The process of wiring up a LED light bar for off-road use involves several steps that require attention to detail and a basic understanding of electrical systems. The first step is to locate the relay box, which typically houses the fuse and switch that control the flow of power to the light bar. In this case, we have already installed the fuse and switch for the light bar, but we need to connect it to the rest of the wiring system.

The next step is to route the wire through the relay box and into the electrical harness. This requires careful planning and attention to detail to ensure that all the wires are properly connected and secured. In this case, we have used zip ties to keep the wires organized and out of sight. The ground wire needs to be attached to a secure point on the vehicle, such as the chassis or a bolt on the frame.

Once the wiring is complete, it's time to mount the relay box in a location that protects it from damage and keeps it cool. In this case, we have chosen a spot near the steering column where the relay box can be secured with a nut and keep the electrical system organized.

The final step in completing the wiring job is to connect the ground wire to the battery post. This requires careful attention to detail to ensure that the connection is secure and won't cause any issues down the road. Once this is complete, we can test the system by connecting the power wires to the positive battery post and checking that everything is working as expected.

In the end, our LED light bar is now properly wired and ready for use on the trails. With its bright LED lights and reliable electrical system, it's perfect for navigating rough terrain or finding deer in the woods. We also took some extra steps to keep the wiring organized and secure, such as using zip ties to keep everything tidy.

As we take our truck out onto the trail, we can see just how effective this light bar is at illuminating our path. The bright LED lights cut through the darkness, allowing us to see every rock and pothole in our way. We can also see that the light bar's unique mounting system keeps it securely fastened to the hood of the truck, even when driving over rough terrain.

Overall, this project has shown just how much attention goes into wiring up a LED light bar for off-road use. With its reliable electrical system and bright LED lights, this light bar is perfect for anyone who spends time on the trails or needs a reliable source of light in low-light conditions.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhey guys chrisfix here today we're finishing up project night light with episode 3 and in this episode we're gonna wire the light bar so we could finally see how this light looks at night on the trail this is episode 3 so if you haven't watched episode 1 or 2 those episodes show how I built the rack that supports the light bar I use pretty basic and affordable tools and build the light bar rack from a few pieces of steel I'll leave the links to those episodes in the description now let's go get started and see what we need to wire the light bar although I'm wiring an LED light bar in this video this applies to pretty much any wiring for any lights that you're gonna put on your rig it could be fog lights it could be off-road lights it could be LED could be halogen so in front of you here is all the stuff you'll need this kit comes with a nice wiring harness the fuse already built in and it also comes with a nice switch so if you really wanted to you could wire this right to your battery you'd see they have everything set up for you wire it to the switch and wire it to the light and then you're good to go you don't really have to do much you drill a hole for the switch you run some wires and you're done but I like running relays for anything that draws a lot of power so the electrical current isn't flowing through the wires that are in the cabin of the car a relay is also a really good way to prevent voltage drop so you get as much voltage as possible to the light so I'll show you how to run a relay properly as with all my wiring videos I always make a diagram you can see this is the front of the truck this is the back this is kind of like the bed it's actually we're facing like this and it's a map view so we're looking on top of the truck the batteries in the front left corner you can see I have a relay running there of the light bar right up here so the relay is going to be the center of everything we're gonna have our switch which triggers the relay we have our power coming for the battery that goes through the relay and then the relay feeds the power to the LED light bar the relay is also grounded I'm gonna have a video on how a relay works and what's inside of the relay but for now let me explain it real quick so what this diagram represents is this relay you can see what this is real life there's four pins and they're all labeled 87-85 30 and 86 so I labeled it here the same thing now what a relay is it's basically a switch it's like an on/off switch instead of turning it on and off from here and like flipping a switch you turn it on and off by running either a car through it or not running a current through it so when there's electricity going through it it's on when you shut the electricity off it's off so to get that electricity you don't need a lot you just need milliamps of electricity which is nothing so we're going to tap into the fuse box which is going to be connected to a switch which is going to go to 86 so when you get this switch and you flick it to the on position it's gonna allow current to go into the relay the relay is gonna click on and when the relay clicks on its gonna allow power to go to the LED light bar now that power is coming straight into number 30 right here it's gonna be fused and it's coming from the battery now the whole relay is grounded at 85 that's pretty simple and then at 87 that's where you get your power to the light bar and then the light bar has to be grounded itself pretty simple setup and I always tell you guys whenever you do wiring just draw it out it'll make it so much easier you can label whatever you want any parts that you might need any lengths of wire that you might need any of that now if you watch my project police interceptor video you'd be familiar with this wire gauge diagram over here it gives you the length of the wire and up top here it gives you the amperage that the wire is gonna handle and this is how you correctly pick out what gauge wire you're gonna use I'll leave a link to this chart in the description just in case you buy a light bar or something that doesn't come with the correct gauge wiring you'll have something to reference this is a 42 inch light bar we're gonna be drawing a maximum of 15 amps so then we go to our chart so we're gonna be running about 15 feet of wire we're running 15 amps maximum so we go to 15 and 15 amps and we meet right in the middle and that's where it says 10 gauge wiring so we'll need to run 10 gauge wiring I'm good just real quickly going through this nice and fast got our wiring switch we got a fuse tap different crimps and stuff to splice wire heat gun we have this plastic tubing to run wires into the protective we have our relay a multimeter we have some wire for the ground wire for the switch and then different like Buck connectors and stuff I don't know what we're gonna need heat shrink and that's it we get our light bar wired up so let's begin the first thing I want to do is find a place for the relay so we want to find a nice place to put this and you can see all my other wiring my off-road lights reverse lights right over here so I'm thinking that we put this something like that we could turn it way or another but we could bolt it in right here it keeps it nice and tidy it keeps it in place this is a very dry area it's away from the heat of everything so I think that's a good place for our relay so anytime you're working on electronics the first step is always disconnect the negative battery terminal next thing to do is lay the wiring harness out so you can see what you're working with we're gonna run the wires from the light down under the truck along the frame to the battery the wires are going to be run through flexible plastic tubing and this will protect the wires and prevent them from chafing let's go check out the wiring at the light bar the wiring harness comes out at a light bar here and I have a thick rubber tube to deter people from trying to cut the harness coming out of the light it runs out to the connector right here and this will end up connecting to the wiring harness we're installing so here's our wiring harness here's our connector we're gonna go connect to the light bar this is really simple the wiring harness just plugs right into the light bar connector just like that now for the exposed wires we're going to get our plastic tubing and push the wires into the tubing the tube has a split in it and you get the wires and push it into the split just like that do this for the whole length of wire good and it should look just like this so we have the wires in the loom and eventually it's gonna get zip tied to the light bar right here but before we zip tie anything let's go run the wires between the cab and the bed down under the truck along the frame into the engine compartment so I'm under the truck looking towards the rear and you can see the wiring harness is right here this is the frame of the truck and we want to go to the other side of the frame rail and you can see there's already wires running here this is the harness I ran from my reverse lights and this is the harness for the factory wiring so we're gonna run our light bar harness in the same place here's our wire coming down from the light bar and we're gonna run it along this frame rail I'm pulling all the wire down from the top all right we have the harness pulled down and we're gonna run it along the frame all the way down to the front the car just follow the frame tuck this in behind here and then on the other side keep running it along the frame you can see the other wiring harness I ran which goes through the hole in the frame and then it comes out of the hole and runs to the battery after pulling it all the way through we'll grab the wire and run it up here come up here you'd see it right down there alright so we have just enough wire which is perfect so if we look at our wiring diagram the top post goes to the light bar so we'll connect that now number 87 right here grab the red power wire for the light bar and plug it in just like that so now the power to the light bar is done the black wire coming from the light bar is a ground and we'll ground that later but the next step is to wire the switch to the relay so we're gonna go from the fuse box through the switch to post 86 on the relay so let's go do that now okay now we're working in the interior of the car it might be a good idea to wash your hands so you don't get your greasy hands all over the interior we're gonna be using a fuse tab and what this does is it fits right into the fuse slot and we could actually get power from this so we're gonna get power from this run it to our on/off switch which goes to the relay since the relay is granted we don't have to worry about a ground here so let's go check out the fuse box in my truck the fuse box is located right here and there's a bunch of open slots as you can see but out of all these open slots which one has power and which one doesn't because not every fuse is powered when the car is off and I want to be able to turn the light bar on when the trucks off now we have to put the negative terminal back on so we get juice to the battery so we can see which one of those fuses has power to it now we don't have anything hooked up so it's okay to just put this back on so now we'll get our multimeter we have it set up to DC volts it's on 20 and what you're gonna do you're going to go to an open few slot and there are two contacts in there so touch one lead to one side of the slot and take the other lead and touch the other side it doesn't matter the order of your leads when both leads are in there check the reading and as you can see we have no voltage try this one here nope that doesn't give us power try down here oh here we go okay so if we look here number 17 is the fuse slot we want to tap now we're gonna add our tap and that simply slides in just like this so I'm actually going to take this out for now so we could run the wires and I should also explain where I'm gonna put the switch now the fuse tap wire is going to run down here through the door harness here and I want to mount the switch right on here and the wire coming from the switch will go down here through this down to our relay in the engine compartment so the door panel right here is where I want to mount the switch now to figure out where I want to put it I'm gonna have to take this off but I'm pretty sure I'm gonna put it like right about here it's going to sit sideways so when you're driving you just flip it on or flip it off we know the location we're gonna put our switch so now we know how much wire we're going to need to run from our fuse box so from our tap at the fuse box we're gonna have a wire which is gonna run through the door panel to here so that's our first length that's the short length of wire and then here's a long wire which is going all the way to the engine apartment speaking of engine let's remove the negative battery cable again so we don't forget and now let's connect the wire to the fuse tap that'll go to the switch we're going to strip the wire and get our crimpers crimp that right in place and test it just give it a tug to make sure it's not going anywhere and that's solid good now we have a good connection there let's go take off the door panel and run this wire now in order to run the wires through this we need to take off this panel right here now this panel has one of these clips right here so I'm going to just pop the clip using one of these special panel clip pliers so I don't break it you can see keeps it in good shape so I could reuse it good now let's remove the door panel so this is really easy to take off two screws it's one to pull from the bottom so I thought we'd be able to get into here and kind of go through here I peeled this back but this actually goes behind this piece of metal right here so I'm gonna have to do is I'm gonna have to take this whole door panel off luckily for my Ford Ranger Mazda be 3000 this thing is simple to get off and the first thing to do is remove the screw right here good now let's get this off and since I have crank windows you have to pop this backwards just like that and that gives you access to a Torx this is a t20 Torx good now this should just pop right out might need a little wiggle and there's one more screw right down here good now this simply lifts up and out you might have to give it a little wiggle but it lifts right out now right away I see these two holes right here where we could run the wires so we could run the wires through the door up to the hole across the door to the switch which will be right here now this hole here is pretty sharp so we're gonna have to use a grommet to prevent the wires from getting frayed it just presses right in and you might need to use a screwdriver if it's tight and that clicks right in just like that to not have a metal wire with a little loop at the end here and what this is gonna do is it's gonna help me snake this into here so I could pull the wires through so we're gonna go in through here okay okay so now we have the metal wire going in and coming out okay now that the snake is through I'm gonna grab my two wires I need to make sure that I have a wire going to the fuse tap and a wire that runs to the relay so you have two wires going to the switch now the problem is we're gonna be running the fuse tab and since we're pulling it towards the fuse box this would have to go in here and well that's not gonna fit so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna run another wire and once I get this other wire through I'm going to attach the end of my fuse wire and then pull the end of the fuse wire back through the opposite way you'll see in a second the other thing is I'm planning on running more switches for different things I have bed lights that have reverse lights I'm hoping to get alley lights which are sideways lights that'll go onto the light bar that's kind of why I designed this right here I'm hoping I could get an alley light on this side and an alley light on the other side facing outwards so with those future plans in mind I'm gonna run eight wires which is enough wiring for four switches I'm gonna open up my snake here so I could fit the wires in there just like so crimp down on that snake good and then I'm just going to tape up the ends here so that they don't get caught on anything as I try to snake it through okay we're ready to snake this through okay you got it coming out the bottom now I'm gonna run the snake in through here which will go up here and it'll come out here so I could go run these wires up into the fuse box so it's right there perfect now we could push this back into place good pull this through once it's all the way through we could disconnect our snake here and remove the wires well remember I was saying before about running this through we couldn't get it through so we have that extra wire that we ran in here so I'm going to grab the end of the fuse wire and tape it to this wire just like so now I'm gonna grab this wire which is connected to the fuse wire now I'm gonna pull it through tada nice and simple so now we ran our fuse wire below the fuse box there's a grommet in there but I want to add some plastic tubing to protect the wires from any sharp metal edges you just need a short length just like that okay so it goes from spaghetti to a nice neat package we don't want to have spaghetti save that for dinner and now I'm gonna tuck this right in here until I wire up the other switches now let's get our fuse tap and that has to be run up there to the fuse box and remember use your tools to make your life easier you might as well just use that snake you've been using then we could attach our fuse and pull it up to the fuse box using the snake and there we go now we could easily connect a few step to number 17 beautiful now we have to get the fused wire here and connect it to the switches as well as connect the wire from the switch to the relay but first let's go install the switch in the door panel so we're almost done with the hardest part at least this is the hardest part in my opinion running the switch is kind of a pain you have to drill into stuff I hate drilling into stuff it's such a permanent thing to do you know you could ruin your panel if you don't do it right so I want the switch to be somewhere up here I think it would look good anywhere right over here and there's plenty of room in the back here because this kind of curls so there'll be plenty of room to get the switch in there so how this switch works I'm going to peel this back you can see there's a little lip the end you can see there's these plastic springs that push outwards and below that is the base of the switch which is skinnier than the springs and it's about 18 millimeters the lip at the end is about 22 millimeters so we're gonna have to drill a hole that's larger than 18 millimeters but smaller than 22 millimeters so I'm going to use this 19 millimeter which is also 3/4 inches hole saw bit before we use this big hole saw bit I'm gonna use a small bit to drill a pilot hole so the larger bit doesn't bounce around and it actually goes where we want it to go okay so we said right here's a good spot this looks good now I'm just gonna use a dremel to clean up the hole a little bit beautiful okay the whole came out really nice let's go push the switch in make sure you orient it the way you want it to go that looks good right there let's push there we go that's all it takes I should also mention that you should run a ground wire I should have ran it with these but I forgot all about it the ground wires for your switches so you could have your switches light up so if you want your switches to light up make sure you run a ground wire we have our ground wire coming down and you can see there's another ground wire here so we're gonna use that ground for our wire as well and to do that we're gonna strip the end of the wire and use an eyelet so just strip the wire crimp the eyelet on unscrew the ground attach our ground screw the ground back in and there we go we have our ground wire all set up now and we have all our wires ready to go so let's put the door panel back on now I'm going to just hang this back up without the piece in these clips gonna slide in at the bottom and then you press the panel down now we could quickly screw in the panel do the bottom one first screwing this middle screw here now we could put the window crank on just like that and now the last thing to go on is our door handle the black trim and you can see has our switch and I also added switches here for all the lights that I plan on using one's gonna be for reverse lights one is hopefully going to be for alley lights in the future and this one's for bed lights and then this is for the light bar so now before we put this on let's wire them up so I'm going to show you how to wire the switch that comes with the light the same thing applies to all these switches to on the back of the switch here you can see there's a one gold and then there's two silver prongs the gold prong is the ground that's how you get the light on the switch so we're gonna ground that out and for the other two silver prongs all you need to do is attach a fuse tap wire and the wire going to the relay now the way I'm wiring this is I'm jumping the grounds so for the ground on each switch I'm jumping over and I'm gonna jump it over to the ground up here and then attach that ground right here to the ground that goes to the car so this ground is getting jumped just like that so we're gonna crimp these two together so here's the wire from our door and here's the wire from our switches put them together crimp that okay that looks great I'm gonna slide the heat shrink right over this so we don't want the metal on this to be exposed okay so that looks good now let's connect it to the ground post on the switch now we have our two red wires the strip one is the one that's going to go to our relay in the engine compartment and the non strip one is the one that comes from our power source the fuse right over there and to connect them to our switches we're going to use these two connectors they just crimp right on good so since that's going to the relay we're going to put that on the bottom one good strip this wire real quick there are other connector crimp that down good and that's going to connect right into the middle because that's the one that's getting the power from the fuse just like that so we got our ground for the light we got our power in and power out I'm gonna quickly wire these up for my other lights but you guys don't need to see that that's just gonna be using all this stuff alright everything's all wired up all my switches are good to go make sure the wiring harnesses are out of the way after you ensure all your wires are not in the way click it in okay I'll get these final screws in secure the door in place and we're done with the switch okay now let's add the fuse to the fuse tap I'm going to use a 7.5 amp fuse because that's the smallest one I have right now but when I get a chance I'll switch that to a 5 amp fuse now we could close this up good now let's route the wire from the switch to the relay if we go under here we're just looking for a grommet that passes through the firewall and here's where I run wires from my other lights so I'll use this spot to run my wire through so what I'm going to do is I'm going to route the wire up and away from the emergency brake brake pedal and gas pedal and then we need to get it through the grommet so just push it through on this side on the engine bay side the grommet is located right down here grab the wire and pull it through I want to route this wire with the rest of the wires go run it down here through here and it comes out right here now we're going to go crimp this on make sure you crimp it so it's tight and secure so we're at the last steps here so 87 goes to the light bar we already have that done right here so our fuse and switch go to 86 86 is right there and here's our wire that goes to the switch we'll connect that good now we have our positive fused wire which goes to 30 and we have our grounds which goes to 85 so here's our positive fused wire which goes to 30 right down here and then here's our ground wire which goes to the last remaining spot 85 right there so our relay is set the light bar comes with a fuse already this has a 20 amp fuse in it since the light draws 15 amps and the last thing we have is the ground here which was going to connect directly to the battery but unfortunately this is the factory wiring harness and it just misses the post here it's so close so instead we're gonna grind it to a chassis the chassis ground is located right here so let's ground the light bar right now put the ground wire on the boat screw it all the way in good okay now let's mount the relay we're gonna put it right here so it's out of the way and it also stayed dry plus there's a stud so we can use a nut to secure the relay okay now let's finish getting these last two wires in our relay ground wire is going to go to the battery post so let me get that in the correct spot perfect our power wires going to the positive battery post connect that on to there and tighten the nut down to secure it good we have one last thing we need to do and that's to connect the ground wire so let's first connect the ground good now we're gonna get our ground slide it on there like that add another nut to secure it and tighten that up okay now we're ready to try everything out now the moment of truth beautiful works perfect and now that's what I call a job well done I cannot wait to see this on the trail tonight so just some finishing touches that I did I pretty much zip-tied the wiring harness all the way around and you can see it keeps it nice and neat and out of sight same for underneath the truck I just make sure that the zip ties hold the wiring harness in place and then under here you can see got zip tied right here run the cross got zip tied there and zip tied down there it just keeps the wires nice and neat also so they don't get stuck on moving parts such as the brake pedal okay and we are done that's how you properly wire an LED light bar or any off-road lights you could use the same process for wiring up these types of off-road lights the halogen lights spotlights pretty much any wiring job with a relay but specifically in this case lights so let's go for a ride and see how bright this LED light bar is okay so we're here on the trail using my low beams high beams and are you ready for the big unveiling of project night light boom go hit some trails this light is so bright it's ridiculous I can see the trails perfect which is awesome without it on you can't really see much what's going on but once I turn it on I can see all around me I get a really good idea of what I'm coming up - and it's not straining my eyes at all which is great you can see my hood has no reflection off of it that's because my light bar is mounted back a little bit the cutoff is actually you can kind of see the cutoff it's exactly at the hood it's right there and that's exactly where you want it I couldn't ask for any better place now you're not supposed to use these LED light bars on roads it's for off-road use only but on these back roads where there's nobody for miles and miles it really makes that much of a difference I mean check that out and you can see if there's any deer about to jump out in front of you and the good thing about the placement where I have my switch it's right next to the steering wheel I want to show it off boom it's off on turn on boom it's on and then here's high beams here's a night light so now you see where project night-light got its name as always hopefully this video is helpful but was remember to give it a thumbs up if you're not a subscriber hit that subscribe button for more project videos so I'll see you guys in the next video this concludes project nightlight now I'm off to go find the Jersey Devilhey guys chrisfix here today we're finishing up project night light with episode 3 and in this episode we're gonna wire the light bar so we could finally see how this light looks at night on the trail this is episode 3 so if you haven't watched episode 1 or 2 those episodes show how I built the rack that supports the light bar I use pretty basic and affordable tools and build the light bar rack from a few pieces of steel I'll leave the links to those episodes in the description now let's go get started and see what we need to wire the light bar although I'm wiring an LED light bar in this video this applies to pretty much any wiring for any lights that you're gonna put on your rig it could be fog lights it could be off-road lights it could be LED could be halogen so in front of you here is all the stuff you'll need this kit comes with a nice wiring harness the fuse already built in and it also comes with a nice switch so if you really wanted to you could wire this right to your battery you'd see they have everything set up for you wire it to the switch and wire it to the light and then you're good to go you don't really have to do much you drill a hole for the switch you run some wires and you're done but I like running relays for anything that draws a lot of power so the electrical current isn't flowing through the wires that are in the cabin of the car a relay is also a really good way to prevent voltage drop so you get as much voltage as possible to the light so I'll show you how to run a relay properly as with all my wiring videos I always make a diagram you can see this is the front of the truck this is the back this is kind of like the bed it's actually we're facing like this and it's a map view so we're looking on top of the truck the batteries in the front left corner you can see I have a relay running there of the light bar right up here so the relay is going to be the center of everything we're gonna have our switch which triggers the relay we have our power coming for the battery that goes through the relay and then the relay feeds the power to the LED light bar the relay is also grounded I'm gonna have a video on how a relay works and what's inside of the relay but for now let me explain it real quick so what this diagram represents is this relay you can see what this is real life there's four pins and they're all labeled 87-85 30 and 86 so I labeled it here the same thing now what a relay is it's basically a switch it's like an on/off switch instead of turning it on and off from here and like flipping a switch you turn it on and off by running either a car through it or not running a current through it so when there's electricity going through it it's on when you shut the electricity off it's off so to get that electricity you don't need a lot you just need milliamps of electricity which is nothing so we're going to tap into the fuse box which is going to be connected to a switch which is going to go to 86 so when you get this switch and you flick it to the on position it's gonna allow current to go into the relay the relay is gonna click on and when the relay clicks on its gonna allow power to go to the LED light bar now that power is coming straight into number 30 right here it's gonna be fused and it's coming from the battery now the whole relay is grounded at 85 that's pretty simple and then at 87 that's where you get your power to the light bar and then the light bar has to be grounded itself pretty simple setup and I always tell you guys whenever you do wiring just draw it out it'll make it so much easier you can label whatever you want any parts that you might need any lengths of wire that you might need any of that now if you watch my project police interceptor video you'd be familiar with this wire gauge diagram over here it gives you the length of the wire and up top here it gives you the amperage that the wire is gonna handle and this is how you correctly pick out what gauge wire you're gonna use I'll leave a link to this chart in the description just in case you buy a light bar or something that doesn't come with the correct gauge wiring you'll have something to reference this is a 42 inch light bar we're gonna be drawing a maximum of 15 amps so then we go to our chart so we're gonna be running about 15 feet of wire we're running 15 amps maximum so we go to 15 and 15 amps and we meet right in the middle and that's where it says 10 gauge wiring so we'll need to run 10 gauge wiring I'm good just real quickly going through this nice and fast got our wiring switch we got a fuse tap different crimps and stuff to splice wire heat gun we have this plastic tubing to run wires into the protective we have our relay a multimeter we have some wire for the ground wire for the switch and then different like Buck connectors and stuff I don't know what we're gonna need heat shrink and that's it we get our light bar wired up so let's begin the first thing I want to do is find a place for the relay so we want to find a nice place to put this and you can see all my other wiring my off-road lights reverse lights right over here so I'm thinking that we put this something like that we could turn it way or another but we could bolt it in right here it keeps it nice and tidy it keeps it in place this is a very dry area it's away from the heat of everything so I think that's a good place for our relay so anytime you're working on electronics the first step is always disconnect the negative battery terminal next thing to do is lay the wiring harness out so you can see what you're working with we're gonna run the wires from the light down under the truck along the frame to the battery the wires are going to be run through flexible plastic tubing and this will protect the wires and prevent them from chafing let's go check out the wiring at the light bar the wiring harness comes out at a light bar here and I have a thick rubber tube to deter people from trying to cut the harness coming out of the light it runs out to the connector right here and this will end up connecting to the wiring harness we're installing so here's our wiring harness here's our connector we're gonna go connect to the light bar this is really simple the wiring harness just plugs right into the light bar connector just like that now for the exposed wires we're going to get our plastic tubing and push the wires into the tubing the tube has a split in it and you get the wires and push it into the split just like that do this for the whole length of wire good and it should look just like this so we have the wires in the loom and eventually it's gonna get zip tied to the light bar right here but before we zip tie anything let's go run the wires between the cab and the bed down under the truck along the frame into the engine compartment so I'm under the truck looking towards the rear and you can see the wiring harness is right here this is the frame of the truck and we want to go to the other side of the frame rail and you can see there's already wires running here this is the harness I ran from my reverse lights and this is the harness for the factory wiring so we're gonna run our light bar harness in the same place here's our wire coming down from the light bar and we're gonna run it along this frame rail I'm pulling all the wire down from the top all right we have the harness pulled down and we're gonna run it along the frame all the way down to the front the car just follow the frame tuck this in behind here and then on the other side keep running it along the frame you can see the other wiring harness I ran which goes through the hole in the frame and then it comes out of the hole and runs to the battery after pulling it all the way through we'll grab the wire and run it up here come up here you'd see it right down there alright so we have just enough wire which is perfect so if we look at our wiring diagram the top post goes to the light bar so we'll connect that now number 87 right here grab the red power wire for the light bar and plug it in just like that so now the power to the light bar is done the black wire coming from the light bar is a ground and we'll ground that later but the next step is to wire the switch to the relay so we're gonna go from the fuse box through the switch to post 86 on the relay so let's go do that now okay now we're working in the interior of the car it might be a good idea to wash your hands so you don't get your greasy hands all over the interior we're gonna be using a fuse tab and what this does is it fits right into the fuse slot and we could actually get power from this so we're gonna get power from this run it to our on/off switch which goes to the relay since the relay is granted we don't have to worry about a ground here so let's go check out the fuse box in my truck the fuse box is located right here and there's a bunch of open slots as you can see but out of all these open slots which one has power and which one doesn't because not every fuse is powered when the car is off and I want to be able to turn the light bar on when the trucks off now we have to put the negative terminal back on so we get juice to the battery so we can see which one of those fuses has power to it now we don't have anything hooked up so it's okay to just put this back on so now we'll get our multimeter we have it set up to DC volts it's on 20 and what you're gonna do you're going to go to an open few slot and there are two contacts in there so touch one lead to one side of the slot and take the other lead and touch the other side it doesn't matter the order of your leads when both leads are in there check the reading and as you can see we have no voltage try this one here nope that doesn't give us power try down here oh here we go okay so if we look here number 17 is the fuse slot we want to tap now we're gonna add our tap and that simply slides in just like this so I'm actually going to take this out for now so we could run the wires and I should also explain where I'm gonna put the switch now the fuse tap wire is going to run down here through the door harness here and I want to mount the switch right on here and the wire coming from the switch will go down here through this down to our relay in the engine compartment so the door panel right here is where I want to mount the switch now to figure out where I want to put it I'm gonna have to take this off but I'm pretty sure I'm gonna put it like right about here it's going to sit sideways so when you're driving you just flip it on or flip it off we know the location we're gonna put our switch so now we know how much wire we're going to need to run from our fuse box so from our tap at the fuse box we're gonna have a wire which is gonna run through the door panel to here so that's our first length that's the short length of wire and then here's a long wire which is going all the way to the engine apartment speaking of engine let's remove the negative battery cable again so we don't forget and now let's connect the wire to the fuse tap that'll go to the switch we're going to strip the wire and get our crimpers crimp that right in place and test it just give it a tug to make sure it's not going anywhere and that's solid good now we have a good connection there let's go take off the door panel and run this wire now in order to run the wires through this we need to take off this panel right here now this panel has one of these clips right here so I'm going to just pop the clip using one of these special panel clip pliers so I don't break it you can see keeps it in good shape so I could reuse it good now let's remove the door panel so this is really easy to take off two screws it's one to pull from the bottom so I thought we'd be able to get into here and kind of go through here I peeled this back but this actually goes behind this piece of metal right here so I'm gonna have to do is I'm gonna have to take this whole door panel off luckily for my Ford Ranger Mazda be 3000 this thing is simple to get off and the first thing to do is remove the screw right here good now let's get this off and since I have crank windows you have to pop this backwards just like that and that gives you access to a Torx this is a t20 Torx good now this should just pop right out might need a little wiggle and there's one more screw right down here good now this simply lifts up and out you might have to give it a little wiggle but it lifts right out now right away I see these two holes right here where we could run the wires so we could run the wires through the door up to the hole across the door to the switch which will be right here now this hole here is pretty sharp so we're gonna have to use a grommet to prevent the wires from getting frayed it just presses right in and you might need to use a screwdriver if it's tight and that clicks right in just like that to not have a metal wire with a little loop at the end here and what this is gonna do is it's gonna help me snake this into here so I could pull the wires through so we're gonna go in through here okay okay so now we have the metal wire going in and coming out okay now that the snake is through I'm gonna grab my two wires I need to make sure that I have a wire going to the fuse tap and a wire that runs to the relay so you have two wires going to the switch now the problem is we're gonna be running the fuse tab and since we're pulling it towards the fuse box this would have to go in here and well that's not gonna fit so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna run another wire and once I get this other wire through I'm going to attach the end of my fuse wire and then pull the end of the fuse wire back through the opposite way you'll see in a second the other thing is I'm planning on running more switches for different things I have bed lights that have reverse lights I'm hoping to get alley lights which are sideways lights that'll go onto the light bar that's kind of why I designed this right here I'm hoping I could get an alley light on this side and an alley light on the other side facing outwards so with those future plans in mind I'm gonna run eight wires which is enough wiring for four switches I'm gonna open up my snake here so I could fit the wires in there just like so crimp down on that snake good and then I'm just going to tape up the ends here so that they don't get caught on anything as I try to snake it through okay we're ready to snake this through okay you got it coming out the bottom now I'm gonna run the snake in through here which will go up here and it'll come out here so I could go run these wires up into the fuse box so it's right there perfect now we could push this back into place good pull this through once it's all the way through we could disconnect our snake here and remove the wires well remember I was saying before about running this through we couldn't get it through so we have that extra wire that we ran in here so I'm going to grab the end of the fuse wire and tape it to this wire just like so now I'm gonna grab this wire which is connected to the fuse wire now I'm gonna pull it through tada nice and simple so now we ran our fuse wire below the fuse box there's a grommet in there but I want to add some plastic tubing to protect the wires from any sharp metal edges you just need a short length just like that okay so it goes from spaghetti to a nice neat package we don't want to have spaghetti save that for dinner and now I'm gonna tuck this right in here until I wire up the other switches now let's get our fuse tap and that has to be run up there to the fuse box and remember use your tools to make your life easier you might as well just use that snake you've been using then we could attach our fuse and pull it up to the fuse box using the snake and there we go now we could easily connect a few step to number 17 beautiful now we have to get the fused wire here and connect it to the switches as well as connect the wire from the switch to the relay but first let's go install the switch in the door panel so we're almost done with the hardest part at least this is the hardest part in my opinion running the switch is kind of a pain you have to drill into stuff I hate drilling into stuff it's such a permanent thing to do you know you could ruin your panel if you don't do it right so I want the switch to be somewhere up here I think it would look good anywhere right over here and there's plenty of room in the back here because this kind of curls so there'll be plenty of room to get the switch in there so how this switch works I'm going to peel this back you can see there's a little lip the end you can see there's these plastic springs that push outwards and below that is the base of the switch which is skinnier than the springs and it's about 18 millimeters the lip at the end is about 22 millimeters so we're gonna have to drill a hole that's larger than 18 millimeters but smaller than 22 millimeters so I'm going to use this 19 millimeter which is also 3/4 inches hole saw bit before we use this big hole saw bit I'm gonna use a small bit to drill a pilot hole so the larger bit doesn't bounce around and it actually goes where we want it to go okay so we said right here's a good spot this looks good now I'm just gonna use a dremel to clean up the hole a little bit beautiful okay the whole came out really nice let's go push the switch in make sure you orient it the way you want it to go that looks good right there let's push there we go that's all it takes I should also mention that you should run a ground wire I should have ran it with these but I forgot all about it the ground wires for your switches so you could have your switches light up so if you want your switches to light up make sure you run a ground wire we have our ground wire coming down and you can see there's another ground wire here so we're gonna use that ground for our wire as well and to do that we're gonna strip the end of the wire and use an eyelet so just strip the wire crimp the eyelet on unscrew the ground attach our ground screw the ground back in and there we go we have our ground wire all set up now and we have all our wires ready to go so let's put the door panel back on now I'm going to just hang this back up without the piece in these clips gonna slide in at the bottom and then you press the panel down now we could quickly screw in the panel do the bottom one first screwing this middle screw here now we could put the window crank on just like that and now the last thing to go on is our door handle the black trim and you can see has our switch and I also added switches here for all the lights that I plan on using one's gonna be for reverse lights one is hopefully going to be for alley lights in the future and this one's for bed lights and then this is for the light bar so now before we put this on let's wire them up so I'm going to show you how to wire the switch that comes with the light the same thing applies to all these switches to on the back of the switch here you can see there's a one gold and then there's two silver prongs the gold prong is the ground that's how you get the light on the switch so we're gonna ground that out and for the other two silver prongs all you need to do is attach a fuse tap wire and the wire going to the relay now the way I'm wiring this is I'm jumping the grounds so for the ground on each switch I'm jumping over and I'm gonna jump it over to the ground up here and then attach that ground right here to the ground that goes to the car so this ground is getting jumped just like that so we're gonna crimp these two together so here's the wire from our door and here's the wire from our switches put them together crimp that okay that looks great I'm gonna slide the heat shrink right over this so we don't want the metal on this to be exposed okay so that looks good now let's connect it to the ground post on the switch now we have our two red wires the strip one is the one that's going to go to our relay in the engine compartment and the non strip one is the one that comes from our power source the fuse right over there and to connect them to our switches we're going to use these two connectors they just crimp right on good so since that's going to the relay we're going to put that on the bottom one good strip this wire real quick there are other connector crimp that down good and that's going to connect right into the middle because that's the one that's getting the power from the fuse just like that so we got our ground for the light we got our power in and power out I'm gonna quickly wire these up for my other lights but you guys don't need to see that that's just gonna be using all this stuff alright everything's all wired up all my switches are good to go make sure the wiring harnesses are out of the way after you ensure all your wires are not in the way click it in okay I'll get these final screws in secure the door in place and we're done with the switch okay now let's add the fuse to the fuse tap I'm going to use a 7.5 amp fuse because that's the smallest one I have right now but when I get a chance I'll switch that to a 5 amp fuse now we could close this up good now let's route the wire from the switch to the relay if we go under here we're just looking for a grommet that passes through the firewall and here's where I run wires from my other lights so I'll use this spot to run my wire through so what I'm going to do is I'm going to route the wire up and away from the emergency brake brake pedal and gas pedal and then we need to get it through the grommet so just push it through on this side on the engine bay side the grommet is located right down here grab the wire and pull it through I want to route this wire with the rest of the wires go run it down here through here and it comes out right here now we're going to go crimp this on make sure you crimp it so it's tight and secure so we're at the last steps here so 87 goes to the light bar we already have that done right here so our fuse and switch go to 86 86 is right there and here's our wire that goes to the switch we'll connect that good now we have our positive fused wire which goes to 30 and we have our grounds which goes to 85 so here's our positive fused wire which goes to 30 right down here and then here's our ground wire which goes to the last remaining spot 85 right there so our relay is set the light bar comes with a fuse already this has a 20 amp fuse in it since the light draws 15 amps and the last thing we have is the ground here which was going to connect directly to the battery but unfortunately this is the factory wiring harness and it just misses the post here it's so close so instead we're gonna grind it to a chassis the chassis ground is located right here so let's ground the light bar right now put the ground wire on the boat screw it all the way in good okay now let's mount the relay we're gonna put it right here so it's out of the way and it also stayed dry plus there's a stud so we can use a nut to secure the relay okay now let's finish getting these last two wires in our relay ground wire is going to go to the battery post so let me get that in the correct spot perfect our power wires going to the positive battery post connect that on to there and tighten the nut down to secure it good we have one last thing we need to do and that's to connect the ground wire so let's first connect the ground good now we're gonna get our ground slide it on there like that add another nut to secure it and tighten that up okay now we're ready to try everything out now the moment of truth beautiful works perfect and now that's what I call a job well done I cannot wait to see this on the trail tonight so just some finishing touches that I did I pretty much zip-tied the wiring harness all the way around and you can see it keeps it nice and neat and out of sight same for underneath the truck I just make sure that the zip ties hold the wiring harness in place and then under here you can see got zip tied right here run the cross got zip tied there and zip tied down there it just keeps the wires nice and neat also so they don't get stuck on moving parts such as the brake pedal okay and we are done that's how you properly wire an LED light bar or any off-road lights you could use the same process for wiring up these types of off-road lights the halogen lights spotlights pretty much any wiring job with a relay but specifically in this case lights so let's go for a ride and see how bright this LED light bar is okay so we're here on the trail using my low beams high beams and are you ready for the big unveiling of project night light boom go hit some trails this light is so bright it's ridiculous I can see the trails perfect which is awesome without it on you can't really see much what's going on but once I turn it on I can see all around me I get a really good idea of what I'm coming up - and it's not straining my eyes at all which is great you can see my hood has no reflection off of it that's because my light bar is mounted back a little bit the cutoff is actually you can kind of see the cutoff it's exactly at the hood it's right there and that's exactly where you want it I couldn't ask for any better place now you're not supposed to use these LED light bars on roads it's for off-road use only but on these back roads where there's nobody for miles and miles it really makes that much of a difference I mean check that out and you can see if there's any deer about to jump out in front of you and the good thing about the placement where I have my switch it's right next to the steering wheel I want to show it off boom it's off on turn on boom it's on and then here's high beams here's a night light so now you see where project night-light got its name as always hopefully this video is helpful but was remember to give it a thumbs up if you're not a subscriber hit that subscribe button for more project videos so I'll see you guys in the next video this concludes project nightlight now I'm off to go find the Jersey Devil\n"