**My Experience with the Delta 3D Printer Kit: A Comprehensive Guide**

As I embarked on building my Delta 3D printer kit, I was excited to see how it would turn out. The process began with gathering all the necessary parts and plugging them in, which included using a USB stick containing the assembly manual in my laptop. The build process was available as a commented picture slideshow or as a definitive video series, which I preferred. With its help, I was able to complete the build within 4-5 hours, a relatively fast pace compared to my previous 3D printer kit builds.

The mechanical instructions were clear and easy to understand, making it simple to get the aluminum tubes into place, mount the motors, or attach the extruder assembly to the Zed axis. Precision measuring was only necessary once, ensuring that the top plate had an even distance to the print pad. The wiring instructions were also straightforward, at least until a certain point, as it wasn't mentioned how to hook up the fan of the extruder. Thankfully, though, the electronic system was built around an Arduino Mega with RAM Shields, which is open-source, making it easy to find wiring diagrams or necessary firmware changes to customize my Delta printer.

As I finished the assembly by tidying up the wiring, I noticed two significant improvements. Firstly, due to the three Z-axis, the electronics and filament could stick very well on top of the printer, making it a reliable machine. In comparison to my old printer, the measurements in the X and Y axes were around 10 cm smaller. Secondly, due to the hidden wiring, the printer itself looked more pleasant to the eye, without the chaos of wires on the side that might even get in the way of working.

After uploading the given firmware to the Arduino, I started the RapidHor software and configured the printer and slicer settings according to the manufacturer's recommendations. The almost last remaining step before my first test print was the so-called M666 calibration, which is necessary because the height of all the end switches is never completely the same. By manually adding an offset for each individual axis with the M666 command, I ensured that the distance between the nozzle and the bed would be even for all X and Y positions at the end.

Next was the auto-level feature, which gets activated by placing the G29 command in the start gcode section. For this, the inductive sensor needs to be positioned 1 mm away from the end of the nozzle. It wasn't easy to find the sweet spots during the first try, but with a couple of adjustments, it should work out just fine.

During my first test prints, I noticed that the quality was already better than everything I printed with my old 3D printer. However, a small problem occurred with larger prints - the so-called warping, which lifts off the edges. This can be solved with different approaches, and I simply went with a heated bed.

A problem arose when trying to connect the 12V wiring for this particular bed, as it drew easily above 8 amps, which my power supply couldn't offer. Luckily, though, the 24V wiring only drew around 2.1 amps at 12 volts and also reached a temperature of almost 50°C, good enough for PLA.

To solve this issue, I marked the outline of my old bed's sensor out on my new one in this outline, drilled necessary holes, soldered out wires to the heated beds, secured this wire and the temperature sensor with Kevlar tape, screwed the bed in place, used zip ties to secure the wires to a tube, and finally connected them to the RAM Shields by adjusting the firmware to turn on the necessary digital pin and uploading it once again.

I was finally capable of using the heated beds to print on, and I have to say that all the test prints I did after this modification came out flawlessly. In conclusion, I can recommend this kit to everyone who likes to tinker and wants to have a decent printer with a success rate of around one out of two prints.

I hope you liked this video and understood the basics of 3D printing with a Delta printer. Don't forget to like, share, and subscribe - it would be awesome! Consider supporting me through my Patreon campaign in order to see such videos coming. Stay creative, and I will see you next time.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enin the previous video I showed you how easy it seems and how difficult it can get to enter the 3D printing world with a DIY rip WP crua I3 kit which is a lot cheaper nowadays if I compare it to back then but over time I noticed that the acrylic frame falls apart the belts lose their tension way too fast the moving bed rips off its own wires and the extruder is always clocked thankfully though I found something new that honestly exceeded my expectations this DIY Delta 3D printer kit uses three individually controllable Z AES to move the extruder around instead of the classical X Y and Z AIS types and in this video I will present you the advantages of this technique regarding the design choices mixed with all the experiences I collected during the builds modifications and the actual prints let's get started after ordering the kit online I received this huge package around one week later inside I found all the necessary mechanical and electrical parts safely packaged and while I checked whether all the components are really there with the app of a parts list I already noticed the first big Improvement the power supply this one offers 10 amps at 12 volts which is not the main enhancement it's the fact that it comes without allowed built-in fan which I really appreciate but I will surely not use the included universal plug adapter that looks like a death trap another obvious Improvement is the material of the frame itself aluminum even though there are a couple of scratches impurities and even a shoe print on the material I'm still confident that this Frame will last a whole lot longer than my frame while looking like a sturdy and trustworthy machine after I was finished Gathering all the parts I plugged in the given you spe stick which contains the assembly manual into my laptop the build process is available as a commented picture slideshow or as a definitive video series which I do prefer with its help I was capable of completing the build within 4 to 5 hours which is relatively fast if I compare it to my previous 3D printer kit build the mechanical instructions are clear and easy to understand like getting the aluminum tubes into place mounting the motors or attaching the extruder assly to The Zed AIS and precision measuring is only necessary one time while making sure that the top plate has an even distance to the print pad the wiring instructions are also easy to follow at least until a certain point because it is not mentioned how to hook up the fan of the extruder thankfully though the electronic system is built around aino Mega with a ram Shields which is open source that means it is not a problem to find wiring diagrams or necessary firmware changes to customize your Delta printer while finishing the assembly by tidying up the wiring I also noticed two more big improvements firstly due to the three Z axis the electronics and the filament can stick very well on top of the printer which makes it all in all a rub toall machine but in comparison to my old one the measurements in the X and Y AIS are around 10 cm smaller secondly due to the hidden wiring the printer itself looks way more pleasant to the eye than having a wiring Chaos on the side that might even get in the way of working after uploading the given firmware to the uino I started the rapid hor software and configured the printer and slicer settings according to the manufacturer's recommendations the almost last remaining step before first test print is the so-called m666 calibration it is necessary because the height of all the end switches is never completely the same but by manually adding an offset for each individual axis with the m666 command the distance between the nozzle and the bat should be even for all the X and Y positions at the end and make sure to do this process carefully because it is the most important one and determines whether your Prince Will will work out or not next is the auto level feature which gets activated by placing the G29 command in the star chode section for that the inductive sensor needs to be positioned 1 mm away from the end of the nozzle it is not easy to find the sweet spots during the first try but with a couple of adjustments it should work out just fine and during my first test prints I noticed that the quality is already better than everything I printed with my old 3D printer but a small problem occurred with larger prints the so-called warping which lifts off the edges this can be solved with the help of different approaches and I simply went with a heated bat only problem was that the 12vt wiring for this particular bats draws easily above 8 amps which my power supply cannot offer because the extruder and motors need around 2 amps while printing luckily though the 24v wiring only draws around 2.1 amp at 12 volts and also reaches a temperature of almost 50° C which is good enough for pla so I marked the outline of my old beds Senter out my new one in this outline Dr the necessary holes sold out wires to the heated beds secured this wire and the temperature sensor with kept on tape screwed the bed in place use zip ties to secure the wires to a tube and finally connected them to the ram Shields by adjusting the firmware in order order to turn on the necessary digital pin and uploading it once again I was finally capable of using the heated beds to print on and I have to say that all the test prints I did after this modification came out flawlessly all in all I can recommend this kit to everyone who likes the tinker and wants to have a decent printer with a success rate of around one of two prints I hope you like this video and understood the basics of 3D printing with a Delta printer as always don't forget to like share and subscribe that would be awesome consider supporting me through my patreon campaign in order to see such videos coming stay creative and I will see you next timein the previous video I showed you how easy it seems and how difficult it can get to enter the 3D printing world with a DIY rip WP crua I3 kit which is a lot cheaper nowadays if I compare it to back then but over time I noticed that the acrylic frame falls apart the belts lose their tension way too fast the moving bed rips off its own wires and the extruder is always clocked thankfully though I found something new that honestly exceeded my expectations this DIY Delta 3D printer kit uses three individually controllable Z AES to move the extruder around instead of the classical X Y and Z AIS types and in this video I will present you the advantages of this technique regarding the design choices mixed with all the experiences I collected during the builds modifications and the actual prints let's get started after ordering the kit online I received this huge package around one week later inside I found all the necessary mechanical and electrical parts safely packaged and while I checked whether all the components are really there with the app of a parts list I already noticed the first big Improvement the power supply this one offers 10 amps at 12 volts which is not the main enhancement it's the fact that it comes without allowed built-in fan which I really appreciate but I will surely not use the included universal plug adapter that looks like a death trap another obvious Improvement is the material of the frame itself aluminum even though there are a couple of scratches impurities and even a shoe print on the material I'm still confident that this Frame will last a whole lot longer than my frame while looking like a sturdy and trustworthy machine after I was finished Gathering all the parts I plugged in the given you spe stick which contains the assembly manual into my laptop the build process is available as a commented picture slideshow or as a definitive video series which I do prefer with its help I was capable of completing the build within 4 to 5 hours which is relatively fast if I compare it to my previous 3D printer kit build the mechanical instructions are clear and easy to understand like getting the aluminum tubes into place mounting the motors or attaching the extruder assly to The Zed AIS and precision measuring is only necessary one time while making sure that the top plate has an even distance to the print pad the wiring instructions are also easy to follow at least until a certain point because it is not mentioned how to hook up the fan of the extruder thankfully though the electronic system is built around aino Mega with a ram Shields which is open source that means it is not a problem to find wiring diagrams or necessary firmware changes to customize your Delta printer while finishing the assembly by tidying up the wiring I also noticed two more big improvements firstly due to the three Z axis the electronics and the filament can stick very well on top of the printer which makes it all in all a rub toall machine but in comparison to my old one the measurements in the X and Y AIS are around 10 cm smaller secondly due to the hidden wiring the printer itself looks way more pleasant to the eye than having a wiring Chaos on the side that might even get in the way of working after uploading the given firmware to the uino I started the rapid hor software and configured the printer and slicer settings according to the manufacturer's recommendations the almost last remaining step before first test print is the so-called m666 calibration it is necessary because the height of all the end switches is never completely the same but by manually adding an offset for each individual axis with the m666 command the distance between the nozzle and the bat should be even for all the X and Y positions at the end and make sure to do this process carefully because it is the most important one and determines whether your Prince Will will work out or not next is the auto level feature which gets activated by placing the G29 command in the star chode section for that the inductive sensor needs to be positioned 1 mm away from the end of the nozzle it is not easy to find the sweet spots during the first try but with a couple of adjustments it should work out just fine and during my first test prints I noticed that the quality is already better than everything I printed with my old 3D printer but a small problem occurred with larger prints the so-called warping which lifts off the edges this can be solved with the help of different approaches and I simply went with a heated bat only problem was that the 12vt wiring for this particular bats draws easily above 8 amps which my power supply cannot offer because the extruder and motors need around 2 amps while printing luckily though the 24v wiring only draws around 2.1 amp at 12 volts and also reaches a temperature of almost 50° C which is good enough for pla so I marked the outline of my old beds Senter out my new one in this outline Dr the necessary holes sold out wires to the heated beds secured this wire and the temperature sensor with kept on tape screwed the bed in place use zip ties to secure the wires to a tube and finally connected them to the ram Shields by adjusting the firmware in order order to turn on the necessary digital pin and uploading it once again I was finally capable of using the heated beds to print on and I have to say that all the test prints I did after this modification came out flawlessly all in all I can recommend this kit to everyone who likes the tinker and wants to have a decent printer with a success rate of around one of two prints I hope you like this video and understood the basics of 3D printing with a Delta printer as always don't forget to like share and subscribe that would be awesome consider supporting me through my patreon campaign in order to see such videos coming stay creative and I will see you next time