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Mark the necessary holes and used my rotary tool to create them after I secured the driver board with bolts and nuts to the plates. I marked the position of the signal input cut out on my left wall piece, since I'm already working on this wall piece. I also added the marking for my slide switch which will later cut the power to the goose converter then I grabbed five 10 millimeter long push buttons and my right wall piece to mark a nice spot for each of them. I also added two more markings for red and green five millimeter LED which will later tell me the charging state of my batteries. Lastly, on this wall a rather imprecise marking for my charger board which I instantly use to create a nice cutout which embeds my micro USB port with PCB inside.

Now we can move on to the fun part which consists of drilling all the and using my scroll saw to make the square cutouts after I made sure that the push buttons LEDs and slides which fit it perfectly. I only had to make one improvements by lodging the cutout for the HDMI inputs then I positioned my other necessary ports on the back plate and mark the holes for each of them afterwards. I used my rotary tool again to drill the holes and now I can build the case temporarily by linking everything together with small drops of hot glue. I did this to keep the position of the front and back plate stable while I drill the pilot holes three millimeter from the edges for those little screws with a diameter of 3 millimeter and the length of 15 millimeter but please be careful because this is the most dangerous step since the holes must be very close to the middle of the wall pieces otherwise it can happen that the MDF will split.

Then I also created a little indentation so that the small screws can sit a bit more flush with the surface but not completely. Now it is finally time to use wood glue and the small screws to secure the top and bottom wall piece to the front plate afterwards the left and right wall pieces receive the glue treatments and got pushed into place and secure it with clamps during the two hours the glue needs to harden.

I already removed the LED and all the buttons from the controller board and also the charging status LEDs from the TP4056 board then I remove the small screws from the front plates and went outside to spray-paint my case with three layers of coating and just as a tip to myself it would be smart to remove the excess glue with sanding paper before spray-painting the whole case otherwise it looks like this.

We are almost done with the mechanical bits so let's finish it already by securing the driver board boost converter and controller board with bolts and nuts then I hot-glued my batteries directly to the plates and also use hot glue to secure the main LCD the battery charger circuits the charging LED and all of the push buttons and lastly I secured my slide switch who have screws.

Okay we are at the finish line only the wiring is left but it's very similar to what I already described in part 1 the only difference is this flexible speaker wire which I used to connect the charger circuit outputs to my main switch which then connects to the input of the boost circuit the output of the boost converter gets soldered to the driver board and the power wiring is done afterwards I connected the anode of the LEDs together and sold a thin flexible wire to each pin. The common anode connects to both metal pads and the green cathode goes to the right pads and the red capo to the left pads after I did a small test whether the new LEDs work properly I soldered one wire to each side of the new push buttons those wires then simply connect to the main controller board in any order you fingers Pleasant.

And after I tidied up the wire ring with zip ties I simply reconnected the LCD and controller board to the driver board and we are done but don't worry if you miss the step during the wiring there are better pictures on Instructables. After I close the whole unit with the small screws it was time to use it and all I can say at the end is that it was a good idea to build it if you liked this video then please don't forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next time

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enlet's start the second part of a lot of rust treatment for the four wall pieces this way they can sit flush on the back and front plate without leaving a gap and it's also a good idea to bring them all to the same height afterwards I did the same thing with the remaining parts to make them look like a proper square then I grabbed my adapter which will allow me to secure my screen to a mini tripods or mini ball head for my camera I mark the exact center of my bottom wall piece and measure the necessary hole diameter afterwards I drilled the hole and made sure that it is a tight fit now I positioned my adapter on top and marked where I needed to create an indentation so that the bold of the tripods can actually reach the Fred once the tripods can hold the adapter nicely you may notice that there is a bit of extra plastic hanging over the sides that's the case for helpful ross afterwards we can finally add plenty of hot glue to seal the deal next I searched for a nice spot for my driver board in the bottom left corner of the back plates mark the necessary holes and used my rotary tool to create them after I secured the driver board with bolts and nuts to the plates I marked the position of the signal input cut out on my left wall piece and since I'm already working on this wall piece I also added the marking for my slide switch which will later cut the power to the goose converter then I grabbed five ten millimeter long push buttons and my right wall piece to mark a nice spot for each of them and I also added two more markings for red and green five millimeter LED which will later tell me the charging state of my batteries and lastly on this wall a rather imprecise marking for my charger board which I instantly use to create a nice cutout which embeds my micro USB port with PCB inside now we can move on to the fun part which consists of drilling all the and using my scroll saw to make the square cutouts after I made sure that the push buttons LEDs and slides which fit it perfectly I only had to make one improvements by lodging the cutout for the HDMI inputs then I positioned my other necessary ports on the back plate and mark the holes for each of them afterwards I used my rotary tool again to drill the holes and now I can build the case temporarily by linking everything together with small drops of hot glue I did this to keep the position of the front and back plate stable while I drill the pilot holes three millimeter from the edges for those little screws with a diameter of 3 millimeter and the length of 15 millimeter but please be careful because this is the most dangerous step since the holes must be very close to the middle of the wall pieces otherwise it can happen that the MDF will split then I also created a little indentation so that the small screws can sit a bit more flush with the surface but not completely now it is finally time to use wood glue and the small screws to secure the top and bottom wall piece to the front plate afterwards the left and right wall pieces receive the glue treatments and got pushed into place and secure it with clamps during the two hours the glue needs to harden I already removed the LED and all the buttons from the controller board and also the charging status LEDs from the TP 4056 board then I remove the small screws from the front plates and went outside to spray-paint my case with three layers of coating and just as a tip to myself it would be smart to remove the excess glue with sanding paper before spray-painting the whole case otherwise it looks like this we are almost done with the mechanical bulls so let's finish it already by securing the driver board boost converter and controller board with bolts and nuts then I hot-glued my batteries directly to the plates and also use hot glue to secure the main LCD the battery charger circuits the charging LED and all of the push buttons and lastly I secured my slide switch who have screws okay we are at the finish line only the wiring is left but it's very similar to what I already described in part 1 the only difference is this flexible speaker wire which I used to connect the charger circuit outputs to my main switch which then connects to the input of the boost circuit the output of the boost converter gets soldered to the driver board and the power wiring is done afterwards I connected the anode of the LEDs together and sold a thin flexible wire to each pin the common anode connects to both metal pads and the green cathode goes to the right pads and the red capo to the left pads after I did a small test whether the new LEDs work properly i soldered one wire to each side of the new push buttons those wires then simply connect to the main controller board in any order you fingers Pleasant and after I tidied up the wire ring with zip ties I simply reconnected the LCD and controller board to the driver board and we are done but don't worry if you miss the step during the wiring there are better pictures on Instructables after I close the whole unit with the small screws it was time to use it and all I can say at the end is that it was a good idea to build it if you liked this video then please don't forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next timelet's start the second part of a lot of rust treatment for the four wall pieces this way they can sit flush on the back and front plate without leaving a gap and it's also a good idea to bring them all to the same height afterwards I did the same thing with the remaining parts to make them look like a proper square then I grabbed my adapter which will allow me to secure my screen to a mini tripods or mini ball head for my camera I mark the exact center of my bottom wall piece and measure the necessary hole diameter afterwards I drilled the hole and made sure that it is a tight fit now I positioned my adapter on top and marked where I needed to create an indentation so that the bold of the tripods can actually reach the Fred once the tripods can hold the adapter nicely you may notice that there is a bit of extra plastic hanging over the sides that's the case for helpful ross afterwards we can finally add plenty of hot glue to seal the deal next I searched for a nice spot for my driver board in the bottom left corner of the back plates mark the necessary holes and used my rotary tool to create them after I secured the driver board with bolts and nuts to the plates I marked the position of the signal input cut out on my left wall piece and since I'm already working on this wall piece I also added the marking for my slide switch which will later cut the power to the goose converter then I grabbed five ten millimeter long push buttons and my right wall piece to mark a nice spot for each of them and I also added two more markings for red and green five millimeter LED which will later tell me the charging state of my batteries and lastly on this wall a rather imprecise marking for my charger board which I instantly use to create a nice cutout which embeds my micro USB port with PCB inside now we can move on to the fun part which consists of drilling all the and using my scroll saw to make the square cutouts after I made sure that the push buttons LEDs and slides which fit it perfectly I only had to make one improvements by lodging the cutout for the HDMI inputs then I positioned my other necessary ports on the back plate and mark the holes for each of them afterwards I used my rotary tool again to drill the holes and now I can build the case temporarily by linking everything together with small drops of hot glue I did this to keep the position of the front and back plate stable while I drill the pilot holes three millimeter from the edges for those little screws with a diameter of 3 millimeter and the length of 15 millimeter but please be careful because this is the most dangerous step since the holes must be very close to the middle of the wall pieces otherwise it can happen that the MDF will split then I also created a little indentation so that the small screws can sit a bit more flush with the surface but not completely now it is finally time to use wood glue and the small screws to secure the top and bottom wall piece to the front plate afterwards the left and right wall pieces receive the glue treatments and got pushed into place and secure it with clamps during the two hours the glue needs to harden I already removed the LED and all the buttons from the controller board and also the charging status LEDs from the TP 4056 board then I remove the small screws from the front plates and went outside to spray-paint my case with three layers of coating and just as a tip to myself it would be smart to remove the excess glue with sanding paper before spray-painting the whole case otherwise it looks like this we are almost done with the mechanical bulls so let's finish it already by securing the driver board boost converter and controller board with bolts and nuts then I hot-glued my batteries directly to the plates and also use hot glue to secure the main LCD the battery charger circuits the charging LED and all of the push buttons and lastly I secured my slide switch who have screws okay we are at the finish line only the wiring is left but it's very similar to what I already described in part 1 the only difference is this flexible speaker wire which I used to connect the charger circuit outputs to my main switch which then connects to the input of the boost circuit the output of the boost converter gets soldered to the driver board and the power wiring is done afterwards I connected the anode of the LEDs together and sold a thin flexible wire to each pin the common anode connects to both metal pads and the green cathode goes to the right pads and the red capo to the left pads after I did a small test whether the new LEDs work properly i soldered one wire to each side of the new push buttons those wires then simply connect to the main controller board in any order you fingers Pleasant and after I tidied up the wire ring with zip ties I simply reconnected the LCD and controller board to the driver board and we are done but don't worry if you miss the step during the wiring there are better pictures on Instructables after I close the whole unit with the small screws it was time to use it and all I can say at the end is that it was a good idea to build it if you liked this video then please don't forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next time