**Building and Installing a Sump Basin**

When it comes to building and installing a sump basin, there are several factors to consider in order to ensure that your home's foundation is properly protected from water damage. In this article, we'll take a closer look at some of the key components involved in building and installing a sump basin.

**Digging the Hole**

The first step in building and installing a sump basin is digging a hole for it. This can be a daunting task, especially if you're not experienced with excavation work. To start, dig a hole that's slightly larger than your planned sump basin. The depth of the hole will depend on the level of water table in your area, as well as the elevation of your home's basement floor.

**Setting the Basin**

Once the hole is dug, you'll need to set your sump basin into it. This can be a bit tricky, but with the right tools and materials, it's definitely doable. Start by placing the basin in the center of the hole, making sure that it's level and secure. Then, fill in the sides of the hole with sand or gravel, using a spirit level to ensure that everything is perfectly straight.

**Using a Sleeve**

In my experience, one of the most common problems when building a sump basin is the height of the weeping tile system. To avoid this problem, I like to use a sleeve to set the basin into the hole. This can be as simple as using a fiberglass sleeve that's been kicking around in your workshop or storage shed.

**Connecting to the Weeping Tile System**

Once the basin is set into the hole, it needs to be connected to the weeping tile system that's already in place. This involves cutting out a section of the tubbing and threading it through the hub on the other side of the sump basin. Make sure that everything is securely attached and that there are no leaks or gaps.

**Installing the Lid**

The lid on your sump basin is an essential component, as it provides a secure seal to keep water from spilling out. I like to use a standard lid design, with multiple holes for pipes or pumps to pass through. Make sure that everything is securely attached and that the lid can be easily opened and closed.

**Grading the Tubing**

One of the most important things to get right when building a sump basin is grading the tubing correctly. This involves creating a slight slope in the tubbing to ensure that water flows freely and doesn't collect in one spot. In my case, I had to throw some rock down into the tubbing to keep it from rising up.

**Backfilling with Rock**

Once the basins are installed, they need to be backfilled with rock or gravel. This helps to support the bottom of the sump basin and prevents it from sinking into the ground. Make sure that everything is secure and level before moving on to the next step.

**Finishing Touches**

Finally, once the sump basin is installed, you'll need to add a layer of poly tape around the edges to seal any gaps or cracks. This helps to prevent water from seeping into the cabin or foundation, and keeps everything running smoothly. When the concrete guys come to finish installing the floor, they'll use the poly tape to create a seamless joint.

**Tips and Tricks**

One of the most important things to remember when building a sump basin is to make sure that you're standing on solid ground before backfilling with sand or gravel. This can help prevent problems like settling or shifting of the foundation, which can be costly and time-consuming to fix. Additionally, make sure that everything is securely attached and that there are no leaks or gaps in the system.

By following these tips and tricks, you'll be well on your way to building a reliable and efficient sump basin that will keep your home's foundation protected from water damage for years to come.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhi Shannon here back from house improvements.com and we're back out at the cabin build and I just wanted to show you the waterproofing on the outside of the ICF uh basement and as well as the weeping tile uh has also been installed around the outside and uh the contractors have before they can back fill they've got to waterproof the outside of the ICF the ICF is uh insulated concrete forms okay so basically a styrofoam outer and inner shell on the forms so they they all they got to do is basically take a peel and stick membrane and get it above grade you know 8 to 12 in above grade is lots and stick it to the wall and as well down and across the top of the footing to make a waterproof barrier so any any moisture in the soil outside can run down this surface and uh out and down into the weeping tile so then the weeping tile gathers any of that water the Weeping ties all the way around the perimeter of the footing and uh it gathers that that water and uh it goes into a sump pit inside in the basement which we'll show you after so basically I don't know what these are probably uh about 3ot pieces these membrane and uh they just stick them on overlap the seams the very top they've sealed it up here to keep you know just make sure you don't end up with a lip there eventually they'll be parging or whatever on the outside down to just below grade level here okay so they're above grade kind of see the grade over here and they stick these membrane sheets on overlap the seams right here and then down onto the bottom of the footing then the moisture runs down the wall and into the uh weeping tile the weeping tile is basically a 4-in plastic uh perforated tubing that runs around the perimeter it's set so the bottom edge of it basically at the bottom edge of the footing height uh we've got a minimum 8 in footing here so you can see I've got about 5 in or 4 Ines here of of concrete above the footing or above the uh perforated pipe and then that pipe goes inside under once it gets around in our case over in this other Corner over here it has to get enough then to get underneath the footing and inside and then connected to and uh put in a sump pit where it can be any moisture can be gathered up and pumped back out so uh I think that's about all I can show you on that so we'll go and take a look inside and see what it looks like in there I just wanted to give you a quick uh look at the installed sump pit the uh basement contractor had installed the weeping tile all the way around the perimeter of the footing and then they brought it in underneath the footing to the inside so it could be tied into this Basin here so their their uh tile came in under the footing over in this area and then I turned a kind of a sweep to the to the tubing and then I hooked this piece that isn't perforated from there to the Basin of course after before I did all that I had to dig the hole get the Basin set and everything normally you you want the Basin to be up you know close to the top of your floor but if I would have done that my floor levels up here I would have lost a you know a foot of depth on my base on what my basin could hold because of uh the height of the weeping tile so I'm going to use this sleeve it was just a fiberglass sleeve that had kicking around and I'm going to set it on here this will be up to the height of the basement floor the contractors can pull it up and set it as they pour and that will leave me you know uh step down into the Basin there's a lid that locks on and uh there on the lid there's spots where you can cut out here for different uh pipes or pumps or whatever are sticking out of the lid so so I'll just give you a little closer look I'll bring the camera in here so you can see what you're doing now when you dig this this sump and go to get it installed it's nice to put just a little bit of uh sand in the bottom that way you can find tune your height and it supports the bottom of the sump well and then what I do is I like to stand right in it and back fill around it and get that sand and rock and gravel down right around it so it fills in well if you don't stand on it it just moves around on you and uh uh just isn't going to end up being in the right place especially if it's critical for your height if yours is up actually at your basement height then uh you're definitely going to have issues after okay so as we get down right down in here you can see there's a there's a block over on these sumps there's all different ones but this one has basically a uh a nose or whatever a hub here that you cut the end out of here's the inside of the one on the other side okay and then your tubing just sticks through there okay and you can see how the lid here drop on and then uh actually lock in try to keep kids and pets and stuff out of it a little bit hard to get back out after it's easier once you have some finger holes or any kind of hole in there but so then our our tube here we've just got a slight grade to it from where it came in over here and here you can actually see the this is the end of the uh weeping tile that the contractor installed and there's a fitting in between there to join the two uh and this is the new so this is perforated this one in my case I just used a solid pipe with no per perforations in it I had to throw a bit of rock here on it just to keep it down cuz it wanted to kind of rise up so uh I will back fill this all with rock the rock rock is going to come right up the right on Rock right to my footing height and my 4in floors is on top of that okay so and this is what it looks like once the sleeve will be dropped down around it so the sleeve will sit in here and I'll have a little bit of space around there now I'll I'll probably come later and uh throw some uh concrete or or some Gro or something around there just to to seal it up uh there will be there will be poly taped to the edges of this all the way around little kind come out and then when the uh guys come to do the floor before they lay the re rebar they'll be putting poly all down and they'll they can seal to that and that's just to uh try to help keep any raon gases that might be coming up through the uh raon Rock and ground from getting into the into the cabin I'm going to fill this in and that's it oh so here you can see once I've got a I'm not completely back filled I'm a little short on gravel but you can see the space down in there and if you noticed when I put the poly in there I taped it to the to the uh pit to The Container as well as taping the seams and then uh like I said when the concrete guys come they'll just fold this down finish taping and tape their sheet that they put on the entire floor to that okay so I'm all finished up on that uh was like I said it wasn't so much about how to install it but you know kind of the what you should see when it is installed uh there's not a lot to it just making sure you get connected well to the coming in uh uh weeping tile system get your pump at or your uh pit at the right level and you're good good to go thanks a lot for watching make sure you subscribe and like the videohi Shannon here back from house improvements.com and we're back out at the cabin build and I just wanted to show you the waterproofing on the outside of the ICF uh basement and as well as the weeping tile uh has also been installed around the outside and uh the contractors have before they can back fill they've got to waterproof the outside of the ICF the ICF is uh insulated concrete forms okay so basically a styrofoam outer and inner shell on the forms so they they all they got to do is basically take a peel and stick membrane and get it above grade you know 8 to 12 in above grade is lots and stick it to the wall and as well down and across the top of the footing to make a waterproof barrier so any any moisture in the soil outside can run down this surface and uh out and down into the weeping tile so then the weeping tile gathers any of that water the Weeping ties all the way around the perimeter of the footing and uh it gathers that that water and uh it goes into a sump pit inside in the basement which we'll show you after so basically I don't know what these are probably uh about 3ot pieces these membrane and uh they just stick them on overlap the seams the very top they've sealed it up here to keep you know just make sure you don't end up with a lip there eventually they'll be parging or whatever on the outside down to just below grade level here okay so they're above grade kind of see the grade over here and they stick these membrane sheets on overlap the seams right here and then down onto the bottom of the footing then the moisture runs down the wall and into the uh weeping tile the weeping tile is basically a 4-in plastic uh perforated tubing that runs around the perimeter it's set so the bottom edge of it basically at the bottom edge of the footing height uh we've got a minimum 8 in footing here so you can see I've got about 5 in or 4 Ines here of of concrete above the footing or above the uh perforated pipe and then that pipe goes inside under once it gets around in our case over in this other Corner over here it has to get enough then to get underneath the footing and inside and then connected to and uh put in a sump pit where it can be any moisture can be gathered up and pumped back out so uh I think that's about all I can show you on that so we'll go and take a look inside and see what it looks like in there I just wanted to give you a quick uh look at the installed sump pit the uh basement contractor had installed the weeping tile all the way around the perimeter of the footing and then they brought it in underneath the footing to the inside so it could be tied into this Basin here so their their uh tile came in under the footing over in this area and then I turned a kind of a sweep to the to the tubing and then I hooked this piece that isn't perforated from there to the Basin of course after before I did all that I had to dig the hole get the Basin set and everything normally you you want the Basin to be up you know close to the top of your floor but if I would have done that my floor levels up here I would have lost a you know a foot of depth on my base on what my basin could hold because of uh the height of the weeping tile so I'm going to use this sleeve it was just a fiberglass sleeve that had kicking around and I'm going to set it on here this will be up to the height of the basement floor the contractors can pull it up and set it as they pour and that will leave me you know uh step down into the Basin there's a lid that locks on and uh there on the lid there's spots where you can cut out here for different uh pipes or pumps or whatever are sticking out of the lid so so I'll just give you a little closer look I'll bring the camera in here so you can see what you're doing now when you dig this this sump and go to get it installed it's nice to put just a little bit of uh sand in the bottom that way you can find tune your height and it supports the bottom of the sump well and then what I do is I like to stand right in it and back fill around it and get that sand and rock and gravel down right around it so it fills in well if you don't stand on it it just moves around on you and uh uh just isn't going to end up being in the right place especially if it's critical for your height if yours is up actually at your basement height then uh you're definitely going to have issues after okay so as we get down right down in here you can see there's a there's a block over on these sumps there's all different ones but this one has basically a uh a nose or whatever a hub here that you cut the end out of here's the inside of the one on the other side okay and then your tubing just sticks through there okay and you can see how the lid here drop on and then uh actually lock in try to keep kids and pets and stuff out of it a little bit hard to get back out after it's easier once you have some finger holes or any kind of hole in there but so then our our tube here we've just got a slight grade to it from where it came in over here and here you can actually see the this is the end of the uh weeping tile that the contractor installed and there's a fitting in between there to join the two uh and this is the new so this is perforated this one in my case I just used a solid pipe with no per perforations in it I had to throw a bit of rock here on it just to keep it down cuz it wanted to kind of rise up so uh I will back fill this all with rock the rock rock is going to come right up the right on Rock right to my footing height and my 4in floors is on top of that okay so and this is what it looks like once the sleeve will be dropped down around it so the sleeve will sit in here and I'll have a little bit of space around there now I'll I'll probably come later and uh throw some uh concrete or or some Gro or something around there just to to seal it up uh there will be there will be poly taped to the edges of this all the way around little kind come out and then when the uh guys come to do the floor before they lay the re rebar they'll be putting poly all down and they'll they can seal to that and that's just to uh try to help keep any raon gases that might be coming up through the uh raon Rock and ground from getting into the into the cabin I'm going to fill this in and that's it oh so here you can see once I've got a I'm not completely back filled I'm a little short on gravel but you can see the space down in there and if you noticed when I put the poly in there I taped it to the to the uh pit to The Container as well as taping the seams and then uh like I said when the concrete guys come they'll just fold this down finish taping and tape their sheet that they put on the entire floor to that okay so I'm all finished up on that uh was like I said it wasn't so much about how to install it but you know kind of the what you should see when it is installed uh there's not a lot to it just making sure you get connected well to the coming in uh uh weeping tile system get your pump at or your uh pit at the right level and you're good good to go thanks a lot for watching make sure you subscribe and like the video\n"