Fixing a Viewer's BROKEN Gaming PC - Fix or Flop S1 -E3
# Article: Fixing an Xbox One: A Step-by-Step Journey Through Disassembly and Repair Attempts
## Introduction
In this article, we delve into a detailed account of attempts to fix an Xbox One console that exhibited significant issues. The journey begins with identifying symptoms, proceeding through disassembly, component inspection, cleaning, reassembling, and testing. Despite the efforts, the conclusion highlights the challenges faced, ultimately leading to the determination that the console was beyond repair.
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## Symptoms and Initial Assessment
The Xbox One in question displayed a common issue where it briefly powers on before shutting down after a few seconds. Upon initial inspection, it was evident that the system's front panel was connected via a ribbon cable. When powered on, the optical drive spun up momentarily, followed by a clicking sound originating from under the CPU cooler. Notably, the CPU cooler did not spin upon boot, which raised suspicions about potential issues with thermal management or component failure.
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## Disassembly Process
The repair process began with carefully disassembling the console to access internal components. The optical drive was disconnected using standard SATA connections, and the hard drive was removed for later replacement with a faster model if successful. Further disassembly revealed a heavily soiled main board, necessitating thorough cleaning and inspection.
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## Component Inspection
During the inspection phase, the main board exhibited significant dirt and grime, particularly in areas near the MOSFETs and RAM. Although there were no obvious signs of blown capacitors or soldered components initially, closer examination under a microscope revealed severe corrosion and damage to critical pads and connectors. These findings suggested liquid damage, potentially from exposure to substances like soda or tar.
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## Cleaning and Reassembly
The next step involved cleaning the board as much as possible without specialized equipment. The focus was on areas prone to liquid damage, using isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips. Despite efforts, residual stickiness and corrosion remained, indicating extensive damage. The CPU cooler was reinstalled with fresh thermal paste, and a new fan was tested in an attempt to resolve overheating issues.
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## Testing and Further Attempts
After reassembling and reconnecting peripherals, the console was tested repeatedly. While the fan began spinning upon boot (a positive sign), the system still shut down after just three seconds. This brief improvement provided minimal hope but ultimately did not resolve the core issue.
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## Conclusion: A Flop Outcome
Despite all efforts—cleaning, reapplying thermal paste, and replacing components—the console remained unresponsive beyond a few seconds. The extensive corrosion and damage to critical board areas made it clear that the system was terminally ill. Given the cost and time required for repair, it was determined more practical to replace the console rather than invest further in its修复.
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## Final Thoughts
This journey highlights the challenges of repairing older consoles with significant hardware issues. While some problems, like dirt accumulation, can be mitigated through cleaning, severe liquid damage often renders components irreparable. For those considering similar repairs, it is crucial to assess the extent of damage and weigh the cost against the value of a replacement.
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This article provides an in-depth look at the repair process, emphasizing the importance of thorough evaluation and realistic expectations when attempting to fix electronic devices with substantial hardware issues.
"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enthis here is an og xbox one and um it's a it's a bit disassembled right now because it does not work hence why it's a part of the fixer flop playlist we're gonna try to fix it i'll show you the symptoms what it's doing it's actually a fairly common thing with these consoles unfortunately and if we can fix it we will then in a separate video deep clean it because it's in desperate need of one of those this thing has not been open since it was bought and you can tell now i've got the front panel attached by a ribbon cable we need it to power the system on i'm going to show you what it does okay so it's on now the speaker's disconnected and that's it you hear a click after a few seconds and the console powers back off now i think i know what's wrong with this and if it happens to work out you'll see that in this video and if you have an xbox one that's exhibiting similar symptoms maybe you can follow along uh to fix yours but if i for whatever reason cannot fix it you'll still see that documented in this video and the ultimate conclusion will be that this was one big flop instead of a fix hence the playlist name now it obviously doesn't make any sense to deep clean something that is terminally ill and will not work no matter what we do to it which is why this console will remain very dirty throughout this video if we can fix it great it'll be in a pcdc video after this even though this isn't technically a pc but yeah we can roll with it uh but if we can't fix it yeah there's no sense in wasting uh man hours to clean something that will be jumped at the end of the day so i'm gonna give it my best shot let's see if we can fix it stay with me this video is sponsored by karma which is an app and chrome extension you can use to track prices of your favorite items and apply relevant coupon codes at checkout formerly shop tagger i've been using karma to track the price of ram which if you recall from our previous collab had been a bit all over the place but thanks to karma and their built-in price tracking feature i've been able to lock in the best time to buy and the automatic coupon finder is the icing on the cake ensuring you're getting the very best deal from said retailer you can create wish lists for any product you'd like and even set up alerts for sudden price changes and discounts locking in that peace of mind you've always wanted without wasting precious time it's about smart shopping here their intuitive interface makes it easy to categorize and sort wish list and there's even a chance to earn solid cashback via paypal for shopping at select retail partners so be sure to click the link below for a smarter shopping experience on both your phone with the karma app and on your pc with the karma chrome extension so just to remind you again what it does when you power it on i'm gonna get closer to it this time so you can hear uh the click when it powers back off you can see right away if i push it yep power light is on you can actually hear the optical drive spinning and then you hear a clicking sound and it's coming from somewhere under the cpu cooler now interestingly enough the cpu cooler itself does not spin upon first boot and i'm not sure if that's how it's supposed to be with xboxes i would have assumed that this fan would have started spinning right away so it's possible we have a dead cpu cooler or well apu cooler but uh yeah we're gonna figure it out and one of the first things we'll do here is disconnect the optical drive actually just uses standard sata connections here it's nothing that a pc builder would be you know confused by and uh once it's disconnected power disconnected we'll just pull it up like so now you can see the board is fairly dirty but i don't think that's our biggest concern at this moment i don't see any blown smds blown capacitors anything like that around the board at least on this side of it we're going to check the side under the cpu cooler here in a second we still need to assemble a few more things we're going to disconnect the hard drive i'm just going to do it from the board side and if we can get this console to work at the end of it i'll replace this drive with something much faster now i think we can pull the entire internal assembly yep straight up now we're going to disconnect the fan cable for the cpu cooler we'll need to remove this board here so just three additional torx screws now there are a couple clips up front we need to remove pretty straightforward another post back here and a few more to remove at the rear these two up top these two at the bottom right and then i already removed these four around the cpu cooler and now we can remove the main board from this internal frame here i grab it by the cpu cooler be careful pulling this stuff out go straight up there we go and now we'll need something flat to pry off this x-clamp and i don't think that my little pry tool so plastic one's going to work i think i'm going to need a legit flat-head screwdriver which kind of sucks because i really don't want to risk damaging any of these smds you know what it's actually not all that bad slide your flathead screwdriver in just twist and then there you go we gotta say all this this is so gross at this point i think we can flip the board back over and the cpu cooler should just slide right up there we go so it's pretty sad to see um the state of this main board here just really gross disgusting kind of rot down here i don't see any corrosion like smd corrosion that would be detrimental to the uh the life life span of this one cause of concern uh would be the apu itself you can see that the kind of mirror-like finish there on top that is pretty much bare i don't see any thermal paste there and if you look at the cpu cooler pretty much the same story uh bare metal there i'm not sure if this is a nickel plated copper or what but it doesn't look like there's too much thermal paste over the apu itself which is a bit concerning and i'm also concerned about the fan i think the fan should be turning right when the console turns on so it's possible that the console itself is checking for the fan you know turning and if it's not noticing that the fan turns it's turning itself off to kind of save itself from overheating potentially in the long run so we're going to re-paste the apu and then we are going to remount the cooler and i'm going to see if that fixes it if it doesn't or if the fan doesn't turn i'll replace the fan this fan here looks like a pretty standard maybe like 120 mil fan uh but worst case i could kind of like you know jimmy rake something onto here uh similar 120 ml size and uh connect that to uh this header here this header is not a conventional fan header for a pc but i do have an adapter that i can use the good news is the ap itself looks to be in good shape i don't see um any obvious signs that you know it wouldn't be either mounted properly to the main board or maybe you know part of the die was lifted up when this uh console was previously serviced it doesn't look like it was ever actually disassembled the warranty sticker on the side of the console was still intact when i received this so um i have no reason to believe that the apu itself is bad so that's good news you know physically physical inspection looks good now that this die has been cleaned up we're going to reapply a better thermal compound and then we will re-secure the cooler we'll reconnect the peripherals just enough we're not going to fully reassemble it but i'm going to also replace that fan it doesn't really make sense to not replace it if it's not spinning we'll go ahead and swap it out and see if that fixes our issue and there we go replace it with an actual fan and i'll clean all this cable management up if the console ends up working as a result of what we've done here um i'll take the noxua fan back if we need to junk this the other thing i swapped the fan config out so before right it was exhausting air out the top but in this config here i'm actually going to have the air blow down into the main board and then it's going to exhaust out the sides of the console instead so a different flow path i think this is actually i don't know i'm not a console engineer but i think this would actually be a bit better for the console overall assuming that uh nothing's obstructing the console from above all right and now it's time to test this out again before we do anything else again we don't want to waste our time here if this rather simple fix doesn't actually fix the problem then uh yeah we don't need to bother reassembling the entire thing would be a waste so we're going to reconnect the power here ah nope same issue as before and the fan still didn't spin i'm not sure if again if that's what i should be looking at here i'm not sure if the fan spins right away i don't recall on my old xbox but i do know that shouldn't be shutting down that fast okay more investigating to do so the next thing i'll try is cleaning up the board especially in the areas around the mosfets and the ram looking really rough i don't think it's actual corrosion it could be just looks like a lot of grime it's possible that something was spilled in this console now that i've actually looked into it a bit more on the rear especially around the edges which is where the liquid tends to accumulate on these things if something has spilled on it it's looking pretty rough so i'm going to give it not necessarily the full pc dc treatment but i'm going to clean this board up as best i can try to make it look as brand new as possible and if i see any serious corrosion i'll try to re-solder those joints and then we'll give it one more one more shot i don't have a donor board here and and that's part of the problem is i can't swap smds i can't swap uh caps mosfets things like that so we will see if thoroughly cleaning the board fixes it i have read on some forums that folks have just taken literal hair dryers and they've just blasted hot air through these consoles for about two to three minutes and then all of a sudden the console will will stay on again it won't immediately power off like it was before so i'm thinking there's either a small short somewhere due to this corrosion maybe something got in here and it's shorting but uh if we clean it up and we we notice something i'll try to fix it but yeah this is all i can do at this point without a donor board this is this is pretty much it so we'll clean it up i'll see if i need to resolder anything and we'll go from there and well it looks like it's a lot worse than i thought um i'm not even gonna bother putting the ap cooler back on i don't think it's going to make a difference let me get the other board right here yeah essentially what we've got is a board that i think was soaked with something it almost looks like soda i thought a lot of this was just thick grime maybe this owner was a smoker or something and i just did a lot of dirt and tar and whatever else on this board but after trying to clean it and i cleaned it as best i could i noticed a lot of first off corrosion there is actual corrosion on this main board which is unfortunate and there is quite a bit of stickiness on the board and that doesn't just pop up out of nowhere there usually is i can't get this stupid ribbon cable connected there's usually an introduction of some substance that causes that to be sticky so as i'm doing this i'm preparing mentally for uh for this to be a fail because it's i mean if this was in fact covered in liquid which it sure does now that i've tried to clean it look like that was the case then there are just they're going to be too many things on this board to even if i re-soldered i mean i and i could probably re-solder most of the smds on here but it would just take way too long my time is worth more than that to me in a single video i have other videos to make i'm just going to check quickly here i want to see sometimes this button doesn't want to work because i'm wearing gloves the apu heats up but then then we lose it i'm going to just place the cooler on top of the apu connect that fan header yeah let's give it another go see what happens no way why is the fan spinning now it never spawn is that on camera can you guys see that power's on defenseman's that's uh and then it cuts off what wasn't happening before that is happening now to allow the fan to spin but the console still only stays on for a couple of seconds let's count it zero one two three about three seconds that it's staying on i'm not sure again if that's any any longer than it was before but we weren't getting the fan spinning prior to me cleaning this board and this board isn't even spotlight and there's still plenty of corrosion nastiness on here that i can't get up with isopropyl and q-tips it's just not going to happen i was literally chiseling away copper around some of these uh cutouts on the board it is that it's just that nasty it's oxidized to that extent and that of course if left untreated can damage other smds things that that actually are vital to the functioning of the console so man i i i had i i literally was right i didn't even do it that time why is it powering on its own anyway i was ready to give up hope here um i was ready to just call it quits now that that fan is spinning because we cleaned it i mean if just cleaning the board gives us that glimmer of hope i'm inclined to continue now to see if i can clean other parts of the board that might be preventing this from fully posting i don't know let's give it one more shot a few moments later welp it's a lost cause i have taken my microscope to it i should have done this to begin with when i when i suspected there was some degree of corrosion here you can see that some of these connectors these pads as well are just totally eaten through i don't know if the pads are viable i'd have to de-solder these smds and and check but there are so many different devices service mounted devices on here that are that are shot if i really wanted to i could probably buy another donor board i could start swapping smds out assuming my soldering skills are as as good as they would need to be to fix some of these really really small components you can see other parts of the board including this section here are not liquid damage it's very apparent the contacts the traces the pads are all intact and this is what i would expect it to look like elsewhere but of course closer toward the mosfets power delivery side of the board which is the part you really don't want to get wet with anything um yeah it's obviously it's some sort of liquid damage uh and if that's not the case then again maybe a lot of salt content in the air this console was clearly not taken care of well despite its age and because of that it's pretty much unfixable without a ton of labor input and that's where another big problem arises when it comes to cost input labor versus how much it costs to buy another entire console you're gonna be spending a lot of money to fix this whereas a full-on brand new so to speak xbox one console would only cost you maybe a couple hundred bucks depending on where you live if you're going to spend more than that to fix a broken one just toss it out and buy a new one and that's pretty much the dilemma i've run into here it doesn't make any more sense to spend more time on this because at the end of the day if i really want this to work i'll just buy another one my time is worth more than the amount of labor input necessary to more than likely get this thing to work so that's why i'm calling it this is ultimately a flop but i think we were able to determine at least what the cause of death was for this board which was cool if you guys enjoyed this kind of content let me know by giving this one a thumbs up i would appreciate that you can also leave a comment down below let me know what you want to see fixed next we do have a few viewer submissions from the area that i'm going to take a look at you've already seen the previous fixer flop video where i i couldn't ultimately fix the viewer system but we were able to determine that the graphics card was at fault and he was able to process a warranty return there so that was really nice um it's just um something extra that i can do for folks who are more or less stuck with current or not current especially older hardware uh because it's difficult to buy anything current graphics cards are so expensive a console same way i mean maybe you've been looking to build a pc and recently you've noticed prices skyrocketing especially in the graphics card market and you've decided to stick with your console well if your console looks like this you're pretty much sol but if you have a really dirty console maybe one that's just acting up a bit maybe it's exhibiting similar symptoms but you think there might be an easier fix associated with it it's not a liquid damage board then yeah it might be worth taking apart trying to fix assuming your warranty is already out the window because your console is too old so with that i'm going to get out of here thank you again for watching and i'll catch you in the next one my name is greg thanks for learning with methis here is an og xbox one and um it's a it's a bit disassembled right now because it does not work hence why it's a part of the fixer flop playlist we're gonna try to fix it i'll show you the symptoms what it's doing it's actually a fairly common thing with these consoles unfortunately and if we can fix it we will then in a separate video deep clean it because it's in desperate need of one of those this thing has not been open since it was bought and you can tell now i've got the front panel attached by a ribbon cable we need it to power the system on i'm going to show you what it does okay so it's on now the speaker's disconnected and that's it you hear a click after a few seconds and the console powers back off now i think i know what's wrong with this and if it happens to work out you'll see that in this video and if you have an xbox one that's exhibiting similar symptoms maybe you can follow along uh to fix yours but if i for whatever reason cannot fix it you'll still see that documented in this video and the ultimate conclusion will be that this was one big flop instead of a fix hence the playlist name now it obviously doesn't make any sense to deep clean something that is terminally ill and will not work no matter what we do to it which is why this console will remain very dirty throughout this video if we can fix it great it'll be in a pcdc video after this even though this isn't technically a pc but yeah we can roll with it uh but if we can't fix it yeah there's no sense in wasting uh man hours to clean something that will be jumped at the end of the day so i'm gonna give it my best shot let's see if we can fix it stay with me this video is sponsored by karma which is an app and chrome extension you can use to track prices of your favorite items and apply relevant coupon codes at checkout formerly shop tagger i've been using karma to track the price of ram which if you recall from our previous collab had been a bit all over the place but thanks to karma and their built-in price tracking feature i've been able to lock in the best time to buy and the automatic coupon finder is the icing on the cake ensuring you're getting the very best deal from said retailer you can create wish lists for any product you'd like and even set up alerts for sudden price changes and discounts locking in that peace of mind you've always wanted without wasting precious time it's about smart shopping here their intuitive interface makes it easy to categorize and sort wish list and there's even a chance to earn solid cashback via paypal for shopping at select retail partners so be sure to click the link below for a smarter shopping experience on both your phone with the karma app and on your pc with the karma chrome extension so just to remind you again what it does when you power it on i'm gonna get closer to it this time so you can hear uh the click when it powers back off you can see right away if i push it yep power light is on you can actually hear the optical drive spinning and then you hear a clicking sound and it's coming from somewhere under the cpu cooler now interestingly enough the cpu cooler itself does not spin upon first boot and i'm not sure if that's how it's supposed to be with xboxes i would have assumed that this fan would have started spinning right away so it's possible we have a dead cpu cooler or well apu cooler but uh yeah we're gonna figure it out and one of the first things we'll do here is disconnect the optical drive actually just uses standard sata connections here it's nothing that a pc builder would be you know confused by and uh once it's disconnected power disconnected we'll just pull it up like so now you can see the board is fairly dirty but i don't think that's our biggest concern at this moment i don't see any blown smds blown capacitors anything like that around the board at least on this side of it we're going to check the side under the cpu cooler here in a second we still need to assemble a few more things we're going to disconnect the hard drive i'm just going to do it from the board side and if we can get this console to work at the end of it i'll replace this drive with something much faster now i think we can pull the entire internal assembly yep straight up now we're going to disconnect the fan cable for the cpu cooler we'll need to remove this board here so just three additional torx screws now there are a couple clips up front we need to remove pretty straightforward another post back here and a few more to remove at the rear these two up top these two at the bottom right and then i already removed these four around the cpu cooler and now we can remove the main board from this internal frame here i grab it by the cpu cooler be careful pulling this stuff out go straight up there we go and now we'll need something flat to pry off this x-clamp and i don't think that my little pry tool so plastic one's going to work i think i'm going to need a legit flat-head screwdriver which kind of sucks because i really don't want to risk damaging any of these smds you know what it's actually not all that bad slide your flathead screwdriver in just twist and then there you go we gotta say all this this is so gross at this point i think we can flip the board back over and the cpu cooler should just slide right up there we go so it's pretty sad to see um the state of this main board here just really gross disgusting kind of rot down here i don't see any corrosion like smd corrosion that would be detrimental to the uh the life life span of this one cause of concern uh would be the apu itself you can see that the kind of mirror-like finish there on top that is pretty much bare i don't see any thermal paste there and if you look at the cpu cooler pretty much the same story uh bare metal there i'm not sure if this is a nickel plated copper or what but it doesn't look like there's too much thermal paste over the apu itself which is a bit concerning and i'm also concerned about the fan i think the fan should be turning right when the console turns on so it's possible that the console itself is checking for the fan you know turning and if it's not noticing that the fan turns it's turning itself off to kind of save itself from overheating potentially in the long run so we're going to re-paste the apu and then we are going to remount the cooler and i'm going to see if that fixes it if it doesn't or if the fan doesn't turn i'll replace the fan this fan here looks like a pretty standard maybe like 120 mil fan uh but worst case i could kind of like you know jimmy rake something onto here uh similar 120 ml size and uh connect that to uh this header here this header is not a conventional fan header for a pc but i do have an adapter that i can use the good news is the ap itself looks to be in good shape i don't see um any obvious signs that you know it wouldn't be either mounted properly to the main board or maybe you know part of the die was lifted up when this uh console was previously serviced it doesn't look like it was ever actually disassembled the warranty sticker on the side of the console was still intact when i received this so um i have no reason to believe that the apu itself is bad so that's good news you know physically physical inspection looks good now that this die has been cleaned up we're going to reapply a better thermal compound and then we will re-secure the cooler we'll reconnect the peripherals just enough we're not going to fully reassemble it but i'm going to also replace that fan it doesn't really make sense to not replace it if it's not spinning we'll go ahead and swap it out and see if that fixes our issue and there we go replace it with an actual fan and i'll clean all this cable management up if the console ends up working as a result of what we've done here um i'll take the noxua fan back if we need to junk this the other thing i swapped the fan config out so before right it was exhausting air out the top but in this config here i'm actually going to have the air blow down into the main board and then it's going to exhaust out the sides of the console instead so a different flow path i think this is actually i don't know i'm not a console engineer but i think this would actually be a bit better for the console overall assuming that uh nothing's obstructing the console from above all right and now it's time to test this out again before we do anything else again we don't want to waste our time here if this rather simple fix doesn't actually fix the problem then uh yeah we don't need to bother reassembling the entire thing would be a waste so we're going to reconnect the power here ah nope same issue as before and the fan still didn't spin i'm not sure if again if that's what i should be looking at here i'm not sure if the fan spins right away i don't recall on my old xbox but i do know that shouldn't be shutting down that fast okay more investigating to do so the next thing i'll try is cleaning up the board especially in the areas around the mosfets and the ram looking really rough i don't think it's actual corrosion it could be just looks like a lot of grime it's possible that something was spilled in this console now that i've actually looked into it a bit more on the rear especially around the edges which is where the liquid tends to accumulate on these things if something has spilled on it it's looking pretty rough so i'm going to give it not necessarily the full pc dc treatment but i'm going to clean this board up as best i can try to make it look as brand new as possible and if i see any serious corrosion i'll try to re-solder those joints and then we'll give it one more one more shot i don't have a donor board here and and that's part of the problem is i can't swap smds i can't swap uh caps mosfets things like that so we will see if thoroughly cleaning the board fixes it i have read on some forums that folks have just taken literal hair dryers and they've just blasted hot air through these consoles for about two to three minutes and then all of a sudden the console will will stay on again it won't immediately power off like it was before so i'm thinking there's either a small short somewhere due to this corrosion maybe something got in here and it's shorting but uh if we clean it up and we we notice something i'll try to fix it but yeah this is all i can do at this point without a donor board this is this is pretty much it so we'll clean it up i'll see if i need to resolder anything and we'll go from there and well it looks like it's a lot worse than i thought um i'm not even gonna bother putting the ap cooler back on i don't think it's going to make a difference let me get the other board right here yeah essentially what we've got is a board that i think was soaked with something it almost looks like soda i thought a lot of this was just thick grime maybe this owner was a smoker or something and i just did a lot of dirt and tar and whatever else on this board but after trying to clean it and i cleaned it as best i could i noticed a lot of first off corrosion there is actual corrosion on this main board which is unfortunate and there is quite a bit of stickiness on the board and that doesn't just pop up out of nowhere there usually is i can't get this stupid ribbon cable connected there's usually an introduction of some substance that causes that to be sticky so as i'm doing this i'm preparing mentally for uh for this to be a fail because it's i mean if this was in fact covered in liquid which it sure does now that i've tried to clean it look like that was the case then there are just they're going to be too many things on this board to even if i re-soldered i mean i and i could probably re-solder most of the smds on here but it would just take way too long my time is worth more than that to me in a single video i have other videos to make i'm just going to check quickly here i want to see sometimes this button doesn't want to work because i'm wearing gloves the apu heats up but then then we lose it i'm going to just place the cooler on top of the apu connect that fan header yeah let's give it another go see what happens no way why is the fan spinning now it never spawn is that on camera can you guys see that power's on defenseman's that's uh and then it cuts off what wasn't happening before that is happening now to allow the fan to spin but the console still only stays on for a couple of seconds let's count it zero one two three about three seconds that it's staying on i'm not sure again if that's any any longer than it was before but we weren't getting the fan spinning prior to me cleaning this board and this board isn't even spotlight and there's still plenty of corrosion nastiness on here that i can't get up with isopropyl and q-tips it's just not going to happen i was literally chiseling away copper around some of these uh cutouts on the board it is that it's just that nasty it's oxidized to that extent and that of course if left untreated can damage other smds things that that actually are vital to the functioning of the console so man i i i had i i literally was right i didn't even do it that time why is it powering on its own anyway i was ready to give up hope here um i was ready to just call it quits now that that fan is spinning because we cleaned it i mean if just cleaning the board gives us that glimmer of hope i'm inclined to continue now to see if i can clean other parts of the board that might be preventing this from fully posting i don't know let's give it one more shot a few moments later welp it's a lost cause i have taken my microscope to it i should have done this to begin with when i when i suspected there was some degree of corrosion here you can see that some of these connectors these pads as well are just totally eaten through i don't know if the pads are viable i'd have to de-solder these smds and and check but there are so many different devices service mounted devices on here that are that are shot if i really wanted to i could probably buy another donor board i could start swapping smds out assuming my soldering skills are as as good as they would need to be to fix some of these really really small components you can see other parts of the board including this section here are not liquid damage it's very apparent the contacts the traces the pads are all intact and this is what i would expect it to look like elsewhere but of course closer toward the mosfets power delivery side of the board which is the part you really don't want to get wet with anything um yeah it's obviously it's some sort of liquid damage uh and if that's not the case then again maybe a lot of salt content in the air this console was clearly not taken care of well despite its age and because of that it's pretty much unfixable without a ton of labor input and that's where another big problem arises when it comes to cost input labor versus how much it costs to buy another entire console you're gonna be spending a lot of money to fix this whereas a full-on brand new so to speak xbox one console would only cost you maybe a couple hundred bucks depending on where you live if you're going to spend more than that to fix a broken one just toss it out and buy a new one and that's pretty much the dilemma i've run into here it doesn't make any more sense to spend more time on this because at the end of the day if i really want this to work i'll just buy another one my time is worth more than the amount of labor input necessary to more than likely get this thing to work so that's why i'm calling it this is ultimately a flop but i think we were able to determine at least what the cause of death was for this board which was cool if you guys enjoyed this kind of content let me know by giving this one a thumbs up i would appreciate that you can also leave a comment down below let me know what you want to see fixed next we do have a few viewer submissions from the area that i'm going to take a look at you've already seen the previous fixer flop video where i i couldn't ultimately fix the viewer system but we were able to determine that the graphics card was at fault and he was able to process a warranty return there so that was really nice um it's just um something extra that i can do for folks who are more or less stuck with current or not current especially older hardware uh because it's difficult to buy anything current graphics cards are so expensive a console same way i mean maybe you've been looking to build a pc and recently you've noticed prices skyrocketing especially in the graphics card market and you've decided to stick with your console well if your console looks like this you're pretty much sol but if you have a really dirty console maybe one that's just acting up a bit maybe it's exhibiting similar symptoms but you think there might be an easier fix associated with it it's not a liquid damage board then yeah it might be worth taking apart trying to fix assuming your warranty is already out the window because your console is too old so with that i'm going to get out of here thank you again for watching and i'll catch you in the next one my name is greg thanks for learning with me\n"