**Creating a Modern Square-Shaped Ceiling Lamp**

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Before I can show you all the super-fun mechanical and electrical work we had to go through, I need to firstly present you the blueprint of the ceiling lamp we had in mind. Basically, what we wanted to create is a big cuboid that features nine GU10 LED spots at the bottom and houses an RGB W LED strip on the top.

Sounds easier, but the details are where it got complicated. To create the depth of the cuboids, we used stacked-up wood laps with dimensions of 24 by 48 millimeters. For the bottom part, we used Bevo boards Rapids, which is a so-called light bulb platter, meaning it is lightweight, but can handle quite a bit of force.

Sadly though, it only came with dimensions of 1200 by 800 millimeters, so we had to get creative to achieve our designated dimension of 1.2 by 1.2 meters. But more about that later.

For the upper parts, we used a 19 millimeter fake piece of MDF, which was quite heavier but necessary because we wanted to house the RGB W LEDs inside this MDF piece.

**Building the Wood Structure**

We started off by opening up our wood laughs pack onto which we then created precisely measured markings to build wood squares. For that, we firstly used the jigsaw to create the eight required wood left pieces. We then marked a half complete square onto the MDF piece edges to build a hole for the starting point of the router.

Next, we used it to create the four indentation lines which together form the square. I marked a suitable length for the profiles and cut them with a simple handsaw. Afterwards, we utilized mounting adhesive to secure them inside the indentations.

**Housing the RGB W LED Strip**

I unpacked the RGB W LED kits with all of its components, which I got for cheap from eBay. After hooking it all up, I tested whether the remote works, and it did. I then tested the Wi-Fi control app, which worked beautifully as well.

So I created a hole next to the start LED strip through which I will later feed the wires. I continued by removing the acrylic glass top, measuring out the LED strips, cutting them, and securing them inside the profiles with Tisa pecks.

At the end, I had to connect all four individual strips through 0.75 millimeter wire. Otherwise, the following LED light-up tests would not have been successful. But since one test was not enough, I also tested the complete electrical system, which, as you can see, worked without a problem.

**Completing the Lamp**

Before joining the MDF boards to the lamp though, we created former wood left pieces, which we once again used to increase the stability of the structure. Once that was done, I drilled a big hole in the middle of the MDF ports and hooked up the LED power supply to the LEDs.

Finally, I positioned the MDF ports onto the lamp. Needless to say, we pre-drilled a ton of holes and used big wood screws to properly secure the MDF ports.

**Securing the Lamp**

Before we move the whole lamp over to a higher position, here we created a simple yet complicated mounting mechanic for the lamp which required a lot of measuring, cutting, drilling, mounting, and a lot of other interesting woodworking terms.

But let me break it down for you on paper so you understand how it works. We basically secured a piece of wood onto the ceiling which features four pieces of wood, which have a big hole in the center? Through this hole we can push this massive M14 threaded rods.

Now, the lamp cut a fitting wood construction with four pieces of wood as well, which we can use to interlock the lamp with the ceiling structure through the M14 rods easily. So as soon as these systems work together successfully, we mounted the ceiling part of its but not the lamp yet.

Because beforehand we added Barrow board Rapids all around the wood square-headed a bit of putty around the edges, sanded it down, and glued in grain wallpaper on the lamp to make it look good.

Once that was done, we lifted the lamp up that the mains voltage wiring and secured it to the ceiling. After then inserting all the GU10 LEDs, the lamp was finally complete.

I'm very happy with the results, and I hope it inspires you to build something similar on your own. If you like this video then don't forget to Like, share, and subscribe. Stay creative, and I will see you next time.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enIn this videoI will be showing you how to create this modern square-shaped ceiling lampthat utilizes nine gu10 LED spots for traditionalillumination purposes but additionally features an RGB AWA LED stripWhich is used for indirect mood lighting?the color of its can of course get adjusted by regular RF remotesBut also through a Wi-Fi control app, which is certainly handy to haveso sit back and enjoy the rather Lanfear an exhausting process ofCreating this ceiling lamp by me and my assistant in around five days of workLet's get startedThis video is sponsored by jl CPC be where you can get ten PCBs for the price of only two dollarsSo feel free to upload yokubou fights today to test out their PCB serviceNow before I can show you all the super-funMechanical and electrical work we had to go through. I need to firstly present you the blueprint of the ceiling lamp we had in mindsbasically puts we wanted to create a big cuboid which features nine le d-- spots at the bottom andhouses along LED strip on the topSounds easier but the details are where it got complicatedTo create the depth of the cuboids. We used stacked up wood laps with dimensions of 24 by 48 millimetersFor the bottom part we used Bevo boards Rapids, which is a so-called light bulb platterMeaning it is lights, but can handle quite a bit of forceSadly though. It only came with dimensions of1200 by 800 millimeters so we had to get creative to achieve our designated dimension of1.2 by 1.2 meters but more about that laterFor the upper parts. We used a 19 millimeter fake piece of MDFWhich was quite heavierBut necessary because we wanted to house the RGB W LEDs inside this MDF pieceflats whippet surfacenow what I could bore you even more with what lengths all of our screws guards orMore detailed information on how we achieve proper load balancing or what kind of components are necessary for the electrical wiringBut for now, you should get the basic idea of the lamp. So let's get started buildingWe started off by opening up our wood laughs packOnto which we then created precisely measured markings to build - wood squaresfor that we firstly used the jigsaw to create the eight required wood left pieces andThen formed a square with the first four of themBy using those brackets and a 2.5 millimeter drillwe firstly pre-drilled holes and then used wood screws to join all the wood laughs together asSoon as the first square was done. It was time to repeat the brackets mounting process in order to form the second squareBefore joining them though. I added a bigger wood screw for stability through all edge connectionsAfterwards, we stacked up the two squares and combined them by using 16 longer screwsAt this point we broaden the first there Hobart RapidsWhich as you can imagine we secured to the wood square with tons of screwsAfter marking evenly spaced locations for themThen we positioned the second parts marked where we need to cut it and used a jigsaw for that which worked surprisingly wellAfter a demoting adhesive, we push the boards together and secure the second one with screws as wellto properly spaced the LED spotswe created a 4x4 checker boards onto the now acquired complete bottom boards andUsed a sixty eight millimeter else Kaiser for which I could not find a proper English translation (Hole saw)In order to create the holes for the metal housing of the gu10 LED spots afterAll nine holes were createdwe measured outs and cuts tumor would lapse which we positioned inside the square andSecure them to its to improve its stabilityOnce the bevel board Rapids was mounted to those wood pieces as wellIt was time for the electrical wiring work which requires quite a bit of materialThe process was simple though. I firstly pushed the GU 10 socket wires into a small distribution boxEdit vago terminals to them pushed NIMH wire into the same boxEdit the life and neutral wire to one voter minal each and closed the box upWhy this work looks simple?It is important to note though that it should be done by professional electrician. You have been warnedBut anyway once all nine boxes were wired upI added 11 holes to a bigger terminal box, which I then mounted to one in a wood. LaughsAfter then pushing nine smaller terminal box virus into the bigger oneI used Vargo terminals once again and to connect poor neutral and life virus in parallelat the end of this wiring processI removed these sockets of the LED power supply cableRemoved the insulation of its virus and added those to the Vaako terminals along with an additionalhookup wire which I prepared before handsAs soon as all the wiring was completesI closed up the terminal box and finally moved on to the big MDF boardsFor which I firstly needed another box thoughWhich contained aluminum profiles with a milky white acrylic top for the LED strips?Those featured a height of 8 millimeters and width of 40 millimetersWhich were important dimensions for the groove cutter I choseBy adding it to a hand router. I was able to create a very precise indentationWhich can take in the aluminum profile and thus create a first surface very neatso I marked a half complete square onto the MDF piece edges to build a hole for the starting point of the router andThen used it to create the four indentation lines which together form the squareNext I marked a suitable length for the profiles and cut them with a simple handsawAfterwards, we utilized mounting adhesive to secure them inside the indentationsAt this point I unpacked the RGB W LED kits with all of its componentsWhich I got for cheap from eBayAfter hooking it all up. I tested whether the remote works which he did andAfterwards tested the Wi-Fi control app which worked beautifully as wellso I created a hole next to the start LED strip through which I will later feed the wires andContinued by removing the acrylic glass topMeasuring out the LED strips cutting them and securing them inside the profiles with Tisa pecksAt the end I had to connect all four individual strips through0.75 millimeter wireOtherwise the following LED light-up tests would not have been successfulBut since one test was not enoughI also tested the complete electrical system, which as you can see you work without a problemBefore joining the MDF boards to the lamp thoughWe created former wood left pieces, which we once again used to increase the stability of the structureOnce that was doneI drilled a big hole in the middle of the MDF ports hooked up the LED power supply to the LEDs andFinally positioned the MDF ports on to the lampNeedless to say we pre drilled a ton of holes and used big wood screws to properly secure the MDF portsBefore we move the whole lamp over to a higher positionHere we created a simple yet complicated mounting mechanic for the lamp which required a lot of measuringCutting drilling mounting and a lot of other interesting woodworking termsBut let me break it down for you on paper. So you understand how it worksWe basically secured a piece of woods onto the ceiling which features four pieces of woodsWhich have a big hole in the center?Through this hole we can push this massive m14 threaded rodsNow the lamp cut a fitting wood construction with four pieces of wood as wellWhich we can use to interlock the lamp with the ceiling structure through the m14 rods easySo as soon as these systems work together, successfully we mounted the ceiling part of its but not the lamp yetBecause beforehand we added Barrow board Rapids all around the wood square-headed a bit of putty around the edgesSanded it down and glued in grain wallpaper on the lamp to make it look goodOnce that was done. We lifted the lamp up that the mains voltage wiring and secured it to the ceilingAfter then inserting all the GU 10 LEDs the lamp was finally completeNow I'm very happy with the results and I hope it inspires you to build something similar on your ownIf you like this video then don't forget to Like share and subscribeStay creative and I will see you next time