed and now we have one more flange bolt to remove uh down here at the bottom holding the fork in okay so I've removed the flange bolt that uh connects the fork here to the lower control arm and so now we just want to take off the fork so you can just kind of slide this off so the fork slides down off of the uh shock and then you can just kind of Wiggle out of there so once we have the fork off we want to remove the two flange nuts uh that are holding the damper in um and I've actually got a strut bar on here so we're going to have to remove that too but that just connects underneath those flange nuts so after we take off those flange nuts the uh damper just Falls right down in there uh and then we can just kind of pull it out so once you get the shock off you're going to want to take off the brake hose Mount to reuse um and I just used the hammer and kind of hit it uh and it came right off so so there we have the old uh shock and spring combo we're going to install the new coil over um if you want you can go ahead and just install it the way there have it adjusted when it arrives um I want my car to be a little bit higher since I'm in a city with lots of potholes and stuff like that speed bumps so I just kind of AR arbitrarily picked uh about 2.8 in um between this ring here and the bottom Fork so then you're just going to tighten down uh this ring nut here and then to finally tighten it you can take the spanner in and go ahead and tighten that down so your next step you're going to want to pull the coil over up through the upper strut and tighten down the two flange nuts so now we're going to take the brake hose uh mounting bracket and just slide that on the coil over and you're going to want to make sure you have that oriented the right direction and then you're going to take this fork and put that up to the coil over and then install that flange nut or bolt down at the bottom so I ended up having to jack up the lower control arm a little bit um so that I could get this uh flange bolt to line up with the control arm and the connecting Fork um and then you're going to want to torque this down to 47 lb feet so next we're going to put in the flange bowt uh up at the top of the fork and that's going to be torque down to 32 lb feet and finally you'll want to tighten down the brake hose those mounting bolts um I wasn't able to find a torque value for these so just make sure they're snug when you put these in uh so they're not all moving around all right so The Brak hose mounting bolts are in place and our final step will simply be to torque down these two top uh flange nuts to 36 lb feet then we can put our wheel back on and we're good to go okay so the first thing we want to do for the rear is take off uh the two flange nuts holding in the damper so after we've got those flange nuts off the strut we're going to go ahead jack up the car uh in the rear and put it on jack stand so we can get at all the bolts we need to remove next we need to remove the wheel sensor wire brackets which are located on the lower control arm so there's one there uh one there and one more in here here so next we're going to remove the flange bolt um on the damper and then we'll be removing the uh flange bolt that connects the trailing arm to the lower control arm Okay so we've got both of those flange nuts uh taken out and the next step you simply can just pull down on the uh damper and then yank that thing out okay so here we have the old and the new rear coilovers um when I put on the front coilovers I had a gap here of about 2.8 in and it actually raised the car up a bit so for this one I did it at about 1.5 but I can adjust that later anyway so it's kind of just an arbitrary number at this point um and then we'll see measure it and see where it's at once we install it okay so our next step is going to be to stick the coil over in um you're going to want to make sure this welded nut here is facing the front of the vehicle um we're just going to place that in there and then Loosely install those two flanch nuts up on the strut Tower okay so next we're going to tighten down the uh wheel sensor wire bracket back onto lower control arm so that'll be those uh three bolts we installed and just kind of make those snug so next we're going to install the two flange bolts this one here and this one over here uh and those are both going to be torqued to 40 lb feet okay so once the two flange bolts are are installed tighten down the uh wheel sensor bracket uh to 7.2 PB feet on each of those three bolts and then the last step will be to tighten down uh these strut Tower bolts to 36 lb feet so the last thing you're just going to want to make sure this lower ring here um is as tight as possible so that the uh it can adjust it all and the height will stay the same um and you wouldn't have any risk of that coming off so you can either use the spanner wrench to tighten that or you can kind of just put the spanner wrench up against this and maybe pound against it with a hammer just make sure you get that pretty snug so that that doesn't adjust at all okay so the coilovers are installed and everything is back together so I can go ahead and drive the car um just looking at some of the dimensions here the front right went from 4.5 up to 4.85 pretty interesting the front left one from 4.3 to 4.8 in the rear right um I actually changed that spacing I was talking about uh where I had previously had it at 1.5 in uh between the lower part of the fork on the uh rear coilover uh into the upper ring I had said 1.5 I changed that to 2.5 2.25 in um because it looked like it was going to be a little bit too low so the rear right went from 2.88 to 1.8 in so lowered about uh an inch and then the rear left went from 3.2 down to 1.5 so quite a bit so obviously I'm going to need to adjust these a little bit um and I'm going to have a separate video explaining how to adjust uh coilovers and adjust the ride height so the reason when I installed the front coilovers that there was actually I actually raised the car is that I actually forgot uh one step and that is with this brake hose mounting bracket uh you want to make sure you get oriented correctly um and then you want to use a jack and press this Fork up to the coil over so there's no Gap so you can see here that I've got a gap and that's what accounted for uh raising the car so once you press this in and you eliminate that Gap uh would have been at the stock ride heighthello and welcome in this video we're going to be installing coilovers so these are yonaka coilovers um and I'm going to be installing them on a 1999 Acura Integra GS so these are the front here um and then the rear ones have the forks on them so the first step we're going to want to do in installing coil lows is measure the gap between the wheel and the wheel Arch so that we know how much we've lowered it once we've installed the coilovers so I just picked on a point on the tire which I know I could replicate uh that little ring going around and it looks to be exactly 4.5 in from the wheel Arch to that ring so that'll be our reference point so I went ahead and measured each of the wheels uh the front passenger side was 4.5 in the front driver side was 4.3 in uh which I would have expected those to be opposite since the driver is going to be on the left side um I would have thought it would have been a little higher I then when you sit in it it might compress down a little bit so it might be that the right side can go down a little bit more than the left side um and it was the same case with the rear actually so the rear uh driver's side was 3.22 in whereas the rear passenger side was 2.8 in 88 in so uh once again on the rear might be able to go down a little bit more on the right side and the left side and kind of balance it out a little bit so the first thing we're going to do is get the car up on jack stands and remove the front wheel so if you're not quite sure how to do that I've got a video on it and you can check that out before watching the rest of this so the first bolts we're going to want to remove are the brake hose mounting bolts there's going to be one here and then one here okay so I've removed the brake hose mounting bolts uh those were pretty easy to get off um and then the next one we're going to take off is this flange bolt uh on the back of the fork here so we've got the flange bolt removed and now we have one more flange bolt to remove uh down here at the bottom holding the fork in okay so I've removed the flange bolt that uh connects the fork here to the lower control arm and so now we just want to take off the fork so you can just kind of slide this off so the fork slides down off of the uh shock and then you can just kind of Wiggle out of there so once we have the fork off we want to remove the two flange nuts uh that are holding the damper in um and I've actually got a strut bar on here so we're going to have to remove that too but that just connects underneath those flange nuts so after we take off those flange nuts the uh damper just Falls right down in there uh and then we can just kind of pull it out so once you get the shock off you're going to want to take off the brake hose Mount to reuse um and I just used the hammer and kind of hit it uh and it came right off so so there we have the old uh shock and spring combo we're going to install the new coil over um if you want you can go ahead and just install it the way there have it adjusted when it arrives um I want my car to be a little bit higher since I'm in a city with lots of potholes and stuff like that speed bumps so I just kind of AR arbitrarily picked uh about 2.8 in um between this ring here and the bottom Fork so then you're just going to tighten down uh this ring nut here and then to finally tighten it you can take the spanner in and go ahead and tighten that down so your next step you're going to want to pull the coil over up through the upper strut and tighten down the two flange nuts so now we're going to take the brake hose uh mounting bracket and just slide that on the coil over and you're going to want to make sure you have that oriented the right direction and then you're going to take this fork and put that up to the coil over and then install that flange nut or bolt down at the bottom so I ended up having to jack up the lower control arm a little bit um so that I could get this uh flange bolt to line up with the control arm and the connecting Fork um and then you're going to want to torque this down to 47 lb feet so next we're going to put in the flange bowt uh up at the top of the fork and that's going to be torque down to 32 lb feet and finally you'll want to tighten down the brake hose those mounting bolts um I wasn't able to find a torque value for these so just make sure they're snug when you put these in uh so they're not all moving around all right so The Brak hose mounting bolts are in place and our final step will simply be to torque down these two top uh flange nuts to 36 lb feet then we can put our wheel back on and we're good to go okay so the first thing we want to do for the rear is take off uh the two flange nuts holding in the damper so after we've got those flange nuts off the strut we're going to go ahead jack up the car uh in the rear and put it on jack stand so we can get at all the bolts we need to remove next we need to remove the wheel sensor wire brackets which are located on the lower control arm so there's one there uh one there and one more in here here so next we're going to remove the flange bolt um on the damper and then we'll be removing the uh flange bolt that connects the trailing arm to the lower control arm Okay so we've got both of those flange nuts uh taken out and the next step you simply can just pull down on the uh damper and then yank that thing out okay so here we have the old and the new rear coilovers um when I put on the front coilovers I had a gap here of about 2.8 in and it actually raised the car up a bit so for this one I did it at about 1.5 but I can adjust that later anyway so it's kind of just an arbitrary number at this point um and then we'll see measure it and see where it's at once we install it okay so our next step is going to be to stick the coil over in um you're going to want to make sure this welded nut here is facing the front of the vehicle um we're just going to place that in there and then Loosely install those two flanch nuts up on the strut Tower okay so next we're going to tighten down the uh wheel sensor wire bracket back onto lower control arm so that'll be those uh three bolts we installed and just kind of make those snug so next we're going to install the two flange bolts this one here and this one over here uh and those are both going to be torqued to 40 lb feet okay so once the two flange bolts are are installed tighten down the uh wheel sensor bracket uh to 7.2 PB feet on each of those three bolts and then the last step will be to tighten down uh these strut Tower bolts to 36 lb feet so the last thing you're just going to want to make sure this lower ring here um is as tight as possible so that the uh it can adjust it all and the height will stay the same um and you wouldn't have any risk of that coming off so you can either use the spanner wrench to tighten that or you can kind of just put the spanner wrench up against this and maybe pound against it with a hammer just make sure you get that pretty snug so that that doesn't adjust at all okay so the coilovers are installed and everything is back together so I can go ahead and drive the car um just looking at some of the dimensions here the front right went from 4.5 up to 4.85 pretty interesting the front left one from 4.3 to 4.8 in the rear right um I actually changed that spacing I was talking about uh where I had previously had it at 1.5 in uh between the lower part of the fork on the uh rear coilover uh into the upper ring I had said 1.5 I changed that to 2.5 2.25 in um because it looked like it was going to be a little bit too low so the rear right went from 2.88 to 1.8 in so lowered about uh an inch and then the rear left went from 3.2 down to 1.5 so quite a bit so obviously I'm going to need to adjust these a little bit um and I'm going to have a separate video explaining how to adjust uh coilovers and adjust the ride height so the reason when I installed the front coilovers that there was actually I actually raised the car is that I actually forgot uh one step and that is with this brake hose mounting bracket uh you want to make sure you get oriented correctly um and then you want to use a jack and press this Fork up to the coil over so there's no Gap so you can see here that I've got a gap and that's what accounted for uh raising the car so once you press this in and you eliminate that Gap uh would have been at the stock ride height\n"