"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enjoin us now on Flickr at flickr.com slash groups slash art of photography welcome to the art of photography my name is Ted Forbes and in the last couple episodes we have talked about darkroom chemicals how to get your film into a developing tank and today I'm going to show you actually how to develop your film and so come with me into our little makeshift darkroom and we'll go ahead and get started okay so the first thing you're going to want to do is get your chemicals ready and I measure off about 400 milliliters for the specific tank if you're not sure just fill up the tank when it's empty and pour it back into a measuring cup and see see what it takes to fill it up but you'll see that I have my developer on the left my stop bath in the middle and my fixer on the right now we're going to have to have this I like to develop at a specific temperature now I have this kind of bowl of ice here what I'm going to do is simply place these into the ice there's a little bit ice and a little bit of water at the bottom and I go ahead and get those in get my thermometer in so I can make sure that all my chemicals are at 20 degrees Celsius so what you're going to do is just simply stick that in and wait for a little while and when it's time you'll go ahead and pull them out and you're ready to start developing all your chemicals are at 20 degrees Celsius they're all controlled I know that my development time is going to be 9 minutes in this case that's going on and so we're going to do here is going to set to the timer to nine minutes and go ahead and start pouring in the developer and you want to do this notice I haven't started the clock yet but you want to do this fast enough if you go too fast you'll start sloshing it everywhere if you go too slow you'll take too long and so once this is fill and you can see it at the top there's a little liquid the top we'll go ahead and put the lid on and I'll start developing now what I'm going to do is a process here called agitation where I'm simply spinning slowly I'm inverting the tank notice that I'm also inverting at the same time I'm also spinning the tank in a clockwise motion and so what I'm going to do this is known as agitation and I'm going to do this for the first 30 seconds and what this is going to do is it's going to get the film make sure that it's at the same temperature the developer is and just kind of get things started once I'm done what you're going to see me do is tap here on the counter three times and I'm going to let it sit now what you're going to do is let 30 seconds go by and every 30 seconds you're going to agitate just one inversion okay and so the reason you can see when the second hand gets to the zero here oh I'll I'll in fact invert the tank the reason for doing this is the the developer that's right up against the film exhausts itself and so simply this just replenishes it and puts fresh developer up next to the film layer so once we're done with the you can see also yeah here it is on the 30-second mark I'm developing again so this is very important to the development if you don't agitate you'll burn the chemicals out that are right next to the film and it'll it won't work when we're ready and you can see that I know that it takes me about 15 seconds to dump this chemical out and get the next one in we're going to put the stop bath in so I'm simply going to put the developer back in the container I got it from that's dead now we'll actually dump that out later and if you watch the second hand right as it's about to hit the zero make sure all the liquid is out of the tank you're going to simply pour the stop bath into the light the light trap there and remember no light is getting in only liquid so it's kind of a nice convenience because we're able to do this in the light once I've got the stop bath in I'm going to go ahead and put the lid on here and set the timer for one minute and I'm going to agitate continuously during this one minute remember agitation is slow the name makes it sound like it's a violent thing and it's not it's not a cocktail shaker you're simply just making sure that you've got fresh chemical right next to the film base when the stop bath is done we're going to pour that out and you'll you'll figure out it takes me about 15 seconds know that you don't have to be dead on spot accurate with your chemical times here because you know at a nine-minute development time and we're into the other chemicals now which are less time sensitive but I'm pouring the fixer in right now and what the fixer is going to do the stop bath simply killed any developer that was left on the film and stopped the development now the fixer is going to take notice our film is still light-sensitive I've not taken this lid off yet or the main lead i've only released the light trap i'm going to set the fix for about nine minutes here but the fix basically is going to take off the light-sensitive particles that were not developed so this would be dark areas on your film if i took the lid off now those dark areas would over expose and again this would not work right so again i'm going to agitate for the first 30 seconds here which just like the developer notice it's slow I do about one inversion takes about five seconds to do an inversion and first 30 seconds go by I'm going to tap on the table again this is to dislodge any air bubbles that are in the tank I didn't mention that earlier if you have air bubbles up next to your film the developer will not hit it right or any of the other chemicals for that matter and you'll have a problem one thing you can do here is when we're done with the fix process this is after about nine minutes I'm going to go ahead I'm not going to dump the chemicals yet but I'm gonna pull the film out and check it if you're not sure about the time and you can see that you just pull a little bit of development up or the exceed indeed developed film up you don't want any spots or any grunge or anything on the film you can see this one's pretty clear if you do have some spots and some grunge and doesn't look like the fixers done yet you can go ahead and roll this back up put it back in the tank and continue to fix it a while longer give it another five minutes or so but this one is pretty much done so I think I'm good to go on this and we're going to go ahead and dump the fixer out here and you can see just hold hold the tank in with your finger so it doesn't come flying out because it is loose and then we're going to begin the wash process and the first part of this basically what I'm going to do is hold the tank under the tap and just get all the the chemical out of there that I can off the bad just give it a good rinse now the actual wash process we're going to have to really make sure these are clean and you cannot over wash so leave it in there as long as you need I usually leave it in for about 30 minutes with a standard fixer and you can see I'm dumping it out there we're just going to let that sit for for a good good half-hour now since we're going to leave this for about half hour this is a good time to clean up go ahead and set your set your timer so you know how long it's been and typically you can reuse chemicals the developer is dead you're going to have to dump that but the fixer is reusable so I'm just simply going to pour this back into the original container I got it out of and I store these on the bathroom sink to keep them out of the way but since we're just in a 30 minute wash now I'm going to go ahead and clean some stuff up now but the stop bath away stop bath is also replenishable and you can see I'm dumping out the developer here if you're going to dump chemicals in the sink at this point notice I've removed the film out of the tap because I don't want to dump anything into there obviously and so go ahead and get those rinsed now the final process this is jumping ahead 30 minutes is I like to use an lfn solution which basically will lower the surface tension of the of the water I'm going to go ahead and put some distilled water and at this point because the water contains junk and this is a final rent so I'm just getting the film as clean as I can possibly get it so I'm going to go ahead and put my film in there and this is with the lfn this is not as critical you can add table faster if you want to I usually leave it in for about no two minutes or so just to make sure we're good these are film clips now what I'm going to do is use these to hang the film to dry you can see this one has a weight in the end of it you put that at the bottom so it hangs straight and doesn't curl go ahead and get all the excess liquid off of off of your film school here as much as you can you're not going to get it totally dry obviously but you're trying to minimize that now we use the lfn solution so when the when this dries it's not going to spot the water won't be a stubborn about evaporating off the film surface but you're basically going to do these I like to hang in the shower and the reason I like the shower in the bathroom is because the steam from the shower when you use it daily it ends up taking all the dust out of the air makes it heavy and makes it fall out of the air so dust is the enemy and when you're dealing with film I'm going to go ahead and hang that to dry and in the meantime I'm going to go ahead and clean this is a very important step do not leave a mess in your darkroom it's tempting to want to dry the stuff and go ahead and get cranking and it's not worth it make sure you have a clean environment you're going to go ahead once the film is dry takes about 45 minutes to an hour I left this one for an hour just take a pair of scissors and just go ahead and cut the ends off I'm going to put these in some archival sleeves which hold four negatives per strip so I'm going to cut these at every four images and you can see them cutting there and then finally cut the other end off and you now have developed some film okay so that is more or less the process involved with developing film I hope I didn't make it look too easy or too difficult either way but it is it's a fun process once you get the hang of it and you can start making adjustments like I was talking about we'll talk about in later episodes how you can change your development times a little bit how you can change your agitation method depending on what you're doing there are other methods like a stand stand development where you don't agitate it all we'll get into this later that have different effects on the film so anyway all this to say I hope you found this useful and next time we're going to go into talking about what do you do once your film is developed well you basically have two options at this point you can make a print or you can scan your film and get into the digital domain inside your computer and we'll talk about that next time so anyway this has been the art of photography thanks for watchingjoin us now on Flickr at flickr.com slash groups slash art of photography welcome to the art of photography my name is Ted Forbes and in the last couple episodes we have talked about darkroom chemicals how to get your film into a developing tank and today I'm going to show you actually how to develop your film and so come with me into our little makeshift darkroom and we'll go ahead and get started okay so the first thing you're going to want to do is get your chemicals ready and I measure off about 400 milliliters for the specific tank if you're not sure just fill up the tank when it's empty and pour it back into a measuring cup and see see what it takes to fill it up but you'll see that I have my developer on the left my stop bath in the middle and my fixer on the right now we're going to have to have this I like to develop at a specific temperature now I have this kind of bowl of ice here what I'm going to do is simply place these into the ice there's a little bit ice and a little bit of water at the bottom and I go ahead and get those in get my thermometer in so I can make sure that all my chemicals are at 20 degrees Celsius so what you're going to do is just simply stick that in and wait for a little while and when it's time you'll go ahead and pull them out and you're ready to start developing all your chemicals are at 20 degrees Celsius they're all controlled I know that my development time is going to be 9 minutes in this case that's going on and so we're going to do here is going to set to the timer to nine minutes and go ahead and start pouring in the developer and you want to do this notice I haven't started the clock yet but you want to do this fast enough if you go too fast you'll start sloshing it everywhere if you go too slow you'll take too long and so once this is fill and you can see it at the top there's a little liquid the top we'll go ahead and put the lid on and I'll start developing now what I'm going to do is a process here called agitation where I'm simply spinning slowly I'm inverting the tank notice that I'm also inverting at the same time I'm also spinning the tank in a clockwise motion and so what I'm going to do this is known as agitation and I'm going to do this for the first 30 seconds and what this is going to do is it's going to get the film make sure that it's at the same temperature the developer is and just kind of get things started once I'm done what you're going to see me do is tap here on the counter three times and I'm going to let it sit now what you're going to do is let 30 seconds go by and every 30 seconds you're going to agitate just one inversion okay and so the reason you can see when the second hand gets to the zero here oh I'll I'll in fact invert the tank the reason for doing this is the the developer that's right up against the film exhausts itself and so simply this just replenishes it and puts fresh developer up next to the film layer so once we're done with the you can see also yeah here it is on the 30-second mark I'm developing again so this is very important to the development if you don't agitate you'll burn the chemicals out that are right next to the film and it'll it won't work when we're ready and you can see that I know that it takes me about 15 seconds to dump this chemical out and get the next one in we're going to put the stop bath in so I'm simply going to put the developer back in the container I got it from that's dead now we'll actually dump that out later and if you watch the second hand right as it's about to hit the zero make sure all the liquid is out of the tank you're going to simply pour the stop bath into the light the light trap there and remember no light is getting in only liquid so it's kind of a nice convenience because we're able to do this in the light once I've got the stop bath in I'm going to go ahead and put the lid on here and set the timer for one minute and I'm going to agitate continuously during this one minute remember agitation is slow the name makes it sound like it's a violent thing and it's not it's not a cocktail shaker you're simply just making sure that you've got fresh chemical right next to the film base when the stop bath is done we're going to pour that out and you'll you'll figure out it takes me about 15 seconds know that you don't have to be dead on spot accurate with your chemical times here because you know at a nine-minute development time and we're into the other chemicals now which are less time sensitive but I'm pouring the fixer in right now and what the fixer is going to do the stop bath simply killed any developer that was left on the film and stopped the development now the fixer is going to take notice our film is still light-sensitive I've not taken this lid off yet or the main lead i've only released the light trap i'm going to set the fix for about nine minutes here but the fix basically is going to take off the light-sensitive particles that were not developed so this would be dark areas on your film if i took the lid off now those dark areas would over expose and again this would not work right so again i'm going to agitate for the first 30 seconds here which just like the developer notice it's slow I do about one inversion takes about five seconds to do an inversion and first 30 seconds go by I'm going to tap on the table again this is to dislodge any air bubbles that are in the tank I didn't mention that earlier if you have air bubbles up next to your film the developer will not hit it right or any of the other chemicals for that matter and you'll have a problem one thing you can do here is when we're done with the fix process this is after about nine minutes I'm going to go ahead I'm not going to dump the chemicals yet but I'm gonna pull the film out and check it if you're not sure about the time and you can see that you just pull a little bit of development up or the exceed indeed developed film up you don't want any spots or any grunge or anything on the film you can see this one's pretty clear if you do have some spots and some grunge and doesn't look like the fixers done yet you can go ahead and roll this back up put it back in the tank and continue to fix it a while longer give it another five minutes or so but this one is pretty much done so I think I'm good to go on this and we're going to go ahead and dump the fixer out here and you can see just hold hold the tank in with your finger so it doesn't come flying out because it is loose and then we're going to begin the wash process and the first part of this basically what I'm going to do is hold the tank under the tap and just get all the the chemical out of there that I can off the bad just give it a good rinse now the actual wash process we're going to have to really make sure these are clean and you cannot over wash so leave it in there as long as you need I usually leave it in for about 30 minutes with a standard fixer and you can see I'm dumping it out there we're just going to let that sit for for a good good half-hour now since we're going to leave this for about half hour this is a good time to clean up go ahead and set your set your timer so you know how long it's been and typically you can reuse chemicals the developer is dead you're going to have to dump that but the fixer is reusable so I'm just simply going to pour this back into the original container I got it out of and I store these on the bathroom sink to keep them out of the way but since we're just in a 30 minute wash now I'm going to go ahead and clean some stuff up now but the stop bath away stop bath is also replenishable and you can see I'm dumping out the developer here if you're going to dump chemicals in the sink at this point notice I've removed the film out of the tap because I don't want to dump anything into there obviously and so go ahead and get those rinsed now the final process this is jumping ahead 30 minutes is I like to use an lfn solution which basically will lower the surface tension of the of the water I'm going to go ahead and put some distilled water and at this point because the water contains junk and this is a final rent so I'm just getting the film as clean as I can possibly get it so I'm going to go ahead and put my film in there and this is with the lfn this is not as critical you can add table faster if you want to I usually leave it in for about no two minutes or so just to make sure we're good these are film clips now what I'm going to do is use these to hang the film to dry you can see this one has a weight in the end of it you put that at the bottom so it hangs straight and doesn't curl go ahead and get all the excess liquid off of off of your film school here as much as you can you're not going to get it totally dry obviously but you're trying to minimize that now we use the lfn solution so when the when this dries it's not going to spot the water won't be a stubborn about evaporating off the film surface but you're basically going to do these I like to hang in the shower and the reason I like the shower in the bathroom is because the steam from the shower when you use it daily it ends up taking all the dust out of the air makes it heavy and makes it fall out of the air so dust is the enemy and when you're dealing with film I'm going to go ahead and hang that to dry and in the meantime I'm going to go ahead and clean this is a very important step do not leave a mess in your darkroom it's tempting to want to dry the stuff and go ahead and get cranking and it's not worth it make sure you have a clean environment you're going to go ahead once the film is dry takes about 45 minutes to an hour I left this one for an hour just take a pair of scissors and just go ahead and cut the ends off I'm going to put these in some archival sleeves which hold four negatives per strip so I'm going to cut these at every four images and you can see them cutting there and then finally cut the other end off and you now have developed some film okay so that is more or less the process involved with developing film I hope I didn't make it look too easy or too difficult either way but it is it's a fun process once you get the hang of it and you can start making adjustments like I was talking about we'll talk about in later episodes how you can change your development times a little bit how you can change your agitation method depending on what you're doing there are other methods like a stand stand development where you don't agitate it all we'll get into this later that have different effects on the film so anyway all this to say I hope you found this useful and next time we're going to go into talking about what do you do once your film is developed well you basically have two options at this point you can make a print or you can scan your film and get into the digital domain inside your computer and we'll talk about that next time so anyway this has been the art of photography thanks for watching\n"