"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhey everyone we are here with a Titan XP the actual Titan XP with the lowercase p as in the brand new one $1,200 video card this was sent to us on loan by a reader Grant thank you for sending that over and for him we are going to be converting this into a hybrid card so that'll give us some extra clock Headroom stabilize things a bit and we'll have a full review and all that stuff online as well but uh this is going to be a tear down so part one we're taking it apart looking at the PCB and we'll be talking about the components on it a little bit and then part two building it up which will be partly a guide for a hyrid mod part three will be the results on how it has improved with the liquid cooling kit so before get into that this is brought to you by ifixit.com you can use code Gamers Nexus to get $5 off of any toolkit purchase from iix it we have a few of things on the table I'll be using today like this uh magnetic project mat very useful for putting the screws out as you remove them from the car so that you don't lose where they go cuz they are many different sizes with these Titan and 1080 class cards that's just how Nvidia decided to do it uh so we'll be using that let's get started with this this thing first of all uh this is a reference design there are only reference designs for these Titan XP cards as far as we know right now anyway and things are pretty standard from the outside there's a bit of red tinting on the PCB I suppose that's different but otherwise uh no DVI so that simplifies to tear down a bit we won't need to use the 3 something mm uh hex to remove that and the rest is going to be uh 1.5 and 2 mm uh tools to remove everything so Allen Keys Phillips heads stuff like that nothing too crazy but specific enough that you would need to make sure you have the stuff before you start because Nvidia doesn't use just Phillips for everything they they put a whole bunch of Allen keys on here so we're going to start with with removing the back plate and once we get the back plate off we can start pulling off the cooler and then we can take apart the top side of the cooler with that completely separated from the rest uh so I'm going to grab a small Phillips head to start with to remove these tiny screws on the back side and then we will go from there okay so back plate is split into two pieces for die casting reasons so they cast two different pieces and split them and that means we can remove this one now this is not really that functional of a plate you can see there's actually one spot where there's thermal thermal contact between a pad uh but otherwise it's just for looks maybe a little bit of structural support it's not even really contacting anything on the card so this is primarily a looks thing so we've removed that that was just a few of those Phillips screws once we get in there uh we now have some of these hex heads and these are actually kind of annoying to remove so we'll save those for a minute later from now get the rest of these Phillips out and these you need to be really careful with when putting them back in because I'll put this in that section because when you're putting these screws back in if you go one tick past where they feel pretty secure they will snap as we've learned from experience so be careful about that because uh you're you're not going to have an easy time finding Replacements if you need them back plate okay so now we just have the big screws that are connected to the expansion the cover the expansion slot pull those okay so those are the two big ones they hook through the back plate through these hooks on the plate and then into the front side of the cooler and now we can start removing the tiny ones and then the four Big Spring tangent ones will do last so that is a size four 4 mm it looks like so all these do is hook into the bottom side of the cooler on the well the cooler and the Shroud this connects to the heat sink directly these connect to the Shroud and the base plate and the smaller Phillips heads we took out of them are strictly for the back plate they serve no other purpose so once we've got these out plus the four that secure the heat sink proper with the vapor chamber will be able to separate the cooler and the Shroud from the PCB the GPU the stuff we care about and is that all of them that that's all of them so how many screws is that 10 12 14 so 14 of those 4 mm and then we've got another two over here so 16 total * 2 is more or less you're at about 30 screws just to get the back plate and the card separated and we need to do these four now so grab a big Phillips I like to cover I I sort of partly remove these and then I cover them that way they don't go flying cuz they will uh they will fly out once you're down to one or two of these okay cool let's go ahead and remove this uh cover plate back here these are all over here now we should be able to separate the card I like to do this with the PCB down to keep as many thermal pads where I want them as possible so here we go this looks pretty similar to the 1080 TI Founders Edition PCB and cooler for that matter this looks like a nickel plated copper uh called plate so nickel plated and that's making direct contact with the GPU this is the biggest Pascal GPU that's out there right now for consumers anyway vram contact pads these are your thermal pads for the vram modules and this time unlike the 1080 TI we actually have 12 so 4 8 12 normally this one right here is missing for the 1080 TI but it's actually present on this cuz we have 12 GB of gddr5x memory and then in terms of everything else this is your fan header down here this is your power for the LED so that powers this GeForce GTX LED and then for the fats and things like that we still have Fair child fats are they the same ones DH zy okay so looked it up some of these parts are a bit different than on 1080ti Founders Edition PCB we will look into having the board analyzed separately one part that is definitely the same the E6 930 uh fets for the memory vrm up here at the top of the board which you can see our 108ti Founders Edition PCB analysis to learn more about those and now we're just going to clean off the GPU proper to get it prepped for the hybrid mod which will be the buildup process and there is the reveal of gp102 uh and for those who care it's gp102 d450 and we're an A1 rev which means it is probably the first production ready consumer ready rev of the GPU of the Silicon okay so there's the GPU we've got the memory from Micron as expected 11 gigabit per second capable and the fets we'll look at separately fan connector power connector couple shunts on the board you can see one right here one up here and those are 5 milliohm shunts one down here as well if you wanted to do a shunt mod you could short and uh and try and get some extra power delivery backside nothing special really small crappy thermal pad here for contact with the uh the back plate but otherwise that's it so we're in a position now where we can uh start building it up as the hybrid mod and get things going for Grant so that he can use this for machine learning and things like that check back shortly for part two where we'll do the build up if you haven't seen those before this will show you how to do it on your own and it applies for the 1080 TI 1080 even the some of the reference AMD cards though the steps are little different but the same idea so uh that's it thank you for watching as always subscribe for more patreon.com Gamers Nexus to helps out directly you can go to store. Gamers nexus.net to grab shirts or use coupon code Gamers Nexus for $5 off at ifixit.com and we'll see you all next timehey everyone we are here with a Titan XP the actual Titan XP with the lowercase p as in the brand new one $1,200 video card this was sent to us on loan by a reader Grant thank you for sending that over and for him we are going to be converting this into a hybrid card so that'll give us some extra clock Headroom stabilize things a bit and we'll have a full review and all that stuff online as well but uh this is going to be a tear down so part one we're taking it apart looking at the PCB and we'll be talking about the components on it a little bit and then part two building it up which will be partly a guide for a hyrid mod part three will be the results on how it has improved with the liquid cooling kit so before get into that this is brought to you by ifixit.com you can use code Gamers Nexus to get $5 off of any toolkit purchase from iix it we have a few of things on the table I'll be using today like this uh magnetic project mat very useful for putting the screws out as you remove them from the car so that you don't lose where they go cuz they are many different sizes with these Titan and 1080 class cards that's just how Nvidia decided to do it uh so we'll be using that let's get started with this this thing first of all uh this is a reference design there are only reference designs for these Titan XP cards as far as we know right now anyway and things are pretty standard from the outside there's a bit of red tinting on the PCB I suppose that's different but otherwise uh no DVI so that simplifies to tear down a bit we won't need to use the 3 something mm uh hex to remove that and the rest is going to be uh 1.5 and 2 mm uh tools to remove everything so Allen Keys Phillips heads stuff like that nothing too crazy but specific enough that you would need to make sure you have the stuff before you start because Nvidia doesn't use just Phillips for everything they they put a whole bunch of Allen keys on here so we're going to start with with removing the back plate and once we get the back plate off we can start pulling off the cooler and then we can take apart the top side of the cooler with that completely separated from the rest uh so I'm going to grab a small Phillips head to start with to remove these tiny screws on the back side and then we will go from there okay so back plate is split into two pieces for die casting reasons so they cast two different pieces and split them and that means we can remove this one now this is not really that functional of a plate you can see there's actually one spot where there's thermal thermal contact between a pad uh but otherwise it's just for looks maybe a little bit of structural support it's not even really contacting anything on the card so this is primarily a looks thing so we've removed that that was just a few of those Phillips screws once we get in there uh we now have some of these hex heads and these are actually kind of annoying to remove so we'll save those for a minute later from now get the rest of these Phillips out and these you need to be really careful with when putting them back in because I'll put this in that section because when you're putting these screws back in if you go one tick past where they feel pretty secure they will snap as we've learned from experience so be careful about that because uh you're you're not going to have an easy time finding Replacements if you need them back plate okay so now we just have the big screws that are connected to the expansion the cover the expansion slot pull those okay so those are the two big ones they hook through the back plate through these hooks on the plate and then into the front side of the cooler and now we can start removing the tiny ones and then the four Big Spring tangent ones will do last so that is a size four 4 mm it looks like so all these do is hook into the bottom side of the cooler on the well the cooler and the Shroud this connects to the heat sink directly these connect to the Shroud and the base plate and the smaller Phillips heads we took out of them are strictly for the back plate they serve no other purpose so once we've got these out plus the four that secure the heat sink proper with the vapor chamber will be able to separate the cooler and the Shroud from the PCB the GPU the stuff we care about and is that all of them that that's all of them so how many screws is that 10 12 14 so 14 of those 4 mm and then we've got another two over here so 16 total * 2 is more or less you're at about 30 screws just to get the back plate and the card separated and we need to do these four now so grab a big Phillips I like to cover I I sort of partly remove these and then I cover them that way they don't go flying cuz they will uh they will fly out once you're down to one or two of these okay cool let's go ahead and remove this uh cover plate back here these are all over here now we should be able to separate the card I like to do this with the PCB down to keep as many thermal pads where I want them as possible so here we go this looks pretty similar to the 1080 TI Founders Edition PCB and cooler for that matter this looks like a nickel plated copper uh called plate so nickel plated and that's making direct contact with the GPU this is the biggest Pascal GPU that's out there right now for consumers anyway vram contact pads these are your thermal pads for the vram modules and this time unlike the 1080 TI we actually have 12 so 4 8 12 normally this one right here is missing for the 1080 TI but it's actually present on this cuz we have 12 GB of gddr5x memory and then in terms of everything else this is your fan header down here this is your power for the LED so that powers this GeForce GTX LED and then for the fats and things like that we still have Fair child fats are they the same ones DH zy okay so looked it up some of these parts are a bit different than on 1080ti Founders Edition PCB we will look into having the board analyzed separately one part that is definitely the same the E6 930 uh fets for the memory vrm up here at the top of the board which you can see our 108ti Founders Edition PCB analysis to learn more about those and now we're just going to clean off the GPU proper to get it prepped for the hybrid mod which will be the buildup process and there is the reveal of gp102 uh and for those who care it's gp102 d450 and we're an A1 rev which means it is probably the first production ready consumer ready rev of the GPU of the Silicon okay so there's the GPU we've got the memory from Micron as expected 11 gigabit per second capable and the fets we'll look at separately fan connector power connector couple shunts on the board you can see one right here one up here and those are 5 milliohm shunts one down here as well if you wanted to do a shunt mod you could short and uh and try and get some extra power delivery backside nothing special really small crappy thermal pad here for contact with the uh the back plate but otherwise that's it so we're in a position now where we can uh start building it up as the hybrid mod and get things going for Grant so that he can use this for machine learning and things like that check back shortly for part two where we'll do the build up if you haven't seen those before this will show you how to do it on your own and it applies for the 1080 TI 1080 even the some of the reference AMD cards though the steps are little different but the same idea so uh that's it thank you for watching as always subscribe for more patreon.com Gamers Nexus to helps out directly you can go to store. Gamers nexus.net to grab shirts or use coupon code Gamers Nexus for $5 off at ifixit.com and we'll see you all next time\n"