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We can control with two pins of the Arduino first of all the reset pin gets pulled high and shortly after low again then with each cycle of pull high and low of the stroke pin we get our analog DC value on the output pin for each frequency starting with the low one all the way to the highest one we use the analog pin zero of the Arduino to measure those and store them in a variable where we can use them shortly after to generate a pwm signal on the pins 9 10 and 11 which then controls the Gate of our mous fets and lets the LEDs shine and don't worry if you don't understand the code immediately I commented every line to make it easier for you besides those mentioned parts we also use a couple of passive components to decouple the IC pull down the gates mix the audio signal and create 5 volts from 12 volts for the IC and 12 volts might not be the most efficient solution for these high power LEDs since we waste quite a bit of power through those beefy resistors but this way we can create very clean 5 volts for our sensitive ic's and we can also easily just hook up a common N Out RGB LED strip which is also an awesome variation okay now you know how it works so let's build it already firstly we need to add a bit of thermal paste onto the heat sinks of the LEDs then we can find out which side is the anode with the help of this little picture line up the plus solder pad with it and solder the both pins to the pads afterwards I added the 5 watt resistors to the positive side of the LEDs but make sure that red gets 33 ohms and the other to 30 ohms once this was done we can move on to the breadboard the layout has a couple of parts which do not represent the real life image of the components but the values are always given so it shouldn't be a problem for the wiring I used the solid 0.75 s mm wire which I just cut to the right size according how many gaps it needs to jump over plus a bit extra then I remove the isolation from the tips and bent them with p wires so that they can act as stable jumper wires this can take quite a while but once I was done with it I added the components to the right place according to the layout and connected the Arduino with flexible jumper wires now I can hook up my LEDs give the whole system power and connect my Arduino to a computer to upload the code if I use such a Y connector I can plug in my color organ and my speakers and see that everything works fine when we open the serial monitor we can also see the different voltage values from 0 to 255 for each frequency band left is low and right is high so far this build is great for experimenting but the breadboard is not really a stable design we can use the stripboard and layout to create something that lasts a lot longer this time we use Bridge wire for the connections but before we can use it correctly we have to straighten it with two pliers and a bit of force then we can bend one side put it in the hole count how many holes it needs to jump over grab it there again and bend it it takes a bit of practice but making such Bridges looks very nice in the end afterwards I used the hand drill to make all the interruptions in the coer traces but a simple drill bit would also work fine now all we need to do is solder the components to the board for starting with the low ones and working our way up to the higher ones we can finish this project by putting the label on the female headers and soldering those to the board and it is done well almost after I reconnected the alino and powered the system a problem appeared because of the PCB design the audio line picks up some high frequent noises which lets the blue LED go crazy but we can easily sold this by replacing the 22 kiloohm audio resistors with Bridge wire this might not be the proper way to mix audio signals but it works like a charm and finally we can enjoy the awesome music visualization of our circuit I hope you enjoyed this project if so don't forget to check out the kit like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next time

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enin my very first video back in 2013 I showed you how to build this uino LED color organ which reacts to different frequencies in your music with light shows in my case red is the base green the middle frequencies and blew the high notes But as time passed on quite a lot of people had all kinds of problems with this project being it the wiring the coat or the components and I agree that hunting for materials can be really frustrating because even I once received a couple of fake ic's which didn't do what they were supposed to do in the color organ circuit so I teamed up with mkac to create this kit which make things a lot easier and in this video I will show you how the circuit works and how to build it easily on a breadboard or a stripboard let's get started first of all let's have a look at the package and to be fair this is not the final design it will look a bit different and will also include the schematic RedBoard layout and stripboard layout inside the back you will find all the core components nicely labeled except for the breadboard uino and a 12vt 2m power supply but those can be found quite cheaply online and I put the links to them in the instructables article for this project now let's take a look at the schematic it might look confusing but let me explain the core of the build is this MSG Q7 I which uses seven band pass filters in combination with a peak detector which only lets a certain frequency en close ones nearby pass through we go through those seven bands with a frequency of around 165 khz by using a 30 picofarad and 200 kohm resistor for the clock signal but since we only have one output the IC has a built-in multiplexer which we can control with two pins of the Arduino first of all the reset pin gets pulled high and shortly after low again then with each cycle of pull high and low of the stroke pin we get our analog DC value on the output pin for each frequency starting with the low one all the way to the highest one we use the analog pin zero of the Arduino to measure those and store them in a variable where we can use them shortly after to generate a pwm signal on the pins 9 10 and 11 which then controls the Gate of our mous fets and lets the LEDs shine and don't worry if you don't understand the code immediately I commented every line to make it easier for you besides those mentioned parts we also use a a couple of passive components to decouple the IC pull down the gates mix the audio signal and create 5 volts from 12 volts for the IC and 12 volts might not be the most efficient solution for these high power LEDs since we waste quite a bit of power through those beefy resistors but this way we can create very clean 5 volts for our sensitive ic's and we can also easily just hook up a common N Out RGB LED strip which is also an awesome variation okay now you know how it works so let's build it already firstly we need to add a bit of thermal paste onto the heat sinks of the LEDs then we can find out which side is the anode with the help of this little picture line up the plus solder pad with it and solder the both pins to the pads afterwards I added the 5 watt resistors to the positive side of the LEDs but make sure that red get 33 ohms and the other to 30 ohms once this was done we can move on to the breadboard the layout has a couple of Parts which do not represent the real life image of the components but the values are always given so it shouldn't be a problem for the wiring I used the solid 0.75 s mm wire which I just cut to the right size according to how many gaps it needs to jump over plus a bit extra then I remove the isolation from the tips and bent them with p wires so that they can act as stable jumper wires this can take quite a while but once I was done with it I added the components to the right place according to the layout and connected the Arduino with flexible jumper wires now I can hook up my LEDs give the whole system power and connect my Arduino to a computer to upload the code if I use such a Y connector I can plug in my color organ and my speakers and see that everything works fine when we open the serial monitor we can also see the different voltage values from 0 to 255 for each frequency band left is low and right is high so far this build is great for experimenting but the breadboard is not really a stable design we can use the stripboard and layout to create something that lasts a lot longer this time we use Bridge wire for the connections but before we can use it correctly we have to straighten it with two pliers and a bit of force then we can bend one side put it in the hole count how many holes it needs to jump over grab it there again and bend it it takes a bit of practice but making such Bridges looks very nice in the end afterwards I used the hand drill to make all the interruptions in the coer traces but a simple drill bit would also work fine now all we need to do is solder the components to the board for starting with the low ones and working our way up to the higher ones we can finish this project by putting the label on the female headers and soldering those to the board and it is done well almost after I reconnected the alino and powered the system a problem appeared because of the PCB design the audio line picks up some high frequent noises which lets the blue LED go crazy but we can easily sold this by replacing the 22 kiloohm audio resistors with Bridge wire this might not be the proper way to mix audio signals but it works like a charm and finally we can enjoy the awesome music visualization of our circuit I hope you enjoyed this project if so don't forget to check out the kit like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next timein my very first video back in 2013 I showed you how to build this uino LED color organ which reacts to different frequencies in your music with light shows in my case red is the base green the middle frequencies and blew the high notes But as time passed on quite a lot of people had all kinds of problems with this project being it the wiring the coat or the components and I agree that hunting for materials can be really frustrating because even I once received a couple of fake ic's which didn't do what they were supposed to do in the color organ circuit so I teamed up with mkac to create this kit which make things a lot easier and in this video I will show you how the circuit works and how to build it easily on a breadboard or a stripboard let's get started first of all let's have a look at the package and to be fair this is not the final design it will look a bit different and will also include the schematic RedBoard layout and stripboard layout inside the back you will find all the core components nicely labeled except for the breadboard uino and a 12vt 2m power supply but those can be found quite cheaply online and I put the links to them in the instructables article for this project now let's take a look at the schematic it might look confusing but let me explain the core of the build is this MSG Q7 I which uses seven band pass filters in combination with a peak detector which only lets a certain frequency en close ones nearby pass through we go through those seven bands with a frequency of around 165 khz by using a 30 picofarad and 200 kohm resistor for the clock signal but since we only have one output the IC has a built-in multiplexer which we can control with two pins of the Arduino first of all the reset pin gets pulled high and shortly after low again then with each cycle of pull high and low of the stroke pin we get our analog DC value on the output pin for each frequency starting with the low one all the way to the highest one we use the analog pin zero of the Arduino to measure those and store them in a variable where we can use them shortly after to generate a pwm signal on the pins 9 10 and 11 which then controls the Gate of our mous fets and lets the LEDs shine and don't worry if you don't understand the code immediately I commented every line to make it easier for you besides those mentioned parts we also use a a couple of passive components to decouple the IC pull down the gates mix the audio signal and create 5 volts from 12 volts for the IC and 12 volts might not be the most efficient solution for these high power LEDs since we waste quite a bit of power through those beefy resistors but this way we can create very clean 5 volts for our sensitive ic's and we can also easily just hook up a common N Out RGB LED strip which is also an awesome variation okay now you know how it works so let's build it already firstly we need to add a bit of thermal paste onto the heat sinks of the LEDs then we can find out which side is the anode with the help of this little picture line up the plus solder pad with it and solder the both pins to the pads afterwards I added the 5 watt resistors to the positive side of the LEDs but make sure that red get 33 ohms and the other to 30 ohms once this was done we can move on to the breadboard the layout has a couple of Parts which do not represent the real life image of the components but the values are always given so it shouldn't be a problem for the wiring I used the solid 0.75 s mm wire which I just cut to the right size according to how many gaps it needs to jump over plus a bit extra then I remove the isolation from the tips and bent them with p wires so that they can act as stable jumper wires this can take quite a while but once I was done with it I added the components to the right place according to the layout and connected the Arduino with flexible jumper wires now I can hook up my LEDs give the whole system power and connect my Arduino to a computer to upload the code if I use such a Y connector I can plug in my color organ and my speakers and see that everything works fine when we open the serial monitor we can also see the different voltage values from 0 to 255 for each frequency band left is low and right is high so far this build is great for experimenting but the breadboard is not really a stable design we can use the stripboard and layout to create something that lasts a lot longer this time we use Bridge wire for the connections but before we can use it correctly we have to straighten it with two pliers and a bit of force then we can bend one side put it in the hole count how many holes it needs to jump over grab it there again and bend it it takes a bit of practice but making such Bridges looks very nice in the end afterwards I used the hand drill to make all the interruptions in the coer traces but a simple drill bit would also work fine now all we need to do is solder the components to the board for starting with the low ones and working our way up to the higher ones we can finish this project by putting the label on the female headers and soldering those to the board and it is done well almost after I reconnected the alino and powered the system a problem appeared because of the PCB design the audio line picks up some high frequent noises which lets the blue LED go crazy but we can easily sold this by replacing the 22 kiloohm audio resistors with Bridge wire this might not be the proper way to mix audio signals but it works like a charm and finally we can enjoy the awesome music visualization of our circuit I hope you enjoyed this project if so don't forget to check out the kit like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next time