Building a Remote Control System with Arduino and IR Receivers

The project begins by describing the setup of the system's components, including transistors, switches, and an IR receiver. The system connects to the Arduino Nano pins 2, 3, and 4, which are used to control the transistors. The ground potential of the control port switches is also connected to the ground pin of the Arduino. Each individual collector is connected to the other side of the switches using a simple test code.

The transistors are turned on one after the other, simulating the tech test where it was necessary to push by hand before moving on. An IR receiver is added to the system, which uses an IR remote library and captures incoming IR signals. The codes use three random 32-bit hexadecimal values as trigger values to activate the transistors.

The transmitter for the system consists of a nod Reno Pro board, with tactile switches and pulldown resistors on pins four, five, and six. These connections allow the input pins to connect to the supply voltage. An IR LED is also used, connected to pin three of the Arduino with an over 100 ohm resistor. This setup illuminates the LED bright enough at a voltage of three volts.

The transmitter codes send out previously chosen hexadecimal values by pushing the tactile switches. The code uploads to the Arduino using FTDI breakouts, resulting in another test that turns out to be successful as well. However, one problem remains: the power consumption of the transmitter is around 8 milliamps at 3 volts. This means a common button cell with a capacity of 200 and 20 milliamp hours would only last around twenty seven point five hours.

To save power, the indicator LEDs of the Arduino are disabled as well as the super tiny 5 pin voltage regulator. However, this still results in a current consumption of around seven Williams, which is still too high. To fix this, the low power library is included in the codes, with another tactile switch and pulldown resistor added on pin 2. The code is edited to include sleep modes after 3 seconds when no button is pushed, only waking up with the wake-up button.

Simultaneously during sleep mode, the Arduino only requires a current draw of below one my cram, allowing for a battery life of a couple of years. This final necessary test involves disconnecting the IR receiver and trying talking up the output pin of the already existent receive of the speaker system to the Arduino, which work just as well.

Instead of using an Arduino Nano, the project will use an atmega328p later on, which is programmed beforehand with the help of the Arduino Uno. However, no worries if the implementation of this IC is confusing; the article includes easy-to-recreate schematics for the final design of the receiver and transmitter with the help of the easy EDA circuit design software.

A parts list and additional information about this project can be found in the video description. The author then started the circuit building process with the transmitter by creating a 10x15 centimeter square of copper with copper dots, determining a logical layout for the components, and sewing them in. Finally, they connected everything using silver wire and flexible wire after plugging in the battery.

The circuit works just fine, resulting in another piece of proof. Another piece of proof board is created according to the size of the control boards, and the receiver circuits are created by following the previously drawn schematic at the end of this project. Four holes are drilled into the purports with the control board as reference cut four small pieces of M3 threaded rods connected the supply voltage which is NPR our receiver outputs of the control ports to the perf board.

The circuit is fixed everything in place with the help of the threaded rod pieces and four additional two centimeter spacers after screwing in the front plates. Testing out the final results results in this project finally being complete and working like a charm as well.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enusing remotes to control various appliances in your home is nowadays very common infrared LEDs IR receivers any unique communication protocol like any SIA makes it all possible but once you lose such remote usually don't have access to the necessary IR codes and have to control your device by hand which is a pain in the ass so in this video I will show you how I added an additional circuit to my speaker system in order to control it Wooper homemade remotes let's get started first off I remove the front panel of the subwoofer units unplug the connection cable unscrew the four visible screws on the PCB and slice through the foam on the sides in order to free the control PCB the important components are the Atmel 8089 mac controller the free tactile switch is NP ir receiver by following the circuit pops of the switches and doing some continuity testing I asserted that by closing the switches they connect different inputs of the microcontroller to ground this can externally be simulated through the help of NPN bipolar transistors like the BC 637 I simply edit the gate resistor of 2 kilo ohm to each of them which also connect to the arduino nano pins 2 3 & 4 then i connected their meadows to the ground potential of the control port switches as well as the ground pin of the arduino and hooked up each individual collector to the other side of the switches by creating a simple test codes I turned on each transistor one after the other which seemed to achieve my intended goal by simulating the tech test which is I had to push by hand before so I moved on by adding an IR receiver the TSO pu for a 3a to the mix whose output pin directly connects to pin 11 of the Arduino afterwards I included the IR remote library the codes use the command to capture incoming IR signals and use three random 32-bit hexadecimal values as trigger values to activate the transistors and at this point the receiver was complete time to move on to the transmitter for that I used nod Reno Pro meaning you would sword and had us and three tactile switches woof pulldown resistors on pin four five and six that can connect the input pins to the supply voltage additionally I used an IR led over 100 ohm resistor on pin three of the Arduino this setup should illuminate the LED bright enough at a voltage of three bolts since I will be using a 3 volt button cell as the supply voltage later on after creating the transmitter codes which sends out the previously chosen hexadecimal values by pushing the tektite switches I upload the code whuppin FTDI breakouts entered another test which turned out to be success as well but one problem that still remains was the power consumption of the transmitter which was around 8 milli amps at 3 volts which means that a common button cell with a capacity of 200 and 20 milliamp hours would only last around twenty seven point five hours to save a bit of power I disorder the indicator LEDs of the arduino as well as the super tiny 5 pin voltage regulator this resulted in a current consumption of around seven Williams which was still too high so I included the low power library in the codes edited another tactile switch wuff pulldown resistor on pin 2 and edited the code slightly so that the Arduino enter sleep modes after 3 seconds when no button was pushed afterwards only the wake up button can wake him up and resets the timer for the next sleep session simultaneously and during sleep mode the Arduino only requires a current draw of below one my cram which allows a battery one time of a couple of years perfect as the last necessary test I disconnected the so for use IR receiver and try talking up the output pin of the already existent receive of the speaker system to the Arduino which work just as well but instead of the Arduino Nano I will be using an atmega328p later on which I programmed beforehand weapon Arduino Uno but don't worry if you are confused now about how to implement this IC because I drew an easy to recreate schematic for the final design of the receiver and transmitter with the help of the easy EDA circuit design software you can find those schematics the parts list and additional information about this project as always in the video description but nevertheless I then started the circuit building process with the transmitter by creating a 10 by 15 centimeter square of purport with copper dots determined a logical layout for the components and sewed in one of the other before I finally connected them a whoop silver copper wire and a bit of flexible wire after plugging in the battery the circuit work just fine so I created another piece of proof boards according to the size of the control boards and created my receiver circuits by following my previously drawn schematic at the end of this project I drilled four holes into the purports with the control board as reference cut four small pieces of m3 threaded rods connected the supply voltage this which is NPR our receiver outputs of the control ports to the perf board and fixed everything in place with the help of the threaded rod pieces and four additional two centimeter spacers after screwing in the front plates and testing out the final results this project was finally complete and works like a charm as well I hope you liked it if so don't forget to Like share and subscribe consider supporting me a through patreon that is what keeps the show going stay creative and I will see you next timeusing remotes to control various appliances in your home is nowadays very common infrared LEDs IR receivers any unique communication protocol like any SIA makes it all possible but once you lose such remote usually don't have access to the necessary IR codes and have to control your device by hand which is a pain in the ass so in this video I will show you how I added an additional circuit to my speaker system in order to control it Wooper homemade remotes let's get started first off I remove the front panel of the subwoofer units unplug the connection cable unscrew the four visible screws on the PCB and slice through the foam on the sides in order to free the control PCB the important components are the Atmel 8089 mac controller the free tactile switch is NP ir receiver by following the circuit pops of the switches and doing some continuity testing I asserted that by closing the switches they connect different inputs of the microcontroller to ground this can externally be simulated through the help of NPN bipolar transistors like the BC 637 I simply edit the gate resistor of 2 kilo ohm to each of them which also connect to the arduino nano pins 2 3 & 4 then i connected their meadows to the ground potential of the control port switches as well as the ground pin of the arduino and hooked up each individual collector to the other side of the switches by creating a simple test codes I turned on each transistor one after the other which seemed to achieve my intended goal by simulating the tech test which is I had to push by hand before so I moved on by adding an IR receiver the TSO pu for a 3a to the mix whose output pin directly connects to pin 11 of the Arduino afterwards I included the IR remote library the codes use the command to capture incoming IR signals and use three random 32-bit hexadecimal values as trigger values to activate the transistors and at this point the receiver was complete time to move on to the transmitter for that I used nod Reno Pro meaning you would sword and had us and three tactile switches woof pulldown resistors on pin four five and six that can connect the input pins to the supply voltage additionally I used an IR led over 100 ohm resistor on pin three of the Arduino this setup should illuminate the LED bright enough at a voltage of three bolts since I will be using a 3 volt button cell as the supply voltage later on after creating the transmitter codes which sends out the previously chosen hexadecimal values by pushing the tektite switches I upload the code whuppin FTDI breakouts entered another test which turned out to be success as well but one problem that still remains was the power consumption of the transmitter which was around 8 milli amps at 3 volts which means that a common button cell with a capacity of 200 and 20 milliamp hours would only last around twenty seven point five hours to save a bit of power I disorder the indicator LEDs of the arduino as well as the super tiny 5 pin voltage regulator this resulted in a current consumption of around seven Williams which was still too high so I included the low power library in the codes edited another tactile switch wuff pulldown resistor on pin 2 and edited the code slightly so that the Arduino enter sleep modes after 3 seconds when no button was pushed afterwards only the wake up button can wake him up and resets the timer for the next sleep session simultaneously and during sleep mode the Arduino only requires a current draw of below one my cram which allows a battery one time of a couple of years perfect as the last necessary test I disconnected the so for use IR receiver and try talking up the output pin of the already existent receive of the speaker system to the Arduino which work just as well but instead of the Arduino Nano I will be using an atmega328p later on which I programmed beforehand weapon Arduino Uno but don't worry if you are confused now about how to implement this IC because I drew an easy to recreate schematic for the final design of the receiver and transmitter with the help of the easy EDA circuit design software you can find those schematics the parts list and additional information about this project as always in the video description but nevertheless I then started the circuit building process with the transmitter by creating a 10 by 15 centimeter square of purport with copper dots determined a logical layout for the components and sewed in one of the other before I finally connected them a whoop silver copper wire and a bit of flexible wire after plugging in the battery the circuit work just fine so I created another piece of proof boards according to the size of the control boards and created my receiver circuits by following my previously drawn schematic at the end of this project I drilled four holes into the purports with the control board as reference cut four small pieces of m3 threaded rods connected the supply voltage this which is NPR our receiver outputs of the control ports to the perf board and fixed everything in place with the help of the threaded rod pieces and four additional two centimeter spacers after screwing in the front plates and testing out the final results this project was finally complete and works like a charm as well I hope you liked it if so don't forget to Like share and subscribe consider supporting me a through patreon that is what keeps the show going stay creative and I will see you next time