The Challenges of Rebuilding a Porsche 911 Engine: A Journey to Perfection

As I stood before the engine, I couldn't help but feel a sense of trepidation. The engine had been struggling for some time, and it was clear that it needed a major overhaul. But as I began to disassemble the engine, I realized just how daunting the task would be.

The first step in rebuilding the engine was to remove the pistons. This proved to be a delicate process, as the piston rings were tightly fitted into their cylinders. To avoid damaging them, I carefully applied a small amount of pressure with a tap, just enough to loosen the ring and allow it to come out. The piston itself came out relatively easily, but I could see that the bearings were in poor condition. They were worn down, causing the engine to run hot and putting excessive stress on the surrounding components.

As I continued to work on the engine, I noticed that several of the pistons had bearing rings with gouges in them. These imperfections were caused by debris accumulating within the bearing, which was creating high spots and low spots on the surface of the ring. This would cause friction and wear on the moving parts, leading to premature failure.

I also found that some of the bearings had material missing from their coatings, which meant that they were rubbing against the piston skirt instead of being properly lubricated by oil. This lack of clearance would cause the bearing to spin quickly, creating a high-pitched whine as it wore down. I carefully removed each bearing and inspected them for damage.

The good news was that several of the pistons came out relatively easily, but one bearing proved to be more challenging than expected. It had been damaged by debris from within the bearing, causing it to become warped and worn down. This would have likely caused the engine to seize up or suffer catastrophic failure if not addressed promptly.

Once I had removed all of the bearings, I was able to inspect them for damage. The ones that were most severely damaged would need to be replaced entirely, as they could no longer function properly. I also found several small specks of debris within some of the bearings, which would have caused high spots and low spots on their surfaces.

The next step in rebuilding the engine was to source new pistons and rods. This proved to be a daunting task, as the original components were no longer available. The PCA (Porsche Club of America) had taken steps to acquire some spare parts, but it would still take time and effort to find everything needed for the rebuild.

The rods were the biggest challenge in finding replacement parts. Because they are custom-made to fit each engine's specifications, it was difficult to find a casting that matched the original dimensions. This meant that the rod builders would have to create new tooling to produce a replacement rod, which added significant time and expense to the rebuild.

Despite the challenges, I remained optimistic about the project. With the right parts and the right attitude, I was confident that we could build an engine that exceeded my expectations. The journey ahead would be long and arduous, but with patience and perseverance, we could create something truly special.

As I looked at the engine, now laid bare before me, I couldn't help but feel a sense of excitement. We had the opportunity to build from scratch, to create an engine that was tailored to our specific needs and desires. It wouldn't be easy, but with the right tools and the right expertise, I knew we could achieve greatness.

The next step in the rebuild would be to source new parts and begin construction. With a focus on precision and attention to detail, we could bring this project to life. The journey ahead would be long and challenging, but with determination and hard work, we could create something truly remarkable.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enI need to have this B12 Ferrari engine completely torn down by the end of the day I need to see what's going on inside of this engine so we can start the process of ordering parts getting custom things made we only have 82 days before this engine needs to be in this car completely done running shredding tires at the SEMA show that is a huge undertaking in a very short amount of time we need to get going on it right away so the first step is to get this engine onto an engine stand if you remember we tried to save some money and buy the cheapest engine stand at Harbor Freight that was a terrible idea and a complete waste of money because there's no way that that's going to work then we bought the best engine stand that they had that didn't work either it was teeter-tottering on that stand I need to make a custom adapter that's going to bolt onto the back of this engine and bolt onto that engine stand that's going to hold it securely so I'm going to get started on that right away first step is to measure the studs that are coming off the back of the engine get on the computer and draw them up in CAD and then create the sketch outline of what the Plate's going to look like I've got the part all designed I'm going to send this file over to the plasma table and then we'll be able to cut it out I got the part design file and the jacaran plasma table we got a piece of 316 Steel in there and we're going to cut it out so we should be good to go foreign nice clean cut it's gonna sandwich this plate in between the engine and the engine stand so I'm gonna make sure this fits if it looks good then I'm going to cut another one out so I can sandwich two of them together and give it a little more stiffness yeah overall looks good make sure these will fit here those look good all right put another one out we'll get this thing bolted together all right so we got our plates cut out so we've got two of them stacked together and bolt this thing up get it onto the engine stand and hopefully it will be nice and solid and we can start tearing this thing apart all right we're going to take the engine over to two post lift use some ratchet straps strap it on try to lift it up and hopefully all will go our way we are clear it looks pretty stable we've got the two plates that we made sandwiched together see if it works it is top heavy for sure right now with the heads on gonna go down see if it works it's still a bit sketchy but I think we're just gonna roll with it I'm not really excited about it it's three Wheeling well that just means that we need to get the heads off as quickly as possible this F12 build is absolutely insane Roundup build there's so much left to do on this car but sometimes I just need to take a break I take my mind off of things that's why I'm happy to say that today's sponsor is my Konami slot machine Tim faster my chair please sometimes it's good to just get off your feet for a minute and uh play some slots join millions of slot players and win big at my Konami slots the official Konami Casino anytime you feel the need for a little Casino fun or a quick win my Konami features some of your favorite slot machines straight off the casino floor jump in jalapenos China mystery Lotus land lion Festival star watch magma and many more come on play top Social Casino games at my economy slots play free games earn points level up get rewards food and drinks rides and attractions Cruise vacations and more one two three spin foreign this free social casino game is constantly getting new slot machines which means that you can continually find new favorites play free now and get 2 million free chips welcome bonus and a 10 million special bonus exclusively from the link in the description or by scanning the QR code line is not coming off and I'm worried about shaking the engine around it's like very very sketchy on the stand I'm trying to figure out how this comes apart we've got a water pump but also drives the oil pump since there's a snap ring here I'm thinking maybe I need to put the snap ring off and slide this back and it'll pop out and there's this other connection here basically the oil Outlet I think I might need to add a bracket on I took that off I need to slide this down and that will let me take the oil pump off but that's just a guess I don't really know how this comes apart so try to not mess it up but get it off quickly foreign pump is fighting me a bit I mean so far it's been a bit of a struggle like every piece of Hardware is a different size they're using five millimeter six millimeter 12 millimeter bolts in between it's just a lot of stuff going on here it's kind of a weird design trying to get this thing apart as quickly as possible but also not damage anything in the process because like I said it's really hard to get parts for this thing well I think I'm just going to leave this thing for now because it doesn't seem like it wants to come out it's got a uh a long shaft that's driven off of here that drives the oil pump and we got it slid back a bunch but it's still engaged oil filter housing in the way so I can't slide it back anymore maybe when I pull the oil pan on it'll all come out together and maybe that's the way it's supposed to go I'm gonna move on to something else valve covers should be ready to come off they're a little bit sticky so I'm going to pop up the corner here I'm gonna be careful to do it in a spot where I'm not going to damage the seal or the surface and what it looks like in here basic cams look to be in pretty good shape so everything here so far looks really good there's no really nowhere on the cams basically these buckets below them are the lifters so I'm really really happy that I don't see any damage here on the cams or anywhere else in the top section of the head we still have to pull the heads off we have a lot more parts to inspect but so far so good like I said parts are very hard to find for these things and very expensive so the more that we can reuse from this engine the better I'm going to try to figure out where top dead center is on this engine which means the number one piston is all the way at the top of the bore so as high as it can possibly go and all of the valves on that cylinder are closed I don't know where the timing marks are on this engine I need to get that piston up to top dead center and then see if I can find any marks on the cams that say okay this is up for the intake cam on this bank this is up for the exhaust cam on this Bank sometimes there's marks on the chains marks on the cams super easy to put together sometimes there's nothing and you need special tools to do it it is a Ferrari so I know it won't be easy I was on Google looking for the firing order for the F12 engine here's a V12 chart for Ferrari v12s but what's new and what's old an F12 old or old as in 550 old right new Ferrari well the good thing is that the cylinders are numbered the same that's all that really matters right now so front of engine it says this is number one which I would not have guessed because this cylinder is further back so this is the very front cylinder it does say front of engine so yeah it has to be right I don't know if it has to be right but I hope it's right is this uh officially from Ferrari or is this just from some guy this is from a form all right let's go from Ferrari life forms well I'm looking here at Wikipedia and it says the f-140 engine which is this model of engine that also comes in the 599 and the FF it says the 65 degree hmm so that's cool okay V12 cylinder numbering and firing orders Ferrari numbers their engine in a u-shape starting with number one being the farthest forward cylinder so that would be this one but in the picture it was showing this one when you are at the rear of the motor facing the flywheel the cylinders are one through six on the right wait okay so this says this is one through six which that other picture said right but yeah this is not the farthest forward cylinder maybe as far as forwards from the back but that's the thing wait what new Ferrari 550 575 456. those are new Ferraris Mark something's wrong here getting the firing order and the cylinder correct is crucial if we don't know which cylinder cylinder number one is and we don't time the engine correctly when we put it back together that means valve to piston contact which means we will absolutely destroy this motor okay here I see some dots so there are some dots there that are going to line up so go a little bit more almost yes this one is about to open the intake valve so I think this is number one that would make sense that piston is all the way up and the head is also marked here it's got these numbers start over here yeah what's the last number one two three four five six for the cam caps and then that side 13 14 15 16 17 18 19. yeah and it goes up to 20 21 so it would make sense that this lower numbered head is number one I don't know why it shows number one being over there on the Ferrari forums guys what's up putting out bad information on the Ferrari life everyone else blows up their car it makes yours more rare that's right now I'm gonna pull the front cover off I just pulled the timing chain tensioners off of there they're out of the way but I need to get this off so I can pull this whole front cover off and basically expose the timing chains then I can remove the timing chains then I can remove the cams and then I'll be able to remove the head I did not want to come off well we can't use a breaker bar because we don't have anything to lock the engine down we don't have a flywheel so we can't hold the engine in place we don't have an air impact gun so we can't use that we need more tools anybody want to sponsor us tool shops guys let us know I think the only option we have at this point is to try to torch it heat it up a little bit that sometimes will loosen it up and allow us to get it off but I think our impact gun is just not strong enough and we don't have an air impact gun we don't have anything stronger so Tim grab the torch please thank you it's starting to round the edges off this sucks I really needed to get this engine apart today to figure out what was going on with it what parts we need what are the damage are we going to find inside of this engine without a bigger impact gun we are not going to be able to do that if I can't get that bolt off to get the pulley off I can't take the front cover off which means I can't get to these cam bolts which means I can't take the cams out I can't take the head off I can't get the oil pan off so we are absolutely stuck where we're at right now it's too late for me to go and buy one basically all the stores are closed that would have a high quality strong air impact gun so we'll just have to get it tomorrow and it's going to be pushed back another day we've only got 82 days left to get this thing all built completely done and together issues like this are not what we need all right so I went by my shop and I grabbed a proper impact gun and I also got a nitrogen bottle regulator and a hose our compressor only goes about 150 pounds of pressure that takes off most stubborn bolts but this thing felt really stuck on there so we're gonna need some more torque some more power to remove that and with the nitrogen bottle I can crank up the pressure to 300 pounds if I need to oh yeah so uh it should come off no problem I hope because we really need to get this thing apart we've got 81 days left time is ticking we need to get this part as quickly as possible oh I'm just going to 300. oh my goodness let's just get this thing apart there we go I got that off and uh lots of Loctite so that's basically why I was trying to heat the bolt up heating it up will loosen the Loctite up and it will come out but uh yeah couldn't get it hot enough now we got the bolt out but this pulley looks like it's pressed on oh yeah she's back don't have a puller here this is feels like aluminum fairly thin so I can't just put a pry bar on it I'd probably wreck it but since it's aluminum maybe I can heat this up the aluminum is going to expand faster than the steel crankshaft will and it might loosen it up enough to get it off so we got to try to do oh melting all right that works actually get this front cover off now now we've got the front cover off and we can see how the timing chains are run so there's a basically an idler pulley in the middle that both the cams are driven off of and then we've got the other drive that goes over here that's driving the water pump and the oil pump so that was the issue we had yesterday was trying to get that oil pump off should be easier now possibly or it might still come off with the oil pan once we loosen up these tensioners we'll be able to get the chain off maybe have to take this gear off of here but that's not a big deal I'm just going to look and see if I can find any other marks for the timing chain system so we got the cams put at basically their top Point top dead center check to see if I can find a mark on the crankshaft so this doesn't really matter can be turned anyway but the connection between this and the crankshaft basically faces the cams so that's got to be spot on I'm looking at all the timing chain stuff and I look down and basically this is the oil pan but look at this gray is a mixture of oil and maybe some metal something else it almost looks like engine assembly Lube so if we put an engine together and use like a Molly paste on all the bearings put everything together usually in the first oil change or if we pull the oil pan after that we'll see this but this engine has a lot of miles on it and that should have been completely washed out with all the oil changes so it's probably some metal wear looks very abnormal a lot to dig in more and see what else we find things were going well this morning I got the impact gun from my shop we got that nut off of the pulley we got the pulley off by heating it up we got the front cover off we're checking the timing we found that oil that weird almost metallic looking stuff in the oil but we're running into more issues there are more special tools that we don't have here it is a very thin wall 10 millimeter socket is what it looks like that goes inside to grab a nut and that's basically not allowing us to pull off the timing chain tensioner so we're going to have to modify a socket and try to get it to fit in there and hopefully we can get this thing apart as quickly as possible won't fit in there so that's a super thin wall socket you're gonna have to modify the socket so I got a little makeshift lathe over here right now we're about 14 and a half millimeters on the outside we need to be 13.2 millimeters to get it to fit into that spot still got quite a bit more to go all right it's on there is she coming it worked I think it's working absolutely destroyed the socket but it's okay all right so I was hoping to be able to get the cams off so I need to take the chain off without taking these off but this is one piece and it won't come off because of the timing chain guides and this uh the chain and everything so I'm gonna have to pull these off they should just impact off this should be a normal thread they shouldn't be reverse so hopefully it'll work out these look a lot like BMW parts Germany so the Vanos system in the BMW which is basically controlling the camshafts it looks super similar to this and these are made in Germany and so are the BMW parts so probably the exact same design slightly modified for Ferrari's needs I'm sure oh this one has a little shim does that one have a shim on it also no it doesn't look like it oh maybe it does have a shim it just can come off yeah oh it's like a paper thin washer I don't want to damage it but that's uh it's an important part there I'm sure I wonder if it adds friction so these are a friction seal they don't have a Groove they don't have a dowel pin or a key or anything they get timed and tightened down and it's just basically the pressure of the bolt holding it on there that keeps it locked into the cam so that could just be something that adds a little bit of friction maybe a little bit of Squish to get it tightened down timing chains are off at this point we can take the cams out we can pull the heads off and we can leave this bit for later once we pull the oil pan off that might make it a lot easier to get this chain off that was actually fairly easy got that out of the way I'll pull these off oh there's part of a bearing awesome yeah it's got multiple bearings in here all right so the cams are almost ready to come out but you have to be really careful when taking your cams out because we don't have the factory tool which I'm guessing there's a factory tool A lot of times there's some bar that goes across and holds the cams down all of those Springs are pushing up on the lobes that are pointing down so there's a lot of tension and if you start pulling caps off from one end you can damage the head you can damage the Caps basically the bearing surfaces where the camshaft rides or you could even crack the camshaft some camshafts are cast and they'll just snap these don't look like that would happen to them but we could damage the caps and the head so we've got to be real careful basically loosen all these bolts up slowly back and forth and let the cam come up nice and even so we've got a roller lifter here basically that drives off of this lobe on the camshaft so it's like a triangle here and that drives the high pressure fuel pump so as the cam is turning this is moving up and basically pumping on that high pressure fuel pump and increasing the pressure super high so it's a it's a simple concept that works really well to get 3000 psi or something of fuel pressure cam number one is out it's a really really nice piece it looks like it is a machined tube and then they slide and basically press the cam lobes on into the right positions not sure if it's actually like a friction welded thing or if it's just pushed on into place so we got the all the cam caps off the cams are out we were able to loosen all of the bolts holding the head down onto the studs those all came out no problem and we are ready to remove the head ready it's gonna be pretty tight on the studs I think you're a little put your side down a little bit now come up let's flip it upside down all right so just looking to see if there is any damage that's visual in here I mean there's a lot of lead build up which that's pretty normal running leaded fuel I don't see any marks I don't see any gouges in this head so that's all really good so far this looks very normal I don't see any issues here so that's good let's look at the Block cylinders a little bit darker than the rest but no big deal right yeah I mean so that's why I want to look at the cylinders because this could just be burning more oil in that cylinder but it could also be because the exhaust was so unequal length oh yeah there's more back pressure in some cylinders more like exhaust feeding back in that makes sense you know some weird marks on how that pistol enough but maybe some detonations possibly some there's definitely some wear in the cylinders I don't see anything that's like terrible so far and you can see the Pistons are rocking around a lot the Mark here is smooth and then up here it gets raised up so the Pistons are basically rocking in the bore all right let's pull the head gasket off it is cast or some sort of iron cylinder liners that is very good news because that means that we can machine this hopefully they're thick enough to just take off a little bit of material and get the cylinders round again A lot of times the cylinders will start to warp and turn oval and it won't seal up also the surface when we put new parts in here it's going to have to be scuffed up properly by a machine shop so that the Rings will wear in properly but overall everything looks okay here we still have a lot of parts to remove though so let's pull the other head off so it looks a little bit weird over here I think might have some problem with this valve ceiling it uh it looks a bit odd and it looks different than all the other cylinders the media has some scoring in this cylinder probably from that debris that we found inside of the intake manifold just the little pieces of metal that were falling in over time and uh getting in between the piston and the cylinder and just scratching everything so I'm sure when we pull the Pistons out we'll find more scratches on the skirts on the side possibly some damaged rings as well there is some wear there's some scoring on the cylinders I'm sure we'll find more damage on the sides of the Pistons overall not terrible we're definitely going to need new Pistons 100 we're not going to run these again let's flip it over let's pull the oil pan off and see what else we find yep there we go we're getting a stud uh yes yeah you got to take that pole out yeah and we've got to hang on to the engine while we turn it so basically the stud is hitting so we'll have to slide it out and hopefully this thing won't fall off the engine stand okay I think that's enough is that enough that looks like enough all right so hang on to it because it's going to want to just like flip upside down yep foreign all right I think we got all of the bolts off of the oil pan and should be ready to take this thing off I'm gonna hit it with the Mallet a bit because it's glued on all right we're finally we're just gonna pull the oil pan off and see what's going on inside of the engine this is uh something I've been waiting for for quite a while since we found those metal shavings in the oil and well let's get it open Tim let's see what's going on here start all right let's flip it over quickly because I think there's bearing shells in here yeah oh yeah that's not looking good oh look at that wear and it's uh kind of all of them yeah more so in the back then in the front but those are the main bearings so that's the the bearings that the crankshaft is riding in usually if the main bearings look damaged the rod bearings look worse the mains the crank just spins around in circles where the rod bearings are getting articulated there's a lot more load the bearings are smaller see what we're going to find in here I don't see any rods that are discolored basically a different color starting to turn blue or gray dark gray basically means they're getting really hot I don't see that but we could still have some spun bearings we will start pulling off the rod caps and pop each piston out of the cylinder and then we'll inspect everything now I'll pull the bolts out but before I pull them out completely I'll pull them out a little bit tap on them with a hammer and that's going to release the cap for from the rod so there's some dowels that are holding it all together they fit really tight so giving it that little tap will help open it up and also make sure there's enough threads on those bolts so I don't strip or damage it yep that's what I figured those bearings are not looking great now let's get the rest of them out and check them out yeah it was pretty short yeah very short rods fairly short skirts as well it looks like it was mostly just wearing the top of the Piston as it was rocking and uh I mean there's some material missing from the coating that's on the skirts so it was putting some pressure on there but not terrible but the bearings the bearings don't look good so it's a good thing that we are pulling this thing apart for a rebuild because I don't know how much longer these would have lasted before they spun when you spin a bearing you get all this material and you see this these gouges in here those are low spots so something went through there and scraped it but when you have that low spot it creates a low spot here but it pushes up on the outside and creates a high spot now there's not proper oil clearance and that will start to spin a bearing basically the oil won't be flowing there won't be a layer of oil in between the crank and the bearing so you'll get metal to metal contact and once a bearing starts to spin it goes really quick this bearing came out of the rod easily it fell out and that usually means that the bearing is starting to shrink up from this wear in here and getting hot and it'll start to basically tighten around the crankshaft and loosen around the rod so that's a sign that these are going out they're on their way out and it wouldn't have lasted much longer yeah everything similar damage on that one so those little spots if you can see those that's debris that have gotten basically pushed into the bearing so there's multiple layers on the bearing it's a steel shell and then I believe it's like a copper and then a the bearing material which is like a I think it's called a Babbitt which is a softer material and that those little specks of dirt in there have gotten embedded and created high spots finally got all the Pistons out looking at the bearings there were a few of them that did not look great I don't know how much longer the engine would have lasted it was definitely going to blow up at some point in the near future and if that bearing went and the car kept being driven basically if you don't hear that knocking noise and you keep driving it there's a very good chance that the rod will break or the bolts will snap which sends the Piston flying towards the head and then the rod will actually get shot sideways out of the side of the block making everything unusable I'm glad that we got this thing apart finally we start moving forward sourcing pistons and rods custom parts are going to take some time we also need some Factory parts we need a bunch of gaskets we need the bearings we have it apart now we can start going moving forward finding these parts finding the solutions oh it's it's expensive and it's a long process that absolutely has to be done correctly for this thing to run the way we want it to run and make the power that we wanted to make car maybe you know to get this whole car done it's it's going to take a lot of money for sure this thing is well you know what there's always uh an upside and that's what I want to look towards you know the Silver Lining is we can build the perfect engine for this build now instead of just cutting some Corners keeping it the way it was now we can truly build it the way we want it to be built yeah so the motors at math 12 is done hey Scott it's salvageable from the stuff we need the block and stuff but it's gonna cost a bunch of money that we have to find was added to our PCA a lot hi guys all right well that actually went better than I expected I was I was expecting like what it's gonna cost how much but I think you know they're being realistic we've had these talks already on how much things are going to cost I don't know honestly the rods are going to be the biggest issue because if they don't have a casting that's very very close to the right length and the right width they have to make a new casting to build these rods which just adds tons of time and tons of expense to basically create new tooling to create new rods that they have never done before that's where it gets really expensive the Pistons you can usually find a blank and that's just a poured molded forged piston and then they machine it down to the correct specs but the rods are going to be the real issue and that's going to add quite a bit of time and cost to this rightI need to have this B12 Ferrari engine completely torn down by the end of the day I need to see what's going on inside of this engine so we can start the process of ordering parts getting custom things made we only have 82 days before this engine needs to be in this car completely done running shredding tires at the SEMA show that is a huge undertaking in a very short amount of time we need to get going on it right away so the first step is to get this engine onto an engine stand if you remember we tried to save some money and buy the cheapest engine stand at Harbor Freight that was a terrible idea and a complete waste of money because there's no way that that's going to work then we bought the best engine stand that they had that didn't work either it was teeter-tottering on that stand I need to make a custom adapter that's going to bolt onto the back of this engine and bolt onto that engine stand that's going to hold it securely so I'm going to get started on that right away first step is to measure the studs that are coming off the back of the engine get on the computer and draw them up in CAD and then create the sketch outline of what the Plate's going to look like I've got the part all designed I'm going to send this file over to the plasma table and then we'll be able to cut it out I got the part design file and the jacaran plasma table we got a piece of 316 Steel in there and we're going to cut it out so we should be good to go foreign nice clean cut it's gonna sandwich this plate in between the engine and the engine stand so I'm gonna make sure this fits if it looks good then I'm going to cut another one out so I can sandwich two of them together and give it a little more stiffness yeah overall looks good make sure these will fit here those look good all right put another one out we'll get this thing bolted together all right so we got our plates cut out so we've got two of them stacked together and bolt this thing up get it onto the engine stand and hopefully it will be nice and solid and we can start tearing this thing apart all right we're going to take the engine over to two post lift use some ratchet straps strap it on try to lift it up and hopefully all will go our way we are clear it looks pretty stable we've got the two plates that we made sandwiched together see if it works it is top heavy for sure right now with the heads on gonna go down see if it works it's still a bit sketchy but I think we're just gonna roll with it I'm not really excited about it it's three Wheeling well that just means that we need to get the heads off as quickly as possible this F12 build is absolutely insane Roundup build there's so much left to do on this car but sometimes I just need to take a break I take my mind off of things that's why I'm happy to say that today's sponsor is my Konami slot machine Tim faster my chair please sometimes it's good to just get off your feet for a minute and uh play some slots join millions of slot players and win big at my Konami slots the official Konami Casino anytime you feel the need for a little Casino fun or a quick win my Konami features some of your favorite slot machines straight off the casino floor jump in jalapenos China mystery Lotus land lion Festival star watch magma and many more come on play top Social Casino games at my economy slots play free games earn points level up get rewards food and drinks rides and attractions Cruise vacations and more one two three spin foreign this free social casino game is constantly getting new slot machines which means that you can continually find new favorites play free now and get 2 million free chips welcome bonus and a 10 million special bonus exclusively from the link in the description or by scanning the QR code line is not coming off and I'm worried about shaking the engine around it's like very very sketchy on the stand I'm trying to figure out how this comes apart we've got a water pump but also drives the oil pump since there's a snap ring here I'm thinking maybe I need to put the snap ring off and slide this back and it'll pop out and there's this other connection here basically the oil Outlet I think I might need to add a bracket on I took that off I need to slide this down and that will let me take the oil pump off but that's just a guess I don't really know how this comes apart so try to not mess it up but get it off quickly foreign pump is fighting me a bit I mean so far it's been a bit of a struggle like every piece of Hardware is a different size they're using five millimeter six millimeter 12 millimeter bolts in between it's just a lot of stuff going on here it's kind of a weird design trying to get this thing apart as quickly as possible but also not damage anything in the process because like I said it's really hard to get parts for this thing well I think I'm just going to leave this thing for now because it doesn't seem like it wants to come out it's got a uh a long shaft that's driven off of here that drives the oil pump and we got it slid back a bunch but it's still engaged oil filter housing in the way so I can't slide it back anymore maybe when I pull the oil pan on it'll all come out together and maybe that's the way it's supposed to go I'm gonna move on to something else valve covers should be ready to come off they're a little bit sticky so I'm going to pop up the corner here I'm gonna be careful to do it in a spot where I'm not going to damage the seal or the surface and what it looks like in here basic cams look to be in pretty good shape so everything here so far looks really good there's no really nowhere on the cams basically these buckets below them are the lifters so I'm really really happy that I don't see any damage here on the cams or anywhere else in the top section of the head we still have to pull the heads off we have a lot more parts to inspect but so far so good like I said parts are very hard to find for these things and very expensive so the more that we can reuse from this engine the better I'm going to try to figure out where top dead center is on this engine which means the number one piston is all the way at the top of the bore so as high as it can possibly go and all of the valves on that cylinder are closed I don't know where the timing marks are on this engine I need to get that piston up to top dead center and then see if I can find any marks on the cams that say okay this is up for the intake cam on this bank this is up for the exhaust cam on this Bank sometimes there's marks on the chains marks on the cams super easy to put together sometimes there's nothing and you need special tools to do it it is a Ferrari so I know it won't be easy I was on Google looking for the firing order for the F12 engine here's a V12 chart for Ferrari v12s but what's new and what's old an F12 old or old as in 550 old right new Ferrari well the good thing is that the cylinders are numbered the same that's all that really matters right now so front of engine it says this is number one which I would not have guessed because this cylinder is further back so this is the very front cylinder it does say front of engine so yeah it has to be right I don't know if it has to be right but I hope it's right is this uh officially from Ferrari or is this just from some guy this is from a form all right let's go from Ferrari life forms well I'm looking here at Wikipedia and it says the f-140 engine which is this model of engine that also comes in the 599 and the FF it says the 65 degree hmm so that's cool okay V12 cylinder numbering and firing orders Ferrari numbers their engine in a u-shape starting with number one being the farthest forward cylinder so that would be this one but in the picture it was showing this one when you are at the rear of the motor facing the flywheel the cylinders are one through six on the right wait okay so this says this is one through six which that other picture said right but yeah this is not the farthest forward cylinder maybe as far as forwards from the back but that's the thing wait what new Ferrari 550 575 456. those are new Ferraris Mark something's wrong here getting the firing order and the cylinder correct is crucial if we don't know which cylinder cylinder number one is and we don't time the engine correctly when we put it back together that means valve to piston contact which means we will absolutely destroy this motor okay here I see some dots so there are some dots there that are going to line up so go a little bit more almost yes this one is about to open the intake valve so I think this is number one that would make sense that piston is all the way up and the head is also marked here it's got these numbers start over here yeah what's the last number one two three four five six for the cam caps and then that side 13 14 15 16 17 18 19. yeah and it goes up to 20 21 so it would make sense that this lower numbered head is number one I don't know why it shows number one being over there on the Ferrari forums guys what's up putting out bad information on the Ferrari life everyone else blows up their car it makes yours more rare that's right now I'm gonna pull the front cover off I just pulled the timing chain tensioners off of there they're out of the way but I need to get this off so I can pull this whole front cover off and basically expose the timing chains then I can remove the timing chains then I can remove the cams and then I'll be able to remove the head I did not want to come off well we can't use a breaker bar because we don't have anything to lock the engine down we don't have a flywheel so we can't hold the engine in place we don't have an air impact gun so we can't use that we need more tools anybody want to sponsor us tool shops guys let us know I think the only option we have at this point is to try to torch it heat it up a little bit that sometimes will loosen it up and allow us to get it off but I think our impact gun is just not strong enough and we don't have an air impact gun we don't have anything stronger so Tim grab the torch please thank you it's starting to round the edges off this sucks I really needed to get this engine apart today to figure out what was going on with it what parts we need what are the damage are we going to find inside of this engine without a bigger impact gun we are not going to be able to do that if I can't get that bolt off to get the pulley off I can't take the front cover off which means I can't get to these cam bolts which means I can't take the cams out I can't take the head off I can't get the oil pan off so we are absolutely stuck where we're at right now it's too late for me to go and buy one basically all the stores are closed that would have a high quality strong air impact gun so we'll just have to get it tomorrow and it's going to be pushed back another day we've only got 82 days left to get this thing all built completely done and together issues like this are not what we need all right so I went by my shop and I grabbed a proper impact gun and I also got a nitrogen bottle regulator and a hose our compressor only goes about 150 pounds of pressure that takes off most stubborn bolts but this thing felt really stuck on there so we're gonna need some more torque some more power to remove that and with the nitrogen bottle I can crank up the pressure to 300 pounds if I need to oh yeah so uh it should come off no problem I hope because we really need to get this thing apart we've got 81 days left time is ticking we need to get this part as quickly as possible oh I'm just going to 300. oh my goodness let's just get this thing apart there we go I got that off and uh lots of Loctite so that's basically why I was trying to heat the bolt up heating it up will loosen the Loctite up and it will come out but uh yeah couldn't get it hot enough now we got the bolt out but this pulley looks like it's pressed on oh yeah she's back don't have a puller here this is feels like aluminum fairly thin so I can't just put a pry bar on it I'd probably wreck it but since it's aluminum maybe I can heat this up the aluminum is going to expand faster than the steel crankshaft will and it might loosen it up enough to get it off so we got to try to do oh melting all right that works actually get this front cover off now now we've got the front cover off and we can see how the timing chains are run so there's a basically an idler pulley in the middle that both the cams are driven off of and then we've got the other drive that goes over here that's driving the water pump and the oil pump so that was the issue we had yesterday was trying to get that oil pump off should be easier now possibly or it might still come off with the oil pan once we loosen up these tensioners we'll be able to get the chain off maybe have to take this gear off of here but that's not a big deal I'm just going to look and see if I can find any other marks for the timing chain system so we got the cams put at basically their top Point top dead center check to see if I can find a mark on the crankshaft so this doesn't really matter can be turned anyway but the connection between this and the crankshaft basically faces the cams so that's got to be spot on I'm looking at all the timing chain stuff and I look down and basically this is the oil pan but look at this gray is a mixture of oil and maybe some metal something else it almost looks like engine assembly Lube so if we put an engine together and use like a Molly paste on all the bearings put everything together usually in the first oil change or if we pull the oil pan after that we'll see this but this engine has a lot of miles on it and that should have been completely washed out with all the oil changes so it's probably some metal wear looks very abnormal a lot to dig in more and see what else we find things were going well this morning I got the impact gun from my shop we got that nut off of the pulley we got the pulley off by heating it up we got the front cover off we're checking the timing we found that oil that weird almost metallic looking stuff in the oil but we're running into more issues there are more special tools that we don't have here it is a very thin wall 10 millimeter socket is what it looks like that goes inside to grab a nut and that's basically not allowing us to pull off the timing chain tensioner so we're going to have to modify a socket and try to get it to fit in there and hopefully we can get this thing apart as quickly as possible won't fit in there so that's a super thin wall socket you're gonna have to modify the socket so I got a little makeshift lathe over here right now we're about 14 and a half millimeters on the outside we need to be 13.2 millimeters to get it to fit into that spot still got quite a bit more to go all right it's on there is she coming it worked I think it's working absolutely destroyed the socket but it's okay all right so I was hoping to be able to get the cams off so I need to take the chain off without taking these off but this is one piece and it won't come off because of the timing chain guides and this uh the chain and everything so I'm gonna have to pull these off they should just impact off this should be a normal thread they shouldn't be reverse so hopefully it'll work out these look a lot like BMW parts Germany so the Vanos system in the BMW which is basically controlling the camshafts it looks super similar to this and these are made in Germany and so are the BMW parts so probably the exact same design slightly modified for Ferrari's needs I'm sure oh this one has a little shim does that one have a shim on it also no it doesn't look like it oh maybe it does have a shim it just can come off yeah oh it's like a paper thin washer I don't want to damage it but that's uh it's an important part there I'm sure I wonder if it adds friction so these are a friction seal they don't have a Groove they don't have a dowel pin or a key or anything they get timed and tightened down and it's just basically the pressure of the bolt holding it on there that keeps it locked into the cam so that could just be something that adds a little bit of friction maybe a little bit of Squish to get it tightened down timing chains are off at this point we can take the cams out we can pull the heads off and we can leave this bit for later once we pull the oil pan off that might make it a lot easier to get this chain off that was actually fairly easy got that out of the way I'll pull these off oh there's part of a bearing awesome yeah it's got multiple bearings in here all right so the cams are almost ready to come out but you have to be really careful when taking your cams out because we don't have the factory tool which I'm guessing there's a factory tool A lot of times there's some bar that goes across and holds the cams down all of those Springs are pushing up on the lobes that are pointing down so there's a lot of tension and if you start pulling caps off from one end you can damage the head you can damage the Caps basically the bearing surfaces where the camshaft rides or you could even crack the camshaft some camshafts are cast and they'll just snap these don't look like that would happen to them but we could damage the caps and the head so we've got to be real careful basically loosen all these bolts up slowly back and forth and let the cam come up nice and even so we've got a roller lifter here basically that drives off of this lobe on the camshaft so it's like a triangle here and that drives the high pressure fuel pump so as the cam is turning this is moving up and basically pumping on that high pressure fuel pump and increasing the pressure super high so it's a it's a simple concept that works really well to get 3000 psi or something of fuel pressure cam number one is out it's a really really nice piece it looks like it is a machined tube and then they slide and basically press the cam lobes on into the right positions not sure if it's actually like a friction welded thing or if it's just pushed on into place so we got the all the cam caps off the cams are out we were able to loosen all of the bolts holding the head down onto the studs those all came out no problem and we are ready to remove the head ready it's gonna be pretty tight on the studs I think you're a little put your side down a little bit now come up let's flip it upside down all right so just looking to see if there is any damage that's visual in here I mean there's a lot of lead build up which that's pretty normal running leaded fuel I don't see any marks I don't see any gouges in this head so that's all really good so far this looks very normal I don't see any issues here so that's good let's look at the Block cylinders a little bit darker than the rest but no big deal right yeah I mean so that's why I want to look at the cylinders because this could just be burning more oil in that cylinder but it could also be because the exhaust was so unequal length oh yeah there's more back pressure in some cylinders more like exhaust feeding back in that makes sense you know some weird marks on how that pistol enough but maybe some detonations possibly some there's definitely some wear in the cylinders I don't see anything that's like terrible so far and you can see the Pistons are rocking around a lot the Mark here is smooth and then up here it gets raised up so the Pistons are basically rocking in the bore all right let's pull the head gasket off it is cast or some sort of iron cylinder liners that is very good news because that means that we can machine this hopefully they're thick enough to just take off a little bit of material and get the cylinders round again A lot of times the cylinders will start to warp and turn oval and it won't seal up also the surface when we put new parts in here it's going to have to be scuffed up properly by a machine shop so that the Rings will wear in properly but overall everything looks okay here we still have a lot of parts to remove though so let's pull the other head off so it looks a little bit weird over here I think might have some problem with this valve ceiling it uh it looks a bit odd and it looks different than all the other cylinders the media has some scoring in this cylinder probably from that debris that we found inside of the intake manifold just the little pieces of metal that were falling in over time and uh getting in between the piston and the cylinder and just scratching everything so I'm sure when we pull the Pistons out we'll find more scratches on the skirts on the side possibly some damaged rings as well there is some wear there's some scoring on the cylinders I'm sure we'll find more damage on the sides of the Pistons overall not terrible we're definitely going to need new Pistons 100 we're not going to run these again let's flip it over let's pull the oil pan off and see what else we find yep there we go we're getting a stud uh yes yeah you got to take that pole out yeah and we've got to hang on to the engine while we turn it so basically the stud is hitting so we'll have to slide it out and hopefully this thing won't fall off the engine stand okay I think that's enough is that enough that looks like enough all right so hang on to it because it's going to want to just like flip upside down yep foreign all right I think we got all of the bolts off of the oil pan and should be ready to take this thing off I'm gonna hit it with the Mallet a bit because it's glued on all right we're finally we're just gonna pull the oil pan off and see what's going on inside of the engine this is uh something I've been waiting for for quite a while since we found those metal shavings in the oil and well let's get it open Tim let's see what's going on here start all right let's flip it over quickly because I think there's bearing shells in here yeah oh yeah that's not looking good oh look at that wear and it's uh kind of all of them yeah more so in the back then in the front but those are the main bearings so that's the the bearings that the crankshaft is riding in usually if the main bearings look damaged the rod bearings look worse the mains the crank just spins around in circles where the rod bearings are getting articulated there's a lot more load the bearings are smaller see what we're going to find in here I don't see any rods that are discolored basically a different color starting to turn blue or gray dark gray basically means they're getting really hot I don't see that but we could still have some spun bearings we will start pulling off the rod caps and pop each piston out of the cylinder and then we'll inspect everything now I'll pull the bolts out but before I pull them out completely I'll pull them out a little bit tap on them with a hammer and that's going to release the cap for from the rod so there's some dowels that are holding it all together they fit really tight so giving it that little tap will help open it up and also make sure there's enough threads on those bolts so I don't strip or damage it yep that's what I figured those bearings are not looking great now let's get the rest of them out and check them out yeah it was pretty short yeah very short rods fairly short skirts as well it looks like it was mostly just wearing the top of the Piston as it was rocking and uh I mean there's some material missing from the coating that's on the skirts so it was putting some pressure on there but not terrible but the bearings the bearings don't look good so it's a good thing that we are pulling this thing apart for a rebuild because I don't know how much longer these would have lasted before they spun when you spin a bearing you get all this material and you see this these gouges in here those are low spots so something went through there and scraped it but when you have that low spot it creates a low spot here but it pushes up on the outside and creates a high spot now there's not proper oil clearance and that will start to spin a bearing basically the oil won't be flowing there won't be a layer of oil in between the crank and the bearing so you'll get metal to metal contact and once a bearing starts to spin it goes really quick this bearing came out of the rod easily it fell out and that usually means that the bearing is starting to shrink up from this wear in here and getting hot and it'll start to basically tighten around the crankshaft and loosen around the rod so that's a sign that these are going out they're on their way out and it wouldn't have lasted much longer yeah everything similar damage on that one so those little spots if you can see those that's debris that have gotten basically pushed into the bearing so there's multiple layers on the bearing it's a steel shell and then I believe it's like a copper and then a the bearing material which is like a I think it's called a Babbitt which is a softer material and that those little specks of dirt in there have gotten embedded and created high spots finally got all the Pistons out looking at the bearings there were a few of them that did not look great I don't know how much longer the engine would have lasted it was definitely going to blow up at some point in the near future and if that bearing went and the car kept being driven basically if you don't hear that knocking noise and you keep driving it there's a very good chance that the rod will break or the bolts will snap which sends the Piston flying towards the head and then the rod will actually get shot sideways out of the side of the block making everything unusable I'm glad that we got this thing apart finally we start moving forward sourcing pistons and rods custom parts are going to take some time we also need some Factory parts we need a bunch of gaskets we need the bearings we have it apart now we can start going moving forward finding these parts finding the solutions oh it's it's expensive and it's a long process that absolutely has to be done correctly for this thing to run the way we want it to run and make the power that we wanted to make car maybe you know to get this whole car done it's it's going to take a lot of money for sure this thing is well you know what there's always uh an upside and that's what I want to look towards you know the Silver Lining is we can build the perfect engine for this build now instead of just cutting some Corners keeping it the way it was now we can truly build it the way we want it to be built yeah so the motors at math 12 is done hey Scott it's salvageable from the stuff we need the block and stuff but it's gonna cost a bunch of money that we have to find was added to our PCA a lot hi guys all right well that actually went better than I expected I was I was expecting like what it's gonna cost how much but I think you know they're being realistic we've had these talks already on how much things are going to cost I don't know honestly the rods are going to be the biggest issue because if they don't have a casting that's very very close to the right length and the right width they have to make a new casting to build these rods which just adds tons of time and tons of expense to basically create new tooling to create new rods that they have never done before that's where it gets really expensive the Pistons you can usually find a blank and that's just a poured molded forged piston and then they machine it down to the correct specs but the rods are going to be the real issue and that's going to add quite a bit of time and cost to this right\n"